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jetace
Mar 21, 2002, 1:14 AM
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My favorite, thus far, was Super Slab at Smith Rock. I've only done a few trad climbs, but that one had so much variety for placement, it was really a good route for people learning how to trad climb!
Rock On
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radistrad
Mar 21, 2002, 1:24 AM
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Ah yes I have done Super Slab, great climb.
My favorite single pitch trad climb is Lunatic Fringe 5.10c, Yosemite Valley.
I love this climb. It start out with 30' of 5.7 hands. Then you get to a small crack that is the first crux, thin fingers to thin hand. This leads into enjoyable jamming with one fist jam. From here there is another 10c crux throught some flakes, this takes you to the last section, beautiful hands to a thin crack and the anchors.
If you ever get to the valley this is a must do on the 5.10 crack circuit.
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rrrADAM
Mar 21, 2002, 12:43 PM
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3rd Pillar Of Dana Mountain located just outside of Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne (East) Entrance.
It's a 7 pitch 5.10b overlooking Mono Lake. To quote the locals... "If it saw more traffic, it would be in 50 Classic Climbs as it's better than the Regular Route on Fairview Dome and South Crack up DAFF Dome combined." (Both in 50 CC's)
It has a 2 1/2 hour approach, hence the low traffic.
rrrADAM
[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-03-21 04:44 ]
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crswallrat
Mar 21, 2002, 7:08 PM
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If you can catch it without a huge lineup, my favorite would have to be Nutcracker, in Yosemite. Not only does it have a sweet history (put up by RR with nuts only) but the climbing is way fun but not hard. Each pitch is fun and you just have to love a climb that you have to build your own anchor after each pitch. And the mantle move on the last pitch makes you feel like a hero (provided you don't botch the next section, pitch off the whole thing and break some bones). Yeah, Nutcracker rocks.
[ This Message was edited by: crswallrat on 2002-03-21 11:08 ]
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metoliusmunchkin
Mar 21, 2002, 9:24 PM
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The first outdoor route I ever did, was (at the time) quite a difficult 5.5, where I seconded an experienced trad climber. At this point in time I completely forget the name of this route, though I do know that it is situated at Rattle Snake Point, Ont. It is a beautiful climb, ranging between either 90, and 120 ft. in height. A truly amazing scene once reaching the top!
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climbjs
Mar 21, 2002, 10:10 PM
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I like El Matador on Devil's Tower, Wyoming. I've seen it rated .10d/.11a, but the climbing itsself is not difficult. It is super exposed and brutal on your legs.
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jcclimber
Mar 21, 2002, 10:23 PM
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I would have to say Wartleys(sp?) Revenge at Smith Rock. It is an 11a that is pretty exceptional!
Jake out
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sizzlechest
Mar 21, 2002, 11:31 PM
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the equinox in j-tree
no comment and super crack in the gunks
anything in the bugaboo's
fastest gun in the adirondacks
astroman
anything on the cookie cliff
scared peaches at lake louise
[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-03-21 15:50 ]
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climb512
Mar 21, 2002, 11:33 PM
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Being fairly new to climbing(less than a year). I have been limited to the New York and Ontario area. My favorite lead to date has been at the Gunks, Madam G's Wulst. It goes a 5.6 and is only 3 pitches, but it has a hanging belay,a small overhang at the finish,overall a nice route. I thought it better than High Exposure.
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rrrADAM
Mar 22, 2002, 3:23 PM
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sizzle...
That's your answer to "What's your favorite and why?"
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agrauch
Mar 22, 2002, 5:43 PM
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For sentimental reasons, my favorite is Main Liner, 5.9, at Lumpy Ridge. This was my first big route and my first 5.9 lead.
Main Liner is also one of the best moderates at Lumpy and is a must do. The climbing is varied and the stemming crux is fun. Only downside is that it can be crowded on the weekend.
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pbjosh
Mar 23, 2002, 6:53 AM
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My favorite(s) is a tie here:
O'Kelley Crack - simply gorgeous to look at and wonderful to climb, nice and clean and sustained. Sweetest hands ever. Makes Illusion Dweller seem like choss!
Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn - The moves onto and off of Traitor Horn are classic and the position is completely unrivaled...
Close but not quite favorite are Bearded Cabbage and More Monkey Than Funky... awesome moves, kind of "sensationalist" favorites but I'm a sucker for wild moves like that.
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rrrADAM
Mar 23, 2002, 3:23 PM
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Did you lead More Monkey Than Funky ??? If you did, you have "big balls of steel" man, my hat is off to you.
I tried that route on TR a couple years ago, and mine were more like "raisins".
rrrADAM
[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-03-23 08:08 ]
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greatgarbanzo
Mar 23, 2002, 3:57 PM
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I did the FA (arguably... I am the only one that I know of to have free climb the whole thing no falls) of this beautifull crack some years ago... I named it "LaPoderosa".
This is a perfect hands to fist crack on granite. The climbing is short (100 feet) but it goes through two excelent undercling roofs.
There is a bitching 1 day hike of approach (totally worth it). The route is located over 12,400 feet.
Definitely My Favorite.
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sizzlechest
Mar 24, 2002, 6:02 AM
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sorry rrr i was sort of tired when i responded, those are all favorites because of background scenary, spectacular natural lines, and just super fun to climb
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chirp
Mar 24, 2002, 6:57 AM
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Gotta be Crimson Chrysalis, right here in Red Rocks. [III] Superb line, 9 great pitches up a huge pillar. Unfortunately due to these qualities and more there is usually a hideous queue to get on it during peak season.
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apollodorus
Mar 24, 2002, 7:35 AM
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Regular route on Fairview Dome, Tuolumne. The crux is right off the ground, and then it's just continuous crack and knob climbing that's not too hard. Just a bunch of great pitches strung up a marvelous rock. It's like the Royal Arches big brother. When the Valley is 100 degrees, you'll want a windbreaker for this one. You can almost tie the belayer into the car bumper for the first pitch, it has that short of an approach. Recent beta says to get a really early start (like, in the dark with lamps) to avoid getting stuck behind another party.
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rrrADAM
Mar 24, 2002, 10:57 AM
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appolo... That's on my tick list for this Summer.
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crackaddict
Mar 24, 2002, 2:42 PM
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The regular route on Fairview Dome is definatly on of my favorites also. Did it last summer in June. Great views and killer ledges. We got there first but only saw one other party on route. Man those french can climb fast. These two guys past us and probably did the climb in 4 hours car to car.
Later
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radistrad
Mar 24, 2002, 3:59 PM
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Fairview dome is a great route. My recomendation for this route is to start early.
I like this climb becasue its long, fairly easy and its in Tuolumne.
I've done this route twice, I plan on returning to it this summer. We have been working on our trad all of 2001 and all of this year. Hopefully we'll be the ones doing it in 4 hours this summer.
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pbjosh
Mar 25, 2002, 5:03 AM
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rrradam - no I haven't led More Monkey Than Funky yet. I wouldn't be particularly scared too, however. I feel like the jams are so solid I could eat a sandwhich hanging from them. I am planning on leading it, but not quite yet, I'd like to be reasonably confident I can get up it cleanly (which I didn't do the one time I TR'd it and which I think I have at best a 50/50 chance of now) before I try, because if you blow the lip of the roof (by far the crux) you're hanging in space and it's probably a bitch to get back on, it might be easier to lower. Plus there'll be heinous rope drag on lead.
Doesn't mean it isn't a way way way cool route though. I'm not sure why people are so scared of it. I think if you can really jam 9 or 10a you can climb the roof, you just might not turn it when it goes down to super burly thin hands and the feet get really awkward under the roof where you can't see them any more and then you have to cut your feet and paste 'em above the lip - it's definitely way burly. Thus the name of the route.
..josh
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apollodorus
Mar 25, 2002, 6:31 AM
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Well, RRRADAAM,
As long as you'll be in the neighborhood, you should also do Cathedral Peak, and then it's little bro, Eichorn Peak. Maybe solo.
Tuolumne will rewrite your book.
Fab. Fabulous. Amazing. The feldspar crystals will become part of your mind. I swear.
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rrrADAM
Mar 25, 2002, 12:08 PM
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apollo... You don't have to sell Tuolumne to me, it's my favorite place in Ca, as I've climbed there plenty. I like it much better than The Valley.
rrrADAM
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felixthecat
Mar 26, 2002, 1:28 AM
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its really true about starting at the crack of dawn to get on fairview/regular route. luckily i live an hour away so if we got there too late we could just walk across the street to daff dome and do some routes there.
but i would have to say that my favorite trad route is serenity crack in the valley. i just thought it was such a beautiful and aestetic line despite the pin scars on the first pitch. and the gain of elevation along with the views and splendid hand and rings jams was awesome. my favorite pitch would have to the last pitch. its awesome 10a lieback flake which is so bomber to the crux of the climb; 10d finger crack. that was the only part i didnt like as much cause there was no way i could lead it,the 10d. i tried and fell so i french freed it but i plan on returning back this summer and completing it the right way. anyway ive done it twice and i am still stoked on it.
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bigbouda
Apr 12, 2002, 7:11 PM
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Montagne d'Argent (silver mountain) M&M crack 5.8, beautiful trad hand crack, no rest and steep all along. Yummmmmm M&M's.
[ This Message was edited by: bigbouda on 2002-04-12 12:47 ]
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atg200
Apr 12, 2002, 7:40 PM
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North Chimney on Castleton Tower III 5.9 - everything from face, fingers, hands, fist, offwidth, and chimney in 4 great pitches on a cool tower. Much better than Kor-Ingalls.
South Face of Petit Grepon III 5.8 - nice long hike in, 8 great *steep* pitches, and one of the wildest summits I've ever been on. All that in the middle of the Rocky Mountain National Park backcountry.
Kor's Flake at Lumpy Ridge III 5.7+++ - 5 wonderful pitches, maybe the best 5.7 in Colorado.
Yellow Ridge at the Gunks 5.7- - a little bit of fatness for flavor on pitch 1, and the wildest 5.6 pitch I've ever been on on pitch 3. way better than High E, Shockleys Ceiling, and as good as Madame Gs.
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camhead
Apr 12, 2002, 7:49 PM
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Well, I've yet to do any multi-pitch. My undeniably FAVORITE climb is Incredible Handcrack (10c) at Indian Creek. I know, it's not unusually difficult or anything, but it still rules! Nothing but perfect, aesthetic handjams, good rests, a beautiful roof... classic.
It epitomizes the FLOW and RHYTHM of good sandstone cracks, even more than Supercrack, in my opinion.
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rednow
Apr 12, 2002, 9:02 PM
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I have Three that tie..
Marshall's Maddness at Seneca Rocks WVA. Its a short line that has great pro. The are several good rests and very interesting exposure.
Jam Crack In Yosemite. Its a perfect hand crack to a great finger crack at the 2nd pitch.
Bishop's Terr Yosemite. CLASSIC. Long perfect crack systems of different style. a MUST do when going to the Valley
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jgorris
Apr 12, 2002, 9:41 PM
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Fantasia. Lover's Leap, CA. Bold, fantastic moves and challenging route finding.
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bldr
Apr 12, 2002, 9:44 PM
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my fav would have to be espresso crack 5.12a at little egypt, mainly because its hard and fairly sustained fingers
some day soon I hope to be man enough to lead it
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bigwalling
Apr 14, 2002, 11:34 PM
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I think Sixty Nine 5.13c R in Squamish is on of the sweetest trad routes. I have not climbed it though. The thing has a #2 stopper protecting the crux. The other routes near it look sweet also they are 5.12b and up. Heres pic of sixty nine.
[ This Message was edited by: bigwalling on 2002-04-14 16:40 ]
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rrrADAM
Apr 21, 2002, 1:36 PM
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#2 Stopper ??? I would have a serious accident in my pants with the prospect of a fall on that.
bigwall... You have "big balls of steel" man.
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beyond_gravity
Apr 21, 2002, 9:33 PM
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Crusin' for buggers. It's a 300m 5.4 that I simul climbed. It's airly with hardly any pro placements...A True scramblers dream
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holygecko
Apr 22, 2002, 2:52 PM
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Thanx for posting this topic you guys are genious this helps me alot I am trying to plan a cool summer of climbing and these places sound cool
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benfieldj
May 8, 2002, 12:18 AM
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I would have to say my favorites are the Great Arch 5.5 at Stone Mountain in North Carolina and Cenotaph Corner 5.10c on Dinas Cromlech in North Wales.
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tim
May 8, 2002, 12:24 AM
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Yeah flave! Great Arch is soooo fun. One of my Vermonter climbing partners of days past puts up sick mixed routes (M6+), runs laps on Fastest Gun at Poke-O (5.10+ R) and he LOVED that route. Talked to him for the first time in two years this winter and sent him a pic of my girlfriend on it, he recognized it instantly.
It's sooooooo easy but sooooo fun.
On the other end of the scale, I liked Airy Interlude at the Needles, Overseer at Josh, and Vertigo at Cannon because they all scared the shit out of me. Soler (at Seneca) has a great finish and is pretty airy too. Basically anything with shit-your-pants exposure gets a huge pop from me :-)
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-07 17:25 ]
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iclimbtoo
May 8, 2002, 12:41 AM
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Bastille Crack and Rewritten on the Red Garden Wall both in Eldo Can. Also the Second Flat Iron outside Boulder.
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rickoldskool
May 8, 2002, 6:55 AM
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WOOOOOO!All this climbin' talk about routes gets my head spinnin! The most beautiful line you'll ever do is "Silk Road" 11b at Calaveras Dome. 12 pitches, straight up! Crack, corners (OHH the corners), face. It's been compared to astroman (really, there IS only one Astroman). Check climbing issue 194 for a refresher. I even made the big time in that one, I'm the weee little belayer SH!T I'm goin tomorrow, I can't take it
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jtcronk
May 9, 2002, 5:22 AM
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Overall, my favorite trad route has been Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday linkup in Yosemite. Sereneity goes at 5.10D. The crux pitch is excellent. There is only one "filler" pitch at 5.6. The rest is all 5.9-5.10D. Great 8 pitch day climb!
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bb_guns
May 13, 2002, 5:17 PM
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My favorites:
Wind River Range, WY: Pingora, Northeast Face
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO: The Scenic Cruise
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bradhill
May 20, 2002, 7:08 PM
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My favorite single pitch thus far is Darkness 'till Dawn on Redgarden Wall in Eldo. Hard 5.9 sustained throughout the entire 60m pitch with a great variety of techniques necessary. Jams from finger to fist, face moves, liebacks, stemming, crimps, the works.
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jhump
May 22, 2002, 4:45 PM
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NE Buttress on Pingora is tops. Also West Pole , Soler, & Madmen Only (Seneca), Rock Wars (Red), Tricouni Nail (Needles SD), Normal Route Direct (Whitehorse), Bastille (Eldo), Celibate Mallard (New)........but I think this list will be updated (replaced) after my first trip to the Valley.
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jbeta
May 23, 2002, 5:19 PM
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My favorite route woulld definately be Lotus Flower Tower in Canada's Cirque of the Unclimbables--2000 feet of beautiful and sustained, but never (or hardly ever) desperate crack climbing in a beautiful and remote setting. It really doesn't get much better.
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tim
May 23, 2002, 6:03 PM
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You've climbed the Lotus Flower Tower? That rules... I have a copy of 50 CC's but since the weather seems to only be 'in' for about 2 weeks a year, and it costs an assload to get up there from where I am (eg. the Inconnu lodge fly-in service seems like the only good bet) I have not really considered it seriously... those pictures make me drool though.
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-23 11:03 ]
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uncle_big_green
May 23, 2002, 7:32 PM
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My favorite trad climb is Wunch's Dihedral (we did aid the last 12 pitch) at the S. Platte.
Close contenders are Cornflake Crack at Looking Glass, NC and Dopey Duck at Shortoff Mtn., NC.
I tend to agree with the other poster about Darkness 'til Dawn being one of the best pitches at Eldo (but its about 35-40 m).
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evergreen
Jun 2, 2002, 6:43 AM
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The Mace in Sedona would be my pick. The setting is so cool and the jump back at the top way fun. Not the best stone but not too bad which keeps the crowds down a bit.
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roughster
Jun 2, 2002, 6:58 AM
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Open Book 5.9 at Tahquitz
Every pitch is classic, and its like a your climbing a little piece of history every hold you touch
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crackaddict
Jun 2, 2002, 2:22 PM
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Incredible Hand Crack 10c
Made my list now.
Woo! Hoo! Onsighted it!
Fun but it has alot of miles on it!
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adampaulgable
Jul 2, 2002, 5:14 AM
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My two favorite routes,
Kim in Vedawou SP? Because it has good placements the hole way splits a perfect face and is very photogentic. If it were longer than 40 feet and maybe 140 feet it would be the best route i know of.
Also New Wave to Assemblyline on Devils tower was awesome. New Wave has funky movement and is a lot of fun, but Assemblyline is textbook jam after jam.;Definately reccomended
Thats my to cents
Adam
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rock_diva
Jul 6, 2002, 2:48 AM
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For multipitch trad routes, I'd have to say my favorite is the East Buttress of El Cap. Why? It's El Cap. Enough said.
Single pitch... it's gotta be Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek Canyon. At the risk of sounding redundant, I love it because it has INCREDIBLE hand jams... and a great overhanging section.
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clam
Jul 7, 2002, 6:12 PM
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So far, my favorite single pitch trad route is Bishop's Terrace, Church Bowl, Yosemite Valley. It's a beautiful 5.8 crack climb.
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astone
Jul 7, 2002, 6:36 PM
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"Eat" at Enchanted Rock, Texas and "The Sensuous Mortician" at Red Rocks, Nevada.
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smellydude
Jul 7, 2002, 8:09 PM
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For a great line and atmosphere mine is Sunblessed 5.10b on the Backside of the Chief. The 40m second pitch of finger and hands is not to be missed.
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mountainmonkey
Jul 11, 2002, 4:14 PM
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By far the Casual Route on the Diamond. One of the most beautiful and challenging walls I have ever seen. Beautiful crack climbing with nice face moves now and then and incredible exposure. (I should say it is a great climb once you leave Broadway because is is scary and loose before there). Makes the best one day adventure I have ever done.
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camhead
Aug 24, 2002, 2:30 AM
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I gotta say... now that I am stuck in Dallas and thinking about Southern Utah Wingate sandstone wistfully
Coyne Crack sounds really nice right now.
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arsenalcrater
Aug 24, 2002, 3:23 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 147
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Passport to Insanity...5.12b/c in the Grampians, Australia. This route was sick. A twenty plus foot roof that decended six plus feet in elevation throughout the crux.
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ergophobe
Sep 6, 2002, 1:11 AM
Post #57 of 84
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Registered: Jul 1, 2002
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I can definitely second some of the choices already mentioned like the Casual Route on the Diamond and Serenity/Sons in Yosemite. Honestly, I can't share the opinion about the Third Pillar of Dana - I just didn't like it that much - but it seems to have a lot of supporters.
Quote:
it's really true about starting at the crack of dawn to get on fairview/regular route.
Actually, I've had pretty good luck waiting until about 2:00 in the afternoon and letting the crowds clear a bit and then starting up. Obviously, you should be comfortable with the climbing for this strategy to work, but the upper pitches are easy and the descent isn't bad. Also, if you can climb mid-grade 5.10, Lucky Streaks is in the same neighborhood and is somewhat less crowded.
Has a single climb east of Colorado been mentioned? I have to mention a couple. For me, the climb that I have to mention is ....
1. Recompense with the Beast Flake variation, a.k.a RecomBeast (5.9) at Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire. The first pitch is a mediocre but respectable 5.7. The second pitch has a 5.9 move to get you onto the awesome Beast Flake, which has steep and easy climbing that gets you to a wonderfully exposed belay ledge. P3: Step around into the prominent corner (5.9). P4: up the amazing dihedral that you see from the parking lot (5.9). From here either walk to the top or P5: climb one of the finger cracks to the top (5.9).
- Perfect rock
- short approach
- gorgeous positions
- obvious natural line up major features
- road to the top (which meant that my wife was able to do this climb while recovering from her ankle b/c I could drive to the top and pick her up).
2. High Exposure (5.6) in the Gunks. The last pitch of High Exposure is one of the best pitches anywhere at any grade. Awesome exposure like the name implies. If you are a little stronger, do the Directissima start.
3. Thin Ice (5.10b) in the Needles. Two pitches, but man do you get a lot of mileage for your two pitches - they're about 47 and 57 meters respectively (10a and 10b). Very steep for a 5.10b granite climb.
4. My favorite route so far in Yosemite: the DNB - Direct North Buttress of Middle Cathedral (5.10b). This is a real odyssey. After 10 pitches you feel like you've put in a good day, but there are still eight pitches to go, some if which are fairly physical. In my opinion, this route is *way* better than the Steck-Salathe.
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sonso45
Sep 6, 2002, 7:21 PM
Post #58 of 84
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
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I loved the Steck-Salathe in a day, it was warm but shady in August, more varied than I expected; Days of Future Passed in Cochise Stronghold was long and the view superlative; Coatamundi at Granite Mtn was the most exposed, especially when falling at the lip (rope drag).
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gambler
Sep 7, 2002, 4:46 AM
Post #59 of 84
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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It's gotta be ASTROMAN because of the sustained,varied and beautiful cracks(from the incomprable enduro corner to the changing corners pitch with incredible face climbing to the infamous Harding slot)this climb has it all.
gambler
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bluesky
Sep 7, 2002, 5:30 AM
Post #60 of 84
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 296
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Grand Wall to Roman Chimney's on the Chief, Squamish BC!
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jbone
Sep 7, 2002, 6:55 AM
Post #61 of 84
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
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A Bolted one? He he
No Seriously...
Probably "Comes a Corner 5.10" At Smith Rocks. I got it back in 95, and haven't put a piece in unless it's to get to my Sport anchors on a new bolted line.
I did some Paradise Forks Routes a few years back but I only put pieces in when I got to a standing ledge and wanted to play with the Gear, it seemed quicker to solo them..
Be Safe
JBone
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dune
Sep 12, 2002, 11:24 PM
Post #62 of 84
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 80
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I gotta agree with rrradam, 3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana just outside Tuolumne. It's the best I've done for sure. Hike is 2 1/2 hours only if you know where you're going, but it's SOOO figgin beautiful it doesn't matter, just start early. Situated at 11,500' the view over Mono Lake almost 5000' below is breath taking. You can see like 100 miles into Nevada.
But so what about the view. The last pitch is the best 100+ feet of climbing I've ever seen with my own eyes and touch with my own hands. It's as if half a dozen (5 star) 5.9/V0 granite boulder problems were stacked one after the other. the pitch goes at 5.9+ or 5.10- depending on whom you ask, but ratings can't even begin to descibe it. The technical cruxes are lower on the route and variations range from 10b to thin and sorta runnout 10c (not too bad actually with solid micro-nut placements).
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climbincajun
Sep 12, 2002, 11:39 PM
Post #63 of 84
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Registered: Sep 6, 2002
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though my trad experience is limited, my favorite to date has been Overhang Bypass on Intersection Rock at J-tree...well, the second pitch anyway. beautiful rock and awesome exposure for the grade!
im sure ill have a new favorite soon...
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jefesuave
Sep 13, 2002, 12:15 AM
Post #64 of 84
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Registered: Sep 2, 2002
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Granted, Ive only done 5 trad routes in my life, but my favorite would have to be second coming at looking glass...not exactly a beginner route though...heh...oh well
jeff
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bbevans039
Sep 13, 2002, 4:03 PM
Post #65 of 84
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 34
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my favorite trad
CCK ( Cascading Crytsal Kaleidoscope ) Gunks
High E is pretty nice as well
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takeit4granite
Sep 15, 2002, 5:41 PM
Post #66 of 84
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Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 93
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Northern Lights in Squamish
11 pitches of energy sapping hard cracks, no line ups and stellar views!
This line is way better than Astro Man and gets no Props!
You want good hard Trad GET ON IT!!
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bullit
Sep 15, 2002, 7:08 PM
Post #67 of 84
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Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 22
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RRADAM You said..."3rd Pillar Of Dana Mountain ...it's better than the Regular Route on Fairview Dome and South Crack up DAFF Dome combined." (Both in 50 CC's)
Did you mean to say "West Crack on Daff Dome"? Or South Crack on Stately Pleasure Dome?
I've done West Crack and it is by far my favorite trad climb to date. Haven't done the regular route on Fairview though. Next year!!!! West crack is great. Slanting crack to a cool roof to great fingers! Well worth it!
Scott
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dune
Sep 16, 2002, 7:37 PM
Post #68 of 84
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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Yeah Scott I mean Bullit. that's what he meant alright. One must understand that Roper's book The 50 Classics isn't titled The 50 best. Reg Rt on FD and WC on DAFF although excellent are not in the same ball park as 3rd Pillar. 3rd Pillar is overshadowed in difficulty and mangnitude of routes like Astroman and Levitation 29 but it's in thier league as far as quality and apeal.
A must-do for any serious 5.10 leader if you find yourself up in Tuolumne. Just as FD and WC are for 5.9 enthusiasts. Those routes are crowded though
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winkwinklambonini
Sep 17, 2002, 2:35 AM
Post #69 of 84
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 1579
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Magnolia Thunderpussy
Granite Mountain, AZ
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gambler
Sep 19, 2002, 2:23 AM
Post #70 of 84
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 85
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Yeah...takeitforgranite Northern Lites is awesome as well as University wall,Freeway(go for the Big Slick,Deisel Overhang and Expresslane variations)and Grand Wall(with the Left Side and Roman Chimneys)...Squamish in general is one of my favorite areas.
gambler
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horatio_felacio
Sep 20, 2002, 6:57 PM
Post #71 of 84
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Registered: Sep 20, 2002
Posts: 12
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i just started climbing a month ago, but my favorite one-pitch trad route is definitely jennifers world at sunset in chattanooga.
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uncle_big_green
Sep 25, 2002, 3:05 AM
Post #72 of 84
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Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 261
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quit trolling HF.
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horatio_felacio
Sep 25, 2002, 4:21 PM
Post #73 of 84
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Registered: Sep 20, 2002
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what? at least half of that was true.
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uncle_big_green
Sep 27, 2002, 4:38 AM
Post #74 of 84
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Registered: May 15, 2002
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nothing more than half, either. It was even funny (at least to those familiar with JW).
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rollingstone
Oct 4, 2002, 12:34 AM
Post #75 of 84
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Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 273
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Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, WA. Great route, classic climbing, done by Fred Beckey, of course. Perhaps the finest individual pitch I have ever had the pleasure to lead is the Pancake Flake, on the Nose. A great climb along the Columbia River is Blood, Sweat, and Smears (5.10c) at Beacon Rock.
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coclimber26
Oct 5, 2002, 7:27 PM
Post #76 of 84
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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Bastille Crack, Eldorado Canyon
Why?...Because it sucks up cams like a shark!
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samshafer
Oct 5, 2002, 8:44 PM
Post #77 of 84
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Registered: May 27, 2000
Posts: 127
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Tulgey Wood, Devil's Tower. 5.10a/b? Great variety of climbing in a full rope length. Tree close enough to bottom to anchor rope for Soloist.
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rushjunkie11
Oct 11, 2002, 2:14 AM
Post #78 of 84
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Registered: Jul 5, 2002
Posts: 39
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Either New Diversions (5.10)at Whitesides Mtn., NC. (A runout 10 pitch monster with the ninth pitch totally unprotected but only 5.3)
OR
Fat Dog (5.7) at looking glass, NC. It's just a long chimney/offwidth, but it rocks.
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phil_nev
Oct 13, 2002, 1:25 PM
Post #79 of 84
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
Posts: 361
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slave girl at werribee gourge, checkmate at arapilies, kachoong at arapilies
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tradklime
Oct 13, 2002, 5:58 PM
Post #80 of 84
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
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The Naked Edge: history, position, exposure, view, quality movement.
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 16, 2002, 3:07 AM
Post #81 of 84
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
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Corrugation Corner (5.7) at Lovers Leap. I can't imagine a 5.7 being any more exposed or steep than this one (because of the nature of the formation at Lovers Leap). Super Sweet.
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tim
Oct 20, 2002, 4:05 PM
Post #82 of 84
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
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Try High E or Ecstasy, I seem to recall Corrugation Corner being less steep than either. (I've climbed all 3 over the years) My memory could be failing me (we did smoke someone else's weed that night), and High E is ''only'' a 5.6, but the point remains...
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milesdesbrie
Oct 20, 2002, 5:06 PM
Post #83 of 84
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 130
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Snake Dike on Half Dome in Yosemite. Beautiful approach, easy but runout climbing in a sea of granite, wonderful views from the top. A classic route in every sense.
Tied with:
Southeast buttress of Cathedral Peak in Yosemite. Beautiful alpine climbing, mostly 5.6 on blocky granite, with a summit of over 12,000 ft. Top out at the right time and you can see your shadow cast on Tuolumne Meadows.
[ This Message was edited by: milesdesbrie on 2002-10-20 10:38 ]
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climbracer
Oct 20, 2002, 6:01 PM
Post #84 of 84
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 226
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Loved High Exposure at the Gunks. Super exposure and excellent ledges. Lovers Leap is on my climbing hit list though. I haven't been on Ectasy yet at the Gunks. Madame G's is another excellent climb for exposure at the Gunks. However, I was benighted at the top and it is a long walk in the woods with cigarette lighters to get to the Uberfall. Too dangerous to rapel in the dark. Next year I'm going to the Gunks at least every other weekend and want to get at least one long New Hampshire trip in there too!! A three day weekend with rain just doesn't cut it for New Hampshire.
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