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Rmsyll2


Feb 8, 2011, 3:50 AM
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Top-belay accident
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A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.
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rocknice2


Feb 8, 2011, 4:04 AM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.


Something else went wrong because the 'direct alignment' you mention or belaying off the harness without a redirect will hold a climber.
There is something they did tell you or don't know.
Someone f***ed up and my guess is the belayer.

If the ATC is rigged so the second's rope enters the top and the brake exits out the bottom, a lock off in the upwards direction would have no effect other than the friction of the rope rapping once around a biner.


(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Feb 8, 2011, 4:11 AM)


dugl33


Feb 8, 2011, 5:22 AM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Based on your description pretty tough to guess what happened. Is it possible the belayer tried to hold the rope with the guide hand rather than the brake hand? Did he let the rope start sliding through his brake hand and lose control of it? Who knows.

Somethings amiss. It's not like climbers have never lowered a struggling second without dropping them.

And I hate to say it, but I'm going to say it anyway. What's up with military climbers, marines in particular? If I had a nickel for every time I saw a semper fi do or die marine doing stupid crap climbing I'd have enough to buy a carne asada 4-way burrito at Juanita's Taqueria.


healyje


Feb 8, 2011, 6:12 AM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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A redirect through the anchor is completely optional. The issue in this incident was A was not competent to the task of lowering D as a belayer and should not have been.


jt512


Feb 8, 2011, 6:22 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.


Something else went wrong because the 'direct alignment' you mention or belaying off the harness without a redirect will hold a climber.
There is something they did tell you or don't know.
Someone f***ed up and my guess is the belayer.

This is correct, but we don't have to "guess" that the belayer fucked up, although it's not clear how he fucked up. The only thing that I can think of is that he had both hands on the second's side of the rope, and no hand on the brake side.

In reply to:
If the ATC is rigged so the second's rope enters the top and the brake exits out the bottom, a lock off in the upwards direction would have no effect other than the friction of the rope rapping once around a biner.

This is not correct. If you were to thread the rope through the ATC in the manner you describe, the only correct braking direction would still be upward, because the ATC would rotate 180 degrees, so that the rope to the second would come out the bottom, and the brake strand would come out of the top.

Jay


majid_sabet


Feb 8, 2011, 6:25 AM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.

belay off harness with ATC when you have a solid anchor behind you is stupid. I said this a 100 times and OPs post was another example of a disaster waiting to happen.

other options
see image




(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 8, 2011, 6:38 AM)


jt512


Feb 8, 2011, 6:27 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.

belay off harness with ATC when you have a solid anchor behind you is stupid. I said this a 100 times and here is why

What makes you think his anchor was solid?

Jay


jt512


Feb 8, 2011, 6:30 AM
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Re: [healyje] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
A redirect through the anchor is completely optional. The issue in this incident was A was not competent to the task of lowering D as a belayer and should not have been.

Lowering a climber directly off your harness is not an option I'd choose, unless the climber was very light or the distance to lower very small. Although it's possible to do, it isn't very pleasant.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 8, 2011, 6:39 AM)


notapplicable


Feb 8, 2011, 6:37 AM
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Belaying directly off the harness as shown in the picture is a perfectly fine and viable option and I do so regularly. You do have to be careful not to lower a heavier climber too fast though, because it could be hard to regain control with a lower friction device like the standard ATC pictured.

That said, redirecting is often the more advantageous option unless the anchor is suspect or the belayer decides to extend themselves away from the anchor for some reason.


majid_sabet


Feb 8, 2011, 6:41 AM
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jt512 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.

belay off harness with ATC when you have a solid anchor behind you is stupid. I said this a 100 times and here is why

What makes you think his anchor was solid?

Jay

Three pieces in on trad and not building a solid anchor?

if thats the case, these guys should not even climb.


patto


Feb 8, 2011, 6:43 AM
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Re: [jt512] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Belaying off the harness with no redirect is standard practice where I climb. It is perfectly functional though not entirely plesant to lower a climber from this position.

Most of the time though I just use a Reverso off the anchor.


(This post was edited by patto on Feb 8, 2011, 6:45 AM)


jt512


Feb 8, 2011, 6:43 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jt512 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.

belay off harness with ATC when you have a solid anchor behind you is stupid. I said this a 100 times and here is why

What makes you think his anchor was solid?

Jay

Three pieces in on trad and not building a solid anchor?

if thats the case, these guys should not even climb.

Well, if he can't even lower the guy, he shouldn't even climb; and if he can't even lower the guy, I'm sure not going to automatically assume he knows how to build an anchor.

Jay


majid_sabet


Feb 8, 2011, 6:47 AM
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jt512 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
jt512 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
A fellow who wanted to practice Trad did so today on a short route. He got to the ledge, and his partner did not want to second, being too cold. The first guy, A., wanted to try making belay anchors for multi-pitch and did so, using three pieces in the face behind. He ran a blue sling from those to his belay loop, letting him stand at the rim. He attached an ATC-type device to his belay loop, and called to his partner, D., to come up. He did, and as he came over the rim, he looked at the belay arrangement and complained about it. Nevertheless, after some discussion D. let A. lower him. As soon as he started down, D. fell 30-40' to land on his back on a large tree root.

Incredibly, D. was not showing any signs of injury, not even a bump on his head. He helped pack up, including bending over to bag his rope; but we did not let him lift anything. His back-pack was carried by A., who had suffered serious rope burns across all surfaces of both hands around the rope, which is probably how D. was able to survive such a fall. That, and his being a career Marine with a back muscled like a boxer.

D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground. My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half. D. said that the device will not hold in that direct alignment, even if "locked off". On D.'s climb up, A. was good about never taking his brake hand off the rope, though his guide hand was off a lot as if resting it.

My assessment finds both at fault, D. for not making sure his belayer knew how to do that under the conditions, and letting him proceed even after seeing there was a problem. I blame the cold and his being tired for his being lax. I don't know what common instructions for top-belay say on this, to know how A. did not know how wrong his method was, as seems obvious with D.'s explanation. Another top-belay that I've seen used a carbiner auto-block, which was not part of this arrangement.

It seemed that A. was deeply affected by nearly killing his buddy, and I've wondered how others involved in accidents go on afterwards. His trying to hold the rope was a help and honorable, but will have caused him some injury that may leave permanent scars; and it will take hospital tests to be sure that D. is as okay as he seemed at the time.

LL
.

belay off harness with ATC when you have a solid anchor behind you is stupid. I said this a 100 times and here is why

What makes you think his anchor was solid?

Jay

Three pieces in on trad and not building a solid anchor?

if thats the case, these guys should not even climb.

Well, if he can't even lower the guy, he shouldn't even climb; and if he can't even lower the guy, I'm sure not going to automatically assume he knows how to build an anchor.

Jay

ohh man, this was 3/4 of a fatality report that did not happen.


jt512


Feb 8, 2011, 6:47 AM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
Belaying off the harness with no redirect is standard practice where I climb. It is perfectly functional though not entirely plesant to lower a climber from this position.

So it's "standard practice" where you climb for everybody to torture themselves by hanging 170 pounds of dead weight directly off their waist for no good reason? I'm going to remember this the next time you bring up your local standard practices.

Jay


patto


Feb 8, 2011, 7:13 AM
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jt512 wrote:
So it's "standard practice" where you climb for everybody to torture themselves by hanging 170 pounds of dead weight directly off their waist for no good reason? I'm going to remember this the next time you bring up your local standard practices.

Who said anything about putting the weight on your waist? Set up the anchor properly and have the anchor take the load.

The reason? Well if the anchor is low and back from the edge then a re-direct is vastly inferior.


vegastradguy


Feb 8, 2011, 7:21 AM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
So it's "standard practice" where you climb for everybody to torture themselves by hanging 170 pounds of dead weight directly off their waist for no good reason? I'm going to remember this the next time you bring up your local standard practices.

Who said anything about putting the weight on your waist? Set up the anchor properly and have the anchor take the load.

The reason? Well if the anchor is low and back from the edge then a re-direct is vastly inferior.

um, you did?

if you set yourself up so the anchor takes the load, then you might as well hang the device on the anchor. your body doesnt belong in the equation.


jt512


Feb 8, 2011, 7:22 AM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
So it's "standard practice" where you climb for everybody to torture themselves by hanging 170 pounds of dead weight directly off their waist for no good reason? I'm going to remember this the next time you bring up your local standard practices.

Who said anything about putting the weight on your waist?

The OP, for starters; look at the picture. And you. You said what is standard practice is "belaying off the harness without a redirect." Now you're saying have the anchor take the load. But it can't, by definition, if you're belaying off the harness without a redirect.

Jay


patto


Feb 8, 2011, 7:49 AM
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jt512 wrote:
You said what is standard practice is "belaying off the harness without a redirect." Now you're saying have the anchor take the load. But it can't, by definition, if you're belaying off the harness without a redirect.

You certainly can.
-Belay biner through harness with ATC. Hence belaying off harness, no redirect.
-Anchor attached to belay biner without slack. Hence anchor takes load.


(The picture show a similar setup but the person in the picture is using 2 separate biners. This works but is less elegant since it relies on the belay loop to transfer the load.)


healyje


Feb 8, 2011, 8:23 AM
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I don't belay off anchors ever and dislike redirecting most of the time. When I hear that's the norm then my guess is people are doing a lot of dogging and that's the real reason for belaying off the anchor.

But this incident has nothing to do with either belaying off the anchor or redirecting - this is strictly a case of someone belaying in a circumstance and situation where they shouldn't have been belaying. They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.


Lbrombach


Feb 8, 2011, 1:57 PM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
You said what is standard practice is "belaying off the harness without a redirect." Now you're saying have the anchor take the load. But it can't, by definition, if you're belaying off the harness without a redirect.

You certainly can.
-Belay biner through harness with ATC. Hence belaying off harness, no redirect.
-Anchor attached to belay biner without slack. Hence anchor takes load.


(The picture show a similar setup but the person in the picture is using 2 separate biners. This works but is less elegant since it relies on the belay loop to transfer the load.)

I get what your saying, and that's my preference...perhaps because I spend so much time belaying from the bottom that I'm just more comfortable with the device attached to the same place, and if I should slip there's no chance of me getting disoriented or whatever and losing track of where the belay is. Can't beat a reverso from the top, IMO, but I suppose if I had to use and ATC I'd look for a redirect but still belay from my loop.


shockabuku


Feb 8, 2011, 2:17 PM
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healyje wrote:
I don't belay off anchors ever and dislike redirecting most of the time. When I hear that's the norm then my guess is people are doing a lot of dogging and that's the real reason for belaying off the anchor.

But this incident has nothing to do with either belaying off the anchor or redirecting - this is strictly a case of someone belaying in a circumstance and situation where they shouldn't have been belaying. They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.

I'd guess this is the case also. Probably A. had never belayed from above and thought the ATC would continue to brake when he held the brake strand below the device as opposed to above it.


shockabuku


Feb 8, 2011, 2:23 PM
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dugl33 wrote:
What's up with military climbers, marines in particular?

Climbing isn't a critical skill for most military organizations. Often service members will learn how to rappel as part of team building or confidence building training and, being typical people, they extend one idea into the next, not having any idea of the danger they are incurring. Another contributing factor is that they're generally aggressive and adventurous enough to try it.


Rmsyll2


Feb 8, 2011, 2:42 PM
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A question has been raised about the ability of the belayer to make a proper anchor, as indicating general competence: see Att'd.

The rigging used relied on the belay loop with two carabiners not directly connected. I do not know the usual kN for those, but it is usually relied on. I don't see that as an issue here.

Majid's drawing seems to show two ways to make a redirect belay; but some posters do not use that, doing it as in the first photo. I think now that an ATC is good only for rappelling, however many do use it for belay. A Reverso now seems much better for belay. Both are always a two-strand pulley, so a redirect makes a four-strand pulley?

I suspect now that the accident was directly belayer error, not coordinating his hands correctly to lower under device control, however it was rigged; but that will not be known. I still don't know what should be done for a safe, reliable top-belay. Any method works perfectly -- until a climber falls.

LL
.
Attachments: ThreePoint1 sm.jpg (93.0 KB)


shoo


Feb 8, 2011, 2:51 PM
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For the sake of discussion of this particular incident, let's leave out the military vs civilian climber discussion. That belongs in a different thread altogether.



It should be obvious that either a redirect off the anchor or a guide block device direct from the anchor are vastly superior to a direct from harness belay in the vast majority of scenarios. However, there is still no excuse to drop someone while lowering. When belaying directly from your harness from above the climber, the brake direction is up, not down. I suspect that this was not well understood by the belayer, which was the primary cause of the accident.


shoo


Feb 8, 2011, 2:54 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
I think now that an ATC is good only for rappelling, however many do use it for belay. A Reverso now seems much better for belay. Both are always a two-strand pulley, so a redirect makes a four-strand pulley?

Wrong lesson.

Rmsyll2 wrote:
I suspect now that the accident was directly belayer error, not coordinating his hands correctly to lower under device control, however it was rigged; but that will not be known. I still don't know what should be done for a safe, reliable top-belay. Any method works perfectly -- until a climber falls.

LL
.

Right lesson.


dugl33


Feb 8, 2011, 3:11 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
A question has been raised about the ability of the belayer to make a proper anchor, as indicating general competence: see Att'd.

The rigging used relied on the belay loop with two carabiners not directly connected. I do not know the usual kN for those, but it is usually relied on. I don't see that as an issue here.

Majid's drawing seems to show two ways to make a redirect belay; but some posters do not use that, doing it as in the first photo. I think now that an ATC is good only for rappelling, however many do use it for belay. A Reverso now seems much better for belay. Both are always a two-strand pulley, so a redirect makes a four-strand pulley?

I suspect now that the accident was directly belayer error, not coordinating his hands correctly to lower under device control, however it was rigged; but that will not be known. I still don't know what should be done for a safe, reliable top-belay. Any method works perfectly -- until a climber falls.

LL
.



Hard to say without seeing more detail. Two pieces look to rely on a somewhat detached block, and one stopper is in a pretty parallel looking crack. A three piece anchor is only solid if the components are solid.


wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 3:23 PM
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Was the belayer perhaps only trained in the use of the BUS belay method?


dugl33


Feb 8, 2011, 3:27 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground.* My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half.

You are confused with regards to the mechanical advantage of "pulleys". Belay devices add friction, that's it. They reduce the force needed by the braking hand in comparison to the pull on the load side. A top redirect may add a little more friction but does not provide a mechanical advantage as far as braking. It does put the belayer in a more comfortable orientation for braking and tends to lift him up toward the redirect, rather than down.

Rmsyll2 wrote:
Majid's drawing seems to show two ways to make a redirect belay; but some posters do not use that, doing it as in the first photo. I think now that an ATC is good only for rappelling, however many do use it for belay. A Reverso now seems much better for belay. Both are always a two-strand pulley, so a redirect makes a four-strand pulley?

I think you are still confused. What is shown in Majids drawing on the left is a way to use a standard atc connected directly to the anchor for a lower. The purpose of the redirect biner here is to orient the pull of the brake strand in the standard lock off orientation, otherwise the strands tend toward parallel and the belayer would have to pull up on the brake strand (weak, awkward, poor control) rather than downward (strong, comfortable, in control).

*edit to add context


(This post was edited by dugl33 on Feb 8, 2011, 3:46 PM)


Partner j_ung


Feb 8, 2011, 3:31 PM
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healyje wrote:
They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.

Agree. Of course, it's a guess, but I'm inclined to chalk this up almost entirely to the belayer being caught off guard by the weighted re-orientation of every part of the system away from what he's used to. The climber's poor choice to climb on is certainly also to blame.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 8, 2011, 3:32 PM)


wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 3:39 PM
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In a frictionless world redirecting would double the force on the anchor.

Belaying off the harness with a redirect through the anchor nearly doubles the force on the anchor except for the friction of the redirect biner.

Belaying off the anchor with a redirect back through the anchor doubles the force minus the friction of the redirect biner and minus the friction of the belay device. Or another way of looking at this is you will have the weight of the climber plus the force of the brake hand on the anchor.


shoo


Feb 8, 2011, 3:45 PM
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wwalt822 wrote:
In a frictionless world redirecting would double the force on the anchor.

Belaying off the harness with a redirect through the anchor nearly doubles the force on the anchor except for the friction of the redirect biner.

Belaying off the anchor with a redirect back through the anchor doubles the force minus the friction of the redirect biner and minus the friction of the belay device. Or another way of looking at this is you will have the weight of the climber plus the force of the brake hand on the anchor.

OMG! It could DOUBLE an extremely small amount of force relative to anchor strength in a scenario so unrealistic as to by totally irrelevant all while making belaying massively more difficult?!?!

I MUST WARN THE INTERNETS!!!!


vegastradguy


Feb 8, 2011, 3:51 PM
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dugl33 wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
A question has been raised about the ability of the belayer to make a proper anchor, as indicating general competence: see Att'd.

The rigging used relied on the belay loop with two carabiners not directly connected. I do not know the usual kN for those, but it is usually relied on. I don't see that as an issue here.

Majid's drawing seems to show two ways to make a redirect belay; but some posters do not use that, doing it as in the first photo. I think now that an ATC is good only for rappelling, however many do use it for belay. A Reverso now seems much better for belay. Both are always a two-strand pulley, so a redirect makes a four-strand pulley?

I suspect now that the accident was directly belayer error, not coordinating his hands correctly to lower under device control, however it was rigged; but that will not be known. I still don't know what should be done for a safe, reliable top-belay. Any method works perfectly -- until a climber falls.

LL
.

[Image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5526[/image]

Hard to say without seeing more detail. Two pieces look to rely on a somewhat detached block, and one stopper is in a pretty parallel looking crack. A three piece anchor is only solid if the components are solid.

If i rolled up to a ledge and saw that, i'd be doing some damn close inspection before I trusted it...


dugl33


Feb 8, 2011, 3:55 PM
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wwalt822 wrote:
In a frictionless world redirecting would double the force on the anchor.

Belaying off the harness with a redirect through the anchor nearly doubles the force on the anchor except for the friction of the redirect biner.

Belaying off the anchor with a redirect back through the anchor doubles the force minus the friction of the redirect biner and minus the friction of the belay device. Or another way of looking at this is you will have the weight of the climber plus the force of the brake hand on the anchor.

I understand this but this is not the nuance of what was being implied by the OP. The OP referred to a non-existent mechanical advantage to braking, not a genuine mechanical disadvantage on the anchor. Reread the post...

Rmsyll2 wrote:
D. explained that the problem with the rigging was the direct connection of the rope to A., instead of the rope being put through an master-point at the anchor and then through the device, similar to how it is from the ground.* My understanding of his point is that making a two-strand pulley divides the force on the device in half.

The bolded part is incorrect and suggests a 2:1 mechanical advantage with regards to braking where none exists, at least in your frictionless world.

See the difference?


wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 4:02 PM
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shoo wrote:
wwalt822 wrote:
In a frictionless world redirecting would double the force on the anchor.

Belaying off the harness with a redirect through the anchor nearly doubles the force on the anchor except for the friction of the redirect biner.

Belaying off the anchor with a redirect back through the anchor doubles the force minus the friction of the redirect biner and minus the friction of the belay device. Or another way of looking at this is you will have the weight of the climber plus the force of the brake hand on the anchor.

OMG! It could DOUBLE an extremely small amount of force relative to anchor strength in a scenario so unrealistic as to by totally irrelevant all while making belaying massively more difficult?!?!

I MUST WARN THE INTERNETS!!!!

Did I say there was a problem with doing it any of these ways? And the only unrealistic scenario is the frictionless one.

Someone was confused about how changing your belay setup changes the force on the anchor so I explained as best I could.

I still want to know if the belayer was a BUS method user...


notapplicable


Feb 8, 2011, 4:02 PM
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shoo wrote:
wwalt822 wrote:
In a frictionless world redirecting would double the force on the anchor.

Belaying off the harness with a redirect through the anchor nearly doubles the force on the anchor except for the friction of the redirect biner.

Belaying off the anchor with a redirect back through the anchor doubles the force minus the friction of the redirect biner and minus the friction of the belay device. Or another way of looking at this is you will have the weight of the climber plus the force of the brake hand on the anchor.

OMG! It could DOUBLE an extremely small amount of force relative to anchor strength in a scenario so unrealistic as to by totally irrelevant all while making belaying massively more difficult?!?!

I MUST WARN THE INTERNETS!!!!

SlySly


vegastradguy


Feb 8, 2011, 4:14 PM
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wwalt822 wrote:
shoo wrote:
wwalt822 wrote:
In a frictionless world redirecting would double the force on the anchor.

Belaying off the harness with a redirect through the anchor nearly doubles the force on the anchor except for the friction of the redirect biner.

Belaying off the anchor with a redirect back through the anchor doubles the force minus the friction of the redirect biner and minus the friction of the belay device. Or another way of looking at this is you will have the weight of the climber plus the force of the brake hand on the anchor.

OMG! It could DOUBLE an extremely small amount of force relative to anchor strength in a scenario so unrealistic as to by totally irrelevant all while making belaying massively more difficult?!?!

I MUST WARN THE INTERNETS!!!!

Did I say there was a problem with doing it any of these ways? And the only unrealistic scenario is the frictionless one.

Someone was confused about how changing your belay setup changes the force on the anchor so I explained as best I could.

I still want to know if the belayer was a BUS method user...

I would bet he was a pinch and slider, but thats conjecture at best given that he was lowering his partner when the accident occurred.


justroberto


Feb 8, 2011, 4:17 PM
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j_ung wrote:
healyje wrote:
They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.

Agree. Of course, it's a guess, but I'm inclined to chalk this up almost entirely to the belayer being caught off guard by the weighted re-orientation of every part of the system away from what he's used to. The climber's poor choice to climb on is certainly also to blame.
^This. Your belayer doesn't seem to be trying to hide anything, but when people end up with ropeburns on their hands, it screams that they let go of the brake and grabbed the belayer climber end of the rope. When relatively inexperienced belayers get surprised by something unexpected, sometimes this is their first instinct.

Is that Pilot? Because friends don't let friends climb there. I also lay some of the blame on their friends.Wink


(This post was edited by justroberto on Feb 8, 2011, 4:43 PM)


dugl33


Feb 8, 2011, 4:24 PM
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justroberto wrote:
j_ung wrote:
healyje wrote:
They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.

Agree. Of course, it's a guess, but I'm inclined to chalk this up almost entirely to the belayer being caught off guard by the weighted re-orientation of every part of the system away from what he's used to. The climber's poor choice to climb on is certainly also to blame.
^This. Your belayer doesn't seem to be trying to hide anything, but when people end up with ropeburns on their hands, it screams that they let go of the brake and grabbed the belayer end of the rope. When relatively inexperienced belayers get surprised by something unexpected, sometimes this is their first instinct.

Is that Pilot? Because friends don't let friends climb there. I also lay some of the blame on their friends.Wink

Uh, you mean climber side? If so, agreed! Cool


Rmsyll2


Feb 8, 2011, 4:24 PM
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"I do not know the usual kN for [belay loops]"

My BD, I just found out, is 15 kN. Carabiners in-line are much more than that, half that cross or open.


potreroed


Feb 8, 2011, 4:25 PM
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If the belayer had been using a gri gri and a re-direct this accident would prolly not have happened.


shoo


Feb 8, 2011, 4:31 PM
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potreroed wrote:
If the belayer had been using a gri gri and a re-direct this accident would prolly not have happened.

Fixed.


justroberto


Feb 8, 2011, 4:42 PM
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dugl33 wrote:
justroberto wrote:
j_ung wrote:
healyje wrote:
They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.

Agree. Of course, it's a guess, but I'm inclined to chalk this up almost entirely to the belayer being caught off guard by the weighted re-orientation of every part of the system away from what he's used to. The climber's poor choice to climb on is certainly also to blame.
^This. Your belayer doesn't seem to be trying to hide anything, but when people end up with ropeburns on their hands, it screams that they let go of the brake and grabbed the belayer end of the rope. When relatively inexperienced belayers get surprised by something unexpected, sometimes this is their first instinct.

Is that Pilot? Because friends don't let friends climb there. I also lay some of the blame on their friends.Wink

Uh, you mean climber side? If so, agreed! Cool
Doh! That's what I meant.


shockabuku


Feb 8, 2011, 4:43 PM
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The gear ratings and placements (apparently) aren't the contributing factors to the accident discussed here. They may or may not have been good placements, but nothing appears to have broken or pulled out.

The error is (apparently) entirely attributable to the belayer doing something wrong. It's most likely that error was either (1) grabbing the climber's side of the rope or (2) not understanding how to orient the brake strand relative to the direction of pull.


Rmsyll2


Feb 8, 2011, 4:47 PM
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Re: [dugl33] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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"I think you are still confused."

Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.

.


wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 4:51 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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I'm going to guess he was BUS user. I agree with the others in that he was probably used to pulling the rope downward to brake. The BUS method instills the muscle memory of driving the rope downwards between your legs to brake which is useless when belaying off the harness from above

I'm a palm up pinch and slide user (ZOMG my climber's gonna die!!!11exclamationone1121240!) and my reaction is always to lock my hand next to my hip. This will apply braking power whether belaying from below or belaying off my harness from above.

EDIT: BUS method explained
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a0FLqwPL8


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Feb 8, 2011, 4:52 PM)


shoo


Feb 8, 2011, 4:56 PM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
"I think you are still confused."

Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.

.

I am now slightly less convinced that this post is genuine, and now suspect elaborate troll.

And if it not a troll, to the OP: you are severely misunderstanding what has been said here. Please do yourself a favor. Log off the internet and go hire a guide or convince and experienced and well qualified climber to teach you these things in person.


wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 4:59 PM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
"I think you are still confused."

Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.

.

You seem to be very confused. A belay device is only a friction creator. Unless you were to make a complicated and useless z pulley setup of some kind on the brake strand only you do not get any mechanical advantage from a redirect. A redirect is exactly what it sounds like. It redirects the force coming out of the belay device through the anchor or some other piece of protection. The advantage of this is that the belayer can sit back in his harness and belay in pretty much the same way as if he were at the bottom of the cliff belaying a top roper.

I suggest you read up on block and tackle physics.

I don't know anyone that would belay or climb with belayer that was not anchored in unless it was very mellow terrain. I'm guessing when they say they dont use the anchor they mean that they don't belay directly off the anchor.


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Feb 8, 2011, 5:03 PM)


shockabuku


Feb 8, 2011, 5:00 PM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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What do you mean by "the friction method"?


wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 5:00 PM
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Re: [shoo] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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shoo wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
"I think you are still confused."

Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.

.

I am now slightly less convinced that this post is genuine, and now suspect elaborate troll.

And if it not a troll, to the OP: you are severely misunderstanding what has been said here. Please do yourself a favor. Log off the internet and go hire a guide or convince and experienced and well qualified climber to teach you these things in person.

Come on Rmsyll, admit you dropped your climber...


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Feb 8, 2011, 5:11 PM)


dugl33


Feb 8, 2011, 5:19 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
"I think you are still confused."

Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.

.

No! No it doesn't. Here, this may help. Note the difference between the first diagram and the second. The first diagram shows a change in direction with no mechanical advantage with regards to braking, the second one would create a 2:1 mechanical advantage with regards to raising. Consider your frame of reference.... consider loads on each component. Put 200 lbs on the left side of the pulley in the first diagram, you will have 200 lbs of load on the right side. The fact that the load on the pulley point of connection is now holding 400 lbs doesn't change the fact that you are still holding 200 lbs.

http://www.southeastclimbing.com/faq/faq_pulley.htm


patto


Feb 8, 2011, 8:18 PM
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shoo wrote:
It should be obvious that either a redirect off the anchor or a guide block device direct from the anchor are vastly superior to a direct from harness belay in the vast majority of scenarios.

A redirect off the anchor is not vastly superior to a direct harness belay. All this assumes that the anchor is directly above the belayer and the climb. This is often not the case.


notapplicable


Feb 8, 2011, 8:33 PM
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wwalt822 wrote:
I'm going to guess he was BUS user. I agree with the others in that he was probably used to pulling the rope downward to brake. The BUS method instills the muscle memory of driving the rope downwards between your legs to brake which is useless when belaying off the harness from above

I'm a palm up pinch and slide user (ZOMG my climber's gonna die!!!11exclamationone1121240!) and my reaction is always to lock my hand next to my hip. This will apply braking power whether belaying from below or belaying off my harness from above.

EDIT: BUS method explained
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a0FLqwPL8

If that was how I was taught, I'd probably be P&Ser too!


notapplicable


Feb 8, 2011, 8:37 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

You are doing it wrong.


healyje


Feb 8, 2011, 8:53 PM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Anchor setup - irrelevant

Off the harness or redirect - irrelevant

Hand method with the belay device - irrelevant

Type of ATC - irrelevant

ATC or Grigri - irrelevant

The only thing that is relevant is that the belayer wasn't up to the task at hand with the device he was using. He had inadequate knowledge and experience for belaying in that situation and circumstance they found themselves in and both were unprepared for the decisions they needed to make at that moment. The both climbers needed more time seconding a competent leaders and more time belaying before venturing into multipitch on their own.

Given an adequate anchor, all the rest of the banter in this thread is personal preference with little to no bearing the incident.


patto


Feb 8, 2011, 9:40 PM
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Agreed healyj.


(Though most of us I presume know that. And debate is just periphery.)


moose_droppings


Feb 8, 2011, 10:42 PM
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patto wrote:
Agreed healyj.


(Though most of us I presume know that. And debate is just periphery.)

+2
And debate is inevitable.


Rmsyll2


Feb 9, 2011, 2:50 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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"You are doing it wrong."

That is you attacking me, as too many here generally find amusement and gratification in doing, and offering zero helpful information.

One reply said flatly that he never used an anchor, implying to me that he just stands or sits above a climber. That makes no sense to me in terms of safety for the circumstance, making the total of responses more confusing to me, as stated.

I do believe that a cam device would have been the saving grace in this case and in general, that is why they were developed and how they became so popular; and D. did belay A. with one at the start. Yes, the handle or cam on a GriGri or Cinch can be held in the open position and drop a climber, but that is not a trained response so far as I know or suspect.

No one has mentioned my suggestion of a carabiner auto-block: none of you use that or recommend that for top-belay?

The climber D. thought that an ATC used directly could not hold a fall: you are all agreed that is not true, it had to be only belayer error in using it?

It was D.'s idea that a redirect would reduce brake force needed, and my notion of pulley advantage is a crude attempt to figure out why he would think so. Do you all (except the fellow talking about doubling the force on the anchor) agree there is only friction involved in any arrangement of any belay system, so the system is only personal preferrence with no best way to do a top-belay?

.


dugl33


Feb 9, 2011, 3:35 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
"You are doing it wrong."

That is you attacking me, as too many here generally find amusement and gratification in doing, and offering zero helpful information.

One reply said flatly that he never used an anchor, implying to me that he just stands or sits above a climber. That makes no sense to me in terms of safety for the circumstance, making the total of responses more confusing to me, as stated.

I do believe that a cam device would have been the saving grace in this case and in general, that is why they were developed and how they became so popular; and D. did belay A. with one at the start. Yes, the handle or cam on a GriGri or Cinch can be held in the open position and drop a climber, but that is not a trained response so far as I know or suspect.

No one has mentioned my suggestion of a carabiner auto-block: none of you use that or recommend that for top-belay?

The climber D. thought that an ATC used directly could not hold a fall: you are all agreed that is not true, it had to be only belayer error in using it?

It was D.'s idea that a redirect would reduce brake force needed, and my notion of pulley advantage is a crude attempt to figure out why he would think so. Do you all (except the fellow talking about doubling the force on the anchor) agree there is only friction involved in any arrangement of any belay system, so the system is only personal preferrence with no best way to do a top-belay?

.

People are actually trying to provide helpful information, but you seem reluctant to hear it.

With regards to the bolded section, if you are referring to healyje's post http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2458390#2458390 then this is also a misunderstanding. What he means is he doesn't belay directly off the anchor, nor use a redirect off the anchor, but rather belays off his harness. He doesn't mean he isn't connected to a bombproof anchor.

Without an anchor, yes, you will get pulled off. Early in my climbing days I made the mistake once of not tying in short enough, and got yanked right off my perch. I held the rope locked off, the anchor held me, but that was really uncomfortable.


patto


Feb 9, 2011, 3:58 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
"You are doing it wrong."

That is you attacking me, as too many here generally find amusement and gratification in doing, and offering zero helpful information.

You will find alot of good information in between the various debate and hyperbole about 'this way' is ALWAYS best and NEVER do 'this' as it is shit.

The fact is that pretty much everything described in this thread is safe and sensible if done competently.

There was nothing inherantly wrong in the fundamental system involved in the belay of this accident. But somewhere along the line the belayer lost control of the belay.

Two obvious questions spring to mind:
1. Was there slack in the anchor so when the weight was place on the belay the belayer was pulled from his stance?
2. How was the belayer locking off?


jt512


Feb 9, 2011, 4:28 AM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
You said what is standard practice is "belaying off the harness without a redirect." Now you're saying have the anchor take the load. But it can't, by definition, if you're belaying off the harness without a redirect.

You certainly can.
-Belay biner through harness with ATC. Hence belaying off harness, no redirect.
-Anchor attached to belay biner without slack. Hence anchor takes load.

This is a pointlessly convoluted version of a direct belay off the anchor.

Jay


jt512


Feb 9, 2011, 4:35 AM
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shoo wrote:
It should be obvious that either a redirect off the anchor or a guide block device direct from the anchor are vastly superior to a direct from harness belay in the vast majority of scenarios.

Superior in what way? There is no difference in safety. As I have previously discussed, a direct belay off the anchor, except with a munter hitch, results in a terrible belay for the second (see the previous thread on this; I don't want to get into again), and lowering would be all but impossible. The redirect is superior to the belay off the harness for lowering only because it is vastly more comfortable for the lowerer, who doesn't have to suffer with 170 pounds of dead weight hanging off his kidneys while lowering.

Jay


jt512


Feb 9, 2011, 4:39 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
If the belayer had been using a gri gri and a re-direct this accident would prolly not have happened.

Yeah, but some other accident probably would have.

Jay


112


Feb 9, 2011, 4:40 AM
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dugl33 wrote:
Without an anchor, yes, you will get pulled off.

Don't get Joseph started on stances!

(This post was edited by 112 on Feb 9, 2011, 5:10 AM)


patto


Feb 9, 2011, 4:56 AM
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jt512 wrote:
This is a pointlessly convoluted version of a direct belay off the anchor.

Convaluted? Hardly. It is quite simple Jay. Surely you can understand the advantages of belaying off your harness. In fact you have argued these advantages previous. Having and ATC attached to the anchor makes taking in slack while being locked off difficult.

This seem yet another method that you simply have no idea about and are completely close minded to. Seriously Jay open you mind a little.


jt512


Feb 9, 2011, 5:00 AM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
This is a pointlessly convoluted version of a direct belay off the anchor.

Convaluted? Hardly. It is quite simple Jay. Surely you can understand the advantages of belaying off your harness. In fact you have argued these advantages previous. Having and ATC attached to the anchor makes taking in slack while being locked off difficult.

This seem yet another method that you simply have no idea about and are completely close minded to. Seriously Jay open you mind a little.

Well, I was going to compliment you...until I read your last paragraph.

Jay


patto


Feb 9, 2011, 5:10 AM
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jt512 wrote:
Well, I was going to compliment you...until I read your last paragraph.

Jay

I'm glad you didn't. I would have fallen out of my chair! Wink


jt512


Feb 9, 2011, 5:12 AM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Well, I was going to compliment you...until I read your last paragraph.

Jay

I'm glad you didn't. I would have fallen out of my chair! Wink

I was quite shocked myself, you not being wrong. ;)

Jay


healyje


Feb 9, 2011, 5:38 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
One reply said flatly that he never used an anchor, implying to me that he just stands or sits above a climber. That makes no sense to me in terms of safety for the circumstance, making the total of responses more confusing to me, as stated.

Some of us are old guys who climbed bitd on just stoppers and hexs and sometimes you ran out of most gear before an anchor or the anchor you could get would be marginal. We'd essentially never weight an anchor unless it were a hanging belay and there was no choice - we used stance belaying with anchors as a backup. Proper stancing is all but a lost craft at this point. I still never weight an anchor unless I have to.

Rmsyll2 wrote:
I do believe that a cam device would have been the saving grace in this case and in general, that is why they were developed and how they became so popular; and D. did belay A. with one at the start. Yes, the handle or cam on a GriGri or Cinch can be held in the open position and drop a climber, but that is not a trained response so far as I know or suspect.

No, that's the natural body response and why endless numbers of climbers are dropped with grigiris year in year out. And that is not why they became popular; they became popular because of people repeatedly hanging to rest mid-climb which becomes problematic with ATCs. And it's always the case that something would "have been the saving grace" in specific situations, but in the general case the majority of drops are with grigris.

Rmsyll2 wrote:
No one has mentioned my suggestion of a carabiner auto-block: none of you use that or recommend that for top-belay?

The essential message you should be taking away from this is related to learning, practice, experience, and judgment - not some aspect of devices or belay technique. Any time you think a different device or technique would have changed the outcome of an incident that occurred with fairly standard gear then you are looking at both the wrong problem statement and for the wrong solution.

Rmsyll2 wrote:
The climber D. thought that an ATC used directly could not hold a fall: you are all agreed that is not true, it had to be only belayer error in using it?

Yes, the incident was entirely pilot-error due to inexperience.

Rmsyll2 wrote:
It was D.'s idea that a redirect would reduce brake force needed, and my notion of pulley advantage is a crude attempt to figure out why he would think so. Do you all (except the fellow talking about doubling the force on the anchor) agree there is only friction involved in any arrangement of any belay system, so the system is only personal preferrence with no best way to do a top-belay?

The forces involved with this incident - whether using direct or indirect belaying - were all well within a normal capability of a belay. What's really going on is that gym, sport, and single pitch climbers don't have much experience belaying from the tops of climbs where the orientation of the rope, device and hand is downward rather than upward when belaying off the harness. The real advantage of redirecting the belay in today's world where that is the case is that doing so restores that orientation back to one that is more familiar for many if not most climbers. In that orientation they are both more comfortable and hence more competent.

But again, this doesn't have anything to do with different devices or techniques, this was strictly a matter of not having the requisite experience and skill at the specific choices D and A made as they contemplated executing the lower.


JAB


Feb 9, 2011, 7:28 AM
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healyje wrote:
But again, this doesn't have anything to do with different devices or techniques, this was strictly a matter of not having the requisite experience and skill at the specific choices D and A made as they contemplated executing the lower.

This sums it up quite well. To add, a regular ATC does not have a lot of friction, and I wouldn't be surprised if the strong-backed dropped marine would be a lot heavier than his belayer. Start lowering with a slightly wrong grip and before you know it you have lost control.


blondgecko
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
This is a pointlessly convoluted version of a direct belay off the anchor.

Convaluted? Hardly. It is quite simple Jay. Surely you can understand the advantages of belaying off your harness. In fact you have argued these advantages previous. Having and ATC attached to the anchor makes taking in slack while being locked off difficult.

Well, yes and no. If the anchor is built out of the rope and is more than a few feet from the power point (think any ledgy top-out), this is a non-issue. Get the length right, seat yourself comfortably beside it, and take in slack more or less as you would while belaying from a harness. In the case of a fall, the stretch of the rope in the anchor moves the power point down and away from you, leaving you more-or-less automatically locked off. With a bit of practice, it can be very comfortable and smooth.


Partner j_ung


Feb 9, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Re: [healyje] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
Anchor setup - irrelevant

Off the harness or redirect - irrelevant

Hand method with the belay device - irrelevant

Type of ATC - irrelevant

ATC or Grigri - irrelevant

The only thing that is relevant is that the belayer wasn't up to the task at hand with the device he was using. He had inadequate knowledge and experience for belaying in that situation and circumstance they found themselves in and both were unprepared for the decisions they needed to make at that moment. The both climbers needed more time seconding a competent leaders and more time belaying before venturing into multipitch on their own.

Given an adequate anchor, all the rest of the banter in this thread is personal preference with little to no bearing the incident.

Of course, I agree, but I'm not sure you're disagreeing with anybody else. It seems to me you're speaking in general terms, while others are discussing specifics.


cfnubbler


Feb 9, 2011, 2:36 PM
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Re: [jt512] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
shoo wrote:
It should be obvious that either a redirect off the anchor or a guide block device direct from the anchor are vastly superior to a direct from harness belay in the vast majority of scenarios.

Superior in what way? There is no difference in safety. As I have previously discussed, a direct belay off the anchor, except with a munter hitch, results in a terrible belay for the second (see the previous thread on this; I don't want to get into again), and lowering would be all but impossible. The redirect is superior to the belay off the harness for lowering only because it is vastly more comfortable for the lowerer, who doesn't have to suffer with 170 pounds of dead weight hanging off his kidneys while lowering.

Jay

I'm aware of your often stated dislike of plaquette belays when seconding, and while I disagree, certainly see your point. But your contention that lowering would be all but impossible with one is just plain silly. I can flip a loaded plaquette and transition to a lower in about a minute, and a hell of a lot faster than that if the climber is able to unweight the device his/herself. If one can't do so, one has no business using them in the first place.


(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Feb 9, 2011, 2:38 PM)


iknowfear


Feb 9, 2011, 4:06 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
jt512 wrote:
shoo wrote:
It should be obvious that either a redirect off the anchor or a guide block device direct from the anchor are vastly superior to a direct from harness belay in the vast majority of scenarios.

Superior in what way? There is no difference in safety. As I have previously discussed, a direct belay off the anchor, except with a munter hitch, results in a terrible belay for the second (see the previous thread on this; I don't want to get into again), and lowering would be all but impossible. The redirect is superior to the belay off the harness for lowering only because it is vastly more comfortable for the lowerer, who doesn't have to suffer with 170 pounds of dead weight hanging off his kidneys while lowering.

Jay

I'm aware of your often stated dislike of plaquette belays when seconding, and while I disagree, certainly see your point. But your contention that lowering would be all but impossible with one is just plain silly. I can flip a loaded plaquette and transition to a lower in about a minute, and a hell of a lot faster than that if the climber is able to unweight the device his/herself. If one can't do so, one has no business using them in the first place.

The vast majority of belayers with an atc guide or such in autoblock THINK they know what happens when the autoblock is released. However, most have NEVER tried it out (I'm not saying that is your case, but just my observation).

Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)


healyje


Feb 9, 2011, 7:36 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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I'm doing so because the the specifics are largely irrelevant to the lesson the OP should be taking away (basic pilot error) and all the the rest seems to be confusing them by reinforcing their assumption the lack of a different device or technique was the problem. Bottom line is you should be able to lower someone all day with the configuration they were using, that they couldn't was the issue both in their judgment and skill level relative to that choice.


patto


Feb 9, 2011, 10:47 PM
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Re: [iknowfear] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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iknowfear wrote:
Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)

Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good.

If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong.

(Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)


(This post was edited by patto on Feb 9, 2011, 10:48 PM)


boadman


Feb 9, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
A question has been raised about the ability of the belayer to make a proper anchor, as indicating general competence: see Att'd.

The rigging used relied on the belay loop with two carabiners not directly connected. I do not know the usual kN for those, but it is usually relied on. I don't see that as an issue here.

Majid's drawing seems to show two ways to make a redirect belay; but some posters do not use that, doing it as in the first photo. I think now that an ATC is good only for rappelling, however many do use it for belay. A Reverso now seems much better for belay. Both are always a two-strand pulley, so a redirect makes a four-strand pulley?

I suspect now that the accident was directly belayer error, not coordinating his hands correctly to lower under device control, however it was rigged; but that will not be known. I still don't know what should be done for a safe, reliable top-belay. Any method works perfectly -- until a climber falls.

LL
.

ATCs work just fine without any sort of re-direct. Your friend "A" dropped his partner. Period.


cfnubbler


Feb 10, 2011, 1:12 AM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)

Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good.

If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong.

(Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)

The point of the munter (or some other backup) is not for the lower itself, but to guard against the very abrupt transition from autoblocking mode to completely released when one flips a loaded reverso or other plaquette style device. They tend not to gradually release, and instead suddenly go almost frictionless. Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device. Not having a backup in place when performing this transition is just plain foolish. A munter is one option.


(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Feb 10, 2011, 1:50 AM)


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 1:19 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device.

Hence one should keep the brake strand behind the device in a locked off position like I suggested. If you do lock it off then it is no different from a regular lowering.

If you don't lock off then sure it can get pretty bad pretty quickly. But that is the same with all belaying or lowering.


cfnubbler


Feb 10, 2011, 1:39 AM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device.

Hence one should keep the brake strand behind the device in a locked off position like I suggested. If you do lock it off then it is no different from a regular lowering.

If you don't lock off then sure it can get pretty bad pretty quickly. But that is the same with all belaying or lowering.

That's not the issue he's alluding to. When a climber is hanging on a Reverso, and you want to transition to a lower, then the device needs to be flipped around out of autoblcoking mode and in to standard tube style mode. Before you flip the device, two things need to happen:

1. The brake strand MUST be redirected behind the device.

2. Some backup must be in place. It is very easy to loose control of the situation when flipping a loaded device. A munter is one possibility, though certainly not the most efficient. IMO, a better option is a friction hitch on the brake strand and attached to my belay loop. Whatever, there just really, really needs to be some backup in place.


(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Feb 10, 2011, 1:42 AM)


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 2:04 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
1. The brake strand MUST be redirected behind the device.
As I said. The brake strand must be locked off. Nobody is doubting that.

cfnubbler wrote:
2. Some backup must be in place. It is very easy to loose control of the situation when flipping a loaded device. A munter is one possibility, though certainly not the most efficient. IMO, a better option is a friction hitch on the brake strand and attached to my belay loop. Whatever, there just really, really needs to be some backup in place.
No there really really doesn't need to be a back up. If you are locked off the you are locked off. If you can't handle an increasing load on a locked off belay then you SHOULDN'T BE BELAYING!


curt


Feb 10, 2011, 3:06 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device.

Hence one should keep the brake strand behind the device in a locked off position like I suggested. If you do lock it off then it is no different from a regular lowering.

If you don't lock off then sure it can get pretty bad pretty quickly. But that is the same with all belaying or lowering.

That's not the issue he's alluding to. When a climber is hanging on a Reverso, and you want to transition to a lower, then the device needs to be flipped around out of autoblcoking mode and in to standard tube style mode. Before you flip the device, two things need to happen:

1. The brake strand MUST be redirected behind the device.

2. Some backup must be in place. It is very easy to loose control of the situation when flipping a loaded device. A munter is one possibility, though certainly not the most efficient. IMO, a better option is a friction hitch on the brake strand and attached to my belay loop. Whatever, there just really, really needs to be some backup in place.

You should be aware that this is an argument that patto has had (and lost) before on these forums. Yet, for some reason he still persists.

Curt


Lbrombach


Feb 10, 2011, 4:03 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)

Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good.

If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong.

(Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)

The point of the munter (or some other backup) is not for the lower itself, but to guard against the very abrupt transition from autoblocking mode to completely released when one flips a loaded reverso or other plaquette style device. They tend not to gradually release, and instead suddenly go almost frictionless. Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device. Not having a backup in place when performing this transition is just plain foolish. A munter is one option.

Someone please educate me: Is there some major difference related to this matter between the Reverso and the Reverso 3? I don't have any problem lowering someone in a perfectly controlled manner with the Reverso 3 - you hang onto the brake strand, use a biner for a lever and ease 'er on down.


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 5:00 AM
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Re: [Lbrombach] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
You should be aware that this is an argument that patto has had (and lost) before on these forums. Yet, for some reason he still persists.
Sorry I didn't know you where the official arbiter. Crazy How did I lose the argument?

Nothing has changed. The reverso will still easily hold a climber if you had the brake strand locked off.

Lbrombach wrote:
Someone please educate me: Is there some major difference related to this matter between the Reverso and the Reverso 3?
The Reverso doesn't have the biner hole to assist in lowering. The operation of the device is similar and the same principle applies to lowering.

Lbrombach wrote:
I don't have any problem lowering someone in a perfectly controlled manner with the Reverso 3 - you hang onto the brake strand, use a biner for a lever and ease 'er on down.
Exactly. Smile I don't problem lowering either. But some people around here think that it is instant death on a stick.


(This post was edited by patto on Feb 10, 2011, 5:01 AM)


curt


Feb 10, 2011, 5:31 AM
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patto wrote:
curt wrote:
You should be aware that this is an argument that patto has had (and lost) before on these forums. Yet, for some reason he still persists.
Sorry I didn't know you where the official arbiter.

That's OK, I forgive you.

patto wrote:
How did I lose the argument?

Since everyone else, including much more experienced climbers than you, disagree with you on this point regarding the reverso, I think the onus is clearly on you to explain how you didn't lose the argument. Oh, and just restating that you have (so far) apparently gotten away with your inherently dangerous method, doesn't count.

Curt


vegastradguy


Feb 10, 2011, 6:07 AM
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Re: [Lbrombach] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Lbrombach wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)

Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good.

If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong.

(Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)

The point of the munter (or some other backup) is not for the lower itself, but to guard against the very abrupt transition from autoblocking mode to completely released when one flips a loaded reverso or other plaquette style device. They tend not to gradually release, and instead suddenly go almost frictionless. Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device. Not having a backup in place when performing this transition is just plain foolish. A munter is one option.

Someone please educate me: Is there some major difference related to this matter between the Reverso and the Reverso 3? I don't have any problem lowering someone in a perfectly controlled manner with the Reverso 3 - you hang onto the brake strand, use a biner for a lever and ease 'er on down.

basically, when the device is levered out of autolock position, if the brake is not redirected up above the device, the brake side of the rope is parallel with the loaded strand- which in an ATC/tube style device, is the point of least friction. redirecting the brake up above the device puts the brake side of the rope in the position of most friction and therefore much more control. a backup is also a good idea as well.

if you read the instructions on the Reverso 3 (and you should always read the instructions on any device), it will tell you this and provide images as well.


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 8:04 AM
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Re: [curt] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
Oh, and just restating that you have (so far) apparently gotten away with your inherently dangerous method, doesn't count.

If using your hand to hold the brake strand of a belay device in locked position is dangerous then that would imply that all belaying is dangerous. A lead catch has far higher forces held by a locked off belay device.


iknowfear


Feb 10, 2011, 11:43 AM
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patto wrote:
curt wrote:
Oh, and just restating that you have (so far) apparently gotten away with your inherently dangerous method, doesn't count.

If using your hand to hold the brake strand of a belay device in locked position is dangerous then that would imply that all belaying is dangerous. A lead catch has far higher forces held by a locked off belay device.

Apple, Meet Orange.

In a lead fall scenario, the atc is on your belay loop, oriented in way that makes locking fairly easy. (While still possible to FU. See the million threads about dropped people)

In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging,
and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).

just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.

Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?

Anyway, I stand by my statement. Do NOT use a plaquette (ATC Guide, Reverso etc) in autoblock mode without having tested how to release it in a safe situation!

Cheers.


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Re: [iknowfear] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

iknowfear wrote:
just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.
I have released and lowered numerous times. With climbers of all weights including heavy climbers. Sometimes with the climber directly (1m) below the anchor.

iknowfear wrote:
Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?
Surely the second time wouldn't have been surprising? Expect a quick release because that is how the device works. If you are locked off properly then all is good. Smile


Partner j_ung


Feb 10, 2011, 1:48 PM
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I've never seen so many agreeing with other who think they're actually disagreeing.


Lbrombach


Feb 10, 2011, 2:19 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
Lbrombach wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)

Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good.

If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong.

(Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)

The point of the munter (or some other backup) is not for the lower itself, but to guard against the very abrupt transition from autoblocking mode to completely released when one flips a loaded reverso or other plaquette style device. They tend not to gradually release, and instead suddenly go almost frictionless. Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device. Not having a backup in place when performing this transition is just plain foolish. A munter is one option.

Someone please educate me: Is there some major difference related to this matter between the Reverso and the Reverso 3? I don't have any problem lowering someone in a perfectly controlled manner with the Reverso 3 - you hang onto the brake strand, use a biner for a lever and ease 'er on down.

basically, when the device is levered out of autolock position, if the brake is not redirected up above the device, the brake side of the rope is parallel with the loaded strand- which in an ATC/tube style device, is the point of least friction. redirecting the brake up above the device puts the brake side of the rope in the position of most friction and therefore much more control. a backup is also a good idea as well.

if you read the instructions on the Reverso 3 (and you should always read the instructions on any device), it will tell you this and provide images as well.


I thoroughly read the instructions when I got it, and recall nothing about backing up. hang on a sec...I'm gonna check.

OK, I'm back. Yeah, it says nothing about what you speak of. I understand that with an ATC what you are saying makes sense. The Reverso 3 is not an ATC, however and lowering either light or heavy climbers with the manufacturers recommended method simply isn't a problem...not for me anyway. Manufacturer says to hold the brake strand and lever with a biner. The end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93YDB1jj21s
http://www.petzl.com/...leasing_reverso3.gif


csproul


Feb 10, 2011, 2:49 PM
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patto wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
1. The brake strand MUST be redirected behind the device.
As I said. The brake strand must be locked off. Nobody is doubting that.

cfnubbler wrote:
2. Some backup must be in place. It is very easy to loose control of the situation when flipping a loaded device. A munter is one possibility, though certainly not the most efficient. IMO, a better option is a friction hitch on the brake strand and attached to my belay loop. Whatever, there just really, really needs to be some backup in place.
No there really really doesn't need to be a back up. If you are locked off the you are locked off. If you can't handle an increasing load on a locked off belay then you SHOULDN'T BE BELAYING!
I'm going to disagree with you too. I find it extremely awkward to hold the brake strand in the braked position when the rope is through a reverso attached to an anchor. Enough so, that I'd seriously doubt my ability to safely lower someone without redirecting the brake strand or using a friction hitch backup. I doubt my experience is all that unique. Most climbers that I have witnessed who think they have adequate control braking directly off the anchor have been deluding themselves.


csproul


Feb 10, 2011, 2:55 PM
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Re: [Lbrombach] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Lbrombach wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
Lbrombach wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...)

Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good.

If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong.

(Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)

The point of the munter (or some other backup) is not for the lower itself, but to guard against the very abrupt transition from autoblocking mode to completely released when one flips a loaded reverso or other plaquette style device. They tend not to gradually release, and instead suddenly go almost frictionless. Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device. Not having a backup in place when performing this transition is just plain foolish. A munter is one option.

Someone please educate me: Is there some major difference related to this matter between the Reverso and the Reverso 3? I don't have any problem lowering someone in a perfectly controlled manner with the Reverso 3 - you hang onto the brake strand, use a biner for a lever and ease 'er on down.

basically, when the device is levered out of autolock position, if the brake is not redirected up above the device, the brake side of the rope is parallel with the loaded strand- which in an ATC/tube style device, is the point of least friction. redirecting the brake up above the device puts the brake side of the rope in the position of most friction and therefore much more control. a backup is also a good idea as well.

if you read the instructions on the Reverso 3 (and you should always read the instructions on any device), it will tell you this and provide images as well.


I thoroughly read the instructions when I got it, and recall nothing about backing up. hang on a sec...I'm gonna check.

OK, I'm back. Yeah, it says nothing about what you speak of. I understand that with an ATC what you are saying makes sense. The Reverso 3 is not an ATC, however and lowering either light or heavy climbers with the manufacturers recommended method simply isn't a problem...not for me anyway. Manufacturer says to hold the brake strand and lever with a biner. The end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93YDB1jj21s
http://www.petzl.com/...leasing_reverso3.gif
In my experience this works fine to lower a short distance. But if I need to lower anyone any real length, I redirect the brake strand up through the anchor and/or place a friction hitch on the brake side.


cfnubbler


Feb 10, 2011, 3:08 PM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

iknowfear wrote:
just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.
I have released and lowered numerous times. With climbers of all weights including heavy climbers. Sometimes with the climber directly (1m) below the anchor.

iknowfear wrote:
Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?
Surely the second time wouldn't have been surprising? Expect a quick release because that is how the device works. If you are locked off properly then all is good. Smile

Have a look at this video:

http://climbinglife.com/tech-tips/releasing-an-atc-guide-belay-video.html

Eli is a UIAGM guide and senior member of the AMGA instructor pool. He knows what he's talking about. The method he demonstrates is one excellent way to deal with this issue. If Eli needs a backup, you should probably have one too. The fact that you haven't dropped anyone yet is not evidence that your methods are safe. Look in to the familiarity heuristic: You're practically a poster boy.

In any case, I'm done with this discussion. It appears we may have to agree to disagree. I'm OK with that. Safe and happy climbing to you!


jt512


Feb 10, 2011, 5:17 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

iknowfear wrote:
just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.
I have released and lowered numerous times. With climbers of all weights including heavy climbers. Sometimes with the climber directly (1m) below the anchor.

iknowfear wrote:
Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?
Surely the second time wouldn't have been surprising? Expect a quick release because that is how the device works. If you are locked off properly then all is good. Smile

Have a look at this video:

http://climbinglife.com/tech-tips/releasing-an-atc-guide-belay-video.html

Eli is a UIAGM guide and senior member of the AMGA instructor pool. He knows what he's talking about. The method he demonstrates is one excellent way to deal with this issue. If Eli needs a backup, you should probably have one too. The fact that you haven't dropped anyone yet is not evidence that your methods are safe. Look in to the familiarity heuristic: You're practically a poster boy.

In any case, I'm done with this discussion. It appears we may have to agree to disagree. I'm OK with that. Safe and happy climbing to you!

After watching that video, I am amazed that anybody would consider buying an ATC-Gude.

Jay


cfnubbler


Feb 10, 2011, 5:22 PM
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Re: [jt512] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

iknowfear wrote:
just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.
I have released and lowered numerous times. With climbers of all weights including heavy climbers. Sometimes with the climber directly (1m) below the anchor.

iknowfear wrote:
Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?
Surely the second time wouldn't have been surprising? Expect a quick release because that is how the device works. If you are locked off properly then all is good. Smile

Have a look at this video:

http://climbinglife.com/tech-tips/releasing-an-atc-guide-belay-video.html

Eli is a UIAGM guide and senior member of the AMGA instructor pool. He knows what he's talking about. The method he demonstrates is one excellent way to deal with this issue. If Eli needs a backup, you should probably have one too. The fact that you haven't dropped anyone yet is not evidence that your methods are safe. Look in to the familiarity heuristic: You're practically a poster boy.

In any case, I'm done with this discussion. It appears we may have to agree to disagree. I'm OK with that. Safe and happy climbing to you!

After watching that video, I am amazed that anybody would consider buying an ATC-Gude.

Jay

Understandable. When it's done at that pace, it does seem to take forever. If one just does it as opposed to slowly talking through every step for teaching purposes, it's actually pretty quick. Still, there's no denying it's more cumbersome than other direct belay methods. I personally find its advantages outweigh its disadvantages in many situations. That said, I also use a lot of munters. They're all just tools in the toolbox.


(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Feb 10, 2011, 5:24 PM)


reg


Feb 10, 2011, 5:40 PM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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with all due respect, tell us you know the difference between reverso when "locked off" and reverso in "auto-block" mode.


cfnubbler


Feb 10, 2011, 5:42 PM
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Re: [reg] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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reg wrote:
with all due respect, tell us you know the difference between reverso when "locked off" and reverso in "auto-block" mode.

Who?


jt512


Feb 10, 2011, 5:45 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
jt512 wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

iknowfear wrote:
just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.
I have released and lowered numerous times. With climbers of all weights including heavy climbers. Sometimes with the climber directly (1m) below the anchor.

iknowfear wrote:
Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?
Surely the second time wouldn't have been surprising? Expect a quick release because that is how the device works. If you are locked off properly then all is good. Smile

Have a look at this video:

http://climbinglife.com/tech-tips/releasing-an-atc-guide-belay-video.html

Eli is a UIAGM guide and senior member of the AMGA instructor pool. He knows what he's talking about. The method he demonstrates is one excellent way to deal with this issue. If Eli needs a backup, you should probably have one too. The fact that you haven't dropped anyone yet is not evidence that your methods are safe. Look in to the familiarity heuristic: You're practically a poster boy.

In any case, I'm done with this discussion. It appears we may have to agree to disagree. I'm OK with that. Safe and happy climbing to you!

After watching that video, I am amazed that anybody would consider buying an ATC-Gude.

Jay

Understandable. When it's done at that pace, it does seem to take forever. If one just does it as opposed to slowly talking through every step for teaching purposes, it's actually pretty quick. Still, there's no denying it's more cumbersome than other direct belay methods. I personally find its advantages outweigh its disadvantages in many situations. That said, I also use a lot of munters. They're all just tools in the toolbox.

I see no benefit great enough that could offset the need for such a cluster-fuck just to lower your partner. Actually, I see no benefit to these autoblocking devices at all. But we've been through this before.

Of course I'm sure that there are people who will buy the device just to be able to rig the cluster-fuck.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 10, 2011, 5:46 PM)


vegastradguy


Feb 10, 2011, 5:57 PM
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Re: [jt512] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
jt512 wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

iknowfear wrote:
just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.
I have released and lowered numerous times. With climbers of all weights including heavy climbers. Sometimes with the climber directly (1m) below the anchor.

iknowfear wrote:
Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?
Surely the second time wouldn't have been surprising? Expect a quick release because that is how the device works. If you are locked off properly then all is good. Smile

Have a look at this video:

http://climbinglife.com/tech-tips/releasing-an-atc-guide-belay-video.html

Eli is a UIAGM guide and senior member of the AMGA instructor pool. He knows what he's talking about. The method he demonstrates is one excellent way to deal with this issue. If Eli needs a backup, you should probably have one too. The fact that you haven't dropped anyone yet is not evidence that your methods are safe. Look in to the familiarity heuristic: You're practically a poster boy.

In any case, I'm done with this discussion. It appears we may have to agree to disagree. I'm OK with that. Safe and happy climbing to you!

After watching that video, I am amazed that anybody would consider buying an ATC-Gude.

Jay

Understandable. When it's done at that pace, it does seem to take forever. If one just does it as opposed to slowly talking through every step for teaching purposes, it's actually pretty quick. Still, there's no denying it's more cumbersome than other direct belay methods. I personally find its advantages outweigh its disadvantages in many situations. That said, I also use a lot of munters. They're all just tools in the toolbox.

I see no benefit great enough that could offset the need for such a cluster-fuck just to lower your partner. Actually, I see no benefit to these autoblocking devices at all. But we've been through this before.

Of course I'm sure that there are people who will buy the device just to be able to rig the cluster-fuck.

Jay

agreed- i stopped using the guide mode in general about 6 months after i learned the trick on the original reverso- i occasionally use it today if i'm running a party of 3, but thats still rare. i think its an overrated party trick for 95% of climbers, and the other 5% are guides who actually do need it for more than one client.


chilli


Feb 10, 2011, 6:08 PM
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jt512 wrote:
I see no benefit great enough that could offset the need for such a cluster-fuck just to lower your partner. Actually, I see no benefit to these autoblocking devices at all. But we've been through this before.

Of course I'm sure that there are people who will buy the device just to be able to rig the cluster-fuck.

Jay

i think jay's absolutely right.
it makes an escape easier, and it makes 3-party systems faster and that's about it. other than that, it's kinda cumbersome and superfluous to the goals for the day. i used to be one of the people that used guide mode frequently, and frankly it's lame. learning how to escape appropriately and dealing with the extra steps there removes the extra steps from lowering. which are you going to do more frequently?


cfnubbler


Feb 10, 2011, 6:18 PM
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chilli wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I see no benefit great enough that could offset the need for such a cluster-fuck just to lower your partner. Actually, I see no benefit to these autoblocking devices at all. But we've been through this before.

Of course I'm sure that there are people who will buy the device just to be able to rig the cluster-fuck.

Jay

i think jay's absolutely right.
it makes an escape easier, and it makes 3-party systems faster and that's about it. other than that, it's kinda cumbersome and superfluous to the goals for the day. i used to be one of the people that used guide mode frequently, and frankly it's lame. learning how to escape appropriately and dealing with the extra steps there removes the extra steps from lowering. which are you going to do more frequently?

What I'm doing most frequently is belaying two seconds simultaneously, and for this, the autoblocking mode is very useful. When I'm belaying one second, I'm more likely to choose a munter or a gri gri directly off the anchor. None of these techniques are lame. Once again, they are all just tools that need to be applied at the right time and in the right place.


(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Feb 10, 2011, 6:19 PM)


bearbreeder


Feb 10, 2011, 6:25 PM
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jt512 wrote:

After watching that video, I am amazed that anybody would consider buying an ATC-Gude.

Jay


guess you know more and climb more and better than this lazy bum who uses a guide to drag some damn boulderer up some minor insignificant hill ... Wink



http://vimeo.com/10584731


chilli


Feb 10, 2011, 6:58 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
chilli wrote:
...it makes an escape easier, and it makes 3-party systems faster and that's about it. other than that, it's kinda cumbersome and superfluous to the goals for the day. i used to be one of the people that used guide mode frequently, and frankly it's lame. learning how to escape appropriately and dealing with the extra steps there removes the extra steps from lowering. which are you going to do more frequently?

What I'm doing most frequently is belaying two seconds simultaneously, and for this, the autoblocking mode is very useful....Once again, they are all just tools that need to be applied at the right time and in the right place.

point accounted for. i also forgot to mention z-drag facility in autoblock. my intent was to convey that there are uses, but seriously: day-to-day set-up with autoblock mode isn't necessary hence i said "superfluous." and stand by it.


iknowfear


Feb 10, 2011, 7:38 PM
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patto wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging, and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).
Crazy Difficult or impossible!? Crazy
1. Take right hand place on brake strand.
2. Move brake strand into locked off position and grip firmly.

Seriously, it isn't that hard!

look at the picture (repost. sorry.)


imagine the atc hanging from the anchor at chest level or higher.
now the lock off position of the break strand is somwhere above your head. I call that difficult (and very uncomfortable)


reg


Feb 10, 2011, 8:28 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
reg wrote:
with all due respect, tell us you know the difference between reverso when "locked off" and reverso in "auto-block" mode.

Who?

patto


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 10:24 PM
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Those who think that it is a superfluous piece of gear fine. But it is just another tool is very useful. By the same token the grigri is superfluous but they seem damn popular especially among sport climbers. I climb trad multipitch and a Reverso is extremely useful. I often lead 2 seconds and it is fantastic for that.

If YOU have difficulty lowering by all means use a 17 backups. Personally I am happy following Petzl's recommendation. SmileSmileWink


(Reg, I have no idea what you are asking. 'Autolock mode' is a position of the device. "Locked off" implies that the brake strand is in a locked off position.)


(This post was edited by patto on Feb 10, 2011, 10:26 PM)


healyje


Feb 10, 2011, 10:33 PM
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None of this discussion is suitable for beginners and for me mostly highlights that belaying off the anchor is really mostly all about how much dogging seconds are doing such that it makes normal belaying 'inconvenient'.

And the overall rigging/'technique' clusterf#ckage involved (as on display in the debate here) simply shows it's just as much of a fertile ground for screwing up as anything else.

By and large I view belaying off the anchor as really weak, but then I'm old (and think climbing in threesomes is way more trouble than it's worth and that simul-ing seconds is a lousy response to dealing with all the hassle involved.).


(This post was edited by healyje on Feb 11, 2011, 1:12 AM)


blondgecko
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Feb 11, 2011, 8:26 AM
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iknowfear wrote:
patto wrote:
curt wrote:
Oh, and just restating that you have (so far) apparently gotten away with your inherently dangerous method, doesn't count.

If using your hand to hold the brake strand of a belay device in locked position is dangerous then that would imply that all belaying is dangerous. A lead catch has far higher forces held by a locked off belay device.

Apple, Meet Orange.

In a lead fall scenario, the atc is on your belay loop, oriented in way that makes locking fairly easy. (While still possible to FU. See the million threads about dropped people)

In an autoblock scenario, the belay device is hanging,
and getting the brake strand to a lock position without a redirect is very difficult (or, depending where your anchor is, impossible).

just a question to you patto: on the occasions where you released the autoblock, was there:
- friction (rope drag) still in the system up to your second?
- a light climber to be lowered.

Because, the few times that I released the atc-guide, I had to unblock it with my foot (sling in ATC, redirected ) leading to a sudden, surprising and complete release onto the munter. Maybe that's different with a reverso?

Anyway, I stand by my statement. Do NOT use a plaquette (ATC Guide, Reverso etc) in autoblock mode without having tested how to release it in a safe situation!

Cheers.

OK, in my first reply to this thread I missed that the discussion was about autoblocking devices. Now, I'm not saying I particularly like these or see the point in them in anything outside a few unusual situations, but the solution to this is still pretty much as I said. Extend the anchor so that the device is at or slightly below your waist. That way you're belaying more or less as you would if it was attached to your harness, and a fall would naturally leave your break hand in the locked-off position.


csproul


Feb 11, 2011, 1:20 PM
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Having the device at or slightly below your waist makes it more awkward to pull rope through the device while belaying. It is much easier to take in rope if the device is higher, up near your face.


blondgecko
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Feb 11, 2011, 2:35 PM
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csproul wrote:
Having the device at or slightly below your waist makes it more awkward to pull rope through the device while belaying. It is much easier to take in rope if the device is higher, up near your face.

Well, in a choice between comfort and safety with minimum clusterfuckage, I'm going to go with the latter every time - particularly if the discomfort is only minor.


csproul


Feb 11, 2011, 2:41 PM
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blondgecko wrote:
csproul wrote:
Having the device at or slightly below your waist makes it more awkward to pull rope through the device while belaying. It is much easier to take in rope if the device is higher, up near your face.

Well, in a choice between comfort and safety with minimum clusterfuckage, I'm going to go with the latter every time - particularly if the discomfort is only minor.
If that is the case, then I'd vote to not use the Reverso off the anchor at all. You get the best of both worlds: easy to pull in rope and easy to lower (as Jay and RGold have been saying all along). But, if I am going to use the Reverso off the anchor in autoblock, then it is in situations where the second(s) is/are not going fall and having to lower is very unlikely. In this case, I'll go with ease of belaying and keep the device higher.


fresh


Feb 11, 2011, 2:43 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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vegastradguy wrote:
...i stopped using the guide mode in general about 6 months after i learned the trick on the original reverso...
what trick?

I hate guide mode for the reasons mentioned, but a month later I'm still working out the twists in my rope after using the munter twice.


vegastradguy


Feb 11, 2011, 3:27 PM
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Re: [fresh] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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fresh wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
...i stopped using the guide mode in general about 6 months after i learned the trick on the original reverso...
what trick?

I hate guide mode for the reasons mentioned, but a month later I'm still working out the twists in my rope after using the munter twice.

trick = guide mode.

its a trick, nothing more.

and, i should add, if you are doing THAT much lowering when using the guide mode, then you really ought to re-evaluate your use of it. its meant for emergencies...


Partner cracklover


Feb 11, 2011, 5:12 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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People are talking about how great the reverso/atc guide is for bringing up two seconds at once. To me this sounds insane. Take the issues raised so far for taking it out of autoloblocking mode when someone is hanging on it, add a second second, and you have a mess.

When one second falls, the other can't move, right? Until you unblock the fallen climbber, and now to lower one you have to have both strands through redirects or munters and the device is now effectively an ATC in which the climber and belayer strands are parallel, and there are two climbers going in opposite directions you must belay. Yech.

I use a TRE, which has none of these issues, and is excellent for bringing up two seconds. If one falls, you can still move the other rope independently. But frankly I'd use a regular ATC before I'd choose one of those full autoblocking devices considering the nonsense involved. Especially if bringing up two seconds on overhanging terrain.

GO


madscientist


Feb 11, 2011, 5:56 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
People are talking about how great the reverso/atc guide is for bringing up two seconds at once. To me this sounds insane. Take the issues raised so far for taking it out of autoloblocking mode when someone is hanging on it, add a second second, and you have a mess.

When one second falls, the other can't move, right? Until you unblock the fallen climbber, and now to lower one you have to have both strands through redirects or munters and the device is now effectively an ATC in which the climber and belayer strands are parallel, and there are two climbers going in opposite directions you must belay. Yech.

I use a TRE, which has none of these issues, and is excellent for bringing up two seconds. If one falls, you can still move the other rope independently. But frankly I'd use a regular ATC before I'd choose one of those full autoblocking devices considering the nonsense involved. Especially if bringing up two seconds on overhanging terrain.

GO

When one second falls, the other second can still climb. If you are lowing the climbers often in autoblock mode, then you are in for a long day and should consider rigging things differently or using a different device.


Partner cracklover


Feb 11, 2011, 8:21 PM
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Re: [madscientist] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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madscientist wrote:
cracklover wrote:
People are talking about how great the reverso/atc guide is for bringing up two seconds at once. To me this sounds insane. Take the issues raised so far for taking it out of autoloblocking mode when someone is hanging on it, add a second second, and you have a mess.

When one second falls, the other can't move, right? Until you unblock the fallen climbber, and now to lower one you have to have both strands through redirects or munters and the device is now effectively an ATC in which the climber and belayer strands are parallel, and there are two climbers going in opposite directions you must belay. Yech.

I use a TRE, which has none of these issues, and is excellent for bringing up two seconds. If one falls, you can still move the other rope independently. But frankly I'd use a regular ATC before I'd choose one of those full autoblocking devices considering the nonsense involved. Especially if bringing up two seconds on overhanging terrain.

GO

When one second falls, the other second can still climb. If you are lowing the climbers often in autoblock mode, then you are in for a long day and should consider rigging things differently or using a different device.

Really? If a second is hanging on the device in auto-block mode, you can still move the other second's rope without unblocking the device?

Even if so, you will need to unblock the device to lower the one second, and as soon as you do that, the second second's belay strand is now parallel unless you rig up both through a whatever.

GO


madscientist


Feb 11, 2011, 9:30 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
madscientist wrote:
cracklover wrote:
People are talking about how great the reverso/atc guide is for bringing up two seconds at once. To me this sounds insane. Take the issues raised so far for taking it out of autoloblocking mode when someone is hanging on it, add a second second, and you have a mess.

When one second falls, the other can't move, right? Until you unblock the fallen climbber, and now to lower one you have to have both strands through redirects or munters and the device is now effectively an ATC in which the climber and belayer strands are parallel, and there are two climbers going in opposite directions you must belay. Yech.

I use a TRE, which has none of these issues, and is excellent for bringing up two seconds. If one falls, you can still move the other rope independently. But frankly I'd use a regular ATC before I'd choose one of those full autoblocking devices considering the nonsense involved. Especially if bringing up two seconds on overhanging terrain.

GO

When one second falls, the other second can still climb. If you are lowing the climbers often in autoblock mode, then you are in for a long day and should consider rigging things differently or using a different device.

Really? If a second is hanging on the device in auto-block mode, you can still move the other second's rope without unblocking the device?

Even if so, you will need to unblock the device to lower the one second, and as soon as you do that, the second second's belay strand is now parallel unless you rig up both through a whatever.

GO

You can still move the other seconds rope without unblocking the device. You are correct on the second point. If you are planning on lowering your second, or need to lower a second often, the atc guide or reverso 3 in the autoblock mode is not the best option, in my opinion. It is really not even a good option if you are lowering the second often.


olderic


Feb 11, 2011, 10:02 PM
Post #118 of 151 (12546 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Gabe,

BITD (late 70's) I was with a group that did lots of climbing as groups of 3. Two seconds following each tied into a single 9 (the standard for double ropes in the day). For the belay device - well there was really only 1 choice - a 2 slot Stitch plate. We practiced and "perfected" (one could argue if we achieved that) at the Gunks, Cathedral and Cannon and eventually used the techniques in the alpine - Bugs and Tetons. We usually arranged it so the seconds went "single file" - one about 15 feet above the other (yes it's easy to concoct a scenario where #1 falls on #2). If there was a distinct crux the seconds would usually do it one at a time. We weren't very concerned about the possibility of lowering as we were usually doing this on terrain that was one to 2 full grades below our abilities. A fall would be caused by an accidental slip or a hold breaking - the climber was going to get up under their own steam eventually.

So did we actually save any time doing this? maybe. we thought we did at the time.


patto


Feb 11, 2011, 11:50 PM
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Re: [olderic] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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All this discussion about them being dangerous or a mere gimmick is crazy.

They are safe for the numerous reasons mentioned.

They are highly useful at improving the speed of the party. Massive difference in 3s, smaller differnce in 2s. I can eat, put on a jacket/fleece and organise the rack while safely belaying with a autolock device. Efficiency is important and improves safety on longer climbs.


But I'm done trying to convince people who are stuck in their ways. I use it. Most of my friends use it. We are happy.


jt512


Feb 12, 2011, 12:01 AM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
They are highly useful at improving the speed of the party. Massive difference in 3s, smaller differnce in 2s. I can eat, put on a jacket/fleece and organise the rack while safely belaying with a autolock device.

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you hear "up rope" a lot.

Jay


patto


Feb 12, 2011, 12:22 AM
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jt512 wrote:
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you hear "up rope" a lot.

No.


jt512


Feb 12, 2011, 12:52 AM
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patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you hear "up rope" a lot.

No.

Well, you've convinced me. I've always wanted to belay two seconds hands-off while eating a sandwich. I'm gettin' me an ATC-Guide right now.

Jay


csproul


Feb 12, 2011, 1:05 AM
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jt512 wrote:
patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you hear "up rope" a lot.

No.

Well, you've convinced me. I've always wanted to belay two seconds hands-off while eating a sandwich. I'm gettin' me an ATC-Guide right now.

Jay
But you'd have to climb more than single pitch sport climbs! That is unless you want to eat a sandwich at the top of a sport climb.


kaizen


Feb 12, 2011, 1:12 AM
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Re: [jt512] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you hear "up rope" a lot.

No.

Well, you've convinced me. I've always wanted to belay two seconds hands-off while eating a sandwich. I'm gettin' me an ATC-Guide right now.

Jay

That has always been my biggest issue with people using the device in the autoblock configuration. If someone wants to belay me with "Guide mode on," that is fine, as long as they are attentive and keep their hand on the brake strand at all times. No excuses not to.

I have an ATC Guide, and I will occasionally use it in the autoblock config if I know the only reason I'll have to lower a climber is in an emergency situation. Too many users treat it like a GriGri. I've never understood why people who know they are going to lower someone continue to use it in autoblock.


jt512


Feb 12, 2011, 1:24 AM
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Re: [csproul] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
jt512 wrote:
patto wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you hear "up rope" a lot.

No.

Well, you've convinced me. I've always wanted to belay two seconds hands-off while eating a sandwich. I'm gettin' me an ATC-Guide right now.

Jay
But you'd have to climb more than single pitch sport climbs!

Yeah, you're right. Never mind.

Jay


bearbreeder


Feb 12, 2011, 2:11 AM
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love this discussion ... guess all of us RC bums know better than .... Wink

kelly cordes ...


It’s hard to imagine why anyone climbing a multi-pitch route these days would use a regular tuber or figure-8 on a multi-pitch route. Auto-blocking devices, an evolution from plaquettes or “magic plates,” previously used by savvy climbing guides to manage multiple clients, have rightly caught on with the mainstream. They’re exponentially more efficient, addictively so (I haven’t used a non-auto-blocker for a multi-pitch climb in 10 years), and they’re safer, too. They rappel and feed out rope to the leader just as smoothly, but automatically lock up if the second falls. This last part is where the magic comes – after leading, you can belay the second “hands-free,” just pulling up slack as needed, but not having to hold the rope when they stop to remove gear or work out a move. This allows you to get organized – and staying organized is key for multi-pitch efficiency.



colin haley ...

Belay Devices

Both climbers should absolutely use a belay device that is auto-locking for belaying the follower. Belaying straight off the anchor in this fashion is safer, and gives you time to eat, drink, and adjust clothing at a belay.


andy kirkpatrick

Magic tube

By far the best current belay device and descender is the versatile magic tube design, a cross between a magic plate and belay tube, best demonstrated by the Petzl Reverso and Reversino. The beauty of this design is its flexibility with three different frictional variations available to the user, allowing you to fine tune your rope control. Another important feature is the device’s ability to double as an ascender – a major advantage once it comes to problem solving. Although ascending the rope may seem a strange function for a descender, being able to get back up a rope is often the only way to get down!


wow! ... they must be idiots for using an autoblock device ... how did they ever do all the climbs they do ... Tongue


curt


Feb 12, 2011, 3:05 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
love this discussion ... guess all of us RC bums know better than .... Wink

kelly cordes ...


It’s hard to imagine why anyone climbing a multi-pitch route these days would use a regular tuber or figure-8 on a multi-pitch route. Auto-blocking devices, an evolution from plaquettes or “magic plates,” previously used by savvy climbing guides to manage multiple clients, have rightly caught on with the mainstream. They’re exponentially more efficient, addictively so (I haven’t used a non-auto-blocker for a multi-pitch climb in 10 years), and they’re safer, too. They rappel and feed out rope to the leader just as smoothly, but automatically lock up if the second falls. This last part is where the magic comes – after leading, you can belay the second “hands-free,” just pulling up slack as needed, but not having to hold the rope when they stop to remove gear or work out a move. This allows you to get organized – and staying organized is key for multi-pitch efficiency.

Yes, he seems very safety conscious.

http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/02/05/bad-breaks/

Hitch your wagon to any star you like, dude.

Curt


bearbreeder


Feb 12, 2011, 3:28 AM
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curt wrote:
Yes, he seems very safety conscious.

http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/02/05/bad-breaks/

Hitch your wagon to any star you like, dude.

Curt


sh!t happens ... or are ya saying they are all unsafe .... and autoblock devices as well Wink

the safest way is to not climb at all Tongue


vegastradguy


Feb 12, 2011, 3:42 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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the American Mountain Guides Association teaches as a standard of operation that a tube device in guide mode (autolock) is a hands-free device that you can walk way from without tying off.

I was taught this in my rock instructor course and when i balked at the idea, i was chided and more or less had my concerns ignored and/or dismissed.

there are few hard and fast rules in roped climbing, but there is one that i do not break- my brake hand does not come off the rope while belaying. ever.


(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Feb 12, 2011, 4:47 AM)


jt512


Feb 12, 2011, 3:46 AM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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vegastradguy wrote:
[T]here is one [rule] that i do not break- my brake hand does not come off the rope . . .

Gotta wonder what percentage of rc.com users could spell that sentence correctly, much less understand its importance.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 12, 2011, 3:49 AM)


socalclimber


Feb 12, 2011, 4:05 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
curt wrote:
Yes, he seems very safety conscious.

http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/02/05/bad-breaks/

Hitch your wagon to any star you like, dude.

Curt


sh!t happens ... or are ya saying they are all unsafe .... and autoblock devices as well Wink

the safest way is to not climb at all Tongue

The devices are not unsafe. It's the people who use them.

Belaying either off the anchor or having a redirect off the anchor is useful if you ever need to escape the belay. It's just easier.

I have had a HUGE problem with the Reverso and the ATC Guide in beginners hands since they came out. The people that are using them largely do not seem to understand the systems. It's just a "cool" shiny object. Both are fine devices when used by people who know what they are doing.

These style devices are specific tools to preform specific functions.


jt512


Feb 12, 2011, 4:08 AM
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socalclimber wrote:
I have had a HUGE problem with the Reverso and the ATC Guide in beginners hands since they came out. The people that are using them largely do not seem to understand the systems. It's just a "cool" shiny object.

And in the case of the ATC–Guide, a cool shiny object with the word "guide" in it. What more could a beginner want?

Jay


bearbreeder


Feb 12, 2011, 4:31 AM
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socalclimber wrote:


The devices are not unsafe. It's the people who use them.

Belaying either off the anchor or having a redirect off the anchor is useful if you ever need to escape the belay. It's just easier.

I have had a HUGE problem with the Reverso and the ATC Guide in beginners hands since they came out. The people that are using them largely do not seem to understand the systems. It's just a "cool" shiny object. Both are fine devices when used by people who know what they are doing.

These style devices are specific tools to preform specific functions.


i think its fair to say that ANY device is dangerous in the hands of someone who doesnt know how and is not practiced ... including the very basic ATC ... which is the original drift of this thread

the thing about the autoblocks is that they can simply be used as an ATC ... so i dont quite get the bias some people here have against them ...

you get the bonus of autobloc, high/low friction, use as an ascender, etc ...

and the new ones dont weight that much more anyways

there are quite a few biases IMO on RC ... that people outside just dont bother with ... maybe were all gonna die because of it ... Smile


patto


Feb 12, 2011, 4:45 AM
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vegastradguy wrote:
the American Mountain Guides Association teaches as a standard of operation that a tube device in guide mode (autolock) is a hands-free device that you can walk way from without tying off.

I was taught this in my rock instructor course and when i balked at the idea, i was chided and more or less had my concernes ignored and/or dismissed.

there are few hard and fast rules in roped climbing, but there is one that i do not break- my brake hand does not come off the rope while belaying. ever.

So you think that you brake hand is stronger than 80kg of force pinching the rope?

It isn't about breaking rules its about knowing the operation of your equipment.


socalclimber


Feb 12, 2011, 4:59 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
socalclimber wrote:


The devices are not unsafe. It's the people who use them.

Belaying either off the anchor or having a redirect off the anchor is useful if you ever need to escape the belay. It's just easier.

I have had a HUGE problem with the Reverso and the ATC Guide in beginners hands since they came out. The people that are using them largely do not seem to understand the systems. It's just a "cool" shiny object. Both are fine devices when used by people who know what they are doing.

These style devices are specific tools to preform specific functions.


i think its fair to say that ANY device is dangerous in the hands of someone who doesnt know how and is not practiced ... including the very basic ATC ... which is the original drift of this thread

While I agree with this statement, I disagree with the over all sentiment. The basic belay device is one thing, but when it comes to devices like the reverso or the atc guide, it's quite another.


notapplicable


Feb 12, 2011, 6:08 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
love this discussion ... guess all of us RC bums know better than .... Wink

kelly cordes ...


It’s hard to imagine why anyone climbing a multi-pitch route these days would use a regular tuber or figure-8 on a multi-pitch route. Auto-blocking devices, an evolution from plaquettes or “magic plates,” previously used by savvy climbing guides to manage multiple clients, have rightly caught on with the mainstream. They’re exponentially more efficient, addictively so (I haven’t used a non-auto-blocker for a multi-pitch climb in 10 years), and they’re safer, too. They rappel and feed out rope to the leader just as smoothly, but automatically lock up if the second falls. This last part is where the magic comes – after leading, you can belay the second “hands-free,” just pulling up slack as needed, but not having to hold the rope when they stop to remove gear or work out a move. This allows you to get organized – and staying organized is key for multi-pitch efficiency.



colin haley ...

Belay Devices

Both climbers should absolutely use a belay device that is auto-locking for belaying the follower. Belaying straight off the anchor in this fashion is safer, and gives you time to eat, drink, and adjust clothing at a belay.


andy kirkpatrick

Magic tube

By far the best current belay device and descender is the versatile magic tube design, a cross between a magic plate and belay tube, best demonstrated by the Petzl Reverso and Reversino. The beauty of this design is its flexibility with three different frictional variations available to the user, allowing you to fine tune your rope control. Another important feature is the device’s ability to double as an ascender – a major advantage once it comes to problem solving. Although ascending the rope may seem a strange function for a descender, being able to get back up a rope is often the only way to get down!


wow! ... they must be idiots for using an autoblock device ... how did they ever do all the climbs they do ... Tongue

I think those are unwise endorsements for any belay device. Those guys are highly experienced climbers with solid and proven partners. They have also done and seen enough to make an informed decision about something as fundamentally abhorrent as routinely releasing control of the brake strand of the rope.

A new or inexperienced climber very well may not understand the implications of following that advice and unfortunately it will not be them paying the price for it, it will be their even less experienced second.


patto


Feb 12, 2011, 6:18 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
A new or inexperienced climber very well may not understand the implications of following that advice and unfortunately it will not be them paying the price for it, it will be their even less experienced second.

So what are the implications of following that advice on a correctly configured plaquette device in autoblock mode?

What is this price you speak of?


bearbreeder


Feb 12, 2011, 6:43 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:

I think those are unwise endorsements for any belay device. Those guys are highly experienced climbers with solid and proven partners. They have also done and seen enough to make an informed decision about something as fundamentally abhorrent as routinely releasing control of the brake strand of the rope.

A new or inexperienced climber very well may not understand the implications of following that advice and unfortunately it will not be them paying the price for it, it will be their even less experienced second.

same with any other equipment ... the onus to learn how to use it properly is on the user, same as a gri gri, prussics, anchors, cams, nuts, and climbing itself ...

take away the top and bottom holes ... and what is the atc guide? ... just an atc xp ... as long as someone knows not to use it in autobloc without proper instruction and practice, i dont see a difference

we'd better add the american alpine institute to that list of unwise endorsements ....

In the late 90s, climbers and guides began to use autoblocking devices to belay a second. These devices allow one to belay two ropes simultaneously directly off the anchor. If the second falls, the anchor feels the weight, not the belayer. The best part of these devices were that they automatically locked up, immediately arresting the second's fall.

Today most climbers use one of two of these autoblocking devices that have the market cornered. The Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Reverso 3 should be considered standard equipment on every climber's rack.


wil gadd ...

I've used the ATC guide on frozen ropes of all diameters, all kinds of half/twin ropes, and a wide variety of single ropes. It's the best tool for a multi-pitch environment currently on the market.

tommy caldwell ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YUseORhhc

craig lubben's beginners book ... god rest his soul



and tons of others ... except for some RC.com folks naturally ...

as BD would say ...




(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 12, 2011, 6:44 AM)


Partner j_ung


Feb 12, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #139 of 151 (9437 views)
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Re: [vegastradguy] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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vegastradguy wrote:
the American Mountain Guides Association teaches as a standard of operation that a tube device in guide mode (autolock) is a hands-free device that you can walk way from without tying off.

I was taught this in my rock instructor course and when i balked at the idea, i was chided and more or less had my concerns ignored and/or dismissed.

there are few hard and fast rules in roped climbing, but there is one that i do not break- my brake hand does not come off the rope while belaying. ever.

I belay the second in guide mode almost exclusively. When I go hands-free, I do so only with a catastrophe knot in the brake, and I still check the tension every three or four seconds to make sure the climber's okay. It's still nice and fast, and I really see zero reason for me to not belay that way. Plus, I really like to say the word "guide." Guide, guide, guide, guide, guide, guide, guide, guide — whee!

John, when we climb together, if you prefer I not belay that way, I'm fine with it. I'm equally adept with a Munter on the anchor, the belay device on my harness, or if it comes to it, assuming a solid seat and hip belaying. No worries.

However, I'm certain I can give you whatever you need from a belay the way I do it. Need to lower back to a ledge? You suck Tongue, but no problem. Need to reverse a few moves quickly? I can give you enough slack immediately with zero rigging. Want to lower the whole pitch? Fun! Want to hang dog? I got your back. Anchor sucks and better to not weight it? Scary... and I won't be in guide mode, but okay, fine. Slurp pho till the wee hours of the morn? HELL YES.

The point is, everybody else, I can do everything with my guide-mode (woo!) belay device that some people here assume I can't (except for keeping my climber's weight off the anchor, in which case I won't be in guide (yes!) mode anyway). And I can do it quick enough that you won't even know the difference.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 12, 2011, 3:49 PM)


Partner j_ung


Feb 12, 2011, 3:51 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Guide!


vegastradguy


Feb 12, 2011, 6:18 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
the American Mountain Guides Association teaches as a standard of operation that a tube device in guide mode (autolock) is a hands-free device that you can walk way from without tying off.

I was taught this in my rock instructor course and when i balked at the idea, i was chided and more or less had my concerns ignored and/or dismissed.

there are few hard and fast rules in roped climbing, but there is one that i do not break- my brake hand does not come off the rope while belaying. ever.

I belay the second in guide mode almost exclusively. When I go hands-free, I do so only with a catastrophe knot in the brake, and I still check the tension every three or four seconds to make sure the climber's okay. It's still nice and fast, and I really see zero reason for me to not belay that way. Plus, I really like to say the word "guide." Guide, guide, guide, guide, guide, guide, guide, guide — whee!

you and i take the same approach- when i do use the guide in guide mode, my hand is on the brake and if i need to take it off, i tie off the brake strand and clip it to the anchor- this is perfectly reasonable and safe. its the not tying the brake strand off that bothers me- an unattended belay is a dangerous belay.

and shit, i was hoping for a foot belay from you, jay- i mean, if we're going to climb together, it might as well be exciting!


healyje


Feb 12, 2011, 10:54 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Aside form the absolute miracle any of us managed to climb at all before there were 'guides' making money off of climbing - they only set minimum 'safety' standards for those offering commercial services. I put very little stock in anything they say collectively other than as simply an expression of opinion and one aimed at commercial services and insurance concerns at that.

Now that alpine climbers might prefer 'guide mode' I get, but otherwise I think it's just another thing that will encourage the general demographic to become complacent, distracted, and further abdicate some of their responsibilities to a device. True, probably not as many drops as the with grigris, but only because most folks will eventually dog their way up one way or another and won't need to be lowered.

The #1 imperative in climbing today should be STFUAB and this is just another thing that encourages the exact opposite.


socalclimber


Feb 13, 2011, 12:33 AM
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Re: [healyje] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
Aside form the absolute miracle any of us managed to climb at all before there were 'guides' making money off of climbing - they only set minimum 'safety' standards for those offering commercial services. I put very little stock in anything they say collectively other than as simply an expression of opinion and one aimed at commercial services and insurance concerns at that.

Now that alpine climbers might prefer 'guide mode' I get, but otherwise I think it's just another thing that will encourage the general demographic to become complacent, distracted, and further abdicate some of their responsibilities to a device. True, probably not as many drops as the with grigris, but only because most folks will eventually dog their way up one way or another and won't need to be lowered.

The #1 imperative in climbing today should be STFUAB and this is just another thing that encourages the exact opposite.

I really have to agree with this. What worries me about these types of devices is that they add to the complexity of the systems as well. I really like "the simpler the better" attitude. All's it takes is a the last few pitches of a long route, your both tired, brain not working well, and your busy playing with something that requires extra attention.

I'm not saying they are bad devices, but they are attracting the wrong audience.


justroberto


Feb 13, 2011, 12:35 AM
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Re: [jt512] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I have had a HUGE problem with the Reverso and the ATC Guide in beginners hands since they came out. The people that are using them largely do not seem to understand the systems. It's just a "cool" shiny object.

And in the case of the ATC–Guide, a cool shiny object with the word "guide" in it. What more could a beginner want?

Jay
A grigri.


patto


Feb 13, 2011, 4:11 AM
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Re: [justroberto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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I'm a little confused by all this commentary saying that these devices are complex. Crazy

They take 10seconds to setup and another 2s to check if they are operating as intended. They are certainly not more complex or anymore likely to cause complacency than conventional tube devices.

Oh and tube devices cause complacency we should all go back to the hip belay. Wink

The notion that they are attracting the wrong audience and should be for guides is false and only inspired by the misnomer of the Black Diamond naming.


(This post was edited by patto on Feb 13, 2011, 4:12 AM)


billcoe_


Feb 13, 2011, 4:13 AM
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Re: [justroberto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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When I saw the first page a while ago, one post alone fully explained this and did so corectly. Yet this thred continued for 7 or 8 pages.

HERE'S WHAT YA NEED TO KNOW:
Caused by a Noob who needed practice. Better versions follow.

healyje wrote:
I'm doing so because the the specifics are largely irrelevant to the lesson the OP should be taking away (basic pilot error) and all the the rest seems to be confusing them by reinforcing their assumption the lack of a different device or technique was the problem. Bottom line is you should be able to lower someone all day with the configuration they were using, that they couldn't was the issue both in their judgment and skill level relative to that choice.


healyje wrote:
I don't belay off anchors ever and dislike redirecting most of the time. When I hear that's the norm then my guess is people are doing a lot of dogging and that's the real reason for belaying off the anchor.

But this incident has nothing to do with either belaying off the anchor or redirecting - this is strictly a case of someone belaying in a circumstance and situation where they shouldn't have been belaying. They most likely just brought the two rope strands together in front of them and gravity did the rest. From the sound of it both D and A were in over their heads and experience level for this incident to have occurred as it did.

See? Noobs!


shockabuku


Feb 13, 2011, 3:52 PM
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Re: [healyje] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
STFUAB

???

I'm just a n00b after all.Frown


healyje


Feb 13, 2011, 4:56 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Shut The F#ck Up And Belay


notapplicable


Feb 17, 2011, 5:38 AM
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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
A new or inexperienced climber very well may not understand the implications of following that advice and unfortunately it will not be them paying the price for it, it will be their even less experienced second.

So what are the implications of following that advice on a correctly configured plaquette device in autoblock mode?

What is this price you speak of?

Sorry I missed this earlier.

What I am talking about is the notion that belaying is, or can be made to be an activity that requires such a low level of attention as to be virtually "hands free". Belaying is THE single most important activity you perform while climbing, the severity and complexity of which a large number of people continually underestimate. For high profile and (presumably) respected climbers to make those type of statements about any belay device/method just does not sit well with me. That mentality bleeds over too quickly to all other belay related activities. Just look at how some people (a lot, actually) handle a Gri Gri.

There was an accident reported here 1-2 years ago where a relatively inexperienced second continued to climb while the belayer failed to take in an adequate amount of slack and the second ended up falling and hitting a ledge. While I put most of the blame on the climber, if your hands are not on the rope, you are not fully engaged in the act of safeguarding your partners life. That is not an ok standard to promote.

Thing is, my partners and I do stuff that I would NEVER recommend as normal or acceptable practices because we understand one anothers skill level and threshold for acceptable risk. All partners develop that dynamic naturally but just because you and your partner are comfortable going "hands free" with a belay device/method, does not mean it is a good standard for that device/method. Just like that stupid "Screw down so you don't screw up" meme caught on, so do other practices that make little to no sense. Like belaying "hands free", for example.


notapplicable


Feb 17, 2011, 5:42 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
Guide!


*Swoon*

You can guide me any day, Jay.


Rmsyll2


Feb 21, 2011, 2:19 PM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident [In reply to]
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Heard from A. today. D. was x-rayed with no fractures found, and is "ready to get back in the gym." A. has not stated the details of his hand injuries from rope burn, only that he is in "occupational therapy" and the "wounds are healing." He wants me to "pass on our hard earned lesson to others so they don't get it the hard way!" I too hope this topic is serving well.

.


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