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Re: [marc801] training for ten second of your life :
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jacques
Jun 8, 2015, 7:47 PM
Views: 16024
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
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marc801 wrote: You realize that the Gunks was one of the places where sport slings - quick draws - were invented and that it was common to carry 4-6 short slings. In the 60's, when many of the classic routes were put in, it was common practice to just clip two biners to a piton.
from two biner to a piton and clipping bolt...we are very close to sport climbing.
Because I learned in remote area in Quebec, I focus more in what I saw when I climbed, the challenge of the climb and safety. For me, climbing 5.11 was not fun because I didn't have the hand (carpal tunel) for it. I am very far from the fight between sport and trad to know who is the best climber (in the 70 I think)
I moved to the new generation where people choose to train for ten second of there life or to train to compete with the best climber. As you know, most piton, with the ice and 90 degree of the summer, are not so safe. We leave the piton in place but back them up if we are safe. This have nothing to do with who is going to climb 5.12 because a climber can died in a 5.7 moved... as the women did last year in a sport style and ethic.
I like to think that some days, people will make a distinction between sport and trad as strong as the distinction between alpine skying and cross country skying and that people will workout more there safety in trad and more there climbing movement in sport. That doesn't means that some one couldn't do both, but that people will know that if you want to climb in the gunks trad route...you most know better on safety than how do to the move... do the move and risk your life as the women did in a 5.7 to free the 5.11 route
(This post was edited by jacques on Jun 9, 2015, 6:41 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jacques
() on Jun 9, 2015, 6:40 AM
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Post edited by jacques
() on Jun 9, 2015, 6:41 AM
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