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angiebangie
Jan 23, 2006, 5:56 PM
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I've been climbing off and on for a year and a half now and still find that I tend to pull myself up bc I'm not trusting my feet or footholds. Any ideas on how to get over this fear and/or improve footwork?
any suggestions are much appreciated!
thanks! :D
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overlord
Jan 23, 2006, 6:02 PM
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here you go:
article 1
article 2... Though i think this one is still pending approval. should be approved soon. i hope :P
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hammerhead
Jan 23, 2006, 6:19 PM
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Well you could start off by reading up on footwork....
This is what has helped me:
1. Pick a spot on the hold and place your foot there deliberately, leave it there. Don't move it.
2. Concentrate on pushing with your legs instead of pulling with you arms, try to keep your heels down.
3. Know where your next footholds will be before you move.
Do this on easy routes and get the proper technique down and then move to harder routes.
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csgambill
Jan 23, 2006, 6:23 PM
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Take up ballroom dancing.
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charlet_poser
Jan 23, 2006, 6:26 PM
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there are a number of exercises you can use for improving footwork that I've used while teaching climbing technique. These are all best done in a gym.
1) Climb easy routes (preferably slab) while holding tennis balls in your hands. This keeps you from pulling with your arms and forces you to stay in balance with your feet.
2) Traverse a section of wall about 20ft long. Then do it again removing every other foothold. You'll learn how to make more moves without using your feet.
3) Do routes that are easy for you, paying attention to using perfect footowkr technique. This one is a bit boring to begin with, but as you do it more, you will instinctively do it more on harder routes.
I'll try to think of more as the day goes on.
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shiggetyshiva
Jan 23, 2006, 6:29 PM
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- climb slab with no or few features
- downclimb when you're on toprope or bouldering
- practice mantle moves and balancy stuff
- clean the bottoms of your shoes before climbing
- read books/articles, watch other climbers
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mlcrisis
Jan 23, 2006, 6:32 PM
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more downclimbing practice has helped my footwork.....
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kachoong
Jan 23, 2006, 6:36 PM
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....one of the best ways to improve your footwork, I have found, is plenty of downclimbing.... Of course you can do this mainly when you're on a toprope, but it will increase your confidence in your feet placements, as well as give you an increased workout....
(edited to say mlcrisis beat me to it..... downclimbing is definately one of the best ways to better your footwork)
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cracklover
Jan 23, 2006, 7:20 PM
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In reply to: here you go: article 1 article 2... Though i think this one is still pending approval. should be approved soon. i hope :P
The second article is not live at the time of this posting, so I can't comment on it, but the first one is excellent. I really like the sound of that slab-tennis ball thing.
A couple things I'd add:
1 - A hell of a lot of good footwork is really just paying proper attention to your feet. Place your feet deliberately and correctly. There are lots of exercises to help you do this. Here's one I like: Each time you place your foot, you may not move or shift it until you are ready to move it to the next foothold. This will force you to think in advance about A - how best to use each foothold, and B - what direction you'll be going next. You'll find that the first time you do this, it'll be awkward in the extreme, and you'll royally suck (or you'll give up). This is just showing you how poorly you place your feet now. Note - this is just an exercise, and is not *always* the most efficient footwork. But you'd be surprised how much time people spend fussing with their feet while their arms are burning out. Teach your feet to get it right the first time, and you'll give your arms a fighting chance when the going really gets tough.
2 - A lot of good footwork is also not about your feet at all, but about where your center of gravity is in relation to your feet. If possible, you want your COG to be as close to directly above your feet as is feasible, given the holds. To this end - go to the gym and do long traverses. Try to keep your COG over your feet at all times. Easier said than done, but you'll know it's working when you suddenly find that at the end of traversing that entire overhanging wall, you're hardly pumped at all!
3 - Opposition with your feet can be an extremely powerful tool at getting more restful hand positions. This is one place where drop-knees excel. But forget about drop-knees for now. To learn the basics of opposition with your feet, try this exercise: Go to the gym and find a 90 degree inside corner (dihedral). Now climb it, using the holds for *feet only*. You may brace yourself against the wall using your hands, but do not touch any holds with your hands. The first time you try it may seem impossible, but believe me, it's not.
Best of luck, and let us know how it goes!
GO
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erockrings
Jan 23, 2006, 7:25 PM
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traversing and downclimbing are two things that I found helped my footwork. Just keep climbing lots. if your in a gym try to climb so you cant hear your feet touch the wall or the holds. it's a good excercise. Besides, your shoes will last alot longer!
eric
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caughtinside
Jan 23, 2006, 7:36 PM
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Core strength also helps you be more precise placing your feet on steep stuff.
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ryko
Jan 23, 2006, 7:43 PM
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Slabs, slabs, slabs and more slabs. I like the tennis ball idea. did I mention slabs?
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hand2foot
Jan 23, 2006, 8:10 PM
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In reply to: Core strength also helps you be more precise placing your feet on steep stuff.
I agree with this. A good way to train it is light lock off training when traversing because when traversing one usually relies on footwork. Before grabbing the next hold, hold still/ pause for a three second count. The rules to go by are...
1. No barn dooring, everything stays under control, and every move is deliberate.
2. Keep your feet as silent as possible
As you build up endurance, use smaller feet and more challenging holds
good luck!
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cully_larson
Jan 23, 2006, 8:51 PM
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A good exercise is to traverse using only jibs and features.
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krusher4
Jan 23, 2006, 9:01 PM
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"Remember if you can find holds it is not real slab climbing." I read this somewhere and I like it.
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sidepull
Jan 23, 2006, 9:17 PM
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tie little bells to your shoes or, better yet, buy an iPod and have a buddy put it at the top of boulder problem or route that's technically too hard for you - if you get to the top it's yours, if not then you must use said iPod in the same way you would use the tennis balls referred to above (so I guess you'll have to buy two iPods).
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charlet_poser
Jan 23, 2006, 10:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: here you go: article 1 article 2... Though i think this one is still pending approval. should be approved soon. i hope :P The second article is not live at the time of this posting, so I can't comment on it, but the first one is excellent. I really like the sound of that slab-tennis ball thing. A couple things I'd add: 1 - A hell of a lot of good footwork is really just paying proper attention to your feet. Place your feet deliberately and correctly. There are lots of exercises to help you do this. Here's one I like: Each time you place your foot, you may not move or shift it until you are ready to move it to the next foothold. This will force you to think in advance about A - how best to use each foothold, and B - what direction you'll be going next. You'll find that the first time you do this, it'll be awkward in the extreme, and you'll royally suck (or you'll give up). This is just showing you how poorly you place your feet now. Note - this is just an exercise, and is not *always* the most efficient footwork. But you'd be surprised how much time people spend fussing with their feet while their arms are burning out. Teach your feet to get it right the first time, and you'll give your arms a fighting chance when the going really gets tough. 2 - A lot of good footwork is also not about your feet at all, but about where your center of gravity is in relation to your feet. If possible, you want your COG to be as close to directly above your feet as is feasible, given the holds. To this end - go to the gym and do long traverses. Try to keep your COG over your feet at all times. Easier said than done, but you'll know it's working when you suddenly find that at the end of traversing that entire overhanging wall, you're hardly pumped at all! 3 - Opposition with your feet can be an extremely powerful tool at getting more restful hand positions. This is one place where drop-knees excel. But forget about drop-knees for now. To learn the basics of opposition with your feet, try this exercise: Go to the gym and find a 90 degree inside corner (dihedral). Now climb it, using the holds for *feet only*. You may brace yourself against the wall using your hands, but do not touch any holds with your hands. The first time you try it may seem impossible, but believe me, it's not. Best of luck, and let us know how it goes! GO
in general i like the idea of #1, but there are so many times when it's important to shift the foot placement on a hold (think any move that traverses) this exercise may be counter-active in the end.
Another one i like is climbing with silent feet (already mentioned in this thread). climb a route that is slightly under your level using only quiet feet. If you make a noise (like foot scraping down the wall onto the hold or kicking the wall), have your belayer lower you and start over. this one will annoy the heck out of you, but when you climb a hard route with perfect foot placements, you'll be pretty darn proud.
as for stemming (exercise #3 quoted here). another fun thing to do is climb in a dihedral using only one hand at a time (you can never have mor than one hand on the wall at any moment).
good luck!
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redlegrangerone
Jan 23, 2006, 11:46 PM
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I spent an hour with an instructor going over the bascis. What I thought was bad footwork, was actually a center of balance thing. To have someone knowledgable watch you climb and then explain the different points of climbing really helped. When to backstep, when not too. To use your left hand and right foot and vice versa. It is amazing how different it is once someone explains and shows you the proper technique.
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charlet_poser
Jan 24, 2006, 12:06 AM
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oops, double posted.
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charlet_poser
Jan 24, 2006, 12:09 AM
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cracklover,
I'm not saying that it's always the best move, but if you're matching on a hold or crossing over while traversing, simply pivoting your foot helps keep the movement fluid and conserves energy. when you stop mid bodyweight shift, you waste energy. i like the idea behind your exercise, i simply think it rules out several other ways using your feet.
nothing really beats working in person with someone to improve technique.
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cracklover
Jan 24, 2006, 1:38 AM
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In reply to: cracklover, I'm not saying that it's always the best move, but if you're matching on a hold or crossing over while traversing, simply pivoting your foot helps keep the movement fluid and conserves energy. when you stop mid bodyweight shift, you waste energy.
Matching or crossing over your hands? Why should this cause your feet to pivot? They should be in the correct position to start with. Or do you mean swapping feet (which should also generally be avoided, but certainly doesn't require shifting your feet before you swap). Or did you mean crossing a foot through? Crossing a foot through may or may not require pivoting. The plain fact is that on many small footholds, if you pivot your foot, it will pop off. Better learn how to place it in the direction you'll need to weight it for the next move.
In reply to: i like the idea behind your exercise, i simply think it rules out several other ways using your feet.
No, it doesn't rule out anything. Would you argue that climbing slab with your hands full of tennis balls "rules out" ever learning how to use your hands well? It's equally ridiculous to suggest that placing your feet and then not moving them (living with both your right and your wrong choices) will make your footwork inflexible and non-fluid. Both are training techniques - isolating one particular area to force you to master it. And if you think it is unwise to learn how to place your feet efficiently in the direction they will be needed for the next move, I say you are flat out wrong. From my experience, it's absolutely vital to climbing steep faces efficiently, and it makes the climber *more* fluid in their movements, not less.
In reply to: nothing really beats working in person with someone to improve technique.
I'll take your word on that.
GO
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elissa01
Jan 24, 2006, 2:25 AM
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I haven't read all the replies to this so i don't know if someone has already said these or not, but...
-Try staying more on your toes
-Try doing a few foot switches frequently, this should help with foot placement.
-Listen to your feet...if they make loud noises, that isn't good. work on that by using the above suggestions.
Elissa
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jt512
Jan 24, 2006, 2:56 AM
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In reply to: You do *not* need to shift your feet for every, or even most, foot placements while traversing. To do so is simply inefficient. In fact, it is the best option only about as often as doing a foot-swap is the best option: rarely. GO
You might not need to "shift" your foot while traversing, but for most traversing moves you probably should pivot your foot on the hold. The reason is that, for most moves, you should have the hip turned in to the wall on the same side of your body as the hand you want to move. That is, if you want to move your right hand, you should have your right hip turned in to the wall. Since next, you'll usually want to move your left hand, you then want to first turn your left hip into the wall. Usually this necessitates pivoting the foot on the hold.
Jay
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ajkclay
Jan 24, 2006, 4:31 AM
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ummm, it was a long username, but i think it was "shiggetyshiva" or something like that who said it well on the first page.
Climb a slab with tiny holds, and downclimb.
also try to climb quietly and exactly, placing your feet on each hold once and precisely, making as little sound as possible. Place your feet as if you will not be able to move them once they are on the hold. This will help you avoid the "shotgun effect" of just getting your foot to whatever part of the hold and make you think about where it should be, increasing placement accuracy.
... this is of course a training exercise, in reality you sometimes need to alter your foot position on a hold in order to progress
cheers
Adam
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salamanizer
Jan 24, 2006, 6:32 AM
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Some good advice is found in these replies. A lot of these things are things that I have worked on or done that I hadn't even realized I was doing. Concentration, balance and fluid movement are things that should always be in the back of your mind. Now the trick is to go out, apply and practice these things suggested to you. Practice will get you further than theory any day. It is the key to better technique.
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punk_rocker333
Jan 24, 2006, 6:43 AM
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In reply to: Take up ballroom dancing.
Trust me, this doesn't work. Ballroom dancing last semester didn't do much except improve my posture... oh yeah, the ladies love it too :wink:
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curt
Jan 24, 2006, 7:21 AM
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In reply to: I've been climbing off and on for a year and a half now and still find that I tend to pull myself up bc I'm not trusting my feet or footholds. Any ideas on how to get over this fear and/or improve footwork? any suggestions are much appreciated! thanks! :D
Watch me climb and do what I do. :D
Curt
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katalyzt
Jan 25, 2006, 10:39 PM
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I just learned a game at the gym yesterday that helps with footwork.
They called it "silent feet". You can play by yourself or with other people. It's just like what the name says... You start a traverse... You keep going as far as you can... The catch is that if you (or anybody else who is playing) hears you put your feet on a hold then you have to start over (or it's somebody elses turn). Speed is not an object. Just try to get as far as you can without making a sound.
This will help you in putting your foot in the right spot the first time and not rub around looking for it.
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wallmonkey35
Jan 26, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Make sure your feet are quiet. This requires slow and delibrate movements. Another drill is to buy a pack of jibs. Put these on a plywood board and lean the board at a 45 + degree angle and traverse it not using hands.
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jt512
Jan 26, 2006, 4:05 AM
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In reply to: ryko said In reply to: Slabs, slabs, slabs and more slabs. I like the tennis ball idea. did I mention slabs? I couldn't agree more. I can tell you that learning to slab forces you to learn how to use your feet. What I mean is, you really get to know the feel of the rock and the capabilities of your rock shoes. You learn through slabbing just how effectively your shoes will "stick" to the rock. I think learning to slab is ultra important because on the harder climbs, you will run into less foot and hand holds and friction becomes your friend - or - your foe! Someone in a previous discussion on slabbing said "slabbing is the ballet of rock climbing". There's more about slabbing here
Slab is not a verb.
Jay
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pico23
Jan 26, 2006, 4:12 AM
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Slabs and lower angle rock. Also, the gym tends to foster bad habbits. Try traverseing instead of climbing.
If you climb enough slabs you'll have no choice but to trust your feet or fall (not fun on slabs). IF you climb overhanging stuff and you're strong you can get by with weak footwork on shorter routes.
Whatever you are climbing now with poor footwork you'll be cruising 2 grades higher once you trust the feet.
Also, climb stuff below your ability and test how little you can get away with on the feet. It kinda becomes addictive seeing just how small of a hold you can stick to.
A lot of cruxes can be easily beaten with the use of intermediate foot holds that you won't dream of touching till you trust your footwork.
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cheyennewills
Jan 26, 2006, 4:25 AM
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As others have been saying, be very deliberate with your feet.
There are some things that you can do outside of climbing that might help.
When hiking into a bouldering area, play a little game -- You have to stay on rock, and are not allowed to step on dirt. Yes -- it's a silly game, but it makes you pay attention to what you are doing with your feet. If you come across a section that is just pure dirt, find a stone or small rock, toss it into the area and use that to hop across, etc.
Talus running (do a search on Doug Robinson)
Slackline, and slack chain/cable.
Jump up onto firehydrants and similar height posts (like the posts that hold up chains in a parking lot). Try to "stick" the jump.
Walk along a curb, but use only certain parts of your feet (just your toes, or just the "left sides" of your feet, etc.)
Again the whole idea is to think of things to do that will require you to be aware of your feet, and how your body balances on them
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tnmountainman
Jan 26, 2006, 5:09 AM
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great articles overlord
Thanks for the info, footwork is one of my problem areas, so is strength, balance, I just really suck at climbing, any part you care to mention. :lol:
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katalyzt
Jan 26, 2006, 3:09 PM
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^HAHA I'm right there with you. Practice. Practice. Practice.
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handtraverse
Jan 27, 2006, 3:42 AM
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jt512 wrote:In reply to: Slab is not a verb. Jay
Oh yeah...right...SLAB CLIMBING SLAB CLIMBING! :wink:
Handtraverse
_______________________________
"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous" Reinhold Messner
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jt512
Jan 27, 2006, 3:57 AM
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In reply to: jt512 wrote: In reply to: Slab is not a verb. Jay Thanks for correcting me, Jay. But this isn't english class. This is a rock climbing question and answer forum. :wink:
"Slab," used as a verb, is not part of the climbing lexicon.
Better?
Jay
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p0bray01
Jan 27, 2006, 4:38 AM
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i dont reccomend this but injure your ring finger tendon like I did....had to buddy tape and still do every now and again... the sucker still hurts sometimes! This has taught me to use my feet extensivly....to the point that now i hardly grip the face holds at all...mainly because when I injured myself a while back and still climbed...(IDIOT) I had to use my feet or my hands would scream at me. :?
:roll:
Climb on bro.
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rock_junkie
Jan 27, 2006, 5:46 AM
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Dont know if ayone mentioned this one...quit being a puss and come on!!!
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grovehunter
Jan 27, 2006, 8:25 AM
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I have the same problem. I have been practicing traversing, watching where I place my feet and placing them quietly. It was working pretty good till I had a slip and fall accident at work, still kind of racked up.... :roll:
Oh, and someone recommended that I commit to where I place my feet once I decide where I am going to place them.
Hope this helps!
Peace,
Chuck
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charlet_poser
Jan 27, 2006, 9:19 AM
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I tried an intersting exercise at the gym yesterday. I chose easy problems/routes (Vb-1/5.5-8ish), then climb using only your right foot on holds. the left has to smear or flag. get back to the ground, then do the same route again using only the left foot on holds while the right must flag/smear. I don't promise any results/improvements, but it did make me think more about my body position and foot placements. i did the problems significantly different each time and used body positions i never would have if i had just climbed it. it didn't feel harder climbing easy routes this way, it simply required creativity with footwork.
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goob3r
Jan 27, 2006, 9:40 AM
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the kind of shoes you're wearing can help.. i'm currently climbing with mocassims.. which suck for toeing but are great for pulling... just find a shoe that you think holds on the toe best...
but also.. if you're having trouble with your footwork.. that's just your problem.. do something about it.. like, just use your feet more.. it doesn't matter what you do.. climb normally.. just have a friend there telling you to use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. until you finally use your feet more.
it's quite simple.
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joshy8200
Jan 28, 2006, 6:25 AM
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Climb in regular shoes and actually force yourself to make your feet stay on the holds.
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angiebangie
Jan 30, 2006, 3:06 PM
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Wow! Thanks for all the great suggestions/advice. I will def be trying some of them out. Also, now that I think about it the gym I go to is usually pretty loud what with the crowds and music being played in the background that I never noticed what sounds my feet were making...
I shall try and notice... and pay more attention to feet placement and just go for it!
YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
:D
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