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pbcowboy77
Jan 20, 2003, 5:01 AM
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So the gathering ended up better than I could ever hope. I think the total number of people that came out just for this was 50 to 55 people (it was hard to count).
The only incident we had happened was a picnic table broke somehow, not sure what happened . But other than that everything was great, from awsome partys at night (no bob-it ) to great climbing during the day, including my hardest trad lead to date (La Reina 5.9).
I wanted to thank everyone for comming and thank everyone for a great B-Day, I had so much fun. So I just got back and wanted to start this post, I'm gonna sleep in my own bed now. I'll write more after I recover from the 40 of King Cobra malt liquer I had Saturday night.
-Zac
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hangerlessbolt
Jan 20, 2003, 6:13 PM
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Good Monday all~
Well another gathering has come and gone. The thing with the gatherings for T and I is that it’s one of the very few times we get to see each other so we often find it difficult to balance between spending time with the group and having our alone time. So we apologize if we didn’t get to meet everyone or spend as much time with our friends as we would have liked.
Friday night T flew into Orange County. We stayed at my house for the night and decided to drive to Joshua Tree early Saturday morning.
We arrived in the Hemingway Buttress parking lot at 8:30. Adam and Karen pulled up and Brian was informed where we were.
T, Brian, and I then went to check out some routes on lower Dairy Queen wall.
I geared up and warmed up on Leap Year Flake 5.7. Brian and T followed. I left the anchors set up for the next route I would lead…the balancy slab route Leap Erikson 5.10a. Again, Brian and T followed. I broke down the anchors and we scrambled to the rap chains. Then it was off to what is now one of my favorite semi-easy fun routes…Get Right or Get Left 5.9. What a great climb. (Thanks Brian for showing us these routes.)
After that the three of us headed to Wonderland to do another great 5.9… High Strung.
I led, T followed, and Brian took pictures with three cameras.
Soon we parted ways with Brian. T and I headed to headstone to do SW Corner just as the sun was setting. What a gorgeous site.(and the sunset wasn’t bad either.)
We rapped off the back and headed to Indian Cove to setup camp. I cooked some pasta for dinner. After that, our romantic evening was interrupted slightly by Brian and Joseph. Apparently our presence was requested at the group campsite.
We went over and met several of the members that we know as friends and several that we met for the first time. We enjoy this part of the gatherings…being able to put names and faces together.
We stayed there for a few hours then headed back to camp.
Sunday morning, we slowly crept out of the tent. I made eggs, bacon, and country potatoes for breakfast. Then we cleaned up and packed up.
I looked over at Moosedog Tower and noticed that Art was leading one of my favorite climbs. So we drove over to watch. Also saw Adam (my brutha!) on an adjacent route.
Then we headed over to short wall. Worked on right V crack…so freaking slimy on the lower section. Soon determined that that was simply not a good warm-up. So I decided to lead the 5.7+ to the left of it. We topped out…met up with Jorge then headed over to Feudal Wall where most of the rest of the group was to say our good-byes.
We drove back to O.C. Had dinner then headed home. We looked at the pictures that we had taken…so fun…but sad in many ways. Then we spent the rest of the evening pampering ...
We got up this morning at 5 and I took her to the airport. This is always the hardest part of out trips. But we are truly blessed to be able to spend the time together that we do. I am looking to move to be with her at the end of March…wish us well.
*Peace*
~Hanger
[ This Message was edited by: hangerlessbolt on 2003-01-20 10:17 ]
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danyelle
Jan 20, 2003, 6:20 PM
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Well I gotta start by just saying that the gathering definately "Rocked!"...I am back to the chilly east coast, and missing everyone already. Recovering from the long journey home and off to work in just a few but I wanted to thank everyone who came for their beta, their encouragement and their overall generosity in helping make my first real gathering a memorable one. I had an absoulte blast and I can't wait to see all the marvelous photos!!!
Danyelle
[ This Message was edited by: danyelle on 2003-01-20 10:21 ]
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curt
Jan 20, 2003, 6:27 PM
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It was really great meeting all the RC.com folks in JT that I only knew by user IDs.
mreardon, alpnclmbr1 and I bouldered Saturday and I was thoroughly trashed by the end of the day.
Then on Sunday jt512 and climbsomething tied me into a rope and abused me further. Now I am REALLY sore. It was great fun though--the aches and pain are a small price to pay!
Curt
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mreardon
Jan 20, 2003, 7:08 PM
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Definitely a good time. My weekend started on Friday when I finally showed up at Indian Cove to see Adam (rrradam), Karen (i.karen) and Brian (toobig) all hanging out at the base of "Lascivious". Adam claimed that he had just gotten his project (but both Karen and Brian seemed to be flush with some extra cash) and they immediately peer-pressured me into jumping on the thing as a "warm-up" ("aren't you a celebrity", "Brotha' you solo harder stuff", "you may have pink streaks in your hair, but there's only room in this crowd for one girl"). Nothing like hopping on an 11c in jeans straight from the car! But I got back at them, besides finding a no hands rest (the only reason I managed to get that thing clean), I made sure the hole in my jeans was strategically placed to ensure proper eyestrain to those watching.
Done with that epic, we headed to the campsite to wait for everyone and spent the remaining light bouldering around (note to self, get bigger before spotting toobig again) and watching Adam try his best to set up a slackline (I'm still thinking you should have put it over the firepit). Usual rambling around the fire that evening with Matt and I practicing our mantel techniques on the bathroom roof, and it was great to finally put a face to most of the names (and a couple of cute bodies as well - yes I mean you Brian ).
Next morning, Brian and I stopped cuddling long enough to head out to the Country Kitchen for a proper breakfast (still not sure exactly what was in those potatos) and as Curt stated above, then met up with Curt and Dan and went bouldering to a couple places that Curt had been holding out. Perfect edges without the typical Josh grit allowed for a full day of pulling without the fingertip pain. And Curt is being polite, but his "old" ass definitely gave me a tune up at his favorite spots. I managed to shine a couple moments, but Curt was definitely the star on Saturday (I'm still recovering from one of those moves I tried to copy). And in a couple cases, it was only because I knew those two were great spotters that I managed to keep myself out of too much trouble (thanks again for being ready on that last problem, that was going to hurt!). I can't wait to see the photos when they come back from the lab.
Then took a quick look around for a few of the rc.com crew but had to head back to spend some time with the family and for some additional bouldering on Sunday near the house. To Matt, Curt, Jules, Brian, and of course Adam, Karen (you're stil the most fun to spot heheh) and the rest, I'm definitely looking forward to the next time! It was a great way to start the year - so same time next month....
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miker
Jan 20, 2003, 7:24 PM
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Excellent Weekend with excellent people.
I arrived Friday just after dark to drop off wood an dmy chair at site 10 before headin' over to my site( 42-:) ). Then a little meet and greet with to many people to remember that evening and shuffling back and forth from 10 to 42.
Saturday was a day for hanging out in Indian Cove. Climbed on Pixie with cloudbreak and ktwo, even toproped that Lascivious Conduct and I think I made all the moves, but not all in a row. Next time though.
Then I led Crank Queenie across the way on Varnished Wall. A definite JTree grade 5.8+, but lotsa fun.
Then over to the back of Fuedal to follow Ride(Eric) up Noriega Does Panama 5.10a or d depending on who you ask.
Then a snack and over to the boulder problem at the base of Pixie to trash my tips completely. Kudos to cloudbreak for linking up 'most' of it.
Then we setup a toprope over Alpentine right above site 43 and after dinner various folks thrashed about on it and a few of us even made the crux at the top, although I did get it sans headlight or moonlight(it was still hidden). Just don't step in the guano!
More drinking and trying to remember poeples names.
Sunday, pack it all up and head over to DQ wall to climb around with Jeff, Dave, Linda, Brock, Larry and others. Thanks for letting me climb with ya guys, good day all around.
Now I sit here back at work sorer than normal plotting the next climbing jaunt.
See ya'll soon and thanks to the birthday boy Zak for an excellent weekend!!!!!!!
Miker
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meadors
Jan 20, 2003, 7:24 PM
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photo tease please.
hanger, T, adam, karen, toobig -dang i missed it this year.
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hangerlessbolt
Jan 20, 2003, 7:37 PM
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No worries Andy…I’ll post some of ours tonight…they’re sitting patiently on my laptop. And we did miss ya bro!
Btw: I will say that I’m quite surprised that High Strung doesn’t see a lot more traffic than it does. What a great route.
And yet again, I missed meeting the one and only mreardon…which is okay…it’s not like I haven’t seen him a zillion freakin times on the videos I have at home.
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pranaguy
Jan 20, 2003, 8:30 PM
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So my first "offical" gathering, and it was a blast. I only wish I could have stayed for Sunday Had a great time reuniting with old friends and meeting new ones. I left for J-tree immediately after classes on Friday, and met up with Addiroids around 3. We did some nondescript climb, then decided to head over to Hemmingway Buttress for my first real trad lead...White Lightning Let me tell yah, it was awesome. The highlight of the weekend was was topping out on that with the sun setting, and the full moon glowing in the sunset. So after that, I took off to Indian Cove, and Paul left for Palm Springs. Apon arrival, I met Adam, Karen, Brian, and Mike Reardon just about to head of for some eats, so I joined them. (First time at the Thai Place, too ) Then we hung out around the fire, talked, swapped stories, mantled bathrooms, and slacklined till bed. Next morning we met at Intersection Rock and headed out to Dairy Queen wall with rrrAdam, Karen, Jorge, Dave, Art and a few others, where I did my 2nd real trad lead, Mr. Misty Kiss Did some other stuff around there, including a sweet route called Adams Family that I now regret not trying to lead. Finished up on some crazy hard 5.10b, that was really crumbly and the group consensus was that it was not 10b. Then we all left to go back to the site to rendezvous for dinner, where I (briefly) met Trevor and his fam.
I had to leave before dinner though, but what a time! Thanks all for a such a cool weekend.
-Matt
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ride
Jan 20, 2003, 9:03 PM
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Best Weekend of climbing I've had in a while!
It was so cool to finally meet all you guys.
I was really funny too, it seemed I was the guy certain people were "looking" for, hmmm I wonder why???
I *had* to give that shirt to rrrAdam, it just fit that situation *way* too well.
(if you weren't there, I'm sure you'll be seeing pictures soon)
Todd (Staticbuz, "the candyman") did his first lead (water moccasin 5.4)
We spent some time with mikereddig over at pixie and crank queenie, Todd followed, I kind of meandered around taking pictures. Then we headed over to Noriega Does Panama to see if I could still do it (I last did it about 10-12 years ago) whatever the rating on it is, it is still a damn scary lead.
The climb basically goes like this: Place foot here, Stand up, Pray. repeat.
I'm weird I guess, cause I kind of like it.
Sat. night was spent drinking a little too much beer and playing on the slack line ("Will he ever walk the line?") I made it all the way from table to table once. (I *WASN'T* running I swear. It was momentum. ), but damn that thing is addicting, I need to make one.
Sunday (for me at least) was mostly spent on La Reina (5.9) (didn't I win the "race" Zac?? ) La Reina is my hardest Trad lead too, since I've been "back" at least. I fell twice on it, sat there at the bottom for a while contemplating whether I should remain a climber, got pissed and did it on the third try. I'm STOKED!! At least I did it, next time I'll do it in one shot. ANd as I topped out I heard someone say it was 12:45. Oh $*17!!!! I thought, I need to give the dark lord of Mordor a ride to the Airport!!
So I hightailled back to the ground, said my goodbyes and headed out to ONT with Sauron.
All in all, it was great, I can't wait to do it again. You guys (and girls) are all great climbers and great people.
ed for spelling and I forgot something
[ This Message was edited by: ride on 2003-01-20 13:11 ]
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jareks
Jan 20, 2003, 10:21 PM
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This was my first gathering and it was awsome everybody was great and realy helpfull. I would really like to thank pbcowboy77 for organazing this and also for letting me climb with him, even after i chicken out on the double pitch climb. Everybody was awsome and I'm looking forward to see all of you somewere along my jurney to climb Climb On
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addiroids
Jan 21, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Well, sorry I missed it all folks. After doing The Exorcist in Hall of Horrors, Pranaguy and I went to White Lightening, then I jetted back to Palm Springs where I proceeded to go out with some friends.
After about 5 beers (and 3 hours out) I decided to drive home instead of riding with one of the sober friends (mistake #1). I accidently turned the wrong way on a one way (mistake #2) where a member of the porcine genus flipped on his lights instantly. I got scared and decided to floor it (mistake #3, 4, and 5) taking the porcine patrol on a little high speed chase through the streets of quite Palm Springs where it finally ended in a little creek when I couldn't really make the last turn in my gas-a-holic SUV. 10 cars had their lights on me as I stepped out and got the cold slap of steel on my wrists. My car is mostly okay, except for the bumper, but I might have Felony Evasion on my record unless I can come up with some bucks for a good lawyer.
So no climbing this weekend, but if I still have my liscense after all this crap, maybe I will make it to the Moab Gathering. Meanwhile I will be looking for partners to take me to Josh to either be a rope gun or belay slave for. And when Tahquitz warms up, gear schlepping will be gladly exchanged for a ride up there. I will let you all know more as the story unfolds.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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hangerlessbolt
Jan 21, 2003, 12:18 AM
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I’m sorry to hear that bro…damn…I wish you well.
Pleased to hear that no one was injured.
Take care,
Rob
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ride
Jan 21, 2003, 12:45 AM
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damn d00d... that sux...
are we going to see you on "Real TV" now Paul?
[ This Message was edited by: ride on 2003-01-20 16:46 ]
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jeepmonkey
Jan 21, 2003, 1:10 AM
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Damn Paul, that sucks. I was wondering where you were Sat and Sunday so I could redeem my self from the miserable showing of a couple of weeks ago. Hope all goes well.
I won't elaborate on the rousting of Robert and T. Suffice it to say we weren't sure if anyone was in the tent until we got a little chuckle out of T.
It was great to see people I hadn't seen in 6-12 months: T, Robert, Dominic, TooBig,Jay. It was equally fun to meet new people: Curt (I'm not the only one who wears Arcteryx clothing Adam), Todd (I promise to not move any of your posts on shoes as long as they are not in the general forum , "CandyMan",Hilary, Tim & his fiance and many others whose user names have slipped my memory.
I think this gathering once again showed that one of the great things about this site is the way it brings folks together.
Hope to make it to Moab and see some of you again.
Joseph
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pranaguy
Jan 21, 2003, 2:05 AM
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Ahhh! Paul! Who will teach me more of the ways of the Trad if you get thrown in the slammer??? Man, I wish I went with you guys so I coulda driven your drunken azz back to J- tree where the real party was. Anyways, sorry to hear about that little misadventure, I'm glad to hear you are okay. On a side note, the nondescript climb I referred to in my previous post was not the Exorcist. I arrived after that was done, but sure would have liked to climb it!
-Matt
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pirateclimber
Jan 21, 2003, 2:12 AM
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Hey, wow, what a weekend! That full moon was amazing and the weather couldn’t have been any better. Zac, great job on the trip and on ticking La Reina, wish I had seen it. Too many people to say “great to see you” to, suffice it to say, “Hey!”. Dairy Queen Wall was fun, never been on it before, and the Rib Co. quite filling. It was some good people watching on Saturday night. “Hello, my name is...!” Although I did miss Bop-it, darn you Adam and Karen for bringing that addictive thing out on New Years! Sunday had a nice little climb after which I decided I was too tired and switched to Coronas, ranch dip, and spewing beta at Feudal Wall. It was also pretty cool to see the founder of the site out there along with his hilariously animated little midget.
The one thing that truly impressed me about this trip and this group both past and present, is the amount of support and good-natured ribbing everyone gives each other. It’s great to see so many people getting their first leads and encouraged onto harder routes every time I go out. A far cry from what you’d think from solely reading the Forums.
See you all again. -Dave
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astrocrag
Jan 21, 2003, 2:41 AM
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I had a great time, at least at night partying with you all at the group site. Stayed up past midnight on Friday for the first time in years, so I wasn't feeling too sociable on Sat. pbcowboy, it was really nice to meet you, hope you enjoyed the birthday smoke (cigarette), you too Eric. And Eric, thanks for the beta on Reina. I was stoked to start my climbing on a 5.7 for all to see Sat. That was my first real 5.7 lead climb. Woo hoo! Thank's Matt, for the compliments.
And Paul, I feel so bad for you. I hope things work out. I ditched a cop one time, but I was lucky. They almost always catch you. I hope you learn from this experience, and gain something positive from it. Good luck.
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rogueclimber
Jan 21, 2003, 3:25 AM
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Damn, I knew I was forgetting somthing this weekend! It sounds like everyone had a great time! CHEERS TO IT!! When is the next shindig?? Late! Gabe
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climbsomething
Jan 21, 2003, 6:23 AM
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Gads, Paul! Evading the police = badness.
Anyhoo... I guess that answers my question, "Where the hell were you this weekend?!"
So, I wrote a really *keen* trip report throughout the weekend and while I was chillin' on the plane. But I won't post it till I get my pics back to properly illustrate it
ooh yes, it's a gonna be a big ole Russian novel Imagine if Dostoyevsky went to Josh and then wrote a TR about it... heh heh heh
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enigma
Jan 21, 2003, 6:39 AM
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Let's all be extra nice to Paul, he really needs our support now. He panicked and made a mistake,he can't go backwards.
We can all be his friends and help him go forward. He's a good guy,and he has his entire life ahead of him.
He'll come through, he's strong and intelligent and he has alot of friends.
I'm sure he's suffered enough this weekend.Lets try to be available if he wants to climb guys.
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pbjosh
Jan 21, 2003, 7:15 AM
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enigma wrote:
Quote:
( So sorry that happened Paul, trying to out drive the cops,who did you think you were,O.J.??? I guess you didn't contemplate the outcome prior to the race.!)
then in a later post:
Quote:
Let's all be extra nice to Paul, he really needs our support now.
Heh that's pretty damned funny.
josh
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mauriceb
Jan 21, 2003, 7:23 AM
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Glad to hear that everyone had a great time.
Although I wasn't fortunate enough to climb thru the weekend I did get to meet almost everyone Friday night around the campfire and say hello to a few familiar faces (Karen, adam, art, zac, etc).
Alan (betaflash) and I did 10 routes over the two days including Sail Away (cool) IT and Nurn'sRomp (hand cracks suck) and my first chimney, The Water Chute. Left some skin on that one.
Congrats to everyone who got there first trad lead (pranaguy) and hardest trad lead (pbcowboy). My first will be the hardest so I'll update when it happens.
See you all soon
maurice
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enigma
Jan 21, 2003, 7:36 AM
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Pbjosh,
While my comments may not be obviously similiar,they are not diametrically opposed either.
Friends often have mixed emotions especially at times where there was a run in with the law.
It is possible nonetheless to have convergent feelings intially. I sincerely believe Paul made a mistake. He panicked thereby he was not malicious,nor calculated in his leaving the scene.
Therefore, I truly hope we can give him support during this trying time. Hope you can understand and relate.
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rrrADAM
Jan 21, 2003, 2:54 PM
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Nice poem.
Back in MD, getting snowed on. But I have a nice sunburn from this weekend.
Thanx Zac for all the work setting this one up. Hope you liked your B-Day cake, which BTW was the ugliest thing ever made... Lady Bug cake, with 49 canldes on it. Truely tacky, but it fit. Somebody made the mistake of eating some, and had
black hands and teeth.
Mike... Got the slackline set up later that night, and improved on Sunday.
I was really stoked that Trevor (the Boss himself, and founder of RC.com) could show up with his wife Gretchin(sp?) and son Hunter. If it wans't for your inspiration 7 years ago, none of this would be happening. I owe some of my closest friends on top of meeting and/or climbing with over 170 users now nation wide to you and this site. Thanx Trev !!!
Happy to get Lascivious Conduct .11c finally on Friday, as I got shut down on it over New Years, and incurred some frequent flyer miles in the attempt. (see photo)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10026
Thanx for the shirt 'ride'... I'll have to try to get that pic posted over at b.com. Two punker points for you on that. And we gotta hit some shows this summer.
Did lots of climbs, and put many faces to names... Always a good thing, and look forward to hooking up with many again.
Stoked that Tim and his new fiance Cathorine could also come, as I climb with them here in MD on my temp job out here. He and I did a 2 pitch .10b Sunday morning that was just stellar.
Will post many pics sporadically.
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rrrADAM
Jan 21, 2003, 3:36 PM
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Best trip report award goes to 'staticbuz'...
http://www.journeybeyond.net/Jtree/jtree.html
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hangerlessbolt
Jan 21, 2003, 3:48 PM
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That rocks!!!
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pbcowboy77
Jan 21, 2003, 4:18 PM
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Dude Staticbuz, that was awsome. I agree adam, the best one yet.
Hey I need to ask everyone that was at Indian Cove on Sunday if they picked up a pair of shoes. Michelle (spclimb), my partner could not find her climbing shoes or sandels on Sunday when we were packing up. The climbing shoes were green 5.10's in womens size 6.5, and the sandels were brown leather. If anyone finds them Pleaselet me know. They were brand spanking new, and she is really bummed out.
I wanted to thank everyone again for comming out. I had no clue that the turn out would be so huge. And thanks for the great party on Saturday, with the ugly cake, Oh and I think my B-Day wish is comming true since I blew out 49 candels instead of just 25 ( can you belive my wish wasn't to send La Reina). Anyways can't tell you all what it is.
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artm
Jan 21, 2003, 4:26 PM
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Well I had a fun time this weekend....
got to hang out with two of my favorite climbers (Adam and Karen). Met a huge group of super cool people, all of you are great. Celebrated Zac's birthday (next one is Dave's aka pirateclimber in YOsemite june 23). I finally got to meet Nikegirl(wheeeeeeee) who's stealing our buddy Hangerless from us(we're about to put his face on a milk carton). And Trevor showed up in person to hand Zac a shirt, which doesn't fit cuz Zac is a giant.....for hosting the shin-dig.
thanks Zac!
wow this looks like one big run-on sentence!
[ This Message was edited by: artm on 2003-01-21 08:27 ]
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nikegirl
Jan 21, 2003, 5:01 PM
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As long as it's a CHOCOLATE milk carton....I'll take full responsibility for the dissapearance of hangerlessbolt ~~**~~
how can I not??
I've found my soul mate...and? HE'S A CLIMBER!! Double wammy!! I'm lucky!!
razz nikegirl...razz razz razz.
WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!
it's all good.
looking forward to all the adventures ahead.
~T
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oldskool
Jan 21, 2003, 6:18 PM
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enigma....im smoking pot and $#!&....ooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhh...im gonna die!!! omygod
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ride
Jan 21, 2003, 7:00 PM
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are you going to bogart that, oldskool??
[ This Message was edited by: ride on 2003-01-21 11:00 ]
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phlyfisher
Jan 21, 2003, 9:18 PM
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Well it was a long drive but it was fun. Decided about 4 pm on Friday to drive down to J-Tree with three friends. We left SLC around 9ish that nite and made it to Vegas around 3 am. Woke up at 7 and drove to J-Tree. Ran into nikegirl, hangerless, and toobig in the parking lot. Thank goodness or we would have never found anyone.
We got some good routes in.
Double start - Great pure crack climb. The first time I've ever rested on my gear.
Right Ski track- My favorite of the weekend. While belaying my buddy we had to wait for some guy to down climb the top section. After a short conversation and introduction he kept climbing only to the REALILZATION he was just talking to Chris Sharma. Kinda cool.
Exorcist- Sweet finger crack. Still need to refine my crack skills, but I'm getting better.
On monday since we woke up to rain, we decided to climb at Red Rocks on the way home. No more crack. Yeah! Sportin' it up on a couple of climbs. And then finish up at home at midnight.
Three days, 1400+ miles. Didn't stop moving till my head hit the pillow monday night. Just in time to make it to my job interview this morning.
It was nice to meet alot of new people. Didn't get to climb with anyone, but the parties at night were fun. I have some pictures that I'll post when I get a minute.
Climb on climba
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boneware
Jan 22, 2003, 2:49 AM
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Definatly a great weekend, sorry to see you all go. Monday did start kind of crappy, weather got better today though. I was the one who made the mistake of touching the cake, the black color (shoe polish?) is finally off my hand, still kind of burns though.
It was really nice to put faces with names, and i look forward to doing so again.
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climbingcowboy
Jan 22, 2003, 9:18 AM
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What a great trip! Got up there Friday afternoon and right away met a few guys not with site that wanted to do a new route right behind my campsite so i got to do that with them along with Laura (mistyofthemountian) then we tagged along with them and he showed me another new route over by Bilbo Buttress great fun 5.7/8 face route. Then cruised over to site ten that night it was cool to meet alot of you, although i cant quite remember everything that night
Saturday morning got to climb with Corey (coreyr), Jules (rock4jules), and Kelly (kmunderground) plus my brother Larry ,Brock, and Laura, did some routes on thye Feudal Wall a couple of 5.6 leads and TR'd a 10a that was really fun. Then we cruised over to Pixie wall and my brother led Whos First a really bad runout you might as well free solo the thing, then we TR'd that wall. Kelly led Silent Scream 10a and I got up it on TR Bit**in climb. Hung with Marc (clooudbreak) at night cool guy.
Sunday us and David and his wife Katy plus Mike Reddig went over to Dairy Queen wall and led some fun routes then set up TR that was alot of fun. Cant wait to the next time.
Geoff
Pics coming soon
[ This Message was edited by: climbingcowboy on 2003-01-22 01:23 ]
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pbcowboy77
Jan 22, 2003, 10:00 PM
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O.K. now that the gathering is over, I don't have a post to go back to all the time. This kinda sucks, I did'nt realize how much time that damn thing took up.
Well it was one of the best times I've had while climbing. Maybe I'll see you in Moab.
-Zac
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climbsomething
Jan 22, 2003, 10:27 PM
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I think today is the day I finally drag my lazy butt down to the store and drop off my pics
But one of my regrets from the trip? Not getting to meet nikegirl! We musta plain missed each other Saturday night now that I think about it, I thought I heard somebody say "T" at some point, but then, there were lots of people shouting lotsa things. end result though, no T for me.
but we did PM later, and I know her real name now! hehe, that was gonna be the first thing I was gonna ask
Next time!!
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pbcowboy77
Jan 22, 2003, 11:59 PM
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Oh ya, enigma, you said "that look's so easy" after I lead La Reina, and you were bummed out thatI didn't set a top rope for you. I just have to say that if you had trouble doing the walk off from La Reina, there is no F%#king way you could have done it. That was the hardest thing I've lead so far.
Just thought of that now and wanted to bring it up.
-Zac
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coreyr
Jan 23, 2003, 12:33 AM
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Just wanted to say I had a great time. Wish I was still in j-tree. It's been snowing ever since I got back home, yuk!
Wow, I met some really great people at this gathering. Thanks everyone! See everyone again soon. Corey
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nikegirl
Jan 23, 2003, 4:58 AM
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I keep on reading the TR...
trying to place faces...
On sunday, over on fuedal wall...there was a pile of peeps.
I have to say? I'm bummed that people didn't say hi, and state their usernames. But, I was just as guilty.
Not being around as the intro's we're done in the eves, both nights...Our fault for not being there.
Anyway...
I wish I meet'd and greet'd more of the crew.
Hill? that just bites!!!
hrmf.
amazing weather...my back is itchy now, from my sun burn...hehe
loved every route we did. So good to see our familiar faces, from Utah...and Rumney, and last years Josh Gathering.
I gave Adam a "WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE" as it echoed in the air.
Full Moon was amazing
Sunset on headstone: speechless
too short as usual these trips.
I gots me a tigger
thanks eeyore
~T
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enigma
Jan 23, 2003, 6:07 AM
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pbCowboy-I heard La Reina was soft,more like a 5.8.by your friend that day. I'm sure its a hard lead,but to follow should be no problem. Wanna put some money on it? I admit walk-offs are not my strong suit,but I've followed alot of 5.9 and 5.10's with no problem. Even that invisibility lessons,cake walk,pinched rib,spinchter quits,chalk up another one,pa woolsey,noriega something,and numerous others.(this month-Zac)
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enigma
Jan 23, 2003, 6:10 AM
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P.S. You did a great job leading it though seemed like you got up there in what,10minutes. No I won't lead it yet.
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pbjosh
Jan 23, 2003, 6:53 AM
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Enigma et al,
I wouldn't call La Reina soft - it's pretty strenuous for 5.9, comparable to Damper or Trashman Roof or the like.
josh
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enigma
Jan 23, 2003, 7:46 AM
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You said it was like invisibility lessons,right on this thread, pbjosh,now you changed your mind.
Neverthess,it was pbcowboys friend who told me,who has done it,so I'll have to wait and see.
Pbcowboy and Ride,it was still a good lead,not trying to minimize your accomplishments,sorry if I sounded that way.
O.K. Everyone happy now.
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pbcowboy77
Jan 23, 2003, 8:25 AM
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I think that was one of the hardest 5.9's I've ever done, it started out as a slightly overhanging thin hand crack, then to a large kinda flaring handcrack. Had one good rest, and the rest of the timeyou just had to pull through as fast as you can. That Bi7ch didn't let up.
And yes I'll put a bank roll on the fact you couldn't do it clean the first time.
Hell, I got got 20 that say's you can't make the first 3 moves without a fall. The hell with 20 I'll put a C note on it, and when I bet I'm for real.
-Zac
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rrrADAM
Jan 23, 2003, 2:20 PM
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Hey all... This is a "fun Trip Report" thread. Let's keep it that way, eh ???
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pbcowboy77
Jan 23, 2003, 6:35 PM
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Sorry Adam your right. I just had about a page writen but got rid of it beacuse the flame war is'nt worth it.
Sorry everyone that had to read all that crap
-Zac
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tradguy
Jan 23, 2003, 7:01 PM
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For what it's worth, La Reina is quite hard. *WAY* harder than Touch and Go or Pope's Crack, which are both solid 5.9 crack climbs, and plenty harder even than Taxman, which is 10a. Face climbs like Noriega and Pinched Rib don't even compare. Mighty impressive lead, Zac. I suspect that thinner hands might make the jams on the lower bit a little easier, since I couldn't quite fit mine too well in that part. Also, climbing without the post-hangover/dehydration headache might have helped a bit too.
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rrrADAM
Jan 23, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Hmmm... I'll have to do that one. I thought Touch & Go was easy, whereas I still find Pope's Crack to be akward, thus hard for 5.9.
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murf
Jan 23, 2003, 7:18 PM
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Oh please! La Reina is just an awkward grunt IMHO. It doesn't tip the scales over 5.9, and it's not very long. If it's been on your list and you enjoyed it, more power to you. However, it's not harder than Taxman or Touch and Go. Pope's Crack should be renamed Pope's Face Route, and have some stars removed due to the deception in the route name.
Murf
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tim
Jan 23, 2003, 7:30 PM
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I wish I had the presence of mind to get on La Reina under cover of night, and make up my mind. It sure *looked* like a grunt, it sounded like the 1st pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy, which I consider THE MOST awkward and strenuous 5.9 I have ever climbed, PERIOD. Anyways, it was a milestone for Zac, whether the bitter malcontents agree or not.
Zac did a great job leading it. Anyone who is talking smack, yet hasn't led it... don't. That's weak and it only makes you look weak.
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rocks4jules
Jan 23, 2003, 7:39 PM
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Hi everyone!!! I had a blast! The sunshine was the best. Like Corey said, it has been snowing/raining ever since we got back. I started my new job when I got back so I haven't been able to respond until today. I want to thank Zac and Adam for getting this put together -- great job guys! I'm sure much thanks to Karen too. Behind every good plan, there is a woman involved somewhere. Thanks for the time on the slack line. I have to put one up in my yard! Joshua tree is definitely an annual MUST for me now. See you all soon.
Jules
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ride
Jan 23, 2003, 7:40 PM
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well said Tim.
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artm
Jan 23, 2003, 7:47 PM
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Tim
after leading the first pitch of Central Pillar I dry heaved for about a minute......
I then drank all my water so we would have an excuse to bail after doing the second pitch
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pbcowboy77
Jan 23, 2003, 7:52 PM
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I think Adam and I need to do this again next January what do you all think?
-Zac
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enigma
Jan 23, 2003, 9:26 PM
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Pbcowboy; just for the record was the one who intiated this discussion on La Reina saying "no f8#king way I could do it, on top rope", so Tim, He started.
P.S. Still game.
Next January still far away,but could be fun.
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ride
Jan 24, 2003, 2:14 AM
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enigma, TR doesn't count.
If we happen to find ourselves out there sometime before then, I'd go so far as to set the pro FOR you. besides, you should lead more anyway.
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pbcowboy77
Jan 24, 2003, 2:21 AM
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I can't help it
" tim,he started it, he pulled my hair, he's mean, MOMMY"
-Zac
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tradguy
Jan 24, 2003, 3:15 PM
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Ahem...so suffice it to say that different cracks are easier or harder for different people depending upon hand size, strength, weight, and numerous other factors, so having an argument over which 5.9 crack is easier or harder than any other is futile.
Ok, now that weve all got that out of our system, heres my lame attempt at a Trip Report from my weekend...(photos may follow at some point if I ever get my slide scanner running).
I arrived very late Thursday night with a fellow climber (Colleen) from my local gym in tow. Getting in around 2 am, we crashed for the night at Wally Bakers future climbing ranch in Joshua Tree. After a brief stop at the Food 4 Less in Yucca Valley for water and groceries and a visit to Dennys for the $2.99 Grand Slam, we headed into the park to try to find something to climb. My intent was to get on Dappled Mare, but the parking lot was full when we got there, and I could already see 2 parties on the route, and at least 1 more at the base. After wandering around the park for a while, we decided to just climb at Trash Can rock, because it was easy to access and Id never climbed on it before. We pretty much went down the line climbing routes on the west side 5.8, 5.4, 5.10, 5.6, 5.7, 5.10, 5.6 and then packed up and headed to over to Indian Cove to meet up with the group. I met lots of new people, stayed up late staring at the fire, and generally had a great time.
Saturday arrived too early to the sounds of ambitious Boy Scouts from our neighboring group campsite. After slaving over breakfast (muffins, bagels, and bananas) Colleen and I headed over to Moosedog Tower, and climbed the 3-pitch 5.6 called Tranquility. Already an outstanding route through the first two pitches, taking the exposed, run-out final 5.6 pitch of Bitch In Heat to the summit was a blast, and highly recommended. After returning to the car, we chatted politely with the campers who had been watching us all morning, and ended up having lunch with them (they generously donated their food!). After regaining some motivation, we wandered to the end of the loop, and found some new, unpublished routes (with the help of a mystery local) on what seems to be the north slab face of Jailhouse Rock. I climbed 5 routes on this slab, which were all likely 5.7-5.9, plus the 5.2 trad line up the dike. As the sun was setting, we headed back to Group site 10, but finding it empty, headed to Joshua Tree for showers at Coyote Corner and dinner at the Crossroads Caf. After dinner, we enjoyed another raucous night of partying, meeting new people, telling stories, slack lining, and hanging out in front of the fire, with plenty of beer down the hatch.
Sunday morning greeted me far too early, again with the aid of the boy scouts and their SUV Jamboree (everyone who saw it knows what Im talking about). After struggling through breakfast and breaking down camp, we made our way to Feudal Wall with Zac and the crew, where I managed to sprawl my way up Duchess (5.6), The Castrum (10a), Crown Jewels (5.7), and Noriega Does Panama (10a), before getting beaten up on La Reina (5.9) and the final moves of Monaco (11b). After a visit to Enchadas in 29 Palms for the biggest damn burrito ever, Colleen and I returned to Indian Cove for another beautiful night camping out with John, Dirk, and Alison, and burning all the remaining wood from the previous nights while telling countless pirate jokes. (Whats a pirates favorite engine part? The caaaarrrburetor.) It was a good thing I decided to set my tent up, though, because sometime in the wee hours of the morning, rain moved in on us.
Monday, then, started kind of slow. I got a lot more sleep and was feeling better than previous mornings, but the rain and raw hands from 3 days of rough granite made me waiver a bit from my climbing zeal. I had made plans to meet up with someone at 9 am at Intersection Rock, though, so after breaking down camp, we cruised up into the park. After waiting in the intermittent sprinkles for 45 minutes, whoever it was I was supposed to be climbing with never showed up, so Colleen and I decided to wander off to Keys View as a way to pass some time and pray for the rock to dry out. For those who havent been there, Keys View is a spectacular point that looks out over the valley to the south of the park, with Mt. San Jacinto, Palm Springs, Indio, and the Salton Sea all visible. Well worth the 6-mile drive, if youre waiting for routes to dry. On our way back, we stopped at Cap Rock, where we climbed Catch a Falling Star (wonderful 5.8 ), and then wandered over to John Yablonski Rock, where we did a bunch of short routes 5.6 and 5.5 finger cracks, two 5.7 friction slabs, a 5.8 bolted face, and a really nice 5.7 hand crack. I finished the day with a quick run up Event Horizon, a fun 10b back on the NE arete of Cap Rock, before we loaded back in the car, and bolted for LAX to catch our red-eye home.
All in all, it was a fabulous escape from cold Indiana managing 30 pitch of climbing in 4 days. Solid effort, and worth every penny of the airfare it took to get there. I enjoyed meeting everyone, and hope to do it again sometime.
Take care all, and hopefully well meet again on the rock again soon.
[ This Message was edited by: tradguy on 2003-01-24 07:17 ]
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climbsomething
Jan 27, 2003, 11:05 PM
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Sport baby Hillary had a blast at the Josh gathering, merrily bleeding on her tape mitts and pulling gym moves out of cracks as she went to the other side into trad paradise.
Saturday started off with a stop on the Hidden Valley Campground parking lot, where Jay and I met up with rc'ers Adam and Karen, Art, Jorge, Matt, and Richard. Then it was off to Hall of Horrors, where Jay, Richard and I blasted up the sweet Nurn's Romp (5.8 ) to warm up.
Next Jay scored a bumpy but proud ascent of Exorcist (5.10a)- choice Jay-isms from the lead include, "Nice soft catch onto that green Alien" and "that Brassie's pretty good." (yeah, it's thin). Richard and I were quite content to follow instead. I got it clean first go- the boys tell me this is a pretty cool thing! (/spray )
The search for another challenging but enjoyable climb led us to Grit Roof (5.10c).Jay fighting the good fight on Grit Roof
But this climb was in a mood that day. Long story short, the weight of the second dislodged a couple pieces and knocked them sideways deep into the crack, taking the rope with them.
Hmm, a bit of a pickle.
But, brevity is the soul of wit, so let's just say, all the gear came home- intact or at least repairable!
Campfire action that night saw lots of friendly faces, plentiful libations, and me on a slackline for the first time (rated A1 for the Art safety net) Weeeee! Art, come back!
On Sunday, Jay and I hooked up with Curt and set up shop at Castle Rock. The slog from the parking spot to the back of campsite #3 was horrendous, but we were rewarded with challenging routes up the grippy slabs. After warming up on Diagnostics (5.6 a la Joshua Tree) we took turns on Count Dracula (5.10d),a holdless wonder. This is one of the hardest climbs I've ever done, regardless of rating. Unnngh *grunt*
But did things ease up after that? Hardly. Jay thought it would be cool to "try that 11c crack." Well, turns out Bela Lugosi shot up in rating since the publication of the fat Vogel guide. The truly brutal face start before the crack must be what garnered the 5.12a rating in the current classics Vogel guide. Might I reiterate that tiny fingers own in pin scars? So does general coolness (a shout out to Curt )
Curt was content to quit while he was ahead with the Bela Lugosi toprope flash, but Jay was yet interested in That Old Soft Shoe (5.10d), which looked "entirely leadable." However, time only goes in one direction, so Curt set a toprope for Jay and I. After Count Dracula and Bela Lugosi, Soft Shoe was a veritable jug haul (it had, oh, at least 5 holds!).
The dearth of holds anywhere made friction indispensable. Luckily, Castle Rock was coated with a layer of friction on that crisp day.
What could have made that day better than a beautiful transition into night? I had never seen so much pink and purple in the sky before, not even in Arizona. Sunsets never get old.Purty!
Monday dawned grey and damp. Still hopeful, Jay and I took a stab at the characteristically balmier Indian Cove anyway, but it wasn't any more inviting there. So, we cut our losses and decided to take in a few hours at Jay's gym to satisfy our climbing needs. This was almost worthy of its own trip report! Heh heh!
I joined the ranks of climbers whose gear has been groped by airport security (an oval biner no less, not even my nut tool of doom). And I got only one gobie. But what a swell trip! Climbing rock, plastic, and hotel signage; plus the people, and of course, beer
Very juggy!
I have a truckload of additional pictures, gleaned from my 7, yes, seven rolls of film! Maybe I'll scan them all someday... yikes.
*charges Nalgene bottle and raises to toast* To the gathering! [to the gathering!]
And many more!
[ This Message was edited by: climbsomething on 2003-01-27 15:24 ]
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pbjosh
Jan 27, 2003, 11:15 PM
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I never said La Reina was like Invisibility Lessons, not even in this thread.
However I think it's no harder. 5.9 yes, but that's all. Just go fast and it's no big deal.
As an aside, who is that leading Grit Roof? I think Grit Roof is pretty damned hard to be honest!
josh
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climbsomething
Jan 27, 2003, 11:20 PM
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I think I broke the page with my attempts at fab'uhluss HTMLing. Oops
Josh, that's Jay (jt512). And we have sources who say that Grit Roof is more like an 11+ since a key hold broke at the lip.
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artm
Jan 27, 2003, 11:22 PM
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Nice trip report Hil, that looks like Jay on Grit Roof.
Local consensus is that grit roof is no longer 10c but somewhere around 11a/b
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rocks4jules
Jan 27, 2003, 11:34 PM
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Enigma, I am going to say this for your own good (constructive criticism). I am also NOT sticking up for anyone in particular. However, after reading the replies regarding your climbing ability, I saw first hand that you may want to challenge a climb once you learn to stay "on-route." When you top rope, you should always try to stay in line with the route, and from what I saw, you were all over the rocks. I enjoyed climbing with you, but really, anyone could do what you do. Keep practicing. Bye, and hopefully, no hard feelings.
Jules
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jt512
Jan 27, 2003, 11:53 PM
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Great trip report, Hillary!
Grit Roof might be 5.11 to lead, but it's 5.12 to get your gear out of afterward. If your second falls or hangs before turning the roof, the rope flips the cams onto their sides and traps the rope. This is at least a minor epic. Last weekend I was told that there used to be a pipe in the crack that your rope would run over to prevent it from flipping the cams; it's no longer there. Judicious clipping of double ropes would also prevent the problem.
Hillary, you should add that sexy shot of you flagging in the gym to your trip report!
-Jay
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enigma
Jan 27, 2003, 11:59 PM
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Well,its not like there's colored tape in the gym either, Jules.
There was a remark about invisibility lessons pbjosh,somewhere here unless its been deleted.
Now the posts are so trite, its not even worth me even searching for it.
What's the difference anyway, its not like we're Sharma,mellow out and be like Peter*.
Go out and climb,inside of being online.
*Croft of course.
Hillary that was a great post,great photos' hope you all come back now.!!!!
[ This Message was edited by: enigma on 2003-01-27 16:02 ]
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rocks4jules
Jan 28, 2003, 12:03 AM
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Obviously, Enigma, you are not able to take constructive criticism. Sorry. I thought maybe since you were close to my age, and mature, that you might want to know what I observed. Therefore, just keep on doing what your doing. Having fun is the most important, so if you are having fun, that is good enough.
Jules
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enigma
Jan 28, 2003, 12:10 AM
Post #68 of 78
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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Jules, P.M me if you wish ,this is not fair to the people who actually want to post about the j.tree gathering.
Furthermore if it was truly for any constructive reason,it wouldn't have that conscending tone,or be in this format.
I usually do have fun climbing,thank you.
P.S. There is something called TRAVERSE
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climbsomething
Jan 28, 2003, 12:13 AM
Post #69 of 78
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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Jay, you mean this one?
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rocks4jules
Jan 28, 2003, 12:19 AM
Post #70 of 78
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 287
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Wow. J-tree was great, the people were great, the sunshine was great, and I wish I were there again. Oh - and Enigma, I don't know your background, and where you are originally from, but "Sorry" usually means that someone is asking you to forgive them for causing your feelings to be offended. Since I plan to keep climbing, and I am sure you do to, we will definitely run into each other again -- so publically (no PM's), I want there to be no hard feelings. That's all. Bye, and have fun climbing.
Jules.
P.S. If it weren't 35 degrees out here in Coeurd'Alene, I might be out climbing - - instead of being ONLINE
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pbjosh
Jan 28, 2003, 12:27 AM
Post #71 of 78
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
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I've heard 11a for new and improved "no thank god flake" version of Grit Roof from several people.
I've also heard (from Todd Gordon and Tucker Tech) that 10c is still fair but it's just burlier 10c. Heh, I like that answer
At some point you have to take a rest day you know. I'd be outside today instead of online but I've climbed for 9 of the past 10 days and my body can't take it anymore
josh
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tim
Jan 28, 2003, 1:14 AM
Post #72 of 78
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
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Has Enigma been contributing to this thread still? I dunno, all I see is some thick lines.
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rrrADAM
Jan 31, 2003, 1:18 PM
Post #73 of 78
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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Tim's putting up some "pro quality" pics, especially the one of Art pulling the roof...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10802
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10805
He's got more to come, so stay tuned.
I seem to have the "chineese flu", you know dragin ass , as I haven't even scanned any of mine yet, and I have some GREAT pics of Jorge (jorgle) leading.
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mistyofthemountain
Feb 3, 2003, 12:44 PM
Post #74 of 78
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 35
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Definately a good time. I would for sure be there next year if you guys do it again. Misty of the Mountain
[ This Message was edited by: mistyofthemountain on 2003-02-04 02:43 ]
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rrrADAM
Feb 3, 2003, 12:56 PM
Post #75 of 78
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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Pics are in...
Zac (Birthday Boy) with his ugly "flaming lady bug cake":
Saturday night at the Rib Co. (even Trevor's in this one):
Climbing pics...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10916
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10915
More to come.
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rrrADAM
Feb 5, 2003, 1:15 PM
Post #76 of 78
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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Four more climbing pics...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?PhotoID=10995&Action=Show
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?PhotoID=10994&Action=Show
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?PhotoID=10996&Action=Show
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?PhotoID=10997&Action=Show
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rrrADAM
Feb 7, 2003, 2:23 PM
Post #77 of 78
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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Uno mas a dio...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?PhotoID=11069&Action=Show
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rrrADAM
Feb 11, 2003, 2:43 PM
Post #78 of 78
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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One more...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?PhotoID=10834&Action=Show
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