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notapplicable
Mar 17, 2013, 12:27 AM
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Keep them the fuck off of it.
Either take you're shoes off when you're not climbing or, at the very minimum, bring a piece of carpet with you and clean them well before you leave the ground. There is no excuse for smearing mud, sand and leaves on every hold for half the route.
1. Dirty shoes = reduced friction. You're hurting yourself.
2. Dirty holds = reduced friction. You're hurting me.
3. The dirt on you're shoes is an aggregate and polishes the holds much faster than just shoe rubber, which results in irreversible reductions in friction for everyone, FOREVER.
Most frustrating of all; this stupid behavior of tromping around in the dirt with you're shoes on isn't isolated to the nOObs. I know climbers with 20+ years on the rock who don't take their shoes off when they hit the ground. Sometimes not for the entire rest period between routes, regardless of whether they're bouldering, clipping bolts or plugging gear. And I've seen it at every crag I've visited.
I personally take my shoes off as soon as I hit the ground, I clean them on my pants before I leave the ground and clean them on my pants as I climb, as needed. Not everyone has to be that OCD but seriously, when I'm downclimbing and find muddy/sandy holds by surprise, holds that are only muddy/sandy because of you slack ass chumps, that shit pisses me off.
Get your shit together people.
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potreroed
Mar 17, 2013, 3:47 AM
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You can take my climbing shoes off me when I'm dead.
Until then I'll wear them as much as I want, whenever I want and wherever I want.
I do wipe them carefully, though, before stepping onto the rock.
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notapplicable
Mar 17, 2013, 4:05 AM
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potreroed wrote: Until then I'll wear them as much as I want, whenever I want and wherever I want.
We stopped to get food on the way home from a daytrip, only to realize that I didn't have any actual shoes with me. I wore my buddies Mythos (they were bigger and more comfy than my Anasazis) in to the restaurant. Nobody noticed, or at least didn't say anything. I kicked em of once at the table and then wore them back out again. Gotta do what ya gotta do sometimes.
potreroed wrote: I do wipe them carefully, though, before stepping onto the rock.
This is all I ask.
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sonso45
Mar 17, 2013, 3:53 PM
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You have an excellent point. The dirty shoes do grind down rock quicker than usual. I bring a mat to stand on and I should bring a cleaner for my shoes too. It's a shame when you notice popular routes becoming polished and more difficult, usually at the start of the route. Simple fixes like your suggestions are a great start.
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dagibbs
Mar 17, 2013, 4:06 PM
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I almost always wear long pants when climbing outside, and one of the reasons is so that I can wipe my shoes on my pants as I start a climb.
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notapplicable
Mar 18, 2013, 2:20 PM
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The two of you are pillars of the community.
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climber511
Mar 18, 2013, 5:25 PM
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"Your" rock?
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Kartessa
Mar 18, 2013, 7:01 PM
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climber511 wrote: "Your" rock?
And my rock
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donald949
Mar 18, 2013, 7:59 PM
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notapplicable wrote: The two of you are pillars of the community.
But if its cold I'll wear pants.
If its really cold I'll wear socks.
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Kartessa
Mar 19, 2013, 12:45 AM
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donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: The two of you are pillars of the community. I really prefer shorts when climbing. But if its cold I'll wear pants. If its really cold I'll wear socks.
I can just picture you in short shorts and tube socks.
Gonna bleach the eyes and the brain now
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notapplicable
Mar 19, 2013, 3:46 AM
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climber511 wrote: "Your" rock?
Correct. Keep your dirty ass shoes off of it.
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jt512
Mar 19, 2013, 3:51 AM
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potreroed wrote: You can take my climbing shoes off me when I'm dead. Until then I'll wear them as much as I want, whenever I want and wherever I want. I do wipe them carefully, though, before stepping onto the rock.
Would the seven anonymous fucktards who gave this post one star please come forward.
Jay
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notapplicable
Mar 19, 2013, 3:54 AM
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justroberto wrote: notapplicable wrote: ...but seriously, when I'm downclimbing and find muddy/sandy holds by surprise, holds that are only muddy/sandy because of you slack ass chumps, that shit pisses me off. So you didn't notice the mud on your way up, but you did on your way back down? 
Up one route, down another, in this particular case.
But honestly, this rant has been a long time coming. I've watched people stomp around in the dirt before getting on the wall for years. When I ask them about it, they just shrug and say "I've never noticed a difference". No shit. You're shoes are ALWAYS dirty. Dumbass.
Dedicated boulderers are probably the best about keeping their shoes clean. Tradwankers are the worst by a mile.
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notapplicable
Mar 19, 2013, 3:55 AM
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jt512 wrote: potreroed wrote: You can take my climbing shoes off me when I'm dead. Until then I'll wear them as much as I want, whenever I want and wherever I want. I do wipe them carefully, though, before stepping onto the rock. Would the seven anonymous fucktards who gave this post one star please come forward. Jay
Heh. It looks like that bolted on belay ledge made him a few new friends.
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jt512
Mar 19, 2013, 3:57 AM
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rgold wrote: Kartessa wrote: I can just picture you in short shorts and tube socks. Gonna bleach the eyes and the brain now Wait wait---no imagination needed. Just have to crank up the BITD machine:  Well, maybe not short-shorts...
Just when I was finally getting over that image of Curt climbing in pink tights that has haunted me for the past decade, you post this.
Thanks a lot.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 19, 2013, 4:02 AM)
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rgold
Mar 19, 2013, 4:08 AM
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Ha! i'm on a sartorial disaster roll. Knee socks 'n shorts from the mid-sixties...
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amarius
Mar 19, 2013, 11:00 AM
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Who needs socks, or shorts?
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TonyB3
Mar 19, 2013, 12:18 PM
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notapplicable wrote: jt512 wrote: potreroed wrote: You can take my climbing shoes off me when I'm dead. Until then I'll wear them as much as I want, whenever I want and wherever I want. I do wipe them carefully, though, before stepping onto the rock. Would the seven anonymous fucktards who gave this post one star please come forward. Jay Heh. It looks like that bolted on belay ledge made him a few new friends.
Add to that the constant pimping of his blog and the steady stream of poor to mediocre pictures he's got on the front page. I thought the site charged for advertising, how does Ed's crap bypass that?
All of the pics of his on the front page get five stars from the same three people almost immediately after they are posted, which appears to be enough votes to get them in the front page rotation. I bet all three are troll accounts of Ed's.
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donald949
Mar 19, 2013, 3:35 PM
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Kartessa wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: The two of you are pillars of the community. I really prefer shorts when climbing. But if its cold I'll wear pants. If its really cold I'll wear socks. I can just picture you in short shorts and tube socks. Gonna bleach the eyes and the brain now
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potreroed
Mar 19, 2013, 5:06 PM
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Interesting loop here, that's me on Woger's Woof in the photo by Craig McCudden
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notapplicable
Mar 20, 2013, 4:25 AM
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donald949 wrote: Kartessa wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: The two of you are pillars of the community. I really prefer shorts when climbing. But if its cold I'll wear pants. If its really cold I'll wear socks. I can just picture you in short shorts and tube socks. Gonna bleach the eyes and the brain now One more for ya...
So wrong, in so many ways. I'd try and count them all but I'm not sure numbers even go that high.
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curt
Mar 20, 2013, 5:39 AM
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Thanks. I thought that thing looked familiar.
Curt
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sungam
Mar 20, 2013, 4:23 PM
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I think I have some short shorts pictures of me here somewhere...
If you want, NA, I could try to find them.
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BillyCrook
Mar 27, 2013, 12:41 AM
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If you were sincere about not getting dirt on holds yourself, you'd stick clip some webbing to the first bolt, and hang in your harness from that while you change your shoes so your climbing shoes never touch the ground.
(This post was edited by BillyCrook on Mar 27, 2013, 12:41 AM)
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billcoe_
Mar 27, 2013, 1:28 AM
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RC is slipping. Page 2 and no one has captured the first post before he sobers up and deletes it. Here it is, and as an aside - I'll pray for rain so that the route is naturally cleaned and notapplicable can finally get a "clean" shot at sending his 5.7 project.
notapplicable wrote: Keep them the fuck off of it. Either take you're shoes off when you're not climbing or, at the very minimum, bring a piece of carpet with you and clean them well before you leave the ground. There is no excuse for smearing mud, sand and leaves on every hold for half the route. 1. Dirty shoes = reduced friction. You're hurting yourself. 2. Dirty holds = reduced friction. You're hurting me. 3. The dirt on you're shoes is an aggregate and polishes the holds much faster than just shoe rubber, which results in irreversible reductions in friction for everyone, FOREVER. Most frustrating of all; this stupid behavior of tromping around in the dirt with you're shoes on isn't isolated to the nOObs. I know climbers with 20+ years on the rock who don't take their shoes off when they hit the ground. Sometimes not for the entire rest period between routes, regardless of whether they're bouldering, clipping bolts or plugging gear. And I've seen it at every crag I've visited. I personally take my shoes off as soon as I hit the ground, I clean them on my pants before I leave the ground and clean them on my pants as I climb, as needed. Not everyone has to be that OCD but seriously, when I'm downclimbing and find muddy/sandy holds by surprise, holds that are only muddy/sandy because of you slack ass chumps, that shit pisses me off. Get your shit together people. |
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Kartessa
Mar 27, 2013, 4:14 AM
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NA at least has enough integrity not to delete his posts.
Regrets are for pussies.
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notapplicable
Mar 27, 2013, 5:16 AM
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billcoe_ wrote: RC is slipping. Page 2 and no one has captured the first post before he sobers up and deletes it. Here it is, and as an aside - I'll pray for rain so that the route is naturally cleaned and notapplicable can finally get a "clean" shot at sending his 5.7 project. notapplicable wrote: Keep them the fuck off of it. Either take you're shoes off when you're not climbing or, at the very minimum, bring a piece of carpet with you and clean them well before you leave the ground. There is no excuse for smearing mud, sand and leaves on every hold for half the route. 1. Dirty shoes = reduced friction. You're hurting yourself. 2. Dirty holds = reduced friction. You're hurting me. 3. The dirt on you're shoes is an aggregate and polishes the holds much faster than just shoe rubber, which results in irreversible reductions in friction for everyone, FOREVER. Most frustrating of all; this stupid behavior of tromping around in the dirt with you're shoes on isn't isolated to the nOObs. I know climbers with 20+ years on the rock who don't take their shoes off when they hit the ground. Sometimes not for the entire rest period between routes, regardless of whether they're bouldering, clipping bolts or plugging gear. And I've seen it at every crag I've visited. I personally take my shoes off as soon as I hit the ground, I clean them on my pants before I leave the ground and clean them on my pants as I climb, as needed. Not everyone has to be that OCD but seriously, when I'm downclimbing and find muddy/sandy holds by surprise, holds that are only muddy/sandy because of you slack ass chumps, that shit pisses me off. Get your shit together people.
Delete posts!?!? How dare you, sir. You have slandered my character. I challenge you!
*Slaps billcoe_ with a glove*
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notapplicable
Mar 27, 2013, 5:18 AM
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Kartessa wrote: NA at least has enough integrity not to delete his posts. Regrets are for pussies.
Intranet posts are serious business and I are serious cat.
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granite_grrl
Mar 27, 2013, 12:09 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: RC is slipping. Page 2 and no one has captured the first post before he sobers up and deletes it. Here it is, and as an aside - I'll pray for rain so that the route is naturally cleaned and notapplicable can finally get a "clean" shot at sending his 5.7 project.
Yeah, I think you missed the issue here.
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 4, 2013, 7:25 PM
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notapplicable wrote: Keep them the fuck off of it. Either take your shoes off when you're not climbing or, at the very minimum, bring a piece of carpet with you and clean them well before you leave the ground. There is no excuse for smearing mud, sand and leaves on every hold for half the route. 1. Dirty shoes = reduced friction. You're hurting yourself. 2. Dirty holds = reduced friction. You're hurting me. 3. The dirt on your shoes is an aggregate and polishes the holds much faster than just shoe rubber, which results in irreversible reductions in friction for everyone, FOREVER. Most frustrating of all; this stupid behavior of tromping around in the dirt with your shoes on isn't isolated to the nOObs. I know climbers with 20+ years on the rock who don't take their shoes off when they hit the ground. Sometimes not for the entire rest period between routes, regardless of whether they're bouldering, clipping bolts or plugging gear. And I've seen it at every crag I've visited. I personally take my shoes off as soon as I hit the ground, I clean them on my pants before I leave the ground and clean them on my pants as I climb, as needed. Not everyone has to be that OCD but seriously, when I'm downclimbing and find muddy/sandy holds by surprise, holds that are only muddy/sandy because of you slack ass chumps, that shit pisses me off. Get your shit together people.
I agree with this... but not the grammatical errors. They made me cringe. I'm sorry. I had to correct them.
On a more serious note, yeah, take off your shoes, people. It also takes away from the beautiful-ness of the actual rock. And it's kind of bad with what was already said.
(This post was edited by Ruff_Dog on Apr 4, 2013, 7:27 PM)
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notapplicable
Apr 4, 2013, 7:56 PM
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HaHa. Damn. I'm ususally pretty good about the whole your/you're thing. That was pretty blatant though.
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 4, 2013, 9:22 PM
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Sorry. I read it, and then re-read it and it kept bothering me. Stuff like that happens to the best of us. 
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Gdog42
Apr 20, 2013, 3:15 AM
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notapplicable wrote: Keep them the fuck off of it. Either take you're shoes off when you're not climbing or, at the very minimum, bring a piece of carpet with you and clean them well before you leave the ground. There is no excuse for smearing mud, sand and leaves on every hold for half the route. 1. Dirty shoes = reduced friction. You're hurting yourself. 2. Dirty holds = reduced friction. You're hurting me. 3. The dirt on you're shoes is an aggregate and polishes the holds much faster than just shoe rubber, which results in irreversible reductions in friction for everyone, FOREVER. Most frustrating of all; this stupid behavior of tromping around in the dirt with you're shoes on isn't isolated to the nOObs. I know climbers with 20+ years on the rock who don't take their shoes off when they hit the ground. Sometimes not for the entire rest period between routes, regardless of whether they're bouldering, clipping bolts or plugging gear. And I've seen it at every crag I've visited. I personally take my shoes off as soon as I hit the ground, I clean them on my pants before I leave the ground and clean them on my pants as I climb, as needed. Not everyone has to be that OCD but seriously, when I'm downclimbing and find muddy/sandy holds by surprise, holds that are only muddy/sandy because of you slack ass chumps, that shit pisses me off. Get your shit together people.
Thanks you for posting this.
Last fall I was at Red River KY for a weekend after it had rained there all day Friday. As a result, the ground around the crag we were at was pretty soft in the late morning. Previous climbers had left mud smeared on the some of the holds on the routes we were doing later in the day.
Earlier when it was still damp on the ground, I didn't want to take my shoes off between climbs because I didn't want to get muddy dirt on my feet and then into my shoes. But I was aware of how crap routes get when people climb them with, well, crap on their shoes. So instead I wiped all that mud off them before going up every time.
That's why I usually pack one of these and a small rag:
They take up next to no space in the pack and only cost a couple of bucks at Mart-Wal. That's not much to spend to preserve both my grip and the route. And holy shit they do a good job of making rubber shoe soles clean and grippy. If you don't want to take off your shoes, use zem!
(This post was edited by Gdog42 on Apr 20, 2013, 3:18 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Apr 20, 2013, 5:40 PM
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dagibbs wrote: I almost always wear long pants when climbing outside, and one of the reasons is so that I can wipe my shoes on my pants as I start a climb.
I don't care if I have long pants or not, I still wipe my shoes across my calves before (and often during) each climb. I figure if I'm getting dirty then it won't matter if my calves look the part, too.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 20, 2013, 5:44 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: RC is slipping. Page 2 and no one has captured the first post before he sobers up and deletes it. Here it is, and as an aside - I'll pray for rain so that the route is naturally cleaned and notapplicable can finally get a "clean" shot at sending his 5.7 project.
Yeah, I think you missed the whole Adatesman thing. NA was the one who actually replied to all of Aric's posts before Aric could delete them. I'm not worried about this.
Nor am I worried about him leading considering his penchant for soloing.
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dagibbs
Apr 20, 2013, 8:11 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: I almost always wear long pants when climbing outside, and one of the reasons is so that I can wipe my shoes on my pants as I start a climb. I don't care if I have long pants or not, I still wipe my shoes across my calves before (and often during) each climb. I figure if I'm getting dirty then it won't matter if my calves look the part, too.
Yeah, I do that if wearing shorts. I've definitely climbed with dirty calves -- but I do find that pants clean shoes better than naked calves.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 20, 2013, 8:21 PM
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dagibbs wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: I almost always wear long pants when climbing outside, and one of the reasons is so that I can wipe my shoes on my pants as I start a climb. I don't care if I have long pants or not, I still wipe my shoes across my calves before (and often during) each climb. I figure if I'm getting dirty then it won't matter if my calves look the part, too. Yeah, I do that if wearing shorts. I've definitely climbed with dirty calves -- but I do find that pants clean shoes better than naked calves.
good point. Honestly, I can't say one way or the other. not sure what that says about both my pants or my calves.
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dagibbs
Apr 20, 2013, 8:22 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: I almost always wear long pants when climbing outside, and one of the reasons is so that I can wipe my shoes on my pants as I start a climb. I don't care if I have long pants or not, I still wipe my shoes across my calves before (and often during) each climb. I figure if I'm getting dirty then it won't matter if my calves look the part, too. Yeah, I do that if wearing shorts. I've definitely climbed with dirty calves -- but I do find that pants clean shoes better than naked calves. good point. Honestly, I can't say one way or the other. not sure what that says about both my pants or my calves.
Maybe you have WAY hairier calves than I do.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 20, 2013, 8:33 PM
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dagibbs wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: I almost always wear long pants when climbing outside, and one of the reasons is so that I can wipe my shoes on my pants as I start a climb. I don't care if I have long pants or not, I still wipe my shoes across my calves before (and often during) each climb. I figure if I'm getting dirty then it won't matter if my calves look the part, too. Yeah, I do that if wearing shorts. I've definitely climbed with dirty calves -- but I do find that pants clean shoes better than naked calves. good point. Honestly, I can't say one way or the other. not sure what that says about both my pants or my calves. Maybe you have WAY hairier calves than I do. 
It's possible. I'm no gorilla, but I don't shave my legs either. now, on the other hand...
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Syd
Apr 20, 2013, 8:39 PM
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I would have thought wiping soles at the start of a route would have been an obvious thing to do, for better grip. Hadn't thought about wear on the rock ... but breaking holds has a bigger impact. I always use velcro shoes to make it easy to take 'em off after each route.
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Pedrolius
May 17, 2013, 5:58 AM
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Bouldering at Castle hill in muddy conditions our group met and climbed with some people, one of them had a pair of oversized Crocs to slip their feet and shoes into to walk around and figure out beta in the muck.
I know, some people find Crocs unappealing, but the same can be done with any old cheap rubber shoes... boots?
Just an idea... You know, if its really muddy..
HATE it when your belaying: "oh hey, your shoes are really muddy"
"oh its ok"
I stand corrected oh wise one. PENALTY SLACK!
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