Hey, I want to go on holiday in the USA over the summer and get some climbing in. I'd ask at UKC, but I think you guys will know better ;). Mainly interested in trad but if theres DWS or Sport in the area thats a bonus some multipitch would be awesome too.

Not climbing too hard, have climbed up to E2 here but not up to that standard atm, and my girlfriend is coming along so definitely looking for somewhere with good low to mid grades.

Have looked at flights/camping for Yosemite but it's a pretty steep learning curve, and a lack of worthwhile lower level climbs. Would like to save it for a later trip maybe. Although I could be wrong.

Looked at gunks also, how much is it to climb there atm? is there a month pass or something? Where would you stay?

We're both 21ish and are too young to rent cars :(.

If you guys could suggest some places I'd be really grateful, never been to the states, only got my first plane (to Barcelona) a few months ago :).

fly to vancouver and rent a car, come up to squish

If it's a climbing holiday, I'd say go west, but if it's a holiday with some climbing, it would be hard to beat the Gunks, although the weather may be a little too hot for you. A lifetime of great routes from 5.2 to 5.14. One year pass for about 70 dollars each. Accessible by bus from new York City (at least to New Paltz), it's hard to imagine you'd be waiting long for a ride to the cliff if you made it obvious you are climbers, or just wait outside the climbing shop and ask for a ride. There's a hostel in town, but the camping options are less than desirable.

Have fun wherever you go, and post a trip report.

TE

You guys (people?) need to pull a Sungam. Without a car you're probably going to be relying on people to help you get around because public transportation near most climbing areas (in the US) sucks or is nonexistent.

Personally I'd go to Colorado. Fly in to Denver, take a shuttle to Boulder, you could probably rent bikes (or maybe take a taxi) to get to Eldo or the Flat Irons with plenty enough climbing for a couple of months. Plus conditions around there are probably as good as you're going to get for the summer. And lots of climbers around who might be able to hook you up for rides to more outlying areas.

Unfortunately there really isn't anyplace to camp in/around Boulder, esp. without a car.

Ahh right smallclimber, is the weather better for september or july compared to august then? Could we coach it up from NewYork and stay somewhere/camp out nearby? Yeah I think getting a car is practically not going to happen. Anyone wanna take a month off work? :P

We've looked at yosemite because we'd be able to stay there easily, but looking around can't find lots in the lower range climbs, (but I'm no expert).

I'm not aware that the Gunks has 5.14. Can you enlighten me?

My bad. Officially only 5.13d, I'd heard that Cody Sims had put up a 5.14, maybe it's still a project.

TE

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Have you looked into leasing a car for your stay?

Oh, and for those who may have been wondering - the guy said he climbs E2, which is roughly 5.10c

GO

Yeah perhaps I may be back to that level before I go, perhaps not. The e2 was last year on a pretty run out climb so not mega difficult but i've dropped a few grades due to not having much time to climb.

Yosemite I feel is best saved for another trip, with myself and the partner I take climbing harder grades. How much climbing is there at the lower levels? If there's not a lot decent below 5.9, alongside adjusting to a different style I imagine we'd find ourselves frustrated.

I actually want to ask a bit more about the Gunks, looks like a good place to climb for a month and we'd be able to crack on at whatever level and build up. Just wondering how easy it'd be to stay out there for a while without a car. I'd appreciate any info on this ;).

As per your weather comments I think we're looking at end of august to end of September, East or West.

Thanks so much for your replies.

We're both 21ish and are too young to rent cars :(.

The one thing I would suggest is that you give some serious thought (not just unilateral but include your GF) as to where on the all climbing to all sightseeing/touristing/urban culture place on the spectrum you want this tip to end up.

And if any of this non climbing stuff is a concern I would think that might tip the scales more towards the east where it least the urban stuff is more densely located and easier to access without a car.

But no matter where you end up I think you'll find that if you advertise your imminent arrival when the time comes you will likely end up with multiple offers for tourguides, hosts etc.

Weather-wise, I used to climb all summer in the Gunks. I didn't find it so terrible. But I'm not affected by the heat as much as some, so YMMV. At any rate, late August through late September, you'll probably be missing most of the hottest part of the year, and getting into some cooler days.

-ish? Is that 21 or not? Bad enough being stuck without a car, but do you realize that under 21 you cannot buy (or drink) booze, and in a college town like New Paltz, everybody gets carded (I'm over 40 and still get carded regularly in town). If you are 21 and she is 20 the next week, buying her booze is a crime, not just a slap in the wrist. The cops do not turn a blind eye to this.

Delaware Water Gap, but it's hardly a destination worth traveling across the globe for. DWG has some great climbs.TE

Agreed. Besides the trail from Mohican might be the busiest section of AT in the area, its not a short hike, and you end up on the wrong side of the river from the better part of the Gap.

The cheapest place with the most climbs may be the New River Gorge. You can walk to most of the climbs from the various campgrounds.