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dontfall
May 3, 2005, 12:06 AM
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In reply to: ....or a Climbing New York State thread, that could become a Sticky if it was used enough. I was just wondering what those of you who use the MASS/PA and NOVA Climbers Threads think about starting a thread more specific to the Gunks and or/Daks? When I realized I didn't know most of the people or places...I sort of forgot about the thread for the most part. Maybe I should have taken a better look at it to see if it is Gunks/Daks etc. related, but alas - work is tapping on my shoulder..... .
Your wish is my command. Enjoy!!!
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happiegrrrl
May 3, 2005, 12:57 AM
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Well, how about that!?
Now I guess I had better hope people have interest in the thing... How about starting things off with what we climbed last day out, or are looking forward to next time?
I went up to the Gunks with 2 others on Sunday - forecast was for 20% rain up until I went to bed at 1am, and when I woke up 3 hours later, it had risen to 50%!!!! Still, we headed up, and stuck it out through the 8am drizzle, to be rewarded with sunshine only a short while later.
Yes, things were wet in places, but there were also dry lines. One of my partners led up the first pitch of Fingerlocks or Ceder Box, and then the other seconded the pitch. They both lowered off and then I got to do a mock lead on it, while the previous scond got to practice lead belaying(I have only had one lead climb so far; a 5.5 but not Gunks 5.5....).
It took me f--o--r--e--v--e--r-------
Not to place gear, but because I was afraid(yes, afraid) of committing to a move. But rather than do it knowing I had a better chance of coming off than the rain forcast for the day, I didn't go until I was ready. And, I made it through(Yeah!). Then my partner seconded and critiqued the placements for me. Luckily, nothing was welded into place and i didn't owe for any stuck gear....
So then we took our time and headed toward the Nears, looking for things to do on our way. Alas, being limited due to wet conditions, most of the things that were within all our abilities were taken, and we found ourselves camping at Disneyland while another party got on their way.
This was my third time on Disneyland, and I have to say, it is really quite the enjoyable ride. Each time I have climbed it though without weighting the rope or falling, but getting into that notch has taken *style points* off my little self-imposed scorecard every time..... Question: Are the Beached Whale Mantle and/or the Technial Knee Smear considered aid climbing? hahaha. Next time I will get that move with dignity, I promise myself that. And then I can start worrying about the day I get to lead the thing!
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wormly81
May 3, 2005, 1:28 AM
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I just thought this would be a good time to let everyone know how much I love climbing in NY...
Moving back to the gunks on the 21st (but I'll be stopping by sooner)
Jeff
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grinspoon
May 3, 2005, 1:38 AM
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Has anybody been to Keene Valley yet this season?
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jakedatc
May 3, 2005, 1:45 AM
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Congrats on your thread :)
Fingerlocks is such a good climb.. nice gear all the way up
all mantel styles are acceptable..but as you said some are more graceful than others :)
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nedsurf
May 3, 2005, 4:49 AM
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Who can climb the gunks midweek. Thinking of the 9-11 this month. I might have another for climbing already but the more the merrier at the multi-use camp. I drive up from Washington DC if anyone needs a ride there from southern parts. I can alawys use a little help with gas these days, and road company is good to make the miles pass.
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taino
May 3, 2005, 2:45 PM
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Indeed it was a fun day; very glad we stuck it out, although it was a near thing. Good job lead-belaying - I felt very comfortable, and never once thought that you weren't attentive.
Also, good job on the mock-lead of Fingerlocks; don't worry about your taking a long time on the lead - it's good that you took your time, so that you could calm yourself down.
I must admit that you've certainly come a long way from the person who dropped me, that first time we climbed. :wink:
To keep in line with this thread...
This weekend is already full - class on Saturday, climbing with Adam and Niru on Sunday. Hope everyone gets outside, in some way.
T
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mistertyler
May 3, 2005, 2:54 PM
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Can't wait to climb this weekend at the Gunks! I'm tempted to try for Friday too (to shake the rust off), but will be happy either way.
Weather looks good so far....
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taino
May 3, 2005, 3:11 PM
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DO NOT TEMPT ME.
I don't have enough vacation days to take off Friday, and still have three-day weekends all summer. *sob* I'm stuck in my windowless hell.
Adam - Rock & Snow, 8:30am, Saturday.
T
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climbingbetty22
May 3, 2005, 3:32 PM
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Why do bus tickets to the Gunks have to be so expensive? Over a hundred dollars and an over night trip to get from Geneva, NY to New Platz....ridiculous!!! Its the bus, I thought it was supposed to be cheap!
grinspoon-- did you and backspace get up to the Daks while I was on break??
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ikefromla
May 3, 2005, 3:50 PM
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Every weekend this summer... or fuck, any day. I can meet at Rock and Snow.
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shakylegs
May 3, 2005, 3:51 PM
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In reply to: Has anybody been to Keene Valley yet this season?
Was watching the tele on Friday (perhaps Thursday) when a weather alert came on warning about flooding in Keene. Apparently, all branches of Ausable were rising.
If the weather holds, I should be there this weekend.
And I can't believe no one thought of starting this thread beforehand.
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architect
May 3, 2005, 4:04 PM
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Sunday was beautiful!
My partners thought we would only get some R&S shopping in but it turned out to be such a great day of climbing! Not a soul in sight when we got there (except for the crazy Russians! great guys!) warmed up on Apoplexy, Laurel went over and did the Mantels (dis and Dat) pulled on Gory thumb and wild horses (still no one), put the Strong partner on to 'On any Monday' so I could score some crucial beta! looking to get it on lead next few weeks ( saw one group) then finished up on 'Never Never land' man a good day of climbing would include only one of those climbs not all of them!
OK back to lurkin' on this here site
><`,>
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barkeatervt
May 3, 2005, 6:21 PM
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Finally made it the Typhoon wall near hurricane in the dacks. What a great place to get away!! It dries out really quick as both cliffs face south. Great view of lock knob mnt, still some ice hanging from those cliffs!!
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mistertyler
May 3, 2005, 7:09 PM
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In reply to: DO NOT TEMPT ME. I don't have enough vacation days to take off Friday, and still have three-day weekends all summer. *sob* I'm stuck in my windowless hell. Adam - Rock & Snow, 8:30am, Saturday. T
Excellent! See you then.
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cracklover
May 5, 2005, 7:04 PM
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Question: I'll be in upstate NY (Syracuse) this weekend, and I have Saturday free. I was planning to climb at the Gunks for the day, but it looks like it'll be raining all day, so I figured I'd check out one of the gyms. So my question:
What's the best gym near Syracuse? I've found links to Electric City and Albany Rock Gym. Any others I should look into?
Height of walls, creativity of routes, and lead-climbing is all nice, but then so is proximity to Syracuse. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Oh, and AIR also says it has cracks - are they any good?
Thanks!
GO
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adamd
May 5, 2005, 7:57 PM
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The forecasts I'm seeing for the weekend look great...I'd head to Little Falls if I were you. I'd show you around but I'll be en route to the 'daks. There is some overhung bouldering that stays dry if it does rain, and the whole place dries quickly if it does rain.
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jackflash
May 5, 2005, 9:09 PM
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I may be headed to Little Falls on Saturday--an hour outside of Syracuse and closer than any gym, although certainly not anything as quality as the Gunks. It looks like if it does rain, it won't be much, and Little Falls tends to dry quickly because the rock faces south and is dark black.
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grinspoon
May 5, 2005, 9:36 PM
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Awww, screw you guys...stuff keeps coming up and I can't seem to get out lately. I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?
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capn_morgan
May 5, 2005, 9:43 PM
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howdy..I havent been posting much. Thought I would stop by and say hi. I will be in troy, ny for the summer and will be climbing every weekend. I have quite a few partners but if someone is looking for a partner let me know. I plan on climbing in daks mostly. If you live in the capital region and want some beta on local climbing ive got some cool spots up near Lake George that are worth checking out.
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jackflash
May 5, 2005, 9:50 PM
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In reply to: I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?
How new? The day before the train derailed I saw a bolted line above the swampy area. I wasn't sure if it was new or if I had just always missed it while concentrating on not getting muddy. It did seem to wander a bit though.
I'm mad as hell about that train derailing. I can't find the huge pile of pennies I'd left on the track...
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grinspoon
May 5, 2005, 10:56 PM
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Jackflash,
Yeah..that sounds like it. It's about time they got the wreck cleaned up, Moss Island blows.
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barnes33
May 6, 2005, 12:04 AM
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hey cracklover,
the cracks at AIR are mediocre. some of them are ok, but they dont keep up on their routes there. actually the cracks are the only routes that you can follow. i dont recommend it.
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climbingbetty22
May 6, 2005, 1:38 AM
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In reply to: Awww, screw you guys...stuff keeps coming up and I can't seem to get out lately. I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?
Greg-- you'd have more time for climbing if you'd stop spending so much time chasing tail!!!
Now that I'm back, I'll be happy to go climbing anytime you boys get it together. :wink:
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all_that_is_rock
May 7, 2005, 6:42 PM
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hey taino, I think we met this weekend. I was climbing broken sling with ryan while you were on disneyland??????? just wondering if that was you. see you out there soon 8^)
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cracklover
May 8, 2005, 5:01 PM
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It was a beautiful warm day at Little Falls. Had a good time!
Started at the Dihedrals. TRed a 5.6 and a 5.8, then led Devil Won't Care, Twin Cracks, and finished w/ a TR run on Day Tripper.
Then I went over to Moss Island. Did some bouldering and stuff. A fine day.
All in all I had a fine day! I enjoyed meeting some cool folks, and got in some very good climbing. Thanks y'all for sharing!
GO
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wormly81
May 8, 2005, 6:10 PM
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All that is rock...
Good times around the fire on Thursday night. Looking forward to more of that this summer.
I can't wait to get back down to the gunks. I think Yann's headed down on Wednesday; ill be following on Friday night. Are you going to be around?
Jeff
ps. dont you worry, we will have plenty more homebrew :)
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all_that_is_rock
May 8, 2005, 11:35 PM
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yeah I can climb anyday but thursday. stupid work :evil: and you better bring more homebrew that stuff is damn good.
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climbingbetty22
May 9, 2005, 12:16 AM
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Anyone climb at the Niagara Climbing Center? What's it like? How far is it from Depew? Do they have a new web address? The www.niagaraclimbingcenter.com address isn't working...
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yannbuse
May 9, 2005, 2:24 AM
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all_that_is_rock,
Good stuff at the gunks last week... as for next week ill be in on wednesday afternoon (like last week) so maybe we can sneak in a couple climbs... perhaps send our pitiful 'project' and get me damn quicklink back! Ill be climbing till sunday. When you finish work thursday we should meet up.. as for thursdayknow anyone/ is anyone available?
mmmm homebrew......
yann
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ikefromla
May 9, 2005, 3:11 AM
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i'm lookin to head up this wednesday.. or thursday.. or whenever. prolly gonna boulder unless somebody wants to rope up, in which case i'm down too.
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all_that_is_rock
May 9, 2005, 3:18 AM
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oh yann, do I have a project for you :lol: new, improved, and 2 grades harder. your quicklink was swept away into the fog of climbing booty by braver men than us :oops: (I went back and checked)
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jpearl
May 9, 2005, 3:22 AM
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Hey, cool, a NY climbers thread. Can us NYC gymrats play also, or is this for "real" climbers? (this is where Taino rips me to pieces!)
:wink:
Well, I'm back. I'd like to say I'm bad to, but I'm actually about four months out of training and a few pounds overweight at that. But hey, getting married will do that to you. Luckily, the Sandals resort in Ocho Rios, Jamaica where my wife and I spent our honeymoon, had a great climbing wall. I thought it would be dinky, but I brought my shoes and chalk along with me just in case, and I was not dissapointed. I might not have been dirtbagging it at the Gunks, but climbing a well-set wall in tropical island heat followed by a dip in a refreshing resort pool where I could swim up to the bar for a daquari more than suffices. I jokingly told my wife if she could send a route on the wall that I would do all of the cooking and cleaning when we got home. I even lent her my shoes and chalk, and gave her lots of beta. And you know what?
I've got a whole lot of cooking and cleaning ahead of me to do...
Great to hear that Adam is back, I hope he enjoyed his travels. Hope all is well with Taino and Happiegrrl. Maybe I'll run into you guys at the gym or in the area soon.
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ratherbe
May 9, 2005, 12:43 PM
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I'll be in the Southern Tier area (Corning) in a couple weeks. Any suggestions on places to climb as an easy day trip, potentially half-day (I am suppose to be going to spend time with family). Top rope, sport, trad, bouldering.... it's all good.
Thanks
Jen
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taino
May 9, 2005, 12:56 PM
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Yes, that was I on Disneyland with Terrie and Niru; is this Charlie? I didn't connect either of you with your screen names. :oops:
Jason - welcome back, and congratulations on your recent marriage. However, you do need to at least attempt to climb outside. Geez. :P
T
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mistertyler
May 9, 2005, 1:24 PM
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Jason! Congrats on your marriage!
When you finish cooking and cleaning, you'll have to come on back outside with us.
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shiggetyshiva
May 9, 2005, 1:40 PM
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:) Cool - NY State thread!
All that is rock - had fun climbing with you and RyanV weekend B4 last. We'll have to link up again sometime at the Gunks. I'm still up for a trip to Rumney for some forearm thrashing and bolt-clipping, too...
Went to the Adirondacks this weekend. Beautiful on Saturday, but cold, grey and windy on Sunday. My girlfriend and I were trying to find Shanty Cliff using the Don Mellor ADKS climbing guide, but didn't go far enough down Route 8. So we ended up bushwacking up what we now believe was Corner Mtn. Definitely no big face to climb, but we did stumble across some cool smaller faces (15 - 30'), a couple of which we cleaned a little and (quite possibly) made first ascents of. A short 5.5 and another route in the 5.9 range. On the way down from the mtn. we saw lots of potential boulder problems and a short, steep face (30') that would make some good pumpy climbing (if dry). On Sunday morning we found the real Shanty Cliff, but given the cold, chilly weather and our combined lack of enthusiasm for wading across the river, we headed home. We'll be back, Shanty Cliff!
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happiegrrrl
May 9, 2005, 2:27 PM
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Congratulation jpearl, on your marriage.
I didn't notice you not being at the gym, because I haven't been there myself....damned work!#%@&*!!!
But....I have a plan to be rid of the pesky substance(well, at least the part that is hindering me from getting to the gym at night and - with luck - will also give me Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!)
I am supposed to be leaving for AlaGeorgia (and Tennessee, too) this Thursday, to climb with dirtineye.....but alas, he broke his damned elbow yesterday! And NOT while climbing (rock, anyway). I am still going to go, unless he backs out, and intend to take full advantage of the handicap in any way possible.
ummmm....can a person belay with their arm in a cast?????
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taino
May 9, 2005, 2:39 PM
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In reply to: I am still going to go, unless he backs out, and intend to take full advantage of the handicap in any way possible.
Kinky.
In reply to: ummmm....can a person belay with their arm in a cast?????
That depends on what you define as "safe".
T
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kimmyt
May 9, 2005, 7:39 PM
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Hey, I read over on Gunks.com that the new GRAY DICK is finished. Does anyone know any info on when it will be available for purchase??
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taino
May 9, 2005, 8:29 PM
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Nope. But I'm reserving a copy from R&S, just in case. :D
Edited to say:
Spoke with Rich Gottlieb at R&S; the new Gray Dick will be in-store earliest Friday, latest Monday - and they'll have hundreds of copies, so no need to call and reserve ahead of time.
I'm glad I'll be up there this weekend. :D
T
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kimmyt
May 9, 2005, 9:33 PM
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Me and Eric are heading up there too (well, at least I think we are, he hasn't responded to my email). So maybe we'll see you around.
K.
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taino
May 9, 2005, 10:09 PM
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MUA, site 19 - that's where I'll be, if you're camping out. Kelty Gunnison tent.
T
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all_that_is_rock
May 11, 2005, 2:52 PM
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yeah tai this is charlie. see you camping :D yannbuse, wormly81 and I will be drinkin' homebrew and talkin sh!t around the multi abuse fire all weekend.
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taino
May 12, 2005, 6:35 PM
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Looking for a partner or partners for this Saturday, May 14 to do either some moderate multipitch or to toprope at Peterskill. I can lead 5.6-5.7, follow 5.8-5.9, jug up anything harder.
I've got a full rack, and enough webbing/static line to founder a mule. Beginners are welcome (even on multipitch), but you must have your own personal gear (harness, shoes, two locking carabiners, belay device, and HELMET) and you must know how to belay safely.
If you don't have a car, I can pick you up at the bus station in New Paltz in the morning. I will not be returning to the City on Saturday night, so you'd have to take the bus back as well.
I'll not have internet service after this evening, so feel free to drop me a line at (number deleted).
Cheers,
T
Edited to say: Thank you all; I managed to find someone with whom to climb. Cheers!
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sirlancelot
May 13, 2005, 2:14 AM
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Let me first say that its about time there was a NY climbers thread.
I'm also looking for a climbing partner this saturday. Will lead up to 5.7, follow up to 5.9. Feel free to call me at 201-841-3300.
Lance
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climbingbetty22
May 13, 2005, 3:09 AM
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I've tentative plans to climb at the Gunks for next weekend, the 20-22. Anyone available that Friday?
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taino
May 16, 2005, 2:03 PM
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D'oh!
Love to, but I've got a soccer game. Might be available on Sunday, if that helps.
T
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all_that_is_rock
May 19, 2005, 12:23 AM
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looks like the NY climbing thred is going pretty slow, it must be because we are all out climbing :lol:
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taino
May 19, 2005, 1:50 PM
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Damned straight.
That, and many of the Gunks climbers don't generally post on this site - they post on Gunks.com. *shrug*
T
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grinspoon
May 19, 2005, 1:57 PM
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Alright, I'll post up.
Last sunday I hit up the Dihedrals and climbed some routes on the upper tier that hadn't been climbed in years. There's a really cool chimney that has good pro.
This weekend, Keene Valley! I haven't been there since October to climb the Trap Dike. Way too long...
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shakylegs
May 19, 2005, 2:08 PM
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grinspoon, could you report back afterward to give us the heads up on the bug situation? Thanks.
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jackflash
May 19, 2005, 2:32 PM
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In reply to: Alright, I'll post up. Last sunday I hit up the Dihedrals and climbed some routes on the upper tier that hadn't been climbed in years. There's a really cool chimney that has good pro.
Is that the one near the right end of the Tier or the middle. A few weeks ago I did Risque Shift, which turns the roof instead of heading into the squeeze chimney from the handcrack both routes share. A very nice route. I need to do more of the routes up there, especially since its the only place where you can pretend the cliffs weren't devestated by chainsaw-happy rail crews.
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all_that_is_rock
May 19, 2005, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: grinspoon, could you report back afterward to give us the heads up on the bug situation? Thanks. |
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wormly81
May 19, 2005, 11:42 PM
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As Charlie said, the bugs are not a problem yet in the High Peaks and other Northern areas of the park. Its still a touch cold but that shouldn't deter anyone whose motivated from climbing.
The Chapel Pond slabs are a really good time. Expect a low angle friction-fest; the moves are all very straightforward but way above your gear (seriously). I would recommend the regular route for anybody who is interested in challenging their high-angle gunks jugfest paradigm (its also supposed to have the best pro on the slabs). The Empress has some very interesting terrain, just choose a line that takes you to the prominant offwidth.
I am constantly being impressed by the park. What a place.
Jeff
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shakylegs
May 20, 2005, 3:59 PM
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were you climbing on the left side of the slab? Near Greensleeves? Because, yeah, the gear is kinda sparse there.
Jewels and Gems, across the street, is a sweet little, non-populated crag.
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all_that_is_rock
May 20, 2005, 4:13 PM
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yeah shakeylegs, I think we started on greensleves and trended left twards the offwidth on emperess
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wormly81
May 20, 2005, 4:27 PM
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I don't think that would be correct Charlie.
From what I've been able to find out, Greensleeves is a variation of Empress that starts at the birch ledge belay (below the off-sized crack) and traverses right to a corner system that takes good gear.
I still havnt been able to find out what climb we started on; it was the nice crack 30 feet right of where the regular route starts (i think).
Jeff
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wormly81
May 22, 2005, 1:04 AM
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So it looks like rain all week. Anyone thinking about traveling to drier rock?
Jeff
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all_that_is_rock
May 22, 2005, 11:23 PM
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ha ha, yall suckers that listened to he weather man got jiped out of two buitifull days (at least in the AM) at the gunks. but the high E area was a mobscene. I went over there to do modern times and in the 10 min it took me to eat a powerbar, smoke a smoke, and rack up i got a (uncalled) rope droped on me and hit with a rock in the back. the same party guilty of these two offences droped a trad draw from halfway up that just missed me. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
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happiegrrrl
May 22, 2005, 11:41 PM
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I didn't listen to the weather report either, and just got back from Peterskill. Got my first NY lead in today, on Cornflake.
So funny - last year a guide was telling me that, for my first lead I should try a climb well within my ability, that I had follewed several times and had wired. And I thought "I'll be damned if I am leading Cornflake for my first lead!" I wanted something more "adventurous."(which I did get....my first lead was a 5.5 climb on wet, dirty rock, at dusk into darkness, that had been climbed by only a few people before hand.....)
I was remembering the flake on that climb to be practically as wide as a Gone With The wind staircase(yes, I exagerate.....). But today, when my partenr asked if I wanted to lead something, suddenly Cornflake seemed like exactly what I wanted to have.
It was funny - I went up to it and thought "Now THAT can't be Cornflake! Look at how miniscule that flake is!" hahahah
Anyway, I think I did okay. I kept in mind how theplacements would protect me if I came off and even if a piece pulled, something I didn't think about on my previous two leads, and when I had one spot where I wasn't finding a placement, and had the idea to just run it out, telling myself I wouldn't fall off, my inner voice said "Well, probably not. But you don't place gear thinking you will come off; it's in caseyou do." So, I looked a bit harder and got a pleacement.
The rain started up just as I was setting up the belay, so it was a short day for us, but I was really very pleased.
I also got the new Dick Williams guidebook. And the history he detailed is quite interesting! I have some ideas I want to post about what I read later on.......
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climbingbetty22
May 23, 2005, 12:20 AM
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I just got back from a great weekend at the Gunks too. My first time there!! I was very thankful that the weather forecast predicted rain because it seemed that it kept most of the crowds away.
I got to a great easy lead on Bunny, then we did Horseman (no waiting!!) Classic and Pink Laurel before the rain came in. It was definitely a great way to spend my birthday. Thanks so much to cracklover and misfit4life who gave me so much beta and showed a couple of Gunks noobies around!!
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seek7
May 23, 2005, 1:44 AM
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How did you and your friends find pink laurel?
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grinspoon
May 23, 2005, 3:19 AM
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Jackflash wrote:
In reply to: Is that the one near the right end of the Tier or the middle. A few weeks ago I did Risque Shift, which turns the roof instead of heading into the squeeze chimney from the handcrack both routes share.
The chimney is in the middle of the upper tier cliff. I was going to lead Risque Shift, but the chimney really caught my eye. I'll try it next time.
I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.
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grinspoon
May 23, 2005, 3:51 AM
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wormly81 wrote:
In reply to: Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?
Yeah..that's it, on the southside of the pond head into the gully, turn right and head uphill at the carin. By bolted anchors I'm going to assume you mean the face climb with 2 bolts for pro.
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wormly81
May 23, 2005, 3:59 AM
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In reply to: wormly81 wrote: In reply to: Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond? Yeah..that's it, on the southside of the pond head into the gully, turn right and head uphill at the carin. By bolted anchors I'm going to assume you mean the face climb with 2 bolts for pro.
I believe we are talking about the same place. The two bolts protect the face of the climb after it moves out of the dihedral/corner?
I was on the climb just to the right there maybe 5.4 or so with some wandering protection. It was really nice to climb right on the lake... even got a few waves from the guys fishing and whatnot.
Must get back to the park....
Jeff
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taino
May 23, 2005, 1:35 PM
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No climbing for me this past weekend, but I can't say that it was a bad weekend; played soccer for the first time in 18 years on Friday, scored two goals and had one assist. Went to a MLS soccer game at Giant Stadium on Saturday, and screamed myself hoarse (still can't talk, today). Spent Sunday recovering, and am still recovering today.
Hope to get up to the Gunks this coming weekend, if it doesn't rain. :evil:
Congrats on the lead, Terrie!
T
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cracklover
May 23, 2005, 3:38 PM
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In reply to: Thanks so much to cracklover and misfit4life who gave me so much beta and showed a couple of Gunks noobies around!!
You're very welcome! I had a blast!
In reply to: How did you and your friends find pink laurel?
Here's my perspective, as the leader on the climb: I enjoyed it. I found the first pitch to have two distinct cruxes - one down pretty low, and another about halfway up (getting out of one of the bombay chimneys).
The guidebook suggests that you walk over to the tree at the end of the first pitch, and then walk back to do the second pitch, but to get your full money's worth, I'd suggest belaying right where pitch one ends (and where pitch 2 begins). There's plenty of gear there to make an anchor, you'll save the tree from an earlier demise, and even though you've got a pretty comfy ledge to belay from, the exposure is, well, quite noticable!
There's only one or two real chimney moves, but if you're comfortable in chimneys, you'll feel much more comfortable placing gear from a restful stance.
Also, the second pitch, while looking extremely intimidating, is pretty easy.
Oh, and I found the climb to be one of the easiest 5.9s I've led at the Gunks.
And climbingbetty22 and Carter* were fine partners. Carter did not have much multi-pitch experience, but he learned fast! And climbingbetty22 was knowledgeable and just fun to have around. And she's got a great rack!
GO
*Edited to fix Carter's name (don't know his tag here on the board).
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climbingbetty22
May 23, 2005, 4:15 PM
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In reply to: And climbingbetty22 and misfit4life were fine partners. misfit4life hasn't had a ton of multi-pitch experience, but he learned fast! And climbingbetty22 was knowledgeable and just fun to have around. And she's got a great rack! GO
Aww.. thanks Gabe! I couldn't ask for a better compliment!!!
Just as an aside...Carter isn't misfit4lf... :oops:
You didn't get to see carter on his first trad lead on Sunday on a little 5.4 called Short Job...in the rain on wet rock nonetheless!!! He climbed it in fine style and looked really comfy on it!
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edge
May 23, 2005, 4:20 PM
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Greetings, NY climbers! I am glad you got your own thread up and rolling. If this turns out anything like the Mass or PA climbers thread, well, umm, maybe we shouldn't wish that on you guys yet... :wink:
Anyway, now that your thread has achieved official "(insert state name here) Climbers Thread" status, we need to follow suite and stop it from echoing to the front page. It will remain sticky, so you will always know where to find it.
Cheers,
Loran
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ikefromla
May 23, 2005, 4:23 PM
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Saturday was a gorgeous day for those of us who stuck to the boulders as well. It ended up being a day of working problems and not sending anything new, but nothin wrong with that. I'm headed up for the long weekend as well if anyone is interested in joinin me.
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cracklover
May 23, 2005, 8:52 PM
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In reply to: Just as an aside...Carter isn't misfit4lf... :oops:
Oops! Thanks for the correction.
In reply to: You didn't get to see carter on his first trad lead on Sunday on a little 5.4 called Short Job...in the rain on wet rock nonetheless!!! He climbed it in fine style and looked really comfy on it!
Good for him!
GO
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grinspoon
May 24, 2005, 1:07 AM
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wormly81 wrote:
In reply to: It was really nice to climb right on the lake...
Naw, can't be it then. This face is much higher up from the pond. I think the pond was barely visable.
In reply to: Must get back to the park....
Amen brother! Gunks...pfffttt....
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all_that_is_rock
May 24, 2005, 1:10 AM
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grinspoon wrote "Gunks...pfffttt...." watch it little man. :wink:
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shakylegs
May 24, 2005, 3:06 PM
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In reply to: I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.
What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?
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all_that_is_rock
May 24, 2005, 5:18 PM
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hey tai, grinspoon is just jelous that studs like you and I get all riped from all the roof climbing in the gunks :wink:
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all_that_is_rock
May 24, 2005, 5:19 PM
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edited because I hate when it double posts
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grinspoon
May 25, 2005, 4:14 AM
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shakylegs wrote:
In reply to: What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?
Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.
I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...
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happiegrrrl
May 25, 2005, 12:35 PM
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I have got to start getting to the Daks this season, even if they are twice the distance from my home as the Gunks are. I love the Gunks, but I have to admit - the idea of getting into areas where I don't see and hear others all day long is incredible. I have a friend who took me to an area like this down in Georgia and the sense of isolation makes for an entirely different experience.
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shakylegs
May 25, 2005, 1:42 PM
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In reply to: shakylegs wrote: In reply to: What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell? Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.
Isn't the start of the 3rd pitch absolutely wild? Plug in a cam as high as you can, and then just lay back that crack as fast as you.
And traversing under that tiny roof on the second pitch; yummy. It's such a great route.
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taino
May 25, 2005, 4:04 PM
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In reply to: shakylegs wrote: In reply to: What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell? Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep. I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...
As Gabe said, you're right - bouldering and climbing single-pitch at the Gunks is rather ghey. However, no big deal that you don't like to go there. It's one less climber that gets in the way. :)
T
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shakylegs
May 25, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: true story: I was at Red Rocks Rendevouz, and taking a technique class with some famous person; my GF and I went to climb what he'd set up, and he asked us where we climb... When he heard "The Gunks!", he said that all of the Gunks climbers he knew were hideously strong from having to pull through all the roofs. I guess there's some truth to it. :twisted: T
So, I guess you didn't mention your little epic on Shockley's, right?
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all_that_is_rock
May 26, 2005, 12:10 AM
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AWWW SHIT! shakey legs is callin tai out :lol: I musta missed this story, lets hear it........ to grinspoon: yeah the daks are fun, and a tad less crouded than the gunks. but I do like the climbing, and rock in the gunks better, you just have to know where to be on what days to avoid the crowds.
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all_that_is_rock
May 26, 2005, 12:11 AM
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and I live 10 min away so im kinda partial. you know that whole "my crags dick is bigger than your crags dick" thing. :wink:
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gunked
May 28, 2005, 12:44 PM
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In reply to: ... rock in the gunks better, you just have to know where to be on what days to avoid the crowds.
Amen to that! If you want to get away from the crowds, you just gotta be willing to hike. There's rock everywhere around here!
Happiegirrrl, you listenin'?
Did anybody get nailed bad by that thunderstorm yesterday? We were just packing up when it came in. On the way back to town, there were 2 or 3 emergency vehicles heading towards the cliffs. Just hoping everybody's okay (thrown in with a bit of curiousity :roll: )
It's a beautiful day today! Get out and climb!
-Jason :D
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happiegrrrl
May 30, 2005, 3:13 PM
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I am definitely "willing to hike".... especially if that means getting to places that aren't on the map. I'm still too new to go out in search of these things on my own at this point, except as recon for future reference, plus....I don't have a car yet, and just got my learner's permit(I let my damned license expire - helpful hint: NEVER let this happen to you.....I have to actually take the stupid behind the wheel lessons now. And, cannot schedule the road test until this is complete, and the wait for a test is something like 10 weeks!!!!!).
But I definitely am interested. I am willing to belay slave for safe people working on new things in exchange for their experience in this type of thing - I have held rope for another for hours and hours on end, and not on a gri gri, either. I am pretty sure the person would be happy to give reference on my ability to stay focused and aware and be a safe partner.
Anyway - I had to work yesterday and have to today. But I got out on Saturday, and seconded for Tradrenn(a Cannuck down here on his Gunks maiden voyage). I followed him up Minty and the first two pitches of Hawk(which has been downgraded from 5.5- to 5.4, if anyone's interested in knowing). Hawk, I would think, is not a climb for a 5.4 leader to be going at! GOD - was it FUN, though!
The it started to rain....grrrrr. But by the time we were on the ground - the rain had stopped! double grrrrrrr..... So, we went looking for someting else to do just the first pitch, and started on Oscar's Variation. I was fairly certain I would not be able to make it up that one, but was willing to try. It started to rain again as my partner was leading up, and I let him know that I understood if he preferred to do the cleaning on his way down instead of sitting up there getting wet and chilled while belaying me as I flailed up the climb.
I did get the opening move in and then it started to come down..... For myself, I was proud that I exectued that move in one shot . It wasn't so easy for me(Sometimes I have commitment issues....).
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happiegrrrl
May 30, 2005, 3:16 PM
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Oh yeah - I am pretty certain I can get out on this coming Friday, if anyone is interested. Only caveat is that I have to get back to the city in the evening, so need to try for the 4:55pm return bus.
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dirtineye
May 30, 2005, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: But I definitely am interested. I am willing to belay slave for safe people working on new things in exchange for their experience in this type of thing - I have held rope for another for hours and hours on end, and not on a gri gri, either. I am pretty sure the person would be happy to give reference on my ability to stay focused and aware and be a safe partner.
She's a good belayer. Has held unexpected falls like a champ, pays attention, really is a pretty fine belayer all around.
Will not complain even after hours of little progress, dodging rocks, vines and dirt all the while.
Cleans gear well, places gear well, likes to be safe-- unlikely to do anything stupid.
Will do trailwork on demand! (I said unlikely, not impossible)
can recognize poison ivy and avoid it, hehe.
IF you build a little fire under her, she can actually climb a lot harder than she claims.
Has good sense of humor for a damned yankee.
Just don't offer her bar-b-qued dog for lunch and everything will be OK.
Take this girl climbing.
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all_that_is_rock
May 31, 2005, 3:26 AM
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hey gunked I was there in the rain. I saw someone take a big whipper on modern times as i was leaving. they got the rope behind there leg and swung quite a ways into a slab. they were moving around and talking to thier belayer as I was walking away but that might have been the reason for the ambulances. I also saw those and was wondering if it was the guy on modern times. anyone else know what happend if anything?????
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grinspoon
Jun 1, 2005, 6:30 PM
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y0 m0f0s,
I was at the dihedrals last weekend and found some gear, lemme know if it belongs to you
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pjcozzi
Jun 3, 2005, 2:47 PM
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Hey NY climbers,
I’m looking for some beta on Horseman at the Gunks. I’ve heard it’s a “soft” 5.5 but it looks pretty steep to me. I’ve lead Jackie and Dennis without any (major) problems and was wondering how Horseman stacked up. Does it require a lot of crack technique?
I’ll be taking a 3-4 day trip up to there soon so I wanted to plan my adventures in advance.
Thanks a lot,
Patrick
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taino
Jun 3, 2005, 3:07 PM
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Patrick,
Lead it.
T
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nostalgia
Jun 3, 2005, 3:16 PM
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I should be able to (finally) get out to da Gunks on Jun11. Anyone need a partner? Here's my classified ad:
MWM seeks partner for Gunks climbing.
Will gladly second up to 5.8 or top rope.
Not into kinky stuff, likes to keep ropes straight.
Knows how to place passive pro and build TR anchors.
Self sufficient, no whining, always ready to learn.
Likes moonlit walks on the beach.
Will buy leader beer after climbing :)
-Joe
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taino
Jun 3, 2005, 4:12 PM
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Bloody hell, Joe - you would pick that weekend.
Drop me a line; I might have a lead for you.
T
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pjcozzi
Jun 3, 2005, 5:14 PM
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In reply to: Patrick, Lead it. T
Thanks for the vote of confidence. As long as the weather is ok, I’ll be at the gunks Thursday thru Sunday (9th – 12th). I’ll probably see you there.
Patrick
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taino
Jun 3, 2005, 6:01 PM
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I'll be there, regardless; I have an AMGA class that weekend, and it's rain or shine.
Good luck. :)
T
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jackflash
Jun 6, 2005, 1:17 PM
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I'm in the flatlands of Michigan for another week and am nursing a finger to boot, so I can only climb vicariously. What'd you all get onto this past weekend?
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taino
Jun 6, 2005, 1:40 PM
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Not a damned thing.
I injured my shoulder playing keeper in a soccer game on Friday night; couldn't move my arm all day Saturday, but went up anyway so that my partner would have someone to at least belay them on whatever. Ended up taking them through "ground school", so the day certainly wasn't wasted; I was outside, the weather was beautiful, and while I wasn't actually climbing I was doing something that involved climbing.
Anyone else?
T
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nostalgia
Jun 6, 2005, 1:51 PM
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Yea, I was going to Allamuchy on Sunday for some TRing. I ended up stepping around the pile of rope and gear in my hallway as I cleaned my house all day. :P
Sorry to hear about the shoulder. I miss my days as goal keeper :)
-Joe
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happiegrrrl
Jun 6, 2005, 2:17 PM
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I had to work both weekend days, but I was able to fanagle last Friday free. I went up to Peterskill and tried to do some bouldering(I am a weakling chicken, couldn't even pull off a V0). I did come upon a traverse that I was able to do so easily I was praying nobody would see me......(only saw one other party out there the whole day. very nice). I referred to it as the "Preschool Traverse." I suppose I should have tried to do it no-hands; that would at least be a challenge.....next time. And, I walked the cliffline, which was a good thing to do to get to know the place a little bit. I've always only followed others around.
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kimmyt
Jun 6, 2005, 2:30 PM
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Careful on those clifflines, they really weren't kidding when they said the copperheads are out en force this season!
I set up a beautiful anchor unknowingly ontop of one very-disgruntles 2-footer this weekend. Tai went to clean a hex and I said, "Yo, watch out for that snake" at which point he cleaned with even more caution. That sucker wasn't too happy at us disrupting his nap, thought he was going to bite the hex for awhile! (that Xmas hex is cursed I tell ya.....)
K.
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wormly81
Jun 7, 2005, 12:19 PM
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The weather up in New England was to die for this past weekend. Although a little hot and buggy, Rumney was fantastic Thursday-Saturday. Went up to the Franconia Notch on Friday to give Moby Grape a go but got shut down by lack of big gear on Reppys Crack. Wont make the mistake leaving the big cams in the car next time. Left Lake Winnipisauke around 2 pm on Sunday and made it back in the Gunks with enough time to cruise up city lights with a great view of the city lights.
Hopefully this week stays relatively dry at the gunks; Im really looking forward to getting some pitches in before heading down south on a scuba diving trip...
Oh and I have enough to worry about without your fabricated copperhead stories Tai... :shock:
Jeff
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taino
Jun 7, 2005, 1:28 PM
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Nothing fabricated about this one, Jeff. It was definitely a good-sized copperhead, and it was definitely not happy to see us. However, we left it alone and it returned the favor.
As Kim said, though, the snake looked like it was going to strike the hex as I was attempting to clean it; I was jiggling the hex to try to loosen it, and the snake didn't appreciate it. I stopped for a little while, the snake relaxed, then I started again and the snake decided that it wasn't worth the venom and slithered further back into the crack.
T
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happiegrrrl
Jun 7, 2005, 1:31 PM
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^ Use the marvelous rc.com *definitions tool* and run your curser over the word Copperhead in the above post.
Talk about specieism - I don't see any need for promoting animal cruelty......jeeeez.....
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 8, 2005, 6:30 AM
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hmm, what crack was that copperhead in?...... Tai, I hear its not smart to play with snakes in cracks. oh well, I guess at least you were useing protection. :wink: .....P.S. when is the next time you will be up here, I see you around enough, we should go climbing sometime.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 8, 2005, 6:32 AM
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hmm, what crack was that copperhead in?...... Tai, I hear its not smart to play with snakes in cracks. oh well, I guess at least you were useing protection. :wink: .....P.S. when is the next time you will be up here, I see you around enough, we should go climbing sometime.
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taino
Jun 8, 2005, 11:57 AM
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One of the larger cracks on the top of the cliff, just over Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man and Nutmaster, at Peterskill. Large enough a crack to put a #7 hex in, bomber.
It wasn't there when Kim built the anchor, I swear! Darned snake!
I'll be up there this weekend, but I've got a TRSM lesson that will preclude me climbing on Saturday and a fucked-up shoulder that will preclude me climbing on Sunday. After that, it'll be a few weeks - familial obligations, and all that. July 4th weekend - maybe. Drop me a line with your availability.
T
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seek7
Jun 10, 2005, 1:07 AM
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As a storm approached yesterday, I left a rappel anchor (cordelette and locking biner) at the top of "moby dick" to clean my gear on the route . Use them in good health. I know its not very enticing considering all the slings and biners left on twilight zone, but I rather not suggest to beginning leaders on "andrew" that this is a good rappel route. I suggest climbing "android" to "moby dick", which was a pretty awesome link up.
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happiegrrrl
Jun 10, 2005, 10:33 PM
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Hey -
Ralph (from Tuttenhill) has a post on Gunks.com, looking for belayers to work a corporate party in NYC on 6/25. If anyone need some cash, and fits the bill, check it out. It's in the Job Listings forum.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 11, 2005, 12:19 AM
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In reply to: As a storm approached yesterday, I left a rappel anchor (cordelette and locking biner) at the top of "moby dick" to clean my gear on the route . Use them in good health. I know its not very enticing considering all the slings and biners left on twilight zone, but I rather not suggest to beginning leaders on "andrew" that this is a good rappel route. I suggest climbing "android" to "moby dick", which was a pretty awesome link up. |
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 12, 2005, 6:29 PM
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here we go again, another week of rain in the wonderfull north east. :x I wish I could climb the routes that are under large enough roofs to stay dry (twilight zone, kansas city, yellow wall).
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seek7
Jun 13, 2005, 2:19 AM
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All_that_is_rock: Thanks for the offer, slack line away.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 14, 2005, 2:23 AM
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ok, all nude acent of MF in the gunks. who's down????
ps. man steming strongly frowned upon
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jackflash
Jun 14, 2005, 3:24 AM
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In reply to: ok, all nude acent of MF in the gunks. who's down????
Is it co-ed? I'd be "up" for that.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 14, 2005, 3:27 AM
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I'm trying. I realy want to do some nude/co-ed acents in th gunks.
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kimmyt
Jun 14, 2005, 1:03 PM
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found a partner
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feedmerocks
Jun 15, 2005, 2:39 AM
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Hi folks! This is a general introduction since I haven't posted any other partner requests this year. I'm in the Gunks a lot (both weekdays and weekends for the time being), in case anyone is looking to partner up.
This is my 4th season leading in the Gunks. My leading level varies - I can probably get up, on lead, routes from 5.8+ to easy 5.10 but may sketch out and hangdog depending on how sustained or devious the route is. I rarely fall, but have been known to hangdog. On the lead, I have onsighted a small handful of 5.9-/5.9, one 5.9+, and one 5.10a. Have transportation, rack, and rope.
It's getting into the hot part of the summer and right now I'm interesting in easy bouldering in the shade or easy trad, a few levels below my lead limit or on moves I'm fairly comfortable with. If you're looking for a partner, I'm happy to follow anything you lead and there's a good chance I can take over if you need to bail. But I'd prefer not to HAVE to take over, so please stay reasonably within your physical limits. Mental limits are negotiable - we all have our off days.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 15, 2005, 3:38 AM
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PM me if you need partners for any specific days. I am pretty flexible with my sheduale.
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happiegrrrl
Jun 15, 2005, 2:33 PM
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In reply to: ok, all nude acent of MF in the gunks. who's down???? ps. man steming strongly frowned upon
I'm saving my virgin NA for a lead on Shockley's; what can I say....I'm still a gumby traditionalist. But....it's going to be a while before I can pull that one off, and the op to be naughty is enticing. It's a good thing I have waaaaay to much ego and pride to do the hokey pokey(ya put yer whole self in...) on a line I would have no chance in hell of climbing with a modicum of grace.......
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kimmyt
Jun 15, 2005, 2:50 PM
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Funny, Terrie, I was talking about that just last weekend. You never hear of chicks doing any nude ascents. Why? Because probably it'd cause accidents down on the hairpin...
K.
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taino
Jun 15, 2005, 3:12 PM
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To say nothing of the whiplash and lead falls it would cause in leaders on adjacent routes. :shock:
T
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shakylegs
Jun 15, 2005, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: Funny, Terrie, I was talking about that just last weekend. You never hear of chicks doing any nude ascents. Why? Because probably it'd cause accidents down on the hairpin... K.
There were quite a few back in the day, Barb Williams being one of them.
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kimmyt
Jun 15, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Sweet! I figured there had to have been a few ballsy chicks back then that had done it.
K.
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happiegrrrl
Jun 15, 2005, 3:40 PM
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Guys would just have to keep their lead head on......and no, I don't mean that lead head.
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feedmerocks
Jun 15, 2005, 7:35 PM
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Elaine Mathews? Topless with climbing rack on the Vulgarian Digest cover, I believe. She might have done a nude ascent. Way before my time though.
Barb Moran (formerly Williams, formerly Moran?) is still climbing, and still good looking... :-D
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 15, 2005, 8:56 PM
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Elaine still climbs in the gunks.
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happiegrrrl
Jun 20, 2005, 3:35 PM
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So - did everyone have a nice weekend? I got to climb with RyanV and KimmyT at Peterskill on Saturday, and had a really nice time. Kimmy and I have both just begun leading, and it was really cool to watch her go on up. I never climbed with a starting-out leader before, and really liked to have someone in the same boat.
Seeing Ryan's posts for partner, we offered to let him climb with us(So generous of us.....I know I am fooling nobody. Because of Ryan, we got to climb things a little harder than we would have without him.)
I did one little baby lead, but - on a line that I don't believe has seen anybody up it before. Mainly because it is a midget climb, even for Peterskill. But.....it was good practice for me. Hanging on while carrying out strategic demossifying and cobweb removal - I have helped another partner with it, but I was on toprope and hanging at the time. Being on lead, even on a little project; just a wee bit different.
It was a good day all around, but man.....after attempting Golden Dreams, I had the biggest energy crash I have ever felt. I coulda used a cup of coffee.
I have next Sunday(6/26) open, if anyone needs a partner. And possibly - if anyone want to go up this Friday, 6/24, I can arrange it. I'm also interested in bouldering(on Friday) at Peterskill......
Kimmy - send me your email, and I will get your pictures to you!
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happiegrrrl
Jun 20, 2005, 3:50 PM
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On an NYC front - on Sunday I spent the afternoon beginning clean-up the Tito and Tanya cave in the Northwoods section of Central Park.
I am really interested in getting some bouldering partners to continue on with this. Anyone?
I took all the logs and tree branches out from under the rock's overhang, but I am not strong enough to really get them completely out of the way. It would be nice to have a hand in moving them out of the trail, where they sit right now, in a large pile.
I decobwebbed the face and crevices too. Next time I go up, I will bring a rake, and get the glass bits out of the drop zone. Other than that - it is only going to need people to start cleaning the holds as needed. The rock has got quite a bit of that greenish dusty-like coating. I don't know if it is lichen or what, but truth be told, at my level of bouldering(big holds only!), it doesn't get in my way.
The rock has some good entry-level boulder problems on it, none of which I can yet do, of course. I have found about 4 problems already but, being a big chicken, and having no crashpad.....I can't really get myself to commit.
There also seemed to be a little bit o business being transacted in the area..... I was a little worried about being there alone, but don't think I would feel uncomfortable at all if I had even one other person.
Please - post up or PM me if you are interested.
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wormly81
Jun 20, 2005, 7:10 PM
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Hey everyone,
With Charlie busy and my other partners not around I was hoping to find someone to climb with this week. I will follow anything and can lead 8's and better with a good belayer. Looking to hook up Tues, Wednesday, or Thurs (prefereably all 3).
*** Will subsidize experienced tradsters with 12 year scotch for knowledge and insight. ***
Jeff
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jackflash
Jun 20, 2005, 7:44 PM
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I went to Little Falls on Sunday for the first time after staying off a busted middle finger for three weeks. I taped a metal splint to the finger so that I couldn't bend it, which meant I couldn't use it in crimps or jams, or fit it into horizontal slots very well. So most of Moss Island received the bird from me at some point that day.
After helping a friend learn to set anchors, we left the Island for the Dihedrals, where I did a couple of cracks I've been wanting to lead: Trojan Elite, Buzz Junky, Harder Than Your Husband, and the Arrow. Great routes, especially Harder Than Your Husband.
I'm looking forward to a Gunks trip Thursday.
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kimmyt
Jun 20, 2005, 7:54 PM
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Yep, as Terrie said it was a nice day. Sunday was good as well, I didn't get any leading in but I was feeling more like following and it was quite crowded at the Trapps anyway.
I finally ponied up and bought a season pass, which really is the smartest thing I've done in a while. I mean, considering I've probably already spent twice the amount of a season pass this season on day passes alone....
Well, anyway, here's to hoping the weather stays nice and cool this upcoming weekend, and maybe I'll see some of you around!
K.
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feedmerocks
Jun 20, 2005, 8:10 PM
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In reply to: So - did everyone have a nice weekend? I got to climb with RyanV and KimmyT at Peterskill on Saturday, and had a really nice time. Kimmy and I have both just begun leading, and it was really cool to watch her go on up. I never climbed with a starting-out leader before, and really liked to have someone in the same boat.
Yo Terrie, Ryan is Good People. You did well to drag him into your party.
Had a nice weekend too, over at the Trapps. The weather was excellent wasn't it? I'll save the spray for elsewhere but I've got a project I'm working on lately as well.
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wormly81
Jun 20, 2005, 8:28 PM
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Partnered up.. Thanks!
Jeff
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 20, 2005, 8:28 PM
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Jeff, I'm up to climb friday.... you silly man whore you. and feedmerocks, whats the proj?
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 20, 2005, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: Partnered up.. Thanks! Jeff |
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climbingbetty22
Jun 20, 2005, 11:28 PM
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I'm stoked to be going to the Gunks this weekend!! I plan to torture myself by leading all the easy climbs I can get on. I need to get a lot of mileage on the sharp end so I can stop being a pansy and start upping the ante!! :)
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feedmerocks
Jun 21, 2005, 12:28 AM
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In reply to: Jeff, I'm up to climb friday.... you silly man whore you. and feedmerocks, whats the proj?
coex
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napoleon_in_rags
Jun 21, 2005, 6:31 PM
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If anyone is up for climing in the Adirondacks from 27Jun through 20Jul, send me a PM
-Pete-
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 21, 2005, 8:00 PM
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post deleted
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pjcozzi
Jun 22, 2005, 4:03 PM
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Anyone interested in climbing at the Gunks this Friday, June 24th?
I have a full rack and lead 5.5, follow 5.8/5.9. I’m willing to take a newbie as long as you have some lead belaying experience.
I’m planning on driving up Thursday night and will be in town until Saturday night. We can work out travel.
Check my profile for any additional info.
Thanks!
Patrick
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kimmyt
Jun 23, 2005, 5:46 PM
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X
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pjcozzi
Jun 23, 2005, 8:03 PM
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In reply to: Need a partner for climbing at the Gunks Saturday, 25 & Sunday 26 June. K.
Sent you a PM. Saturday might work.
Patrick
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 24, 2005, 12:31 AM
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hey feedmerocks, I heard you gave Jeff a run for his money. Did he talk your ear off about his "warriors way" :wink: :lol: all in fun Jeff, all in fun.
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kimmyt
Jun 24, 2005, 12:34 AM
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Still need a partner Sunday the 26th. Come on, help a gal out...
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feedmerocks
Jun 24, 2005, 5:49 PM
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In reply to: hey feedmerocks, I heard you gave Jeff a run for his money. Did he talk your ear off about his "warriors way" :wink: :lol: all in fun Jeff, all in fun.
No, he was tactful and didn't mention it at all! :shock:
Looks like this weekend is going to be a scorcher. I'll bet even the swimming hole will be warm around noon.
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feedmerocks
Jun 24, 2005, 5:51 PM
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In reply to: I'm stoked to be going to the Gunks this weekend!! I plan to torture myself by leading all the easy climbs I can get on. I need to get a lot of mileage on the sharp end so I can stop being a pansy and start upping the ante!! :)
How did your weekend go? Sorry I wasn't able to be more definite about partnering. Things are hectic lately.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 24, 2005, 9:09 PM
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lookin' for partner for saturday the 25th, any takers
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climbingbetty22
Jun 24, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Feedmerocks...going down this week. As soon as the partner drops by, I'm outty.
all_that_is_rock, if you're in a bind, you can always join me and my partner. I'll send you a PM with my digits.
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climbingbetty22
Jun 27, 2005, 11:41 AM
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WoW! I just got back from the most stellar weekend in the Gunks!!!! I had soooo much fun! Did some climbing too! :D
Dirt Dangler was christened (he's not into hero worship, but...), I managed to make a 5.5 into an aid climb and the benevelont Reverend Doobie and crew made sure that beer and whiskey were copious.
Thanks so much to Charlie, Jeff and the D&C crew for such an awesome weekend! Charlie- I hope you're still talking about your ascent of MF with a bikini-bearing belayer! :wink:
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climbingbetty22
Jun 27, 2005, 5:04 PM
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Oh yeah, by the way, did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear i heard that and it did not sound like thunder! I thought the whole damn cliff was coming down on my head! I tried to take off running, but given I was wearing flip-flops I only succeeded in falling down the hill and getting a nasty, stingy case of rock rash on my calf and thigh.
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 27, 2005, 5:27 PM
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In reply to: did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear |
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climbingbetty22
Jun 27, 2005, 8:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear yep, I thought I was about to meet my maker
Dork! :D I was with you when it happened! I know you heard it and thought the cliff was falling down!
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shakylegs
Jun 27, 2005, 8:49 PM
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Rolled into Camp Slime late Thursday night, to find it completely empty. Excellent. Grabbed the best spots, woke up to find a few more folks had arrived overnight.
Spent Friday belaying my partner, who's slowly getting his lead head back, on Horseman and Maria (gawd, I love that third pitch).
Saturday, we headed over to Drunkard's Delight. I started up, and nearly greased off the opening crux. That was kinda scary. Set up a belay under the roof and, as my partner was climbing up, witnessed a woman take a tumble off Bloody Mary. Seems she was trying to downclimb after finding the route too difficult, but hadn't properly tied her knot, so when she weighted it it came undone. Folks were pretty good in coming to her aid. I then started up the second pitch, pulling the roof, and was getting absolutely no slack from my partner, or so it seemed. What happened, unfortunately, was that one of my double ropes got stuck on the gear on my harness, so it just wasn't feeding. Pulled the roof, got a good stance, unwrapped the rope and finished the climb.
Lost a couple of quarts of sweat during the climb, it was so hot. My partner led Frog's Head after that, but it was so bloody hot out that we called it a day after that.
Woke up Sunday to major dehydration cramps, so we decided to head back home. Man, I can so not deal with heat.
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freeskicolorado
Jun 27, 2005, 10:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear yep, I thought I was about to meet my maker
Yep, me too.
Though I was also with both of you at the time, so apparently we're the only ones who got scared by a little lightning?
Yoco
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climbingbetty22
Jun 27, 2005, 11:54 PM
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YoCO! What's up! Nice to see you posting up instead of lurking like usual :D
How was your nap at work today? :roll:
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kimmyt
Jun 28, 2005, 12:34 AM
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In reply to: Rolled into Camp Slime late Thursday night, to find it completely empty. Excellent. Grabbed the best spots, woke up to find a few more folks had arrived overnight. Spent Friday belaying my partner, who's slowly getting his lead head back, on Horseman and Maria (gawd, I love that third pitch). Saturday, we headed over to Drunkard's Delight. I started up, and nearly greased off the opening crux. That was kinda scary. Set up a belay under the roof and, as my partner was climbing up, witnessed a woman take a tumble off Bloody Mary. Seems she was trying to downclimb after finding the route too difficult, but hadn't properly tied her knot, so when she weighted it it came undone. Folks were pretty good in coming to her aid. I then started up the second pitch, pulling the roof, and was getting absolutely no slack from my partner, or so it seemed. What happened, unfortunately, was that one of my double ropes got stuck on the gear on my harness, so it just wasn't feeding. Pulled the roof, got a good stance, unwrapped the rope and finished the climb. Lost a couple of quarts of sweat during the climb, it was so hot. My partner led Frog's Head after that, but it was so bloody hot out that we called it a day after that. Woke up Sunday to major dehydration cramps, so we decided to head back home. Man, I can so not deal with heat.
Yeah, it was definitely some hot on Saturday. I did two routes and then was pretty much done for.
Oh, hmm...feedmerocks, did you by any chance lose a piece of gear under Strictley? I found one and I think you and Ryan were the last ones on the route. If you let me know what it is I'll return it to you next time I'm up there.
K.
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freeskicolorado
Jun 28, 2005, 12:36 AM
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But I'm so much better at lurking.... it suits my engineerish lack of social skills so well :D
Yeah, I'm hoping my boss didn't walk by me today, because I spent at least 4 hours staring blankly into space. At least I was able to keep myself awake during a meeting this morning by reliving some of the moves on Birdland and Mother's Day Party in my head.
Do you want to support the "Give a Sport Climber Some Nuts" fund?
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 28, 2005, 5:19 AM
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I prefer the "get myself drunk" fund, but thanks for asking.
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climbingbetty22
Jun 28, 2005, 4:59 PM
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YoCo- I thought you already had a set of nuts? If you're going to pull the Sally Sruthers routine, at least ask for some cams!!!
Dirt Dangler-the ultimate dirty tradster, replete with the drinking problem. :wink: I now know that 3 measely bottles of Guinness is more of an insult then a contribution to the "Get Charlie drunk fund." (Granted, I did contribute to other funds like the "Feed Carlie Fund" and the "Take Charlie swimming so he can shower/do laundry fund" and I think there may have been one or two more I contributed to as well....:wink:). Next time I want to climb with you, I know to bring whiskey. Can you handle a little Maker's Mark or are you partial to the Knob?
And wormly- thank God you didn't spill that beer! You would have had to go to the klink for alcohol abuse for sure!
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lockeyaaron
Jun 28, 2005, 5:58 PM
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We were at the lake when it was storming and thought that the thunder sounded like something other than what it was too. People were staring when Chris, Giz, and I started running from the "incoming fire".
Dirt and Betty, thanks for the great company and for helping us finish the cooler every night. Hope we weren't too much for you guys, and we all hope to see you next time. We are going to be back down there the weekend of the 8th. Maybe we can do HE friday night the right way!!!! You guys all know where to find us. And if you dont just listen for the very loud arguments at 2 am, thats us.
Peace, Rev. Doobs
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 28, 2005, 8:36 PM
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In reply to: to climb with you, I know to bring whiskey. Can you handle a little Maker's Mark or are you partial to the Knob? |
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ryanv
Jun 28, 2005, 9:39 PM
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In reply to: Yeah, it was definitely some hot on Saturday. I did two routes and then was pretty much done for. Oh, hmm...feedmerocks, did you by any chance lose a piece of gear under Strictley? I found one and I think you and Ryan were the last ones on the route. If you let me know what it is I'll return it to you next time I'm up there. K.
After Strictly we couldn't take the heat anymore either. We went to split rock and went swimming then headed back to the Nears for a route around 4:30-5:00. It was an effective plan for dealing with the heat and i would recommend it for all the future hot days coming up.
On another note, I am looking for a partner for this sat. July 2. Any takers?
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climbingbetty22
Jun 28, 2005, 9:51 PM
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In reply to: We were at the lake when it was storming and thought that the thunder sounded like something other than what it was too. People were staring when Chris, Giz, and I started running from the "incoming fire". Dirt and Betty, thanks for the great company and for helping us finish the cooler every night. Hope we weren't too much for you guys, and we all hope to see you next time. We are going to be back down there the weekend of the 8th. Maybe we can do HE friday night the right way!!!! You guys all know where to find us. And if you dont just listen for the very loud arguments at 2 am, thats us. Peace, Rev. Doobs
Doobs, I was so already planning on being there that weekend!!! I'll definitely have to come over and hang with you guys. Had a blast. Too much for me? Hell no, I hope I wasn't too much for you!!! ;-)
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lockeyaaron
Jun 29, 2005, 5:22 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: We were at the lake when it was storming and thought that the thunder sounded like something other than what it was too. People were staring when Chris, Giz, and I started running from the "incoming fire". Dirt and Betty, thanks for the great company and for helping us finish the cooler every night. Hope we weren't too much for you guys, and we all hope to see you next time. We are going to be back down there the weekend of the 8th. Maybe we can do HE friday night the right way!!!! You guys all know where to find us. And if you dont just listen for the very loud arguments at 2 am, thats us. Peace, Rev. Doobs Doobs, I was so already planning on being there that weekend!!! I'll definitely have to come over and hang with you guys. Had a blast. Too much for me? Hell no, I hope I wasn't too much for you!!! ;-)
You definitly were not too much for us, I just hope that you werent too much for Dirt :wink:
We will definitly be down there the evening of the 8th so stop by if you are in town already. The whole crew will be down there that weekend along with the Gizmo and I's "crag dates". We will see you there. And yes Charlie, we will have beer and maybe a bottle for you again. See everyone next weekend.
Doobs
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 29, 2005, 6:31 PM
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damnit. I will be unable to attend mass with the good reverand. I will be there in spirit. In reply to: I just hope you wernt too much for Dirt :wink: |
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climbingbetty22
Jun 29, 2005, 8:21 PM
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Doob-
You and Giz are bringing the crag dates? Hope that doesn't interfere with your climbing. At least you won't have to be on your damn cell phones with them ALL THE TIME!
Unfortunately, I don't think the illsutratious Dirt Dangler will be in attendance that weekend.....
Speaking of whom-- Dirt before you start telling Doob to take some notes...you should take some of your own! Then you should fill Chris in because I think he needs the help too! hehehe :P
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all_that_is_rock
Jun 29, 2005, 9:16 PM
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In reply to: Speaking of whom-- Dirt before you start telling Doob to take some notes...you should take some of your own! |
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freeskicolorado
Jun 29, 2005, 9:54 PM
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Damn, this thread is turning into the D&C crew/Dirt/Betty party...
Now all we need is some random hippie chick to come out of nowhere and offer y'all a hit, and it'll be complete.
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climbingbetty22
Jun 29, 2005, 10:42 PM
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Nope, no climbing shoe smell...just some solid dirtbaggin' tradster BO, and for you Dirt, a couple more birthdays will help too :wink:
Yo CO, doooooode I just about fell out of my chair laughing at you sig. :lol: Chronic Master Beta- LMFAO!
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teti
Jun 29, 2005, 11:33 PM
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Drinking, climbing, climbing, drinking. I need to hang out w/ you guys/gals!
Mike.
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capn_morgan
Jul 1, 2005, 2:10 PM
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Anyone looking for climbing partners for the weekend? I may be down in the gunks tommorow, but I am open to other suggestions. I would love to spend the weekend in the daks. Ill be at work all day so im me or email me. Ill drive anywhere within a few hours of albany, I have ropes/rack/car/cooler for beer. Prefer to avoid the crowds but I know enough out of the way places that it shouldnt be difficult.
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wawona
Jul 1, 2005, 10:38 PM
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its a shame that this dirt bagger (me) couldn't make it and hang with the D and C and everyone else, but prob for the best some west coast stlye up there would make you cry in shame(D&C)..
for the boys i can't make it this weekend get leave on the ninth till the seventh so give me a call.
climbingbetty give those two love struck idiots D-C a good ripper for me, so they come back to reality.
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wormly81
Jul 2, 2005, 2:16 AM
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Anyone know what happened at the preserve today that brought the Gardiner first aid squad?
Hope everyone is ok.
Jeff
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climbingbetty22
Jul 2, 2005, 5:11 AM
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In reply to: its a shame that this dirt bagger (me) couldn't make it and hang with the D and C and everyone else, but prob for the best some west coast stlye up there would make you cry in shame(D&C).. for the boys i can't make it this weekend get leave on the ninth till the seventh so give me a call. climbingbetty give those two love struck idiots D-C a good ripper for me, so they come back to reality.
Wait, Giz? Are you not going to be there???? :shock:
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taino
Jul 5, 2005, 3:01 PM
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In reply to: Anyone know what happened at the preserve today that brought the Gardiner first aid squad? Hope everyone is ok. Jeff
I've heard rumors of a rappeling accident, involving a substantial fall. No further information has been uncovered.
Edited to include this link:
http://www.gunks.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=1,2,3,4,5&Board=general&Number=127508&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1#Post127539
Ouch.
T
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happiegrrrl
Jul 5, 2005, 3:51 PM
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I was up to the Trapps on Saturday and saw the ranger with the litter ready to go into storage again too.....We didn't ask what had happened, but it was certainly a reminder to me - the best climber may be the one having the most fun(that would be me, in case there might be any doubt....), but it's a serious business, this fun we get to have.
I got to climb with the our illustrious most disrespected rc.com user again, and had a very nice day. But then I had to work on Sunday and Monday....
And tomorrow night, I am headed down south for a week. Let's hope it's not too horribly hot...... anyway - I notice this guy "Beardy" from the UK posted for a partner. I saw his post a while back on climbnyc; suggested he might have some luck by posting here...... By my guess, this person would definitely do well as an exchange partner for the Gunks. Someone should show him around. Hope one of you kind folks will get in touch with him.
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all_that_is_rock
Jul 5, 2005, 6:40 PM
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what a weekend!! it was suprisingly temperate for july in the north east. got to do a linkup I've been meaning to do for a while now, and got to climb in some good company.......happiegirl, was that you that was with Rich at the deli?
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happiegrrrl
Jul 5, 2005, 7:12 PM
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Yes, it was me.
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jackflash
Jul 5, 2005, 8:25 PM
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I had a long weekend that started on Thursday. We did some moderate stuff at the Gunks, and then I led a route harder than anything else I've done there. I spent forever testing holds at the crux before committing to the sequence, and nearly fell off twice before getting through it. Unfortunately the elation was short-lived, as my partner hurt her ankle when she tried doing Absurdland.
The rest of the weekend was spent in the Adirondacks--my first time there. I'd been invited to hike with some friends, so I didn't climb at all. I'm not a big hiker and found it very strange that everyone we met was instantly talking about how many of the "high" peaks they had bagged. It was worse spray than most climbers dish out. Number-chasing of a different kind I guess...
*Edit for spelling
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climbingbetty22
Jul 5, 2005, 9:30 PM
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Dude, I was a total Daks virgin until this weekend as well. Ran up there Sunday night after I got off work. Bivied at the King Wall, climbed the ultra-classic and very fun Pete's Farewell and a couple other things. I noticed the peak bagging mentality as well. I was telling one of my climbing partners that it reminded me of when I worked near Rocky Mountain National Park. Hikers would get obsessed with hiking certain trails and peaks just to get a little patch with the name of the trail or peak on it. They'd stitch it on their pack like a little merit badge or somethin'. Oh well, whatever makes you happy right?
What did you lead?
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all_that_is_rock
Jul 5, 2005, 9:59 PM
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cool happiegirl. so you got to watch him flail on P-38? he told me the tails, but I'm sorry I missed it.
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jackflash
Jul 5, 2005, 10:08 PM
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I led Never Never Land.
Pete's Farewell is on my list of Daks climbs to do, but I've been dreaming of a Wallface trip since last fall. The plans are made: 24 days and counting.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 6, 2005, 12:14 AM
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I don't know if "flail" is the right word.....that one sort of has a connotation of someone making an attempt at something so far beyond the realm of possibility that it's comical..... Now, if it was me trying to get a foot up onto that climb; that I would consider flailing....
But yes, I did get to see him work on it, and I learned a bit by doing so, because I tend to give up too easily. It was cool watching someone really committing, and forcing their concentration to hold them into the rock when their body is trying to butter off. Let's see if I can apply the principals while I'm down climbing with dirtineye this week.......
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beardy
Jul 6, 2005, 7:31 AM
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Still looking for a partner for this weekend? outdoors, indoors i don't care!
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gunkjunkie
Jul 6, 2005, 9:21 PM
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The girl who had the rappeling accident on 7/1 is ok! :D The following is her post from gunks.com. She's very lucky!!!
In reply to: Hi. I'm Laura, I'm 15, and... yeah, I had a bit of an accident on Friday on Frogs Head. Basically, I woke up in the hospital Saturday afternoon. I had no idea what happened, but my mental state was good. I stayed concious for about an hour and fell asleep again. By being explained what happened a few times, I'm pretty sure I now understand: I was rapelling down on a rope set up by two people (we were all together) who had gone down beforehand. I was at the top of the second pitch with the understanding that a rappel was set up to go down to the top of the first pitch. HOWEVER, the people who had gone down before, after rapelling down the second pitch, had pulled one end of the rope down to hit the ground and tied it off to rapell off one rope. They had tried to communicate this to the partner I was with (he was much much more experienced than me, sort of acting as a guide), but there was a BIG communication problem. I'm not sure I can explain clearly what happened then. I started rapelling off the two ropes until one side ended, and then I fell. I basically freefell about 25 feet until I hit the ledge at the top of the first pitch, and I rolled and tumbled and kept going down until the knot caught. My partner tried to slow down the rope with his bare hands, obviously to no avail. I was twisted in ropes and bounced around a little. My partner rappelled down and somehow got me safely to the ground. I went to the hospital, was in a coma, and basically had a VERY VERY fast recovery. I am home now with a fractured kneecap and some nerve problems in my right arm. I was ridiculously lucky; I could have died. I don't blame the people I climbed with; everyone makes mistakes. Thank you all for your positive thoughts. Laura
Deirdre
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all_that_is_rock
Jul 6, 2005, 10:10 PM
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thats EXTREAMLY lucky. Glad she came out with only "minor" injury. Hope she has a quick recovery........ on a lighter note: Reverand Doobie, Chris, Christa I will see you all friday. I will bring some "comunion" if ya know what I mean. Cheers, Dirt
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climbingbetty22
Jul 6, 2005, 11:52 PM
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Alright Dirt, You take care of the 'Wafers' and I'll bring the Communion wine. Reverend Doobie can bless it and we'll take part in the most holy of climber sacraments! :D
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lockeyaaron
Jul 7, 2005, 9:39 AM
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BEWARE!!!!! The D&C crew will be in the Gunks in mass this weekend. We will be there in the usual spot on friday evening possibly not till late evening bc one memeber has to work late on friday. But we will be there, if you can't find us at camp just leave a note at the message board for "D&C", we will find you. See y'all there.
Rev. Doobs
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freeskicolorado
Jul 7, 2005, 4:13 PM
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I may in fact even make an appearance this weekend, though I'll be doing the dreaded TR thing at Peter's Kill ::hangs head in shame::. My excuse is my climbing partner is a newbie (me too, but he's even newer than me). Still firming up plans... but I think it's gonna happen. Might be at multi-abuse with you guys, might be staying with a buddy, we'll see.
YoCO
Edited once because I can't type.
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taino
Jul 7, 2005, 4:18 PM
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Nothing wrong with TRing at Peterskill, especially when bad weather threatens. Just watch out for the chiggers; little fuckers got me last weekend, big time.
Have fun!
T
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kimmyt
Jul 7, 2005, 4:30 PM
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all this rain is making kimmy go craaaaaaazy
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wawona
Jul 7, 2005, 5:06 PM
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i can't seem to get ahold of the rev. doobs or that other hippie C. for directions to services on the rock for this weekend, if any one can help that would be outstanding....
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freeskicolorado
Jul 7, 2005, 5:23 PM
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In reply to: i can't seem to get ahold of the rev. doobs or that other hippie C. for directions to services on the rock for this weekend, if any one can help that would be outstanding....
I'm assuming they'll be in the same spot they were two weekends ago...
Go the the NY State Multi-Use (multi-abuse) area. Easy enough to find, go straight out of New Paltz on 299 towards the Gunks, look for all the cars on the left. If you end up where the road ends at 44/45, turn around and it's maybe 1/2 mile down from the intersection on the right. From the main parking area walk to the right to the campsite directly next to the road. I'm sure it won't be too hard to find since I'm sure the Reverend's service will include a large fire, many intoxicating beverages, and a profound amount of swearing.
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all_that_is_rock
Jul 7, 2005, 9:22 PM
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In reply to: Nothing wrong with TRing at Peterskill, especially when bad weather threatens. Just watch out for the chiggers; little f--- got me last weekend, big time. Have fun! T |
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all_that_is_rock
Jul 7, 2005, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: I'm sure it won't be too hard to find since I'm sure the Reverend's service will include a large fire, many intoxicating beverages, and a profound amount of swearing. |
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freeskicolorado
Jul 8, 2005, 2:04 AM
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Change of plans, I won't be making it to the Gunks this weekend after all... have a good time, everyone.
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lockeyaaron
Jul 8, 2005, 1:16 PM
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Ok guys I am leaving work for the house. It still doesnt look like we are going to be making it down there till around 930 or 1000 tonight though. If Dirt, Krista, if you get there before we do can you grab our spot for us. Would really appreciate it!! And dont worry everyone, I am holding service tonight to pray to the gods to keep the rain away!!! And yes there will be intoxicating drinks and lots of swearing. See you guys tonight.
Rev. Doobs
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taino
Jul 8, 2005, 1:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Nothing wrong with TRing at Peterskill, especially when bad weather threatens. Just watch out for the chiggers; little f--- got me last weekend, big time. Have fun! T well if ya came over to the Mac wall with me you could have avoided the chiggers, and watched me whimper up mothersday party. :wink:
Charlie, the chances of my climbing something on the Mac wall fluctuate wildly between slim and none. At least I got some climbing in, at Peterskill. :P
Have a good weekend, folks; I'll be in Boston. Not climbing.
T
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belvedere
Jul 8, 2005, 7:37 PM
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Hey Y'all,
I'm not sure this is the right place, but I really want to climb more this year than last. Sadly lack of experience (can't lead yet) and lack of partner makes this kinda hard. I'm in New Paltz pretty much every weekend and would love to follow some one and learn. I got all the basic stuff and a nut tool and I Really wanna climb! So......I'll follow any thing I can if you invite me along!
See Y'all :D
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belvedere
Jul 8, 2005, 7:39 PM
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Hey Y'all,
I'm not sure this is the right place, but I really want to climb more this year than last. Sadly lack of experience (can't lead yet) and lack of partner makes this kinda hard. I'm in New Paltz pretty much every weekend and would love to follow some one and learn. I got all the basic stuff and a nut tool and I Really wanna climb! So......I'll follow any thing I can if you invite me along!
See Y'all :D
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maimed
Jul 11, 2005, 2:20 PM
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Awesome day at the Trapps yesterday. The place seemed deserted, considering the day was so prime weatherwise.
I did my first lead pitch on Bunny, (passive gear placement and rope management issues to work on). Then followed High E, which was empty except for the peregrines flying by. I ended up doing a variation from the Belay ledge up to the crux on the top pitch, climbing the vertical face of the right (Doubleissima) side of the arete before doing the squirm. Anybody know if that variation has a name besides 'How many yanks on the rope means "slack" again?'
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lockeyaaron
Jul 11, 2005, 4:30 PM
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Another great weekend in southern NY. The weather was shitty friday night but fortunalty for us Dirt and Betty already had the campsite all set up when we got there. Saturday was great, did the Mac Wall with Dirt gunning for us. Repayed him later that evening with a bottle of Jamison's. Yesterday about half the crew climbed while the rest of us just hung out and went swimming. Thankyou to everyone for making this another great weekend and we will be back down there the third weekend in Aug. See you guys there.
Peace, Rev. Doobs
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lockeyaaron
Jul 11, 2005, 4:31 PM
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Another great weekend in southern NY. The weather was shitty friday night but fortunalty for us Dirt and Betty already had the campsite all set up when we got there. Saturday was great, did the Mac Wall with Dirt gunning for us. Repayed him later that evening with a bottle of Jamison's. Yesterday about half the crew climbed while the rest of us just hung out and went swimming. Thankyou to everyone for making this another great weekend and we will be back down there the third weekend in Aug. See you guys there.
Peace, Rev. Doobs
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cracklover
Jul 11, 2005, 4:35 PM
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No, thank *you* reverend, for that prayer on Friday night. The weather was perfect.
GO
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climbingbetty22
Jul 11, 2005, 8:22 PM
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So much for repaying dirt with that bottle of Jameson considering Giz bogarted the whole thing!
But yeah, it was another amazingly fun weekend at the Gunks. Third weekend of August? I'm writing it in my calendar already! The esteemed Dirt Dangler should be free for a weekend visit by then as well.
Took my first lead fall this weekend as well. That was pretty exciting. Luckily I was able to get back on the horse the next day, somewhat! Thanks Gabe for the great catch and the excellent advice on that first piece!
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taino
Jul 11, 2005, 8:28 PM
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On what route did you fall?
T
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climbingbetty22
Jul 11, 2005, 8:57 PM
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Sixish :oops:
Note to self: don't try to go for the wide stem between the opposing corners in the beginning. Especially not if the side pull is slippery.
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wormly81
Jul 12, 2005, 5:50 PM
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Monday was a bit hot in the Preserve but I'm not complaining when theres dry rock to climb. Started off the day on Drunkards and Morning After then used the midday heat as an excuse to head over to Peterskill for the first time. Found a squeeze chimney to lead (real fun) and toproped a couple interesting lines. (anyone know where I can find guidebook style information on peterskill?) Got back into the preserve around 4:30 and stretched off on Classic and Jackie. Good times.
Heading up to Boston to take care of some administrative BS. Looks like alot of moisture is headed this way soon :(
Jeff
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climbingbetty22
Jul 12, 2005, 9:32 PM
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Hehe.. at first when you said you were heading up to Boston, I thought you mean the climb by CC route, not the city! I totally have Gunks on the brain! :roll:
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wormly81
Jul 12, 2005, 10:05 PM
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Nope Im headed north (not to the uberfall :) )
Hopefully I'll be able to sneak up to Cannon but I have a feeling my roomates just wanna get shitfaced all weekend on Lake Winnipisauke. Oh well, I knew what I was getting into when I signed that lease.
Jeff
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jackflash
Jul 13, 2005, 3:22 PM
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Yesterday I bought a year-membership to the Gunks. After avoiding the rangers for so long I feel so...legal. I finally got nabbed by one nearly two weeks ago and decided to cough up the rest of the green and get the pass. May it see plenty of use.
I wandered over to the Nears for the first time and did Yellow Ridge, Inverted Layback, Te Dum, and Broken Sling. Somehow I ended up with all the good pitches for my leads. The arete on Yellow Ridge is definitely worth doing again, and the crux of Inv. Layback was a blast, although I'll admit I was very worried about pulling it. We managed to get off the cliff and get our gear in the packs before the skies let loose.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 13, 2005, 4:07 PM
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I just got back from a road trip down south. Delta managed to lose one of my bags on a directflight.....messed up the trip quite nicely, waiting and waiting to hear about the bags. I was lucky to have gotten the bag with my shoes, helmet and harness, though.... Lost ALL my PrAna pants - quel horreurs! And a lot of camp gear - grrrrrr..... The bag never turned up. Let the games (of compensation) begin......
Note to self: Harness/shoes/helmet go in the carry-on. This was too close for comfort.
But, apart from that, and the rain, we did get some climbing days in. We climbed at Palisades in Alabama on Friday, and I led a 5.4 (Buckets) clean. Then my partner put me on Box Lunch. My first 5.7 lead. I got up the thing, but if the 5.4 was an on-sight, I would have to declare this lead a "not a pretty-sight"...... Dirtineye jugged up another line and acted as photgrapher, coach and whipmaster.....Now he's got pictures which he can blackmail me with. He says he can put up the send version or the hangdog version, depending on his whim.....there are some absolutely hi-larious shots of me with looks of utter terror, trying to commit to the crux.....
There was more, but alas I have not much time right now. We headed to the Big South Fork on Saturday and........well......ho-leee.....shiiiiiit. I saw only a tiny bit (a bit of the O & W Wall and walked Crackhouse Wall), but it is definitley a mecca of US climbing for those craving wilderness, adventure and hard, overhanging new lines. Section after section of auditorium-like caevernous cathedrals.
Anyway - I gotta get going. Work beckons. I'm looking for a Gunks partner for Saturday if the weather is workable.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 13, 2005, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: Yesterday I bought a year-membership to the Gunks. After avoiding the rangers for so long I feel so...legal. I finally got nabbed by one nearly two weeks ago and decided to cough up the rest of the green and get the pass. May it see plenty of use.
Yeah, I've been threatening to buy an annual pass for the last several weeks now, but I think being legit would take all the fun out of it!
so jackflash- you're in Syracuse...how often to you get down to the Gunks? I live about 30 minutes west of Syracuse in the Finger Lakes....
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jackflash
Jul 13, 2005, 4:50 PM
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I've been getting to the Preserve once every week or two recently, apart from some finger rehab. So far I've only been down on weekdays, because thats when the partners I find want to go. If you want to split a ride it doesn't take much arm-twisting to convince me to climb.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 13, 2005, 9:13 PM
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Don't worry T, I make enough contributions to the local economy in one way or another.
Before you get your panties in a bunch, remember you have a job. I'm a poor grad student. If you want, I'll formalize my charity and get you the tax number so you can write off your contribution. :roll:
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kimmyt
Jul 13, 2005, 9:51 PM
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Lots of people don't pay the day fees, etc. at the Gunks. I just think it's a bit inconsiderate to boast about it online. Gives others that don't know any better the idea it's okay.
But then maybe I'm just a stodgy old brown-noser or whateva.
K.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 13, 2005, 10:06 PM
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I didn't say that I never paid. I buy day passes, just not the membership.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 13, 2005, 10:17 PM
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CB - the membership is the same thing as the day pass, except it's more economical if you enter the preserve frequently- $85 per year, vs. the cost of a day pass. You don't have to hassle with stopping to pay each visit and put the sticky tag on your pack. Plus, you can then deduct from your taxes. You made that comment in a snide way, though I'm sure you didn't really intend to be so.......
Looks like you plan on partying in the preserve at least 8 times, so......you do the math! Just gotta cough up the scratch in one lot; that can be the tough spot for someone on a tight budget. Beer....year pass. Beer....year pass.....Why must one be forced to choose!!!???
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climbingbetty22
Jul 14, 2005, 12:43 AM
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Yeah happie, that's the caveat. Its alot of money from me to come up with at one time...especially when I need to budget for gas, food, tools, beers, etc. Not that other people don't have to pay those things, but I'm a student...blah, blah, blah.
Does the Mohonk Preserve take credit cards online?
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jackflash
Jul 14, 2005, 12:55 AM
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If you don't do it at the Visitor's Center, you can print out a form and send it in, then they'll send you a pass. The downside to that is you risk not having your pass arrive in the mail before your next trip, but that just means you have to go to the visitors center to get a temp.
http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/member/individual.php
If you include one of your day pass bands from less than two weeks ago and a photo-copy of your student ID, the price drops down to $65.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 14, 2005, 3:44 AM
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Yes, yes, I have printed out the form. I plan to fax it tomorrow. Anyone know how long it will take for them to send it to me? Next trip is tentatively planned for the last weekend of the month.
Thanks Jack for reminding me to include a copy of my student ID. Unfortunately, I think my last day pass is past the expiration date ;-)
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kimmyt
Jul 14, 2005, 12:43 PM
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Yeah, I bought my season pass and realized after I'd left my car that I could get a discount if I gave them a wristband from the last week. The problem being that I assumed I'd thrown out all my wristbands previously used. So, I shell out the bucks, grumbling the whole time about how I should have saved those darned wristbands, and as I walk back to my car what do I find all shriveled up in the depths of my pocket?
Gah. I coulda killed myself for stupidity.
K.
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wet_buffalo
Jul 14, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Hey
does anybody have any recent info as to what closed or opened up in the DAKS (falcons)
I checked the DEC.website and the latest info is from may
hoping one of u happy campers has been up north
mostly looking for po-ko wall info
thanks
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climbingbetty22
Jul 14, 2005, 10:01 PM
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Taino, kimmyt, and happie-
Y'all don't have to support me anymore. I bit the bullet and faxed in a membership form to the Mohonk Preserve today. Hopefully I'll have my very own flashy little yellow member car by my next visit.
Maybe I'll even post a picture of me posing with it online when I get it.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 15, 2005, 1:37 AM
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You got a flashy yellow car for a measly $65 bucks? Mannnnn....... all I got was a laminated card, and I paid $85! (You made a typo/ I made a joke.)
Jeez - what's up with the attitude, betty? It must be nice to think you deserve to be exempt from the rules that are asked of us for the priveledge of climbing on private land. Access that CAN be taken away and, if you are up on what is going on in the area, has been a point of contention recently. If you've been buying the day pass, why are you making yet another snide comment about not paying your way?
Maybe it might help to imagine that your $65 helped defray the cost of rescue for that 15 year old girl who rapped off the end of her rope last week. She was a newbie, entrusting those with more experience to keep her safe. As you posted, the rescuers could have as easily been picking up the pieces of you.
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taino
Jul 15, 2005, 1:03 PM
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In reply to: Taino, kimmyt, and happie- Y'all don't have to support me anymore. I bit the bullet and faxed in a membership form to the Mohonk Preserve today. Hopefully I'll have my very own flashy little yellow member car by my next visit. Maybe I'll even post a picture of me posing with it online when I get it.
:drama:
:roll:
T
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grinspoon
Jul 15, 2005, 3:03 PM
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Jeezus...can we discuss anything else on here besides Gunks drama? I'll throw in my .02 cents..fuck the Gunks and it's NYC-like scene. Flame away.
Anyways, I hope to get to the Dacks soon..I'm gonna be at the Glen getting spanked on some old projects this weekend, but hopefully soon I'll be up in the north country. Who's been to the Dacks lately/what did you climb?
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kimmyt
Jul 15, 2005, 3:08 PM
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I'm headed up there this weekend for the first time. I'm pretty excited, that is, if it doesn't pour on us all weekend.
K.
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shakylegs
Jul 15, 2005, 4:57 PM
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Kimmy, where are you going to be? I'm heading down tomorrow, thinking of either the Beer Walls or Barkeater.
If you see a woman with long red hair, um, I'll be the fellow next to her.
Might end up swimming at Chapel Pond afterward.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 15, 2005, 5:11 PM
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In reply to: Jeezus...can we discuss anything else......grumble, grumble, etc.....Who's been to the Dacks lately/what did you climb?
Well.........the old saying was "If ya can't stand the heat....." but in an era of the nanosecond, it might be go something like "If ya can't stand the she-et, stay outa the sewer!"
I jest, sir. I jest. But, to show I'm a good sport, I'll take your quasisuggestion of getting back to nature, and post some of my recent snapshots. From Peterskill.
http://img.photobucket.com/...red2005-6-300025.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...red2005-6-300032.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...red2005-6-300042.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...red2005-6-300059.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...red2005-6-300066.jpg
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kimmyt
Jul 15, 2005, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: Kimmy, where are you going to be? I'm heading down tomorrow, thinking of either the Beer Walls or Barkeater. If you see a woman with long red hair, um, I'll be the fellow next to her. Might end up swimming at Chapel Pond afterward.
Actually, erm, I have no freaking clue. I asked my partner and he gave me a very vague "I don't know, we'll see what we feel like". So. But I'll keep my eyes out for your red-headed partner and you.
I'll be the girl with duct tape on her ass.
K.
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shakylegs
Jul 15, 2005, 5:55 PM
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In reply to: I'll be the girl with duct tape on her ass. K.
All righty then. It still won't heal, you know.
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jackflash
Jul 16, 2005, 9:51 PM
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Just got my Gunks pass in the mail. Too bad the rain probably won't let me use it this week.
Before the rain came, I spent the day at Little Falls top-roping some favorites and jumping on The Virgin, which I hadn't worked since last season. No further headway this time, but at least I didn't do any worse. I'm not sure I'll ever deflower that one.
14 days and counting
http://www.adackclimbs.com/wallface/wallface_a.jpg
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freeskicolorado
Jul 17, 2005, 12:09 AM
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Damn rain. We ended up in a gym in Toronto today on account of rain, and ended up cancelling plans for Little Falls tomorrow. Now my shiny new Friends will have to sit here in my apartment unloved, lonely, and pining to be placed in some sexy little crack.
14 days and counting, indeed. And the weather next weekend will hopefully be more cooperative for a "local" trip.
Jeff
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gunkiemike
Jul 17, 2005, 2:11 AM
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In reply to: CB - the membership is the same thing as the day pass, except it's more economical if you enter the preserve frequently- $85 per year, vs. the cost of a day pass. You don't have to hassle with stopping to pay each visit and put the sticky tag on your pack. Plus, you can then deduct from your taxes.
You can only deduct contributions in excess of $85. (or the cost of whatever type of pass you buy e.g family, biking, climbing+biking etc). This is basic IRS rules re. payments to a non-profit that get you something of value in return. Now if you were to buy an annual membership and then never use it for some reason, injury or relocation perhaps, you MIGHT consider that you got nothing of value for your $85 and then you could deduct it.
I'll leave it up to you to convince the IRS of this interpretation however. :P
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climbingbetty22
Jul 17, 2005, 5:03 AM
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YoCO- which gym in Toronto did you guys end up at?
OK Mike, I'm confused can I or can I not deduct my Gunks pass from my taxes?
Jack- how long did it take you to get you laminated card once you turned the membership form in?
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gunkiemike
Jul 17, 2005, 10:27 AM
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In reply to: OK Mike, I'm confused can I or can I not deduct my Gunks pass from my taxes?
You can't deduct the $85. If you sent in, say $300 then you could deduct 215 as a charitable contribution.
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jackflash
Jul 17, 2005, 1:41 PM
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In reply to: Jack- how long did it take you to get you laminated card once you turned the membership form in?
Four days. It's shiny and red.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 17, 2005, 2:25 PM
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...it took a month for mine to come in the mail.....but I sent a check in the mail, as opposed to c/card. Maybe they had to wait for it to clear and all that. Even so, next time you're up, you can stop by the visitors center and get a temporary card to use until your shiny laminated card arrives.
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jackflash
Jul 17, 2005, 2:33 PM
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Browsing Gunks.com I noticed they had a recent interview with Ron Knapp, the president of the board of directors for the Preserve. It's full of info on where your money goes and what the Preserve wants to accomplish regarding camping, parking, closures, and other areas important to climbers.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 17, 2005, 4:25 PM
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Interesting. I'll have to read that. Is the multi-use area with in the area if the Preserve? It would be super nice to see some money go towards putting some sort of facility there. That area sees a lot of impact from human waste and as well, it just gets damn annoying to run up to the deli everytime you gotta take a shit. :roll:
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happiegrrrl
Jul 17, 2005, 5:39 PM
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Betty - I hope it doesn't seem that I am picking on you.....
Bring a shovel w/you, dig a cat hole, make your pooh, fill it in after use. A bigger hole if you're multiday camping, or a single-use for that after-coffee constitutional. Mission accomplished....
And a ziplock baggie for the tissue, of course. Pack it out.
Best pooh spot is off the trail but not hard to find, on a slope that had a sturdy tree to latch onto above it. Syle points if it has a branch stub to spool the TP on while you're getting business handled.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 17, 2005, 6:37 PM
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Happie-
I know how to dig a cat hole. I know about LNT. I've been in the backcountry on more then one occassion.
My point is this- first and foremost human waste is so toxic these days from all the friggin' shit we eat and the chemicals in it, that it doesn't degrade at the rate it should. Second, that particular area of land is too small to handle the load of the people on it. There are just too many people taking too many poops in too condensed a time period for the land to handle. In these situations, land managers often opt to use a pit toilet in order to concentrate the impact in one small area rather then burden a larger area with it. Hence my suggestion that they install some sort of facility at the multi-use area.
On more then one occassion, I have thought I found the perfect little area to make a deposit, only to find someone else has beat me to it. (Gross) When that sort of thing begins happening pretty regularly, it is pretty obvious that the land is not keeping up with the impact on it.
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yo_escalado
Jul 17, 2005, 6:50 PM
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I love Keane Valley, what a great place.
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dirtineye
Jul 17, 2005, 11:25 PM
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You girls stop fighting about how to shyte or not shyte-- someone else figured out ,"the better way":
In reply to: I'll be the girl with duct tape on her ass. K. |
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shakylegs
Jul 18, 2005, 3:20 PM
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Weekend report: Get to Keene Valley heading towards Beer Walls; the rain comes down. Head to Keene to check out Barkeater. Everything wet and muggy, but hot. Head to Chapel Pond to swim, the rain begins anew. Go to Lake Placid. Watch Wedding Crashers.
Sunday, wake up to rain. Everything is wet. Head home.
You know, I wouldn't mind climbing one of these days.
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kimmyt
Jul 18, 2005, 3:25 PM
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Dude, I was totally at Beer Wall in the a.m. Did we meet? I was sans-duct tape that day.
K.
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shakylegs
Jul 18, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Dhuuuud-ette, whoa. Nah, we got there around 1. Our alarm clock (the cat) didn't go off until 9, and we didn't leave the city before 10:30 or so.
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kimmyt
Jul 18, 2005, 3:40 PM
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Ah. We did Beer Wall in the a.m., got rained off a few times, waited for the rock to dry a few more times, did a few things on TR then went into Keene to ogle stuff at the Mountaineer. The rain stopped, and we headed to Creature Wall, got in one route before the rain and thunder threatened again and it just got too humid to climb. So we headed back. Rain over the entire state of NY even hijacked my plans to climb at the Gunks on the way home, so I just came back and am now enjoying my pointless day off.
K.
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cracklover
Jul 18, 2005, 4:15 PM
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The Gunks was good (but a bit muggy) on Saturday. Sunday was quite literally a wash.
GO
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taino
Jul 18, 2005, 7:04 PM
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Indeed; the air was thick enough to slice, but it apparently wasn't nearly as bad as it was on Friday. :shock:
Spent all day at Lost City doing TRSM stuff; the TRSM final got rained out, on Sunday. Rain or shine, yes - but in torrential downpours... hellfire and dalmations.
T
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maimed
Jul 18, 2005, 9:03 PM
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Swam upstream on Gelsa during the deluge yesterday afternoon. Who knew there would be a cascade showering down right where I was trying to climb? Successfully led P1 and P3 though in adverse conditions.
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freeskicolorado
Jul 18, 2005, 9:32 PM
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In reply to: YoCO- which gym in Toronto did you guys end up at?
We ended up going to Joe Rockheads. Most definitely worth the visit if you're in the area and feel the need to pull some plastic. I wish we had a place like that in western NY to make up for our lack of real rock.
YoCO
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climbingbetty22
Jul 19, 2005, 1:16 AM
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I think they were just opeing that place up when last I was in Toronto. Only climbed at the Oasis. That's a pretty kick-ass little gym as well.
Did you make it to Little Falls on Sunday?
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freeskicolorado
Jul 19, 2005, 2:35 AM
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Nope, we didn't make it to Little Falls, we decided to scrap it when we saw the forecast. This weekend looks good so far though, so I'll probably head down there both Sat and Sun (definitely Sun). If you don't have bigger and better plans, want to join?
YoCO
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climbingbetty22
Jul 19, 2005, 3:54 AM
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I would love to but I'm afraid I have to work all this weekend....gotta get some money for gas for the Gunks the next weekend!!!! :D
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freeskicolorado
Jul 19, 2005, 10:14 AM
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I think that counts as a better plan :D
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climbingbetty22
Jul 20, 2005, 3:30 AM
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YoCO! Where were you last night at RIT? I finally did that throw to the top on the green problem- woohoo!!! :D
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freeskicolorado
Jul 20, 2005, 12:27 PM
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I was doing things I've been putting off for far too long, such as laundry, dishes, cleaning my apartment, etc. And yes, that's a horrible excuse for not climbing. Congrats on the green problem!
-YoCO
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happiegrrrl
Jul 20, 2005, 2:17 PM
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Hey everyone -
I am doing the self rescue workshop this weekend (mentioned on Gunks.com homepage, with Mike Cimino). I'm going up Sat. morning and staying at the hostel. If anyone wants to get together for dinner, let me know.(Baccus is my favorite, so much so that I never try anywhere else....but certainly willing to.)
Is anyone else going to do the w/shop?
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taino
Jul 20, 2005, 2:31 PM
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I'll be in Rumney.
Have a great time; Mike Cimino is a really good guy, and knows his stuff. He can teach you a lot.
Make sure you study your knots, beforehand.
T
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jackflash
Jul 21, 2005, 2:58 AM
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I went to Little Falls on Monday and climbed at South Vietnam, a small crag across the railway by the cesspool (mmmm...aesthetics). It was mostly dirty and vegetated, but we found some good routes. I tackled a lead above my limits with the intent to push myself and get more comfortable falling on gear, but I ended up onsighting it. If only that happened everytime...
Today I told my graduate program that I wouldn't be with them anymore. I've been working towards a PhD in philosophy for the past year, but I realized that I was no longer interested in doing anything that such a degree would allow me to do. Always wanting to describe arguments as "bomber" probably didn't help feeling in-tune with acadamia, either.
So earlier this summer I applied late to a program in Recreation Resource Management at another university in town. I was offered admission last week for the fall and accepted it. Starting over is good.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 21, 2005, 3:15 AM
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Congrats!!!! It takes alot of guts to start all over. I hear ya though. For a long time I was convinced that I was going to go to grad school and get a Ph.D. In the end, spending the rest of my life in academia didn't appeal. I want to do something that had a more direct impact on people's lives. Hence, I'm here in chiropractic school. Sometimes I have a hard time believing that I'm going to get to do something I love, help people and be a doctor too! Now, if only I can figure out to get more time in climbing... :lol:
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freeskicolorado
Jul 21, 2005, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: Always wanting to describe arguments as "bomber" probably didn't help feeling in-tune with acadamia, either.
Hmm.... methinks once I get into the more advanced mechanical engineering courses, I'll need a great deal of restraint not to use "bomber" and "manky" when discussing the beta on various engineering systems.
Congrats on making the change and doing what you want with your life, and good luck!
-YoCO
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mowz
Jul 22, 2005, 12:14 PM
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Hi guys. I'll be in the Gunks in Oct. and was wondering if it's busy during that time; I'm looking to climb during the weekdays. Is Oct. a good time (weather-wise) for climbing in the Gunks? Is there a guide book that you would recommend for the Gunks? How's the camping, food situation, etc.?
I'll prolly be there early Oct. a few days after the Chicago Marathon.
Thank you.
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kimmyt
Jul 22, 2005, 12:29 PM
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Mowz, that's the best time for the Gunks! The colors and temps will be gorgeous and if you're there during the week you won't have nearly the crowds. Have fun and good luck in your Marathon!
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happiegrrrl
Jul 22, 2005, 12:57 PM
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On the 14 - 16th of October, rc.commers will have the 3rd Annual Pennsylvania Gunks Gathering. It's got a thread in the Events & Gatherings forum. You should come for that!
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mowz
Jul 24, 2005, 12:27 AM
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Thanks Kimmy and Happie. I don't know if I'll be staying long enough for the gathering. In addition, I don't like crowds much.
What about good guide books? Camping/Lodging? Food?
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climbingbetty22
Jul 24, 2005, 5:18 PM
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Geez, too bad my sister's wedding is October 15. Don't get me wrong, I love my sister and I am very happy to see her get married, but getting stuck in a big foofy dress and having every one of my relatives ask me, "so when are you going to get married?", isn't exactly my idea of a good time. :roll:
Anyway, completely off topic.
Mowz- Dick Williams just put out a new guide to the Trapps that is pretty darn cool and also has info about camping/lodging/food/natural history/climbing history/etc. If you're not local finding, it might be a bit difficult. I've checked several internet sites, REI, Moosejaw, etc. But they don't carry it. If you want to procure a copy of the guide in advance, probably the best avenue is to go to Rock and Snow's website(http://www.rocksnow.com) and order it from them. If however, you just want the straight up beta, feel free to post again and any number of us Gunks junkies will fill you in.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 26, 2005, 3:38 PM
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So, here it is, Tuesday already, and not a one of us has checked in to spray about what we did this last weekend. With the perfection in weather, maybe some have not yet crammed themselves back into their cubicles.....
For me, I had a really good time at the Gunks, doing the self-rescue workshop. I learned a lot, and now I need to practice, practice, practice.
I snagged some more blueberries for lunch too. Tasteee.....
Looking forward to this weekend, though I can only get out on Saturday.
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climbingbetty22
Jul 26, 2005, 4:44 PM
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Thank God Happiegirl! I was waiting for someone to post up. You'd think someone would be talking about weekend plans or looking for a partner for the weekend. But there our poor little thread sat with no new replies for several days. :(
After getting my ass handed to me about that whole mentor thing, I decided, you know those folks are right. I should just go out and learn stuff for myself. (Never a better time to experiment then when one's life hangs in the balance :roll: ) I don't need a mentor to hold my hand. So a friend of mine, who's also a new-ish leader, and I are going to be in the Gunks doing some easy leads and logging some mileage on the sharp end.
I'm hoping my pass will be here by then (I know I can get a temporary one, but the really thing is so much more stroke-worthy). I sent in my form a day or two ahead of my friend and he already has his. WTF? :shock: Its driving me nuts! I check my mail 3 times a day. I feel like Ralphie in A Christmas Story, waiting for my Little Orphan Annie decoder ring to show up. :lol:
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troutboy
Jul 26, 2005, 5:19 PM
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In reply to: Thank God Happiegirl! I was waiting for someone to post up. You'd think someone would be talking about weekend plans or looking for a partner for the weekend. But there our poor little thread sat with no new replies for several days. :(
I had a most excellent day mountain biking at Minnewaska State Park and the Preserve with a fellow Gunks.comer on Saturday. I have been climbing in the Gunks for over 10 years now and I never really explored more than the "common" climbing areas (Trapps, Nears, Millbrook, Lost City). The day included 28 miles of very nice double track, some bushwacking and gully hopping, a couple boulder problems, great views, refreshing dips at well-known watering holes, and a beer at Bacchus with some other rc.comers.
Sunday was another great day with some excellent climbing with a fun partner who climbed well. Although our crowd-avoidance stategy backfired, we still managed to get in a reasonable amount of quality climbing. It was nice to be back out on the rock after a very long (for me) layoff of over a month. Life was good.
I'm heading back up again this weekend and looking for a partner for Sunday and Monday.
Enjoy the upcoming weekend folks, be considerate at the crag, and climb safely.
T
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ryanv
Jul 26, 2005, 8:50 PM
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In reply to: After getting my ass handed to me about that whole mentor thing, I decided, you know those folks are right. I should just go out and learn stuff for myself. (Never a better time to experiment then when one's life hangs in the balance :roll: ) I don't need a mentor to hold my hand. So a friend of mine, who's also a new-ish leader, and I are going to be in the Gunks doing some easy leads and logging some mileage on the sharp end.
That's the spirit, way to break out on your own! It's hard to get enough leading in at the easier grades if you are always climbing with someone significantly more experienced than you. Of course, when you get the chance to go out with an experienced partner, it's always good to take it and observe what they do and listen to their advice. A nice mix of experienced and inexperienced partners is a good balance to advance in my gumby opinion.
Terrie- It was good seeing you out saturday. We ate at Murphy's instead of Bacchus because we were afraid of missing the bus. I think I'm going to make Murphy's my new New Paltz dinner spot. It's cheaper then Bacchus, the food is better and you can sit outside. Plus its closer to the bus stop so its easier to squeeze in that last beer! Who needs 100s of bottled beer to choose from anyway? I should be back up there for my usual saturday appearance. Maybe I will see some of you up there.
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feedmerocks
Jul 26, 2005, 8:57 PM
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In reply to: I had a most excellent day mountain biking at Minnewaska State Park and the Preserve with a fellow Gunks.comer on Saturday.
Ahh Tim, so that was you. Perhaps I shoulda gone... there's only so many times you can toprope the abyss at Lost City. You and Chris just missed Dana, he was going to meet you guys but he went riding in the other direction...
Nate
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feedmerocks
Jul 26, 2005, 9:14 PM
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So is anyone going up this weekend? I've been climbing with the same partner too much lately, I need a change of pace. And it looks like the weekend should bring low humidity! (Err, what am I saying, I mean it's going to rain thunder and hail ALL WEEK LONG stay away people...)
Also, I'm bouncing back and forth between Manhattan and Norwalk lately; would anyone like to check out Chelsea Piers with me?
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jackflash
Jul 27, 2005, 1:41 AM
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I was at Little Falls Saturday and Sunday. It was pretty casual. I spent both days on the Island with a short stop up to the Tier on Saturday.
I've been looking forward to a trip to Wallface, but my partner told me today while on our way to the Gunks that she didn't think her sore ankle could handle the approach (she fell off Absurdland a few weeks ago), so the trip looks like its set back a bit. Some time in August hopefully.
We dropped our packs in front of Retribution and both commented that it didn't look too hard. Ominous words. Some routes have that Siren quality about them, when you know they are going to be harder than they look and yet feel sucked in by their appearance regardless. I climbed easily up the corner, committed to the roof, and fell, hitting a small ledge on the way down. The route has an apt name. Lowering to a stance, I tried again, this time managing to latch a good hold and pull onto my feet. Despite feeling like I was going to pump out before placing gear on a few different occasions, it was a good route, with some tricky moves higher as well.
My parner led Classy, the variation to Classic, in fine style. Then we headed over to Pink Laurel, but only did the first pitch. To finish off the day we got onto RMC, which was a beautiful easy route. The last pitch was a fun cruise up a juggy face. Who doesn't love Gunks jugs?
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climbingbetty22
Jul 27, 2005, 3:36 AM
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If Wallface is a bust, you ought to come down and hang out in the Gunks!
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taino
Jul 27, 2005, 4:21 PM
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Spray?
Okay...
[spray]
Rumney all last weekend from Friday afternoon to Sunday midday; onsited my hardest lead to date (5.9), climbed my hardest route to date (5.10a); my partner and I logged 35 man-pitches total for the weekend with 23 of those being on Saturday; escaped - this time - without serious injury.
Yesterday, I completed, and passed, my AMGA TRSM course. Took only two attempts (apparently, no one passes the first time).
Looking to lead Snooky's Return, both pitches, this Saturday along with - hopefully - V3.[/spray]
I'm so tired...
T
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climbingbetty22
Jul 27, 2005, 6:04 PM
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Nice spray T
It's here everyone! My Mohonk Preserve pass is here!!! Just in time for this weekend!
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jackflash
Jul 27, 2005, 7:44 PM
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In reply to: Yesterday, I completed, and passed, my AMGA TRSM course.
Congrats. Did you do the course for a particular reason or figure it was just a good thing to have?
A friend of mine is doing that out in Colorado. I'm worried that he's going to come back and tell me how all my placements suck, my knots are worthless, and that I can't use my shoelaces as a rabbit runner.
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kimmyt
Jul 27, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Well, see, Tai already does that. :)
At least now he's got the paper to back it up.
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taino
Jul 27, 2005, 8:02 PM
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In reply to: Well, see, Tai already does that. :) At least now he's got the paper to back it up.
Nice. :roll: This, after assisting you in ground school. Ingrate. :P
Jack, I did it more for my own education than anything else; however, if I have the opportunity to work as a guide - even part time - I wouldn't turn it down. I enjoy teaching people and watching as they become competent in their own; it's a great feeling to have a hand in such things.
Let it be said that I only critique placements et al if it's requested. Kimmy. :P And there's nothing wrong with using your shoelaces as prusik lines, if that's what you've got. :)
T
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kimmyt
Jul 27, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Aw, now you know I'm just joshin'.
Tai=fount of knowledge (and he only made fun of my cam placements a little bit....but they deserved it!)
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dirtineye
Jul 27, 2005, 8:51 PM
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Lace your shoes with 3mm cord just in case you need emergency last ditch efforts prussics.
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ryanv
Jul 27, 2005, 11:15 PM
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Tai- nice job up at Rumney. Sounds like a sucessful trip.
In reply to: Looking to lead Snooky's Return, both pitches, this Saturday along with - hopefully - V3.[/spray] I'm so tired... T
I admire your pre-climb spray as well. That's too ballsy for me to emulate though. I wouldn't want to be held to account for all my midweek guidebook dreams for the upcoming saturday. I always get really brave/ambitious with my plans around wednesday or thursday...and then reality hits saturday morning. I know you'll send though and look forward to hearing about it monday or maybe over dinner on sat. evening. cheers.
Ryan
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climbingbetty22
Jul 28, 2005, 12:31 AM
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In reply to: I always get really brave/ambitious with my plans around wednesday or thursday...and then reality hits saturday morning.
Glad to know someone else does the same thing!
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taino
Jul 28, 2005, 4:26 AM
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In reply to: Tai- nice job up at Rumney. Sounds like a sucessful trip. In reply to: Looking to lead Snooky's Return, both pitches, this Saturday along with - hopefully - V3.[/spray] I'm so tired... T I admire your pre-climb spray as well. That's too ballsy for me to emulate though. I wouldn't want to be held to account for all my midweek guidebook dreams for the upcoming saturday. I always get really brave/ambitious with my plans around wednesday or thursday...and then reality hits saturday morning. I know you'll send though and look forward to hearing about it monday or maybe over dinner on sat. evening. cheers. Ryan
Well, I've been trying to get on Snooky's Return for a couple months, now, and V3 recetly got added to my tick list... if I can get on them, great; if there's line, oh well. Might as well do them when I have my favorite partner around; Adam is leaving for China/Japan for four months, starting next week.
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jackflash
Jul 28, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Are you planning on combining pitches on Snooky's, or just not doing the third pitch? There's a nice variation I found for the 3rd. Traverse left until the GT peters out and you'll be at a multiple left-facing corner/roof system. Follow these up and left until you are under a large roof--the same roof that Beginner's Delight avoids on the left. Turn this roof on the right at a corner/crack and follow the crack to the top.
It was short, easier than the other two pitches, and covered in that thick brown lichen, but there was an old pin and it had good climbing.
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taino
Jul 28, 2005, 5:59 PM
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I've never heard of there being a third pitch... perhaps I'll check it out.
T
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feedmerocks
Aug 1, 2005, 1:44 AM
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All right Tai, we're all waiting with bated breath:
How did Snooky's go?
(And V3. It's got less numbers to spray about, but it's harder in its way.)
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mowz
Aug 1, 2005, 1:46 AM
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So I was talking to someone about guides and was told that there are two guide books: the grey Dick that covers the Trapps and the Todd Swain book. The Swain book, as I was told, covers many areas but has poor route description. Is there a book that covers many areas with good topos and such?
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climbingbetty22
Aug 1, 2005, 4:10 AM
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So I just got back from a weekend in the Gunks. I've got say, I love that place!!!
It was a funny weekend because I ran into so many folks that I knew or that I knew of through rc.com. I met Tradrenn on the proch of the deli, jackflash after he nearly dropped an unannouced rope on my head, (shame one you!!! hehehe- I told you I was going to have to out you publically for that, but its all good :) ), shared a rappel with gblauer and mitchell, met tanio in the deli and wormly81 & cadaverchris on the good ol' porch as well.
My partners for the weekend were great and I had so much fun hanging out with them. Thanks Jules & GiggloJeff! (how could this guy not be a gigglo-- he got to spend the weekend climbing with two babes!)
Very good times were had all weekend and a special thanks to my partners in crime, whom I will allow to remain nameless unless they choose to identify themselves. :wink: We kept the Vulgarian spirit alive with a [violet]nude[/violet], night-time ascent of Shockley's Ceiling. :shock:
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freeskicolorado
Aug 1, 2005, 2:39 PM
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This weekend was only my second trip to the Gunks, but I already can't wait to go back.
Many thanks to CB22 and Jules for the belays, dealing with my fusterclucked rope, and the general good times. Enjoyed meeting wormly81, cracklover, gblaur, mitchel, taino, cadaverchris, and some of the other local New Paltz characters (most notably, Jim the Drunk.. all conversations at the Deli should include him). Followed CB22 on some nice climbing, and scared the crap out of myself leading some of the easy classics. I'm definitely a trad convert; after all, what's better than wimpering up climbs way under your physical ability? Apparently I "looked" good on them though, so at least I've got everybody fooled :)
Will be back next weekend, but just toproping at Peter's Kill... though I forsee myself venturing out to the Trapps again Sunday if I have the chance...
-Jeff
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feedmerocks
Aug 1, 2005, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: after all, what's better than wimpering up climbs way under your physical ability
Whimpering up climbs near the edge of your physical ability -- you asked.
I've whimpered and, yes, sketched up many of the Gunks "easy" classics. Most recently, I went up Gelsa and did the alternate traverse around to the Roseland bolts a little too high, and sketched due to the lack of hands when you do it that way.
Easy Gunks climbs (say, 5.6 and under) are just embarassing that way.
Sounds like you had a classic weekend, man. Good times.
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ryanv
Aug 1, 2005, 5:48 PM
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can't resist any longer....must spray:
I had a great day out Saturday with a new partner I met through the AMC. The weather was beautiful and the crowds were light in the High E buttress area. We managed to get in Moonlight, CCK, and High E. I got the onsight of both CCK and High E and managed to even stay on-route on the confusing 2nd pitch of CCK thanks to the improved descriptions in the grey Dick.
In some anti-spray news, I did manage to act like a total wuss underneath the High-E crux roof. After some reconnaissance I actually sat down on my butt under the roof and chatted with my belayer for 10 minutes or so before working up the courage to commit to "the move". Mentally its quite a trip to move out of that comfortable nook. Amazingly no one was behind us on High E so only my belayer was inconvenienced by my display of cowardice.
Oh and just to give my post some socially redeeming characteristics I will throw my 2 cents at Mowz guidebook question. Mowz- If you are just on a short trip to the gunks I would try to get a hold of the old Dick Williams Select guidebook as it covers the popular routes in the Trapps and the Near Trapps. I think it is out of print though. If you can't get that I would probably go with the Swain because you are going to want to do some routes in the Nears and the grey Dick is the Trapps only. If you are doing popular routes you can usually follow the chalk highway anyways so the Swain descriptions will probably suffice. If you think you will be making multiple trips to the gunks in coming years i would get both books then because the new grey Dick is great for the Trapps.
Now lets hear some more weekend spray out there-
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kimmyt
Aug 1, 2005, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: Now lets hear some more weekend spray out there-
I won 3 out of 5 games of Beirut, and managed to not lose my underwear. Twas a good weekend.
K.
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jackflash
Aug 1, 2005, 7:21 PM
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Other than an attempt on Christa's life it was a good day.
I have no spray, but my partners would have plenty. Gwen seconded her first climb--also the first time she's done multipitch. Becky led her first multipitch route (the second pitch of Betty) and then did her first multipitch in which she had all the leads (RMC). I got rope-gunned all day until I decided that Betty and RMC didn't have enough exposure and led up Strictly From Nowhere. Unfortunately Becky wasn't able to get through the roofs, and her sense of ethics precluded the use of the rope for assistance (it also ruled out clipping fixed pins and bolts as cheating--yikes!).
I was hoping to stay Sunday as well, but ended up heading to Syracuse. No worries: I'll be back to the Preserve tomorrow.
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 12:10 AM
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In reply to: All right Tai, we're all waiting with bated breath: How did Snooky's go? (And V3. It's got less numbers to spray about, but it's harder in its way.)
Alas, after getting on Son of Easy Overhang on Saturday - at around 1pm, in the brutal sun and heat - I opted to save Snooky's and V3 for another day. Instead, I finally (FINALLY!!!!) cleanly climbed Hertie Gertie - which is just getting slicker every time I make an attempt.
While Snooky's is a lovely route, Son of EO is lightyears better - IMHO.
It was excellent to meet CB22 and FreeSkiColorado, as well. Glad you guys enjoyed it, here. :)
T
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2005, 12:09 PM
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howdy folks, pardon me butting in on the NY climbers thread, had to respond to this...
In reply to: In some anti-spray news, I did manage to act like a total wuss underneath the High-E crux roof. After some reconnaissance I actually sat down on my butt under the roof and chatted with my belayer for 10 minutes or so before working up the courage to commit to "the move". Mentally its quite a trip to move out of that comfortable nook. Amazingly no one was behind us on High E so only my belayer was inconvenienced by my display of cowardice.
dude, don't feel bad, have you read my TR about leading High E? that one move took me a half dozen tries before I commited.
Accepting that you're afraid does not make a person a coward.
CB22, I know who your "vulgarian" partners were. ;-)
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ryanv
Aug 2, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Hey Rob,
I enjoyed your High E TR. Don't worry, I only would have felt bad about waffling under the High E roof if there was a line of people behind me I was holding up, which thankfully there wasn't. I think one of the reasons its so hard to commit to the move is there is no pressing reason to do so. You can easily down climb and bail, or comfortably sit under the roof for as long as you want. Its not like a bad stance and a sketchy down climb force you to continue on.
Ryan
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pjcozzi
Aug 2, 2005, 2:22 PM
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In reply to: I ... managed to even stay on-route on the confusing 2nd pitch of CCK thanks to the improved descriptions in the grey Dick.
Nice work, we got so off route on that pitch that the leader said it was harder than some 10a’s he’s done. The poor team under us took the same route.
Spray: I finally lead Shockley’s this weekend and have a picture to prove it: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n=Show&PhotoID=58579. Not a very good one but a picture none the less.
I also lead Triple Bulges (5.5) which is suppose to be PG but I swear there’s at least an 30 foot run out on some easy terrain between the first and second bulge. Anyone climb it before?
Patrick
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 2:58 PM
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Nice lead, Patrick.
When I attempted it, I had that gold camalot in the roof, the pin, and two back-ups for the pin just in case. *snicker*
T
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2005, 3:09 PM
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in that pic, are you above the roof?
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 3:30 PM
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Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above.
Doesn't look like much, does it? *snicker*
Much worse in person.
T
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climbingbetty22
Aug 2, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above.
I thought that first ceiling was the hardest, from there it was pretty easy.
Robbovious-- for the record, I read your TR in the Mass Climbers forum and I saw the little comment. Yes, it was at night. Yes, we were all naked. and Yes, I was even a bit drunk. But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll:
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2005, 5:00 PM
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In reply to: But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll:
CB22, the "high" comment was directed at another of your Shockley's party. ;-) BTW, nice to meet you, sorta, and, I hope, no hard feelings about the "...STFU so we can get some sleep..." ;-)
if we hadn't had an early-wakeup plan (which turned out to be unneccesary giventhe line we were in waiting for the route) I'd have enjoyed hanging out a bit later and having a few more beers.
in all honesty, when the event was related to us the next morning, I was in amazement at the nerve of you three, sounded like a real blast.
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pjcozzi
Aug 2, 2005, 5:38 PM
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In reply to: Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above.
Above the ceiling was easy until I exited the corner and saw the 2nd ceiling and crack above – that was pretty hard but well protected.
In reply to: Doesn't look like much, does it? *snicker* Much worse in person.
From the angle in the picture the ceiling looks deceitfully small but it’s the same ceiling in the popular naked Dick Williams poster. I guess it’s about 3 feet – one hell of a stretch to get the first hold above it.
Patrick
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taino
Aug 2, 2005, 5:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Yes, he is - just above the infamous "ceiling", but below the real business above. I thought that first ceiling was the hardest, from there it was pretty easy.
The first ceiling is difficult, but the second roof can be quite an unpleasant surprise to someone who thinks that, after pulling the first roof, the route is over.
When I seconded it, the leader pulled the first roof with aplomb - but fell at the second roof.
T
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cracklover
Aug 2, 2005, 6:51 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll: CB22, the "high" comment was directed at another of your Shockley's party. ;-) BTW, nice to meet you, sorta, and, I hope, no hard feelings about the "...STFU so we can get some sleep..." ;-) if we hadn't had an early-wakeup plan (which turned out to be unneccesary giventhe line we were in waiting for the route) I'd have enjoyed hanging out a bit later and having a few more beers. in all honesty, when the event was related to us the next morning, I was in amazement at the nerve of you three, sounded like a real blast.
You know, it's been bandied about so much, I guess I should pull together a TR. I'll have to finish with the pictures first, get everyone's okay on some slightly edited web-publishable versions of them, and get 'em up online. I'll make it a project for next week when I'm stuck on the shore.
Regarding the debate about the roofs, I seem to recall from earlier ascents of mine that the second roof felt harder. This time it all felt as smooth as silk. It's interesting going through a roof like that with zero exposure; in the dark, everything outside of the little square of light looks just the same.
GO
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climbingbetty22
Aug 2, 2005, 7:07 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: But I beg to differ on the score of being high. The only thing I was high on that night was LIFE. Wow, that was super cheesy. I can't believe I just wrote that. :roll: CB22, the "high" comment was directed at another of your Shockley's party. ;-) BTW, nice to meet you, sorta, and, I hope, no hard feelings about the "...STFU so we can get some sleep..." ;-) if we hadn't had an early-wakeup plan (which turned out to be unneccesary giventhe line we were in waiting for the route) I'd have enjoyed hanging out a bit later and having a few more beers. in all honesty, when the event was related to us the next morning, I was in amazement at the nerve of you three, sounded like a real blast.
No robbovius, no hard feelings. Without the gentle goading the get the fuck out, we may not have been pushed to do our daring ascent, so thanks!
It was a real blast. I'm looking forward to cracklover's TR and accompanying pictures (actually I'm just interested in seeing how he gets them past the mods). I'm actually surprised that it didn't seem to make much of ruckus when I sprayed about it on the thread. Not that that was my intent. Actually, I was suspecting that people would try to call bullshit on me. Meh. Oh well. I know the three of us had a blast while we were doing it and that we are all happy to have a wild and crazy story to tell. I like to tell folks thats my idea of a threesome! :wink:
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wawona
Aug 2, 2005, 10:23 PM
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has anyone seen d and c at the gunks lately or heard from them? those climbing sissy's must have gotten scared or something, oh i remember know their getting married to city girls
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wormly81
Aug 2, 2005, 11:05 PM
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A naked, drunken, nightime ascent of Shockleys in a rain shower? I'm glad you enjoyed your vulgarian baptism :)
Right on. Wheres those pics.
Jeff
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feedmerocks
Aug 2, 2005, 11:21 PM
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In reply to: I also lead Triple Bulges (5.5) which is suppose to be PG but I swear there’s at least an 30 foot run out on some easy terrain between the first and second bulge. Anyone climb it before? Patrick
You're quite right. In New Hampshire, where the trad climbs are given ratings with the easier runout in parenthesis, this would be graded 5.5G (5.3/5.4 X)
Yes, X.
IMO the overall rating should be 5.5X. You simply can't trust a 5.5 leader (and by that I mean, somebody who's truely pushing his/her limits on 5.5/5.6) not to fall on the 5.4 down below.
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pjcozzi
Aug 3, 2005, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I also lead Triple Bulges (5.5) which is suppose to be PG but I swear there’s at least an 30 foot run out on some easy terrain between the first and second bulge. Anyone climb it before? Patrick You're quite right. In New Hampshire, where the trad climbs are given ratings with the easier runout in parenthesis, this would be graded 5.5G (5.3/5.4 X) Yes, X. IMO the overall rating should be 5.5X. You simply can't trust a 5.5 leader (and by that I mean, somebody who's truely pushing his/her limits on 5.5/5.6) not to fall on the 5.4 down below.
It makes me a little nervous that a PG climb can have X parts and the guidebook mentions nothing of it. I guess Williams didn’t reclimb this one for his new book. He does provide extra gear information for some routes though. For example, one route near Madame’s G (I forget the name) goes at 5.7 PG but he says to make sure your comfortable soloing the 5.6 R section unless you are very creative placing at placing protection.
I also found a discussion on Triple Bulges protection as part of a larger thread at gunks.com.
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freeskicolorado
Aug 3, 2005, 2:20 AM
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I was a bit surprised too this weekend when I led Dennis (5.5G). There was a section mid-pitch that, even in my very limited experience, I'd call at least PG on 5.4ish terrain. Not a huge deal in this case, but rather surprising when I was expecting to be able to sew it up the entire way. Upon further examination of the new Williams guide, he does say that the protection ratings refer to the protection available at the crux and not necessarily for the rest of the climb. Some of the routes seem to have notes about runout sections, but not many of the easier grades have these noted it seems. Guess I'll just have to keep it in mind when picking out routes.
-Jeff
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jackflash
Aug 3, 2005, 2:28 AM
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In reply to: From the angle in the picture the ceiling looks deceitfully small but it’s the same ceiling in the popular naked Dick Williams poster.
That picture saved my ascent of the route. I blindly kept following the juggy holds on the second pitch until I was standing on top of a pillar, not realizing that I had gotten onto the last pitch of Shockley's Without. It wasn't until I was in the same spot as the picture was taken that I realized how off route I was. I sighed and had to downclimb to finish properly.
I went to the Preserve today and did Nosedive first thing before I lost my ambition. It was a very good route with a sustained but enjoyable crux.
My partner wanted to lead Raunchy, which she'd done before as a second. We decided to do both pitches. I got the dirty, runout, where-the-hell-am-I supposed-to-go-now one. Good thing 90% of it was under 5.3! Even then I contemplated bailing numerous times.
V3 was also on her list. She led the first pitch and flew up the 5.1 p2 to the GT. The Gray Dick adds a third pitch (which is actually the last pitch of PLEH!), so we did that too. Although I'm not sure how including a 5.8 pitch into a 5.7 climb makes sense, it did get us a direct line to the summit at least. It was an enjoyable roof, although short and a little contrived.
In the morning we heard that a guy decked on Frog's Head and was taken out in an ambulance. I'm not sure of the details, but the third-hand information was that he wasn't wearing a helmet and landed on his back.
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freeskicolorado
Aug 3, 2005, 2:53 AM
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In reply to: In the morning we heard that a guy decked on Frog's Head and was taken out in an ambulance. I'm not sure of the details, but the third-hand information was that he wasn't wearing a helmet and landed on his back.
Interesting... I did P1 of Frog's Head on Sunday and remember there being good gear the entire way. Anybody have any info on what happened? Hope he's alright.
-Jeff
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happiegrrrl
Aug 3, 2005, 2:26 PM
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No idea about any accident on Frog's Head, but -
I seconded on the climb this weekend and fell off fairly low(I have no problem admitting to being either A) a crappy climber or B) strong enough in character to admit I am a crappy climber!).
It was the first time I ever even looked at that climb, and though I was on second, it did seem to me to be a good, gear-eating crack. But, there is that little ledge-y thing jutting out below..... As I came off, I took a look down and my mind alerted me to the "incoming ledge." Had I not pushed my feet off the wall to evade it, I'd have hit. I was on stretchy double ropes and sailed right past the thing, but I suppose a person on lead may have still been able to make impact. I was very, very thankful that I had seen that ledge coming......
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 3:14 PM
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I'm thinking you slipped/fell at the polished bulge, right? Definitely a tricky move for its grade.
Regardless, heading to Keene Valley on the weekend. I’m taking an aid class on the Saturday, but have Sunday free, in case anyone wants to join up. Perhaps get on Quadraphenia.
Let me know.
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wormly81
Aug 3, 2005, 6:43 PM
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I got over to Minnewaska State Park for the first time on Monday and I was pleasantly surprised to see how nice it was. I took a childhood friend up to the rocks overlooking Minnewaska Lake and had a picnic on this wonderful diving board formation with a perfect bench seat at the end. She seemed rather interested as I explained the history of the land and surrounding area (emphasizing the importance of the rock climbing community of course). On the way back to the parking area I found a couple areas to scramble around while my friend followed, finding her own path of least resistance and enjoying the views.
After renting some shoes at the EMS (10 bucks... ouch!) we went over to Peterskill (same parking pass) and went to what I believe is the breakfast wall. It was a large arete formation with the right side facing 44/55. I moved our anchor about 4 times, dropping the rope on several interesting features by building anchors on a ledge system just below the top of the cliff.
With the bugs and heat demanding our retreat from Peterskill, we drove over to split rock and went for a dip. When theres not a hundred people there I love that place. We hiked up the Old Minnewaska trail for about 2 miles before turning around and running back. Take note: if you have a friend who is a runner and dont feel like revisiting your old track days dont take them hiking on nice carraige roads. It was obviously time to head to the deli.
When at first we were driving west from New Paltz, I pointed out the cliffs to my friend who commented "you mean you've climbed up those rocks there?" When I mentioned that I had she seemed a little perplexed with whether or not that was a good idea on my part. Now on the deck inbetween sips of dads new homebrew she was asking questions about what it would take for her to be able to accomplish the same. I can't think of a more pleasing situation than to introduce a good friend to one of my favorite places and get such enthusiasm and interest.
On another note, I have to thank my two good friends who shared the spectacular "Vulgarian Baptism" with me on, uhm... Sunday Morning. It is really refreshing to meet others with a well honed sense of adventure. Right on.
Jeff
PS Shakylegs: If I might ask, what outfit are you taking your aid class through?
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Rock and River.
They come highly recommended from a user on this board. And I'll be damned if I ever give money to EMS. Yeah, I said it.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 7:25 PM
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Not that I fault you, but I'm curious, what do you have against EMS shakey?
"Vulgarian Baptism." HA! Jeff- I love it!
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 7:35 PM
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The guides:
- Overpriced.
- Loud.
- Retrobolting trade routes.
- Distracting a belayer with beta while the leader is leading a thin traverse, only to spout, "oh, I've done that route so many times. Bla bla."
- Dropping ropes on parties below without warning.
-Lowering first-time climbers to a belay station. When said climbers arrive at belay (where, I forgot to mention, we were already anchored, thanks for asking, fuck-whit guide), they don't know how to secure themselves to the anchor.
I could go on, but I thought I would share what I saw in one day. I shit you not. Well, except for the retrobolting part. I don't climb at night when the retrobolting occurs.
Oh, and I'll make a deal with ya: if you don't call me skakey, I won't call ya bettey, mkay. ;)
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 7:48 PM
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In reply to: I don't climb at night when the retrobolting occurs.
You should try it sometime...climbing at night is fun.
In reply to: Oh, and I'll make a deal with ya: if you don't call me skakey, I won't call ya bettey, mkay. ;)
My bad...I just woke up from a nap... wasn't paying attention. :oops:
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shakylegs
Aug 3, 2005, 8:00 PM
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Hey, not knocking the climbing-at-night. It's the retrobolting-at-night-so-we-can-take-even-more-customers-up-this-route with which I disagree.
And you're forgiven for the typo. For now.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 10:12 PM
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Don't worry, I have some really great ways to procure an extra measure of forgiveness if need be. :twisted:
And hey, I didn't call you "skankey." :wink:
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cracklover
Aug 3, 2005, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: On another note, I have to thank my two good friends who shared the spectacular "Vulgarian Baptism" with me on, uhm... Sunday Morning. It is really refreshing to meet others with a well honed sense of adventure. Right on. Jeff
Right back atcha. 8^) It was a helluva good time.
I'd like to encourage all of you NY Climbers to embrace your dreams. What was so cool about the Vulgarians, and what can inspire us all, was not just their vulgarity, but how they embraced life, climbing, etc as an adventure to throw themselves into fully!
Life is either a daring adventure or it's nothing.
GO
Or as my sig puts it...
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cracklover
Aug 3, 2005, 10:50 PM
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And since this thread is officially in the "Partners" area...
Anyone curious to learn more about the whole Shockley's "Dick Williams Style" thing, feel free to PM me for beta.
GO
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climbingbetty22
Aug 3, 2005, 11:12 PM
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What? No trip report Gabe???
You've got to send me the pics of out ascent!!!
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freeskicolorado
Aug 3, 2005, 11:19 PM
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And you need to send me the other photos from this weekend (though they won't be nearly as exciting).
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kimmyt
Aug 3, 2005, 11:48 PM
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I only want to see pics if theres full frontal.
(and not from Christa, either, although I'm sure she's got a nice...rack)
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climbingbetty22
Aug 4, 2005, 2:40 AM
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Oh yeah, they're some that are full frontal :twisted:
YoCO- I've downloaded them. I'll pick out the better ones and send them to you. But I've got study for right now!
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cracklover
Aug 4, 2005, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: What? No trip report Gabe??? You've got to send me the pics of out ascent!!!
Patience! I can't work on this at the office, for obvious reasons.
In reply to: I only want to see pics if theres full frontal. (and not from Christa, either, although I'm sure she's got a nice...rack)
Hahahaha! I doubt you really mean that. Let's see, what do they say on the match-maker sites - a pic for a pic? Hahahaha!
GO
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climbingbetty22
Aug 4, 2005, 12:59 PM
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In reply to: Hahahaha! I doubt you really mean that. Let's see, what do they say on the match-maker sites - a pic for a pic? Hahahaha!
Haha! That's my Gabe, always trollin' :twisted:
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happiegrrrl
Aug 5, 2005, 3:53 PM
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I can't take it anymore - I have to announce it to the world!!!
On Sunday, I am going to pick up my brand new(very old), stylee dirtmobile!!! A grey, 1987 Toyota 4wd minivan, bought from another member on this site.
I have not had a car in almost 20 years, but man...those were the days. Road trips in my orange and black Sattelite Sebring. I am looking so forward to making lots of memories in this van.
Curt is coming up to visit me next week, and after we spend a couple days creating a microcamper, we are heading to the Gunks till 8/16. This is the first time I will really get a chance to explore the area too, and am looking forward to doing as much as can be done in such a short time.
Now....the big question......and I know this is a pretty big favor to ask....is for the lowdown on camp spots where one could park and have a little patch of land.......
I know about the MUA and Camp Slime, but man.....when we camp down where Curt is, in the Vanagon, it's so....luxe. We find a camp spot, pull over and set up a tent (a/k/a the "gear shed") and have it made. Even a solar shower..... Here, we're going to only have my little tent for storeage of all the crap that I insist must be part of the camping experience. We'll be dozing in the van. The idea of schlepping cookwear/food, and all the stuff back and forth....I suppose it will have to be done.
Unless......unless there is a better way.......
I am aware of the "other" place to camp, and will check into it. I understand there has been some brouhaha from the local ordinance-types, so I won't mention further in this post. I have the instructions as to the location, but don't know if they are still able to allow visitors. Any info, please PM rather than post, as I don't want cause dificulty for them.
And finally..... Yes, I am aware that I am asking to be exempt from the rules.....If anyone has any info, please PM me. If anyone wants to flame, please post in the thread. makes for fun reading, imo!
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shakylegs
Aug 5, 2005, 3:57 PM
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The "other" place? You're not talking about the barn, are you?
If not, never mind.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 5, 2005, 7:04 PM
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Happie- If by "the other" place you mean the TG, I know of some folks who camped there last weekend. Should be OK.
Congrats on the climbingmobile. I'm hoping to acquire one sometime soon as well. Where are you going to park that thing in Manhattan?
Oh yeah, I had a giggle the othe weekend when I saw your sign for a dog sitter on the kiosk at the Uberfall. Have you found anyone yet?
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happiegrrrl
Aug 9, 2005, 12:46 PM
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I don't know what is "the barn" or "TG" - so if you guys can advise, please do. By thread if the places are "legal" or PM if they are more private.....
I picked up "Junior" (this is the name I have picked for the van, because he's more petite than "the big red behemoth" which I think is what Curt calls his Vanagon) on Sunday, and though I am having some anxiety issues about the $$ it will cost to feed and house the kid, I am very excited to have adopted him!
Today we are going to start working on building the platform/storage space. I will be having pictures.....
I am still working on finding care for Teddy - procrastination is a vice I fall prey to regularly, unfortunately.
We will be coming up to the Gunks on Thursday afternoon, if things go as planned. Staying til either Tuesday night or Wednesday morning.
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cracklover
Aug 15, 2005, 2:49 PM
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Been quiet around here lately. To wake y'all up out of your stupors, hope you like a TR I just finished. It's of a night ascent of Shockley's Ceiling at the Gunks a few weeks back. It's kind of long, but there are photos to break it up a little. Here it is.
GO
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taino
Aug 15, 2005, 3:42 PM
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Considering that it's been 1) raining heavily, or 2) so bloody humid that everything is grease (except, of course, for climbers as strong as you, Gabe), I'm not surprised that things are quiet.
Can't wait for the frikken "dog days" of summer to be over. I'd rather have climbing weather and have to carry a headlamp, than long days where I grease off everything.
T
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gunked
Aug 15, 2005, 3:49 PM
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Great job on Shockley's nude!
I find that one of the keys to climbing naked is carrying a VERY light rack.
Last fall (late Oct.) we tried doing Beginner's delight naked. It was the last good warm spell before the winter started kicking in. I Took a basic set of nuts :roll: , four tri-cams, and four cams(clipped to the rear loops!) for pro. Dave wouldn't let me wear a helmet as it would "taint the ascent". Luckily he allowed the chalk bag!
I got up to the first ledge (maybe 25 -30 feet up) and noticed that I was completely surrounded by yellow jackets. :shock: I looked up to see if climbing past them was an option. NOPE!
Every sun-lit area of the wall was completely covered in yellow jackets. Apparently, this was their last hoorah before the winter. As a result (lucky for me!) they were moving pretty slowly.
Strangely, I started feeling VERY exposed on that ledge!
Yeah...I backed off as quickly and gently as possible. There was a small tree to my left that allowed me a nice, gentle, and QUICK rappel.
Just thought I'd share with you a somewhat related story!
Yes...there are pics. No...they're not very good! Mostly ass shots!
-Jason :D
P.S. - Terrie - How's Junior treating you? Did you guys get nailed in that storm yesterday evening? We just finished the first two pitches of Directissima and Dave was leading out the overhang on the last pitch of High E when all hell broke loose. I don't remember ever seeing that much lightning in that short amount of time. Yeah...we bailed!
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cracklover
Aug 15, 2005, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: Great job on Shockley's nude!
Thanks!
In reply to: I find that one of the keys to climbing naked is carrying a VERY light rack.
I found that one of the keys to climbing naked is that after a long rappel, when you pop the rope out of your rappel device, catch that sucker before it swings down and burns the bejesus out of you!
GO
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taino
Aug 15, 2005, 4:07 PM
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Indeed, Gabe - excellent TR. You fainting flower, you. :D :twisted: :lol:
That "burning sensation" is precisely why I extend the rappel device, instead of having it on my belay loop. Once, was quite enough. :shock:
T
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gunked
Aug 15, 2005, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: I found that one of the keys to climbing naked is that after a long rappel, when you pop the rope out of your rappel device, catch that sucker before it swings down and burns the bejesus out of you!
Yeah...that too! :lol:
In reply to: That "burning sensation"
Tai, you might wanna get that checked out :wink:
-Jason :D
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gunked
Aug 15, 2005, 6:14 PM
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Okay...where do you find all these damn smileys?
S&M smileys. What more could you ask for?
-Jason :D
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lockeyaaron
Aug 15, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Ok Ladies and Gents the D&C crew is back online and back in NY. We will be back in the Gunks this weekend (the 19th). Anyone that is going to be down there we will be in our usual spot, come find us and we might have a beer for you.
CB22, heard from Dirt at all? Is he able to get out and around yet? Would there be any chance that you are going to be down there this weekend?
Wowona, you need to get off your lazy ass and get up to NY. Sorry that none of us made it out there over leave but the whole crew will be there this weekend. See you there!!!
The Rev.
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gunked
Aug 16, 2005, 7:00 PM
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Out of curiousity...
Did anybody else get nailed by that storm Sunday evening? I've never seen lightning with such frequency. At least one per second. May partner had just pulled the roof on High E when all hell broke loose. He bailed off of a nut and we rapped the High E station with great speed. Thank god the rope was soaked so we didn't damage the sheath.
On the other hand:
In retrospect (and after talking to a couple of friends in the know), we should have stripped our gear off and stashed it on one side of the ledge while we waited out the storm. This would have been preferable to rapping a wet rope and turning ourselves in to the most positively charged things in the area attached to a super conductor that was my soaking wet rope. :shock:
Live and Learn!
Anybody else have a story from that night?
-Jason :D
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shakylegs
Aug 16, 2005, 8:35 PM
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Sounds scary. Did you guys have packs (with stays removed) to sit on? I would thing the High E ledge would be the best place to wait out the storm.
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gunked
Aug 17, 2005, 2:08 AM
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It was pretty exciting!
No packs or anything. They wouldn't have been necessary. It would DEFINITELY have smarter to wait it out on the High E ledge with the gear off to one side.
-Jason :D
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happiegrrrl
Aug 17, 2005, 10:58 PM
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Junior is so fun! I am having a great time with him. The conversion to a camper took a lot longer than expected, due to NYC parking regulations and my complete lack of tools.... We were still making the thing 2 days into the trip, while we camped in the MUA......
Here are just a few pics:
Prepping for the conversion:
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1000006.jpg
Only in NY, could you do woodwork on the street and have people walking past as if it were completely the norm.....
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1000008.jpg
Myself, enjoying the freshly created platform. It sits low, with about 10 inches of space underneath. Some might sacrifice headroom for more storage space, but it was important to me that I feel comfortable while sleeping and hanging out. As is, I can sit up fully without any problems, and there is actually quite a bit of room for the storage......as long as I don't become some sort of gear junky...... Oh, and that's Teddy, my Jack Russel Poodle. Curt gave him a mohawk, and dyed it purple with a blackberry....
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1600011.jpg
We used one of the pieces of 3/4 inch plywood that you gave me to make a little work table, too(the one that had the hinge running along the side). Just screwed some 2 by 4's onto the hinge - add rocks to stabilize/level, and - voila!
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1700012.jpg
Also, notice the mesh screens - Curt was very happy with his idea.....He had bought mesh for his Vanagon's windows and had a lot left. So he went to work doing the same for Junior, and then realized that the ridge running all along the perimeter could act as a trap. We took 3mm accessory cord, ran it around the edge and through some duct tape loops on the screen, then tightened the cord and hitched it under tension. Did a similar thing on the side door, though not with the cord. As breezy as any tent could be!
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happiegrrrl
Aug 17, 2005, 11:05 PM
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As for the storm on Sunday - we got out in the nick o' time! We had just done the first pitch of Oscar and Charley linkup, and it was getting dark enough that we needed to head out, as we had Teddy with us and didn't want to leave him on the ground waiting for us. Curt wanted me to show him another climb that has historically "vexed me," but thank god I held my ground! More out of fear he'd have me lead the thing in the dark, I insisted we couldn't leave my poor pup alone while we did another pitch, and down the trail we headed.
The rain began the moment I put the key in the van's doorlock, and we felt pretty relieved to not be caught in it. As we headed back to camp - the rain gods let go with it. Wow......
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happiegrrrl
Aug 17, 2005, 11:11 PM
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Does anyone know the name/details of this line(the obvious "chimney type feature" with the blocks set inside it)? It is at Peterskill, toward the end on the east side of the cliffs. It is after the Golden Dreams area, and a little bit before the tunnel.
I spotted it last time I was out there and thought it looked like fun. Not in the guidebook, so I was even more intrigued, though it is obviously a decent climb, and so I'm sure it's been climbed.
Anyway, on our first day, we went to Peterskill and Curt made me go first thing to "see the line" I'd emailed him pictures for. He insisted I lead it(which I had said I'd wanted to do, so why I got chicken when the time came is pretty silly....but - with a lot of whining and fear, I got up clean. I was pretty damed pleased with myself, I have to admit! He joked that my lead was an onsight w/BM (bitching and moaning....).
It really is a great little climb, with lots of fun, thoughful and committing moves. I went up to the left side of the blocks and then crossed right just above the large block under the dihedral, and then up the right dihedral to top out. Originally I had thought to go up the entire right side, but we discussed strategy and I took Curt's suggestions. He also followed to the left, but crossed right under the large block instead of atop it.
The dihedral is quite fun, after a bit of a strenuous cimbing to gain that large block, and if the thing was longer, it would be a damned fine line. It's fairly sustained and even for the grade throughout, though there is an obvious crux, and some "Phew, thanks - don't mind if I do!" holds near the top.
We are guessing it goes 5.7....... anyone with some info? It would be appreciated.
This is the bottom:
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-7-1600022.jpg
This is the top:
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-7-1600038.jpg
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gunked
Aug 18, 2005, 12:24 AM
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Terrie,
Thanks for the pics! I'm psyched that you're having so much fun with "Junior". The modifications look awesome. You'll have alot of fun with the van.
Congrat's on the lead! Looks like fun.
Don't let Curt bully you around too much! :roll:
Did you get the pics from Wojtec?
-Jason :D
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lockeyaaron
Aug 19, 2005, 4:17 PM
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Ok all, this is going to be your last chance to see all the guys of D&C climbing. It looks like this weekend is going to be the farewell tour for whole crew. With one married, two moving away, and who knows what those Bean brothers are doing this could be the last weekend that they get to climb together. So if you have never experienced a weekend with these guys get to the MUA in the Gunks for a time to remember (or forget depending on how much they drink). The camp fire will be raging, the beer will be cold, and the bottles will be getting passed around. If you are more interested in climbing than you are drinking, well I guess they might do a little of that too. They will leave messages on the Uber Falls message board telling anyone who cares where they are going to be.
If we dont see you this weekend, farewell!!
Doobs
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dirtineye
Aug 21, 2005, 1:16 PM
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Ah, Junior.
A nice little van with a lot of room and 4wd.
And a new sleeping platform with storage underneath, and mesh covers for all vent windows and the back hatch, with side door mesh cover in final form to follow.
Happiegrrrl has it made now-- she can just park anywhere and be self sufficient, haha!
Teddy, AKA Tedwick, the never-been-out-of-the-city NYC dog, turned out to be a natural climbing/camping/woodsy dog. Though confused at first about where to pee, he adapted quickly to bushes, got to eat grass, and found his life-long dream come true-- real dirt to make a little lie down spot for himself. Tedwick had a great time at Rock & Snow with his purple mohawk.
Happiegrrrl got two more solid leads in, buth clean, one at 5.7, one at 5.5. She's making good progress, especially for the short time she's been climbing and limited access to the cliffs (nowq remedied by Junior!).
Now if the dog just had a climbing harness...
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dirtineye
Aug 21, 2005, 1:22 PM
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BTW, Happiegrrrl's PC is dead, stupid Microsoft, so until she can re-install or recover, she's having to log in from coffee shops and such.
There are a lot of great pics of the van platform building I'm sure some of you would be interested in.
This whole thing was done with a japanese hand saw, a 1/2 inch sheet of ply wood, some 2x4's (could have been smaller but that's what they gave us), a 1.5 inch chisel, Elmer's carpentry glue, a speed square, an L-square, a tape measure, 4 small bar clamps, lots of screws, and a Ryobi 18 volt cordless drill.
And a little southern redneck engineering, hehe.
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gunked
Aug 21, 2005, 2:11 PM
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dirtineye,
I never put 2 and 2 together long enough to realize that you are the Curt that Terrie speaks so highly of! Good to put a face (and screenname) with the name.
Poor Terrie with the FU'd PC! :(
Yeah, nice modifications! How often are y'all(southern redneck speak :wink:) coming up this way. I'd love to check it out.
I noticed the japsaw in the photo. Time for cordless saw? I used to use a japsaw in the days of fine cabinetry. Though, I couldn't imagine what a royal pain in the ass it would be to do all of my cutting with one.
What climbs did she lead? If they're out in Peterskill, don't bother with names. As far as the dog goes, that reminds me of a trip to NRG about 10 years ago where we went to Summersville on a rainy day. We rigged harnesses on two 70lb german shepherds to be able to safely carry them down the wet ladders. They didn't look too comfy! :roll:
I'm off to get my rack together. It's a beautiful day, if not too hot and humid. The sun's been out for the last couple of hours and the rock should be dry soon. Hope your climbing today.
Nice job on the purple mohawk! :wink:
catch ya later,
Jason :D
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dirtineye
Aug 22, 2005, 12:28 AM
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fat and sassy, I think, down at the end of the nears, 5.5 but I made her pull a harder variation hehe. The 5.7 wwas that thing in the pic from peters kill.
Couldn't afford a cordless saw, and that jap saw was about as good as anything really.
Maybe I'll be up in October, but I'm sure Terrie will be out your way before then.
Might need your advice on where to attach an angle iron to the top of the platform and the car for safety.
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gunkiemike
Aug 22, 2005, 2:01 AM
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Terrie, I've climbed that line a couple times. It's a nice STEEP aggressive bit of climbing. Maybe not quite 5.7, but if that's what it felt like onsighting it, I won't dicker over numbers.
Remember, I have more heavy plywood if you need it.
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lockeyaaron
Aug 22, 2005, 3:32 AM
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Another great weekend in the gunks for the D&C crew. Rain on Sat. but we still got some climbing in. Today was beautiful but couldnt climb for as long as we wanted to due to a long drive home. We want to say thanks to Karen for coming out and having a beer and getting on the rocks with us today, hope to see you again real soon.
Bean, Sprouty, hope you guys made it home alright, we have a big concert in two weeks and I would hate for you to miss it due to you both being idiots and trying to drive and sleep at the same time.
Oh one more thing...ITS FIVE O'CLOCK AND ALL IS WELL!!!!!!!!!!
edited due to drunkeness
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dirtineye
Aug 22, 2005, 1:04 PM
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In reply to: Terrie, I've climbed that line a couple times. It's a nice STEEP aggressive bit of climbing. Maybe not quite 5.7, but if that's what it felt like onsighting it, I won't dicker over numbers. Remember, I have more heavy plywood if you need it.
She did onsight it, and probably took the harder more balancy technical way. It was a solid lead, with plenty of whining and moaning.
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jackflash
Aug 22, 2005, 1:17 PM
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I got a late start Sunday to let the rock dry at Little Falls. We began across the tracks, where, including us, there were about 15 people climbing. Last season it was rare to see anybody else. Perhaps this site is taking its toll. Regardless, one group spent too much time hanging out around the tracks, prompting a railway worker to drive out to talk to them. He mentioned wonderful things like Homeland Security and calling the cops. So remember, if you climb across the tracks, have enough sense to appreciate that its private land and that we want the railroad to view us as a curiosity rather than a nuisance.
I led one of my favorite routes there, which I hadn't been on since April. It felt ridiculously more difficult than I remembered it being. We moved on to top-roping some remaining lines that I'd never done, and they ended up being much better climbs than they looked from the ground, although they were still dirty.
We finished the day on the Island. I wore a metal splint on my finger to protect a pulley, which made everything much harder than I wanted it to be, but at least it let me climb.
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gunked
Aug 22, 2005, 1:25 PM
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In reply to: Might need your advice on where to attach an angle iron to the top of the platform and the car for safety.
I'm assuming that you're talking about the bed's underneath attachment to the van. If that's the case, I'll just tell you what I did:
I had two 2X4's running horizontally the length of the bed on one side and slightly past the sliding door opening on h te other side. I used hex-head metal screws to attach them to the van's frame. For extra security, I had about four short 2X4 legs(per side) that were toe-screwed to under side of the main studs to take the weight of the bed frame should the screws fail.
I attached joist hangers to the 2X4's and put in joists. 3/4" plywood bed frame was in 4 pieces on top of that. On the front end (near sliding door) part of the bed frame was on a piano hinge with a fold out leg so that I had a place to chill and cook in the rain. When the bed was completely down, it fit a full-sized futon quite comfortably.
It was overkill, but super-sturdy!
I hope that answered your question. If not, please be more specific.
-Jason
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happiegrrrl
Aug 24, 2005, 3:15 PM
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In reply to: Terrie, I've climbed that line a couple times. It's a nice STEEP aggressive bit of climbing. Maybe not quite 5.7, but if that's what it felt like onsighting it, I won't dicker over numbers. Remember, I have more heavy plywood if you need it.
Hey Mike -
Thanks for your information. It definitely felt like 5.7 to me....but what do I know!? Including this climb, I have only 6 leads under my belt, and the one rated 5.7(Box Lunch, at Palisades down south) I fell repeatedly on at the crux. Still, I did have fun on this one, and feel really good that I ame upon it, took a look and saw it would go, all without the help of that little blue book..... How exciting, to discover all the little nuances without the understanding that someone, if not many, had already been there/done that! (I figured that if anyone would know that line, it would be you, and was going to PM you, but my computer is out of business these days.)
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happiegrrrl
Aug 24, 2005, 3:20 PM
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Also, I am heading to the Gunks on Saturday this weekend, late afternoon. If anyone needs a ride, I'm leaving from Chelsea area of NYC. I'm staying over till Monday morning, heading back to NYC about 9:30am.
I am helping with trail work on Sunday morning, but by about 3pm will be in search of someone to climb with. I know it's a bit of an oddball partner request.....but maybe somebody else will want to do the volunteer work too, and head out for climbing afterwards....? )It's FUN, trail work, and very cool to help to maintain the area for all those who travel there.....
Anyone want to climb Sunday afternoon, send me a PM.
Terrie
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sprouty
Aug 24, 2005, 7:42 PM
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yo thanks for the great weekend and know that you guys will be gone and leaving lonely giz behind with a wife is troubling for the bean (DNK) brothers; getting him out the sack to go climbing/tour guide for us looks to be at an end.
the drive home? what drive? we drove? oh shit I drove!!!
see you all at moe fest and yes there will def be another all's well...all night long!! ROLL OUT
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kimmyt
Aug 24, 2005, 7:49 PM
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is that english?
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shakylegs
Aug 24, 2005, 8:09 PM
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I think that's SoCal American.
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freeskicolorado
Aug 24, 2005, 9:43 PM
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I think I'm gathering that he spent the weekend hanging out with the D&C Crew. If so, that's actually surprisingly coherant.
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lockeyaaron
Aug 24, 2005, 10:58 PM
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GD right he spent it with the D & C crew. And man you should have been there, probably one of our crasiest and definitly out most obnoxious trips do date.
Rev.
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lockeyaaron
Aug 24, 2005, 10:59 PM
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GD right he spent it with the D & C crew. And man you should have been there, probably one of our crasiest and definitly our most obnoxious trips to date.
Rev.
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mountainman
Aug 28, 2005, 3:40 AM
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MM is on the road, and after seriously moving, will be ready and eager to climb da Gunks Tuesday, August 30.
The only way to contact me is 412 736 0896.
Justa lookin for a climb, justa lookin for a climb.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 28, 2005, 7:52 PM
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In reply to: GD right he spent it with the D & C crew. And man you should have been there, probably one of our crasiest and definitly our most obnoxious trips to date. Rev.
I'm very sorry that I missed it and I'm sure Dirt is as well. Dirt is still where we last left him- as a guest of the state in Albany. I've received a few calls from him lately. He's definitely jonesing to get back out on some rock.
As for myself, I'm very sorry I couldn't make it guys, but as last I was there in spirit. I was doing plenty of drinking and climbing in Colorado!!!
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dirtineye
Aug 28, 2005, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Might need your advice on where to attach an angle iron to the top of the platform and the car for safety. I'm assuming that you're talking about the bed's underneath attachment to the van. If that's the case, I'll just tell you what I did: I had two 2X4's running horizontally the length of the bed on one side and slightly past the sliding door opening on h te other side. I used hex-head metal screws to attach them to the van's frame. For extra security, I had about four short 2X4 legs(per side) that were toe-screwed to under side of the main studs to take the weight of the bed frame should the screws fail. I attached joist hangers to the 2X4's and put in joists. 3/4" plywood bed frame was in 4 pieces on top of that. On the front end (near sliding door) part of the bed frame was on a piano hinge with a fold out leg so that I had a place to chill and cook in the rain. When the bed was completely down, it fit a full-sized futon quite comfortably. It was overkill, but super-sturdy! I hope that answered your question. If not, please be more specific. -Jason
jason,
I was thinking of angle irons on all the legs, one fore and aft and one L to R, into the floor, and taking a metal cutting disk on the drill to the seat mounting thingy closest to the sliding door.
Do you think that seat mounting hickey has any other function? I'd hate to cut off the top and have the drive shaft dropp off or something, hahaha!
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gunked
Aug 29, 2005, 1:42 AM
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Curt,
That seat mounting thingy is just that. Nothing should drop off (I hope :?) I tried getting at the bolts underneath with no luck. I remember them being 'spinners'. I also remember stuff being in the way underneath while trying to hold it(bolt) from that side. You're probably gonna want to remove the carpeted masonite floor and THEN attack it. I forget how, but you'll figure it out!
I never had the gumption to take a cutting disk to it. I'm sure it'll work, but it will take some work! :wink:
Good luck!
-Jason :D
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taino
Aug 29, 2005, 2:10 PM
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Fuckin' rain.
Fuckin' clueless meteorologists.
Fuckin' POS tent.
That is all.
T
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happiegrrrl
Aug 29, 2005, 3:07 PM
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Poor Teddy.....
I had given him a blue dye job on the mohawk, thinking he'd be all dandified and spectacular, and Sunday morning when he came back from his pee.....his head was ALL blue!!!
I had to chop the hawk, and he still had a greenish tint face the whole day. We just called him Gumby......
I had my rain gear, and got to hike spots I'd never been too, and I found this really interesting sort of "growth" coming out of a dead tree stump. It looked like feathers, and was white, bright red and purple! I have pictures, but the pc is still in need of cpr, so....until then, the photos are in the camera.
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lockeyaaron
Aug 29, 2005, 9:23 PM
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In reply to: I found this really interesting sort of "growth" coming out of a dead tree stump. It looked like feathers, and was white, bright red and purple! I have pictures, but the pc is still in need of cpr, so....until then, the photos are in the camera.
You should have tried a little bite, or maybe made some tea out of it. I am sure that would have made the rest of the day really fun!
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gunked
Aug 30, 2005, 2:11 PM
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Mmmmmmmmmm...random growth tea....My Favorite!
-Jason :D
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happiegrrrl
Aug 30, 2005, 8:52 PM
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......hallucinogens weren't my cup o' tea even back in the day when I had a ticket to ride..... I sort of always felt I'd end up like that person in the stories who tripped into believing they were an orange, and never came out of it.
But, for the more brazen.....this is what I saw. I suppose it would definitely brew up something interesting! Seriously, I had a hard time believing this was a natural organism. There was a second one on the other side of the log, a bit lower, and I thought maybe someone had threaded an old rope or something through. Pretty though, isn't it?
http://img.photobucket.com/...iegrrrl/07f7d7b7.jpg
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kimmyt
Aug 30, 2005, 9:50 PM
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Someone stuck this girl in that tree!
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gunkiemike
Aug 30, 2005, 11:59 PM
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That is indeed old kernmantle rope. It was used a lot 10-20 years ago to close off sensitive and eroding slopes.
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happiegrrrl
Aug 31, 2005, 1:15 AM
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...well....now I feel stupid! But, I guess I learn something new every day. The colors sure haven't faded, though, if the thing is that age.
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kimmyt
Aug 31, 2005, 2:27 AM
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I still think my explanation was better...
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seek7
Aug 31, 2005, 2:52 AM
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If it makes you feel better happiegrrrl, your mistake made my day. And I have to say I've wondered more than once how the rope ended in there. There's a rock stuck in a tree in front of Moxie that has stupified me as well, for what that's worth.
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happiegrrrl
Aug 31, 2005, 4:09 AM
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eh, the way I see it (or, am going to insist on seeing it, anyway!) is that I am simply a romantic, seeing the world through a perspective where an old rope becomes a magic mushroom.....surely the type of person who would be fun to spend a day climbing with..... speaking of which, I will be in search of a partner for Saturday, if anyone is interested.
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mountainman
Aug 31, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Trip report, on a non drug related topic.
I found Jeff the Climber on the New York Climbers Forum for Tuesday at the Gunks. However, itr was going to rain, so we met Monday at 8PM at the Deli
We only had his headlamp, so he would lead with it, then I'd lower him off, take the light, follow and rap off. We did Horseman, Laurel and Rhododenron. It was amazing fun.
Without visual cues, here was no sense of exposure, . It was harder to see foot placements. Better to stick to fairly easy climbs for night climbing.
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gunked
Aug 31, 2005, 1:31 PM
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In reply to: Someone stuck this girl in that tree!
How in the world did you come up with that link???
Where do people find this incredibly obscure $hit?
And YES, you're explanation is definitely better than Mike's!
-Jason :D
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kimmyt
Aug 31, 2005, 1:52 PM
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:)
google purple + white + hair
tada.
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gunked
Aug 31, 2005, 4:16 PM
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DUH!!!
:roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
-Jason :D
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lockeyaaron
Sep 1, 2005, 5:53 PM
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Anyone else headed to moe.down this weekend. If no one has plans and is into listening to some good music, here's the lineup.
Keller Williams
Medeski, Martin and Wood
The Violent Femmes
North Mississippi Allstars
Matisyahu
The Redwalls
Hackensaw Boys
Before Cowboys
Theresa Andersson Group
Tea Leaf Green
RAQ
Addison Groove Project
The Breakfast
Big Frog
Dread Clampitt
Jomama and the Funkdaddy's
For more info go to www.moe.org
Doobs
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jackflash
Sep 5, 2005, 9:01 PM
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I spent Saturday and Sunday at Poke-O Moonshine. I've lived in New York for a little over a year now and this was only my second time to the Dacks and the first time I've climbed there.
We left the campground before anyone else and started up Gamesmanship, a nice mixture of handcracks, a blocky sill, and beautiful, easy slab. We were glad to get an early start, as the line formed behind us as soon as I reached the first belay. We weren't sure if there was a rap route that could be done with a single 60, so we had a nice hike across the top and down a huge eroded dike.
Rain that night was a little disheartening, but everything was dry the next day. No other parties were stirring as we casually broke camp, so we easily got on another classic, FM, before anybody else. FM required delicate technique, both in its crux moves and in making sure the holds were solid, as there was loose rock on every pitch. The incredible fourth pitch climbed a huge hollow flake in a dihedral, then traversed the top of the flake out towards an arete and up across a grass slope to the belay.
We did a handful of single pitch routes as well on both days. My partner doesn't lead, so I got to be on the sharp end for everything.
I had hope to do Fastest Gun, which is supposed to be a phenomenal route, but I took one look at the crux moves from high on Gamesmanship and decided to put it off for another time. It was wet...that's my excuse, right?
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 6, 2005, 2:19 AM
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Well folks, my term of incarceration in northern NY is quickly coming to an end! after three months of hell, I will soon rejoin yall on the mountain bistro pourch, New Castle in hand. All of you who know me know where I can be found: sitting at the base of the Mac Wall chain smoking camal filters between wheezing my way up the wall. GOD I MISS FUCKING CLIMBING.
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gymnastc
Sep 6, 2005, 2:52 AM
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Hey guys! I’m Chris from Boston, and I met Happiegrrrl down at the Gunks this weekend. We decided that starting on Three Pines would be a nice easy warm up and “get to know you” climb. She told me that she had never led any multipitch routes before, so this was her time! I gave her P1 so that she could be the one to start off her first multipitch lead. She made it to the first belay ledge without incident, we swapped gear, and I headed out on P2. I brought her up and off she went on P3 to top out! When I got to the top, all I could do was congratulate her! She had just led her way up her first multipitch route!
As for our next route, she said that I could choose something harder that I could lead. I told her that we could do something harder, but not too hard, so that we could still swing leads, so the next climb we did was Bitchy Virgin. I took P1 and she took P2. As I was climbing up the corner, I was thinking that this was a bit stiff for a 5.5, and I think Terrie did too! After building an anchor and bringing Terrie up, we both had a laugh because we felt good about ourselves for not using the tree on the way up! P2 looked a bit more runout than Terrie would have liked. I told her that if she didn’t feel comfortable leading it, then I would. After a while of thinking, she decided that she would lead it herself. I was glad to see that she was going to take charge. She began climbing up, over the anchor, and by the time she placed her first piece, it was probably the highest she had ever climbed above any pro! She got up to the crux area, and was a little hesitant to move ahead. All she needed to do was to stay clam and remember that she has climbed this grade and harder before. She committed to the moves, and before you knew it, she was up at the top! I came up, and again, all I could do was congratulate her! I was so happy to watch her work through her fears and succeed! It definitely shows character when someone is scared, but goes ahead and tries anyways, and comes out triumphant!
Terrie is a great partner, and such a pleasant person to be around! She is very gracious and willing to learn, just a great person in general! I’m glad I was able to meet her this weekend!
Chris
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happiegrrrl
Sep 6, 2005, 2:07 PM
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Well....Chris - you didn't tell about the rest of your trip to the Gunks!
I DID have a good day climbing, and am in the process of doing a little essay on that climb. It was an.....interesting.....experience. One I am still processing, but has given me pause to reflect. I mentioned it on a "gratitude list" I share with a group of women, and have the feeling that they just wouldn't quite understand what the hell I was thinking when I committed to casting off on that one. Hell, I have the feeling some climbers will have a few things to say, if I ever put the last period on the text and post it up.....
Chris is an excellent partner, and climbs harder that 5.5, by the way. If he ever posts looking for someone to climb with - you'd be doing yourself solid to take him up. He's easy-going, fun, safe and all of the things that, in my book, make for a good climbing partner. I hope to see him round the cliffs again.
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happiegrrrl
Sep 9, 2005, 5:52 PM
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Boy.....poor NY Climbers Thread.......
"WHERE IS EV'RYBODY?" Off on some Virgin Atlantic flight to squeeze in their last summer holidays?
Anyway, I am getting ready to head upstate in an hour or so. Will be camping at the MUA, hopefully I will get ther in time to score a site next to the parking area, so I can set up a little cooking. If anyone is up there, look for Junior( he's a van, not a man - silver-grey Toyota).
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jakedatc
Sep 9, 2005, 6:03 PM
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aww i'll post up in your little thread since i'm headed to NY today.. Dak's though and not Gunks
anyone know about how far Mckensie pond is from the tall stuff around keene? might do some bouldering monday after a couple days of trad
Jake
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shakylegs
Sep 9, 2005, 7:46 PM
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Isn't Mckenzie Pond out by Lake Placid/Saranac Lake?
If so, I'm thinking a 30-minute drive to Keene Valley to hit Washbowl and other such cliffs.
You can drop in to the Mountaineer (Keene Valley) or EMS (Lake Placid) for more info. However, they're not big on the climbing stuff at EMS.
FYI, there's also free camping next to Chapel Pond, if you're so inclined.
Enjoy the Dacks.
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gymnastc
Sep 14, 2005, 11:58 PM
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I posted this in the partner section, and thought I'd post it here too.
I'm looking for a partner for the Gunks on Sunday the 18th. I'm getting there on Thursday night, and already have plans for Friday and Saturday.
I can lead up to around .9 and can follow .10 comfortably. I've got a full rack. I'm looking for someone to swing leads with and I've got no problems getting on routes below my limit. If anyone is interested, e-mail me or send a PM before tommorow night. Thanks!
Chris
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happiegrrrl
Sep 17, 2005, 3:21 AM
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I cannot believe....finally, at 10:45pm on Friday, my d^#ned assistant agrees to handle the weekend work I emailed her about this morning. Sheesh! Don't these people know I have priorities!!
Anyway, now at least I can head to the Gunks tomorrow. I'll probably get there late afternoon, and I think I'll take Teddy on a walk along the Trapps overcliff trail and probably do a little bouldering. I am going to camp the van in the Trapps parking lot I guess, if anyone wants to stop by in the evening. And Sunday I am finally(unless it rains) helping with trail work. Hope I can find someone to climb with after we finish up. I may stay up and camp Sunday night and avoid the slow moving vehicles crawling back to Manhattan.....
Not much climbing for me, but it just feels so good to get away from the city, and my dog is just so happy up there.
FYI - next Saturday, the 24th is Adopt-a-Crag day at Peterskill. It was fun last year; we met up about 9 and got to meet each other, then did some clean up of chalk off rock and laying down wood chips on the trail, and then we did climbing afterward.
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 18, 2005, 1:44 AM
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Nice work. A friend and I got rained off on the second pitch. clowds came in, rain started, we rapped and drank vodka. as soon as I had a few shots in me clowds cleared. well... I will go back.
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 18, 2005, 1:45 AM
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Nice work. A friend and I got rained off on the second pitch. clowds came in, rain started, we rapped and drank vodka. as soon as I had a few shots in me clowds cleared. well... I will go back.
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happiegrrrl
Sep 22, 2005, 3:05 PM
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Last weekend I took a walk along the overcliff trail at the Trapps, and of course, spied the crag off to the west. Lost City, I gather. I think it is due time I amble over there, and am wondering about the trail to take. I am In the guidebooks it looks like you head out from the Coxing Kill lot. Could anyone who knows give me a little bit of info? I ran into an old-timer hiker a few weeks ago who had said you sort of need to know your way, so I'd appreciate any assistance.
And what's everyone doing this wekend? I am hoping to head up Friday afternoon(and take that look as mentioned above) and then do the clean-up at peterskill on Saturday. Then, the slideshow at R&S and back home later Saturday night. If....I can get my weekend work covered.
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climbingbetty22
Sep 24, 2005, 4:45 PM
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I finally got a ride!!!
Last weekend I became the proud owner of a 1992 Subaru Legacy. Yes, she's old, but she runs well for her age, insurance is way cheap, and really she's the perfect climbing bum car. I look forward to many climbing trips with her. Particularly right now, visions of brand new Vipers and Daks ice climbing are dancing in my head. Mmmmm....
I love the climbing life. :D
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 24, 2005, 11:35 PM
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Happiegirl, it is kinda hard to explain how to get there, and seeing that there isnt a guide book it would be best to go with someone who knows the area. most of the routes are in the 5.10-5.12 range with a few exeptions on both ends of the spectrum. I am sure Richie D would be happy to take you out there (and show off for you, then spray about it later). best of luck.....
climbingbetty22 wrote In reply to: she's the perfect climbing bum car. |
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happiegrrrl
Sep 25, 2005, 4:31 AM
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Thanks: I did find the trail info on Gunks.com, plus also a friend saw my request and PM'ed me with info.
I did already know the grades were high/no book, etc. But thanks for the answer anyway.
As for the slight to Richard..... perhaps you have some personal conflicts with him, but I think I will judge the man on the interations I have had with him on my own. He was extraordinarily kind and patient, and a very good teacher, when I climbed with him.
Perhaps I misundertsood your intent when you wrote "and spray about it later." It reads as if Richard would be the spraylord......doesn't make sense. Maybe you meant that I would spray about climbing with him? Since I did post about a day of climbing I had with the guy once, perhaps that is the case. If so, please take only a small offense when I say.... piss off. :angel:
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 25, 2005, 6:41 PM
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Happiegirl. my humar doesnt come across the internet very well. I know richard and like climbing with him very much. gunks humar does involve making fun of people for spraying, and richard will be the first to admit that he is guilty of a little afterclimb, delli spray himself.
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climbingbetty22
Sep 25, 2005, 7:00 PM
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In reply to: I know richard and like climbing with him very much.
He's not into hero worship, but...
LOL. Yes, It's only funny if you know him. And Charlie, about the climbing bum comment-- fuck you buddy. :twisted:
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happiegrrrl
Sep 25, 2005, 7:40 PM
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oh....hahahar.... Yeah, I didn't get the joke. Actually, I thought that perhaps you might be the person who.....well, I guess that is best left for a personal conversation. And, you see - I made my own attempt at humor, too, when I posted, with the angel-wings emoticon......
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gunked
Sep 25, 2005, 8:15 PM
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In reply to: I finally got a ride!!! Last weekend I became the proud owner of a 1992 Subaru Legacy. Yes, she's old, but she runs well for her age, insurance is way cheap, and really she's the perfect climbing bum car. I look forward to many climbing trips with her. Particularly right now, visions of brand new Vipers and Daks ice climbing are dancing in my head. Mmmmm.... I love the climbing life. :D
Congrats on the climbing-bum wheels!
I'm always looking for more ice partners and I have a spare set of Vipers. Quarks are my choice for now! If interested, PM me. I can meet you up North(Daks, VT,NH) or you can meet me in the Catskills or Gunks(if it's in :roll: )..
And...this IS NOT a pick-up line! I read your profile and I probably can't handle you unless tied up! :lol:
If you wanna tie in with me on rock first, I'm always looking to get out...usually mid-week!
-Jason :D
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climbingbetty22
Sep 25, 2005, 9:20 PM
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Jason-
I'm usually in class during the week, but weekends I can usually make work. Definitely looking to climb whatever ice exists this winter. I'm pretty new to ice, so I wouldn't be the best person to ask if you plan to go do your dream climb or something. But I'm all up for learning!
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 25, 2005, 10:01 PM
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^^^^ she cant free climb a 5.6 to save her life, but she sure will make up for it back in camp :wink: :lol:
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climbingbetty22
Sep 25, 2005, 10:33 PM
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In reply to: ^^^^ she cant free climb a 5.6 to save her life, but she sure will make up for it back in camp :wink: :lol:
Fuck you buddy! After your incarceration, you won't be able to climb for shit AND you won't have any skill to entertain anyone back at camp!
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 26, 2005, 12:16 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: ^^^^ she cant free climb a 5.6 to save her life, but she sure will make up for it back in camp :wink: :lol: f--- you buddy! After your incarceration, you won't be able to climb for s--- AND you won't have any skill to entertain anyone back at camp! |
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 26, 2005, 12:21 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: ^^^^ she cant free climb a 5.6 to save her life, but she sure will make up for it back in camp :wink: :lol: f--- you buddy! After your incarceration, you won't be able to climb for s--- AND you won't have any skill to entertain anyone back at camp! |
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climbingbetty22
Sep 26, 2005, 12:32 AM
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Of course you'll keep rope- gunning for me, I'm the only chick who's belayed you in a bikini top.
You jsut better watch out though- one of these days I won't need a rope gun anymore and if you're not nice now, you may find yourself out of a job :wink:
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irene
Sep 26, 2005, 8:07 PM
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Just curious if anyone around here was at the opening of the new gym in Valhalla this past Saturday (www.thecliffsclimbing.com)...and if anyone is willing to share thoughts.
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gunkiemike
Sep 26, 2005, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: Just curious if anyone around here was at the opening of the new gym in Valhalla this past Saturday (www.thecliffsclimbing.com)...and if anyone is willing to share thoughts.
Sssshhh Irene. I want to listen to all-that and climbbetty get each other all hot & bothered. Yea, nuthin' like good ole websex...
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climbingbetty22
Sep 28, 2005, 2:07 AM
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^^^^^^
Well someone had to do something to liven this place up and clear out the cobb webs.
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feedmerocks
Sep 29, 2005, 2:10 AM
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Yo betty are you going to keep wearing that bikini top into October? If so, we'd love to meet you. The cold shouldn't be a problem for a tough girl like you, in fact I expect it should be entertaining. :twisted:
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all_that_is_rock
Oct 1, 2005, 10:12 PM
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In reply to: I'm the only chick who's belayed you in a bikini top. |
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climbingbetty22
Oct 1, 2005, 10:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm the only chick who's belayed you in a bikini top. You sure about that??
Yeah. Underage bimbos with no tits don't count.
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all_that_is_rock
Oct 1, 2005, 11:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I'm the only chick who's belayed you in a bikini top. You sure about that?? Yeah. Underage bimbos with no tits don't count. |
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climbingbetty22
Oct 1, 2005, 11:13 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I'm the only chick who's belayed you in a bikini top. You sure about that?? Yeah. Underage bimbos with no tits don't count. no fair!! I heard those were worth extra points
Why would they count for extra points? With no tits, they're barely distinguishable from little boys.....unless that's what you're into Charlie. :twisted:
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all_that_is_rock
Oct 2, 2005, 5:16 AM
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post edited because I can't be that much of an ass.
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grinspoon
Oct 3, 2005, 4:18 AM
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STFU and find a new place to flirt.. lovebirds.
irene wrote:
In reply to: Just curious if anyone around here was at the opening of the new gym in Valhalla this past Saturday (www.thecliffsclimbing.com)...and if anyone is willing to share thoughts
Yeah, I was there. Pretty rad place. The free vodka and redbull was nice. It's too bad the Khadeja models japped though..damn it.
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happiegrrrl
Oct 4, 2005, 6:01 PM
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How was everybody's weekend? I was lucky enough to have an extra long extended one! I didn't do a lot of climbing though...and I need to rectify that next time I am out.
Friday I got upstate late afternoon and hiked out to Lost City. Did a little bit of bouldering. What a beautiful place. I can't wait to get back out there.
Saturday I climbed topropes at Peterskill. Sunday, I helped with trail work and afterwards went scouting for a "ride" at the Trapps, to no avail.
Monday I had a short day and though I only seconded one pitch of Ribs, I did enjoy myself quite a bit. Here is Teddy, finding a new use for the guidebook.
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-10-300154.jpg
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jackflash
Oct 4, 2005, 6:28 PM
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I went to Little Falls on Sunday and headed over to the Wind Walls, where I'd never been. They were short and there was some poison ivy around the base, but the climbs had some good quality.
I took a lead fall trying Aunt Smears, ripping out my #5 swedge and landing on my belayer, then the short boulder that he was standing on. My foot got hurt in the process. I tried the route again, but couldn't manage it the second time either.
Our visit was cut short, as the local police came to kick us off the cliff for trespassing. Apparently its illegal to climb there.
I spent the rest of the day on the Island, doing more talking than climbing.
Was this the last nice weekend of the season? I hope not.
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kimmyt
Oct 4, 2005, 7:05 PM
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In reply to: Was this the last nice weekend of the season? I hope not.
blasphemer...it's only the beginning of october!
although this coming weekend sure doesn't look too promising... (i bought a new rainjacket just in case)
K.
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grinspoon
Oct 4, 2005, 8:13 PM
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happiegrrrl - I think I saw you walking yer dog at The Trapps on sunday. I was out shooting some vids along the road.
Jackflash - Where is the Wind Walls? I went to Moss Island on saturday. The place was a friggin zoo. Some F'ers almost dropped a rope on me while I was soloing some face. I finally checked out the back of the island..wow..there's a few good problems back there and some of the formations are just stunning.
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grinspoon
Oct 4, 2005, 8:14 PM
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happiegrrrl - I think I saw you walking yer dog at The Trapps on sunday. I was out shooting some vids along the road.
Jackflash - Where is the Wind Walls? I went to Moss Island on saturday. The place was a friggin zoo. Some F'ers almost dropped a rope on me while I was soloing some face. I finally checked out the back of the island..wow..there's a few good problems back there and some of the formations are just stunning.
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happiegrrrl
Oct 4, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Grinspoon - Did you have a tripod stuck in a bouldering pad, and were with a group of boulderers by the Uberfall? If yes, then I remeber noticing you and your group.
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jackflash
Oct 4, 2005, 10:37 PM
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The Wind Walls are just across the bridge on the left. The top of them looks like any old road cut. You get to the bottom by taking River Road, which is at the first light you come to when entering town.
We got caught when the cop saw our cars and saw one of us climbing from River Road. The top of the cliff is also highly visible from the highway, bridge and a good portion of the town, so setting top-rope anchors is risky as well. I got threatened with arrest, so, if you go, hope the police are in a good mood.
They did make it clear that the Dihedrals are out of city limits, however, which meant they couldn't stop us from climbing there, though the railway security or state police still could.
Have you done the Crucifix recently? We have permission from the landowner to climb there, and I put a rap anchor on top last week.
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grinspoon
Oct 6, 2005, 2:02 AM
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Happiegrrrl - Yep, that'd be me.
Jackflash - I've never gotten close to the Crucifix cliff, I've only seen it from a distance..I'll have to check it out. That sucks about the police dude..damn. For a good laugh, check out the maze of handicap ramps they installed near the lock..there had to be a better way to do that..
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freeskicolorado
Oct 7, 2005, 11:40 PM
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In reply to: For a good laugh, check out the maze of handicap ramps they installed near the lock..there had to be a better way to do that..
I thought that was hilarious too. It might have been easier to just install a freaking elevator.
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mowz
Oct 12, 2005, 11:09 PM
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I'm coming to the Gunks this weekend. More than likely, I'll be heading into the Gunks (Trapps) and maybe Rumney. I am aware that the weather right now is a bit wet. Do you know how the weather will be this weekend?
If it does rain, what are good dry routes? Please help.
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happiegrrrl
Oct 13, 2005, 2:56 AM
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mowz....getcherass right over to the Events & Gatherings forum and check out the Gunks Gathering thread. The weather forecasts are listed.
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happiegrrrl
Oct 21, 2005, 1:05 PM
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I don't care if the is forecast for rain....I'm heading upstate this afternoon. I'm looking at that van as my country home, I think.... Gonna stop at Campmor on the way, and get a tarp, just in case I need to create a little bit of an umbrella.
I'll be camped at the MUA on the north side till Monday. If you see Junior parked(grey van), stop by and have a cup of cocoa.
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troutboy
Oct 21, 2005, 1:22 PM
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In reply to: I don't care if the is forecast for rain....I'm heading upstate this afternoon.
Way to keep the faith, sister. Remember last weekend (and the other hundred or so over the last couple years where the prediction was wrong) !
As for me, I'm staying home, it's gonna rain :roll: .
T
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jackflash
Oct 27, 2005, 12:48 AM
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Beautiful Gunks weather...check
Willing partners...check
Nightly happenings...check
Flu virus...huh?
Damn you Murphy!
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climbingbetty22
Nov 7, 2005, 10:40 PM
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This past weekend was another gorgeous one at the Gunks!!! Completely uncharacteristic of early November weather in New York.
I got lucky and got to make it down for the weekend. In terms of climbing one of the highlights of my trip was finally leading my nemesis climb. Now I can transition into winter and let this rock season go without the thought of "if only I had done that one climb....." :D
Happie....Jason & I saw the van there this weekend. Hope you had a good time and enjoyed the awesome weather!
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pjcozzi
Nov 8, 2005, 3:41 AM
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Anyone hear of any break ins at the MUA recently? I camped there this past weekend and saw lots of broken glass on the right side of the road when your heading toward 44/55. Yet another reason to sleep with your gear. lol.
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happiegrrrl
Nov 8, 2005, 6:04 PM
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Someone "rolled in" to the MUA on Friday night about 11pm....Rolled right up and into the rear of poor Junior, scaring the bejesus out of me. Then...they simply turned off the car and got out, still lip-locked with my little van's hiney! I had to ask them to back (the F) up, if they didn't mind, so I could open the hatch in the moring to get stuff out.....
Anyway - Betty - Yes, I had a great weekend - what weather! Saturday I got to follow on a few climbs that were challenging but within my onsight following ability. Got to spot my leader as he started up Sente (and made it with no mishap), and then to try to climb it (gave up after a few trys and got a power assist until I was past that first smear).
Sunday, I was partnerless, but made the best of the day by walking the cliffline and familiarizing myself. I did some traversing sections, and took time to watch some parties go up some harder(at least to me...) routes.
Non-climbing related - Had dinner on Sat. nite at the seafood place - Gel...(?) - Delicious, but spendy. And on Sunday, at the LemonGrass Thai place - wonderful, at a more reasonable price range.
I am thinking on heading up this Friday night, and will be seeking partners for Sat/Sunday...... Weather looks awesome.
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chrisb
Nov 11, 2005, 12:28 AM
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Happie,
Chris here (guy who walked up and said hi Sunday morning). That's a drag about your van and not finding a partner Sunday. I hope everything worked out okay with your friend who had the troubles the other night...
Nice meeting you in person. I'll be out with some newcomers tomorrow (Friday) if our schedules work out. I'll look for your van to say hi if you're around.
cb
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happiegrrrl
Nov 11, 2005, 1:58 AM
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Hey Chris - Don't worry about Junior(the van). He wasn't hurt. It's just that...well, being a New Yorker, he thinks it's rude for someone to bump him and not apologize!
As for being solo on Sunday, it's also not a problem, because I got to take the time to scout the cliff base. When I am with partners, I never have the chance to make note of the various routes and their locations. Plus, I did do some hard traversing, so I got my exercise that day.
I'm up both days this weekend, and so maybe I'll see you around.
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iloverocks
Nov 25, 2005, 5:33 AM
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Please can someone contact me as far as training during the winter, where is good to climb indoors in nyc, and if you need a friend to travel to rock gyms out of nyc... thats what I am looking for. Thanks!
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matterunomama
Nov 28, 2005, 1:03 AM
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Oh.....
You should definitely watch the website climbrockclub.com.
The New Gym in New Rochelle is going to be so awesome. It won't be open until spring but Worth The Wait. Great climbing-- good holds, interesting walls, lots of bouldering if thats your passion, good management..even a sauna and beer bar! (It shares those facilities with a tennis club.) The kids are off in a private room (not just a private area) tactfully called the "Training room"-which can also be used for belay tests, warming up etc. You can see into the main gym thru a giant plate glass window, and parents can watch from a mezzanine above-thus getting them off the floor while they watch and encourage their little darlings as they hang from the ropes flailing. Check it out!
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matterunomama
Nov 28, 2005, 1:10 AM
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That last post was a bit of a non sequitor. Sorry about that. It was in response to Irenes Sept post quoted below.
[Just curious if anyone around here was at the opening of the new gym in Valhalla this past Saturday (www.thecliffsclimbing.com)...and if anyone is willing to share thoughts.
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happiegrrrl
Nov 28, 2005, 3:21 PM
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Don't worry....it's not too ahrd to follow this thread, moving at the pace of a turtle in winter! (That gym sounds like a nice one, btw.)
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alpine_monk
Nov 28, 2005, 8:12 PM
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stupid crack will be mine! damn that crack is... well, stupid. another day I guess. the big fall made my knee look like a gigantic purple tit. damn 5.12 R's.
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happiegrrrl
Nov 29, 2005, 2:06 PM
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I didn't mean that it is "winter" here in the N/East....I menat that this thread moves as "slowly as a turtle in winter!" And thus, it's not hard to figure out when a post refers to a different one.
The weather HAS been kind to us, I think! I guess to make up for all that rain......But, as the Icicles(ice climbers) said - that rain was like mannah from heaven.
As for me - I am heading off to California to morrow morning. The weather says it should be in the 50's to 60's during the day. Lucky Meeeeeee!
Oh - if anyone is going out there, I'll be at JTree till 12/11, probably. Might head back to Red Rocks for the last few days, but I didn't try to hook up any partners.....lazy me. Anyway - if you're out there, or know someone who is, and looking for climbing partners, send me a PM.
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jimyyyy
Dec 2, 2005, 4:50 PM
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Hey to all Jewish Rock Climers of the East Coast, Though I have only climed a little I have a huge respect for Climbing and Climers.
My name is Theo Kisch, I am an Artist, single, Jewish, and I live in Manhattan. I admit it I do things differently, I take the “road less traveled†as Robert Frost said so beautifully. I have truly made Unusual choices in my life, and I am proud of them, but I do not fit easily into some simple mold. And for a long time I felt very much alone, I thought there must be other Jews like me, but, I did not know where to find them, so I moved to New York, and I still did not know where to find, my, Tribe. Now others, and myself, are gathering, and forming a community. A community of Creative Jewish singles, living in or around Manhattan. We are looking for Jewish singles of the East Coast, like you, that take chances and call it Adventure, consider themselves Open Minded, and are proud of it. But, the single most important thing after you being Jewish, single, and living in and around New York City, is that you do not fit easily, into some simple mold. If this sounds like you, then you are home, and I invite you to E-mail me, at jimyyyy@aol.com; and then, you will not be alone.
Peace, and Love,
Theo, jimyyyy@aol.com
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jimyyyy
Dec 2, 2005, 4:51 PM
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Hey to all Jewish Rock Climers of the East Coast, Though I have only climed a little I have a huge respect for Climbing and Climers.
My name is Theo Kisch, I am an Artist, single, Jewish, and I live in Manhattan. I admit it I do things differently, I take the “road less traveled†as Robert Frost said so beautifully. I have truly made Unusual choices in my life, and I am proud of them, but I do not fit easily into some simple mold. And for a long time I felt very much alone, I thought there must be other Jews like me, but, I did not know where to find them, so I moved to New York, and I still did not know where to find, my, Tribe. Now others, and myself, are gathering, and forming a community. A community of Creative Jewish singles, living in or around Manhattan. We are looking for Jewish singles of the East Coast, like you, that take chances and call it Adventure, consider themselves Open Minded, and are proud of it. But, the single most important thing after you being Jewish, single, and living in and around New York City, is that you do not fit easily, into some simple mold. If this sounds like you, then you are home, and I invite you to E-mail me, at jimyyyy@aol.com; and then, you will not be alone.
Peace, and Love,
Theo, jimyyyy@aol.com
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climbingbetty22
Dec 5, 2005, 6:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Don't worry....it's not too ahrd to follow this thread, moving at the pace of a turtle in winter! (That gym sounds like a nice one, btw.) Don't worry, people are still getting out though. Gymnastc and I climbed at the Gunks this last weekend, and saw all_that_is_rock, dbyte, and others there. GO
Oh boy...I hope no punches were thrown...
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cracklover
Dec 5, 2005, 8:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Don't worry....it's not too ahrd to follow this thread, moving at the pace of a turtle in winter! (That gym sounds like a nice one, btw.) Don't worry, people are still getting out though. Gymnastc and I climbed at the Gunks this last weekend, and saw all_that_is_rock, dbyte, and others there. GO Oh boy...I hope no punches were thrown...
??? He was very friendly actually! I really hardly know the guy, and as far as I know, he never did anything bad to me. I'm not sure he was such a sweetheart to you, but that's not my business, especially since I know you don't think I was that good to you either, so I don't draw any conclusions.
Besides, it was too cold for that! :P
GO
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climbingbetty22
Dec 6, 2005, 12:16 AM
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Eh, he and I mutually decided to move on. It was one of those summer things anyway. I am seeing someone else, who conveniently lives in New Paltz. :wink:
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grinspoon
Dec 12, 2005, 11:50 PM
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Riiiiiight..back to climbing.
Who got out last weekend? I went bouldering at Nine Corners..iced up crimps and moisture suck. I should've took the gamble and headed to the Catskills with my ice tools.
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happiegrrrl
Dec 13, 2005, 5:51 AM
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awww...who care's about climbing? We can talk about that any time. I'd much rather read about the dramatics that coexist! But, fi you must...I just now got back form 2 weeks in JTree. What a great time I had!
Now all hear this - I am already comitted to my spring JTree trip. To be in end of March or early April. And though I had a lot of fun by myself, and had some wonderful locals show me around - it would be MUCH more fun to have a New York contingent.
The desert in spring is utterly beautiful. So - think about it boys and girls..... I know my way around enough now that I could point out something for everyone, and if I don't know it, I know who I can ask. AND - have met locals who would be happy to meet up at Red Rocks too. So....... what're you all waiting for????
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climbingbetty22
Dec 14, 2005, 4:22 AM
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Speaking of climbing-- I'll be ice climbing in the Catskills ths weekend! :D :D :D
I'm soooo looking forward to it! I think I deserve a heavy dose of mind-numbing cold after all the thinking I've had to do this weekend for final exams. :roll:
Glad to hear you had fun in J-tree Happie. I hope to get back there one day myself.
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alpine_monk
Dec 22, 2005, 12:42 PM
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catskill ice update. the black dike is in, as well as some other stuff in the 214 area. moores bridge still looks a little thin. you could climb buttermilk if you were brave enough. havnt been down to the kitchen yet but I plan on looking tommmorow. some stuff at platteclove is in if you know where to look, but none of the good stuff yet. I hear wildcat has not come in yet but I havnt gone to see for myself. thats all I can think of right now. will post back later.
Dorian.
P.S. I think all_that_is_rock and I will be searching for good lines in the 214 area on friday. come say hi if you see two devilishly good looking fools going leash.less
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climbingbetty22
Dec 26, 2005, 6:12 AM
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Hehe...Was up on Buttermilk on Dec. 19. That'll put hair on your chest. There is a decent pictures of Gunked leading Black Dyke about two weeks ago on NEice.com
Devilishly good looking guys? :lol: :lol: :lol:
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alpine_monk
Dec 26, 2005, 5:30 PM
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In reply to: Devilishly good looking guys? :lol: :lol: :lol: |
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storer
Jan 10, 2006, 5:19 PM
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I'm looking at going up to the Dacks in a couple of weeks....how is the snow and ice? I was just in upstate New York this week and they only had and inch or so.
Do any of you have any good alpine climbs? I'm planning on taking my friend from France, he has never been in the Dacks and I wanted a "fun" climb. I was thinking the back side of Algonquine.
Steve
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alpine_monk
Jan 11, 2006, 12:29 AM
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the temps have been warm and the snow scarce, but a friend of mine did just do the trap dike and said it was in good condition. that is a "fun" climb. lots of easy steep snow and NE2 ice. good luck.
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alorama
Jan 20, 2006, 3:28 PM
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Hello,
A question for you Gunks folks- With the weather the way its been do you think that the rock will be dry this weekend? The weather report has evening showers on SAT, other than that it looks dry and warm.
THanks
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alpine_monk
Jan 20, 2006, 10:16 PM
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In reply to: Hello, A question for you Gunks folks- With the weather the way its been do you think that the rock will be dry this weekend? The weather report has evening showers on SAT, other than that it looks dry and warm. THanks |
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ratherbe
Jan 21, 2006, 1:46 AM
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In reply to: Hello, A question for you Gunks folks- With the weather the way its been do you think that the rock will be dry this weekend? The weather report has evening showers on SAT, other than that it looks dry and warm. THanks
Was there today, there is some seepage, but definitely I'm sure you'll find some things dry enough, we did!
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wendella
Jan 21, 2006, 8:27 PM
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Hey,
If anyone is up for climbing indoors in Westchester tomorrow morning (http://www.thecliffsclimbing.com/hours.shtml), pm me.
:) Wendy
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sirlancelot
Jan 24, 2006, 3:16 AM
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Was there on Sunday - chilly, but dry.
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grinspoon
Feb 24, 2006, 3:13 PM
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Alright, somebody post some shit.
What's everybody upto? How are you coping with the ice/plastic season?
I hit up the Quarry Wall last weekend for a couple hours, that -25F wind whipping through Cascade Pass..jeezus! Got on the waterfall at Poko also.
Yeah, French Canadians suck
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taino
Feb 24, 2006, 6:14 PM
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I've been convalescing from an ankle injury until recently; just started my ice season - in the worst frikken conditions I've seen; getting to the gym as much as possible to get myself back into climbing shape. With the shitty weather, I'm pretty much focused on rock season.
T
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jackflash
Mar 1, 2006, 4:19 PM
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I went to the Catskills to meet some folks and get on some ice last weekend. We went to Stoney Clove and Deep Notch. I liked Stoney better, although the ice was thinner there.
Its been colder recently than been all winter, but I'm still hoping to hit rock soon. I took a month off for a recurring finger problem and just started doing light juggy traverses in the gym on Monday.
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happiegrrrl
Mar 1, 2006, 6:57 PM
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Forgive me fadda, for I have sinned. It's been more than two months since I've climbed outside(well, except of that one day in Central Park, bouldering).
- BUT -
Let the countdown begin!
I am off the the Tree on March 22nd. Hoping to get at leat one day at the Gunks beforehand......
And, upon my return - for certain, we'll be amongst the Gunks season. Let the good times roll........
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marinaaxid25
Mar 2, 2006, 3:05 PM
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Ha..what have I been up to? I've been up to my eyeballs with papers for grad school. Plus, one of my partners is away this month skiing in the Alps (lucky guy).
But the good news out of all the craziness is that I have a new teaching job lined up for next year :D
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climbingbetty22
Mar 2, 2006, 7:10 PM
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Got a day in at the Cats on the ice at Moore's Bridge last week. I'm not the best judge of ice conditions as I'm still very much new to ice climbing. But the ice was fat enough to to take screws up to 19 cm in the right places. Had a really fun day out.
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mcclown
Mar 4, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Hey guy's
I'm a climber from Ireland and I'm going to be in Long Island this summer working under a J1(I've another climber friend who will be in the same area aswell). I should have every weekend off to get some climbing in, I climb 5.8(English VS) comfortably and have been known to push myself to 5.10a/b(English E1) on trad routes and I have no bolt experience yet(untill my next trip that is!).
So what do you recommend? Whats the best way to get to the areas you mention by publc transport(unless somebody wants to offer lifts :D )? How long will it take to get to these crags? How worthwhile will it be to bring over my trad rack? And any other tips you have....thanks in advance for your help
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cracklover
Mar 4, 2006, 4:27 AM
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Hey McClown. In a word - YES.
According to Mapquest, a two and a half hour drive should get you to The Gunks, where you'll find that your 5.8 to 5.10 trad skills should get you up a *ton* of world-class trad routes. If you don't have a car and can't get a ride, there are busses up to New Paltz from Manhattan. Can't say I've ever taken one, though.
I'm coming from the other direction - so no rides from me - sorry!
GO
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grinspoon
Mar 6, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Yeah, ice is nice..but we're all waiting for the rock to warm up. Mmmm..J-tree sounds good right now. Eh, not much longer before I can climb at Little Falls.
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alpine_monk
Mar 17, 2006, 8:51 PM
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so long NY, it's been nice but wyoming is callin' my name.
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grinspoon
Mar 18, 2006, 1:28 PM
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Traitor
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alpine_monk
Mar 18, 2006, 10:18 PM
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hey, with the tetons, devils tower, vedauwoo, tensleep, and wind rivers for climbing and Jackson Hole for boarding....... yeah, hunter mtn. and the gunks just dont hold up. sorry.
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all_that_is_rock
Mar 22, 2006, 5:16 AM
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hey Dorian whats the matter? couldnt send Carbs and Caffine so you gotta run and hide in wyoming? :lol: fuckin' punter
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alpine_monk
Mar 22, 2006, 11:12 PM
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Always the supportive one charlie, arn't ya. see you in wyo compadre.
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climbingbetty22
Mar 23, 2006, 1:09 AM
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Now boys....
Ice is still great up in the Daks (I even led my first ice climb last weekend!)
So why run off to Wyoming so soon?
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jackflash
Mar 31, 2006, 12:44 PM
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I'm headed to Little Falls this afternoon with some folks if anyone is looking to climb. It's a fairly casual group, so we'll probably just be top-roping on the Island.
Also, I'll be in the Gunks Sunday and Monday showing a friend the joys and terrors of multipitch leading. Say hi
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climbingbetty22
Apr 2, 2006, 6:26 PM
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I can't believe I'm going to say this, but...
Dammit if I don't miss Happiegirl. She put some life in this thread and the site in general. I just replied to a thread in Community about Velveeta cheese I'm so bored! :boring:
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happiegrrrl
Apr 2, 2006, 11:01 PM
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I just flew back from Joshua Tree....
.....and boy - my arms are tired!
bwaaa haaa ha hah ha......ahhhhhhhhhh....
Thank you for noticing my absense, CB.
Poor rc.com. I have been away because of the trip and also because, beforehand, the pages were so slow in loading I couldn't stand it. That, and the lameness of the Community threads just made it seem not worthwhile.
It befuddles me that people actually get worked up over other people's sexuality, and that seems to be the top topic here. Over on the other site I play on - we have a higher level of lowbrow humour.
And, I have also been working hard at answering emails from guys on the fitness-singles site. It is amazing how many of them are hoping I can teach them to climb. Today I even got an offer of "friendship and cammeraderie," and "a massage if so desired" (with a : ) emoticon following it) if I took a complete stranger on "as a trainee"...... and then he got pretty hostile when I told him I wasn't interested in meeting him.
So far I am batting zero with that site, even though there is a decent level of guys checking on my profile. I think I need lessons on the art of being a vixen.....
Anyway, these two things give me enough internet entertainment that rc is sort of like shopping at KMart, unfortunately. But, I am going to get back in the swing. I need to post for potential partners this season, too.
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alpine_monk
Apr 3, 2006, 12:14 AM
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In reply to: I think I need lessons on the art of being a vixen..... |
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climbingbetty22
Apr 3, 2006, 12:26 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I think I need lessons on the art of being a vixen..... lession #1: Don't look for men on the internet.
Why not??? I tried looking at the MUA and all I found was Charlie. :roll: Surley the internet is better. :lol: HAHA
Glad to see you're back Happie- hope you had a good time! After I get back from Vegas I think I might take the dive and subscribe to a month on that site as well. I periodically check the messages that I am receiving, but of course, I can't read them until I cough up the dough. I'm think I'll just do a month intiallly, hence I'm going to wait until after my trip...It would be silly to be away and not able to received emails for half of my month!
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cracklover
Apr 3, 2006, 12:31 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I think I need lessons on the art of being a vixen..... lession #1: Don't look for men on the internet.
Nope.
Lesson #1: Look like a goddess, act like a bitch.
Lesson #2 etc: See lesson #1.
GO
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happiegrrrl
Apr 3, 2006, 3:22 AM
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In reply to: Lesson #1: Look like a goddess, act like a b----. Lesson #2 etc: See lesson #1. GO
.ohhhh.....that's what I've been doing wrong; I had it backwards.
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alpine_monk
Apr 3, 2006, 5:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I think I need lessons on the art of being a vixen..... lession #1: Don't look for men on the internet. Nope. Lesson #1: Look like a goddess, act like a b----. Lesson #2 etc: See lesson #1. GO |
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climbingbetty22
Apr 11, 2006, 5:52 PM
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This thread needs a pick me up, no new post in a week!!!
Spring is practically here (I think for good!!) Here in CNY today it is a gorgeous 68 degree and sunny kind of day. I'm trying to concentrate on my final exams, but I can't help but feel the call of warm rock....
So how about it- post up your goals for this climbing season, destinations on your list, covetes routes, a grade you want to lead, a grade you just want to follow, a technique you want to master, etc...
Let's hear it!
(i'd start but well, its a really long story, but for personal reasons, I try to really restrict what I post in ths thread.)
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aphazia
Apr 12, 2006, 4:21 AM
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Hey folks. This seems the most applicable place to say "Hi!", so... Hi?
I'm 27, living on Long Island. I climbed indoor at Ocean Rock for about a year, 3 or 4 times a week, back when I was 17. Fell out of the sport for a long while, and have jsut started climbing again. Thus far, I'm clocking in 3 trips a week to Island Rock to start getting back in shape. I used to be able to chill on 5.9 / 5.10... as it is now, I'm so out of shape I'm still weaning my way into 5.6 / 5.7s.
I've also become quite addicted to slacklining, thanks to the dudes at the gym who set one up.
I also dig hiking, camping, backpacking, and airsoft, and I work in IT- specifically, as a lead tech/supervisor for Optimum Online and Optimum Voice. Yes, I know you hate us. ;)
Anyways, just wanted to say hi, and hopefully I'll get to meet some of you folks in the near future!
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climbingbetty22
Apr 12, 2006, 1:43 PM
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In reply to: living on Long Island
Nassua or Suffolk?
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aphazia
Apr 12, 2006, 2:47 PM
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Nassau county. Massapequa, to be precise, although I grew up in Suffolk and spent a year or two in Brooklyn as well.
I work odd hours, so last night after I got out of work at 1am I hit up a park down the street and set up my slackline- good way to kill 3 hours and shamble home at 4am. Now off to Island Rock to pump plastic until work!
Definitely looking forward to getting up to the Gunks as soon as I get a little more strength- as it is right now, I doubt I could do all that much, and I don't even have a harness yet- my shoes still fit, but I definitely outgrew that harness in the 10 or so years since I got it... >.<
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climbingbetty22
Apr 12, 2006, 8:24 PM
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I flirting with the idea od moving down to the Long Island area. Levittown-ish. If I can find a reasonably priced place to live! But I was curious as to what near there in terms of gyms, which is why I asked what county you're in.
Oh and I guess this thread is as good a place as any to share my excitement-- so last night I was bemoaning the price of gas to my bf and considering my options in terms of getting a part-time job to help finance the gas for trips to the Gunks this summer. But with my schol schedule, the most convenient time to work is on the weekends, when I want to be climbing!
So what I needed (and what my bf suggested) was someone to come on trips with me to help share the cost of gas. But where would I find such a person? I live in a very climber-unfriendly region. I can barely get people to go to the gym with me, let alone go all the way to Gunks. But then on a whim, I stopped in the coffee shop today and I ran into a guy I was tutoring this trimester. He asked me about when I leave for my climbing trip to Red Rocks and when the girl he was hanging with heard "climbing," her eyes let up. Turns out that she use to live in Colorado, has shoes and a harness but hasn't climbed in 6 years! And she wants to go climbing again! She asked for my phone number straight away! I'm so excited a new climbing partner!!!!
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
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aphazia
Apr 12, 2006, 8:35 PM
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Nice! Grats on the partner!
Levittown is all of 7 minutes from my house. Island Rock is about 15 minutes from my house- so figure it's about 10 from L-Town.
Island Rock is a great gym. Plenty to do and keep you occupied, and the staff/regulars are all extremely nice and welcoming- I've been going for 3 weeks, 3 times a day, and while I can't remember everyone's names, they're all totally chill and make you feel welcome. If you want to shoot down this way and climb there for a day, I'll be happy to belay ya. Just shout. I usually climb M/W/F from opening at 12 till around 3:45 when I have to leave for work. ;)
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jackflash
Apr 13, 2006, 5:16 PM
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Goals? A season without injury....
I want to get up to Cannon to do the Whitney-Gilman. I like historic routes, and its been a few years since I've been to NH. If I get ambitious, I'd like to tackle The Fastest Gun at Poke-O as well.
This season will be predominantly spent at the Gunks though. I'll be doing research for my Masters there. I want to get over to Millbrook, Lost City, etc., since I usually just climb at the Trapps because its taller. I had a whole list of routes last spring, but haven't put much thought into it this season. Stirrup Trouble is a leftover that I fell off of last year (right near the top!) but I need my endurance back before I get on it again.
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all_that_is_rock
Apr 13, 2006, 8:42 PM
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sturrup trouble is a pisser. P-38's evil cousin if you will :? anywho, I hope to lead Erect Direction this season and perhaps try Try Again again. goals besides that consist of getting my ass in shape for Wyoming and getting lots of shiney new gear... maybee a new tattoo also.
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aphazia
Apr 13, 2006, 9:53 PM
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Getting more tattoos is just an inevitability at this point, not even something that needs to be planned on! ;)
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alpine_monk
Apr 14, 2006, 10:21 PM
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god I'm gunna miss the gunks, but the west calls.
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climbingbetty22
Apr 17, 2006, 9:08 PM
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ALright my lovely New Yorkers- I'm off for a week out West. Woo-hoo!! :D
*crosses fingers* Let's hope for no airline fuck-ups that result in lost gear! :shock:
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all_that_is_rock
Apr 23, 2006, 6:27 PM
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So who else was at the Dr.Kodos slide show? I saw Happiegrrrl, tradrenn and doonie. Anyone else? God that was funny, maybe a bit of a southern sprayfest but self admittedly so.
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all_that_is_rock
Apr 23, 2006, 6:29 PM
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edited to add: so the filter changes dR,KOOOdOse to his real name now???
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climbingbetty22
May 22, 2006, 6:36 PM
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Wow- our poor old thread is in need of some help...
I was at the Gunks this weekend, yesterday was my birthday. I had intented to spend it on the rocks, but Mother Nature had other ideas. :evil: I did get to do some climbing on Saturday though in the Nears. Finally did the ultra-classic Disneyland (and I didn't even resort to the beached-whale maneuver), had a very Sly-Stallone-in-Cliffhanger moment on the very wet, very slicked out crux of Tee-Dum, but perhaps the biggest adventure of the day was the second pitch of grease Gun Groove. The First pitch is quite nice and I'd recommend it (if its dry!) to anyone wandering through the Nears, but locating up at the second pitch of the climb, you'll say to yourself "Where the hell does this thing go?" Let that thought be your caution!!! Unless you really get off on climbing chossy, flexing holds covered in lichen and moss. I and my partners that day had to literally lift up tufts of moss to gain handhold on the rock. Anyway, don't recommend the second pitch. :roll:
But despite the less-then desirable weather and climbing conditions, my lovely boyfriend made me a gift of several of the 8 mil Mammut slings and Trango Superfly carabiners in order to help lighten my rack and rid it of the hated ovals. (Well he dislikes using them- "save 'em for when we do a wall" he says!) :D And that sums up why climber-boyfriends rock. Huh-huh. nice pun, eh? :roll: :lol:
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taino
May 22, 2006, 7:32 PM
Post #527 of 700
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Had clients this past Sunday; got in 3 hours of climbing and got rained on - decided to go hiking as a group, instead. Knee is very sore today.
Looking forward to getting on rock on my own terms, this coming weekend.
T
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happiegrrrl
May 22, 2006, 10:29 PM
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I led P1 of Diana(we had no intention of going on to the harder pitch) this weekend and got my partner to the belay just as the rain opened up. This lead was a good one for me because I place gear like it's an addiction, and this time - I HAD to (well, I suppose I didn't HAVE to....) climb above pieces beyond my usual comfort level.
The first 30 feet had me in hyper-Do Not Fall mode, but after that, it was down to the regular "Why Fall When You Don't Have To?" mode.....
In the last few weeks I've gotten a few good leads(for me) in. Please put on your raincoats; here come the spray.....
- P1 and P3 of Snowpatch
- P1 of Wrist
- P2 of Disneyland
And....I grovelled through Bellyroll....hahahah. And I follwoed my first Gunks 5.8, clean and onsight(Slab Schticks in the Nears).
FYI - there is an equiste orchid right alongside the trail in the Nears. It is about 1/2 way down the cliff. Sorry, I didn't note the climbs it is near, but it is a shaded, woody area(orchid terrain). On the downhill side, there is a large log as a trail holder-upper. It isn't the first log you'll pass on your way through. But it is a long one, and pretty fat and still not very decomposed, if that will help diferentiate. Anyway, about the middle of the log, look on the opposite side of the trail, and there the orchid resides.
Please be careful if you go down that far, as the thing is very close to the trail and would be easy to step on or smack with gear. That would kill the thing, of course. I've never seen an orchid up here, and this one is a beautiful, large specimen.
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300028.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300036.jpg
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cracklover
May 22, 2006, 10:43 PM
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Damn girl, is it raining again? Let me get my raincoat to keep off all that spray! ;) Seriously, though - congrats!
In reply to: FYI - there is an equiste orchid right alongside the trail in the Nears. It is about 1/2 way down the cliff. Sorry, I didn't note the climbs it is near, but it is a shaded, woody area(orchid terrain). On the downhill side, there is a large log as a trail holder-upper. It isn't the first log you'll pass on your way through. But it is a long one, and pretty fat and still not very decomposed, if that will help diferentiate. Anyway, about the middle of the log, look on the opposite side of the trail, and there the orchid resides. Please be careful if you go down that far, as the thing is very close to the trail and would be easy to step on or smack with gear. That would kill the thing, of course. I've never seen an orchid up here, and this one is a beautiful, large specimen. http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300028.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2006-4-1300036.jpg
It's a ladyslipper. Yup, it's in the orchid family, and yes, they're beautiful. Very, um, how shall I put this... Well - Georgia O'Keeffe would love 'em. 8^)
There's a large reserve near me in Boston, and I typically take a hike through the area once a season every year this time to see the ladyslippers. One spot in the reserve, in particular, has huge swaths of them - never seen so many anywhere else. You can stand in one spot, turning in a circle and peering through the trees, you will see hundreds rising up from the dead leaves. This area stretches for about a mile of paths, it's pretty cool!
GO
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cracklover
May 22, 2006, 11:26 PM
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Check out the description of the ladyslipper from wikkipedia:
In reply to: Unlike most other members of Cypripedium, the pouch of C. acaule opens in a slit the runs down the front of the labellum rather than a round opening. The plant consists of two plicate leaves near the ground. From between those leaves sprouts a long, pubuscent stalk that bears a single pink flower. The sepals and petals tend to be yellowish-brown to maroon with a large pouch that is usually pink, but is sometimes solid white.
IRL, the flower looks like it's confused whether it's a nutsack or a huge inflamed set of labia.
The way it works is to trap insects in the pouch between it's giant labellum, forcing them to pass by its clitoris, oops, I mean its staminode, behind which they collect or deposit pollinia.
Yowza!
Oh, by the way, happy birthday Climbingbetty!
G:mrgreen:
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jackflash
May 23, 2006, 2:38 AM
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In reply to: IRL, the flower looks like it's confused whether it's a nutsack or a huge inflamed set of labia.
If only some intrepid, botanical, horny climber was willing to find out.
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snops7
May 24, 2006, 9:51 PM
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Happiegrrrl, the pictures that you took came out great! It was impressive to see the orchid there along the trail. I believe the climb that it was near is Cherokee. It is past Eastertime, Too but before Slab Schtick. Hope that helps, and if going down that way try to walk lightly.
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backspace
Jun 5, 2006, 2:28 PM
Post #533 of 700
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wtf
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happiegrrrl
Jun 5, 2006, 3:14 PM
Post #534 of 700
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wtf?
Do you refer to the talkj of flowers on a climbing forum? If so, I can explain.....
The mentioned orchid was found alomng the approach trail of a poular climbing destination. Since some climbers are also interested innative plants and animals, and other things that can be a peripheral part of the climbing experience, I mentioned this find.
1) In case poeple would want to go see it for themselves
2) So people would be aware, and take care when in the area, so as not to accidenatlly kill the thing.
Anyway.....
This weekend I hiked up the easy way to the top of Bonticou, and found 3 more of the Lady Slippers, aslo right along the trail. They were well past thier prime, though. Looks like the season must be at about mid-may, to catch them in peak bloom.
The cool thing about the Bonticou orchids was that each one I saw had two flowers, one right next to the other. Separate plants, but so close they would appear as one.
Anyway, I mentioned spotting the plants to a person who had also seen the Nera's orchid, and he told me.....that another person reported seeing a spot (in the Gunks, undisclosed area) so covered with the things, that he estiomated at least 150.
I am going to keep this in mind for next May.....
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cracklover
Jun 5, 2006, 4:03 PM
Post #535 of 700
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Speaking of the Gunks, for those of you who haven't seen it yet - cool recent photos from the Gunks this weekend posted on gunksdot. Yes, it was raining, but some folks don't mind the rain. Some folks have no choice but to be out in the rain. See here
Y'all be careful, it's a jungle out there!
G:lol:
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climbingbetty22
Jun 5, 2006, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: Oh, by the way, happy birthday Climbingbetty! G:mrgreen:
Thanks Gabe!!!
That was a super cute picture of the little bears on the carriage road!!
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mowz
Jun 13, 2006, 1:47 PM
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Having only been to the Gunks once and only getting on a few routes, is a double rope necessary for any of the classic routes (3-5 stars)? I have a 70m; is it enough?
BTW, I'll be at the Trapps on the 24th and 25th of June of 2006.
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climbingbetty22
Jun 14, 2006, 3:02 AM
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Given that most of the FAs of Gunk's routes took place before 70m ropes were en vogue, you should be more than set with a 70m for climbing. In the Uberfall area that will cover you for most rappels as well, as you start to work you're way down the cliff though, it would probably be advisable to get some beta on the length of the descent route from any knowledgeable, surrounding parties.
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shakylegs
Jun 14, 2006, 3:18 PM
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Or, you know, you could walk off, which is often the quickest way if you only have a single rope.
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troutboy
Jun 14, 2006, 7:32 PM
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In reply to: Having only been to the Gunks once and only getting on a few routes, is a double rope necessary for any of the classic routes (3-5 stars)? I have a 70m; is it enough?
First, there are no 5-star routes at the Gunks...The guidebooks use 3-stars for the classics :wink:
Second, the bolted rap routes (noted in photos in the new Williams' guide for the Trapps) are set up for 60 meter ropes, so double or a 70m are not required. Anywhere near the Uberfall is an easy walk off from the top.
Finally, the non-bolted rap routes vary. Some you can do from the top with a 50, some require a 60. None require a 70m rope. Best is to ask for specific rap info from someone at the cliff for the area you are at, check out potential rap points on your ascent (many trees have rap anchors), or if unsure, suck it up and walk off. Bring a couple of rap rings or a quick link and some bail webbing because many of the rap stations have old slings that may need replacement.
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climbingbetty22
Jun 22, 2006, 4:42 AM
Post #542 of 700
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Anyone else starting to get really annoyed with lack of quality climbing time due to the prevalence of shitty wet weather here in New England!?!?!?! :shock: :tinfoilhat:
:wtf:
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troutboy
Jun 23, 2006, 1:34 PM
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In reply to: Anyone else starting to get really annoyed with lack of quality climbing time due to the prevalence of s--- wet weather here in New England!?!?!?! :shock: :tinfoilhat: :wtf:
Not really. The weather in Delaware has been perfect for mountain biking and not being gone on the weekend has led to a lot of "quality" time with the spouse :D . It's good to have other interests :wink:
It is pretty weird how the weather has been so perfect here, just 175 miles south of the Gunks, and so crappy up there.
TS
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jakedatc
Jul 19, 2006, 11:12 PM
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is Gunks.com dead? or has the address been changed.. noticed a few days ago but thought it might have just been down.. but i tried again today.. also gabe's link up there doesn't work anymore.
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jakedatc
Jul 20, 2006, 12:48 AM
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ahh i see.. bad timing. not a huge deal.. just was surprised
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mountainman
Jul 21, 2006, 12:38 AM
Post #547 of 700
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Hi,
Climbing Gunks week of July 24-28. Looking for a partner or plural. Many years experience. Prob climb most Gunks 9s, but moderates are fine with me.
A ride from the New Haven, CT area during this time would be a big bonus, so I don't hog the family car. Also a return. That would be a first.
Expectations are low, but can't imagine not getting in a day at least.
Call 412 736 0896 and ask for Doyle. We may be able to have a fun time.
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mountainman
Jul 26, 2006, 11:00 PM
Post #548 of 700
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This forum rocks.
Gunkie Mike the 25th, and Crazy Scott the 26th. Geez, I must go biking to let my arms rest.
Thanks for all the offers and extreme kindness, you sweetest people in the world.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 27, 2006, 12:35 AM
Post #549 of 700
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Yay! I love a happy ending......
It looks like I will be up to the Gunks this weekend, hopefully arriving some time on Friday and departing some time on Sunday(hooking up rides through Craigslist.....)
I am not afraid of the rain forecasts.
anyway - I'll be in Camp Slime - my first time there, since I have no vehicle.
- What's a good campsite to try to snag - flat, and that I will be able to set up a tarp if it does rain.
- I will be looking to climb on Saturday for sure. Sunday I'm doing trail work.
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mountainman
Jul 28, 2006, 3:20 AM
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Sorry to miss you this trip Happiegrrrl,
but perhaps it's fate...
Climbing with Scott again Friday. Whew, was it hot and humid out on the bike. Only 52 miles, but who's counting?
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mountainman
Aug 2, 2006, 2:33 AM
Post #551 of 700
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If you ever get an invitation to climb with GunkieMike go for it. Dude climbs hard, and gets your mojo climbing.
But tomorrow is my last day on vaca, so I'm braving the over 100 temps to go with jackflash, he's a gas gas gas!
Real men look for shade!
Update-what a hardman!
Groovy-5.8+
Ant Line-5.9
Lisa 5.9
I then cried "no mas"
Ursula 5.5
Cake Walk 5.7
I was a sweaty mess, felt used and abused. But what a day, doing it in 100 degrees!
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powderpond
Aug 2, 2006, 8:09 PM
Post #552 of 700
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Adirondack climbing partner for 8-14 to 8-17Need a partner for the above dates which are mon-thur; I may need for weekend too, depending on how I handle the family obligations and if Boris cant go. I lead 5.9 trad or less (plenty happy with less), follow 5.11, looking to do some classic poko or chapel routes, maybe something afar. I am orignally from the area and have a house on chazy lake for use that week. Will be heading up there from boston and then back to boston on thurs night.
PM if interested or c1pond@hotmail.com
Chris Pond
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scottyj
Aug 10, 2006, 2:54 AM
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Looking for little falls climbing partner for the fall. Pm If interested.
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climbingbetty22
Aug 10, 2006, 5:50 PM
Post #554 of 700
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Moving to Queens in 5, 4, 3, 2....
I'm going from BFE to Queens- :wtf:
A different hell, but still of my own creation, so though the geogrpahical lo-cal changes, the state does not.
The positives??? Living with my favorite climbing partner an being 1.5 hours from the Gunks instead of 4 hours! :D
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taino
Aug 10, 2006, 6:33 PM
Post #555 of 700
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Have fun at Island Rock!
T
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plim
Aug 11, 2006, 10:41 AM
Post #556 of 700
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im headin out to NY aug 23-30 and im lookin for someone who knows his/her way around the gunks to show me around a bit. message me if you're interested in babysitting.
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wnyclimbs
Aug 12, 2006, 10:27 PM
Post #557 of 700
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Just wondering if anyone goes down to Olean or Little Valley to boulder in the Southern Tier?
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mountainman
Aug 13, 2006, 11:58 AM
Post #558 of 700
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Betty,
Welcome to Hell.
It's all how you make it.
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sethrd
Aug 13, 2006, 4:17 PM
Post #559 of 700
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Just thought I would add my name to the list of New York climbers. I'm not really a climber, but I'm interested in climbing, and am looking for someone to show me the ropes, technically and metaphorically. I'm in Syracuse, and as far as I know, Little Falls and Finger Lakes have some spots, but I don't know the first thing about climbing.
If anyone feels like teaching, send me a PM. =)
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all_that_is_rock
Aug 16, 2006, 6:51 PM
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holy crap there are alot of Gunkies in the tetons this summer. at least half the folks I've been climbing with this summer are from the gunks region in NY. one might call it a westward migration. it's odd how I've run into folks from NY in the tetons, devils tower, the neadles, and city of rocks this summer. we are frickin everywhere!!
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all_that_is_rock
Aug 16, 2006, 6:55 PM
Post #561 of 700
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P.S. anyone climbed "creation of the world" in the Daks? I hear that it's really rad and fairly hard. if I end up back in NY for a week or two would it be worthwhile to check out?
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ludloj
Aug 21, 2006, 12:33 PM
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Hey all, I'm looking for a Gunks (or other area, I'm totally open to travel) for weekday/weekend climbing for the rest of this summer.
Been climbing for almost 10 years now, but only seriously the last two years. I own a top rope setup and sport rack, but no trad, willing to follow though. 5.9 seams to be my upper limit at the Gunks, although I'm willing to try anything.
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lagarita
Aug 21, 2006, 11:42 PM
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I'm looking for outdoor climbing in the rockland coutny area of NY. The routes data base only shows indoor gyms in Westchester area. I live in CT but work in NY and I'm looking for a place to climb after work. Some place to top rope or boulder. If anyone has any information please share.
Thanks,
Sean
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climbia
Aug 24, 2006, 11:21 PM
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Is anyone going to the gunks for laborday?? :D I'm a visiting climber (iowa) and have the weekend off. I've got a rack and rope and car. Solid and safe. Currently in Scranton, PA area. I've never been to the gunks before and would really like to climb with someone who know the area. PM if interested. Please don't let me waste the weekend rope soloing / begging rides in the gunks. :lol:
John
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thestatusquo
Aug 25, 2006, 3:58 PM
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Hello,
I recently moved to NYC for law school and I'm looking for any possible partners. I don't know how much climbing I'll actually be able to do, but you gotta try.
I'm looking to maybe try the Gunks, I've never been there before. I'm a pretty new leader. Just started trad'ing this past March, I have a rope and full rack (more then full...) and I've been sport leading since last summer (full sport rack).
Most of my climbing is Seneca, WV (trad)....Franklin, WV (sport)..... and around the Tahoe, CA area when I started climbing a few years ago, not leading.
I'm easy to get along with, I don't have a car (living in Manhattan makes it unnecessary), but this lack of car makes it hard to....you know....drive anywhere to climb.
That's about it.
Joe
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d.ben
Deleted
Sep 5, 2006, 1:22 AM
Post #566 of 700
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I'm gonna be in the city friday sep. 15th and I wanna check out the bouldering in Central Park. Anyone interested in giving a little tour? (or If I went to Rat Rock, would I be able to just meet a local and get beta on the area) I'd be willing to return the favor as well. I can give a pretty good tour of Rumney. PM me if interested.
Dom
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yazzie
Sep 29, 2006, 2:23 PM
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I'm looking for a Gunks partner for Saturday, Sept. 30. I can follow up to 5.8 or the occasional 5.9 but can't lead. I'd be happy to provide transport from the metro NYC area.
Yasmin
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alpine_monk
Sep 30, 2006, 11:23 AM
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anyone? beta on creation of the world? how sandbaged is the fucker?
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westchesterclimbing
Oct 10, 2006, 9:47 PM
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Just wanted to let everybody know that we're premiering the latest Teton Gravity Research (www.tetongravity.com) ski and snowboard film at The Cliffs this Saturday.
TGR's newest flick "Anomaly" is having an advanced screening at The Cliffs at Valhalla. The trailer:
http://www.tetongravity.com/viewer/Clip_ANOMALYTEASER.aspx
It's this Saturday, Oct 14th. Doors open at 8 pm and the show starts at 9 pm. There's a limited amount of tickets so purchase them now at The Cliffs, American Terrain in White Plains, or any of the Pedigree Ski Shop locations.
After the film, there's a DJ and a FULL OPEN BAR sponsored by RedBull. There will also be raffles and prizes (including a dream ski vacation).
Check out www.TheCliffsClimbing.com or call 914-328-7625 for details.
See you there,
Mike W
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rock_n_chick1
Nov 9, 2006, 1:33 PM
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Keene Valley, we had the Beer Walls all to ourselves most of the summer.
I see the last post on this forum was May'05, just joined this site, wanna find out who you folks are climbing in keene, and the gunks as they are my closest playgrounds.
:?:
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Adk
Dec 2, 2006, 2:03 PM
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Rock-n, where you from? Moss Island may be an option for you.
Lots of climbs but nothing over 60-70 ft stuff.
If you look the posts are not listed last post first. LMBO
Maybe you figured that out.
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rolling_boulders
Dec 19, 2006, 1:23 AM
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I'm brand new to the site...I live right next to keene, gunks is a haul... anyhow lovely to see some people still climb in my neck of the woods
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GunksMonkey
Feb 5, 2007, 5:50 AM
Post #573 of 700
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Allright I am looking for some people to chill out and climb with. Anyone on Long Island that may be interested in climbing at the rock gym in Plainview? Or perhaps exploring some beach bouldering on the north shore.
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danielo108
Feb 23, 2007, 7:49 PM
Post #574 of 700
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Anybody have some info on bouldering conditions in Gunx right now.
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happiegrrrl
Mar 9, 2007, 6:43 PM
Post #576 of 700
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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Maaaaybeeee....maybe this weekend is going to be climbing weather at the Gunks. Yahooo - the season approaches!
I can't go out Saturday, but am considering a Sunday outing. Possibly just to go buy some shoes and R&S and have a deliscious salmon burrito before hopping back on the bus, but maybe to head to the cliffs(got to look into car rental - ouch).
I am interested in finding some god partners for the season too, whether it is new people or solidifying older partnerships. I would also be interested in mentoring a newish woman climber a bit.
Here is my deal:
For Potential Partners(including newish women looking for mentor)
- I lead up to 5.5G, follow up to 5.8
- Looking to increase confidence and efficiency in leading; hoping to get lots of mileage in the lower grades under my belt and begin leading some 6's this season.
- Right now, I have no car, but am hoping to buy one in the next month or two.
- I have a dog, Teddy, who often comes with me. He is a good crag dog and has references to support that.
- I like to spend weekends up there, preferring to arrive Friday pm, and leave Sunday PM.
- During trailwork season(appx. pril through October), I do trail work each Sunday if it's on. Can climb after, but I'm usually pretty tired, so take it easy.
- I got gear, f course.
- I believe in giving attentive, quality belay(and require the same).
For newish women looking for mentors):
- I am not looking to teach you skills, as I don't have the level of competence to take responsibility for another person. So - you MUST have some experince climbing outside, as well as a decent understanding on systems.
- I will be looking to get leads in on the "under 5.4 routes" with you, for the most part. Put mileage under my harness as a leader. So, this is an opportunity for you to get on the numerous easier, but still thrilling, Gunks routes and build your skills as a second.
- I am also interested in doing some TR on harder stuff over at Peterskill, after we have developed a solid foundation.
Interested parties can PM me. My profile also has a list of the routes I've been on, and says in the notes if I have led or followed(though it hasn't been updated to include the last month or so from the '06 season).
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Anyway..... That's it - Looking forward to seeing everyne out there this year.
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BenC
Mar 11, 2007, 1:55 AM
Post #577 of 700
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Registered: Mar 9, 2007
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Just moved to NY last fall, looking for a mentor so I don't kill myself doing something stupid this summer! April, May, June, or August in the Gunks, or wherever for that matter, anytime of the week just need a couple hours warning.
I've been climbing for about a year, really just want to follow someone and learn about building anchors and placing pro. Thanks Ben
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Adk
Apr 26, 2007, 12:45 PM
Post #578 of 700
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I just had to do it after seeing this thread sit here for over a month.
Climb safe and push your limits. The pro is there for a reason.
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brianharrington
May 11, 2007, 1:24 PM
Post #579 of 700
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to BenC
do you boulder at all? Im 15 min from Ithaca!
LMK
Brian
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yazzie
May 11, 2007, 4:29 PM
Post #580 of 700
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My partner and I are heading out this Sunday, May 13 to the Gunks. We can both follow up to 5.8 and my partner has just started leading easy climbs (5.3 - 5.5) but it would be great to have an experienced leader join us, seeing how it is our first outdoor climb of the season.
You can PM me or call me at 973-462-2413.
Yasmin
(This post was edited by yazzie on May 11, 2007, 4:33 PM)
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jackflash
May 14, 2007, 7:34 PM
Post #581 of 700
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Time has come today.
I've finished grad school and am moving to the Gunks! Oh sweet, sweet conglomerate roofs...My excitement is only dampened by the fact that I still haven't secured an apartment yet, and I start work on Wednesday.
See you all at the cliffs!
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happiegrrrl
May 14, 2007, 8:04 PM
Post #582 of 700
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Congratulations, Sean! Is your job in outdoors rec? Don't tell us you got hired by Mohonk presersve and are going to be stationed at the overlook making sure the skofflaws don't try to sneak in through the uberfall...hahaha.
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Adk
May 16, 2007, 12:03 AM
Post #583 of 700
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Sean, just hook up with Jerrod. I hear he just got a teaching job at Wallkill.
  
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bribone
Jun 3, 2007, 1:26 PM
Post #584 of 700
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I was looking through forums for info about climbing on Long Island and saw your post. Did you have any luck with the North Shore bouldering? I tried looking around when I first moved out here but haven't had much luck or time with it.
"Allright I am looking for some people to chill out and climb with. Anyone on Long Island that may be interested in climbing at the rock gym in Plainview? Or perhaps exploring some beach bouldering on the north shore."
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Chrisman98
Jun 4, 2007, 4:45 PM
Post #585 of 700
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Registered: Jun 4, 2007
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Hey everyone, I'm new to RC.com. i'm from PA and looking for a climbing partner for the Gunks this weekend. I can lead up to 5.6 and follow up to 5.9. I have my own gear also. Would prefer to follow someone due to my inexperience at the Gunks, but would be fine leading too. if anyone is free and interested this coming weekend( june 9-10) drop me a line and we can chat. thanks.
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yazzie
Jun 8, 2007, 6:37 PM
Post #586 of 700
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Looking for a partner who can lead this Sunday, June 10 in the Gunks. I can follow 5.7, some 5.8s. Have my own gear & car. Coming from central Jersey. PM me if interested.
Yasmin
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energynrhythm
Jul 2, 2007, 5:51 AM
Post #588 of 700
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Registered: Apr 4, 2006
Posts: 9
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Hey everyone....Ill be in the gunks for the month of july and ws hoping to get together with some folks to show me around....keep in touch
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roboclimber
Jul 9, 2007, 6:55 PM
Post #589 of 700
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Registered: Jun 17, 2004
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Hi,
I recently moved to New York. I currently live in Syracuse and I am looking to get out and climb. I am a resident surgeon at a local hospital so I only have one day off per week (currently it is Sunday). If you are interested in climbing, I would like to spend a couple of weekends at Little Falls, and then maybe a few more in the Adirondacks. I have my own gear for leading trad or sport and a few ropes. I am not a phenomenal climber (actually somewhat of a beginner) but I would like to get out climb! If you are interested, shoot me a reply.
Rob
(This post was edited by roboclimber on Jul 9, 2007, 6:56 PM)
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happiegrrrl
Jul 27, 2007, 6:29 PM
Post #590 of 700
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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Has anyone else found rc.com to have been scare fishing for partners this season? Or...do I have BO or something!????
Used to get tons of people who wanted to climb; the last few months...dry as a bone.
Anyway, I posted, yet again, for a partner for this Saturday(Gunks) and have no bites. Thought I'd try here, just in case....
- I will have my rope along - happy to join a party as a 3rd(if you are competant, not looking to join in a party with new leader this weekend)
- Can also take photos(I'm not great, but not so bad; my pictures have been appreciated by those who have had me shoot them).
- I will NIOT have my rack along, just rope/personal gear.
I'm headed out in 15 minutes, so will NOT be able to check back here on RC. I will be camped in Slime, arriving about 7pm. My tent is a Sierra Designs, blue with lt. grey. Stop by before 8:30 on Saturday and I'll be there.
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Stagz747
Aug 7, 2007, 1:43 AM
Post #591 of 700
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Registered: Aug 6, 2007
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looking to get into climbing and would like someone experienced to talk to in the area..Im in Utica,NY about ten minutes from little falls..reply if you think you can help me out
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Adk
Aug 7, 2007, 9:51 PM
Post #592 of 700
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1085
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Head to Moss Island this weekend and watch a bit. That is unless you have already climbed.
Go buy John Long's Book Climbing Anchors 1st edition., then the 2nd edition as wel.
Don't forget his book, How to Rock climb.
Hope this helps but this is all I can offer at the current time. Busy, busy, busy I am......
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Stagz747
Aug 8, 2007, 1:01 AM
Post #593 of 700
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id love to come down this weekend and watch..you have a day and time set when your gonna be there..ill come meet you there
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Adk
Aug 9, 2007, 5:27 AM
Post #594 of 700
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I'll be there both days but not for any introductions. Sorry
There will be plenty of people there for you to watch, etc.
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Stagz747
Aug 9, 2007, 8:02 PM
Post #595 of 700
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alright..thats cool..thanks for your help
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dr_gneiss
Aug 19, 2007, 9:03 PM
Post #596 of 700
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Registered: Aug 14, 2006
Posts: 11
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I'm looking to get some climbing in during my vacation wk, Aug 25-31. I lead 5.8G or so, and second 9s and some 10s. I have lots of experience, very safe with my own complete trad/sport rack and ropes. I'm a grad student and have the week off. I live in uptown NYC and can get a ride up and back, if not just take the bus.
I met three random guys one wknd in the Gunks off of rockclimbing.com last summer and it worked pretty well.
Best,
Ben
Email is best (not around for PMs much):
bikeforhiv at hot mail dot com
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GreenMonkee
Sep 17, 2007, 4:10 PM
Post #597 of 700
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Registered: Jun 10, 2007
Posts: 36
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Heading up to the Gunks this week and looking for partners. Call or leave a message and I'll get back to you.
908-967-2617
Leading up to Gunks .6
Rack and rope
~Antonio
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jeffro18
Oct 23, 2007, 8:06 PM
Post #598 of 700
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Registered: Feb 12, 2006
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Hi,
My name is Jeff. I used to live in NJ and would frequent the Gunks to climb often. I now live in CO and will be back East for a visit and looking to spend some time at the Gunks again.
Therefore, I am looking for partners between Halloween day and the 5th of November. I can lead up 5.9 comfortably. I have a trad rack. I consider myself a safe climber and I am also knowledgable of self rescue techniques as well.
I am planning on camping out during my time at the Gunks and would love to line up some climbing partners for my visit.
So, if anybody is interested in roping up together, contact me via cubanoclimber@yahoo.com or give me a call @ 732-232-3944
Bye for now,
Jeff
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catskillshiker
Oct 24, 2007, 9:07 PM
Post #599 of 700
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Registered: May 20, 2007
Posts: 59
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Hey,
Anybody plan on ice climbing in the catskills this winter?
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tigerlilly
Oct 24, 2007, 9:13 PM
Post #600 of 700
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catskillshiker wrote: Hey, Anybody plan on ice climbing in the catskills this winter?
Hah! Is there going to be any ice in the Catskills this year? I hope so. I got my first taste of ice climbing last year and would like to do more. Where I'm at, we're a week and a half overdue for a first frost, and I don't see anything that cold in the forecast....
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catskillshiker
Oct 24, 2007, 9:51 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2007
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Yea im getting worried. Im hoping to get some nice ice in this year.
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StephieG7
Oct 30, 2007, 3:38 PM
Post #602 of 700
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Registered: Oct 19, 2007
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Hello ... I just moved to the NYC area from Pa. and I'm looking for people to get out and climb with. I've been to the gunks (mostly for bouldering but also some trad) and am up for any trip there or in the area (heard Central Park has some bouldering...) on the weekends. I'm also looking for someone who might want to start a weekly or bi-weekly trip to a local gym to get into shape any time after 6 p.m. during the week. Again, I'm not too familiar with what's around but I'm always up for trying something new :) Looking to boulder/sport but have experience with TR and following on trad.
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mh72
Nov 3, 2007, 5:43 PM
Post #603 of 700
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Registered: May 7, 2006
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Hey All,
I will be relocating to NYC in December and was wondering what the best climbing gym would be for anyone living in Manhattan without a car.
It seems that the 59th St/CCC gym will be closing due to renovations, and the "best" gyms otherwise are either in New Rochelle or New Jersey.
Either way, I am looking for climbing partners interested in climbing weekends anywhere reasonable. I do 5.10 on toprope and have been climbing on and off for 7 years.
Female /35 years old / 105 pounds
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jgloporto
Nov 3, 2007, 6:05 PM
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mh72 wrote: Hey All, I will be relocating to NYC in December and was wondering what the best climbing gym would be for anyone living in Manhattan without a car. It seems that the 59th St/CCC gym will be closing due to renovations, and the "best" gyms otherwise are either in New Rochelle or New Jersey. Either way, I am looking for climbing partners interested in climbing weekends anywhere reasonable. I do 5.10 on toprope and have been climbing on and off for 7 years. Female /35 years old / 105 pounds
Get yourself one of those zip car memberships and drive to Jersey or Westchester. The city gyms are really subpar. Linky
Are you looking for outdoor partners on the weekends?
(This post was edited by jgloporto on Nov 3, 2007, 6:07 PM)
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mh72
Nov 3, 2007, 6:13 PM
Post #605 of 700
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I was absolutely looking for outdoor (gunks) partners as well, eventually, although I don't know what the outdoor weather will be like from December and forward... that was why my main mission right now was to find the "best" available gym, even if they are sub-optimal, just to get going and start off somewhere.
I can follow on 5.9s, but I really don't lead (yet...one of these days I'll get there).
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jgloporto
Nov 3, 2007, 6:25 PM
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mh72 wrote: I was absolutely looking for outdoor (gunks) partners as well, eventually, although I don't know what the outdoor weather will be like from December and forward... that was why my main mission right now was to find the "best" available gym, even if they are sub-optimal, just to get going and start off somewhere. I can follow on 5.9s, but I really don't lead (yet...one of these days I'll get there).
Chelsea Piers is nice but loaded with rich yuppie wankers trying to find an alternative to the jazzercise class. It's a little expensive too. The zip car thing would be the way I would go. What part of the city are you moving to?
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yves
Nov 15, 2007, 10:13 PM
Post #607 of 700
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Another point of view on Chelsea :
certainly the best climbing gym in NwYk although a little bit expensive (my fourth year in NwYK).
I would not qualify the climbers as "yuppie, etc ..."
but there is certainly a small core of climbers leading 5.11 and above and it is often difficult to find a partner on the spot, although it is possible.
Very good in particular to build up strength over a certain period , especially if you go after/at the same time to climb in the Gunks .
Y
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yves
Dec 13, 2007, 9:54 PM
Post #608 of 700
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Hi Castkillhiker
I am trying to send you a pm for some ice-climbing in the Cats.
Y.
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westchesterclimbing
Jan 7, 2008, 10:51 PM
Post #609 of 700
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The Cliffs at Valhalla is a good option. It's a 38 minute ride on the Metro North... If you come with 3 or more people, they'll pay your cab fare from the train station.
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happiegrrrl
Jan 7, 2008, 11:23 PM
Post #610 of 700
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Welcome to NY! As for gyms here in the city, I haven't really been to many of them. Chelsea IS the best one, but it's pricey. Of course, you get access to the whole facility, not just the rock wall.
Anyway - this last weekend, my friend and I went up to The Rock Club in New Rochelle. It's a bit of a pain to get to....Metro North railroad from Grand Central Station to N.Rochelle, and then a 15-20 minute walk.
I'd be happy to go up there and check it out with you on a weekend day if you'd like.
I'm looking for partners for the next season too, if you're interested. I am at the Gunks pretty much every weekend in season, though I don't climb Sundays(I do trailwork - BTW, we can always use volunteers and it's a great way to get a toehold into the climbing community). But - Saturdays definitely and it's possible I may get up some weekdays too.
I don't lead hard(up to 5.5), but I am pretty familiar with the place, and am looking for a good partner. Also happy to do some TR's to get some harder routes in.
Shoot me a PM if you're interested in talking more.
And, from what I hear the CCC is actually not closed yet. Haven't looked into it, but it seems they're just holding on, waiting to be told the place is closed.
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wormly81
Mar 26, 2008, 3:02 PM
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Morning Folks,
With the temperature hitting 45 degrees and sunny its time to stop driving up to the dacks and get into the rock season routine. I'm looking to hook up (ie climb with; sexual relations that affect my climbing are completely unacceptable :) ) with 5.8-5.9 leaders who climb almost every weekend at the Gunks. I work in manhattan and live out in the NJ burbs. If you or anyone you know spends most weekends at the gunks and likes starting early, moving fast, linking pitches, and keeping things low-key please get in touch.
Thanks,
Jeff
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Alphaboth
Apr 10, 2008, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2008
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Let's see, Pitchoff and Spider wall look good at the moment.
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Adk
Apr 12, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Moss Island has been great to climb recently. Today there were about a half a dozen people there not including myself and climbing partner.
Nice day it was after the morning winds dried everything out.
Last evening we climbed until dark.
Nice piece of booty I grabbed today after I spotted it last night.
If you know who I am and see me there and it's yours let me know and I will happily return it. I will first school you on how to retrieve your "stuck" gear.
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lagarita
Apr 13, 2008, 11:24 AM
Post #614 of 700
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Registered: Dec 23, 2004
Posts: 356
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Any NY climbers need a partner for tomorrow at the Gunks. It seems knowone from Connecticut wants to make the trip. I've got a rack, rope, gear etc. I've only been to the Gunks once and didn't get a chance to lead (was with a guide) and I really want to get out for the first time this season. As of right now the forecast looks good. But who knows what will happen.
Anyone interested drop me a line.
Later,
Sean
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brianharrington
Apr 16, 2008, 2:17 AM
Post #615 of 700
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Registered: Jan 16, 2007
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Any climbers Between Syracuse and Ithaca want to do some bouldering this weekend? Gunks or Little Falls?
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Adk
Apr 16, 2008, 11:43 PM
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I may be at the island later Saturday. I have an archery Ed Class to teach but once I get done there I will be needing some rock to relax on.
Sunday my plans are up in the air as of yet.
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happiegrrrl
Apr 17, 2008, 12:44 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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It looks like this is my first weekend in the Gunks of the season - yeah!!! I had 2 weeks in Jtree to start the season but it's not the same as being home.
Can't wait to see what this year brings.
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Adk
Apr 29, 2008, 10:10 PM
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The island was hoppping this past weekend. Moss Island.
(Sung to the tune from the Beverly Hill Billies)
Come to an island by the name of Moss
If you come better bring your floss.
If you don't, it will be your loss.
Go thank the mayor cuz he is the boss.
Rock I say...Rock
to be continued........
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RockNYC
May 1, 2008, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2007
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available to partner - love the gunks
can follow up to 5 9 and 5 10 on a better day.
rather climb outside than in!
will share cost of gas, etc.
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tombaisley
May 2, 2008, 3:20 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2008
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Do u still have to produce your "papers" and be subjected to an interagation at the police station to climb at Moss Island,
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Adk
May 3, 2008, 1:22 AM
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Not sure about that but you are supposed to do as you are requested and stop by to get a permit. To climb all day for $3 or $20 a season is pretty cheap.
I find it funny that people hate paying the $3 but will yap in their phone and get a ticket of $50 and not complain.
We all know that the island doesn't have much to offer but rock and the walk into town is a half mile of torturous hills (not).
If you do bring children you may be asked provide proof of guardianship. You can't have an 18 y/o bringing their 16 y/o girlfriend and claim to be the responsible adult.
I wouldn't doubt it if officer friendly stops by this year with pass book in hand. From what I know he didn't last year. It's good to show your face to them anyway.
The more people that pay the more that taxpayers will know how much use the area gets. The more this happens the better chance of $$ returning to the climbers there in some way. Picnic tables, port-a-pots,
planted trees for shade etc..
If only 50 passes are sold why invest any time or money in the area?? This idea has been passed around.
Many people got a $3 all day pass for free last year.
I'm sure that it will not continue forever.
Enough of the inconvenient daily pass system. Buy a year pass for $20 and never have to stop by to the guys in blue. That is what I do.
Hope to see you there
Climb on and climb hard!
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Adk
May 21, 2008, 11:24 PM
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Little Falls , the home to Moss Island is having their first Memorial Day Parade in quite some time this Monday. Hope to see a few of you sporting your 5.10 Guide shoes along the streets. The island is just a hop skip and a jump from all the local festivities. The island should be in good shape pending the grass gets mowed.
(This post was edited by Adk on May 21, 2008, 11:24 PM)
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mh72
May 23, 2008, 12:15 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2006
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Is anyone with a car planning on going to the Gunks this weekend? We are 3 climbers based in Manhattan that would love to carpool up with someone.
We have all necessary climbing gear and sufficient knowledge, the guy leads up to 5.9 and us two girls lead up to 5.5s.
If you plan on going there but don't want to carpool but just meet up there that's fine too, we are always looking for new climbing partners.
/Malin
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thestatusquo
May 23, 2008, 1:38 PM
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You know it seems that more people in NYC who climb have racks than cars. I have no car but I do have a rack and rope.
If no one has a car to drive up, I'd be willing to bus it up Saturday if there's someone who wants to climbing Saturday-Monday.
I did some 5.7's last week, looking to jump on some 5.8's.
Best,
Joe
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happiegrrrl
May 23, 2008, 3:12 PM
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hahaha - I don't know if it' was because I had my dog(probably was....) but I never was able to hook up the NYC/NP carpool thing when I tried to get it going.
And, when I had a van, people who wanted to catch a ride were always somehow...not understanding....that it cost more than $5 for their share of a round trip ride, nor that an ETD meant an actual time and not "somewhere around, give or take an hour...."
Here's my commute:
- No dog - Bus to NP, walk to in front of Guilded Otter, thumb out. Return - Walk to the overlook, see if anyone's headed into town, and if not, walk back to just bepfre the overlook, and stick my thumb out. Works like a charm.
- With Dog - Taxi to Grand Central, Train to Poughkeepsie, SUNY New Paltz students hired to take me to Camp Slime on Friday(or taxi at $50 plus tip, one way, which is what I am doing today - OUCH!). Return trip - reverse the order
Good luck though, and have fun.
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brownie710
May 26, 2008, 11:42 PM
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having lived in NP i can assure you that you getting rides most likely has to do with your gender (no offense intended just a thought) since i know my climber buddies wouldn't have a chance in hell of getting picked up at the hairpin!!! sketchy looking dudes to say the least
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happiegrrrl
May 27, 2008, 12:39 AM
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brownie710 wrote: ...since i know my climber buddies wouldn't have a chance in hell of getting picked up at the hairpin!!! sketchy looking dudes to say the least
Are you saying your friends are sketchy looking dudes, or that only sketchy dudes would pick them up!?
hahaha
Well....maybe it's because I am a girl, and not of the psycho-killer looking variation, but the way I learned about the ease of h/hiking between NP and the cliffs was from guys. So....I dunno!
I have and would pick up male hitchikers in the same way, but so far the only dude I've seen was a guy who told me stories of his rappelling antics. He was totally a sport rappeller, into going off gear anchors with redundant set ups and then the hike up to set up/tear down.... The cool little nooks and crannies in the rock, the plants, the free hanging descents.... But he just had no idea at all what fascination a person could find in climbing up the face!
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dudemanbu
May 28, 2008, 11:26 PM
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Hey everyone.
A couple of friends from ohio and I (connecticut) are planning on heading to the Daks in July. The problem is, I am the only trad leader, and there will be 6 of us.
Everyone can however, lead sport. Can anyone point me in the direction of some good sport in the area? I lead up to 11d/12a.
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thestatusquo
May 29, 2008, 4:01 AM
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The couple times I did hitchhike back down to New Paltz I had no problem getting a ride. I'm a non-sketchy looking guy.
I just need rides to the general area, not a partner.
Couldn't we start some sort of NYC-Gunks Ride Share program? I'm sure with these gas prices you wouldn't mind a little extra gas money if you're in a car with 2 empty seats. Eh? Eh? Eh?
I'll wear deodorant (at least on the way there), brush my teeth, and change out of horrid smelling wickaway clothes before I get in your car.
Any takers?
thejoe
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happiegrrrl
May 29, 2008, 1:43 PM
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You'd have better luck by making a separate thread, so more people see it and it becomes a sort of 'destination thread' for people looking to get up there each weekend. Maybe ball it "The Gunks Rideshare Thread" and people can posts what they can offer or are hoping to find in the way of rides as the days come up.
And good luck with it....I think you'll find the theory is easier than reality. But it would be really cool if it took off and became a sort of institution.
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feedmerocks
Jun 2, 2008, 10:28 PM
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happiegrrl, this is avatar infringement. -ped
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rockoniceone
Jun 5, 2008, 12:23 AM
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climbnyc.com is just back up and there's a rideshare tab. nothing much on it right now though.
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RockNYC
Jun 12, 2008, 2:57 PM
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What about this Sunday, June 15?
I am an excellent 2nd : )
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stevecurtis
Jul 1, 2008, 10:42 AM
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I'll be there this weekend, the 4th and more, In reply to: and lead trad at the same grade, 30 years experience. Please reply
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rivers1969
Jul 17, 2008, 1:03 AM
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hey have u made it to ny yet this summer.
rivers1969
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stoopid
Jul 21, 2008, 6:17 PM
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dudemanbu wrote: Hey everyone. A couple of friends from ohio and I (connecticut) are planning on heading to the Daks in July. The problem is, I am the only trad leader, and there will be 6 of us. Everyone can however, lead sport. Can anyone point me in the direction of some good sport in the area? I lead up to 11d/12a.
http://www.amazon.com/Adirondack-Rock-Climbers-Guide/dp/0981470203/
Worth every penny.
(This post was edited by stoopid on Jul 21, 2008, 6:17 PM)
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yogaboy
Aug 15, 2008, 12:45 PM
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Yo.
I'm looking for a partner to go to the gunks this weekend. Unfortunately I must label myself as a follower, rather than a leader as I'm new to the sport, but I'm a good follower! Hit me up if you need a partner, need more info, or whatever!
Thanks!
Neil
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yogaboy
Aug 25, 2008, 4:39 PM
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Hello. I'm looking to go to New River Gorge or the Adirondacks, Rumney, or anywhere around there for Labor Day weekend. I just want to get out, camp, and climb! Only problem is that I need an experienced, mellow, and safe leader to climb with. I've been climbing for 6 months now, so I suppose that's noobish. However, I love to climb and I'm a good partner. I don't mind driving. Hit me up if you're interested so we can work out the details.
Neil
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Cschramm
Sep 3, 2008, 4:00 PM
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Anyone climb at rock ventures in rochester? i work there now and im need of a good expierenced climber to make me not feel stupid about climbing and how i do it. Im a noob(let the comments roll in) and it sucks not being very good at something
be my partner and teach me stuff?
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tuscanwarlord
Sep 7, 2008, 4:01 PM
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I live in the ADK's.
I am always looking for new climbing partners.
Im also always up for a road trip to VT, MA, downstate, etc.
I prefer shorter challenging routes. I can climb 5.10ish if its the right layout, but I HATE HEIGHTS!!! Anything over 50' does not interest me! Creature wall is my limit height wise.
Lemme know.
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nilregrets
Sep 7, 2008, 4:51 PM
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Hey,
I’ll be moving into the North Creek area in the next month and be looking for partners. Prefer long trad routs 5.6 – 5.8 will gun for 9 and 10’s on a good day. Will lead, have rack but would not object to seconding on some harder stuff as well. Realistically any climbing is good climbing. Let me know if anyone is interested. PM or email tommerkt(at)gmail(dot)com
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robrock64
Nov 1, 2008, 4:42 PM
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Hi!!
sorry if I suddenly jump in here ... it seams a nice and crowdy topic
I am italian but next week I will be in NY for business and I will be free on Saturday, of course my first thought has been about climbing ...
Is anybody available to take me somewhere and let me taste US rock? :-) I will bring with me only harness and shoes
I lead up to 5.10c but I also like try harder, for your safety I am a good belayer :-)
hope to hear from somebody
Ciao
Roberto
robrock64@hotmail.com
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wormly81
Nov 2, 2008, 11:38 AM
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BUMP
Someone hook up Roberto and drag his ass up to the Gunks for the day. I wish I could but I'm out of town for the weekend.
Best of luck.
Jeff
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robrock64
Nov 2, 2008, 4:30 PM
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Tks Jeff!!!
Tomorrow I'll leave Italy and I am confident to find somebody over there ... so I will bring with me my staff :-) let's rock!
Ciaoooo,
Roby
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robrock64
Nov 7, 2008, 5:25 AM
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hey is anybody there?
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happiegrrrl
Nov 7, 2008, 6:22 PM
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Poor Robroick.... Better to post for partners as a separate thread, to get people's attention.
This NY Climbers thread is pretty quiet, unfortunately.
But!
If anyone IS reading it.....
This Sunday, 11/9, is the LAST day of trailwork (with Dick William's crew) for the 2008 season! If you've been thinking "I ought to help...." and never got around to it, here's your last chance til next year.
We are working at the trail that goes from the carriage road up to Shockley's Ceiling area. Moving a few big rocks to finish the top and also working along the cliffside area.
We meet at the Steel Bridge at 9am and head over. But, if you come late - just look for the large tool box stowed along the carriage road and head on up.
We'll finish up about 3pm. Supposed to be going to Brauhaus afterward for beers and burgers as a finale.
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robrock64
Nov 7, 2008, 8:11 PM
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ahahah Tks Happiegrrrl for your understanding
anyway today I climbed in a Gymn, better than nothing..it was fun.
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wormly81
Nov 7, 2008, 11:09 PM
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Roby... Check those PM's bud.
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Adk
Mar 14, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Moss Island at Little Falls has 90% of the routes open. There are some spots where the ground is wet such as the Jeff Loves Eileen area, actually very wet and the area of Dogville but areas such as the Dick and Carol and the FP Jones areas are dry.
Tomorrow will be in the low to mid 50s with little to no wind. Should be a good day there.
Maybe we can catch up there.
Dave
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brendeneng
Mar 23, 2009, 4:06 PM
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Anybody know if anything at POKO is dry enough to rock climb?
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happiegrrrl
Mar 23, 2009, 4:31 PM
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woohoooo! Season is here!!!!!
I am heading out to Joshua Tree on Thursday for 2 weeks, to start myself off. Didn't go to the Gunks this weekend and it sounds like that may have been a good thing. A few accidents, with one person in pretty serious situation. My thoughts go out to that person, and his family and friends in this difficult time.
I'm returning to NY and will likely begin my Gunks season on the weekend of 4/9. As usual, I look for partners to climb with throughout the season. Here's my situation:
- I lead up to 5.5, going to be doing some easiers on my first few weekends, to get back into things.
- I follow up to 5.8 face, can try harder. Am rather experienced with prussiks and have had several compliments on my ability to use them efficiently....
- Happy to belay on harder routes for those who usually can send without falling. NOT interested in belay slaving for people who are testing limits as a matter of course(hangdogging)
- Looking for people to follow on occassion, but also for partners to get on 5 and unders, swinging leads. Newish leaders welcome, but will want to have a good idea as to what you have done beforehand.
In the beginning of the season, I can climb both Saturday and Sunday. Trail work begins near the end of April, and then I can climb only Saturdays.
I would be happy to do ground school gear placement work with newbies on Sunday afternoons after trail work - From about 3pm - 5pm.
I usually get up there on Friday evening and stay at Camp Slime. Head home Sunday evenings. Possibly will be adding Fridays available to climb.
I have no car. Will meet people at the cliff.
Jave a good season everyone, and be safe!
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Adk
Mar 23, 2009, 4:53 PM
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brendeneng wrote: Anybody know if anything at POKO is dry enough to rock climb?
That I do not know. I can say that if the slope faces south from what I have seen it's climbable.
Remember that the state campground will be closed this entire season.
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Adk
Mar 23, 2009, 4:56 PM
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HG, have fun in JT. I believe that you will take pics like before? I hope so.
Be careful.
Dave
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happiegrrrl
Mar 23, 2009, 5:31 PM
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Adk wrote: HG, have fun in JT. I believe that you will take pics like before? I hope so. Be careful. Dave
Pictures? Oh yes....though it would be nice if I could get some good climbing shots this time, too. Here's the spring flowers from 2008. I haven't seen word about how they're looking this year. haven't asked but if they were really good, I think I would have seen photo threads about it on Stopo....
http://www.squidoo.com/Joshua-Tree-Flowers
About being careful - you got that right. After reading the accounts of accidents at the Gunks this w/end, and with Woody's passing away in JTree, I have to admit I am a little weirded out. Definitely going to be careful. And, for the first time in like 3 years, I've got my helmet packed.
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brendeneng
Mar 24, 2009, 11:17 PM
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Class Canceled! I need a partner to hit up POKO before the route closures. Have full lead rack, gimme a shout if your free to climb.
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brendeneng
Mar 29, 2009, 7:46 PM
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Anybody know if the Palisade Cliff is dry enough to climb?
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lagarita
Apr 1, 2009, 12:43 PM
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Anyone available to climb in the Gunks on Thurs?
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brendeneng
Apr 16, 2009, 1:22 AM
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Anyone know the beta for aid gear at the King Wall?
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cush
Apr 16, 2009, 3:42 AM
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is palisade cliff the cliff right on the hudson directly across from untermeyer park in yonkers? if so, i thought climbing was prohibited? if i'm wrong and climbing is allowed then HELL YES!
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c4c
Apr 19, 2009, 11:48 AM
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brendeneng wrote: Anyone know the beta for aid gear at the King Wall?
lots of quickdraws
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happiegrrrl
Apr 30, 2009, 7:06 PM
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Mannnn.....I would prefer a more definitive rain forecast for the Gunks right about now. Like "yes or no" - rain or not. Tjis 30-40% chance BS just is really irritating.
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cracklover
Apr 30, 2009, 9:37 PM
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How was J Tree?
GO
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happiegrrrl
May 1, 2009, 12:31 AM
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Jtree was great, as usual. I still haven't edited the photos though.... Lots of lizards this time, and I bought a new lens, so could get some pretty good shots of the shy little guys.
The highpoint was getting to tag along with T.Gordon and his friends way back in the Queen Mountain area while he led a route called "Five Barmaids in my Pocket" or some such name. More than 2 hours hike in, through some terrain I'd never have attempted alone. Everyone else made it up the climb. I fell off at the crux....here's me just before that:
He offered to haul me through the crux so I could try the rest, but I lowered....I pretended it was the honorable thing to do, but the reality was that I was pretty sure that if I did get through the rest of the route, I would not have been too tired to get back to the trailhead!
edited for clarity
(This post was edited by happiegrrrl on May 1, 2009, 5:36 PM)
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cracklover
May 1, 2009, 4:34 PM
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Sounds like a good trip! I've never met the guy, but he seems like an incredible powerhouse. Any time someone asks a question about some area I've hardly even heard of, he has a half dozen pictures of himself doing FA's in that area!
I swear to god, it seems like he's done FA's in every climbing location on earth!
GO
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brendeneng
Jul 28, 2009, 1:29 PM
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I was just at the beer walls yesterday and it looks like a large section or rock de-laminated from the base of the cliff just to the right of Pegasus....looks like all fresh rock and I don't remember it at the beginning of this season. Has anyone else noticed this?
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snowbird
Aug 14, 2009, 7:46 PM
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I'm looking for a partner next Tuesday 8/18 through 8/20 to climb at the Gunks. I lead 5.9 and follow 5.10. I live in Utah and don't get much opportunity to get back to Gunks so anyone that wants to climb please hit me up. Thanks Matt.
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happiegrrrl
Aug 24, 2009, 2:35 AM
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BIG NEWS! I am going to be living at the Gunks! The caretaker's cabin at the Coxing Kill area became available and I got the gig. I'll be living - ON - the Mohonk Preserve!
Actually, I already started this weekend, and stayed in the cabin. SO nice to have a comfy bed, and a place to cook out of the rain.... hahaha. Teddy likes it too.
I leave NYC on Friday, and will be up there through November.
Sort of available to climb, if anyone is looking for a partner..... Sundays are trailwork day for me, but other than that...open!
If interested, send me a PM. I'll be still in the city for a few days but after that my internet access will be sporadic. I'm thinking I'll be able to check in every 2 or 3 days, but don't know as of yet. I will have no car, at least for a while. So - last minute by email won't work the best - but if you are planning a trip in the future, or just want to touch base/exchange info - let me know!
WEEEEEEEE!
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cracklover
Aug 25, 2009, 2:48 PM
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happiegrrrl wrote: BIG NEWS! I am going to be living at the Gunks! The caretaker's cabin at the Coxing Kill area became available and I got the gig. I'll be living - ON - the Mohonk Preserve! Actually, I already started this weekend, and stayed in the cabin. SO nice to have a comfy bed, and a place to cook out of the rain.... hahaha. Teddy likes it too. I leave NYC on Friday, and will be up there through November. Sort of available to climb, if anyone is looking for a partner..... Sundays are trailwork day for me, but other than that...open! If interested, send me a PM. I'll be still in the city for a few days but after that my internet access will be sporadic. I'm thinking I'll be able to check in every 2 or 3 days, but don't know as of yet. I will have no car, at least for a while. So - last minute by email won't work the best - but if you are planning a trip in the future, or just want to touch base/exchange info - let me know! WEEEEEEEE!
Congrats! I've lived off the grid for short periods of time. You're in for an adventure.
Enjoy!!!
GO
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happiegrrrl
Aug 25, 2009, 3:16 PM
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Thanks! Well...this is about as close to on grid as one can be and still be off grid. There's even a landline telephone(which is for preserve use in emergency, but I can make local calls on it if I want to). It's not right in the cabin, so easy enough to ignore, and that is my intention.
But I am going to be internet accessing via mobile set up every few days. Still - I can't imagine how jarring it will be to come back to NYC at the end of this.... Yesterday I had to go to Century 21(mega huge discount Dept Store) and the crowds and overwhelming quantities of STUFF for purchase was a sensory overload, and not in a good way.
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Adk
Sep 19, 2009, 6:19 PM
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Congrats Happy!!!!
Glad that you're out of the city breathing real air on a daily basis.
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c4c
Sep 20, 2009, 11:53 AM
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what an awesome gig Happie!
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mountainman
Sep 20, 2009, 4:56 PM
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congrats, maybe it's time for a road trip....
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dschmon
Nov 10, 2009, 2:46 AM
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Hello all!
My boyfriend and I just moved to NY. He is an experienced climber from Mexico - I am beginner/intermediate - but neither of us have our own gear nor know the area at all. We are looking for climbing partners who have extra gear to lend (or rent) and show us some neat sites. Also, are there organized groups that go out regularly? Our schedule is very flexible, we hope to meet fellow climbers who can "show us the ropes" of NY. We are so anxious to get out on the rock again!
Looking forward to hearing from you,
Daphne
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happiegrrrl
Mar 22, 2010, 7:20 PM
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Some of you must have been out climbing this last weekend...It sure was gorgeous weather, and I was stuck in NYC. Grrrr
But, I am leaving for Joshua Tree next Tuesday - wooh!
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susitnadog
Apr 25, 2010, 3:56 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2010
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I am looking for a partner for the frist week of may in NY i am comeing from portland OR and want to climb as much as poss let me know if your in late seth
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dantherastaman
May 15, 2010, 12:59 AM
Post #678 of 700
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Registered: May 13, 2010
Posts: 1
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lookin for people to climb with anytime during the summer months. I've got mostly indoor rock experience and I've done some climbing at King Phillip's wall and Pok-O-Moonshine as well as Owls Head and at Chapel Pond. I don't have my own transporation or gear but will be more than happy to contribute good stories, a good climbing partner, and gas money
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fool
May 15, 2010, 6:07 PM
Post #679 of 700
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Registered: Dec 14, 2006
Posts: 20
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I just moved up to the western side of the Adirondacks and am looking for a weekend partner, climbing all day Saturdays and at least half days on Sundays. Have rack, rope, car, etc. and love to climb. Contact me if you're interested.
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bogwon
May 16, 2010, 4:04 PM
Post #680 of 700
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Registered: Jan 2, 2009
Posts: 9
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Come and enjoy all you wish at the Dehedrals Chimney Rock or the Wind Wall and all points in between in Little Falls, however, make sure you have permission from the owner each and every time you attempt to access my land. I can be reached at 315 508 5316 or my cell at 315 219 9923.
Michael F. Lonis
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per.andersson
Sep 14, 2010, 3:41 AM
Post #681 of 700
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Registered: Dec 2, 2009
Posts: 81
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Partner wanted for The Gunks 20-22 of September. Looking to climb some classics up to 5.9. Will be driving or taking a bus from NY on Sunday evening or Monday morning. See my profile for more details.
Cheers
Per Andersson
3039135084
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yogaboy
Oct 6, 2010, 12:05 PM
Post #682 of 700
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Registered: Apr 21, 2008
Posts: 26
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Looking for a partner for climbing the gunks tomorrow (Thursday 10/7/10). I know, fat chance considering that there's not been a post in this forum for a few weeks but thought it worth a shot. Check my profile for more info.
Thanks!!
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lukag
Mar 1, 2011, 10:27 PM
Post #683 of 700
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Registered: Feb 21, 2011
Posts: 2
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Hi all!
I'm from eu (near Venice) and will be in NY at start of April for a few days. Can you recommend me some climbing places around?
I'm fine with all types of climbing.
If somebody want's to join me for belay I'll be more than happy:)
Best,
Luka
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skaplan
Mar 4, 2011, 4:20 PM
Post #685 of 700
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Registered: Mar 19, 2010
Posts: 17
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Anybody been to the Gunks recently and have a report on the conditions?
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happiegrrrl
Mar 4, 2011, 4:46 PM
Post #686 of 700
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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I don't know about the Gunks, but the birds and lizards are out in force, and the wildflowers have already begun blooming in Joshua Tree. IT'S SPRING!
And you know what? IF I was at the Gunks today, and if it wasn't seeping wet and winter-chilled, I do believe I would have the head to lead High E.(Lets' see how long it takes me to get it up on that route when it's actually available to me....hahahaha).
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sknowlton
Mar 4, 2011, 5:03 PM
Post #687 of 700
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Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 99
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+1 on High E.
(Love J-Tree BTW)
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gblauer
Moderator
Mar 5, 2011, 2:14 PM
Post #688 of 700
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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skaplan wrote: Anybody been to the Gunks recently and have a report on the conditions?
The trail from the trapps lot to the cliff is an ice flow. I was happy to have my microspikes today. Much of the carriage road is covered in ice pack. The trails to the climbs are clear. The climbing itself is great (today, 50 degrees, no sun). The rock was try, sometimes slimy in pods, cracks or muddy on horizontals. Had a great time climbing today...
(This post was edited by gblauer on Mar 5, 2011, 9:25 PM)
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happiegrrrl
Mar 13, 2011, 11:20 PM
Post #689 of 700
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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Hopefully the carriage roads are clearing, and the pre-season countdown has begun! My official stance on the Gunks season has always been 3/20 through 11/20.
But even so.....I had intended to be back to NY for 5/1 and now it is looking more like 5/15. That is...if the van problem that has now just shown up isn't debilitating to my traveling. It looks like fuel delivery-related, but haven't had anyone take a look yet. Pray for something simple!
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gblauer
Moderator
Mar 13, 2011, 11:25 PM
Post #690 of 700
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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Trails and carriage road are clear.
Trapps parking lot was nearly full on Saturday/Sunday this weekend. Rock was wet, lots of climbers wandering around looking for dry terrain.
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happiegrrrl
Mar 13, 2011, 11:35 PM
Post #691 of 700
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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Welcome to the Gunks!
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lukag
Mar 24, 2011, 8:32 AM
Post #692 of 700
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Registered: Feb 21, 2011
Posts: 2
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Shockabuku thanks for the tips!
Does anybody wish to join me at Gunks for the next weekend?
Or at least some bouldering At Central park next week afternoon? Think we''ll have some sun .
Regards
Luka
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Genevive
Jul 2, 2011, 6:02 PM
Post #693 of 700
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Registered: Jul 2, 2011
Posts: 1
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Hey my name is Genevive, I'm 22 and looking for a climbing partner for this summer. I live about 30 minutes from the gunks and climb about a 5.6- 5.7. I have not led anything yet, but looking to improve my skills greatly this season. Looking for someone who has a great sense of humor and might wanna share a beer after an awsome day of climbing!
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GreenMonkee
Jul 19, 2011, 2:12 AM
Post #694 of 700
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Registered: Jun 10, 2007
Posts: 36
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I'm back!!!
That is all...
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climbingbetty22
Nov 9, 2011, 7:55 PM
Post #695 of 700
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 1538
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I live 20 minutes from the Ridge and 45 minutes from Catskills ice. Most of my friends/climbing partners are guides, so on the weekends, when I have off, they are working. Hence I'm in the market for some climbing partners that are available on the weekends. See profile for more details about me. Don't get to check rock climbing.com that often, so if interested, please send me an email at climbingbetty22 at hotmail dot com.
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mountainman
Nov 10, 2011, 12:58 AM
Post #696 of 700
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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Good luck and think ice!!!
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odile
Mar 26, 2012, 4:18 PM
Post #697 of 700
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Registered: Dec 12, 2008
Posts: 43
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Hy
somebody search partner ( regular) por keene and around? :)
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GreenMonkee
Sep 23, 2012, 11:38 PM
Post #698 of 700
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Registered: Jun 10, 2007
Posts: 36
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Reel Rock is coming to New Paltz on October 6
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Tradster1240
Apr 19, 2013, 4:31 PM
Post #699 of 700
(17008 views)
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Registered: Mar 24, 2012
Posts: 10
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Hi All
I have a couple weeks of vacation coming up and I'm looking for climbing partners on the following dates:
4/25,4/26,4/30,5/1,5/2, and 5/3. I'm down for climbing in MA, CT, NY, or NH.
Email me if any of those dates work.
Rick
rbarus1240@yahoo.com
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Arno.Chamonix
Sep 6, 2013, 12:17 AM
Post #700 of 700
(16386 views)
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Registered: Sep 1, 2013
Posts: 2
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Hi,
I will be travelling on the East Coast and searching for climbing partners the two next weeks :
- between 9/12 and 9/18 in new york for one or two sessions of bouldering in the parks.
- around thursday 9/19 in the Gunks (or wednesday evening, driving from Newark)
- around thursday or friday 9/20 near Rumney
- around friday or saturday 9/21 in North New Hampshire
Feel free to contact me if any of these days you want to climb.
my mail : arno.climb@gmail(dot)com
phone : 303-396-385three
Cheers, Arnaud
(This post was edited by Arno.Chamonix on Sep 6, 2013, 11:36 PM)
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