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Mike805


Mar 20, 2008, 6:17 PM
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Fatality database?
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I'm not trying to be morbid but I was wondering if there is a fatality database for climbing like there is for skydiving at the dropzone.com site. It's actually quite informative and helpful. I would like to know how most people die in this sport; whether it's from gear failure (what part of the gear?), human error, natural occurences, weather problems, etc...

edited for incorrect website.


(This post was edited by Mike805 on Mar 20, 2008, 6:21 PM)


irregularpanda


Mar 20, 2008, 6:27 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
I'm not trying to be morbid but I was wondering if there is a fatality database for climbing like there is for skydiving at the dropzone.com site. It's actually quite informative and helpful. I would like to know how most people die in this sport; whether it's from gear failure (what part of the gear?), human error, natural occurences, weather problems, etc...

edited for incorrect website.

The AAC publishes the ANAM (Accidents in North American Mountaineering)
It's not a database, but what it is is a representative yearly report on specific locations and the types of accidents that happen there. It also includes analysis., and it is quite helpful for that reason. For example, if you look up california in a given year it will say something like "too many rappelling incidents to report, too many belay mistakes to report" and then it will go on to describe the accidents that are representative of the area. It's a great book, I love it.

Hope that helps


majid_sabet


Mar 20, 2008, 6:43 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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More than 55 climbers were killed in alpine related activities in European Alps between Jan-Oct of 2007.

Mostly due to avalanche related incidents.

17 people were killed due to rappelling error in 2007

Gear related, I did not see any incident last years but, in between 2000-2006, I had one or two incidents related gear failure.

Since Jan of 2008, more than 7 climbers were killed in winter related climbing in UK and New Zealand.

I keep track of climbing related accidents and incident for my own personal use but, if I really wanted to track them all, I bet this list can be twice as much as what you see now.


Note; Reports published by ANAM is only partial and not all the local accidents gets reported to AAC.


Mike805


Mar 20, 2008, 7:16 PM
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Hmmm, thanks for the responses, it kind of helps. Maybe this forum can make an area for just discussing accidents, I know there is an area already for that but 95% of it is just injury prevention and discussion. I was thinking more like this http://www.dropzone.com/....cgi?forum=14;guest= where people are listing actual accidents that occur and how they may have been prevented. Learning from other people's mistakes and accidents is a great way to learn and hopefully prevent future accidents.

Once a month at my DZ we go over the previous month's accidents and discuss what went wrong and how it could be prevented. This has helped us all become aware of common mistakes and accidents that can be prevented.


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 7:25 PM
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I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT


irregularpanda


Mar 20, 2008, 7:28 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
Hmmm, thanks for the responses, it kind of helps. Maybe this forum can make an area for just discussing accidents, I know there is an area already for that but 95% of it is just injury prevention and discussion. I was thinking more like this http://www.dropzone.com/....cgi?forum=14;guest= where people are listing actual accidents that occur and how they may have been prevented. Learning from other people's mistakes and accidents is a great way to learn and hopefully prevent future accidents.

Once a month at my DZ we go over the previous month's accidents and discuss what went wrong and how it could be prevented. This has helped us all become aware of common mistakes and accidents that can be prevented.

Yeah, click on Majid's name, then look at everything he posts. It's not comprehensive, and the grammar is atrocious, but it'll be the most you can get off of this site. I love talking shit about majid, but he really does geek out on accidents, which is super-useful (sometimes).

I recomended the ANAM not because its comprehensive, but because its representative of certain places, the types of accidents they consistently have, and the things that could have been done to prevent the accident. The regional side of things is very interesting: canada and washington state pretty much always have tons of avalanche related incidents. Alaska too. Crags pretty much always have people who don't tie knots in their rappell ropes, or they have inexperienced belayers. Basically the ANAM provides a synopsis of the areas accidents, and then talks about the ones that are relevant for many climbers and their experience levels.

I mean, they aren't comprehensive for a reason: when there are 30 accidents at smith rock about the misuse of a grigri, or the lack of wearing helmets, you kind of get the point pretty quickly.


irregularpanda


Mar 20, 2008, 8:01 PM
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dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

It's funny cuz its true.

What about us stoners? We don't want to drink after someone dies, but we'll find some brahs and brah down with the brah down!


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 8:10 PM
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BRAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

(Stoner conversations are always one sided... the other is holding her breath!)

DMT


Mike805


Mar 20, 2008, 8:50 PM
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dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

Yeah, what was I thinking, safety education and discussion that has proven itself to lower accident rates while the # of participants increase by the thousands is a stupid idea. Learning from other people's mistakes is for pussies Crazy


martcharb


Mar 20, 2008, 8:51 PM
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http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/index.asp


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 9:04 PM
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Re: [Mike805] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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Mike805 wrote:
dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

Yeah, what was I thinking, safety education and discussion that has proven itself to lower accident rates while the # of participants increase by the thousands is a stupid idea. Learning from other people's mistakes is for pussies Crazy

Ah yes self-righteous sarcasm... you MUST be from dropzone hahahahahahaha!

Cheers dude (go ahead and start your Forum of the Dead!)
DMT


skiclimb


Mar 20, 2008, 10:56 PM
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dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

I have a feeling the above climber was actually making a serious reply he beleives. Wjile I'm sure the above attitude is becoming more common It is not ture with the previous generations in general

Professional oriented/most serious climbers do exactly what the orogonal poster implied. The people who mentored me, who I looked up to spent a lot of time analyzing accidents and how to avoid them in the future. Acidents in north american mountaineering is what you are looking for.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Mar 20, 2008, 11:01 PM)


hugepedro


Mar 20, 2008, 11:23 PM
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Re: [Mike805] Fatality database? [In reply to]
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I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.


Mike805


Mar 21, 2008, 12:59 AM
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In reply to:
Ah yes self-righteous sarcasm... you MUST be from dropzone hahahahahahaha!

Cheers dude (go ahead and start your Forum of the Dead!)
DMT

You are right, it was sarcastic but I don't see how it was self-righteous. You are the one sounding self-righteous and very pompous, speaking as if you speak for the entire rockclimbing community.

I have many hobbies besides just skydiving and rockclimbing and in every one of them there is an elitist asshole who thinks that the way things "are" must remain the same always. Don't get me wrong, I have been one of those assholes at one time or another but drop the ego and attitude for a second and just try to realize that traditions and safety do not always agree with eachother.

Thanks to those with serious reply's. I understand that it's a touchy subject and most of you elitist climbers would rather just talk shit about those who are actually trying to learn what not to do without having to figure it out themselves, but try to understand that some people do learn from other's mistakes and if it saves someone's life to have learned what not to do from someone elses unfortunes....we may not be as cool as those who don't want to learn from others, but at least we are not lemmings.

BTW, I have no account over at DZ.com, I just thought the fatality database and the incident reports were a great learning tool for those who can choke down their ego's to learn something from someone elses misfortune.

P.S. From my experience with other high risk sports...those of you that think you have nothing more to learn are the first to get hurt or killed.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 1:14 AM
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Mike805 wrote:
In reply to:
Ah yes self-righteous sarcasm... you MUST be from dropzone hahahahahahaha!

Cheers dude (go ahead and start your Forum of the Dead!)
DMT

You are right, it was sarcastic but I don't see how it was self-righteous. You are the one sounding self-righteous and very pompous, speaking as if you speak for the entire rockclimbing community.

I don't use smiley faces. I'm not speaking for the climbing 'community' as there isn't one. We're tribal, not communal.

Being tribal any one of us can speak for the tribe, that's the way it works. We used to have a Chief but we killed her and ate her liver. Thus we all gained strength.

There used to be a Basejump fatality list, with details of each person who augered in. I felt that list was at once poignant and offensive - poignant in the frequency of death, offensive in that the basejumping community seemed to take ownership of the details of those people.

There's nothing wrong with accident analysis, I concur. I'm ex-Air Force. Accident analysis is a huge deal there as I'm sure you know. I of course acknowledge the value of proper analysis.

All that said? I STILL don't think rc.com should have such a forum. I don't think this group should emulate dropzone in ANY fashion whatsoever.

Feel free to insert smiley faces at the appropriate places in my post.

Cheers dude!
DMT


majid_sabet


Mar 21, 2008, 2:18 AM
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hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.


Alpine07


Mar 21, 2008, 3:38 AM
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skiclimb wrote:
dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

I have a feeling the above climber was actually making a serious reply he beleives. Wjile I'm sure the above attitude is becoming more common It is not ture with the previous generations in general

Im pretty sure Dingus is from a previous generation.

And he is absolutely right, keep it at dropzone.


Mike805


Mar 21, 2008, 4:02 AM
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dingus wrote:
There's nothing wrong with accident analysis, I concur. I'm ex-Air Force. Accident analysis is a huge deal there as I'm sure you know. I of course acknowledge the value of proper analysis.

All that said? I STILL don't think rc.com should have such a forum. I don't think this group should emulate dropzone in ANY fashion whatsoever.

Okay, now we have a civilized discussion. The first paragraph is the point that I'm trying to make; there is value, and imo a huge value, to accident analysis. I also understand where you are coming from. In small sports such as this, hearing about deaths is really just talking about your dead buddy...which is depressing. Trust me, I know all too well what it's like to go over an accident that involved one or more of your close friends. I totally respect you not wanting to wave the dirty laundry around so to speak buuuut some people still may benefit from it and if it keeps someone else from making the same mistake......


...and I don't see why emulating dz.com is such a bad thing. I realize it's a different sport but the basic facts remain the same: high risk, life-dependent and complicated equipment, small community, self-reliant for education, etc. even looking at the # of users on each site is within 1000 people. There accident report system is HIGHLY moderated and it's double checked with real facts before posting. 2007 saw the lowest # of skydiving related accidents and deaths since 1962. You can say it was something else but I'm saying that accident analysis does play a role and even if it keeps one more person alive, isn't it worth it.


hugepedro


Mar 21, 2008, 4:29 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.

I thought that was your job. But ok, here's a tip, try to avoid stuff falling on your head.

Anything else you want to know?


uhoh


Mar 21, 2008, 4:45 AM
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hugepedro wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.

I thought that was your job. But ok, here's a tip, try to avoid stuff falling on your head.

Anything else you want to know?

How much would could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

Proactive riposte: I've some wood right here for you to chuck!


Alpine07


Mar 21, 2008, 3:02 PM
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uhoh wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I know everything I need to know about climbing accidents, modes of gear failure, etc., without a death database.

If you're having trouble finding such information you're not trying very hard.

Since you know a lot please share some of your knowledge and educate us.

I thought that was your job. But ok, here's a tip, try to avoid stuff falling on your head.

Anything else you want to know?

How much would could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

Proactive riposte: I've some wood right here for you to chuck!

I once knew a climber that could chuck a cord of wood in about 15 minutes.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 3:04 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
skiclimb wrote:
dingus wrote:
I think we climbers need to preserve our own culture and traditions. We don't debrief, generally speaking. We drink instead.

We don't deliberate our deaths the way skyboys do.... that's too organized. We don't got no stinking certifications, no patches, no tallys, no badges.

I think an organized death forum would SUCK.

Keep it at dropzone.

DMT

I have a feeling the above climber was actually making a serious reply he beleives. Wjile I'm sure the above attitude is becoming more common It is not ture with the previous generations in general

Im pretty sure Dingus is from a previous generation.

And he is absolutely right, keep it at dropzone.

Previous generation? I'm from another mother fuckin PLANET!

DMT


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 3:16 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
Okay, now we have a civilized discussion.

Oh stop it, you're not going to change me. I've been beat up by way uglier folk than you.

In reply to:
The first paragraph is the point that I'm trying to make; there is value, and imo a huge value, to accident analysis.

Yes but this is rc.com. Take a look at some of majid's 'accident' trolls and the subsequent analysis posts. There is actually less than zero value in such threads, imo, unless they are HEAVILY POLICED to remove the noobknowitall crap that doesn't just creep in, bu comes in by avalanche.

Someone has to monitor those threads continuously to keep any sort of value.

Now on a commerical site where the owners just *bought in* and started laying down dictates, of what impulse or motivitation would you have to GIVE THEM YOUR LABOR and your content, in this fahsion?

WHY would you do that? Why would anyone do that? For free?

In reply to:
I also understand where you are coming from.

No offence my friend but I don't think you do.

In reply to:
In small sports such as this, hearing about deaths is really just talking about your dead buddy...which is depressing. Trust me, I know all too well what it's like to go over an accident that involved one or more of your close friends. I totally respect you not wanting to wave the dirty laundry around so to speak buuuut some people still may benefit from it and if it keeps someone else from making the same mistake......

That's not it. If something happened to my buddy I'd damn well want to know what, if anything, he did tto precipitate it. Like I said, I understand accident analysis.

I just don't think this is the place for it. It isn't going to be policed sufficiently to keep the crap out. How could it???? Accident analysis involves visits to the scene, thoughtful consideration, SCIENCE even!

As others have pointed out repeatedly, there is a group in north America that has filled this role for some time. They have the disciplines in place to add value, not opinion (and mostly wrong opinion at that).

JT512 makes this point, about the value of the information here, over and over with all technical aspects of climbing. That folks have the tendency, (he and I included of course) to post up our *thoughts* about subjects we may not have direct experience with.

Now I trust jt512s educated guesses a helluva lot more than your average bear's, but I don't believe his solution - a highly moderated website where there is no tolerance for bullshit and deviating from the administrative line will get you censored or banned. Further, I personally don't want other people editing my posts, ever, for many of the same reasons already cited.

This is a recreational site. Its a place where climbers come to bullshit with other climbers. Making it into a *resource site*, making it ALL ABOUT BEING a resource site, is wrong imo.

If a commercial enterprise wants to create such a site then those funding it and running it should pony up WITH THEIR OWN VALUE-ADD and stop using the works of others as if they own it.

Cheers dude!
DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Mar 21, 2008, 3:17 PM)


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 3:43 PM
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The tribe has spoken.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 3:59 PM
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Hehe.

DMT


Mike805


Mar 21, 2008, 4:03 PM
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In reply to:
This is a recreational site. Its a place where climbers come to bullshit with other climbers. Making it into a *resource site*, making it ALL ABOUT BEING a resource site, is wrong imo.

But this IS ALREADY a resource site. I can check out routes, I can see gear reviews, I can buy used gear from the classified's, I can look up partners in my area, I can check out photo's and video's of fellow climbers, etc. Just because you use it as a place to bullshit, and with 10,000+ posts it looks like you bullshit alot, doesn't mean everyone does...I don't. The internet is one big resource so I don't see your point at all.

Thanks for your opinion.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 4:05 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
The internet is one big resource so I don't see your point at all.

Start your Forum of the Dead and do a few analysis threads. You will see what I mean soon enough.

G'day.

DMT


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 4:36 PM
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Although I think that Accidents in North American Mountaineering pretty much has the bases covered, I do think a comprehensive, online database would be educational and revealing. Just not on this site. Lets let the dead rest with some dignity. We sure did want to know exactly what happened to Hersey, Skinner, Lowe, Reardon and countless others over the years...
On a side note- I have a book titled Death in the Canyon which lists every single fatality ever recorded in the Grand Canyon. The stories and reports are divided into catagories like 'death from falling from the rim', 'falling in the river', 'plane crashes' and 'suicide'. It makes for great quick reads, but probably isn't that helpful for accident prevention. My favorite stories are the string of "copy-cat" suicides after the movie Thelma and Louise was released.


Partner angry


Mar 21, 2008, 5:07 PM
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Jesus Christ Mike!!, you are goddamn unlikeable.

Seriously, I want to hit you. You understand so little of the oral history of this sport it makes me sick. How long have you been climbing? 3 years?

People who've been around a while don't want the forum you asked for because we're afraid people like you will speak up.

We have the I&A forum, In Memory of, and we have the lab forum. It's all there already. Are you asking permission to compile it?

No-one cares if you make a morbid spreadsheet. We just don't want your opinion.


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 5:17 PM
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Database good, forum bad.


subantz


Mar 21, 2008, 5:18 PM
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billcoe_


Mar 21, 2008, 6:02 PM
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subantz wrote:
Why not keep records of deaths it could be helpful later. Say when a crag gets closed because climbing is dangerous. unless you show them otherwise we run the risk of possibly having places shut down. Because lawyers and others only see us when we are in the news.

Are you the anti-climber? Screw the lawyers, if you want them, they're all over every place else already - go take up knitting for christ sake, keep them out. I pays me money, I takes me chances.

I'm with the tribe on this one. NO.

This info is played out much better and throughly already in Accidents in North America, just go buy a copy.


Mike805


Mar 21, 2008, 6:11 PM
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angry wrote:
Jesus Christ Mike!!, you are goddamn unlikeable.

Seriously, I want to hit you. You understand so little of the oral history of this sport it makes me sick. How long have you been climbing? 3 years?

I've been climbing for 3-6 months so obviously I know less than little of the "oral" history of this sport but that's my whole point, I want to learn more about preventing an accident and feel like learning from other's mistakes in the past is an excellent way of doing that. I don't know where to look, so I asked....

...and I don't see what triggered the "internet tough guy syndrome" but if you really want to hit me, get ahold of me next time your around Santa Barbara, Ca and I'll be glad to meet you. I'll give you my address via PM if you want. I'm a much better fighter in person than over the internet.

...and my initial question was for a "database" not a "forum". Sorry for it getting way off base but I just want to learn from others, not myself. Thanks for the info on the book, I'll check it out. I'll now slowly back away from the elitist, traditionalist tribe and hope that I don't get attacked by a bunch of skinny granola heads at the crag this weekend.

Peace.


majid_sabet


Mar 21, 2008, 6:15 PM
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MikeMad


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Mar 21, 2008, 9:49 PM)


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 6:20 PM
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DING DING! In this corner we have angry, large cam weilding desert hardman. In the other corner we have Sta. Barbara Mike, the curious noob. Lets get ready to ruuuuuumble! Mike,you could just go to Joshua Tree this weekend and learn from other peoples mistakes, or you could challenge angry and become a statistic in an online death database.


dingus


Mar 21, 2008, 6:21 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
I'll now slowly back away from the elitist, traditionalist tribe and hope that I don't get attacked by a bunch of skinny granola heads at the crag this weekend.

Peace.

They will pummel you with hexes! Be afraid!

Welcome to the tribe by the way. Ya gets beat into this gang and ya gets beat out.

One famous climber death tale.... a guy back in the early 60s was trying to rap into the Lost Arrow Notch, lost control and fell to his death. His body wedged into the notch behind the spire.

This was in the infancy of big wall climbing in Yosemite. SAR didn't exist.

Out of deference to the body, the park service closed access to the Lost Arrow. They imposed a moratorium on doing the route for 1 year.

Roper and Chouinard were the first climbers to get back in the route. Roper is the author of the early Yosemite and High Sierra guide books and Chouindard founded Patagonia and Black Diamond. Elders of our tribe in other words.

So our elders repeated Salathe's great chimney climb up the Lost Arrow and arrived at the notch. The last lead to the notch was done, I forget who went first. Doesn't matter really.

They didn't know what to expect, what they would find, what with a year old dead body there. The leader arrived and then silence. The belayer calls up.... 'Well?'

Long silence and then,

"His goddamn jacket doesn't fit me!"

Such are our oral traditions. This story is best told over a warm fire with cold brews in hand.

Cheers mike
DMT


Partner angry


Mar 21, 2008, 6:33 PM
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Mike, if I wanted to hurt you, I'd ask you to follow me for a day. I'm not threatening you, merely pointing out that you need a good smack upside the head (with a brick).

Why should the rules of the game change? When I learned to climb, I learned what to do and what not to do from those who learned what to do and what not to do from those who learned what to do and what not to from those who learned what to do and what not to do dating all the way back to Edward Whymper.

Anything not directly learned from more experienced climbers I learned through trial and error, the exact same way all those before me learned.

At 6 months I knew what gravity was, that a fall from height would kill me, and that I needed to take steps to avoid that fall from height. I also knew that I had to count on myself because I'm the one on the line.

Over the years I've seen friends get hurt, beginners have bad experiences and quit, and really dumb shit that luckily didn't cause an accident. This is how it should be.

To unify our sport (and this is the broader spectrum of what you're talking about) is to kill our sport.

It makes my physically ill to think that in my lifetime people will be paid to establish safe routes, that climbing will become a pay per use (ala Downhill Skiing) activity, and the precautions we take are dictated consensus of accident research.

I respect that you don't want to die. Staying alive is possible without killing climbing.

At 6 months, I don't expect you to understand. Pitch your idea again in a decade.


Johnny_Fang


Mar 21, 2008, 6:49 PM
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we need an online database of climbers who never pay for the damn beer. we could examine how that correlates with drum playing.


jt512


Mar 21, 2008, 7:29 PM
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Mike805 wrote:
angry wrote:
Jesus Christ Mike!!, you are goddamn unlikeable.

Seriously, I want to hit you. You understand so little of the oral history of this sport it makes me sick. How long have you been climbing? 3 years?

I've been climbing for 3-6 months so obviously I know less than little of the "oral" history of this sport but that's my whole point, I want to learn more about preventing an accident ...

Then do the following:
  • Read everything you can on climbing, including
    • How to Rock Climb (John Long)
    • Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills
    • Climbing Anchors (Long/Gaines)
    • Self-Rescue (Fasulo)
    • Accidents in North American Mountaineering
    • Climbing: From Gym to Crag (Lewis/Cauthorn)
    • The chapter "Staying Alive" (John Dill) in Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs (Reid)
    • Subscribe to Climbing Magazine and Rock and Ice
    • Search the Injuries and Accidents forum of this website

  • Find a safe, experienced mentor
  • Take a basic multiday Introduction to Climbing seminar from a reputable climbing schhol
  • Invest in a few days of private instruction from a certified guide
  • Take your time learning. If you're interested in traditional climbing, start out on dead easy routes, and work your way up the grades gradually.

The skill sets needed to become a safe climber are both broader and deeper than those needed to become a safe skydiver. Analyzing a fatality database won't help you one iota toward mastering those skills.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 21, 2008, 7:35 PM)


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 7:36 PM
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WORD.


hugepedro


Mar 21, 2008, 8:16 PM
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The point I was trying to make very succinctly on the first page, but apparently failed, is this.

How many accidents where someone rapped off the ends of their ropes do I need to read about before I realize that I should make sure not to rap off the ends of my ropes? Answer: 1.

How many deaths caused by falling rock do I need to read about before I realize that I should be wary of situations where falling rock is possible? Answer: 1.

You get the drift.

Now you may be slow on the uptake and require reading about multiple deaths from the same cause before you start to pay attention to that cause, if so then I’d suggest you get out of this game while you still have your health. But I see no reason why we need a DB of 50 deaths all due to the same cause, other than to satisfy morbid curiosity.

All possible and knowable causes of death are already known and documented. If and when any new causes present themselves they as well are documented, and discussed ad nauseam on the internet. Thus my statement that if you don’t know this information then you aren’t trying very hard.

And this is the basis for my statement that I already know every thing I need to know about climbing accidents, this shit has already been analyzed, and documented, and the collective wisdom stored in the written climbing lore (witness the list Jay posted above as example).

After climbing only 3-6 months the reason you don’t know shit is because you’ve only been climbing 3-6 months. I didn’t know shit either with only 6 months under my belt – I learned. And that is what you have ahead of you – to learn. And if you follow Jay’s advice above, and you put in the time and effort to learn, you will find that you have learned everything this death database could have taught you, plus a whole lot more. You will discover that (as other people here who have been through the learning process are trying to tell you) a death database was completely unnecessary for your process of learning, and that it would be redundant and merely a fraction of what you need to learn anyway.

So STFU n00b!!!!111

Wink


drljefe


Mar 21, 2008, 8:35 PM
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I agree with what you said about a database being unnecessary for the noob's learning process...but there IS still 'morbid' curiosity, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. You're a mountaineer, do you read AINAM? If so, for what reason- is it 'morbid'? Just curious.


binrat


Mar 21, 2008, 9:25 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
If you do not listen to me, you will be BBQ in RC by the end of next week.
And thats worthy for a sig lineWink


irregularpanda


Mar 21, 2008, 9:28 PM
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dingus wrote:
Mike805 wrote:
The internet is one big resource so I don't see your point at all.

Start your Forum of the Dead and do a few analysis threads. You will see what I mean soon enough.

G'day.

DMT

Yes he will. Especially of the majid variety.......

Speaking of trolling experts on accident mis-analysis now I'm curious what the bones are in the liver.

Anybody know the answer to that, liver bones, anyone?
Come one, its a major organ, it must have bones, right?


majid_sabet


Mar 21, 2008, 9:30 PM
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binrat wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
If you do not listen to me, you will be BBQ in RC by the end of next week.
And thats worthy for a sig lineWink

in the history of RC, Mike is the only person who ever wanted to learn about climbing by opening the coffin first.

This is like doing rock climbing in reverse


majid_sabet


Mar 21, 2008, 9:36 PM
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irregularpanda wrote:
dingus wrote:
Mike805 wrote:
The internet is one big resource so I don't see your point at all.

Start your Forum of the Dead and do a few analysis threads. You will see what I mean soon enough.

G'day.



DMT

Yes he will. Especially of the majid variety.......

Speaking of trolling experts on accident mis-analysis now I'm curious what the bones are in the liver.

Anybody know the answer to that, liver bones, anyone?
Come one, its a major organ, it must have bones, right?

That is when the femur exits from a liver after a 500 feet fall. Seen one of these before?


irregularpanda


Mar 21, 2008, 9:39 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
That is when the femur exits from a liver after a 500 feet fall. Seen one of these before?

All talk, no pictures. remember majid, sharing is caring.


hugepedro


Mar 21, 2008, 11:05 PM
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drljefe wrote:
I agree with what you said about a database being unnecessary for the noob's learning process...but there IS still 'morbid' curiosity, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. You're a mountaineer, do you read AINAM? If so, for what reason- is it 'morbid'? Just curious.

Been a quite few years since I read one, and the reason I did read them was to learn (which was my point, information is readily available without a database). And ANAM isn't a database of every accident, they distill it down to a set that they think is useful - information that can then get incorporated into the climbing lore of dos and don'ts. Like a few years ago when suddenly there was a large number of accidents involving belayer's dropping their climbers, they didn't give many actual reports of those accidents, but they did say, hey there are lots of these occuring, possibly due to large numbers of climbers moving from the gym to the rock, so be careful if you're making that transition.

Personally I think that sort of REAL accident analysis, by experts, that is distilled into useful information and trends identified, etc., is what is needed (and already exists), rather than the sort of database being suggested here.

And like others I think RC.com would be a totally inappropriate place for such a database. Go have a look at cascadeclimbers.com, every time there is a big rescue/accident in the Cascades that gets media attention the thread about it turns into a major circus, with media people, non-climbers, and just plain idiots coming out of the woodwork and posting stuff about which they know absolutely nothing. It's disgusting.


EvilMonkey


Mar 21, 2008, 11:12 PM
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In reply to:
I would like to know how most people die in this sport; whether it's from gear failure (what part of the gear?), human error, natural occurences, weather problems, etc...
most of them die on impact, just like your skydivers.


subantz


Sep 4, 2010, 4:13 AM
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Bump suckers


jt512


Sep 4, 2010, 11:44 AM
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EvilMonkey wrote:
In reply to:
I would like to know how most people die in this sport; whether it's from gear failure (what part of the gear?), human error, natural occurences, weather problems, etc...
most of them die on impact...

Most of us die from old age.

Jay


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