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igcuesta
Mar 18, 2003, 9:47 AM
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A week ago, Ramón Juliá sent "La Rambla", a new 9a+ propposal in Siurana (Spain). After the FA Ramón was filmed climbing the route. You can download the video at
http://desnivel.com/tus_paginas/videos/ramonrambla.wmv
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danl
Mar 18, 2003, 11:48 AM
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Holy Rope drag batman! That deserves a 15a rating just for fighting the 30 lbs thats pulling down on your harness
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phil_nev
Mar 18, 2003, 2:17 PM
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i agree, looks like just clipping adds 10 grades. The line snakes a bit everywhere....
I was getting really frustrated, he didnt even start to make it look hard till he got 3/4's the way up.... even then the rope drag seems the only thing holding him down...............
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chouca
Mar 18, 2003, 3:08 PM
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Wow, that is a stout effort! Very smooth and collected for 5.15a. He must have really wired the thing during redpoint attempts. Based on the footage, the route looks like it zig-zags alot, or maybe it just traverses. Nice transitions on the edit, looked very smooth each time the camera angle changed. Thanks for posting the video.
Marc B.
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miker
Mar 18, 2003, 3:39 PM
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Sweet!
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mowz
Mar 18, 2003, 3:46 PM
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so sick
-Mowz
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soze
Mar 18, 2003, 3:56 PM
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That Rocks!
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daisuke
Mar 18, 2003, 3:56 PM
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that looks too easy to be a 9a+! (not that I could do it)
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craggy
Mar 18, 2003, 4:15 PM
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was it just me who noticed right at one of the pumpy cruxes near the top the camera shot had a hickup? ie. he possibly fell reaching for the hold but was cut out of the shot? looks uber though...
Craggy
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mike_ok
Mar 18, 2003, 4:24 PM
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give us more videos! ;-)
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lox
Mar 18, 2003, 4:29 PM
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In reply to: Holy Rope drag batman! That deserves a 15a rating just for fighting the 30 lbs thats pulling down on your harness
Uninspiring.
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tanner
Mar 18, 2003, 4:40 PM
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Smooth!! Thats all I can say.
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russman
Mar 18, 2003, 4:47 PM
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Holy Smokin Moses...I would agree with the Rope-Drag and deffinatly looked like it zigged and zagged alot....
like I could do it 8)
very cool....nice shootin
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kriso9tails
Mar 20, 2003, 2:42 AM
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Regrip much? I'm not much into watching sport videos, but that was kind of a cool line. Something sadistic in me wanted to see him bail when his foot crossed the rope closer to the end there... I can't help it if I'm depraved.
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danl
Mar 20, 2003, 5:34 AM
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ok you're right it just looks like a v4+ boulder problem after 60 feet of jug hauling.
asdfasdfasdfasdfasdfasdfasdf
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slab-dyno
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Mar 22, 2003, 6:42 PM
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That was looong. It didn't look like a 5.15a though, aside from the endurance it must take. I'm waiting for a repeat, then I'll be amazed.
Jimmy
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misha
Mar 22, 2003, 6:58 PM
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uuuuummmmmmmmmmm, so who decides that it's a 5.15. How can you grade something at that level? It seems better of calling it a "really hard route".
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xanx
Mar 22, 2003, 7:23 PM
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i always though routes were graded based on their cruxes, and boulder problems were graded based on the whole problem (i.e. length, how hard each move is, ect...). if so, the rope drag and length wouldn't really merit the 5.15a grade. still looks really long and hard though.
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igcuesta
Mar 22, 2003, 10:27 PM
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This guy (Ramón Juliá)
1- Has onsighted 2 well confirmed 8b+.
2- Has done 8c+ on the second try.
3- Has climbed 9a before.
4- Has been on the top positions of the climbing world cup.
5- He has given like 50 tries before sending the route. Some very strong climbers, like Dani Andrada (with more than 150 tries- yes 150!-), have tried the route without success.
So I think the 15a propposal is at least beliveable, though confirmation is needed as in the case of some other routes like Realization, Akira, Orujo, etc.
As far as I know Ramón is going to spend his Easter holidays on El Chorro and I have been said that he is going to try there Orujo. He is also planning a trip to Ceüse so maybe Realization and Akira are on his viewpoint.
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igcuesta
Mar 22, 2003, 10:39 PM
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And, obviously, he is not sending the route on the video. On the video he is only repeating the different sections of the route, The route was sent a week before.
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weaselman
Mar 22, 2003, 10:46 PM
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when i clicked on the link, all i got was a whole bunch of mysterious coding characters. do you have another link i could try? i really want to see the video. thanks.
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vertical_planar
Mar 23, 2003, 12:53 AM
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He just makes it look so easy...
:shock: :O
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dlintz
Mar 23, 2003, 1:20 AM
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That's no 15a, he didn't even scream. :lol:
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funktimonious
Mar 23, 2003, 10:31 PM
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I liked the video because the silence really added to it...but you couldn't see the holds at all, half the time he was hidden by an overhang, and there's no sense of the route in its entirety. The REALIZATION video blows this thing out of the water. I can't really comment on the climb, because it's not represented well, but I think Josh Lowell (the guy who shot Realization?) should go make a good filming of this route.
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igcuesta
Mar 23, 2003, 10:52 PM
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In reply to: when i clicked on the link, all i got was a whole bunch of mysterious coding characters. do you have another link i could try? i really want to see the video. thanks.
Just "save as" after all the mysterious coding characters are downloaded, and you'll get it...
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crackaddict
Mar 23, 2003, 10:59 PM
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Really cool!
He made it look 5.10.
I I just thought there would be more intensity going on with a person climbing 5.15.
Thats all!
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brianthew
Mar 23, 2003, 11:25 PM
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Crazy.
I think dlintz had it right though. Obviously it's just a 10b or so since he didn't let out any primal screams. Ever see Sharma on Realization? He was letting everybody in France know about his sending. http://www.tc.umn.edu/~wray0016/emots/lol.gif
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topher
Mar 23, 2003, 11:29 PM
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i dont want this to sound bad, but i dont think thats 15a (i couldnt climb it) an secondly that looks like a dumb route. rope drage is nasty and its all aover the place it doesnt fallow a natural sort of feture of logical path! relization looked much more harder.
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renobdarb
Mar 24, 2003, 12:42 AM
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In reply to: Really cool! He made it look 5.10. I just thought there would be more intensity going on with a person climbing 5.15. Thats all!
It just goes to show you how good this guy really is...
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bandycoot
Mar 24, 2003, 1:04 AM
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Concerning the rope drag. Sharma had to skip clips because the climbing was so hard and took uber falls as a result. This had so many damn bolts, I don't see why a climber wouldn't skip every other one to reduce rope drag which appeared to be huge! It's overhung and the fall wouldn't be bad. Sharma had the balls to skip clips, so I wonder if someone repeating the route could clip fewer bolts thus downgrading the difficulty of the climbing by reducing ropedrag. I'm not going to say that I don't think that it is 15a since I think that it is LAME that anyone on this site who doesn't climb hard 5.14 could make that claim, but the fewer clip experiment would definitely be an interesting one to run!
Josh
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rwaltermyer
Mar 24, 2003, 2:02 AM
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i agree...sharma made Realization look like a 15a...perhaps all the falls that the video showed before he sent the thing made for quite a finale...nonetheless.... I'd like to see Sharma on that one.
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ckershner0
Mar 24, 2003, 2:17 AM
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where would one go to see the realization video?
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surforclimb
Mar 24, 2003, 2:34 AM
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looks way to easy for that grade. the holds that are visable look really good and positive. also that was way to many clips. there were like 5 clips in like a total of 10 moves. i think the concensis of this forum is that it is not a 15a.
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bandycoot
Mar 24, 2003, 6:59 AM
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Who cares about the consensus of the forum :?: How many people that have climbed that route have posted in this discussion? It may not look 15a, but the reading I did on it made it sound pretty damn hard :!: Gee, and I wonder why people have started to shy away from ratings. Then people go and bitch about them not rating it! Not like those who bitch could ever climb that level anyways. :?
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kalcario
Mar 24, 2003, 7:22 AM
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Bear in mind that you're not watching actual redpoint footage as you were with Realization, the cameraman in La Rambla is jumaring while the climber hangs on the bolts, that's why the moves look easy...also a friend of mine watched Elie Chevieux try La Rambla a few years ago, this is a guy who has onsighted 2 14a's and v10 at Hueco, and he said that this guy was utterly bouted and "could not put together 2 moves in a row".
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igcuesta
Mar 24, 2003, 8:25 AM
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Regarding the clips, (though I have not see him sending the route) I'm pretty sure that Ramonet skipped some of the bolts. Andrada, on the first traverse, used to skip up to 3 consecutive bolts while trying to send.
As the video was not recorded while sending it does not make sense to skip some bolts: the climber would probably wanted to rest on some of them.
By the way, some time ago, when asked about the route on an interview Sharma said that eventualy he would try La Rambla.
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bighigaz
Mar 24, 2003, 2:29 PM
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The video is really good... but I still think Sharma's "Realization" is a step above it...
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koko
Mar 24, 2003, 5:23 PM
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dont they know what runners are???
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mike_ok
Mar 24, 2003, 5:29 PM
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i'm interested in the Realization video too. Anyone have the link?
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pbjosh
Mar 24, 2003, 5:35 PM
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All you people with your "doesn't look like 15a," "don't they know what runners are," and "why doesn't he skip clips" comments are tools.
Listen to what other people have said - this is not a redpoint. This is the climber climbing for the camera and resting on bolts while the cameraman jugs.
Freaking idiots, downrating a route that's likely at least 20 grades above your own ability.
josh
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 5:49 PM
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The Realization video is'nt anywhere where you can get it for free, you can buy the dosage vol 1. and see it their, or you can see clips at www.bigupproductions.com the trailor for dosage vol 1.
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beercanclimber
Mar 24, 2003, 5:59 PM
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In reply to: The Realization video is'nt anywhere where you can get it for free,
this is wrong, you can watch a good deal of it at
http://www.climbxmedia.com
just click on The Dose, the green button at the bottom and you can watch a bunch of diff clips, including realization.
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 6:04 PM
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climbx and big up are the same thing just different names, its owned by the lowell brothers, and its still the trailor to the dosage vol. 1. their is a few pics of sharma and a good editorial about it which is always good eh?
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 6:09 PM
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oops was'nt done with that but, their might be a free video floating around on the net somwhere but its not at cxm, you should go back and see that the video is expired.
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funktimonious
Mar 24, 2003, 6:25 PM
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I've got the ten minute clip of Chris going throught the crux and some other commentary by Graham. I got it off some guy's FTP account (he posted the username and password, but I can't find it now b/c the search tool blows). Anyway, it's 58.3 MB and seeing how i think everyone should see this piece of art, I could send it to anyone's FTP account if they want it. You just need to PM me with your USERNAME and PASSWORD and i'll give it to you.
--Peace.
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 6:31 PM
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they have that clip on cxm but its like a slide show still pretty kick ass tho :shock:
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mikedano
Mar 24, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Woah dude that's a LONG route. And the climber looks REALLY good.
Did anyone else notice his foot positions? At some points he had his foot behind or below the rope, meaning that it would flip him if he fell. It's one of my pet peves...
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beercanclimber
Mar 24, 2003, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: Did anyone else notice his foot positions? At some points he had his foot behind or below the rope, meaning that it would flip him if he fell. It's one of my pet peves
i guess if anyone is allowed to get away with it it should be sharma...
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