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pianomahnn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:04 AM
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So, numbers can lick my sizak.
However, I'm a gym routesetter, and the numbers are just part of the world.
So. . .I'm working on setting a 13c/d, maybe even 14a/b route.
I'm noit even sure if it's possible. . .it has to be.
So, whats the hardest you've seen in a gym? I don't give a shit if you did it, just if it existed.
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incogneato
Mar 19, 2004, 6:11 AM
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In France I have seen 8b+s inside, In my home gym the hardest was a 13d, and at the gym over town there is a 14a which is a nice 13c if you add two holds to clip.
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alwaysforward
Mar 19, 2004, 7:50 AM
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Your gym population is that strong? Pimp gym.
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barefeetnochalk
Mar 19, 2004, 11:23 AM
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The highest i have seen is 26 (5.12b) and V9 but we dont have too many gyms round here.
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drrock
Mar 19, 2004, 12:29 PM
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edit
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christophpahl
Mar 19, 2004, 1:04 PM
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http://competitie.climbing.nl/e=8c2/english.html - a competition 'bout FA of an indoors 8c.
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missedyno
Mar 19, 2004, 2:39 PM
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my bouldering gym has up to V11 -
rumour has it that at my other gym, there was a 13b set - and a full time (outdoor) climber came in, sent it, and said it was only 12D or so. ONLY 12D!!!
so i guess you can call it whatever grade you want, but you'll need the opinion of someone familiar with that grade to confirm...
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boss
Mar 19, 2004, 3:20 PM
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Saw a 13b/c within the last few months.
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xcel360
Mar 19, 2004, 3:23 PM
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The hardest route I saw in my gym in Florida was a .13c. It started about 40 feet left of the lead wall with an overhang on a very steep section, then transistioned through the steapest parts of the gym to the lead roof, then you could pull the roof. All on the smallest of holds I'm sure. You couldn't TR it due to it's traverse. You could only lead it.
I'm sure it's definetly possible to set really difficult routes in gyms, especially nowadays with all these great new holds coming out. They even have world famous boulder problems packaged together in hold sets now! Also depends on how past vertical the walls in your gym are. I'm sure that Earth Treks Timonium has a wall that could probably have .14's set on it. Check their site for pics.
<=glen=>
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tradman
Mar 19, 2004, 4:18 PM
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It's prefectly possible to set extremely hard grades indoor.
The gym I climb at has a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is basically a ladder, and 10 is 8a (about 5.13b).
Recently, the system has been upgraded because some of the stronger climbers were complaining about lack of availability at the top end. So a line consisting of very thin screw-on holds on a 45 degree overhang was added by Niall McNair (search), which he put at 11 (someplace in the low 5.14s), and which was promptly onsight flashed by Gary Vincent (search).
Gary's now working on a newer and even harder line of extreme fingernail crimpers on another overhang, which he's given 12. Nobody's sent it yet, including Gary, but I know it's been tried by at least two climbers with confirmed 5.14a/b routes under their belts, and both agreed that it's "brick hard" (trans: nearly impossible).
What's the limit? Don't know. All I can say for sure is that I feel like a right dead weight climbing beside those guys...
:wink:
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maika
Mar 19, 2004, 6:17 PM
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I'm pretty sure that we've had a .13 in our gym, but right now we onle have .12c/d and a V10.
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dredsovrn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:35 PM
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Mostly I see .11's as the harder climbs in the gym. A few .12's and an occasional .13. I did a .11d once and it was brutal. Way harder than some outdoor stuff I have done, but it may just not have been my style. A gym .13 is hard to imagine, but I can't climb any .13 at this point. Who is going to climb it in the gym anyway?
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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 6:41 PM
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In reply to: So, numbers can lick my sizak. However, I'm a gym routesetter, and the numbers are just part of the world. So. . .I'm working on setting a 13c/d, maybe even 14a/b route. I'm noit even sure if it's possible. . .it has to be. So, whats the hardest you've seen in a gym? I don't give a s--- if you did it, just if it existed.
We had a route set by Jason Campbell and Kodee Weir that went at either 13d or 14a, I'm not sure which. I think those two were the only ones who sent it.
We generally have one or two 13a's up.
-Jay
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karmaklimber
Mar 19, 2004, 6:57 PM
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The hardest boulder problem I've seen set in the gym I normally go to is a V12.
Hardest route I've seen was a 5.13
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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: So. . .I'm working on setting a 13c/d, maybe even 14a/b route. I'm noit even sure if it's possible. . .it has to be.
It's possible, but if you can't send it, how will you be able to rate it?
-Jay
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ikefromla
Mar 19, 2004, 7:08 PM
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i've seen 13c/d. Hard 13's and 14's are set all the time for comps. at world cup difficulty comps the routes have to be brutally hard to spit off some of those competitors.
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fullahsiffur
Mar 19, 2004, 7:43 PM
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My gym has a VERTICAL, yes VERTICAL, 13 b/c. Ninety feet on thin egdes and cracks, no plastic holds. The only thing 'plastic' about it is that it is man-made and indoors.
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madman_dan
Mar 19, 2004, 8:04 PM
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My gym was host to a recent bouldering comp and they had a replica of Black Lung set up which i believe is a V13. Needless to say no one got it.
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photon
Mar 19, 2004, 8:55 PM
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no it's impossible. Didn't you read the instructions that came with the holds? Can only be used for setting routes up to 5.12c. Even if you put one hold at the top of wall, nothing else, the routes .12c---
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incogneato
Mar 19, 2004, 9:06 PM
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In reply to: In our gym the super hard ones aren't even labeled. Since the #'s don't seem to translate to rock very well, it would be hard to grade. I think 5.hard would do it.
Yah, the same with our gym, they stay unrated (5.hard, V hard). Usually the strong climbers and route setters come to some agreement on the grade.
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daggerx
Mar 19, 2004, 9:48 PM
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I mang. a gym and set all the boulder problem "not routes" but Ive set around V12's but dont go much higher.
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incogneato
Mar 19, 2004, 10:00 PM
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In reply to: i've seen 13c/d. Hard 13's and 14's are set all the time for comps. at world cup difficulty comps the routes have to be brutally hard to spit off some of those competitors.
yah, but these are on world cup standard walls. 20+ meters high with lots of unrelenting angles.
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litleclimberchick
Mar 19, 2004, 10:32 PM
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the hardest route i've seen at my gym was a .13a/b
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rmiller
Mar 19, 2004, 10:45 PM
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I believe Kevin Thaw had a 14a set at Rockreation in LA when he was managing the route setting.
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madmax
Mar 19, 2004, 11:07 PM
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There's this really tough 5.8 in our gym. Nobody has been able to send it. Anyone wanna try? Oh, yeah, we also have a stout V0.
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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 11:30 PM
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In reply to: the hardest route i've seen at my gym was a .13a/b
I see you're in Claremont, so would that be Hangar 18? We've had harder routes from time to time. Before they all moved to Colorado, a lot of top-name climbers, like Tiffany Campbell, Lisa Rands, and others, used to train at Hangar 18. A couple years ago Kodee and Jason Campbell put up a 13+/14-, not that anyone but them could actually climb it.
-Jay
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ikefromla
Mar 19, 2004, 11:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i've seen 13c/d. Hard 13's and 14's are set all the time for comps. at world cup difficulty comps the routes have to be brutally hard to spit off some of those competitors. yah, but these are on world cup standard walls. 20+ meters high with lots of unrelenting angles. |
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ikellen
Mar 20, 2004, 2:48 AM
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Well, the grades in our gym are a 1-7 scale, with 1 being a ladder essentially, and 7 about 13b or so. The hardest lead/TR I've seen was 13D, rated at a 7+. It was an incredibly crimpy overhand to small tiny holds, hand foot matches, and just insanely hard moves in general. I never saw anyone do it.
There is one unmarked route, which is basically a bunch of small edges chipped into an overhanging arete. Pretty much every move is probably equal to the crux of a 5.12 or higher :lol:
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jt512
Mar 20, 2004, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: It's possible, but if you can't send it, how will you be able to rate it? Who said I can't?
It goes without saying.
-Jay
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andrewokc
Mar 20, 2004, 5:21 PM
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In reply to: My gym has a VERTICAL, yes VERTICAL, 13 b/c. Ninety feet on thin egdes and cracks, no plastic holds. The only thing 'plastic' about it is that it is man-made and indoors.
sorry bro. that isnt a 13b/c. believe me, its not that fucking hard. its like 12a
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curt
Mar 20, 2004, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: The hardest plastic sent. . .
Curt
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xanx
Mar 20, 2004, 7:46 PM
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my gym routinely has V11+ stuff set... there are almost always more than 2 problems that flat out will never get done (some taped, some untaped).
and we do have some strong climbers... 4 that climb V11 and up, plus more when we have comps.
at The Wall up in Vermont, Ben Hebb set a route he thought is about 5.14c... he was working Livin Astro 5.14c at the time, so i trust his assessment to within a grade or so... point it is was HARD.
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ikefromla
Mar 20, 2004, 8:16 PM
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WOW. I want to send 14c.. even if it's on plastic.. that is sick.
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elcommunisto
Mar 21, 2004, 8:43 AM
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Some register jockey at Boulder Rock Club said they have a .14a in there, although I've never seen it. My regular gym has a couple .13something routes, but I'm not exactly sure what they are.
EC
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overlord
Mar 22, 2004, 3:25 PM
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the final route in WC Kranj 2003 was considered about .13b and i think they stil had room to grow :wink:
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pianomahnn
Mar 23, 2004, 2:50 AM
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Well, looks as though the route is about 13d-ish.
Mission accomplished.
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axewielder
Mar 23, 2004, 2:01 PM
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we have maybe 5 or 6 12s, most of which are actually 11s...
also 2 13s, one of which is actually an '11 (sry routesetters if u are reading this) and the other (completely on a horizontal roof) is actually a 13 (minus)
There's also a 14a on the roof, which I have no clue about, but it is definitely harder than the 13-
Our boulder problems have gone to maybe V10
basically, it can be a big ego boost to climb at my gym
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hoofers_andy
Mar 23, 2004, 2:25 PM
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One time, on my boulder in my dorm room, I was setting some new problems.... and then, i was like, i need to set like a V14, so i did. it was definiately a V14, no question about it. I had the first ascent, so that means i get to rate it. i bet all you gym rats wish you could be as good as me.
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chronicle
Mar 23, 2004, 2:30 PM
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Seen 13c at my gym. In our bouldering arena, V11.
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rmiller
Mar 23, 2004, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The hardest plastic sent. . . That would be the red route, for sure--or maybe the blue one. :lol: :lol: Curt
No damnit! It is the green one next to the red one. These old guys just can't see color anymore. :D
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miuralover
Mar 23, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: the final route in WC Kranj 2003 was considered about .13b and i think they stil had room to grow :wink:
More like 8b or 8b+. A 13b (8a) wouldn't do a lot to separate the field at a world cup. Everyone would flash it.
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igcuesta
Mar 23, 2004, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: the final route in WC Kranj 2003 was considered about .13b and i think they stil had room to grow :wink: More like 8b or 8b+. A 13b (8a) wouldn't do a lot to separate the field at a world cup. Everyone would flash it.
Think so. The national spanish cup at Avilés had for the final a 8b+ (5.14a) route: a couple of climbers onsighted it. A week before the WC took place also in Aviles on the same structure, and the final was harder for sure.
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tonydevo
Mar 23, 2004, 4:37 PM
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Remember that video clip of Malc Smith in his room? He built a replica of 'Hubble' to train on. The "HPWASAF" problem was said to be the hardest plastic sent in the UK at the time, he only did it twice ever as I recall.
Gyms here sometimes set a .14 for training. A local guy built a 14b to suit his strengths and sent it while nobody else could come near sending.
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jsr
Mar 29, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Really hard routes are definitely possible. My highschool used to host comps every year on our wall (it was a good wall by any standards-donated by the wealthy father of a kid that liked climbing) and ppl would come from gyms in ontario and quebec to compete. I never thought to ask the routesetters name, but i believe the final route at the last comp i did there was 5.13a/b. It started at the bottom left of the wall and traversed diagonally up and to the right, then up a 30deg overhang that became a 45deg overhang which finally became a ~12-15ft roof, at the end of the roof you had to turn your body 90 degrees and climb towards the side of the roof at which point you had to get yourself out from under the roof and on to the final ~15ft of vertical wall. The guy that won the competition, sebastien (a kickass climber from a gym in quebec city), flashed it. Most other finalists fell at some point on the overhanging section and never even made it to the crux (which was getting around up on to the final vertical section followed by a couple really tough moves on miniscule holds). I remember the routesetter being very surprised seeing this sebastien kid flash his route. The second strongest climber fell off half-way through the roof on a hold we called the brain. It was this massive circular (about a foot in diameter) hold with about 20 single-digit pockets in it. They were all useless exceot for one in which you could hook your finger around on the inside. From just looking at it though, you couldn't tell which was the right hole. He fell off trying to find the right one. I remember thinking how strong this guy was too. He was doing one-armed chin-ups from full extension like they were nothing before the comp. Powerful or not, he came second to sebastien two years in a row.
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nthusiastj
Mar 29, 2004, 4:49 AM
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The BRC has a new 13 up right now. However, they usually only assign a + or - to the grades. I will tell you whether it is a 13c or d in about 5 years. When I can actually send it!
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fullahsiffur
Mar 29, 2004, 6:11 AM
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In reply to: sorry bro. that isnt a 13b/c. believe me, its not that f---ing hard. its like 12a
I must ask, did you stem? If so, you did not climb the route. Did you climb it clean, no rests, all the way?
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metrogroaz
Mar 29, 2004, 7:48 AM
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Our gym has a few .13's, i recently saw two guys getting off of them and saying "thirteen my ass, thats an eleven" to which the employee near them responded, "hahaha thats what i said" either way the ratings in the gym dont seem to really matter when you get outside cause multiple holds abound.
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gogo
Apr 14, 2004, 2:29 AM
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The hardest route we had at our gym was a 5.13a lead. Only one person in the gym could do it, and he was the one who set it. Started in a cave (our lead wall has a small cave), traverses the cave, comes out onto an overhang, four clips to top (approx. 40-50 feet high).
The hardest bouldering route actually marked is probably V6. There are harder ones, but we leave them unmarked.
We used to have a lot of routes at the 5.11b-5.12a range, but too many beginning climbers were complaining of difficulty, so now there are very few routes harder than 5.10, and the ones that are feel more like highball boulders.
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karmaklimber
Apr 14, 2004, 2:49 AM
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In reply to: Did you climb it clean, no rests, all the way?
What does resting have to do with climbing a route cleanly? Resting, not hangdogging.
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xanx
Apr 14, 2004, 2:57 AM
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for most gyms, u can generally subtract 2 to 3 grades from whatever is posted to get a much more accurate picture.
at the risk of sounding like a hypocritical prick, i'm gonna say that that isn't the case at my gym... the only time we rate things is durring comps, otherwise it is all unmarked. and at comps the ratings seem pretty dead on, if not sandbagged. we have things up that even the likes of Matt Bosley (climbs around V13, placed above Dave Graham in a few comps i think) won't even bother trying.
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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 14, 2004, 3:38 AM
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The gym at grey tn. had a 13.a. Hard grades can be achieved with a scarse amount of small, cheap, screw in holds attached to an overhanging wall. nuff said.
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reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 4:04 AM
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I have set many indoor gym routes for comps and yes it is very possible to set really hard routes. At most JCCA comps we are setting the harder grades at 13d and the "kids" are still sending and looking for more! The youth of today are going to be very impressive in a few years...I won't be suprised if we see a 16a in the next few years! Wow! :D
I can only send 13c/d on my very best day so I leave the really hard routes to others, 13- is a hard repoint for me and these kids are flying through them! :cry: Trust me when I say the jump from 13d to 14a is a really big jump and going from 13c/d to 14c/d is extremley impressive! This is how far I am from competing with the world's best and that gap makes crossing the Grand Canyon on a slack line seem like child's play.
I have been to world comps and asked the route setters what the top grade on the wall is and the highest I have heard so far is 14b/c. Which is pretty dam hard! And last time I checked not many climbers are onsighting 14's and even fewer are getting the 14c/d either outside or in. When I say a few I mean about 200 climbers in the world are in this realm. Most of the climbers in the world are recerational climbers and hover around 5.10
And to answer the crack about only being able to set plastic to a max of 12c....I hope you were joking. Read the instructions??? You sound like my mother!
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thegodfather
Apr 14, 2004, 4:30 AM
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current project hasnt been sent yet, but rumors are that it will go at .12a/b
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 19, 2004, 5:44 AM
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Hehehe, at our gym we count the number of holds and that is the grade. For instance if a climb has 16 holds on it then that climb is a 5.16b or v16. Beat that. :lol: :lol:
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wyattearp
Apr 21, 2004, 8:45 AM
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well I know Malcom smith has sent 8B+ V14 on his home woodie in scotland! Check out the footage on movementfilms.com
It is called SPLINTER!!!!
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tradman
Apr 21, 2004, 10:01 AM
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Yep, that's right. When Malc did that problem for the film it was the first time in a couple of years that he'd done it. He said it was the hardest problem he'd ever done, which for someone who's done dreamtime and a lot of other seriously scary stuff is saying something!
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tanslacks
Apr 21, 2004, 12:38 PM
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What is a gym?
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 21, 2004, 1:21 PM
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In reply to: we have maybe 5 or 6 12s, most of which are actually 11s... also 2 13s, one of which is actually an '11 (sry routesetters if u are reading this) and the other (completely on a horizontal roof) is actually a 13 (minus) There's also a 14a on the roof, which I have no clue about, but it is definitely harder than the 13- Our boulder problems have gone to maybe V10 basically, it can be a big ego boost to climb at my gym
That's because most of the climbers there climb at Rumney, where most of the routes have 1 or 2 hard moves. I bet all the 12's in our gym have 1 or 2 12 moves. I have tried most of them and it is usually a couple moves that give me trouble. As for that 14a, I have only seen Zeb attempt it and he had to pretty much hang on every move...so yeah it looks pretty tough. I don't claim to even know what a 14a feels like, though.
Josh
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theangryenchilada
May 4, 2004, 7:08 AM
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dude, i set a Grade VI, A4 5.16b/c+ M7 once, but the boss made me take it down cause a nine year old girl got hurt on the ninth pitch when she zippered and fractured her pelvis.
she let the 5.16 pitches no problem, but she couldnt place a copperhead for s#!+.
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wallace
May 4, 2004, 8:06 AM
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That's nothing. My gym has a route with black holds. The move between each is V2 and there are seven of them in a row. Even though it's not been fully linked up yet, no one thinks it's anything less than V14, (although if you're a member of the gym you get a 15 % discount so it would only be V11.9)
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teddy
May 4, 2004, 12:32 PM
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not entirely sure, but a guy who climbs about up to 33/5.14c set one at my gym that he couldn't finish and i didn't see anyone else do more than 2 moves... my gym doesnt grade though so not sure of the rating.
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thegodfather
May 11, 2004, 4:16 AM
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this isnt neccesarily in the gym, but anyone know those posts on the side of the highway going through yosemite? they're all marked V-whatever? well, i went over to the one labeled V-16 and climbed to the top. i freakin rule, i bouldered v-16...
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theishofoz
Oct 28, 2004, 4:38 AM
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our gym has 2 13a's and one b and one c
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hosh
Oct 28, 2004, 5:32 AM
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my gym's never had anything that I know of that's over 5.12. But everyone that's from over town that climbs here says that our ratings are sandbagged. So I guess that our 12's are really like a 12b or a 13-. But maybe not, I've never climbed a 12 anywhere else...
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korntera
Oct 28, 2004, 11:18 PM
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One gym i go to has routes up to 5.12+ and boulder problems around V6-V7 and the other gym has routes up to 5.11D and boulder problems up to V4. But they way under rate their problems at the second gym, i can barely do a V1 there and can do a v3 outdoor, however at the first gym i can do a v4.
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ikellen
Oct 28, 2004, 11:46 PM
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Hardest Route Currently is I believe 13a/b, and the hardest boulder problem is around V9/V10.
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katanaman
Nov 17, 2004, 3:23 PM
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i've seen supposed v11 and v12 inside a gym, they were the "expert" routes...i have no idea if they were around that rating, all i know is they were sit starts and i sure as hell couldnt do a single move on any of them. :?
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vcuspoon
Nov 17, 2004, 3:43 PM
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The hardest I have seen at my gym is 14a, currently we have a 5.13 up right now that is pretty solid.
cheers
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boadman
Nov 17, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Believe it or not, there is a "natural" route (all carved holds) at the Spot (in boulder) that is probably V15. Two parallel vanishing seams, about 20' of climbing, 20 to 30 degrees overhanging. Many very strong climbers have been unable to touch it. It actually looks like a beautiful sick problem you'd see outside.
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labster
Dec 8, 2004, 3:52 PM
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At my local gym the hardest route that I've seen is a 5.12d. One of the staff guys who regularly sends 12b and c says that it's probably a 13a or b though. No once has sent it clean yet including Noah Kaufman (search name) who climbs here quite a lot.
Hardest boulder route is one that's currently up and they said it's a v8 or v9.
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pianomahnn
Dec 10, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Nice to see this thread still gets some play. :-D
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