Would it be safe to use high strength static line (New England KMIII) to make custom draws? Double figure eight or double fishermen's knot? Dyneema is pretty much static/low stretch material so what would be the difference between using static line and slings? And if not static line what about using excess climbing rope for draws?

Why?

Why? why? Why?

As an experiment. I have a bunch of KM111 static line, and I might consider buying a bunch of Black Diamond Positrons and making my own draws,

Why??? Why??? Why???

Why? Whywhywhy?

Well thanks for the info about the safety of it. Actually I thought of a perfect use for it. I know in Devil's Lake in Wisconsin there are a few routes where the TR anchors are far back from the cliff edge. I could use the static line to make a few really long draws to extend the anchor points over the edge. But as for making draws to use on a regular basis probably going to stick with some Black Diamonds.

A Quad?

Why the fuck would you do a dub shit thing like that for?

Would it be safe to use high strength static line (New England KMIII) to make custom draws? Double figure eight or double fishermen's knot? Dyneema is pretty much static/low stretch material so what would be the difference between using static line and slings? And if not static line what about using excess climbing rope for draws?

Yes, it would be safe. Similarly safe, only slightly more irritating for you, and far more entertaining for the crowds who gather to see you climb with your crazy rope-draws: soak your crazy rope-draws in itching powder. That'd be awesome!

Unless you consider that there may be more you care about than merely safety. LOL

Cheers!

GO

A quad is the standard top rope setup.

Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws.

Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws.

You never know what you run into...

This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors.

They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms.

As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed.

You never know what you run into...

This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors.

They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms.

As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed.

I tied a quad out of some 11 mm KMIII static rope and that thing looks bomber as hell. I mean for this thing to break on you while TRing god would have to have a personal vendetta with you. Two Rocklocks for the rope point and two Positron Lockers for the arms. I think I'd trust this more then two flimsy draws.

[image]http://ih2.redbubble.net/work.1073982.2.flat,550x550,075,f.you-can-lead-a-horse-to-water.jpg[/image]

Know what I mean?

Huh? I actually don't. Sorry I missed something.

I tied a quad out of some 11 mm KMIII static rope and that thing looks bomber as hell. I mean for this thing to break on you while TRing god would have to have a personal vendetta with you. Two Rocklocks for the rope point and two Positron Lockers for the arms. I think I'd trust this more then two flimsy draws.

Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least.

I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it.

I think you just did.

Did what?

Wow, I am slow today.
Good thing it's almost beer-time.

so let me get this straight ... a bunch of newbies (i assume they are new) want you to climb up and set up their anchor, yet dont want you to use 2 opposed draws, and want you to haul up a 11mm static rope with steel quicklinks ... all because they dont feel safe with the standard sport climbing anchor setup ...

sometimes "safety" runs amock ... i can understanding wanting a standard fig 8 setup with a sling ... but a 11mm quad with quicklinks ???

Isn't it always beer time in Germany?

You never know what you run into...

This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors.

They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms.

As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed.

I have never heard that idiom before or knew what it meant... Thank Google for the knowledge. Haha. Seriously though given the two options using two somewhat bomber quickdraws or using this badass looking nuke proof quad setup. I'd easily go with the better setup. I mean that is like asking if you'd choose a Honda over a Jaguar, given that they are both free.

Pshh I guess you could say that it is over kill. But I don't see it as a matter of strength but backup. There are a total of 4 connections the rock or impacts would have to sever in order for the anchor to fail vs. only two. I mean yeah you could look at the fact I am only using one rope and be like yeah why aren't you using two 11mm rope to climb with. It does matter if you have a two 11mm ropes or one 9mm rope if the anchor fails does it?

it is just a badass looking anchor.

I have never heard that idiom before or knew what it meant... Thank Google for the knowledge. Haha. Seriously though given the two options using two somewhat bomber quickdraws or using this badass looking nuke proof quad setup. I'd easily go with the better setup. I mean that is like asking if you'd choose a Honda over a Jaguar, given that they are both free.

Heh, kinda true.

"I believe it was Colonel Mustard, with the wrench, in the living room!"
"Nope! It was Jordan, in denmark, with the 11mm quad!"

Terrible analogy, although from your perspective, I can see why you'd say that.

It's more like you need to drive ten miles on perfect surface roads and a short stretch of highway, and your options are a tank or a Honda sedan.

Hmm... Jordan, you don't by chance drive a Hummer, do you?

GO