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AeroXan


Feb 1, 2008, 6:48 PM
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bar tack failure
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has anyone seen/heard of bar tacks failing on slings? I heard that they are a stress riser point so that's why i figured they put so many on (I've seen six on most slings). I would think they would overengineer the bar tacks so it would be stronger than the rest of the sling.


ja1484


Feb 1, 2008, 6:51 PM
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Re: [AeroXan] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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AeroXan wrote:
has anyone seen/heard of bar tacks failing on slings? I heard that they are a stress riser point so that's why i figured they put so many on (I've seen six on most slings). I would think they would overengineer the bar tacks so it would be stronger than the rest of the sling.


When new, yes, bartacks are stronger than the sling themselves typically.

I've never heard of a sling failing at the tacks - in fact, it's a pretty rare thing for slings to fail at all under any circumstances. They're usually cut or chemically damaged, because god knows they're not the weakest part of a safety system - that'd likely be either the rock or knots in rope/cordage.


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Feb 5, 2008, 10:08 PM)


Adk


Feb 5, 2008, 4:15 AM
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Re: [AeroXan] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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Bar tacks are tough! With properly engineered bar tacks your body is going to break before the bar tack.
I would bet that the weakest part of any of your gear would be pro placement followed by your bones breaking!
Is there research as to how close they should be, what thread they should be sewn with and how hong they should be as well as the proximity of one tack to another?
I bet there is.
I bar tacked by hand, some nylon way back in 1981ish and took some pretty good falls. And yes they hurt! Then, I wasn't even in my teenage years. I'm sure my body would have broke before the tacks did.
I had that piece up until about 8 years ago just to
show folks what I did.Crazy
Worry about placing pro and feel confident about those bar tacks. Even when heavily abraded they are still TOUGH!!!
So to answer your specific question..have I ever heard of bar tacks failing? Not in a climbing situation I haven't ...though others here may have.


Partner slacklinejoe


Feb 5, 2008, 9:55 PM
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Re: [Adk] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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Adk wrote:
Is there research as to how close they should be, what thread they should be sewn with and how hong they should be as well as the proximity of one tack to another?

There are too many variables to have a clear cut answer. It depends on the width, thickness of material, stitch pattern and the width of the thread. Basically you want to keep the tack from having so many stitches that it distorts the weaves natural lines to retain strength but still have enough to get your desired strength level.

Generally speaking the most commonly used threads are bonded nylon or spectra thread in climbing applications. Spectra thread is a absolute PITA to work with as well as very expensive (both in different cutters, needles, increased labor and the thread itself). Bonded nylon (woven strands with a coating to keep it slick, cool the needles and to resist fraying) is readily available online and is often in the TH69 or TH92 sizes for outdoor gear.

TH69 thread is approximately 10 lbs tensile test depending on the supplier and the coating. There are many different types of bartack machine cams but the most common in my experience are the 42 stitch ones for tacks up to 1" wide. That's ~420lbs tensile test per bartack made with bonded nylon TH69.

Spectra is stronger / stitch but I dont' remember the numbers. I think it was closer to 19 lbs / stitch.


stymingersfink


Feb 6, 2008, 1:08 AM
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Adk wrote:
Bar tacks are tough! <snip>
So to answer your specific question..have I ever heard of bar tacks failing? Not in a climbing situation I haven't ...though others here may have.

the bartacks on daisy-chain loops have been known to fail at times when pilot-air (or error, as the case may be) resulted in a daisy-fall while aid-climbing. Those pockets are only rated to 2kn though, so it shouldn't be any big surprise. The daisy-chain itself usually doesn't completely fail catastrophically (AFAIK), but I suppose it could happen were one to FF2 onto the thing.


Partner gunksgoer


Feb 6, 2008, 1:24 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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I wouldnt want to take a factor 2 fall on a spectra daisey chain! I doubt it would break the bar tacks but it may break bones.


ja1484


Feb 6, 2008, 1:25 AM
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stymingersfink wrote:
Adk wrote:
Bar tacks are tough! <snip>
So to answer your specific question..have I ever heard of bar tacks failing? Not in a climbing situation I haven't ...though others here may have.

the bartacks on daisy-chain loops have been known to fail at times when pilot-air (or error, as the case may be) resulted in a daisy-fall while aid-climbing. Those pockets are only rated to 2kn though, so it shouldn't be any big surprise. The daisy-chain itself usually doesn't completely fail catastrophically (AFAIK), but I suppose it could happen were one to FF2 onto the thing.


I'm inclined to think the climber would break before the daisy does, although I can see a truly nasty FF2 full length onto a daisy (say a ~8-10' static fall) potentially doing both.


stymingersfink


Feb 6, 2008, 3:45 AM
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I've taken one short (18-20") pendulum fall (the good piece was 3' to the left) onto a daisy when a questionable cam-hook proved itself a time-bomb with a lit fuse. Short fall, but VERY jarring to the hips and back. It was more than enough to give me an even healthier respect for avoiding such situations.

No, nothing ripped or broke, but I was glad for the stretchy properties of nylon in at least that instance. Never again (i hope and plan).


Adk


Feb 6, 2008, 9:35 AM
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Re: [slacklinejoe] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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slacklinejoe wrote:
Adk wrote:
Is there research as to how close they should be, what thread they should be sewn with and how hong they should be as well as the proximity of one tack to another?

There are too many variables to have a clear cut answer. It depends on the width, thickness of material, stitch pattern and the width of the thread. Basically you want to keep the tack from having so many stitches that it distorts the weaves natural lines to retain strength but still have enough to get your desired strength level.

Generally speaking the most commonly used threads are bonded nylon or spectra thread in climbing applications. Spectra thread is a absolute PITA to work with as well as very expensive (both in different cutters, needles, increased labor and the thread itself). Bonded nylon (woven strands with a coating to keep it slick, cool the needles and to resist fraying) is readily available online and is often in the TH69 or TH92 sizes for outdoor gear.

TH69 thread is approximately 10 lbs tensile test depending on the supplier and the coating. There are many different types of bartack machine cams but the most common in my experience are the 42 stitch ones for tacks up to 1" wide. That's ~420lbs tensile test per bartack made with bonded nylon TH69.

Spectra is stronger / stitch but I dont' remember the numbers. I think it was closer to 19 lbs / stitch.

and that info right there folks was acquired through research. Thanks for the info. Interesting.


knudenoggin


Feb 6, 2008, 6:44 PM
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Re: [AeroXan] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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AeroXan wrote:
has anyone seen/heard of bar tacks failing on slings? I heard that they are a stress riser point so that's why i figured they put so many on (I've seen six on most slings). I would think they would overengineer the bar tacks so it would be stronger than the rest of the sling.
You might want to think about how a joint can be stronger than the
material
--I don't buy it (but one can see it said). That said, it
might be that such a joint isn't as weak as the bend of material around
'biners, et cetera, which is a practical measure. IIRC, I've seen some
test reports (Tom Moyer's misc. pull testing?) where the stitched part
failed (and failed at a lower force than a Ring Bend!?).

From what I've read, bar tacking is not the strongest way to stitch
webbing; slings used in heavy lifting have a sort of "box" & "X"
stitching. Given how narrow esp. the "dental floss" tape is, the
bar tacking is simpler to do, I guess--and is good enough.

*kN*


Adk


Feb 7, 2008, 12:39 AM
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Re: [knudenoggin] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You might want to think about how a joint can be stronger than the
material
--I don't buy it (but one can see it said). That said, it
might be that such a joint isn't as weak as the bend of material around
'biners, et cetera, which is a practical measure. IIRC, I've seen some
test reports (Tom Moyer's misc. pull testing?) where the stitched part
failed (and failed at a lower force than a Ring Bend!?).

From what I've read, bar tacking is not the strongest way to stitch
webbing; slings used in heavy lifting have a sort of "box" & "X"
stitching. Given how narrow esp. the "dental floss" tape is, the
bar tacking is simpler to do, I guess--and is good enough.

*kN*

We all have seen those magic sewn "boxed "x's"
No doubt that they are strong.
I'm wondering what performs better if abraded. I'm guessing the bar tack. If the bar tack is the winner than it's the way to go for our climbing purposes.
Those hoist slings I don't think see nearly as much rock as our bar tacks.
This stitching info is out there somewhere.....


stymingersfink


Feb 7, 2008, 12:52 AM
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Adk wrote:
In reply to:
You might want to think about how a joint can be stronger than the
material
--I don't buy it (but one can see it said). That said, it
might be that such a joint isn't as weak as the bend of material around
'biners, et cetera, which is a practical measure. IIRC, I've seen some
test reports (Tom Moyer's misc. pull testing?) where the stitched part
failed (and failed at a lower force than a Ring Bend!?).

From what I've read, bar tacking is not the strongest way to stitch
webbing; slings used in heavy lifting have a sort of "box" & "X"
stitching. Given how narrow esp. the "dental floss" tape is, the
bar tacking is simpler to do, I guess--and is good enough.

*kN*

We all have seen those magic sewn "boxed "x's"
No doubt that they are strong.
I'm wondering what performs better if abraded. I'm guessing the bar tack. If the bar tack is the winner than it's the way to go for our climbing purposes.
Those hoist slings I don't think see nearly as much rock as our bar tacks.
This stitching info is out there somewhere.....
and when you add in the fact that the industrial slings of which we are speaking of are usually purchased by companies which cannot afford to deal with catastrophic failure due to worn gear, especially when factoring in OSHA...

The slings I've seen used often wear out at the eye before anywhere else, usually attributable to questionable rigging more than any other factor.

no doubt about it, industrial slings are strong, but they're far too bulky and heavy to even consider taking up a route.Tongue


AeroXan


Feb 7, 2008, 4:59 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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no doubt about it, industrial slings are strong, but they're far too bulky and heavy to even consider taking up a route.Tongue

good point, there's no way you could fit an x pattern on a spectra sling.

thanks everyone for all the info.


ja1484


Feb 7, 2008, 5:09 PM
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Re: [AeroXan] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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Not sure about spectra, but take a look at any nylon-slung Tricam you have around - they've always used the X-Box stitching instead of tacking.

Interesting...


Partner slacklinejoe


Feb 7, 2008, 5:12 PM
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It's actually pretty simple. Box tacks are technically stronger because they distort the natural weave of the webbing less and spread their load bearing nature over a larger area. The reason they aren't used in our applications is that to get enough stitches to maintain strength will require a large area of the sling for sewing as well as increase labor (and thus prices). It would also make the sewn joint 5 x larger, thus making it more bulky, stiff and unmanagable.

Industrial slings are sewn with cordage, not standard thread. This cordage when used in 1" or smaller webbing would distort the weave. It has a much higher tensile strength 30+ lbs so you need far fewer stitches. Together, that makes it practical on large items to use a box tack.


moof


Feb 11, 2008, 6:20 PM
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Below is from http://www.xmission.com/...ull_tests_11_98.html:

This is the same guy who wrote the high strength cord paper. The gyst si that bar tacks are damn strong, but they ARE stress risers. See also the book "On Rope" which also has some summarized results of different sewing patterns for slings. Strongest is a large section of lengthwise zig-zag lines of stitches.

For our (climber) purposes the drop in strength of the bar tack is on par or stronger than the resulting stress rizer going over the small diamter of a carabiner.

"11/18 Test #3:

Pull a new 1" tubular sewn web sling to failure. One of our members sewed the sling on his home machine with a random stitching pattern (for testing purposes only!) The sling was loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Failure of the stitching at 5260 lbs.

11/23 Test #3

Repeat of 11/18 Test #3

Result: Failure of the stitching at 5920 lbs.

11/18 Test #4

Pull a new 1" tubular sewn web sling to failure. The sling was sewn professionally with 5 bar tacks. The sling was loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Failure of the stitching at 4720 lbs.

11/23 Test #2

Repeat of 11/18 Test #4

Result: Failure of the stitching at 4730 lbs.

11/18 Test #5

Pull a new 1" tubular web sling to failure. The sling was tied with a water knot and loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Material failure in the knot at 4980 lbs."


renneberg


Feb 11, 2008, 8:06 PM
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Re: [moof] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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Bar tack climbing webbing with 138 thread... Not 69.
double fishermans is strongest. Box with X next...
Bar tacks are easily inspected, redundant, do not loosen and are less bulky than knots.
Bar tacks are obviously strong enough...


AeroXan


Feb 11, 2008, 8:27 PM
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neat stuff! that's interesting that the amateur bar tacks held more than the professional ones. maybe that was because there were 5 bar tacks instead of 6? it would be interesting to compare the number of stitches between the professional tacks and the home grown ones. I imagine the big difference with the professional machines is repeatability and continuous use. i was surprised to see that the water knot held more than the pro bar tacks. I've never been sketched about bar tacks, I think they are plenty strong for their purposes. but this is really neat stuff to see. thanx for the info.


moof


Feb 11, 2008, 8:45 PM
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Even though some home grown samples outperformed professionally bar tacked ones doesn't mean we should all go sew our own of course. The difference between 5 and 6 tacks is likely a red herring. Without getting a larger sample size, the results are mostly just "interesting" To compare joints you would want all the slings sewn/tied off of the same rolls of webbing.

Professional ones usually go through batch testing, and get a 3 sigma strength rating. If you just cobble to together at home, you have no guarantees, and no control.

I sew a lot of NON-life support, non-full strength gear for myself and others. Lately it's been Russian Aiders, which have to be strong, but are not holding falls, or acting as the sole life support like a harness. From all of this I've become keenly aware that a few bar tacks would take a couple second, while it takes me ~5-10 minutes per zig-zag joint to laboriously go back and forth. Mine are also all unique. Even though I have tons of stitches such that I know they are strong, I can't ever claim an average or 3 sigma strength without both testing them AND having a very repeatable pattern (ie, not done by hand).

At the first order, say just putting in a dozen stitches the literature says you get about 1.8X the threads tensile strength per stitch (due to loading in shear, and there being two strands of thread in cross section). So the first order approximation for on my my 2" joints with about 250 #69 (11lb) stitches is ~5000 lbs. Reality is that once you approach the strength of the webbing there are other phenomenon that kick that determine the overall strength.


(This post was edited by moof on Jun 20, 2009, 3:38 AM)


gunkiemike


Feb 11, 2008, 10:01 PM
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knudenoggin wrote:
You might want to think about how a joint can be stronger than the
material
--I don't buy it

It's really quite simple - you put so many stitches in there that you effectively fuse two thicknesses of webbing together. With enough stitches, those two layers will be much stronger than (approaching twice as strong as) a single layer of the same webbing, so it breaks at the latter. If the stitches let go, you just re-do it with more stitches.


moondog


Feb 11, 2008, 10:25 PM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
It's actually pretty simple. Box tacks are technically stronger because they distort the natural weave of the webbing less and spread their load bearing nature over a larger area.

According to a 1974 article by Carl Magnussen in the Nylon Highway, the "X-in-a-box" stitch is one of the weakest patterns. See below for link; the article is titled "How Strong Is A Stitched Splice In Nylon Webbing" and begins on page 11. Carl was REI's QA/Testing manager at the time of publication.

http://www.caves.org/...ical/nhback/NH03.pdf


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 1:03 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
knudenoggin wrote:
You might want to think about how a joint can be stronger than the
material
--I don't buy it

It's really quite simple - you put so many stitches in there that you effectively fuse two thicknesses of webbing together. With enough stitches, those two layers will be much stronger than (approaching twice as strong as) a single layer of the same webbing, so it breaks at the latter. If the stitches let go, you just re-do it with more stitches.

You can have a joint with a joint efficiency greater than 1, but not for the reason you claim; no matter how many stitches you use to join two pieces of material, one stacked on the other, the two pieces of material do not "effectively fuse" and act as one super-strong piece of material. There are seams in parachutes with joint efficiency greater than 1. I assume that this is achieved by using seams that change the way that the material being joined is stressed when the parachute canopy opens.

Jay


gunkiemike


Feb 12, 2008, 1:21 AM
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jt512 wrote:
You can have a joint with a joint efficiency greater than 1, but not for the reason you claim; no matter how many stitches you use to join two pieces of material, one stacked on the other, the two pieces of material do not "effectively fuse" and act as one super-strong piece of material.

(speculation re. parachute construction snipped)

Jay

OK, so maybe my choice of the word "fuse" made you think of "one piece" of material, but that's silly. Webbing is a mass of thousands of interwoven filaments. Two webbings sewn so tightly together that they won't separate under the greatest stress is now 2n thousand filaments acting together. Do you really have a problem with that being much stronger?


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 1:54 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
You can have a joint with a joint efficiency greater than 1, but not for the reason you claim; no matter how many stitches you use to join two pieces of material, one stacked on the other, the two pieces of material do not "effectively fuse" and act as one super-strong piece of material.

(speculation re. parachute construction snipped)

Jay

OK, so maybe my choice of the word "fuse" made you think of "one piece" of material, but that's silly. Webbing is a mass of thousands of interwoven filaments. Two webbings sewn so tightly together that they won't separate under the greatest stress is now 2n thousand filaments acting together. Do you really have a problem with that being much stronger?

I have a problem with the idea that the tightness of the joint is very important. You're not going to introduce enough friction between the two pieces of webbing, in practice, to add much to the strength of the joint. Your analysis makes no mention of the material used to join the webbing, or the stitch used. We're talking about sewing two pieces of webbing together, not weaving them together, so there is an interaction between the stitching and the webbing fibers that ought to generally weaken the joint relative to the material. So whether the webbing is stacked tightly or loosely (or not stacked at all) you still have the strength of the seam limited by the strength of the webbing and the strength of the thread (or whatever you're using to join the webbing).

Perhaps if you used enough bar tacks, with strong enough thread, then you could achieve a joint with efficiency greater than 1. You might be able to spread the force out over enough of the webbing so that the webbing wouldn't fail at the stitching, and then if the thread itself were strong enough, the joint might be stronger than the native webbing. Again, I don't think this has a whole lot to do with how tight the webbing is stacked.

As to my "speculating" about parachute seams, as it happens, I'm an FAA licensed Senior Parachute Rigger, and though I don't understand the physics underlying greater-than-one seam efficiency parachute seams, I am not speculating when I say that they exist.

Now, in light of the fact that there are qualified materials engineers on this site, who can probably answer this question definitively, I have the sense not to take this much further. Do you?

Jay


gunkiemike


Feb 12, 2008, 2:39 AM
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jt512 wrote:
Perhaps if you used enough bar tacks, with strong enough thread, then you could achieve a joint with efficiency greater than 1. You might be able to spread the force out over enough of the webbing so that the webbing wouldn't fail at the stitching, and then if the thread itself were strong enough, the joint might be stronger than the native webbing.

That's all I'm saying. I don't think we disagree. Stitches are added until the above is true. If someone has a better explanation, I'm all ears.

(Sorry for the implied cheapshot re. parachutes)


knudenoggin


Feb 12, 2008, 4:24 PM
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gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Perhaps if you used enough bar tacks, with strong enough thread, then you could achieve a joint with efficiency greater than 1. You might be able to spread the force out over enough of the webbing so that the webbing wouldn't fail at the stitching, and then if the thread itself were strong enough, the joint might be stronger than the native webbing.

That's all I'm saying. I don't think we disagree. Stitches are added until the above is true. If someone has a better explanation, I'm all ears.
And my point is that I cannot conceive of the tacked materia having
an even transfer of load to share it w/o some slight weakening;
that AT THE POINT OF INITIAL CONTACT the pure, untouched tape
will be stronger than its entry to the stitched section. (Certainly in the
midst of overlapped, stitched-together pieces of material, it is stronger;
but how do you get from single to multiple thicknesses w/o some loss
of efficiency (unlike a swaged spoke)?!)

So, I remain skeptical of such claims (and don't know of testing to show
even an apparent contradiction (and nb: the comparison would be between
stitched (or knotted, for that matter) material vs. pure material,
not necessarily just examining where the break occurs, within/at or
outside of the joint!)).

*kN*


knudenoggin


Feb 12, 2008, 4:55 PM
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moondog wrote:
According to a 1974 article by Carl Magnussen in the Nylon Highway, the "X-in-a-box" stitch is one of the weakest patterns.
Thanks for the link (and the paper is beside me, for the looking!)--issue #3!

The strongest pattern, according to this testing, was a dense 'WWWW' pattern
where the 'WW' is seen on a vertical tape section, and quite narrow; where they tried a *wider* "W" pattern--and hence had less stitching--,
it was weaker. And the bar-tacking I think is vey short "W"s in series,
and this was not bad.
Turning the 'W' sideways, to be more cross-axis oriented, both the
extended
Z
Z
Z
Z
and bar-tack-like sequences of short "Z" sections were noticeably weaker.

Using the strongest pattern in thinner/weaker tape, the testing found the
splice to fail at the splice, "by webbing fracture". This is consistent
with my belief re the splice being a weakening (if only slight).

*kN*


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Feb 12, 2008, 5:21 PM
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jt512 wrote:
You're not going to introduce enough friction between the two pieces of webbing, in practice, to add much to the strength of the joint.
Jay

Jay,

From my understanding, actually it is possible in certain real world situations. Take a look at belay loops. The tacks are fewer than on an end loop but the resulting strength is higher. Yes the material is stronger because it is a loop but the bond on the webbing between those must support a higher bond than the non-looped counterpart would withstand.

Dunno, there is likely something at play there that I'm forgetting but my understanding was that the friction from the wrapped webbing in the belay loop was such that even with minimal sewing the friction provided adequate bonding.

The other example worth mentioning is if I run a peice of webbing through my bartacker with no thread the pushing and pulling of threads resulting form the needle in some materials can actually yeild some minor holding strength. Not all webs do that but some do.


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 5:43 PM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
jt512 wrote:
You're not going to introduce enough friction between the two pieces of webbing, in practice, to add much to the strength of the joint.
Jay

Jay,

From my understanding, actually it is possible in certain real world situations. Take a look at belay loops. The tacks are fewer than on an end loop but the resulting strength is higher. Yes the material is stronger because it is a loop but the bond on the webbing between those must support a higher bond than the non-looped counterpart would withstand.

Dunno, there is likely something at play there that I'm forgetting but my understanding was that the friction from the wrapped webbing in the belay loop was such that even with minimal sewing the friction provided adequate bonding.

I don't really follow you. I see nothing in your argument to suggest that friction between the two ends of the material that are bar tacked to form the loop adds to the strength of the joint significantly.

Jay


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Feb 12, 2008, 5:48 PM
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I shouldn't post without caffeine.

Basically in the belay loop scenario the webbing on webbing friction of the wrap adds a significant amount of strength. Similar to that of any friction hitch or the "no knot" tie off method.

Thus, less stitching can be used than a standard rabbit ear style loop and still yield a much higher break strength.


(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 12, 2008, 5:49 PM)


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 6:21 PM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
I shouldn't post without caffeine.

Basically in the belay loop scenario the webbing on webbing friction of the wrap adds a significant amount of strength. Similar to that of any friction hitch or the "no knot" tie off method.

Thus, less stitching can be used than a standard rabbit ear style loop and still yield a much higher break strength.

First of all, the claim I was addressing is that friction between the overlapping ends of material that are bar tacked together is an important component of strength of the bar tack. Friction between the belay loop and the harness, if that's what you're referring to as the "wrap," is not relevant to the question. Second, the original question was about bar tacks in a sling, which is also a loop, so whatever effect looping has, if any, on the strength of a bar tack in a belay loop also applies to the strength of a bar tack in a sling. Finally, who says that you really can attain the same strength from a seam in a belay loop by using fewer bar tacks than would be required in a runner?

Jay


Partner slacklinejoe


Feb 12, 2008, 6:26 PM
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"jt512 wrote:
Finally, who says that you really can attain the same strength from a seam in a belay loop by using fewer bar tacks than would be required in a runner?
Jay

Real world field testing. With all due respect please keep in mind, I do design and test high tensile sewn webbing goods for my full time job.

Jay, within the confines of my intended disclaimer of loops vs rabbit runner style sewing the variable is webbing on webbing friction. My force testing has shown that a single wrap of webbing on itself adds a more than significant measurable of additional pull strength. We were able to have a single wrap of duct tape hold suprising loads in that scenario.

I do not enjoy the "great debate" pissing match. I do however dislike incorrect information being spread much more. In no way was I refering to friction between the belay loop and harness and most people with a decent reading comprehension understood that. This is the lab, if you want people from the industry with real world and professional exerience posting up information then slowing down the jabs would be a positive thing for rockclimbing.com as it would better encourage participation from field experts.


(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 12, 2008, 6:38 PM)


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 6:40 PM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
"jt512 wrote:
Finally, who says that you really can attain the same strength from a seam in a belay loop by using fewer bar tacks than would be required in a runner?
Jay

Real world field testing. With all due respect please keep in mind, I do design and test high tensile sewn webbing goods for my full time job.

The problem with so-called real-world field testing is that the conditions of the "test" are not controlled. In normal use a belay loop is not used in the same manner as a sewn runner. Therefore, conclusions about the relative strength of each based on actual use are contaminated by differences in how they are actually used. Furthermore, the materials aren't even the same! "With all due respect, please keep in mind" that legitimate climbing equipment companies don't determine the strength of their equipment based on anecdotal observations of field use. They perform tests under controlled conditions, as required by certificating bodies, not to mention common sense.

Jay


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Feb 12, 2008, 6:50 PM
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Jay,

Perhaps you'd be better off asking how we did the tests rather than implying that the tests were unrelated, misleading or incomplete.

It certainly might be that I've got a big old stack of real pull test data with calibrated systems with lovely control variables, denoted webbing batchs, thread types, webbing color (yes, that sometimes actually makes a difference), levels before plastic deformation, elongation levels at different loads and tons of different types of webbing that we tested (we've made and sold polyester, polypro, nylon, nylon/spectra) and in lots of different widths. It's amazing what an engineering school will do for you if you let them use your products in a study. But frankly - your ego gets in the way of learning so I've gotta get back to work instead of posting up stuff people might find very interesting.


(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 12, 2008, 6:51 PM)


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 6:52 PM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
Jay,

Perhaps you'd be better off asking how we did the tests rather than implying that the tests were unrelated, misleading or incomplete.

I didn't say you didn't have real test data. You were the one making claims based on "real world field experience." It was that I was calling bullshit.

Edit: Although the fact that you chose to try and dazzle us with a lot of technical lingo instead of just posting the data, suggests that you probably don't have relevant data.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 12, 2008, 6:56 PM)


crackers


Feb 12, 2008, 6:57 PM
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jt512 wrote:
As to my "speculating" about parachute seams, as it happens, I'm an FAA licensed Senior Parachute Rigger, and though I don't understand the physics underlying greater-than-one seam efficiency parachute seams, I am not speculating when I say that they exist.

Okay, I have to confess that I've been reading this whole thread in something like horror. I really think that a lot of this thread is not too informed.

My office is next to that of the world's most advanced parachute manufacturer, I'm going to wander over there and ask a few questions. But it's not a priority for me, and my wife is having surgery on Thursday, so I'll get around to it when I do. I do know a bit about sewing standards and I do manufacture critical application materials in webbing and in fabric.

I know that seams in fabric with joint efficiency greater than 1 exist, but I didn't think you reproducibly sew them. As far as I know off the top of my head, LSc-4 has a seam efficiency in the high 80% range...btw LSc-4 is a variety of a felled seam used in military parachutes. I really don't know though.

With glue and other stuff, you get to 100% easily. In our non-woven dyneema packs, the seams are far far stronger than the material being bonded.

But so what? Webbing has almost none of the performance characteristics of fabric. They're totally different things. I wouldn't necessarily say it's stupid to compare the construction of the fabric in a parachute canopy to a climbing sling, but it is of limited use.

If you really want to find out everything there is to know about sling construction, try researching the US Military's voluminous experimentation in ways to put webbing together for climbing slings and a plethora of other applications.

In all seriousness, aviation and 'chutes have driven most of the serious research on the comparative strength of webbing and techniques of assembly. That said, not all of the research in this field has been done by parachute folks, and I really find Jay's tone objectionable.

I think that I recall that the approximate breaking strength quoted by most manufacturers of 1" tubular webbing is something like 4,000 pounds. So what precisely is your problem with a (as in one) 4700 pound break? Stress Riser? Oh jeez...

Having responded to the troll, I'm going back to my bar tack machine. Bye!


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 8:47 PM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
... a single wrap of webbing on itself adds a more than significant measurable of additional pull strength.

OK. One of the things that had me confused is what you meant by a "wrap" in a belay loop." I took a look at a belay loop on an old harness of mine, and now I see what you are talking about. I had never noticed that belay loops are constructed like that. I always thought they were just two loops of webbing sewn together. Anyway, I agree with you on that point. It is clear that the friction is significant in that design. But I still don't think that has much relevance to the issue that I had been addressing, which is whether the friction between the overlapping ends of a bar tacked runner is a major component of the strength of the joint. I doubt it. There's a big difference between an overlap and a full wrap.

Jay


gunkiemike


Feb 12, 2008, 9:44 PM
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jt512 wrote:
slacklinejoe wrote:
Jay,

Perhaps you'd be better off asking how we did the tests rather than implying that the tests were unrelated, misleading or incomplete.

I didn't say you didn't have real test data. You were the one making claims based on "real world field experience." It was that I was calling bullshit.

Edit: Although the fact that you chose to try and dazzle us with a lot of technical lingo instead of just posting the data, suggests that you probably don't have relevant data.

Jay
Egregious mis-quote there Jay. Scroll up and see for yourself. BIG DIFFERENCE between "experience" (anecdotal, usually) and "testing" (controlled evaluation, usually). I have to wonder if you're blinded by the desire to argue.


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 10:06 PM
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gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
slacklinejoe wrote:
Jay,

Perhaps you'd be better off asking how we did the tests rather than implying that the tests were unrelated, misleading or incomplete.

I didn't say you didn't have real test data. You were the one making claims based on "real world field experience." It was that I was calling bullshit.

Edit: Although the fact that you chose to try and dazzle us with a lot of technical lingo instead of just posting the data, suggests that you probably don't have relevant data.

Jay
Egregious mis-quote there Jay. Scroll up and see for yourself. BIG DIFFERENCE between "experience" (anecdotal, usually) and "testing" (controlled evaluation, usually). I have to wonder if you're blinded by the desire to argue.

I don't misquote. That wasn't the paragraph I was quoting. Try again.

Jay


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Feb 12, 2008, 10:07 PM
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To put my point into perspective, one should ask themselves what the difference between a full wrap as in a belay loop and a partial wrap in the case of a standard sling.

There are often only a couple bartacks (1-4) in a belay loop and longitudal stiches to keep the webbing in place and they break at a much higher level than a standard 6 tack sling made out of the same material. There are several forces at work that make that happen, friction is not negligable in the equation. Obviously the webbing being doubled makes the resulting loop stronger, but the point to ponder is how it does it with less stitches.

I personally feel the lab should be held to a higher standard than the choss pile / community forums if RC hopes to reach the goals of the forum itself, which is real progress in education and understanding. I don't post in those other forums because of the signal to noise ratio and I don't want it to happen here.


(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 12, 2008, 10:10 PM)


russwalling


Feb 12, 2008, 10:16 PM
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Strength comes from: total area of friction (more in a belay loop, less in simple overlap), thread strength, and saturation pattern Vs. the physical limits of the material being sewn. Bar tacks will also "series load" to spread out the force from each end of the lap towards the center.

Now what was the original Q?


gunkiemike


Feb 12, 2008, 10:51 PM
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jt512 wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
slacklinejoe wrote:
Jay,

Perhaps you'd be better off asking how we did the tests rather than implying that the tests were unrelated, misleading or incomplete.

I didn't say you didn't have real test data. You were the one making claims based on "real world field experience." It was that I was calling bullshit.

Edit: Although the fact that you chose to try and dazzle us with a lot of technical lingo instead of just posting the data, suggests that you probably don't have relevant data.

Jay
Egregious mis-quote there Jay. Scroll up and see for yourself. BIG DIFFERENCE between "experience" (anecdotal, usually) and "testing" (controlled evaluation, usually). I have to wonder if you're blinded by the desire to argue.

I don't misquote. That wasn't the paragraph I was quoting. Try again.

Jay

Nope, sorry...can't find where SLJ ever used in this thread the phrase you put in quotes. What'd I miss?

(Just trying to referee the dialog here...not fan the conflagration)


jt512


Feb 12, 2008, 11:24 PM
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gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
slacklinejoe wrote:
Jay,

Perhaps you'd be better off asking how we did the tests rather than implying that the tests were unrelated, misleading or incomplete.

I didn't say you didn't have real test data. You were the one making claims based on "real world field experience." It was that I was calling bullshit.

Edit: Although the fact that you chose to try and dazzle us with a lot of technical lingo instead of just posting the data, suggests that you probably don't have relevant data.

Jay
Egregious mis-quote there Jay. Scroll up and see for yourself. BIG DIFFERENCE between "experience" (anecdotal, usually) and "testing" (controlled evaluation, usually). I have to wonder if you're blinded by the desire to argue.

I don't misquote. That wasn't the paragraph I was quoting. Try again.

Jay

Nope, sorry...can't find where SLJ ever used in this thread the phrase you put in quotes. What'd I miss?

(Just trying to referee the dialog here...not fan the conflagration)

You're right. He said "real world field testing." I interpreted that to mean that he's never seen one break in the field. If he's hooked up quantitative testing equipment and tested it in the field under controlled conditions, than, well, I'd be surprised. "Real world" usually means the antithesis of this.

BTW, the first time I quoted him I did quote the word "testing." The second time I quoted him, I did inadvertently quote him incorrectly. The guy's profile says he's a college student, so I assume he does not have much experience in technical writing. I'm used to reading scientific literature, where a phrase like "real world field testing" would be never be used. Maybe my fault for interpreting "real world field testing" to mean little more than "I've never seen one break in the real world." On the other hand, if you want your "tests" to be taken seriously, you should learn how to be precise in your descriptions of them.

But it's all practically a moot point anyway, because his claims are about friction in a wrap being significant, which no one is contesting. The claim that is being contested is whether the friction in the overlap of a the bar tacked section of a runner is a major contributor to the strength of the bar tack.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 12, 2008, 11:40 PM)


Partner slacklinejoe


Feb 13, 2008, 1:01 AM
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"jt512 wrote:
The guy's profile says he's a college student, so I assume he does not have much experience in technical writing. I'm used to reading scientific literature, where a phrase like "real world field testing" would be never be used.

Comments like these belong in a different forum. It's semi-personal stuff, not related to the question.

Not that it matters - Graduate actually. Masters in Communication/Administrative Studies 2005, undergrad degrees in business / computer information systems 2003. My brother in law is wrapping up his PHD program as an mechanical enginneer and one of my employees is a engineering student at CU. I like to leave self stimulating academia where I left it.


(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 13, 2008, 1:13 AM)


jt512


Feb 13, 2008, 1:34 AM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
"jt512 wrote:
The guy's profile says he's a college student, so I assume he does not have much experience in technical writing. I'm used to reading scientific literature, where a phrase like "real world field testing" would be never be used.

Comments like these belong in a different forum. It's semi-personal stuff, not related to the question.

Not that it matters - Graduate actually. Masters in Communication/Administrative Studies 2005, undergrad degrees in business / computer information systems 2003. My brother in law is wrapping up his PHD program as an mechanical enginneer and one of my employees is a engineering student at CU. I like to leave self stimulating academia where I left it.

Yeah, I know. Every comment except yours belongs in a different forum. You keep harping on about how this forum should be held to a higher standard, yet you've yet to present any of this supposedly relevant-to-the-question "real world field testing" data of yours. Why don't you post it, along with a description of the study design and the data collection and analysis protocol, and then we'll critically review it, like real scientists do. OK?

Jay


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Feb 13, 2008, 4:03 AM
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Jay, I've withstood a lot of personal attacks on this forum for my mere existance at what I do. I don't have enough invested in this particular debate to make it worth it. Thus, I am drawing the line and saying no - you've dished out too much disrespect, been too discourtious and your desire to argue has blinded your better judgement. I know very well what will probably be said at my expense following this but I am going to unsubscribe myself from this thread and tell you to shove it.

I also want to let you and the RC admins know I have received emails from other industry professionals who have decided not to post up, basically saying you, or people's posts like yours, are the reason it isn't worth it to them to post potentially valuable information. Goodnight.


(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 13, 2008, 4:18 AM)


jt512


Feb 13, 2008, 4:23 AM
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slacklinejoe wrote:
Jay, I've withstood a lot of personal attacks on this forum for my mere existance at what I do. I don't have enough invested in this particular debate to make it worth it. Thus, I am drawing the line and saying no - you've dished out too much disrespect, been too discourtious and your desire to argue has blinded your better judgement. I know very well what will probably be said at my expense following this but I am going to unsubscribe myself from this thread and tell you to shove it.

I also want to let you and the RC admins know I have received emails from other industry professionals who have decided not to post up, basically saying you, or people's posts like yours, are the reason it isn't worth it to them to post potentially valuable information. Goodnight.

Honestly, I don't think I've been disrespectful at all in this thread. You and your supposed industry professionals who have supposedly decided not to post their supposed data need to get a thicker skin.

There is a difference between being critical of claims and being disrespectful of the individual making the claim. When you make claims whose relevance to the question is unclear, and claim, without explanation, or data, that they are relevant, you should expect that your claims will be criticized.

Jay


crackers


Feb 13, 2008, 6:19 PM
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Jay, I disagree with you.

This is supposed to be a highly moderated technical discussion.

If russ or joe are willing to share the results of their proprietary testing programs or experience with everybody, maybe that should happen. After all, they're paying for their testing and for their insurance.

I don't see your comments as adding anything to a discussion of how bar tacked slings failed above the webbing's mean breaking strength.

If you want to start a methodology thread, go for it.

If you want to buy Joe's dataset, maybe he'll supply you a copy...


kai_da_klimba


Feb 13, 2008, 6:39 PM
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Just for the record:

I, too, feel that Jay has been disrespectful in this thread without supplying useful information himself.

I totally understand how other "industry professionals", who don't have time to constantly justify themselves against attacks, would decide not to post any more.

I've seen the signal to noise ratio on rc.com go down a lot over the time I've been visiting, and it's an unfortunate development in my eyes.


jt512


Feb 13, 2008, 6:40 PM
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Re: [crackers] Re: [In reply to]
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crackers wrote:
Jay, I disagree with you.

This is supposed to be a highly moderated technical discussion

Fine with me. Then maybe someone should fucking moderate it.

In reply to:
I don't see your comments as adding anything to a discussion of how bar tacked slings failed above the webbing's mean breaking strength.

I think it is completely obvious why my comments are relevant, but If you don't see it, I'll be happy (well, not really) to explain it to you, step by step:

1. The original question was, "do bar tacks fail."

2. Someone responded, "no, they're stronger than the webbing itself."

3. Someone responded, "I don't see how that's possible."

4. Someone responded, "It's possible if there's enough friction between the overlapping sections of webbing in the bar tack.

5. I responded, "no, in practice, you can't generate that much friction by bar tacking. Therefore the friction in a bar-tacked runner is not an important component of the strength of the joint.

6. Slacklinejoe responded, but if you make a complete wrap of webbing, like in a belay loop, then there is significant friction.

7. Once I figured out what he was talking about, I responded, I agree, but it's not relevant to the bar tacks in slings, because there is no such wrap.

In case you still don't get it, we are discussing what physical mechanisms underlie the strength of the bar tack. If you do not understand why that is relevant to the original question, well, what can I say.

In reply to:
If you want to start a methodology thread, go for it.

That comment apparently implies that you do not think that the methodology by which data is collected is relevant to how the data are interpreted. If that is what you believe, again, there is not much I can say.

Jay


gunkiemike


Feb 13, 2008, 7:14 PM
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Re: [jt512] Re: [In reply to]
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Wow, more creative quoting here. Jay, YOU were the first to use the term "friction" in this thread. If it were about friction, I imagine we'd be hearing the manufacturers citing stitch tension and webbing surface finish rather than stitch count and thread tensile strength (see moof's post).

In re-reading this thread, I think knudenoggin summarized it well: you don't need to make the splice stronger than the webbing itself, just strong enough so it breaks elsewhere when it's tested, like at the test fixture pins.


edited for decorum-in-the-forum.


(This post was edited by gunkiemike on Feb 13, 2008, 8:12 PM)


ddt


Feb 13, 2008, 7:32 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Re: [In reply to]
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Let's stay focused on the debate and not make this personal people, even if you disagree with someone's style. Everyone has a right to debate their own points and challenge the others.

(I don't see any personal attacks or deliberate provokation in the thread so far, but I'd hate for it to devolve to that point.)

DDT


(This post was edited by ddt on Feb 13, 2008, 7:32 PM)


jt512


Feb 13, 2008, 9:04 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Re: [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
Wow, more creative quoting here. Jay, YOU were the first to use the term "friction" in this thread.

You're right. I was the first to use the word friction as a succinct way to express your awkward phrase "sewn so tightly together that they won't separate." If you don't want credit for realizing that you're describing friction, so be it.

In reply to:
If it were about friction, I imagine we'd be hearing the manufacturers citing stitch tension and webbing surface finish rather than stitch count and thread tensile strength (see moof's post).

Well, now you're agreeing with me, and disagreeing with your previous claim, since I have been saying all along that friction is probably unimportant, whereas you had implied (whether you realize or not) that friction is important.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 13, 2008, 9:06 PM)


gunkiemike


Feb 13, 2008, 9:15 PM
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jt512 wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
Wow, more creative quoting here. Jay, YOU were the first to use the term "friction" in this thread.

You're right. I was the first to use the word friction as a succinct way to express your awkward phrase "sewn so tightly together that they won't separate." If you don't want credit for realizing that you're describing friction, so be it.

In reply to:
If it were about friction, I imagine we'd be hearing the manufacturers citing stitch tension and webbing surface finish rather than stitch count and thread tensile strength (see moof's post).

Well, now you're agreeing with me, and disagreeing with your previous claim, since I have been saying all along that friction is probably unimportant, whereas you had implied (whether you realize or not) that friction is important.

Jay

Jeesis F'n Cripes...there's no end to your making up quotes, is there? I never said "tightly", let alone the rest of what you put there in quotation marks, so if that's where you INFERRED anything to do with friction, it's all in your head. Fercryinoutloud, I can nail a couple greased boards together with a few hundred nails and you'll never pull them apart lengthwise, but friction ain't got nothing to do with that either.

Anyway, I've said my peace - I'm gone. You can quote me as saying you were right all along if it'll make you happy.


stymingersfink


Feb 13, 2008, 9:48 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Re: [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
Fercryinoutloud, I can nail a couple greased boards together with a few hundred nails and you'll never pull them apart lengthwise, but friction ain't got nothing to do with that either.

Point, Set, Thread.


jt512


Feb 13, 2008, 11:23 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Re: [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
jt512 wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
Wow, more creative quoting here. Jay, YOU were the first to use the term "friction" in this thread.

You're right. I was the first to use the word friction as a succinct way to express your awkward phrase "sewn so tightly together that they won't separate." If you don't want credit for realizing that you're describing friction, so be it.

In reply to:
If it were about friction, I imagine we'd be hearing the manufacturers citing stitch tension and webbing surface finish rather than stitch count and thread tensile strength (see moof's post).

Well, now you're agreeing with me, and disagreeing with your previous claim, since I have been saying all along that friction is probably unimportant, whereas you had implied (whether you realize or not) that friction is important.

Jay

Jeesis F'n Cripes...there's no end to your making up quotes, is there? I never said "tightly", let alone the rest of what you put there in quotation marks, so if that's where you INFERRED anything to do with friction, it's all in your head.
.

Yes, actually, you did say "tightly":

gunkiemike wrote:
OK, so maybe my choice of the word "fuse" made you think of "one piece" of material, but that's silly. Webbing is a mass of thousands of interwoven filaments. Two webbings sewn so tightly together that they won't separate under the greatest stress is now 2n thousand filaments acting together. Do you really have a problem with that being much stronger?

So, yes, I indeed inferred friction from that, because that is precisely what you implied, whether you realize it or not.

In reply to:
Fercryinoutloud, I can nail a couple greased boards together with a few hundred nails and you'll never pull them apart lengthwise, but friction ain't got nothing to do with that either.

Right, and why won't they come apart? Because the nails are stronger than the wood (we presume). And the strength of the nails does not depend on how tightly the pieces of wood are nailed together. Hence (except for some torque on the nails), the strength of the joint does not depend in an important way on how "tightly" the boards are nailed together. Rather, as I have been arguing from the start, the strength of the join is limited by the lesser of the strength of the joining material and the material being joined.

Youhave completely contradicted your position at the start of this thread wherin you opined that the tightness of the joint was an important determinant of the strength of the joint, in favor of the position I took from the start of this thread. What is unfortunate is that you are completely oblivious to your turnaround.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 13, 2008, 11:46 PM)


jt512


Feb 13, 2008, 11:24 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Re: [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
Fercryinoutloud, I can nail a couple greased boards together with a few hundred nails and you'll never pull them apart lengthwise, but friction ain't got nothing to do with that either.

Point, Set, Thread.

Try actually following people's arguments before you decide who has "won" it.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 13, 2008, 11:42 PM)


knudenoggin


Feb 19, 2008, 4:39 PM
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In reply to:
Two webbings sewn so tightly together that they won't separate under the greatest stress is now 2n thousand filaments acting together. Do you really have a problem with that being much stronger?

Again, where I have trouble is seeing how the tension running through the
(single-strand) material's 1n thousand filaments is transferred into those
2nd set of filaments without some INefficiency--i.e., loss of strength.

Here is a snippet of testing to directly answer the OP with a resounding
"Yes!" and show that knots were stronger than (some) bar tacks:

In reply to:
[from Tom Moyer at www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/pull_tests_11_98.html ]
Test Methods

We used a vehicle winch on a Hummvee to apply forces. A second Hummvee was initially used as an anchor. However, with an end-to-end pull, and with all four wheels locked, we were able to drag both vehicles across the concrete floor with 5000 lbs force. (good number to know if you use vehicles as anchors.) We ended up anchoring one vehicle to a tank (yes - really) and the other to eyebolts mounted in the wall. A Sensotec load cell was used to measure forces. It is calibrated internally with a shunt resistor.

Results

11/18 Test #1:
Pull an old 9/16" tubular web sling to failure. This sling was found girth hitched around a tree on Mt. Olympus and had obvious burn marks where ropes had been pulled through it. The sling was loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Material failure at one of the burn marks at 4410 lbs.

11/18 Test #2:
Pull an old 1" tubular web sling to failure. This sling was found tied around a tree on Mt. Olympus. It had no obvious burn marks on it, but it has to be assumed that at least one rope had been pulled through it. The sling was cut off and retied with a water knot. It was loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Material failure in the middle of the sling (presumably at an unseen burn) at 4300 lbs.

11/18 Test #3:
Pull a new 1" tubular sewn web sling to failure. One of our members sewed the sling on his home machine with a random stitching pattern (for testing purposes only!) The sling was loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Failure of the stitching at 5260 lbs.

11/23 Test #3

Repeat of 11/18 Test #3
Result: Failure of the stitching at 5920 lbs.

11/18 Test #4
Pull a new 1" tubular sewn web sling to failure. The sling was sewn professionally with 5 bar tacks. The sling was loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Failure of the stitching at 4720 lbs.

11/23 Test #2
Repeat of 11/18 Test #4 prof.sewing
Result: Failure of the stitching at 4730 lbs.

11/18 Test #5
Pull a new 1" tubular web sling to failure. The sling was tied with a water knot and loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Material failure in the knot at 4980 lbs.

11/18 Test #6
Pull a new 1" tubular web sling to failure. The sling was tied with a [grapevine bend]and loaded with an end-to-end pull on the loop.

Result: Material failure at the bend over the shackle at 6210 lbs.

---------------------------
Discussion:
The relatively high breaking strength of the two old and burned slings surprised me. Nevertheless, don't expect to see me rapping off a single old sling any time soon. I was also surprised that the home sewing job outperformed the professional bar tacking - and that the bar tacked slings were so weak. I have always been told that sewn slings are stronger than tied ones.

The sling tied with a water knot failed at 4980 lbs. If the two sides are loaded equally, each side carries 2490 lbs of tension. The CMC Rope Rescue Manual claims a 36% strength reduction for a water knot in webbing. Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques also lists a 36% strength reduction, although in nylon rope. If these are correct, the webbing has a material strength of 3890 lbs - very close to the 4000 lb rating usually assumed for 1" webbing.

The sling tied with a [Grapevine Bend] was the strongest of all slings. It is notable that the sling did not fail at the knot.
Re "did not fail at the knot", we must understand that upon this great
tension the knot yielded significant material into its side of the sling,
and thus created an imbalance at the pins and in any case likely made
the unknotted side sustain somewhat greater load. Divided evenly, half
of 6210 is 3105 per side; maybe the actual split was, say, 3300 / 2900?
(tape strength approx. 3900?)

*kN*


frogman21


Feb 19, 2008, 7:27 PM
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Re: [knudenoggin] Re: [In reply to]
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I dont know if any one has looked into this but the tree service industry uses webbing slings, in speed line aplications and under severe loads. I have tested the limits in this line of work and I know that the stitch is the first thing to go if you are loading the sling on any of the loops as uposed to end to end.. Anyway just some thought that you may look at all of the aplications slings are now used for.Wink[


sixleggedinsect


Jun 16, 2009, 12:28 AM
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Re: [renneberg] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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I was archive-browsing and just found this thread. good material and a lot of potential. Can we bring it back?

renneberg wrote:
Bar tack climbing webbing with 138 thread... Not 69.
double fishermans is strongest. Box with X next...

renneberg- where does this come from?! i want to know!

slacklinejoe wrote:
It's actually pretty simple. Box tacks are technically stronger because they distort the natural weave of the webbing less and spread their load bearing nature over a larger area. The reason they aren't used in our applications is that to get enough stitches to maintain strength will require a large area of the sling for sewing as well as increase labor (and thus prices). It would also make the sewn joint 5 x larger, thus making it more bulky, stiff and unmanagable.

Industrial slings are sewn with cordage, not standard thread. This cordage when used in 1" or smaller webbing would distort the weave. It has a much higher tensile strength 30+ lbs so you need far fewer stitches. Together, that makes it practical on large items to use a box tack.

slacklinejoe-

where does the 5x number come from? is the 'distortion' of the weave something i could be taught to see by eye? how significant is it? (in terms of potential strength loss in the host material)

moof wrote:
At the first order, say just putting in a dozen stitches the literature says you get about 2-2.5X the threads tensile strength per stitch (due to loading in shear, and there being two strands of thread in cross section).

moof- where is this strength estimate from (the 'literature').?

crackers wrote:
My office is next to that of the world's most advanced parachute manufacturer, I'm going to wander over there and ask a few questions. But it's not a priority for me, and my wife is having surgery on Thursday, so I'll get around to it when I do. I do know a bit about sewing standards and I do manufacture critical application materials in webbing and in fabric.

If you really want to find out everything there is to know about sling construction, try researching the US Military's voluminous experimentation in ways to put webbing together for climbing slings and a plethora of other applications.

crackers- where can i find the us mil research? i dug a lot of old rocket and parachute manuals out of my library, but never found a single thing that directly addressed the strength of tacks and boxes and whatnot. can you get me started?

did you ever get to chat with the folks across the road?


moof


Jun 20, 2009, 3:51 AM
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Re: [sixleggedinsect] bar tack failure [In reply to]
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In reply to:
moof- where is this strength estimate from (the 'literature').?

I went back and found the reference, and I was wrong (and I edited my old post). On Rope (page 239) says 1.8x multiplier, so 100 stitches with 11 lb #69 thread would break at roughly ~1980 lbs if the stitching were the weak point (~3960 lbs if part of a loop).

http://www.amazon.com/...ellers/dp/1879961059


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