Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
asdf
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


deleted
Deleted

Feb 21, 2003, 2:31 AM
Post #1 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

asdf
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

import_temporary


onelung


Feb 21, 2003, 2:43 AM
Post #2 of 34 (4643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 8, 2002
Posts: 436

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yea that is pretty awesome, Dont worry about the post, Catra posted this
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26148&highlight=
I swear before Ammon even got off the rock, I dunno.
I look forward to hearing it from The HardMan himself.
Its all good,
Bill


moabbeth


Feb 21, 2003, 3:11 AM
Post #3 of 34 (4643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Great job Am!!! Congrats.


duracellbunny


Feb 21, 2003, 3:34 AM
Post #4 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 255

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Great job!!!!! :D :D


wv5ten


Feb 21, 2003, 3:43 AM
Post #5 of 34 (4643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 671

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

congrats


catra


Feb 21, 2003, 4:44 AM
Post #6 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 84

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a secret..... Those two are up to something else this weekend.

I can't say what. It's top secret....HE HE HE

Stay tuned.

Catra McNeely


onelung


Feb 21, 2003, 4:50 AM
Post #7 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 8, 2002
Posts: 436

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thats cool, Damn and I gotta work! Well its not really work but I only move from sealevel to <150Ft Sea level> Not much compared to what the Yosemite Hardman may be up to!
Ho'oMau, And Thanks for the news Catra,
Bill


Partner rrrADAM


Feb 21, 2003, 12:29 PM
Post #8 of 34 (4643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ammon is our humble site hardman, he does not ring the "look at me" bell relentlessly.

Is this secret near a gambling town ??? ;)


twrock


Feb 21, 2003, 1:38 PM
Post #9 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 223

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow! I'm looking forward to "the rest of the story."
And I agree, Adam. Ammon is a class act.


elcapbuzz


Feb 21, 2003, 11:14 PM
Post #10 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Haa haa ha, No Adam.... that's a different secret. The Secret Cave:

http://rocknrun.net/pandemonium/cave.html

Well, I'm sure Catra didn't want to spill the beans before we "actually" did it.... BUT, Brian and I are going back to Zion this weekend.

This time we have something else up our sleeves.

I'll tell you all about it when I get back.

Cheers, Ammon


flamer


Feb 21, 2003, 11:19 PM
Post #11 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sweet mother of god, that's fast!!!! That had to be like the 4th ascent? I'm not sure That a lot of the people looking at this really know just how bad ass it is! Ammon you are a true speed demon, especially to have done this on a truly hard aid testpiece such as Latitudes. Of course you also had one hell of a partner! Brian Mccray has got to be one of the most unknown aid MASTERS out there...
Good stuff fella's...
josh


elcapbuzz


Feb 21, 2003, 11:30 PM
Post #12 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I agree Josh. Brian is the BEST wall partner I've ever had the honor to rope up with.

It's mind boggeling how he get's overlooked as much as he does. He's put up sick routes in the REAL mountains around the world, as well as climbing 5.14.

I don't think a lot of people can really grasp the concept of what we did.... unless you've been up there.

It was "in your face" just about every placement.

I'm getting psyched to rope up again this weekend.

STAY tuned!!! Ammon


addiroids


Feb 22, 2003, 6:55 AM
Post #13 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Good job buddy. You are truely a master of this climbing madness.

Paul


elcapbuzz


Feb 24, 2003, 1:56 AM
Post #14 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

Thanks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks Guys!!!

Ok, it wasn't really a secret.... just didn't want to say anything, until we did something.

Brian and I were trying to send 5 Zion routes in a day. Well, we ran out of steam after climbing three routes mainly due to only having three hours of sleep.

BUT, we sent three routes in a day..... in record time.

Prodigal Sun - 2:36, Moonlight Buttress - 1:57 and Lunar Ecstasy - 4:09.

I want to thank Joe Auer (pinscar) for all of your help and coming down from SL to take pics of us.

Next time we'll try it on a day we didn't have to work, so we can get some more sleep.

Cheers, Ammon


passthepitonspete


Feb 24, 2003, 2:29 AM
Post #15 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What the....?

How the heck did you guys have time to make coffee?

[Madness, I say...]

Looking forward to the pix, mate. Good on ya!


mrhardgrit


Feb 24, 2003, 7:44 PM
Post #16 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 153

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow! That's really amazing! A real inspiration....

PS. Belated well done on New Jersey Turn Pike - I didn't realise what you were on at the time until I saw the addition on Hans' site. Your pirate cries kept me motivated and living!


roughster


Feb 24, 2003, 8:07 PM
Post #17 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tag for later reading


weaselman


Feb 24, 2003, 8:10 PM
Post #18 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 17, 2003
Posts: 294

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

how bout we all just forget i said that? didnt mean to offend you ammon. a little blue bird PMed me and said it wasn't true. funnily enough, the bird admitted to bivying illegally in Yosemite a lot. I cant seem to remember his name, though. Was it peter or something? hmm


skywalker


Feb 24, 2003, 9:24 PM
Post #19 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 52

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awesome job! It would take me longer than that to rack up!


theooze


Feb 24, 2003, 9:42 PM
Post #20 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2003
Posts: 619

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

[previously posted in the General forum] Brian was a key part of my via ferrata construction team. I did an interview with him for my web site a couple years ago, if anyone's interested: http://www.wvclimbing.com/news/flynbrian.html

Here's Brian taking a break from hoisting bridge cables to put up a new route:

http://www.nelsonrocks.org/...ryan%20climb%201.jpg


elcapbuzz


Mar 10, 2003, 4:59 PM
Post #21 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My TR on Latitiudes is almost done..... but I'm not goint to post it, YET.

One of the rags might be publishing it and I don't want to give it away until after the issue is gone.

There is one pic of the ascent here:

http://www.rocknrun.net/cgallery.html

Cheers, Ammon


elcapbuzz


Mar 16, 2003, 5:01 PM
Post #22 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

Latitudes Photo [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 

http://www.rocknrun.net/Ammon_on_latitudes.jpg



copperhead


Mar 16, 2003, 5:19 PM
Post #23 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sweet pic bro! No enhancement there, eh?


elcapbuzz


Mar 16, 2003, 5:23 PM
Post #24 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Enhancement? I didn't even have a chisel.....

JK. Yeah, I used Adobe to outline those colorful and bitchin' Yates speed aiders I'm using.

I think that's the 3rd pitch........


passthepitonspete


Mar 16, 2003, 5:41 PM
Post #25 of 34 (4642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

OK, OK - after scratching my head about this for some time, I have finally figured it out. You used a thermos, right? You brought your coffee in a thermos. That has to be it, right? There is no way you guys had time to brew it on the go. [At least, I don't think you did....]

But dude! That photo is ETS! I thought that it was a water-colour painting. I highly recommend you submit it here, as it'll be voted to make the front page for sure! Very very cool.


elcapbuzz


Mar 16, 2003, 7:01 PM
Post #26 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

There's no room for a thermos in speedclimbing!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Haa haa haa, you're too funny Pete.......

No, we didn't bring a thermos.

We brought instant coffee (rolled in a plastic bag). We boiled water (in a small camp fire) with a chili can we used the night before and cut off a water bottle for a cup. We then flattened the can with our hammers and put it at the bottom of the hualbag.

Cheers mate, Ammon


passthepitonspete


Mar 16, 2003, 7:22 PM
Post #27 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Geez, you had me worried for a second. I thought you were going to say that you put a pinch of instant coffee between your lip and your teeth. [Note: I have never done this with coffee, only 'baccy]

Mmmmm-mm! Chili-flavoUred coffee! Ya just gotta love it, eh?





As for the bit about cutting off the top of the water bottle to make a cup:

The Place: Big Sur Ledge, Sea of Dreams, El Capitan

The Setting: The infamous Keg Party, May 2001

Says I: "Sorry, mate - I've only got one cup. You'll have to wait til I finish my beer....."

That barnacle-bitten scurvy-ridden sea-dog Ammon had his pocket knife whipped out so fast, and that bottle decapitated so quickly, one would have thought he once worked as an executioner on the guillotine!

AAARRRRRR, may-tee!!!!


elcapbuzz


Mar 16, 2003, 8:13 PM
Post #28 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey man, I don't mess around when it comes to beer......... or coffee.

No, we had enough water to clean out all the remains of chili. Actually this was Brian's idea, he should get ALL the credit for being ghetto, Hhaa haa haa.

Haa haa haa, too funny!!!


elcapbuzz


Mar 25, 2003, 5:14 AM
Post #29 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

Links to both trip reports [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here's a couple links to the trip reports in Zion.

Enjoy!!

Cheers, Ammon

http://www.rocknrun.net/latitudes.html

http://www.rocknrun.net/linkup.html


kalcario


Mar 25, 2003, 6:29 AM
Post #30 of 34 (3130 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok, please don't get pissed at me here, not trying to dis...

I dug the article on your website, great pictures too. The first picture shows McCray with the Streaked Wall in the background. It's huge. I'm thinking "Those guys did that in a day...holy fuck...look at that thing..." then I scroll down and am slightly surprised to find a picture of McCray bivied on a ledge 5 pitches up on what is advertised as a one day ascent, and it turns out that you guys one-dayed the steep part of the route and that the 5 "approach pitches" apparently did'nt count. Flame me if you want but to me this seems like claiming a one day of the Salathe when you started from Mammoth Terraces, just because the approach pitches are non-tech or low angle compared to the rest of the route does'nt mean they're not part of the wall...again no dis intended, I don't know shit about walls, just trying to give you a layman's perspective here...


copperhead


Mar 25, 2003, 6:36 AM
Post #31 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Latitudes looks like fun.

Nice work you wrascally wrascals!


atg200


Mar 25, 2003, 3:56 PM
Post #32 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wow ammon, that trip report was fantastic. i'm sweating in my cubicle - that was maybe the best description of hard sandstone aiding i've ever read.


elcapbuzz


Mar 25, 2003, 5:06 PM
Post #33 of 34 (3130 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Kalcario,

You have a right to be confused, we were too...... and that's why I'm VERY open about our ascent.

I already anticipated this debate.

The difference is written in the topo's.

The first pitch of the Salathe starts at the Freeblast. Mamoth Terraces is 11 pitches up.

Look at the topo for Latitudes. It starts at Rubicon Ledge.

Our initial plan was to do the approach pitches along with the route but realized it didn't really matter.

Ok, if these pitches are part of the route..... show me ANY documentation of them. They were never written up as a topo because they are NOT part of the route.

Believe me, we discussed this issue with the first ascentists before we started.

Cheers, Ammon


grippedclimber


Mar 27, 2003, 9:07 PM
Post #34 of 34 (3129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 65

asdf [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nice pictures of the wall! That route looks great. Sad to hear that Lunar has deteriorated. I hope no one is nailing on it. I have made the mistake of using cam hooks on sandstone before. It was not on a trade route but still. They worked well until one time, ping and I totally blew a placement. I have repented of my ways and feel really bad about doing this. After that I put those hooks away and will never use them on sandstone again. So the moral of the story, PLEASE DONT USE CAMHOOKS IN ZION PEOPLE nobody told me not to do this thing that I should have had enough sense to figure out myself. I told you, many others have said so before so just dont do it it ruins great routes like Lunar X. maybe I should make a separate post for my rants.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook