Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [xtrmecat] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing: Edit Log


Jul 9, 2013, 9:22 AM

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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Re: [xtrmecat] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing
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xtrmecat wrote:
Ahemm. Have any of the posters ever done a piggy rap?

One rope?? OMG. Shut the fuck up will you. If you are rapping the route, or just the normal descent, it makes no sense to complicate anything and just go with the normal procedures.. Rapping with a pig is no big deal, just ride the sucker till you discover your oops.

Tie a backup to the piggies rap device, (You were riding the pig, right?) Get you ascenders off your harness and ascend to the anchors. Anchor yourself and set up your haul. Anchor your piggie, and get back on board.

Pull ropes from last station, get back on rappel, and rinse and repeat till you are on the deck.

Why in the world would someone have a sixty meter rap, using two ropes, and only use one and a grigri?
Big wall theory? Just go with standard operating procedures. If there is a shortcut, please oh please let it come from someone with some wall mileage, not from theory on the intardnet.

Burly Bob
I'm a complete BWT (Big wall Theorist), so can you answer a couple questions:

You're rapping a double rope (two strands). How can you use your ascenders to climb up a doubled rope? Do you just make sure you pick the correct strand and rely on the knot jamming in the anchor? Or are you relying on the weight of the pig to keep the ropes from pulling through the anchor?

If you tie back-ups on the rap device attached to the pig, the weight of the pig is left on the doubled up rope. When you get to the anchor and setup your haul, how do you get the loaded rope into a pulley if the bag is on the ropes (unless you use a z-cord or something similar)?

I can think of a couple of reasons to rap a single line, a fixed line being one of them. I have done very little aid climbing, but I have been a few pitches up and decided to bail to the ground to come back the next day. We fixed three ropes to the ground via a couple rap anchors so we could reach the ground and then head back up the single line(s) the next day. We did take our bags with us, so we ended up rapping on a single line on a Grigri with a haul bag. Of course, in our case it was easy to send the first person down without the bag and make sure it ended at the next rap...but what if you were soloing?

(This post was edited by csproul on Jul 9, 2013, 9:50 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by csproul () on Jul 9, 2013, 9:24 AM
Post edited by csproul () on Jul 9, 2013, 9:50 AM

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