Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [olderic] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners?: Edit Log


May 21, 2013, 2:16 PM

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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
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Re: [olderic] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners?
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You can bail from the hanger itself provided you have the following: a good sewn sling, 2/3 of the rope still on the ground, the ability (holds) to clip in directly to the hanger, an ATC.

1.) Clip directly from your harness to the hanger.
1a.) Belayer gives slack.
2. Unclip the now unweighted quickdraw from the hanger.
3.) Use a 24" sewn sling, lace it through the hanger giving you a loop on each side.
4.) Untie. (don't drop the rope)
5.) Lace the rope through the sewn runner (in this example let's say left to right).
6.) Ensure that that end is on the ground. Now there is one end on the ground exiting the RIGHT side of the sewn sling.
7.) Pull up the other end of the rope (LEFT side).
8.) Tie that side (LEFT) to the LEFT side of the sewn runner.

Here's what you'll have.
-You clipped directly to the hanger via quickdraw chain or daisy or something suitably safe.
-From the Left lobe, the end of your lead line will be tied to the left loop then you should have a bite that goes ALL THE WAY TO THE ground and back up THROUGH the loop and back ALL THE WAY TO THE ground on the OTHER SIDE.

9. Like a normal rappel insert the rope through your ATC and rap to the ground. Do NOT use the end that is TIED to the sling. If you avoid this you'll avoid a potential catastrophic failure of the system.
10. Rap to the ground.

1. Pull on the bite to pull up the free end of the rope. It will slide through the sling and back to you.
2. Pull the single strand and the rope, knot and sling will come back down to you.

OK that's a lot to take in and you sound like a novice. This is a good skill to have but I do not use it routinely as it is unsafe in general. Practice down low. Be safe and don't get in over your head.

Buy a "self rescue" book and read it. The mountaineers make a good one.

(This post was edited by doktor_g on May 21, 2013, 2:18 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by doktor_g () on May 21, 2013, 2:18 PM

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