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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:20 AM
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I think I'm pretty fearless when it comes to most things.
Except lead climbing. I really don't enjoy being on "the sharp end" although I'll do it. I get no more enjoyment out of leading a climb then I do TR'ing it. This is great for my male partners because they all fight to lead and I jump to clean, but I also can't help feeling like a wuss because I don't have the same desire to lead.
Reasons behind it? I hate falling. Also, I love doing a climb uninterrupted by having to place gear. Just flow....
I've found the a lot of the same situation when talking to some female climbing partners.
How about you guys? Do you like to lead?
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 12:24 AM
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Hi Erica,
Regarding leading.. It is scary and I have had my own battles.. I have not taken a fall yet (maybe holding back a bit). Even though I have been close to falling many times I find while on lead I push myself harder because of that fear, maybe?. I have come to realize in 1 year and 6 months of climbing through many different stages that it is not about what accomplishments you can say you have done it is about accomplishing things inside of you.
So if you don't want to lead, come out to L.A. and I will lead, k? No worries at all - Just have fun, k? Climb for your own accomplishments
~Sara
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:28 AM
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Aw Sara...ya done did it now. I'm adding Malibu Creek and New Jack's to my Road Trip Calendar
Honestly, I may lead more if I was climbing with women. Being a wuss if front of a guy is one thing. Being a wuss in front of climber chicks in a no go.
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missedyno
Sep 18, 2002, 12:33 AM
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when i started to lead, i was pretty gutsy... lead indoors, lead outdoors... but had never taken a decent fall outdoors. my first fall screwed up my headspace sooo much that i didn't lead for about 6 months.
it's just now that i'm leading without so much fear.
fall. ya gotta do it. fall fall fall.
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jules
Sep 18, 2002, 12:35 AM
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I'm nearly fearless
From what little leading I've done... I love it.
I took a 13-ft fall the first time I lead (indoors, though). Scary, yet fun.
Not afraid of falling.
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jbone
Sep 18, 2002, 12:35 AM
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Leading Suxs. To much techinical crap with worrying about a rope and then a Belayer.
I would rather solo then lead but I will lead if I have too it's a chore though..
Highball Bouldering solves all Issues.
JBone
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paintinhaler
Sep 18, 2002, 12:39 AM
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Leading is like a drug.
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 12:41 AM
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Sounds good Erica I don't know about New Jack's though... Don't really like it there (no offense Jack).. But, I would do J-Tree with you... Sound good?
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deafclimber
Sep 18, 2002, 12:41 AM
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yes ! i love to lead ! no question..
[edit:]oops i am in wrong room ! sorry, chicks
[ This Message was edited by: deafclimber on 2002-09-17 17:52 ]
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:42 AM
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Exactly my point. Men love leading (for the most part).
Am I the only women that does it out of necessity?
~Erica
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 12:44 AM
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Oh and regarding the falling.. I have done the intentional fall at the gym and almost fell three times on lead last Saturday on gear.. I am going to keep the fear there to push me forward and when my first fall comes I will welcome it (hopefully with no pain)with open arms
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missedyno
Sep 18, 2002, 12:45 AM
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no, i love to lead. i find i climb better when i'm on lead. and you don't have to try to move around the rope at the top when you're on TR....
love love love leading....
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graniterat
Sep 18, 2002, 12:47 AM
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I actually began to lead about a year ago and I was doing pretty good, then I took a lead class and that screwed up my lead head . Now I'm slowly going back to it and I really love it, however the only thing that stops me from progressing is that I have not taken a fall.....nor do I want to. Lead is where is at for me, and doing trad is the best.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:51 AM
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froggy~you're on. This winter? A bunch of us are heading out there for New Year's.
ski~good advice. Thanks.
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indigo_nite
Sep 18, 2002, 12:55 AM
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I like to lead. I need to get more experience with it and especially with doing walk-offs. I have a weird phobia of going down a hill and go very slow but feel I can get much better with practice and confidence.
I like putting together anchors because it's improvisational, technical, and creative.
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climbchick
Sep 18, 2002, 12:56 AM
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I love to lead, but I go for routes that are well within my abilities. There's no way I'd lead something if I thought it was more than likely that I would fall.
Despite knowing how fantastic it feels to onsight something, I will still talk myself out of doing it sometimes, just because of some vague irrational fear . . . . I have to be in the right frame of mind, and the sun has to be shining, and I have to have the right partner, who gives me lots of positive energy Once I start climbing though, the fears usually vanish right away and I don't go overboard with the pro or anything.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 1:03 AM
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Hmmm...Yvette struck something. Everything I try to lead is usually at my limit (5.10+). I may try and try to lead some super easy stuff to regain my lead head.
Thanks, girlie!
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frawg
Sep 18, 2002, 1:04 AM
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I lead every chance I get. I love the rush. The falling isn't so bad on extremely overhangishly crazy routes. In fact, (and this is all subjective) it's extremely fun.
Peaze
Frawg
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 1:24 AM
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I will be there Erica... looking forward to it
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 3:05 AM
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Ski~
Simma don na!
I wasn't implying that women can't or don't like to lead. I said I didn't and knew other women that didn't like to either. Hence the post....to inquire.
~Erica
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hawk233
Sep 18, 2002, 3:30 AM
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Trad lead scares me, sport lead does not.
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cragchica
Sep 18, 2002, 4:36 AM
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I love leading!
...but most of my friends/climbing partners just say that's because I'm crazy. (I also enjoy free-soloing chimneys in pursuit of a good pic every now and then... but that's another story )
Climbing becomes so much more exciting when I'm on the sharp end ! Top-roping just doesn't do much for me.
As sport goes, I'll give pretty much anything a shot. Even if I back down after a bolt or two, at least I know I've tried. If I get sketched, I always have the opportunity to come back down (though the thought of leaving gear usually proves to be quite a motivator).
I ADORE leading trad (maybe it's the novelty that comes with a new skill, or maybe I just like to play with toys more than the average girl)... but I do have a sense of self-preservation that gives me a pit in my stomach at the thought of a 5.9/5.10 gear lead.
I happy to say that I am beginning to develop a sense of fear that I lacked entirely when I first started climbing. By my third time on the rock, seeing a friend do his first lead on something that I had just free-soloed, I was quite disappoitned to be shot down when I suggested leading something myself. A few falls later, I have a little better idea of what I am and am not willing to risk. A few feet onto a bolt - no biggie... Dropping onto a TCU after a 20 ft run-out - that's a little scarier.
[ This Message was edited by: cragchica on 2002-09-17 21:39 ]
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chuckd278
Sep 18, 2002, 4:37 AM
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I love to trad lead but i always do it at two grade levels lower than what i am climbing at the time on top rope with out falls. I like to do long moderate routes in the 5.5 to 5.9 range. This way I can take in a little of whats around me and not fight the pitch all the way up. It's also good to help out your partner on those 8, 10, 12 pitch climbs. Don't let it play head games with you. As long as you place your gear right and climb within your abilities you will have fun doing it.
Chuck
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camhead
Sep 18, 2002, 5:55 AM
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Erica, I can totally relate to your gear-placing sentiments. Especially on cracks, nothing interrupts the flow and unhindered movement of a climb like stopping and placing every ten feet. Of course, following interrupts the flow as well.
In order to really enjoy the uninterrupted, aesthetic flow of a good crack, one has two options: toperoping or freesoloing. I think I know which option most of us would go with.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 6:09 AM
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I don't feel nearly able enough to solo, so I am forced to TR to maintain the flow.
Or....
Boulder! Yeah...that's the ticket
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boulderingmadman
Sep 18, 2002, 6:11 AM
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hey climberchic--
just a coupla pieces of advice...first off, get comfortable doing some sport climbs, if leading scares you. it tends to be less exposed(which is my biggest problem leading trad routes) and you can comfortably "take the plunge" on purpose. i encourage my girlfriend to just let go on TR to get used to trusting the gear, so when i get her to start leading, shell be a little more comfortable...
as for trad routes...GROUNDWORK!! NEVER underestimate the power of good pro. practice placing gear from the ground. get an experienced leader to rate your gear for you. build a coupla anchors and hang from them about 6 ft off the ground. everytime you place a solid piece of gear, youll feel more confident. ive yet to fall on a piece of trad gear...thats my own fear. but i have confidence in my placements because ive been coached and taught by EXCELLENT and well experienced trad leaders. if a well experienced trad climber says "id fall on that", you know youre doing ok...
other than that...its all a matter of expanding your comfort zone. the more you do it, the confident you get...soon enough youll be walking cracks with dean potter and tommy caldwell...
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 6:17 AM
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Great advice Chris!
Thanks!
~Erica
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rock_diva
Sep 18, 2002, 6:17 AM
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I love to lead... for me, I feel the most exhileration when I'm on the sharp end. But I think leading is just a preference, like bouldering or trad climbing --
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boesgaard
Sep 18, 2002, 6:33 AM
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I like leading very much too! I think its the best thing about trad-climbing. I have'nt been climbing long though and have never taken a fall on my own placed pro.
I also climb well in on my abilities.
I think that if you think its fun placing pro, thinking about ropelines, setting up belay-stations, tying knots etc., then you'll love leading on trad.
But I'm pretty sure not all people fell fine doing that, and thats okay too - people are different - and thats a good thing!
-cheers
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climbinganne
Sep 18, 2002, 1:11 PM
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i can't get my head back for leading...i try and try...but the fear takes over, even on the one's i am used to...
i am leading 2 or 3 levels below what i should be.
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climbsomething
Sep 18, 2002, 1:23 PM
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Well, I don't like the idea of falling, of course. But it's not *just* that.
I am a pretty high-strung person, honestly, not quite neurotic but I am not the most relaxed person out there. Oh no, I'm not uptight, just... well, high-strung. That said, leading makes me incredibly tense, I am almost over-focused. It can be on 5.7 rock and I get gripped because I think too much. It's frustrating to get to the anchors of a 5.7 sport climb and be nearly drained, especially knowing I can follow well into the 10s. Maybe I just need more practice; some days are better than others and I need to iron that out. Too, I am far less spazzy on climbs I have done before, either on lead or toprope.
All this said, I do feel like a champ when I get to those anchors, if not so much for overcoming the climb, but for getting past MYSELF!
So speaking for myself, it's more of a personality issue than a sex/gender one.
Did all this make sense? It is, like, 6:30 in the morning
Aww, lookit me, being all open and stuff
I love this forum
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climbsomething
Sep 18, 2002, 1:28 PM
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I like rock_diva's comment that it's a preference thing too... now that you know of my crazy head, in the interests of staying chill and happy and enjoying the rock, I often prefer to toprope.
cragchica... that "friend" has self-esteem ish-yews! duh
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rockwomyn
Sep 18, 2002, 1:29 PM
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i just started leading this past year and yes it has become something that i enjoy doing. however i always lead what is within my means, at a lower grade than on TR just so i can get into the feel of it and to be comfortable.....i hate being freaked...overgripping, shaking, confusion, and so forth. climbing is cimbing not matter what, it is the personal challange and experience that counts.
climb on!!
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climbsomething
Sep 18, 2002, 1:32 PM
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[hint:] letting Andria lead all but ensures a fine day of climbing! She'll fling herself at anything!
It's good to get the chick on a rope too Don't ask how many times she's gotten herself 30 feet off the deck, sometimes in sneakers, sometimes barefoot... ahhh!
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gunkjunkie
Sep 18, 2002, 2:00 PM
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Hi -
I love leading!! There's nothing quite like it. But I have learned from various bumps, bruises and scares that it's best approached with caution and a clear sense of what you can and can't pull off.
I actually prefer it to TR and following - I guess because I feel more in control of the situation.
Deirdre
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tradguy
Sep 18, 2002, 2:40 PM
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I understand this is the "Ladies Room", but I feel like I can add a little perspective. I hope I don't offend....
Leading, especially trad, is all about being in the comfort zone. If that means backing off 2 or 3 grades or more, than so be it. Some people like being at the edge of their abilities and really pushing their limits out on lead, but to be honest, I can't say that I've noticed this any more in men than in women (percentage wise).
It also seems to me that "comfort" comes with knowing the rock. I personally like travelling to different places and climbing in unique settings on various types of rock, but whenever I do, I cut back a few grades on my trad leading for at least a couple days until I start feeling comfortable on that specific type of rock. For example, this past weekend I roadtripped out to Seneca in West Virginia, but I couldn't bring myself to trad lead anything harder than 5.8 because it was an unfamiliar rock and I just wasn't feeling into it.
One other point, and then I'll shut up
Moderate multipitch is the best way (for me, anyway) to get into "the zone". Something like a 6 pitch 5.7 or so. It takes a pitch or 2 to really get relaxed and settled into the groove, and then it just kind of flows. I start to push the thoughts about gear placements into the background of my mind, and really think about the climbing and the surroundings, and just slide in a piece here or there when it seems like I've been climbing for a while. It's hard to really describe, but that's when I truly feel unencumbered - when the climbing is smooth, and the gear just goes (grab a piece, put it in, clip it, and climb).
Enjoy.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 2:52 PM
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Well stated and good advice. Thanks, tradguy.
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bigevilgrape
Sep 18, 2002, 8:15 PM
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im scared to death of leading. i wont do it most of the time. when i do lead i will seldom do anything harder then a 5.7. (maybe a bit harder at the gym)
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missedyno
Sep 20, 2002, 3:17 PM
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when i went to mexico last year and met again/got to know my now boyfriend, we got hooked in as climbing partners the first day because others were paired up.
he still talks about how impressed he was at my leading. i'd take anything on. but i think that i was even a little too bold. i treated leading like TR'ing, only i'm dragging a rope with me. because of my unfortunate ignorance, my first fall was waaaay more damaging.
i love the idea of leading, don't get me wrong, but i think it's healthy to understands exactly what it entails.
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calamity_chk
Sep 23, 2002, 12:09 AM
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Personally, I *love* leading, though I have yet to turn down the chance to clean a good solid trad route. I, too, am a little on the, um, high-strung side (as if you cant tell by surfing my posts in community ).
However, I find that this is partly why I enjoy leading. It forces me to really focus, and I like that. Yeah, the rush is great and fun when I fall, but more so than that, I enjoy puzzling out the route and very deliberately thinking through my moves, especially on "reachy" stuff. (I'm ~5' tall.)
It's a good exercise and helps me check tactics for controlling the ol ADHD. (I'm very anti-med's.)
just my .02
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ecocliffchick
Sep 25, 2002, 4:50 PM
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Leading for me is a real struggle. In Ontario, there really aren't any bolted climbs lower than 5.10 - so I didn't have the opportunity to practice at lower grades. (I'm just a sport climber, I don't do trad-no gear and no guts!).
Anyhow, when I went out west this past summer, I got the opportunity to hop on some 5.8's and 5.9's and lead them. It was scary as hell, but I loved it afterwards when I was back on solid ground and I had done it all by myself, without needing my boyfriend to "put up a route for me". I was onsighting things on lead! I actually felt like I was really climbing. Anyhow, I realized that I didn't need the guys to put up the routes for me. If something was at my limit, I could lead it bolt to bolt and then work on it on top rope and not worry about making my boyfriend continuously put up the same routes for me.
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mclee
Sep 25, 2002, 5:32 PM
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I love leading. I think I'm more motivated to stay on the route rather than take a fall, so I try not to look down when I'm climbing and focus on the task at hand. It's taking care of business...
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dancesonrocks
Sep 25, 2002, 6:41 PM
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First off hello everyone! First post here under this name
I enjoy leading quite a bit. My present situation is pretty funny though, my past two serious boyfriends I either got them into climbing or renewed their interest in it. So, in the beginning of both relationshiop I was the one who handled the anchors for TR and who was the "rope gun" for all lead climbs.
Now though my present boyfriend wants to do all the leading himself, even saying at one point that it was for who had the most experience! LOL
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ecocliffchick
Oct 1, 2002, 10:05 PM
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Does anyone have any advice about how to get more comfortable with leading?
I just feel like I can't let go with one hand to clip 'cause the other one starts to feel like it's opening up - especially on overhanging routes. If I can get my weight over my feet (on vertical or slab climbs) I don't have a problem, but clipping when I'm hanging from one arm on an overhang terrifies me. Any thoughts? Anyone?
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missedyno
Oct 2, 2002, 3:25 AM
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hard to describe in writing, but lock off. if possible, straighten out the arm you're holding on to the rock with, uses more muscles so less fatigue, better hold, etc etc.
myself, i just had 3 accidental weeks off climbing. (job, sick, weather, yadda yadda)
i went back into the gym and my headspace was far far away. i've practiced on some ridiculously easy stuff, just for the "okay right, yeah this won't kill me" type of headspace. and to think that 3 weeks ago i was fearlessly leading anything i thought i could climb, and falling if i had to...
i'll get it back...
*shakes fist at wall*
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ecocliffchick
Oct 2, 2002, 1:57 PM
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I think, perhaps, I just have to work on my grip strength. Even when I'm hanging straight-armed I feel like my fingers are slipping off the rock and that I'm going to fall with a giant loop of slack out. I've tried practicing clipping over and over again to get more efficient at it so I spend the minimal amount of time clipping, but it still feels like any time I'm taking one hand off, to do anything besides move that hand to a new hold, I'm going to just lose my grip and fall.....maybe it's just a mental thing - does this happen to anyone else?
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mclee
Oct 2, 2002, 3:52 PM
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Grip strength is very important when leading, but body position also key as well. If you can keep your body as close to the rock as possible and having your feet on the best holds (although there may not be very good ones at the clipping stance at times)this helps minimize the pressure on your hands when clipping. Also, if you're at a clipping stance that feels awkward, think about going a couple feet above the bolt where there may be a better hand hold to clip at. You may have a more slack out than you'd like, but it may be safer than clipping at a crappy hold. Just my two cents. Hope this helps.
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lilred
Oct 4, 2002, 4:54 PM
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Aaaah. Leading...
I use to hate it, now I see it as a challenge. I've always been afraid of falling...even in situations aside from climbing, it's always been a phobia for me. When I started climbing, I would never lead. But in the last year I've wanted to challenge myself more...I wanted to conquor my fear and put it to rest.
The first thing I did was to put myself safely in the position of looking fear in the face. I jumped off a 55 ft waterfall into a pool below. I must say that was both the scariest, and most awakening moment of my entire life.
The next step was to add climbing...
I was at a level where I was comfortable TRing hard 10's and 11's...so I picked a fun pockety 10a to get on...I should have been able to climb the 10 with ease, but I was so scared of falling I overgripped each hold and my forearms were screaming...but I made it to the top with-out falling...I got to the anchors and paused for a moment and realized I was still afraid. so...
i
let
go
WWWWWWWWWwhhhhhhhhhheee!
It was SO FUN!
that was the day I got my lead head. There are times when fear rears it's ugly head. A few weeks ago I missed clipping the anchors on a scetchy 9 and missed the deck by 3 FEET...(yikes)...but I find that with repitition comes confidence.
SO LADIES....
I just read a thread in community where a begginer was asking questions about falling on lead.
A response was
"QUIT BEING A GIRL"...
Lets show those guys what we're made of
YOU GO GIRL!!!!!
and just like Jess says...
Fall fall fall!!!
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sradiego
Oct 4, 2002, 9:23 PM
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Not even close to good enough to lead yet, but the hubby has been working with me a lot. We climb almost exclusevely trad so I want to be more comfortable first.
+Esperanza+
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missedyno
Oct 7, 2002, 12:15 PM
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well, i set a record for myself last night...
led a nice crimpy 10b at the gym!!! the highest grade i've led so far. it was fun, i had my own style on the crux and got through it, took a fall on purpose to clear the cobwebs, and when i got to the top i actually pulled myself up to clip, instead of pulling a crapload of rope out and holding it in my teeth to clip early.
horray!
just wanted to share that.
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kcrag
Oct 7, 2002, 4:53 PM
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Leading is a love/hate relationship. It definitely changes the rules of the game. Still learning to lead trad... and it's a thrill I wouldn't trade for anything!
[ This Message was edited by: kcrag on 2002-10-13 10:57 ]
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yami
Oct 11, 2002, 4:03 PM
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I'm pretty new to climbing and so far really enjoy leading sport routes. My first lead was in Penitente, CO on "Ordinary People". Only two bolts so needless to say it was pretty runout. Although, at the time I didn't really realize the significance of the runout. Luckily I onsighted it. My biggest problem is preventing rope burns. So far I haven't had any really bad ones but just little guys that sting pretty bad for at least a week after. I've had six rope burns so far. I know to keep my legs and arms away from the rope and on the outside but it gets me almost everytime. Obviously, I'm not afraid of falling which may be part of my problem.
[ This Message was edited by: yami on 2002-10-11 09:14 ]
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bighigaz
Oct 15, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Erica, all I can say is, TAKE THE FALL! When I'm at a crux or making a hard clip, I just say it to my self over and over ("take the fall, chicken, what are you waiting for, FALL..." and so on), as if it doesn't matter or like I don't care (even though I may be lying). By some miracle I seem to make it through some of the time. And when I don't, I just take a quick glance at my feet... and let it fly. I think telling yourself you're willing to take the fall makes it a lot less intimidating... Hey, come climb the Lemmon some time, I'll show you around, and help you take some great falls!!
James.
[ This Message was edited by: bighigaz on 2002-10-15 13:07 ]
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climberchic
Oct 16, 2002, 3:42 PM
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Hahahaa...thanks James!
I know what I need to do and lilred is right. I just need to do it and then it won't be so bad. Thanks for the support!
~Erica
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ecocliffchick
Oct 16, 2002, 4:06 PM
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How do you fall and not get hurt? Most of the rock where I climb is vertical with quite a few large ledges, and I never want to "take the fall" because I don't want to whack myself into the rock or onto a ledge. Indoors, or on overhanging rock, I can see letting go and just falling, but when the terrain is vertical, there's no way I want to be falling.
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missedyno
Oct 17, 2002, 4:57 PM
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fall and not get hurt? are there any gyms around you that offer lead courses? that's the best thing, instead of someone trying to describe....
don't be afraid of slack. if you don't have slack, then there is a chance that you could get yanked into the wall. that's happened to me before from a potentially crappy belayer.
anyway, my big announcement:
in rumney this weekend i did my first outdoor lead send! i don't really care about the send, redpoint, onsight bla bla bla terminology.... but nevermind how other people describe it, all i know is that i lead outdoors with confidence. i was happy.
i am happy. i'm proud.
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rockwomyn
Oct 17, 2002, 8:51 PM
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Go Fawkes go....it's only up from here!!! We know you got the skills and the muscles, too!
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ecocliffchick
Oct 18, 2002, 2:11 PM
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Unfortunately, there really isn't much in the way of leading indoors at the gym in Guelph. We pretty much boulder two thirds of the way up the walls, and the routes definately aren't set up for leading - too many very small and greasy holds, that wouldn't allow for clipping. I did lead at Planet Rock in Michigan last weekend, and felt fine. I guess it really depends on the terrain. If I'm outside and the rock is overhung and there are lots of bolts, without runouts, I've got no problem - it's these run out vertical things that scare the $h!t out of me - and well, in Ontario -that's what you get (except at White Bluff).
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russmanswife
Oct 22, 2002, 8:14 PM
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i just started leading and i like it much better even though i have only done two easy 5.6 i want to try more. i really really want to try longer routes the ones i did were basically short three bolts and an anchor so i want to just test myself and see if i can go longer. guess now that i know i want to do it i have to fight with russ about who gets to lead what.
bobbi
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missedyno
Oct 22, 2002, 9:43 PM
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ha ha, very cool.
damian has no problem leading and it's very easy for me to back down and say "yeah okay you lead this one" because i know the chances are he'll do it no problem and i'll sit and hum and haw. but usually once i get up there i surprise myself and do okay.
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sroehlk
Dec 19, 2002, 11:26 PM
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It took a little mental boost to make my first intentional lead fall (in the gym) - it's all mental for me. Since then I've had a few falls that shook me. Right now I've been climbing in my safety zone and keep pushing it a little more each day.
[ This Message was edited by: sroehlk on 2002-12-20 07:16 ]
[ This Message was edited by: sroehlk on 2002-12-20 11:51 ]
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stellalpina
Dec 20, 2002, 5:53 PM
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im pretty new to the sport, so ive only had one opportunity to lead. it my insanely limited experience, all i can say is that i want to do it more! (damn the snow ) i loved the sense of adventure, and having to figure the route out, instead of following someone elses chalk marks. some of you have said that classes mess with your head, so are they worth it? or is it better to learn as you go while climbing with friends?
-- elena
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sroehlk
Dec 20, 2002, 8:04 PM
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If you have a friend who is an amazing lead climber and willing to teach you EVERYTHING you need to know - go for it. I'm lucky enough to work part time at a climbing gym with a great group of climbers. When I wanted to learn I just asked one of the guys who teaches lead lessons. Worked out pretty well for me
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climber1
Dec 21, 2002, 2:47 AM
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ladies. just wanted to pass this on. I feel like leading makes one a better climber (at least for me) leading demands more concentration than following. to get comfortable leading, just go out and lead climbs that are 2 or 3 levels below what you tr or follow. just my .02 cents
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squashed_spider
Dec 21, 2002, 2:51 AM
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i find that i climb better when i'm on the sharp end! i have to concentrate more and it makes my climbing better, but that's just me. i think it just depends on who you are.
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rosemom3
Dec 21, 2002, 5:36 AM
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I just started leading a few months ago after all of my male climbing buddies kept pushing it. Now I know why, it's quite the rush. However, it has diminished my perception of my climbing performance on TR. Also my performance period, I'm less comfortable. I will say that I would like the opportunity to lead a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8, but there are so few around here that I'm leading 5.9 uncomfortably and french freeing my way through the cruxes on 5.10's. The thing I really like about leading (trad)is the extra mental challenge of placing gear. I love my tri-cams so much!!!!! And have developed this weird propensity for hand size cams. Has this happened to anyone else? Tracy Renee
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figure08
Dec 24, 2002, 5:32 AM
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I like leading better than TRing. I've only done it a couple times, but I think I climb better when on lead because I have to focus more, and such a rush! I feel so awesome when I get to the top.
On the other hand, I don't really like bouldering (well, highballing) that much because I broke my foot a couple years ago doing it. I also get way more scared cleaning the same climb than leading it. Weird hu?
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ecocliffchick
Dec 31, 2002, 2:14 AM
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To those of you who regularly lead outdoors, do you find yourselves getting injured more now that you're leading and have you had any scary experiences?
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ximiana
Dec 31, 2002, 6:54 AM
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Yes i like but at the same time i have fear...much much fear, but is and incredible sensation.
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swohletz
Jan 3, 2003, 12:25 PM
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I love leading...after my first lead I was hooked I especially love the mental aspect of it, fighting the fear and remaining calm in the midst of it....even enjoying it. The adrenaline is a huge plus as well
As for injuries, I haven't been leading for all so long but it seems to depend on the route what the potential for injury is--falling off an overhang could mean slamming hard into the rock vs a fall on a vertical wall which is pretty benign in my experience. I only lead climb with belayers I trust A LOT, which hopefully leads to prevention of injury. Lead climbing is higher risk (thus the extra adrenaline) which means more potential for injury. However, if I weigh my abilities wisely against the grade of a climb, leading a few points below my confident TR climbing level, and make sure I am climbing safely with a safe belayer, then my potential to get hurt will hopefully drop. As always in climbing, anything can happen.....climb on
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swohletz
Jan 3, 2003, 12:27 PM
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Oh side note....as for scary experiences....lead belaying with a grigri in the gym last weekend was about the scariest thing I've ever done....solidifying my tendency to only belay with an ATC. It was super sketchy.
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rockrat17
Jan 3, 2003, 6:41 PM
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leading is fun....but scary. I like it, but
i've had my own share of scary falls etc.
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pals
Jan 13, 2003, 11:54 AM
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I like to lead.
Leading is Scary, yet fun.
I'm nearly fearless except on scree
I need to get more experience with it.
especially with doing on scree I go very slow but feel I can get much better with practice and confidence.
From what little leading I've done... I love it.
Not afraid of falling.
pals
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ecocliffchick
Jan 13, 2003, 3:04 PM
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Why were you afraid of lead belaying with a Gri gri? I find using the gri gri is a bit trickier the first day or two - but in the long run (especially if your partner is much heavier than you and working a route) it is so much easier and more reliable.
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aimeerose
Feb 4, 2003, 4:38 AM
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I too love to lead, and I'm glad to see so many other women do too. I was feeling hopeless at the beginning of these posts! I usually hang the draws when my husband and I are out climbing. Of course, he'll hang them for me on my projects if I want him too. It is so much more rewarding to me to onsight something if I'm leading it or redpoint it on lead. It's all a matter of controlling your mind, especially with redpointing. I can have a route so wired and still screw up if I'm leading, so just keeping it together until the anchors is rewarding.
I also lead on gear. I just did Crimson Chrysallis a few weekends back and led the crux pitches. I was psyched!
I'm not looking forward to getting pregnant and not being able to lead for months. Leading is integral to climbing for me. It's nice to be self-sufficient too. I never have to rely on anyone else when I go climbing and I can take my less experienced friends out and set up climbs for them.
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punk
Feb 4, 2003, 5:38 AM
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Leading is great and falling is ok on sport on trad majority of the time the pieces will hold but then once it didn’t…but all it take is once and u get yourself banged pretty badly or worse…
Saying that I’m a fearless leader is saying I love to play Russian roulette with a 45 the odds to injury will increase the longer you lead
Be humble and controlled fear is good for you will keeps you on your tows
fearless climbers die everyday
now go ahead and lead just know what u dealing with
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zeta
Feb 5, 2003, 5:44 AM
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I started out leading when i was just learning to climb and had some falls that freaked me out so i didn't lead for a LONG while. Then i got back into it last spring and was getting more comfortable. Slowly working back into doing it again. Then got way nervous doing a trad lead at the Gunks and haven't really led since (doing "mock leads" in the gym don't really count) I know I know I gotta get back on the horse and work on it some more. Reading this thread has gotten me all re-encouraged. Gracias
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missedyno
Feb 25, 2003, 2:13 AM
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sigh. i'm always posting in here. dang lead head!!!
i fantasize about leading and falling, the catch and then getting back on. reality is, when i'm leading i'm doubtful, shakey, no confidence....
progress must be being made because from what i've heard i don't look really shakey on the climb. if they only knew what was going through my head! or maybe they're just nice. sigh.
i love the idea, i just don't know if i can push myself to do it all the time.
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iamthewallress
Feb 25, 2003, 2:18 AM
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This is just plain spray, but what the heck! Last weekend I got to do my first 'real' (as in not 5 grades below where I can climb) lead since I tore my ACL and had surgery 4 months ago. I was totally scared. It felt like free-solo rules since a fall would have almost certainly botched the surgery. It was so exhilherating to be back on the sharp end though!
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ecocliffchick
Feb 25, 2003, 4:48 PM
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Well, I just spent the week in Red Rocks and it was great. There were some easy climbs I could lead comfortably, but I still preferred to just clean the draws on toprope when I was climbing the tough routes. The next step will be working to redpoint those tough routes on lead after TRing them a few times. If only there was more time! Now I'm back in the land of ice and snow and outdoor climbing seems so far away...
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