I am considering picking up a new rope on sale but noticed it was made over four years ago. Normally I wouldn't care if I was using it for sport. However considering its for trad and it already has an impact force of just under 9 kN, I ask, how much does four years in a closet increase the impact force of the rope? Is it relatively miniscule or noticeable?

I am considering picking up a new rope on sale but noticed it was made over four years ago. Normally I wouldn't care if I was using it for sport. However considering its for trad and it already has an impact force of just under 9 kN, I ask, how much does four years in a closet increase the impact force of the rope? Is it relatively miniscule or noticeable?

how big was the closet?

Ya your mom let me use hers before but after tearing through it faster then I tear through her, I decided to get my own.

You sure you don't mean, what is the mass of the closet?

Please read completely through this for clarification.

Well, like so much else in climbing, It Depends.
Is it a metric or non-metric closet?

I am considering picking up a new rope on sale but noticed it was made over four years ago. Normally I wouldn't care if I was using it for sport. However considering its for trad and it already has an impact force of just under 9 kN, I ask, how much does four years in a closet increase the impact force of the rope? Is it relatively miniscule or noticeable?

I am considering picking up a new rope on sale but noticed it was made over four years ago. Normally I wouldn't care if I was using it for sport. However considering its for trad and it already has an impact force of just under 9 kN, I ask, how much does four years in a closet increase the impact force of the rope? Is it relatively miniscule or noticeable?

Ropes tend to shrink over time without usage. Make sure you don't rap off the end! You might want to consult this thread for suggestions on how to measure it.

GO

correct except ,when you rapping, your weight actually is adding 5% to length of the rope( static elongation) so with 50m you could easily rap a 52 +_ meter

correct except ,when you rapping, your weight actually is adding 5% to length of the rope( static elongation) so with 50m you could easily rap a 52 +_ meter

I'm going to have to get a more accurate barometer.

Get one that's calibrated in inches of mercury, so Aric can throw another hissy fit.

Jay

I am considering picking up a new rope on sale but noticed it was made over four years ago. Normally I wouldn't care if I was using it for sport. However considering its for trad and it already has an impact force of just under 9 kN, I ask, how much does four years in a closet increase the impact force of the rope? Is it relatively miniscule or noticeable?

This:

Coming from the guy who so recently said this while arguing relative experience with Dingus?

I'm surprised no one has asked the most important, obvious question yet: what time of day do you plan to fall on the rope? We all know that impact force increases exponentially the later in the day the fall is taken.

One wonders at this point, was the OP born a moron or were special classes required?

Common, you don't need to be a smart a$$ here. This is a legit question, and if you are climbing a lot you are going thru a lot of ropes.

A few years back I did get a rope on sale at Gear Express. First time I tried using it became obvious something was not right about it, no give, very stiff. I examined the packaging and found out it was over 4 years old.

I called GE guys, they were very nice, apologized and overnighted me a replacement rope.

Now hold on. You are intimating that the rope lost elasticity because it was four years old, and I find that very difficult to believe. Dynamic ropes don't appreciably lose elasticity just sitting around unused. My redpoint rope is four years old, and is still in good condition, despite the fact that it occasionally gets climbed on.

Jay

G. Bressan


Commission for Materials and Techniques, Italian Alpine Club


Introduction
Research on rope wear is a very difficult task; the efforts devoted to it by the UIAA Associations up to now are by far inadequate. In addition, it was not possible to rely on a consistent support by yarn and rope manufacturers. For these main reasons not much has been accomplished, though the subject has been studied for more than thirty years now. The Materials and Techniques Commission (CMT) of the Italian Alpine Club has programmed a wide range of experiments, both in laboratory and in real mountaineering and climbing. The first results are reported here. First of all let’s make it clear that it’s improper to talk about “rope ageing”; it’s only wear (or more rarely environmental effects) that causes rope degradation: in fact, contrary to all expectations, the performance of a properly stored rope does not decay with time. This has been proved by testing dynamic performances - measured at the Dodero - of several ropes kept in-house for more than 15 years without using them. Tests results (impact force, number falls etc.) were equal to the values quoted by the manufacturer[9]; this behaviour is confirmed by all rope manufacturers.

Now hold on. You are intimating that the rope lost elasticity because it was four years old, and I find that very difficult to believe. Dynamic ropes don't appreciably lose elasticity just sitting around unused. My redpoint rope is four years old, and is still in good condition, despite the fact that it occasionally gets climbed on.

Jay

I brought the issue up because I recall reading manufacturer issued documentation that stated ropes should be retired after ten years regardless of use as they lose dynamic performance with time regardless of use. I will try to figure out which manufacturer I saw print that.

I brought the issue up because I recall reading manufacturer issued documentation that stated ropes should be retired after ten years regardless of use as they lose dynamic performance with time regardless of use. I will try to figure out which manufacturer I saw print that. I am thinking it was Beal but I will check.

That's just planned obsolescence and lawyer-speak.

I recall reading manufacturer issued documentation that stated ropes should be retired after ten years regardless of use as they lose dynamic performance with time regardless of use. I will try to figure out which manufacturer I saw print that. I am thinking it was Beal but I will check.

Ropes tend to shrink over time without usage

hmm,
I've always thought USNAvy was a beginner climber. Just some of his questions seem so silly.

What I said was, “How many people do you know that have gone from taking their first belay test to sending .12’s".

Then what bearing does Beal's recommendation for their ropes have on ropes made by another manufacturer, when the other manufacturers make no such recommendation about their ropes?

That you do, Jay. That you do. And you're right; I really do suck at flaming. Fortunately Sayar plays slow pitch.

And speaking of flaming, I finally have a chance to get back to that other thread, so take a look in 10 minutes or so.

Now hold on. You are intimating that the rope lost elasticity because it was four years old, and I find that very difficult to believe. Dynamic ropes don't appreciably lose elasticity just sitting around unused. My redpoint rope is four years old, and is still in good condition, despite the fact that it occasionally gets climbed on.

Jay

No, you are quite right, 4 years is not a big deal for a rope. What I was trying to say is that some of these 4 years old ropes on sale are not worth buying.
In my case that info was not available but in this case there will be no way out.