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krga20
Jun 22, 2005, 2:51 AM
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What is the most recent route/problem you've done. Trad, bouldering, sport or mountaineering adventures... Please include where it was and all the interesting invents. Its been over two weeks since I've touched rock...
adios!
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roughster
Jun 22, 2005, 3:04 AM
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In reply to: What is the most recent route/problem you've done. Trad, bouldering, sport or mountaineering adventures... Please include where it was and all the interesting invents. Its been over two weeks since I've touched rock... adios!
Last time out did 2 new route FAs:
Internet SuperHero 5.10c 9 bolts
Ginormous 5.10a 6 bolts
Both of them at the every growing crag of DTSA.
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bandycoot
Jun 22, 2005, 3:26 AM
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Insomnia: 5.11b/c up at Suicide. The guide says something along the lines of "Best crack climb in Idyllwild." I flashed it two weeks ago, and wanted to lead it again for a workout. I liked it better the 2nd time since the first time I found it very awkward and it took me a long time to figure out.
Sidenote: The weekend before I was cut in front of in line by a Hungarian on another route and told my friend about it. He wanted to do that same route and said something like "I just hope we don't get cut in front of, damn Bulgarians," (he got the country wrong). Right at that moment a guy by himself comes up the deserted trail and hears. He stops and gives my friend a cold stare and says, "What's wrong with Bulgarians?" in a European accent. My friend turns and says, "Nothing, why?" The newcomer replies, "I'm from Bulgaria...." :lol:
Later my friends and I were laughing our asses off. The timing was perfect! None of us had ever even met someone from Bulgaria before and here, out of nowhere, at the perfectly wrong time was a Bulgarian! We ended up climbing with him and he lead Insomnia as well making it look like a stroll in the park!
Hristo, if you see this, send me an e-mail and let's climb together again sometime! I'd love to do The Vampire again!
Josh
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krga20
Jun 22, 2005, 3:32 AM
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That's strange, the last route I was on was the 'Vampire'. Funny...
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strokies
Jun 22, 2005, 3:35 AM
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the birth canal 5.9 at Bozoo Rocks in West Virginia. TR, I'm a beginner but I'd like to sport soon. Threw down rope, ready to go, then threw my mat, of course it hooks a ledge about 40 ft up. frustrating, but it was fun rapping to it.
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timd
Jun 22, 2005, 3:36 AM
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I'll start off by saying I lead 5.8 rock. I've started working on a 5.10B in Rifle Mountain Park called Good Moanin. Noe it's a real sight to see. Polished at the start. As I previously stated I lead 5.8 so it's rather comical to see me flailing around up there. But, what the hell it's all good
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skinner
Jun 22, 2005, 3:49 AM
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After almost a month and a half of rain, finally the sun appears on Fathers Day. We picked a cliff that I have been wanting to do an FA on for years. It has an awesome overhanging block with a single crack running through, and over it that will only accept knife-blades.
http://www.netspy.net/...h/fx/wet-n-slimy.JPG
Unfortunately I will be going back to complete it when it dries up. The run-off was so bad that there was a constant stream of water running over the route (visible in photo).
But we still managed to get out climbing and made it to a point just below the overhang, placed one bolt, waded across 2 creeks (that had never been there before) to get back to the car . My son and I drove home with the heater blowing full blast trying to dry off and warm up.
What a perfect Fathers Day :D
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crazyscuba
Jun 22, 2005, 3:56 AM
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we did cathedral in tuolomne last sunday the 19th. we drove to the gate at 6:30 and since the meadows still arent open to cars we biked to the trail head. the hike in was full of snow and was a blast. the climbing actually wasnt that good. 40-50 mph winds ruined it for us. it was still fun but just a bit scarier. the best part was not seeing a single person all day long! the hike back went quick but the 7 mile uphill bike out ate me alive. my partner is a road biker so he was fine but i was on a pos mountain bike and it took me a solid 2-3 hours to huff it out. one of the few days i'll probably remember till the day i die. it was really eerie not to see anyone down there the whole day! enjoyed it but i cant wait till the road opens.
steve
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crackmd
Jun 22, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Spent the weekend a few weeks back in Zion. Got on Shune's Buttress which I have been pining over for many years. Was fortunate to hit it on a strong day and got the onsight despite being rained on on 2 separate occasions while on the route. Despite the rain we pushed on through the 3rd pitch offwidth which was quite a miserable experience on wet rock. Luckily the rain stopped for the awesome crux pitch at the top. This pitch was 5.11 fingers and hands through a roof with nothing but air below you and all set in the grandeur of Zion. Simply unforgettable!
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davidji
Jun 22, 2005, 5:05 AM
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My last route was Candyland at Phantom Spires. For a short pitch (only requires a single rope rap), it was a pretty amazing climb.
On the lower part, you're slinging slightly overhung knobs for pro. Small cams and nuts fit up near the top. The topo called the lower part 5.10b, and the upper finger crack part 5.10c. The lower part felt harder to us.
It was my partner's lead, but he bailed after his second slung knob before making the crux, so I got to finish. I'm taller and I think I have longer arms, both of which probably helped.
My first real look at the climb was when setting up to rap from Candyass (a neighboring climb that felt easier although it was rated harder at 5.10d). From above CL looked pretty easy. From below it looked more serious: the huge knobs looked pretty spread out, and it was steeper than I had noticed from above.
If I do it again, I'll either practice my one-handed knob slinging & knotting skills (it's overhung: make those slings secure) or toprope. Really fun climb, but getting a well-protected redpoint would be quite an achievement.
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vegastradguy
Jun 22, 2005, 5:09 AM
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My last route of note was a FA out in Black Velvet with my partner Larry DeAngelo- it lies just to the right of Frogland and goes about 5.8ish.
It turned out to have one of the best finger cracks i've climbed in Red Rock on the 2nd pitch along with a really airy couple of moves up higher.
We thought it turned out to be almost as good as Frogland and just as long.
You can find it in the RoutesDB under Whiskey Peak.
Bourbon Street, 5.8
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areuinclimber
Jun 22, 2005, 5:43 AM
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i dragged my brother up ejesta (5.8) this past saturday at reed's pinnacle in yosemite. he flipped at the exposed belay on pitch 2. i was dying with laughter. :lol: but the second pitch is an excellent crack. just sinker all the way to the top.
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march
Jun 22, 2005, 6:08 AM
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Fingertrip Traverse at Tahquitz, California last weekend.
An easy, but fun route I led. This was my first trip to Tahquitz - What a cool rock with some awesome scenery. Have to admit the approach was a pain in the a$$ though! Despite that, can't wait to get back up there again.
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ihuang
Jun 22, 2005, 6:30 AM
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Valhalla at Suicide. What an incredible route!
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climbinginchico
Jun 22, 2005, 7:41 AM
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When I get back after my next 2 days in the Valley, it will be Royal Arches and Snake Dike.
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pawilkes
Jun 22, 2005, 10:50 AM
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my last route of the weekend was my hardest send on gear, i onsighted Rock Wars (5.10a) at Long Wall in the Red River Gorge. i went into the final section, a diagnal crack with no feet, and realized that i had just placed the cam that i needed to protect that section of the route. i thought about proceding but my feet and one hand popped. i managed to hold on and in the pannic ii tried putting in a bigger cam but the placement was crap and when i clipped it it came out. i down climbed back to a ledge, swapped out my #5 Flex cam that i needed for the roof with a bomber hex and then went back and slammed that cam in the upper crack. popped an alien in up higher, almost fell again, and then managed to get to the anchors and jam a new bar in a flake crack while i desperately tried to clip the anchors. i thought i was going to die on that route. thats what i get for pushing my limits. oh yeah, the route was featured in the Trad issue of one of the big climbing mags as being one of the best Trad lines in the country and it is. super cool route.
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boulderror
Jun 22, 2005, 11:13 AM
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a pumpy 5.13a sport route in freyr (belgium). some time ago thought because of my exams.2 more weeks to go without any climbing:(.
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jcshaggy
Jun 22, 2005, 11:34 AM
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Been working Chamber of Secrets 5.12a at Chosspile, South Africa-not hardest route I've tried but I'm battling to link the sequence through a big roof.
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sevrdhed
Jun 22, 2005, 11:56 AM
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I went and did this .11b up Big Cottonwood Canyon that's hardly even a sport climb. It's three bolts placed like 5 feet apart, so it's really more like a V2/V3 boulder problem. We were going to climb something else there after we came down, but we got rained out.
Steve
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andy_reagan
Jun 22, 2005, 12:06 PM
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Never could quite link the fingery crux of Pump Up the Volume, 5.12b, in Rumney. Fun moves just damn hard to string together!
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marcel
Jun 22, 2005, 2:05 PM
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None of the routes I climb have names. :lol:
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jerseyclimber
Jun 22, 2005, 2:33 PM
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Bunny...5.4...The Gunks.........ya....I'm a hardman.
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angry
Jun 22, 2005, 3:09 PM
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Last wednesday I did the Petit Grepon
Thursday I soloed Handjacker, Oslands Delight, Lower Progressive, and backed off Stinkzig at Vedauwoo.
Friday I climbed Womans Work, Soft Parade, and I'd Rather be in Philadelphia, still in Vedauwoo
Sunday I climbed Gobblers Grunt, Quivering Quill, Whimsical Dreams, and Unicorns in the South Platte.
Mostly I've been riding my bike this week, I'm hoping to get to eldo tomorrow.
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pt
Jun 22, 2005, 7:57 PM
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Posts: 400
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Days of Heaven in RMNP. One of my favorite routes of all time.
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barnes33
Jun 22, 2005, 8:44 PM
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working on some FAs @ a new crag along the delaware river in ny. havent named or graded any of them yet. dont ask where cause i wont tell. they're mine, all mine!
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gunksgoer
Jun 22, 2005, 9:37 PM
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Snooky's Return at the gunks... and no i didnt place all passive gear i snuck a cam or two in. Great route.
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philfell
Jun 22, 2005, 9:45 PM
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Last time I climbed was my first time at the Gunks. It was last thrusday, we got rained on most of the day, but still managed to get in a few easier climbs, I think the last one we did was Kens Crack, was great locks that climb had on it, it felt secure even though it was wet.
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wanderinfree
Jun 22, 2005, 10:12 PM
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Commitment (5.9) to Selengenella (5.8) in Yosemite. 7 pitches, and not enough water for my partner and I. DOH! Absolutely amazing views though. Can't wait to get back.
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jt512
Jun 22, 2005, 10:27 PM
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I've made two on-ascents of To Hell and Back (12d/13a) at Williamson, one on-lead, and one on-toprope.
-Jay
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musicman
Jun 22, 2005, 10:41 PM
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In reply to: Bunny.............hardman.
haha, funny how those words go together so well! j/k, i just did a multi-pitch 5.4 about a week ago.
my last route, suicideblondeup American Fork Canyon, my second 5.11b redpoint!! wooo!!! i'm going for another tomorrow morning, Corona, so, hopefully i'll come back with one more
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tysonsugihara
Jun 22, 2005, 10:57 PM
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The last route for me was Utah wall in Ogden Canyon .8 trad. Nice route for laps.
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treyfrancisclimbs
Jun 22, 2005, 11:05 PM
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My last route was also my first trad lead. Tinker Toys 5.9 Rock Canyon. Got a new nut stuck. My tradding mentor and I both bashed on it for a total of 35 minutes to no avail, but luckily he works at the gear shop so he gave me another really cheap.
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drake
Jun 22, 2005, 11:13 PM
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The Harvard route on Mt Huntington AK. AK grade 5, 5.9, A2, WI4.
Interesting note was that my partner wanted to go home 1000' above base camp. I joined 2 other guys climbing up behind us and my partner rapped down and sat in bc while we were on the route. They ended up being better partners. As a buddy recently put it, I cashed in at the karma bank and cleaned out my savings.
Currently looking for a new alpine partner.
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pbjosh
Jun 22, 2005, 11:19 PM
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Schwazzle-Dazzle @ The Quarry (11a?) onsight, then go worked on The Saint (13b?) for a while - spankfest.
BTW wth is an on-ascent? Some upgraded form of hangdogging? Because if you redpointed it you'd call it that, certainly, and if you TR'd it clean, you'd call it that but you on-ascended it on lead and TR? I'm confused.
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ikefromla
Jun 22, 2005, 11:23 PM
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a boulder problem in california.
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jt512
Jun 22, 2005, 11:27 PM
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In reply to: BTW wth is an on-ascent? Some upgraded form of hangdogging? Because if you redpointed it you'd call it that, certainly, and if you TR'd it clean, you'd call it that but you on-ascended it on lead and TR? I'm confused.
You know, an "on" ascent. You see them all the time in picture captions: Joe Climber "on" Shredder 5.16b.
So, no, you're not confused at all. ;)
-Jay
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azblazer18
Jun 23, 2005, 12:15 AM
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My last climb was the monk 5.7 at camelback mountain. My first taste of some exposure, it wasn't too bad though. Great rap, my first overhang rap as well. Had a great time. Love the view from up there.
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outsideguyzak
Jun 23, 2005, 12:43 AM
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the last route i did was Rage 12c and extension of Pet Cementary 11a in Obed, TN. It is a huge/sweet roof!
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andrewbanandrew
Jun 23, 2005, 8:26 AM
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The Son of Jesus, at Exit 32, Washington. I fell above the second to last bolt :(
I need to go back and do it clean later this summer when my hand is better.
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kingjawsh
Jun 23, 2005, 9:52 AM
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Captain Hook (V7) at the Glen
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azrockclimber
Jun 23, 2005, 11:51 AM
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I rescued a cat from a backyard tree the other day.... there was a neighborhood crowd and the cat was up the tree about 50'...not easy for average joe but easy for a climber...like 5.7...it was fun. I was walking by in my flops, asked what was up, looked at the tree, dropped my pack and went after the cat. It was even funnier because of the oooohs and ahhhs that I got..!! haha...actually coming down with the cat was pretty damn difficult!
---no the best rock around here.
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austinclmbr
Jun 23, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Diving for rocks 5.10d sport route soooo close to an onsight but made it after one fall, came back half an hour latter for a redpoint
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cruxmonger
Jun 23, 2005, 2:50 PM
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I climbed Daily Grind (5.11a 9 bolts) last night at Willow River State Park. It was a really fun, really pumpy climb with huge positive holds that is overhung the whole way up with a very difficult crux right before the last bolt.
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jt512
Jun 24, 2005, 3:57 PM
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Four more work runs on To Hell and Back, and typing is very painful this morning. Nice draws, Jack.
-Jay
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brutusofwyde
Jun 24, 2005, 8:03 PM
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Climbed Trough (5.4) to Piton Pooper (5.7) yesterday at Tahquitz Rock.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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caughtinside
Jun 24, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Kiss my Kremlin, 5.11 something.
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theishofoz
Jun 24, 2005, 8:28 PM
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the bubble(v5), at indian rock on monday
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flamer
Jun 24, 2005, 10:58 PM
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Climbed the hesse-ferguson on Halletts yesterday(RMNP) super fun and nobody else around!!
3 weeks ago I did the RR on Half dome...12 hours onroute....ended up bivying half way down the death slabs...my first ever forced bivy.
josh
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krga20
Jun 28, 2005, 1:14 PM
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I clipped 52 bolts on Sunday...
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jt512
Jun 28, 2005, 6:00 PM
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In reply to: I clipped 52 bolts on Sunday...
I clipped 79 bolts on Sunday.
I wonder why I never thought of this metric!
-Jay
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 6:05 PM
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Hmm, I clipped 72 on Saturday. I took 6 15' whippers on to one of them, on a route called Spankterfied.
I got spanked pretty bad.
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pbjosh
Jun 28, 2005, 6:12 PM
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Hehe interesting metric for sport wankers :) I clipped around 100 on Thursday but maybe only 30 each on Sat and Sun.
However I checked out Fisherman's buttress which has some excellent technical little routes on it. Trouser Trout, 12-, is really fun, extremely thin and delicate gently overhanging climbing...
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drector
Jun 28, 2005, 6:16 PM
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I'm jealous of all of you full and part time climbers.
I got out at lunch yesterday for two+ climbs of the 5.9 arete on Trippy Rock in Incline Village. It's about... 30 feet... hmmm... maybe 25 feet.
I use a gear anchor to set up a rap' from the top of the rock to a couple of bolts above the route itself. It's not totally necessary but I like the practice of placing pro. I rap with a Gri gri on one strand of rope, tie both strands of the rope to the bolts (using the appropriate gear, etc...), rap down to the first ledge of the ground, pre-tie a backup in the second rope strand, and rap the rest of the 10 feet to the ground. Sounds like a huge climb so far huh?
So I climb this thing a few times using the Gri gri to self-belay. On my third try, the Gri gri won't feed and I'm starting to carry the pack on the end of the rope up the crux. The Gri gri feed okay when hanging free but not when the rope is running across my leg. The crux is akward and usually causes a barn-door problem. I bail since I've got an hour to do the whole thing including the hike.
So the rope is still attached to the bolts and then to the gear anchor on top. I figure what the heck, I use a cordalette to make a Prusik and ascend with that and the Gri gri to the bolts. More good practice. I untie it all (of course still on belay from the gear anchor) and then climb over the top. Get my gear, pack up, and hike back to the car.
I've taken about 1.3 hours to climb a 25 foot route almost three times. It's almost not worth it except I love to climb.
Oh, and I'm about to go try it again today. Maybe that death-mod for the Gri gri would help.
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tucsonclimberboy
Jun 28, 2005, 6:16 PM
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The White Whale and the Dog on Lumpy Ridge, in Estes Park. Fun 3 pitch 5.8s.
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 6:18 PM
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In reply to: Oh, and I'm about to go try it again today. Maybe that death-mod for the Gri gri would help.
Or a skinnier rope? Not too skinny! :shock:
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learnin2climb
Jun 28, 2005, 6:52 PM
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The northern most face of the Sawtooth Ridge up at Big Chief in Tahoe. Did all 4 climbs, .7, .9, .10a, .10b. Was being lowered off the .10b when a 4.8 maginute earthquake hit. I just heard the boom and didn't really feel the ground shake, atleast I didn't get knocked off the route.
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mgoodro
Jun 28, 2005, 7:13 PM
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An unnamed roadside crack up chossy volcanic rock. We nearly dislodged a 7 foot slab testing a cam placement. Definitely a learning experience.
The crag we wanted to hit was unreachable due to high water.
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ihuang
Jun 29, 2005, 12:01 AM
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I climbed the yellow-taped 5.12 at the gym.
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cjstudent
Jun 29, 2005, 12:38 AM
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Just got back yesterday from my Yosemite road trip.
Highlights: The Nose up El Cap, S. Face of Washington Column, Snake Dike up Half Dome, E. Butress of Middle Cathedral then went over to the sierras for two days and did Crystal Crag (5.7) and attempted Mt Humphreys but the weather moved in so we bailed.
I cant wait to get back to the Sierras though!!!
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james_climber
Jun 29, 2005, 1:48 AM
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it was an incredible line , 90 foot of overhang limestone ,full of tufas and stalactites , i dont know the name , it was 5.12d , location , El chonta , Mexico.
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shear
Jun 29, 2005, 1:02 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2004
Posts: 350
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waimea - 10d...rumney
went this weekend, place was a ghost town, we had the place to ourselves. it was really odd. the first day at noon we were alone at the parking lot wall from 12 until 4-ish...then went to jimmy cliff and were alone again. got some serious leading mileage because of it. :D
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kenjo
Jun 29, 2005, 3:23 PM
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Ate spiders at the Obed trying to do my circuit.
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bandycoot
Jun 29, 2005, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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My buddy and I made T-Shirts for "Team V2" and sent The Vampire and Valhalla as a stellar, shade chasing link-up. I highly recommend it! We even had time to get lunch at a great Greek restaurant down in Idyllwild between sends. I'll try to post a trip report.
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krga20
Jul 1, 2005, 4:01 AM
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Four more routes after work. Two 11's and two 12's. Off to boulder for the weekend!
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jt512
Jul 1, 2005, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: My buddy and I made T-Shirts for "Team V2" and sent The Vampire and Valhalla as a stellar, shade chasing link-up. I highly recommend it! We even had time to get lunch at a great Greek restaurant down in Idyllwild between sends. I'll try to post a trip report.
Wow, the Vampire is open again already? I heard it sustained substantial damage in the quake a couple weeks ago, and a voluntary closure was in effect until Louie could survey the damage and restore the route. That dude works fast! Could you see any of the damage?
-Jay
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crotch
Jul 1, 2005, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: Wow, the Vampire is open again already? I heard it sustained substantial damage in the quake a couple weeks ago, and a voluntary closure was in effect until Louie could survey the damage and restore the route. That dude works fast! Could you see any of the damage? -Jay
I thought it was Lost Arrow Spire that is seismically unstable and needs retrofitting.
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jt512
Jul 1, 2005, 7:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Wow, the Vampire is open again already? I heard it sustained substantial damage in the quake a couple weeks ago, and a voluntary closure was in effect until Louie could survey the damage and restore the route. That dude works fast! Could you see any of the damage? -Jay I thought it was Lost Arrow Spire that is seismically unstable and needs retrofitting.
Don't forget Headstone Rock. Seems to become unstable nearly every year in early spring.
-Jay
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whipperboy
Jul 1, 2005, 8:58 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2005
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Uuuuh, recent climbs....that would be More Funky than Gunky, Duck Soup, Stud Alert (Sinks Canyon) and a handful of others.....sunburned my head in the process....
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alpinerock
Jul 2, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Today i worked "I'll take black" in hell, yesterday i was up LCC and led satans corner, bushwack crack and a bunch of other fun little cracks, then on thursday i soloed "The Blight" in hell, gas boost and vapours apparation both at hard rock.
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cliffhanger3786
Jul 4, 2005, 2:29 AM
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crowder's mountain...i set up a slackline gap over the gorge between middle finger and 2 pitch wall. it was freakin' sweet! i met up with some cool guys that just happened to live in the same building as i last semester at APP.
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verticalturtle
Jul 4, 2005, 3:53 AM
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I did the aptly named "Almighty" at the Crag in the Sky in Logan.
Great rock, great views, great company, and a great pump!
vt
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gamehendge
Jul 4, 2005, 7:25 AM
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Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.
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elepita
Jul 4, 2005, 8:53 AM
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Posts: 160
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``The Torreon´´ in Los Galayos (Central Spain). Los Galayos are granitic a mountain formation in central Spain. They are basically a bunch of beautiful granite spires left by the glaciers a looong time ago. They are 1,30/2 hours approach by foot but when you get there, it is so beautiful that you forget tha pain in your back due to all the heavy trad gear inside your pack. The torreon is a spire around 300 (I think) that stands out between all the other spires because of its perfect shape. My boyfriend Tim (who moved to Spain recently with me) and I, climbed it on a beautiful 10 degrees Celsius day (while down in the valley it was 35...). The summit of the Torreon is very small and exposed (sheer walls on each side...great rappel!), so when I made it on top I crawled on top of it. The top is totally visible from all the other spires, so I could here other climbers laughing at my way of summitting....the lizard way...hahaha! Here is a picture of us on the summit getting ready to rappel, taken by another climber on a close by spire.
Also last Saturday I redpointed my first 6b (10c/d) on a limestone crag close to home.....I was so scared on those little pockets and edges...but afterwards I felt sooo good!!! yeeah!
http://by103fd.bay103.hotmail.msn.com/...G&domain=hotmail.com
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bandycoot
Jul 4, 2005, 9:21 AM
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Spook Book sunday morning, and the first two pitches of Don Juan Wall in the afternoon. We would have finished DJW but there was a fricken Conga Line up that first pitch for Thin Ice so we started late and had to rappel for daylight reasons. The Needles were fricken packed! There were easily 25 cars up there this weekend!
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prezwoodz
Jul 4, 2005, 4:13 PM
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Posts: 173
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"We Sad" 6a or 6a+ at One-Two-Three wall, East Railay, Thailand
It was fitting since it was our last climb and we were sad to leave!
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jt512
Jul 5, 2005, 7:18 PM
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In reply to: Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.
And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm
-Jay
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jt512
Jul 5, 2005, 7:36 PM
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Number of bolts clipped this weekend: Saturday 81, Sunday 65. Total for weekend: 146.
-Jay
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jpdreamer
Jul 5, 2005, 7:46 PM
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Went climbing on Sat. Last climb was some unnamed variation of Loads of Fun (5.7) at the summit crags of Old Rag. Awesome weather, beautiful setting, and a chill experience oveall made for a nice day out. Plus, after taking the easy way up earlier in the day, I mustered up the balls to pull through the small overhanging section of the climb near the top, so felt great about that. I'd never done anything overhanging on a trad route before, so it took a little talking myself into it. So worth it though, the direct line is much purer, and a heck of a lot more fun.
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gamehendge
Jul 5, 2005, 7:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough. And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm -Jay
Thanks Jay. The way I climbed it, I'll say I should only get credit for an .11a. :lol: :lol:
I'll make sure and mention something to Jack.
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ikefromla
Jul 5, 2005, 7:55 PM
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must have clipped close to 40 bolts yesterday. too bad the hardest send was 12c and the 14a was a beta burn (more like a "wow this felt a LOT easier last season" burn.) :roll:
pelt me with rotten vegetables and fruits as you please.
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tripperjm
Jul 5, 2005, 8:22 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough. And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm -Jay Thanks Jay. The way I climbed it, I'll say I should only get credit for an .11a. :lol: :lol: I'll make sure and mention something to Jack.
Nice post Jay.
BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!1
Invisible King was rated 12a when it first went up before the infamous "Howie hold" was discovered. It was already in the guide at 12a. After the hold was discovered, most locals including Troy and I, agreed the route was easier. When the new guide was being finished, Troy and I discussed the ratings on several routes including this one. Invisible King is rated 11d and it is.
It is better to train on solid grades and crank other peoples over rated routes, than to have them visit and walk your soft grades.
I also stand on a previous posting of mine on soft rating of routes.
In reply to: Up rating long standing estabished local test pieces, that get confirmed regularly by guy's that are for real and have been for decades is BS. Am I the only one that thinks "sport climbing" has been dumbed down enough? Can't we at least have solid grades? I will STAND UP AND FIGHT grade creep in my local areas especially when it involves area CLASSICS that are my routes!!! It's a shame the "tradition" of sticking up for your local crag and caring how it stands up to other crags has been LOST! It seems like I'm the only one locally that cares though! |
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cruxmonger
Jul 5, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2005
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I climbed Big Rocks Remembered yesterday at Barn Bluff in Red Wing, MN. It was my first 5.11d. I also climbed Jump Start (.10a), New Kids on the Rock (.10d), Urban Chunks (.11a), Left Lane (.10a) and Roof Burner (.11a). It was a very fun day, overall, besides the mosquitoes.
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jt512
Jul 5, 2005, 8:33 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough. And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm -Jay Thanks Jay. The way I climbed it, I'll say I should only get credit for an .11a. :lol: :lol: I'll make sure and mention something to Jack. Nice post Jay. BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!1 Invisible King was rated 12a when it first went up before the infamous "Howie hold" was discovered. It was already in the guide at 12a. After the hold was discovered, most locals including Troy and I, agreed the route was easier. When the new guide was being finished, Troy and I discussed the ratings on several routes including this one. Invisible King is rated 11d and it is.
OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d.
-Jay
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overit
Jul 5, 2005, 8:55 PM
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You guys said it was 11c when I redpointed it!
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tripperjm
Jul 5, 2005, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d. -Jay
I think you got it now, and they say you can't teach an old dog new tricks. HAHA!
.....and yes, when the "Howie Hold" breaks the route will still be rated 11d.
There nothing wrong with a couple of local sandbag.
In reply to: You guys said it was 11c when I redpointed it!
HAHA!!!1
I do remember telling you it was 11c. When you sent it, the Howie hold was in effect and you made it look 11c, but then you always could dance!
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pud
Jul 5, 2005, 10:21 PM
Post #89 of 107
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a pumpy traversing todd gordon sportclimb near "big moe" at j-tree. 5.10 a/b
a shady place on a hot day. nice. :D
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raymondjeffrey
Jul 5, 2005, 11:13 PM
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Posts: 361
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Completed a 7 or 8 pitch climb with Larry DiAngelo and John (vegastradguy) on July 2. It was a FA for us and my first FA. Can't remember if it was 7 or 8 pitches cuz you can probably combine yadyada. It is on Magic Mountain in Red Rock and it is near "Community Pillar". We thought that the route was an honest and proud 5.9. Get on this route folks because it is fun!! You will be able to get route info soon on 'climbingredrocks' route data base.
Cheers
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cam
Jul 5, 2005, 11:27 PM
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The last route I did was a F.A. trad line in an otherwise sport oriented crag. It was a beautiful huge flake that my partner and I had to combing racks to protect (BIG gear). The last 10 feet or so was a dirty loose mess of rocks and dirt but the first 40 feet or so was awesome. I'm gushing because it was my first FA ever. I'm pretty stoked. So fun, not knowing anything about the climbing or what gear it will take.
On a side note, I did have to take some loose cap down in the interest of my safety and especially my seconds safety as the rope would surely have knocked down dirt and stones on my second head. I'm wondering though, should I go back and remove ALL the loose stuff or leave it as is is now? I believe cleaning it well would deffinately make it more enjoyable but I just don't know how MUCH cleaning is neccesary or appropriate.
cam.
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cam
Jul 5, 2005, 11:29 PM
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oops, double post.
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rocknroll
Jul 6, 2005, 5:00 AM
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Posts: 111
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Crystal's Gift , 5.6, (First Ascent) The Rock Pile, Alabama Hills, CA. The 10 year old neighbor girl, Crystal, wanted to go climbing. Her first route, The Ladies Route in Mike's Backyard, was an absolute terror as she screamed at the top of her lungs. We approached the Wall, being "Super Stealth Masters" avoiding the blistering heat and sneaking into the shade. When we got there I let her chose the route. Two lines looked easiest: a low angle slab with loose plates or a steeper dike to it's right, I knew she would have trouble with the dike, but I just couldn't see bolting up that slab. Then I saw a beautiful plated crack of hard stone above the ledge with the dike,and we could appraoch it with a scramble. Nope, Crystal was set on the slab. I figured I'd run it out, but with a minimum amount of bolts and be done with it. Ready to run it to a horizontal crack 20 feet up I hesitated on some friction moves. "Put in a bolt" yelled Crystal. By the time I reached the top the sun was stetting and Crystal was tired of belaying. "Forget the bolts, run it out". I threw in the anchor and set up a single line rap with the reverso. All Crystal had to do was release the rope from a gri-gri. Well the locking beaner was beyind her, she grew frustrated and stomped off and pouted behind a rock, leaving me hanging.
It was almost completely dark by the time I coaxed her back ("Hey Crystal! I can see your house from here!"). As we walked back, I let her know that the Super Stealth Master never gets emotional when they have problems withe the equipment. Just The opposite. The Super Stealth Master is keenly aware at such times.
We hopped the barb wire of her property making animal sounds. She does a perigrine falcoln quite well.
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theangryenchilada
Jul 7, 2005, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d. -Jay
Yeah, that really sucks. I guess you will have to change your name to jt511d.
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dfoerstel
Jul 7, 2005, 4:43 AM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 112
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South Face of Charlotte Dome. 11 Pitches of pure fun.
Dave
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carl12
Jul 7, 2005, 4:59 AM
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I just climbed my first couple 10a's in the gym, both without a fall. My friend remarked that I had gotten better since climbing earlier this spring. And I think he's right. I've been to worried about numbers that I hadn't even attempted anything past 5.9. But I found myself moving smoothly up routes that I would have flailed on a cosuple months ago.
I still consider myself new to climbing, but I'm hooked. Off to the crag tommorow.
Carl
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jt512
Jul 7, 2005, 2:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d. -Jay Yeah, that really sucks. I guess you will have to change your name to jt511d.
That does suck!
-Jay
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agrauch
Jul 7, 2005, 3:43 PM
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North Face (60 degrees, 5.5ish), of Ranrapalca (6162 meters), Cordillera Blanca. Not a terribly hard route but the descent was epic.
The sport climbing after work yesterday just doesn't count.
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justsaynototake
Jul 7, 2005, 3:55 PM
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Posts: 33
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This past week I climbed a 5.7 sport climb on top rope at WallCrawler Rock Club in Atlanta, GA. It was an epic adventure. I started off traveling down 75/85 south, and I had like 5 cars cut in front of me. I accelerated my car to maximum speed and navigated the backroads of little 5 points until I reached my final destination. THE GYM!!!! As I placed my harness on and fit my feet snuggly into my shoes, I said to myself, "today is going to be the day. Today is going to be the day that I conquer this climb." I tied in to the 10.5mm rope who's sheath was partially fraid. Was it from all of the falls on this climb or was it from so much use? I didn't know. I called off to my belayer that I was climbing and he said....."wait, I need to lock my beener." So I did. It felt like I was waiting for an hour, maybe a day, who knows how long I was standing in the luke warm gym, waiting for my destiny. Finally he was ready. He screamed, "ON BELAY!!!" and then off I went. The first few moves were nice and juggy, but then....bum, bum, BUM!!!!!....came the crux!!! I had to match my hands so that I could use my right hand. It was totally unexpected. Suddenly, my foot slips off the shelf hold that was only 5" long and 4" away from the wall. So there I was hanging by two hands with only ONE FOOT ON THE WALL!! I was so scared but I knew that if I let fear take a hold of me I would never be able to fulfill my destiny. So I said, "suck it up you pansy and get that foot back on the wall!!" I did. I pulled some hard juggy moves up to the top of the 25 foot wall. My arms burned. Not so much because of the climbing but because I had a shot earlier on in both arms and the medicine was just kicking in. I told my belayer to hold me there for a few minutes while I take in the gloriousness of my triumph. I looked around at my peers as they cheered me on. It was a good thing that I brought my camera because I took a picture of myself which I later found out did not come out due to some poor lighting and a low battery. As my belayer lowered me I heard a slow clap begin. As the applause rose I thought to myself, "now I am complete...now I can die a happy life"
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saxfiend
Jul 8, 2005, 6:06 PM
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In reply to: As my belayer lowered me I heard a slow clap begin. As the applause rose I thought to myself, "now I am complete...now I can die a happy life"
JL
PS -- You know, that WallCrawler route is a sandbagged 5.7. Zach says it should really be more like a 5.8a.
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esallen
Jul 8, 2005, 6:24 PM
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Excessive Bail- 11.a Rock Canyon, UT. Very fun lead. Fell once in the crux on my first lead attempt.
Eric
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krga20
Jul 9, 2005, 1:21 AM
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118 bolts clipped last weekend. I have to say that it was in boulder canyon...not my favorite place.
Yesterdays total was 24 after work! Off to Ouray for the weekend...
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justsaynototake
Jul 18, 2005, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: As my belayer lowered me I heard a slow clap begin. As the applause rose I thought to myself, "now I am complete...now I can die a happy life" What a great climbing epic, Eric! I'm glad I'm able to rate posts today. I was going to tell about my latest climb (BellSouth Tower, 16 flights of stairs, very runout), but after your story, I'm speechless. JL PS -- You know, that WallCrawler route is a sandbagged 5.7. Zach says it should really be more like a 5.8a.
Ya know, I meant to do that pitch in the BellSouth Tower. But something about the fact that there is just no protection ANYWHERE in the entire 16 flights. I got about two steps up and the 'Elvis-legs' kicked in and I said, "forget this." Maybe next time you do the BellSouth Tower, you can set up a toprope for me. :lol: Until then I will have to take the elevator to the top (aka, the newbie route).
--Eric
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maimed
Jul 19, 2005, 3:25 AM
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Gelsa in the pouring rain Sunday afternoon. Now maybe I can spawn & die.
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musicman
Jul 19, 2005, 4:06 AM
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Posts: 828
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Today, Primal Magic, 5.11something up American Fork Canyon. Got through the crux moves, was uber-pumped and tried to make an incredibly desperate clip and pull up an armload of slack. Well, right as i felt my fingers touch the carabiner i felt my feet pop and off i went, 30 feet down, after that, i pulled back up, took a short breather at the bolt, and finished the route. Needless to say, i didn't get back on it today, i'm not gonna lie, i was scared, but now i'm beating myself up over it and can't wait until monday to get back on it!
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korrigan
Jul 19, 2005, 2:18 PM
Post #106 of 107
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Registered: Jun 1, 2005
Posts: 26
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The last one I did was the pretty long "Snoozing Suzie" at Symmond's Yat, where I was spending the day learning lead climbing for the first time.
This route was the second route I ever climbed when I started rock climbing about 10/11 weeks ago. It scared the shit out of me then, since I was very afraid of heights and had only done a *really* basic route before this one.
And now I've gone and led the bastard! Coming to the top of it and seeing the setting sun over the Wye Valley trees just made my day - this was the best day climbing I've ever had!
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hammerhead
Jul 19, 2005, 2:41 PM
Post #107 of 107
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 371
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I did Classic Corner Crack at Logtown quarry in Lisbon Ohio. It's only about 35-40 feet and it's a 5.4-5.5. It's about a fist sized crack and part of it is an offwidth. It can be climbed in the crack or like a face climb. Next time I want to stay in the crack and traverse over to Bursitis. Hey, I just started leading this past spring. I've led this route 3 or 4 times.
I got to get back to the RRG!!!
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