|
stick233
Jan 29, 2004, 3:04 PM
Post #1 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 339
|
Anyone have any ideas as to the longest trad route around 5.7? I was wondering if there are any 2000 ft. lines... specifically in the southwest, but curious overall.
I've already done Royal Arches, which is pretty long, but would like more long easy trad routes for practice...
|
|
|
|
|
telluryan
Jan 29, 2004, 3:07 PM
Post #2 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 194
|
check the red rocks, nv guidebooks. I know there are a quite a few there...
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Jan 29, 2004, 3:29 PM
Post #3 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
The Sierra Crest has many long ridges at moderate grades, but that go on for literally miles. The 5.9 Pallisade traverse is nearly ten miles long. The Sawtooth Ridge is 5.8 and about two and a half miles. The Mathes Crest is a mile long 5.7, the East Ridge of Humphries is a 6,000 foot 5.2.
None of these routes are easy, most folks bail.......
|
|
|
|
|
stick233
Jan 29, 2004, 3:32 PM
Post #4 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 339
|
herm,
do you mean humphries as in flagstaff? i am not familiar with these areas. do you know where i can research these better?
as far as mileage, is that hiking with a bit of climbing? more adventure climbing? i'm intrigued!
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Jan 29, 2004, 3:36 PM
Post #5 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
The Sierra Crest in California. Distances are actual climbing[class 3 and up. Some are more sustained than others]. Look at a guide book or my website for obscure stuff, pics of Humphries.....
|
|
|
|
|
crotch
Jan 29, 2004, 6:47 PM
Post #6 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
|
In reply to: The Sierra Crest has many long ridges at moderate grades, but that go on for literally miles. The 5.9 Pallisade traverse is nearly ten miles long. The Sawtooth Ridge is 5.8 and about two and a half miles. The Mathes Crest is a mile long 5.7, the East Ridge of Humphries is a 6,000 foot 5.2. None of these routes are easy, most folks bail.......
More about the Sierra:
Humphries is extra-classic and you prob. won't see anyone else. N. Ridge of Lone Pine Peak has a lot (mile?) of climbing, none harder than 5.5 or so. E. Buttress of Whitney is prob. 10 pitches if you pitch it out at 5.8. Mt. Conness. Moon Goddes Arete on Temple Crag. The aretes on Split Mt. (haven't done Split yet).
BTW, you should be SOLID at 5.8 for most of these endeavors just becase of the routefinding problems, time spent on approach, descent, and the altitude.
Red Rocks:
Beulah's Book to Solar Slab, Johny Vegas to Solar Slab, Chrymson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows (to the top of the Mescalito) are all >10 pitch affairs. If you can handle a bit of 5.9, then hit up Epinephrine.
These are just two places. There are plenty more.
|
|
|
|
|
bubba
Jan 29, 2004, 6:52 PM
Post #7 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 284
|
The Bugaboos have some classic routes. Bugaboo Spire is 10+ pitches of 5.7.
Not exactly in your neck of the woods though.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Jan 29, 2004, 7:10 PM
Post #8 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
These in Yosemite come close to your requirements:
Royal Arches SF of North Dome link up.
Snake Dike...with the slabs at the top gets you that high.
Reg. Route on Fairview Dome, very short and aidable 5.9 crux, the rest is more moderate
Munginella/Selaginella link up on 5 open books.
Tenaya Peak. 14 pitches. Book says 5.5, but you can deviate a bit and make it harder. This is one of the most beautiful routes I've been on.
|
|
|
|
|
chugach001
Jan 29, 2004, 7:44 PM
Post #9 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 311
|
It's not the longest, but from what I know there is a 1,000' 5.7 at Nelson Rocks in WV. It follows a long ridgeline.
Check out the R&I article this summer on classic technical ridge crests out west.
Also - go to www.supertopo.com and type in 5.7 (or whatever) and it will give you a list of routes at that grade.
|
|
|
|
|
bumblie
Jan 29, 2004, 7:45 PM
Post #10 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 7629
|
In reply to: The Bugaboos have some classic routes. Bugaboo Spire is 10+ pitches of 5.7. Not exactly in your neck of the woods though.
The SE ridge of Snowpatch is 5.6, 17 pitches.... I think.
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Jan 29, 2004, 7:59 PM
Post #11 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo range has about a 2000 ft. 5.6 on it. It's in one of the 14er guidebooks. I can't remember the title off hand.
|
|
|
|
|
hendicrimpin
Jan 29, 2004, 8:07 PM
Post #12 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 121
|
rob you should head up to tuolomne and hit up cathedral peak (anywhere from 5.5-5.8 routes and 5-6 pitches) - it has fun, relaxed climbing with a great summit and stellar view. Mt. Conness has i don't know how many pitches(never done it), but i know its more than 7 or 8 pitches and supposed to be good. Have you been hitting up the superstitions or mt lemmon natural lines lately??? Sounds like you're looking for an adventure...call me if you find one. :D
|
|
|
|
|
brianinslc
Jan 29, 2004, 8:15 PM
Post #13 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
|
East Ridge of the Grand...I seem to recall belaying 20 pitches...but, shoot, its only 5.6ish...
SW Ridge of Snowpatch in the Bugaboos...12 pitches.
South Face Direct w/ garnet traverse on Nez Pierce in the Tetons...9 pitches (? can't remember).
Brewer's Buttress on Castle Mtn...9 pitches? Only 5.6 too...(maybe a bit hard for a 5.6 though).
East Ridge of the Wolf's Head, starting w/ the Buckingham variation, Wind Rivers. 9 pitches?
Jubulant Song, Windy Peak, Red Rocks. 7 pitches?
The Collin's guide for wyoming crags lists a 5.8 on Lankin Dome that is around 7 or so pitches...but...homey don't think its a 5.8...
Brian in SLC
|
|
|
|
|
rhei
Jan 29, 2004, 9:04 PM
Post #14 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2003
Posts: 71
|
I'll second brianinslc's recommendation to head to the Tetons. There are lots of long, moderate routes there. Buckingham Ridge on the Middle Teton is worth looking at. A couple of less commonly climbed but fun (and easier) long routes are SW Buttress on Disappointment and the Otter Body on the Grand.
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Jan 29, 2004, 9:13 PM
Post #15 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
It's in your neck of the woods and good time of year to do it though not as long (and easier) than most listed.
SE Arette on Baboquivari. It was a lot of fun.
Crescent Crack or Cherry Jam, Table Mountain (6-7) pitches. I've wanted to do them. Worthwhile?
|
|
|
|
|
steelmonkey
Jan 29, 2004, 9:33 PM
Post #16 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 145
|
In reply to: It's in your neck of the woods and good time of year to do it though not as long (and easier) than most listed. SE Arete on Baboquivari. It was a lot of fun.
Yup, fun route. The approach and descent makes up for any disappointment you might have that the day will be too short. :D
In reply to: Crescent Crack or Cherry Jam, Table Mountain (6-7) pitches. I've wanted to do them. Worthwhile?
Haven't made it yet, but have a friend that's done Cherry Jam. Said it was cool. Have heard Crescent is also worthwhile. Approach is probably the biggest roadblock...it's pretty horrendous. Also now that Pusch Ridge section is closed part of the year for bighorn sheep lambing season. Think maybe you can get around that by approaching Table via the south side up a canyon who's name escapes me a the moment. Up, up, up, then rap to the base of the route and climb back out.
Couple other long routes in AZ like you're talking about that I can think of...
Elephant Head in southern Arizona is supposed to be 1000 feet of 5.6.
Elephant Dome in Mendoza Canyon has Elephant Trunk (5.6) that's about 1000 feet long (lots of easy pitches). That was fun.
Probably some long stuff in the Sandias that might be worth a go.
Also, over in Las Cruces there are lots of long adventure routes that aren't rated too hard. We did a nice 6 pitch easy route (5.7ish) up the Citadel and there's a 14 pitch 5.6 route on Sugarloaf over on the East side. That one's got a fairly large adventure factor due to lack of pro, but it's a slab, so maybe not so bad. Big approach...did it once and got blown out of there. Check here for more info on that: http://www.nmsu.edu/...amato/sugarloaf.html
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Jan 29, 2004, 9:43 PM
Post #17 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
Elephant Trunk is almost straight across the freeway from my folks place in Green Valley. Almost did it about 7-8 years ago with my kid but the weather turned shi**y. Forgot about that one. Have to go back and get that one too. Neat approach, FWD onto the slab step out and start. What's the story on the cables in the route description?
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Jan 29, 2004, 9:46 PM
Post #18 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
In reply to: I remember hearing something many years ago about a long route (25+ pitches?) called Darkstar. I don't remember the location though. Also, there were apparently some pitches that had 4th class scrambling involved. Can anyone here shed some light on a location & more detailed info? Is the route high quality?
You are proabably refering to the route that is to the right of Sun Ribbon Arrete on Temple Crag. I think it is in the Fidler/Moyner book.
|
|
|
|
|
steelmonkey
Jan 29, 2004, 9:48 PM
Post #19 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 145
|
In reply to: Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo range has about a 2000 ft. 5.6 on it. It's in one of the 14er guidebooks. I can't remember the title off hand.
Ellingwood Arete (Ellingwood Ledges) is the route you're probably thinking of...great line, very cool location. Probably more like 5.7 (pitch near the top). It's one of the 50 Crowded Climbs of North America. More info and lots of trip reports here: http://www.naclassics.com/...bs/crestone/beta.htm
|
|
|
|
|
steelmonkey
Jan 29, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #20 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 145
|
In reply to: Elephant Trunk is almost straight across the freeway from my folks place in Green Valley.
For the record, I think you mean Elephant Head (across from Green Valley). Haven't done it, but it's on the list to knock off some day. Probably more of a mountaineering experience than anything. I found some pics on a web site just kinda digging around once. Try googling and you'd probably run across it. The Elephant Trunk route is over in Mendoza Canyon, kinda sorta northeast of where Babo is located. Also fun and a ton of easy climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
crackjammer
Jan 29, 2004, 10:12 PM
Post #21 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53
|
1. Complete Northwest Ridge from the Valley floor on the Grand Teton - 6,100 feet high, max. 5.7
2. Complete North or Northeast Ridge from the Desert Floor on Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra. Both about 7,000 vertical feet to mid 5th class.
3. Complete Northwest Ridge on Mount Logan, North Cascades. Grade V 5.8, almost 3 miles of ridgeline.
4. Direct North Pillar on Mount Slesse in British Columbia. Grave V 5.8, 27 pitches.
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Jan 29, 2004, 11:19 PM
Post #22 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
Thanks, Steelmonkey. I've got unfinished business with three more 14'ers in Cal this year then its back to AZ :wink:
Dark Star is as previously mentioned grade V 5.10 A0 25-30 pitches. I remember reading somewhere that the FA was done in two stages with an escape/continuation from a ledge system somewhere about halfway up, (maybe that was Barefoot Buynam).
Moon Goddess 5.7 IV 10+ or so pitches was great. Good rock (by alpine standards) Sun Ribbon 5.9, 18 pitches (and a tyrolean) has a big reputation (haven't done it yet).
Beautiful camping by the lake, short approach from there, and a fairly straightforward descent to Contact Pass (one single rope rap) for all three routes.
|
|
|
|
|
takeme
Jan 30, 2004, 1:27 AM
Post #23 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2003
Posts: 367
|
In the Black Canyon there is a route called "Born For Adventure", grade IV 5.8, close to 2000 feet long. I don't know how "easy" it is, though--I know of 2 parties who climbed much harder than 5.8 who've been benighted on it. OK, just for the record, I'm NOT recommending it!
Perhaps much more doable, in Colorado, would be the link-up of Stettner's Ledges (5.7+) to upper Kieners (5.3 or so, with lots of 4th class) on the East Face of Long's Peak. This would give you 1500 feet of decent enough rock climbing in a spectacular alpine setting. There are several other possible link-ups in the 5.7-5.8 range on the east face of routes which are more obscure (e.g. the Window, Zumie's Thumb, etc.), but would give you 1500' or more, not to mention a bit of adventure. Elsewhere in the Park are plenty of excellent 1000' lines in the 5.7-8 range. Petite Grepon, Culp-Bossier, N.Ridge of Spearhead, S.Ridge of Notchtop, NW of Sharkstooth, etc. Any route in the Park requires competence at "adventure" climbing, and thus perhaps a comfort zone as far as your own ability is concerned.
In the Flatirons near Boulder, you'll find 5.6-5.7 routes of over 1000' feet, although so low angle that they don't feel that big.
Charles
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Jan 30, 2004, 5:21 AM
Post #24 of 55
(6839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
Everest?
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Jan 30, 2004, 5:30 AM
Post #25 of 55
(6835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
In reply to: In reply to: Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo range has about a 2000 ft. 5.6 on it. It's in one of the 14er guidebooks. I can't remember the title off hand. Ellingwood Arete (Ellingwood Ledges) is the route you're probably thinking of...great line, very cool location. Probably more like 5.7 (pitch near the top). It's one of the 50 Crowded Climbs of North America. More info and lots of trip reports here: http://www.naclassics.com/...bs/crestone/beta.htm
Aye, that would be the line. Thanks for the link. I've visited that site before, but never to see the pictures of that route. Heard there was a helicopter extraction from that route not too long ago. The book I read about the route is Roach's "Colorado's Fourteeners". Great read for the bedside table. Sometimes I can't get to sleep after puting that one down, however.
|
|
|
|
|
arrrghjp
Jan 30, 2004, 5:33 AM
Post #26 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2002
Posts: 68
|
Slick Rock in Idaho near McCall is about 8-10 full rope pitches of fairly consistent 5.6 granite slab climbing. Great gear placements on most of the climb, provided you follow the classic route. The scenery is spectacular, and not a very popular locale.
|
|
|
|
|
moabbeth
Jan 30, 2004, 5:42 AM
Post #27 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786
|
Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks):
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn
Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too.
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jan 30, 2004, 6:11 AM
Post #28 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
In reply to: Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks): http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too.
Is it classic? Is it fun to touch the rock? Or is it boring?
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:25 AM
Post #29 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
In reply to: In reply to: Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks): http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too. Is it classic? Is it fun to touch the rock? Or is it boring?
It is a slog.
Beulahs Book has two 5.8 moves and a bunch of 5.5 climbing.
Johnny Vegas is 2 ultra soft pitches of 5.7 and one craptacular pitch of 5.3
Solar Slab is Ok. Like it's name suggests, it tends to lean inwards.
The combination of climbs is most likely the least exposed 1500 feet of climbing one could possible do and still maintain 5th class conditions. This, coupled with a short approach (from a Red Rock perspective ~ 30 minutes), and bolted anchors, makes these climbs the quintesential girlfriend/nOOb outings.
10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
|
|
|
|
|
phugganut
Jan 30, 2004, 6:32 AM
Post #30 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
|
In reply to: 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
Sounds like fun to me! 8)
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jan 30, 2004, 6:34 AM
Post #31 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
In reply to: In reply to: Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks): http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too. Is it classic? Is it fun to touch the rock? Or is it boring?
SOmehow, I sense a difference of opinion here, and since Moabbeth is far cuter than drkodos, I think for now I will side with her LOL.
Drkodos, it may be a slog, but is the rock good quality? Is it nice to touch, or is it miserable to be on? Below 5.7 I start looking for no hands potentiial, does it have no hands potential? THAT is a way to spice up a climb that otherwise has no redeeming social value!
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:35 AM
Post #32 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
The rock is excellent quality. Very user friendly.
They are great routes for their grades, but they do tend to be soft, with many, MANY, easy sections. Nothing BUT no-hands rests on these beauties....
|
|
|
|
|
moabbeth
Jan 30, 2004, 6:36 AM
Post #33 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786
|
In reply to: 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
Maybe for YOU kodos....cause to actually top out on Solar Slab, there isn't a top anchor. You must have stopped before the 4th class walkup to the top. We topped out and did the 3 raps then slab walk off so I could see where Levitation 29 and Rainbow Buttress were. It's a gorgeous walk off and lots more fun than what you went through from what it sounds.
And SFW if it's a quintisential noob route...the original poster asked for long 5.7 stuff, I simply gave him an answer of one I thought he'd like. It's in the sun, fairly easy, and has a great view. Sure ain't anything to bitch about.
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:38 AM
Post #34 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
No one is beothching, just telling it like it is. There are better routes at those grades in Red Rock. Longer, better rock, better exposure, with easier descents, and less crowded.
|
|
|
|
|
crackjammer
Jan 30, 2004, 4:43 PM
Post #35 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53
|
Come on people. He asked for the LONGEST 5.7 and 5.8 routes. Anything under 25 pitches does not count. I listed 4 good ones on page 2.
|
|
|
|
|
stick233
Jan 30, 2004, 5:07 PM
Post #36 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 339
|
thanks for all the beta folks...
i think i'll try to hit elephant head before i move from tucson next month, then i'm thinkning about red rocks, potrero chico, or yose again... i'd like to hit up snake dike, and the vagas/ solar slab link sounds fun in red rocks...
tuolomne, tetons et al will probably wait a bit longer... finding the time to climb gets harder with age(?!)
thanks again!
|
|
|
|
|
stick233
Jan 30, 2004, 5:10 PM
Post #37 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 339
|
In reply to: 1. Complete Northwest Ridge from the Valley floor on the Grand Teton - 6,100 feet high, max. 5.7 2. Complete North or Northeast Ridge from the Desert Floor on Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra. Both about 7,000 vertical feet to mid 5th class. 3. Complete Northwest Ridge on Mount Logan, North Cascades. Grade V 5.8, almost 3 miles of ridgeline. 4. Direct North Pillar on Mount Slesse in British Columbia. Grave V 5.8, 27 pitches.
as far as ridgline climbing goes, is it more of an adventure hike over near horizontal fins, or vertical? not real familiar... a 20+ pitch 5.7 sounds great to me though!
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Jan 30, 2004, 11:08 PM
Post #38 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
Are they hikes? Consider that only two or three parties have completed the entire palasade traverse. It may look horizontal from a distance, but funny how things open up and swallow you when you get too close. Most parties bail off these ridges without finishing. There is a 4,000' 5.4 on the North Rib of Williamson. Give it a try, see if it is "easy".
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 11:18 PM
Post #39 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
In reply to: In reply to: 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground. Sounds like fun to me! 8)
I climbed with a guy from this site that would go out of his way to get into epics. If the climb had a straightforward way to get down, he was bummed. Singlehandedly, he keeps headlamp manufacturers in business. He can turn a one pitch sport climb into a multi-day bivouc affair.
For this reason, and others, I suppose, he loves Red Rock. The routes here tend to be generally soft, with many times the true crux being encountered on the way back down !!
If one wants long routes in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, as has been stated many times above:
Get Thee to the Sierras.
|
|
|
|
|
phugganut
Jan 31, 2004, 12:34 AM
Post #40 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
|
I don't go out of my way to get into epics. However, unlike many people on this site, I actually ENJOY rappelling, hiking, and scrambling. It's fun to me. I mean, I think that Beth's route sounds like a blast, AND you get to hike, scramble, and rappell!!! Woohoo!
BTW Kodos, who cares if the climbs are easy? While it's fun to push your limits, it's also fun to do easy climbs on good rock in beautiful scenery with good people. A good example is WHite MAiden's Walkaway @ Tahqitz. It's way easy, has a long slog of an approach, and an even longer descent. However, it's a fabulous climb and I'm sure to do it several more times. For the same reasons, though I've never been to Red Rocks, it's gonna move up a few notches on my 'to do' list.
Anyway, sorry to rant/preach.
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Jan 31, 2004, 12:50 AM
Post #41 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
In reply to: BTW Kodos, who cares if the climbs are easy? While it's fun to push your limits, it's also fun to do easy climbs on good rock in beautiful scenery with good people.
I respectfully disagree on many counts.
When I want to socialize I don't do it rock climbing.
I never have fun on easy climbs, as I stay away from them at this point. When I did them, they were not easy as I was new to those grades and the sport was different 25 years ago.
Today, doing an easy climb for fun would be like driving six hours to climb the stairs at your house. There is no point, for me.
Why climb if not for pushing your limits? In general, this is the problem I have with the current crop of today's climbers. Too much talk about feelings and spirituality and good friends.
Climbing is all about pushing limits ( by definition) and here is why: It is unnatural, and there is no reason to climb. Just being on vertical rock is entering a realm that humans may not belong.
Those that know me, climb with me, will attest that I am always pushing. Falling, attacking, getting better, going after it with a zealousness and intensity that most cannot match. I do the same in the real world. Why would anyone ascribe to anything less than trying to acheive their maximum?
|
|
|
|
|
phugganut
Jan 31, 2004, 2:00 AM
Post #42 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
|
In reply to: In reply to: BTW Kodos, who cares if the climbs are easy? While it's fun to push your limits, it's also fun to do easy climbs on good rock in beautiful scenery with good people. ...I never have fun on easy climbs.
That's too bad, b/c IMHO you are missing out on some fun stuff.
In reply to: Today, doing an easy climb for fun would be like driving six hours to climb the stairs at your house. There is no point, for me.
IMO it's not at all the same. The inside of my house isn't scenic or beautiful; it's just a spartan bachelor pad. It smells like a bachelor pad and the smog from outside creeps in. It's nothing like doing a multi-pitch climb in a beautiful area. That's like saying that a relatively flat hike in a sublime wilderness is the same as walking down my hallway. Do you really think that way?
In reply to: Why climb if not for pushing your limits? In general, this is the problem I have with the current crop of today's climbers. Too much talk about feelings and spirituality and good friends.
Yeah, spirituality and feelings and good friends suck! Why waste your time on such stupid, useless things :roll:
In reply to: Climbing is all about pushing limits ( by definition) and here is why: It is unnatural, and there is no reason to climb. Just being on vertical rock is entering a realm that humans may not belong.
You must be a sport climber- not that there's anything wrong with that.:lol:
IMO climbing IS about pushing your limits, but that's not all it is. That's what I was trying (unsuccessfully) to explain in my previous post. It's too bad that you only enjoy one aspect of climbing when there is so much more to it. I mean, it's cool that you find enjoyment in climbing super hard all the time, but it's also cool that others SOMETIMES like to climb for other reasons. Can't you see that?
In reply to: Why would anyone ascribe to anything less than trying to acheive their maximum?
Oh come on now. Just because a person isn't pushing their limits ALL the time doesn't mean that they're settling for mediocrity. For example:
I like to play basketball. Sometimes I play with one group of people and we play HARD! We work at it and get better and it's great. However, sometimes I play 'ball with other people and we do it just for fun. We don't foul hard around the basket or run set plays. Hell, sometimes we even just play h-o-r-s-e. And do you know what? It's FUN!
Also, I like to backpack on occasion. SOmetimes I really push myself and pack 20+ miles a day over rugged terrain for a week or so. But it's also fun to backpack just a few miles in, set up a basecamp, and explore a new area.
ONe final example: I'm good at my job, and I take pride in pushing myself to be better at it. However, sometimes it's fun to just flirt with the medical records lady or to take a long lunch and put off documenting until the next day.
Anyway, I can see your point about pushing your limits. It's a very valid point and I also enjoy pushing my limits. So why can't you see why someone would like, on occasion, to just have fun and see beautiful sights? If you really want to be Joe Hardman, then you could just, as you said in a previous post, climb it with no hands.
Stick was asking for 5.7 & 5.8 climbs, not superhard climbs that he/she has to fall several times on to send.
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jan 31, 2004, 2:01 AM
Post #43 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
Wow I had to go get a towel after all that spray. Thanks for letting us know why you climb drkonos but that doesn't have anything to do with this thread. If you don't like solar slab that's fine. You made your point.
I think solar slab is classic for its grade. Another great long route is frogland 5.8 in Black Velvet Canyon.
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Jan 31, 2004, 2:41 AM
Post #44 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
I was thinking of the Nordwand on the Eiger... It is *only* a 5.7 route. :)
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Jan 31, 2004, 2:43 AM
Post #45 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Cassin Ridge 9,000 feet. 5.8
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Jan 31, 2004, 2:46 AM
Post #46 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Come to think of it, the Shining Wall on G4 has some 5.7 rotten marble and is 7,500 feet. 2nd place.
|
|
|
|
|
chugach001
Jan 31, 2004, 5:26 PM
Post #47 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 311
|
Hey crackjammer,
You got me all excited, but I got questions...how many roped pitches on these? I'm familiar with the Grand and it's a long way from the valley floor to the NW Ridge - am I remembering this right? Also, from memory and what I can tell in the Moynier/Fiddler Sierra book, Lone Pine NR is about eight 5th class pitches.
How about Sleese? That is definately on my hit list. Is there really 27 fifth class pitches? If so, I'm on my way.
Hey, Jhump - good call on the Cassin.
Crackjammer wrote:
1. Complete Northwest Ridge from the Valley floor on the Grand Teton - 6,100 feet high, max. 5.7
2. Complete North or Northeast Ridge from the Desert Floor on Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra. Both about 7,000 vertical feet to mid 5th class.
3. Complete Northwest Ridge on Mount Logan, North Cascades. Grade V 5.8, almost 3 miles of ridgeline.
4. Direct North Pillar on Mount Slesse in British Columbia. Grave V 5.8, 27 pitches.
|
|
|
|
|
crackjammer
Feb 2, 2004, 4:44 PM
Post #48 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53
|
In reply to: Hey crackjammer, You got me all excited, but I got questions...how many roped pitches on these? I'm familiar with the Grand and it's a long way from the valley floor to the NW Ridge - am I remembering this right? Also, from memory and what I can tell in the Moynier/Fiddler Sierra book, Lone Pine NR is about eight 5th class pitches. How about Sleese? That is definately on my hit list. Is there really 27 fifth class pitches? If so, I'm on my way.
The lower portion of the Northwest Ridge down at the South Fork of Cascade Canyon is scrambling. It steepens to 5th class at just below 10,000 feet, providing almost 4,000 feet of moderate 5th class rock with some 4th class. If done in it's entirety, it is a FANTASTIC climb. There is something very pleasing to me about long alpine routes like this and the ones on Lone Pine Peak. Try it!
Slesse's North Pillar is all 5th class and exposed on a major feature on a large mountain. Most of the pitches are between 5.6 and 5.8. This would take a herculean effort to do in one day, unless you simulclimbed it. Expect to bivouac atleast once.
|
|
|
|
|
jer
Feb 2, 2004, 6:03 PM
Post #49 of 55
(6022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2000
Posts: 426
|
In reply to: It is a slog. Beulahs Book has two 5.8 moves and a bunch of 5.5 climbing. Johnny Vegas is 2 ultra soft pitches of 5.7 and one craptacular pitch of 5.3 Solar Slab is Ok. Like it's name suggests, it tends to lean inwards. The combination of climbs is most likely the least exposed 1500 feet of climbing one could possible do and still maintain 5th class conditions. This, coupled with a short approach (from a Red Rock perspective ~ 30 minutes), and bolted anchors, makes these climbs the quintesential girlfriend/nOOb outings. 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
What the? If you are comfortable w/o a rope, you can do this entire line with the gulley start in a couple hours. I did it base to base in 1:45. Slog? Nah...but true, I did pass alot of girlfriend/noobs along the way. I downclimbed the gulley raps to the climbers right of the route, then downclimbed SS gulley-not too bad. I thought Beulahs and Jonny V was okay, but not as much fun as the upper slabs. Came back and simulclimbed it a couple years later. Just as fun...no, it wasn't "hard", but it was better than a rest day on the strip.
Jer
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Feb 3, 2004, 10:10 PM
Post #50 of 55
(6020 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
It's nowhere near the longest, but Crimson Chrysalis in RR is definitely full value. How do you top 1000' feet of incut jugs? It's also pretty consistently 5.6-5.7 the whole way up, with a light 5.8 crux or two thrown in for good measure. No stupid scrambles. No obsene cruxes.
PS - The descent sucks (rappel the route), but the climb is worth it. Get there early to be the party-throwing-ropes-on, instead of the party-having-ropes-thrown-on.
|
|
|
|
|
crackjammer
Feb 4, 2004, 3:42 PM
Post #51 of 55
(5421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53
|
In reply to: There must be something on MT Stuart in the WA Cascades.
The Complete North Ridge with the Gendarme is 20 pitches, but it is 5.9. Oh well, close enough.
|
|
|
|
|
brianinslc
Feb 4, 2004, 5:13 PM
Post #52 of 55
(5421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
|
In reply to: -Chrimson Chrisalis is like 500' max -and how tall is Devils Tower
So, CC you can rap 5 times with a single 60 meter rope? I don't think so... A bit longer than that...
One loooong pitch on Walt Bailey Memorial on Devil's Tower and you can walk to the top. So, height wise, works out to 300 or more feet, but depends on the route. Some of the easier multi pitch have pretty short pitches.
Durrance Ridge on Symmetry Spire in the Tetons has a few pitches (toss in another route). Ditto the CMC route on Moran.
How 'bout the north face of Cephron in Glacier? Or one of them other long routes in Glacier (Montana). Have to do some research...
Brian in SLC
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Feb 4, 2004, 11:03 PM
Post #53 of 55
(5421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
In reply to: -Velucian Blind and Moon Goddess aretes both 5.7 or 5.8 left of the Sun Ribbon Arete. By the way Dark Star was mentioned and its alot more hype than anything else, not that long or hard or good. -There must be something on MT Stuart in the WA Cascades. and honorable mentions to -anything on the N side of Tahquitz 900' 4th class to 5.12 2hr from LA and San Diego -Beckey route on Liberty Bell N Cascades. although i've never done it it would be alot more fun than all the chossy, ridge and traverse slogfeasts mentioned. and Whats that 5.5 in the Needles? Dragons tail, green dragon, puff the magic dragon? tops out at the fire lookout doesn't it, thats long.
Aw! come on! Tahquitz is crowded enough!
Whodunit and Consolation are two of the best +/- 1000ft lines in the state though.
The one at the Needles is Magic Dragon. One pitch of 5.8 and then it goes up the "Dragon's Back" forever at about 5.4 or less. Only one piece of pro per pitch, or so though on the easy stuff. The anchor possibilities are about 165-1/2ft apart for several pitches and not visible till you are right on top of them. It was real exciting with a 50m rope! A 60m would relieve a lot of the "You have 5 feet left", "Where the hell's a crack?" blues.
Although easy, the views of the rest of the Needles are incredible and it feels like you are on the back of some giant sand worm from Dune. Go thru the "Dragon's Mouth" at the top to add a 5.8 finish instead of walking off Last belay is from the lookout.
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Feb 6, 2004, 12:59 AM
Post #54 of 55
(5421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
-Beckey route on Liberty Bell N Cascades. although i've never done it it would be alot more fun than all the chossy, ridge and traverse slogfeasts mentioned.
I have soled the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, and I have soloed some of these "chossy" ridge traverses. Dude, you got it backwards. The Becky route is about 400' tall, and any of the Sierra traverses will have gendarmes that big. Think of doing the Becky route, followed by a few hundred smaller spires ranging from V0 boulders to a couple of pitches. You also have to downclimb each one. Sierra granite is way better than mossy crumbly Golden Horn Cascade granite. The reason so few people know about these long traverses is because very few are actually capable of doing them. Your comment illustrates this fact; these traverses are on a scale that most climbers can not think of. Really really......
|
|
|
|
|
mungeclimber
Feb 6, 2004, 1:25 AM
Post #55 of 55
(5421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 648
|
In reply to: These in Yosemite come close to your requirements: Royal Arches SF of North Dome link up. Snake Dike...with the slabs at the top gets you that high. Reg. Route on Fairview Dome, very short and aidable 5.9 crux, the rest is more moderate Munginella/Selaginella link up on 5 open books. Tenaya Peak. 14 pitches. Book says 5.5, but you can deviate a bit and make it harder. This is one of the most beautiful routes I've been on.
Tenaya Peak, mmmmmmmmmmmmm, must go...
|
|
|
|
|
|
