Forums: Community: Campground: Re: [edge] Sty's Post Count Increaser : Edit Log


May 20, 2013, 8:32 PM

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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120

Re: [edge] Sty's Post Count Increaser
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edge wrote:
Hit up Longstack tonight and scrubbed an amazing new line. It's going to get 3-4 bolts next week, but it's got three distinct cruxes from .10a - .10b/c and climbs incredibly fun. One more cleaning needed, probably Thursday. I'm thinking of calling it "Edge's Swan Song".

Returned for a final scrub on the new line and some TR burns to mark the bolt locations. We got out there at 4pm, and I am already trashed from all the heavy lifting and packing of the weekend, plus my shins are still all scabby from the initial cleaning. We dropped two lines and selectively pruned, de-lichened, and made the whole rig shine like a diamond.

I took one run on TR, fell on the second crux once trying different beta, and fell 3X on the final crux which was previously unsent. Finally figured out some beta that worked and made the moves which may only be .10b/c when I am fresh, but could very easily be .11-; hell it may even be solid .11. Hard to grade right now but I'm feeling confident that if I can get the borrowed drill tomorrow, place the four bolts in the predicted rain, and get a weather window before Friday then I should be able to lead it.

I am willing to delay our departure by a day for this if necessary; a fact which the wife knows Sargeant Schultz about.

Joshua on the second crux bulge:

We ended the evening with a run up a favorite 5.5 at dusk:

(This post was edited by edge on May 20, 2013, 9:13 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by edge () on May 20, 2013, 9:10 PM
Post edited by edge () on May 20, 2013, 9:11 PM
Post edited by edge () on May 20, 2013, 9:13 PM

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