Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [jagster] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing: Edit Log


Jun 15, 2013, 11:52 AM

Views: 28639

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [jagster] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

jagster wrote:
So I was looking on supertopo's forum the other day and saw a question about abseiling past the anchor point whilst carrying your pig and having no partner to help you out, what do you do? im sure loads of people will say just don't do it and be all smart about it!! But I thought id show you what id do and see what people thought?

Lets assume your soloing and have decided to retreat. Your abseiling down 2 ropes tied together through a sling, I know! I know! you shouldn't! but we are. Now one chap said to climb the rope like a tree surgeon, not gona go into this, but that is way wrong, you'll cut the the sling/rope in no time. Another chap said to hang your pig where your at, then climb the rope, then come back down for it, seems ok???. Im not able to upload my photo for some reason!!!

ohhh well

1- third hand stops you.
2- place 2 ascenders on the ropes above with a karabiner connecting them together
3- place a petzl traxion and a gri gri on the pig/you
4-have the ropes come through the ascenders and down to the traxion and gri gri.
5- place a pully and spare karabiner on the karabiner that is at the bottom of the ascenders.
6- send the rope coming from the gri gri up through the pully and back to you
7- send the rope from the traxion up through the spare karabiner and back to you

You now have a far end haul system on two ropes. climb back to the anchor point and start abseiling again.

The above in bold seems doable. After hanging the pig you could use 2 prusic loops, each around both lines, to ascend back up. Ropes couldn't saw back and forth that way.

Edit: I'll ask anyway, why not a biner instead of a sling to retreat from?

(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jun 15, 2013, 12:08 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by moose_droppings () on Jun 15, 2013, 12:08 PM

Search for (options)

Log In:

Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?