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SMC Camlocks.

metollius rope hook

Hey,

There are numerous threads for the "must-have" specialized gear for a given crag, but for fun/discussion: What is the most WORTHLESS piece of gear that you have found to be the case at a crag?

I'll start with a few off the top of my head:

Rumney: Cordelette
Gunks: DMM aluminium offset nuts, hexes

I found myself finding very few nut placements on Chapel Pond Slab in the Dacks. I remember being happy that my fiancee decided to bring extra small cams. I would be tempted to not bring nuts at all, but that would make for some expensive bailing if need be.

I didn't mean all around worthless junk, I guess I meant protection that is useless in some crags, that could really be useful elsewhere.

dev

Anything metal, true heros jam knots in cracks.

But in reality, as far as pro goes, I would say most worthless is the valley giant, get with the big bros.

[image]http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/VGhistory.html[/image]

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Before his devolves into another "I love/hate tricame" thread, let me get it over with and say shut up, you're wrong.

I didn't mean all around worthless junk, I guess I meant protection that is useless in some crags, that could really be useful elsewhere.

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there.

Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there.

then why use it?

Why place gear?

feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it.

I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.

SMC Camlocks.

Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?)

Why would you let a question of style keep you from climbing a good route?

Good times.

feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it.

I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.

she was kinda sexy though.

She was a he Greg.

Anything metal, true heros jam knots in cracks.

She was a he Greg.

Why not respect the first ascensionists/bolters who designed the route to use a stick?

metollius rope hook

um, there were three of them, and the one with the big bros hanging off her harness was a she.

I am just yanking your chain.

I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.

Yes. Why do you have them?

I had a few until recently. I haven't seen them since I moved but they are probably around here somewhere.

Why would you let a question of style keep you from climbing a good route?

He has quite a long list of reasons why he won't try hard...ever. among others are too hot, too cold, too scared, too hard, too steep, too crimpy, too slopey,..........

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

This makes zero sense. It's like saying you wouldn't want to do the Nose because it has a couple of pendulums.

He has quite a long list of reasons why he won't try hard...ever. among others are too hot, too cold, too scared, too hard, too steep, too crimpy, too slopey,..........

...I still won't stick clip because I think its stupid I'm a stubborn jackass.

yeah, yeah Jake you climb hard. we know how hard you climb. you climb FUCKING HARD. but knowing how hard of a climber you are, how big your sack is, and how little I am compared to you, I still won't stick clip because I think its stupid.

I didn't say CLIMB hard.. i said TRY hard. I don't give a flying fuck if someone climbs 5.8 or 5.13+ but give an honest effort.

you will be missing 3 star routes at the Red if you don't have a stick clip.

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

FYI - you've climbed with me ONCE, and that was a shitty, cold, rainy weekend this past spring when NO ONE wanted to be there. As a group of four we did, what, five climbs the entire weekend? Yeah, that's a good representation of me pushing my limits.

I hear there are thousands of climbs in the Red. I'm sure I'll find more than enough 3-star climbs to enjoy myself.

I've done Flyin' Hawaiin at Rumney, and I don't remember ever owning a stick clip. It's not impossible. I agree with anti stick clip guy on this one. He values his ethic that he needs to be able to confidently climb the entire route without the aid of an artificial long arm. It's sort of arbitrary, because the bolts are more or less arbitrarily placed, so the danger is arbitrary.

I would use a stick clip if I felt I needed it, but I would admire someone much more who climbed routes that they were comfortable with on their own terms.

The whole concept of a stick clip, and sport climbing in general is kind of absurd. You are manufacturing a route with whatever degree of danger you want to have in it. If it's okay to stick clip the first bolt, why not stick clip the second, or third? Why not leave the rope hanging from all but the chains? What's the difference?

It's a joke, a farce...something that is there for pure entertainment. Not something to REALLY push the limits of what you yourself find as acceptable risk, and how close you can push yourself to the edge while still being in control.

I've done Flyin' Hawaiin at Rumney, and I don't remember ever owning a stick clip. It's not impossible. I agree with anti stick clip guy on this one. He values his ethic that he needs to be able to confidently climb the entire route without the aid of an artificial long arm. It's sort of arbitrary, because the bolts are more or less arbitrarily placed, so the danger is arbitrary.

I would use a stick clip if I felt I needed it, but I would admire someone much more who climbed routes that they were comfortable with on their own terms.

The whole concept of a stick clip, and sport climbing in general is kind of absurd. You are manufacturing a route with whatever degree of danger you want to have in it. If it's okay to stick clip the first bolt, why not stick clip the second, or third? Why not leave the rope hanging from all but the chains? What's the difference?

Aside from bolting on the lead, why would someone intentionally make a sport route dangerous to lead? That's what i don't get about sport climbing. When you're placing gear you are either good enough to place the gear or you're not. With a sport climb you can easily make the route safer by just adding a lower bolt, and spacing them closer together. It's a joke, a farce...something that is there for pure entertainment. Not something to REALLY push the limits of what you yourself find as acceptable risk, and how close you can push yourself to the edge while still being in control.

RR

I've done Flyin' Hawaiin at Rumney, and I don't remember ever owning a stick clip. It's not impossible. I agree with anti stick clip guy on this one. He values his ethic...

I've done Flyin' Hawaiin at Rumney, and I don't remember ever owning a stick clip. It's not impossible. I agree with anti stick clip guy on this one. He values his ethic that he needs to be able to confidently climb the entire route without the aid of an artificial long arm. It's sort of arbitrary, because the bolts are more or less arbitrarily placed, so the danger is arbitrary.

I would use a stick clip if I felt I needed it, but I would admire someone much more who climbed routes that they were comfortable with on their own terms.

The whole concept of a stick clip, and sport climbing in general is kind of absurd. You are manufacturing a route with whatever degree of danger you want to have in it. If it's okay to stick clip the first bolt, why not stick clip the second, or third? Why not leave the rope hanging from all but the chains? What's the difference?

Aside from bolting on the lead, why would someone intentionally make a sport route dangerous to lead? That's what i don't get about sport climbing. When you're placing gear you are either good enough to place the gear or you're not. With a sport climb you can easily make the route safer by just adding a lower bolt, and spacing them closer together. It's a joke, a farce...something that is there for pure entertainment. Not something to REALLY push the limits of what you yourself find as acceptable risk, and how close you can push yourself to the edge while still being in control.

RR

I've done Flyin' Hawaiin at Rumney, and I don't remember ever owning a stick clip. It's not impossible. I agree with anti stick clip guy on this one. He values his ethic that he needs to be able to confidently climb the entire route without the aid of an artificial long arm. It's sort of arbitrary, because the bolts are more or less arbitrarily placed, so the danger is arbitrary.

I would use a stick clip if I felt I needed it, but I would admire someone much more who climbed routes that they were comfortable with on their own terms.

The whole concept of a stick clip, and sport climbing in general is kind of absurd. You are manufacturing a route with whatever degree of danger you want to have in it. If it's okay to stick clip the first bolt, why not stick clip the second, or third? Why not leave the rope hanging from all but the chains? What's the difference?

Aside from bolting on the lead, why would someone intentionally make a sport route dangerous to lead? That's what i don't get about sport climbing. When you're placing gear you are either good enough to place the gear or you're not. With a sport climb you can easily make the route safer by just adding a lower bolt, and spacing them closer together. It's a joke, a farce...something that is there for pure entertainment. Not something to REALLY push the limits of what you yourself find as acceptable risk, and how close you can push yourself to the edge while still being in control.

RR

Before his devolves into another "I love/hate tricame" thread, let me get it over with and say shut up, you're wrong.

quoted just because it is well said, and to remind people once again that the question was, in fact, posted in the trad forum.

Exactly Dev, which is why I don't. And for the record i didn't say that just because a piece of rock doesn't take gear well that it is absurd to climb it. I said the fundamental idea of sport climbing to me, is absurd. You just took it personally that's all jake. Besides, every sport route could be led on trad gear, just with varying amounts of risk. When you bolt it you're just altering it to fit the level of safety you are comfortable with.

Back to the argument......the smallest tricam is pretty damned worthless, as is the biggest tricam.

RR

tricams r awwwsum ... i place them on every moderate climb in squamish/rockies ...

they work great as a second set of nuts/cams and r much lighter to boot

for alpine you can just bring em instead of cams since they also work in lightly iced cracks

useless??? ... everything is useless till nothing else will fit ... lol

Oh, by far the grappling hook. So many cons! Those bloody things keep snagging shit all the time, claw at the back of my knees. They really do cause some panic when I have all the sizes slung on one side of my harness; I'm always reaching down and adjusting them. They don't always catch the first time, gouging holes in my forehead when I don't grab for them properly on their way back down. You can't put them in your carry-on luggage. Also, the red size for some reason doesn't sit tight when oriented for a sideways pull... walks all over the fucking place! Damn grappling hooks suck!

Most worthless piece of gear? The Rock Exotica BiWire Carabiner:

I agree with anti stick clip guy on this one. He values his ethic that he needs to be able to confidently climb the entire route without the aid of an artificial long arm.

...

I would use a stick clip if I felt I needed it, but I would admire someone much more who climbed routes that they were comfortable with on their own terms.

Fucking n00b. You need a grappling hook with retractable teeth. That way it does not hit you in the leg, head, or carry-on baggage.

Most useful piece of gear ever, imo.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P1000652.jpg[/IMG]

Sport climbing should not be bolted dangerously, ever. Which conflicts with your statement about stick clipping because having the first bolt clipped keeps you off the deck if the landing sucks. having a bolt lower would not solve the problem

Then WHY did you put : stick clip

gumbie

because it's worthless

idiot.

Most worthless piece of gear? The Rock Exotica BiWire Carabiner:

[img]http://www.gear.com/wp-content/images/posts/full_225_3.jpg[/img]


Honorable mention: The Black Diamond ATC–n00b:

[img]http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/products/6/2/0/620052_atcsport_rb.jpg[/img]

Jay

Most worthless piece of gear? The Rock Exotica BiWire Carabiner:

[img]http://www.gear.com/wp-content/images/posts/full_225_3.jpg[/img]


Honorable mention: The Black Diamond ATC–n00b:

[img]http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/products/6/2/0/620052_atcsport_rb.jpg[/img]

Jay

Not sure why everyone is one starring this post, I think he's suggested the winners in this thread so far.

The whole concept of a stick clip, and sport climbing in general is kind of absurd. You are manufacturing a route with whatever degree of danger you want to have in it. If it's okay to stick clip the first bolt, why not stick clip the second, or third? Why not leave the rope hanging from all but the chains? What's the difference?

RR

If you don't believe me, go do Flying Hawaiian at Rumney without stick clipping and report back to me.

I can't recall finding any gear that was useless, but I did see someone climbing a steep route at the Gunks, carry a #5 and #6 camalot. Theres not too many overhanging offwidths at the Gunks.

My Steel Omega Pacific locking carabiner. I bought it when I was first learning to set up top-ropes.....

What a waste of moolah. But look at the bright side; next time I need 62kN of holding power, I know where to find it!

[image]http://media.rei.com/media/801624.jpg[/image]

jeez, are you guys freakin' ninjas or something?

I'm going to go with "or something," by which I mean "moron." Why in the world would you be carrying that thing? I try to maintain a broad perspective of things I don't quite personally appreciate, but this one is pushing the envelope. So you're flinging that thing up the rock and you can't figure out why it comes back to hit you? And for that you blame the hook? And, if it does snag, you'd trust a piece that just randomly snagged a rock or a root? Moron! Moron! MOR-RON!!

I'm quoting this one before it gets away.

Hey,
I found myself finding very few nut placements on Chapel Pond Slab in the Dacks. I remember being happy that my fiancee decided to bring extra small cams. I would be tempted to not bring nuts at all, but that would make for some expensive bailing if need be.

I bought a couple of these for a Scotland trip a couple of winters ago.
Used them as lockers at belays- they worked great.
Most lockers in shitty(Scottish) conditions will eventually just freeze up; then you're kind of fucked.
Gave one to a Scottish guide even; he could easily the benefits.
Mario

I love the "I established a new route" when he is telling someone about a another climb to try. Notice he didn't just say "there is route just down the road that would be better for you". He had to add the "I established it" part. I love it!! We all want our recognition, right?

I think you're reading too much into it, Mr. 'My shit smells so much like roses that I'm too good for bolts, lookahme! Lookahme!.'

C4C, can you pm me deets? I'd love to hop on it next weekend...is it north or south>

That could be the post of the year

Could be... not. The original post was a troll. That's OK -- I had a good rant and felt better afterwards.

On topic, I'll nominate the Metolius PAS as the most worthless piece of gear I personally own. For $25 you get 1/6 the functionality of $4 worth of 7mm accessory cord. On the bright side, at least the PAS gets in your way all the time and it is not at all versatile. Such a deal.

+1. But I would go farther: The PAS is actually worse than a $4 piece of nylon cord, due to its use of high-tech, low-stretch materials.

Its not intrinsically useless - but about the only piece of gear I have that I don't use is my daisy chain. I bought it when I got back into climbing 2 years ago after a long break, and saw a lot of people using them as tethers on sport climbs and multipitch. Then I remembered / worked out / learned about 3 better and safer ways to do each of the things I had been using it for, and retired it.

The turn around away from personal anchor systems such as PAS and daisies and cordalettes is both heartening and amazing.

My work seems done here.

DMT

even a name such as yours shall be celebrated long after your untimely death due to autoerotic asphyxiation (one of the diverse uses for a Purcel prusik, or so I hear).

Aww. Young love.

When I first saw the title to this thread I told myself, "Bryan, don't read that thread. Just don't fuckin do it."

And then I read it anyway. *facepalm*

Then you have no one to blame but yourself.