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ryan112ryan
Dec 10, 2004, 4:00 AM
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most common newbie mistakes, ones that you have made when you were learning to climb or common mistakes that you see newbies make. what are they?
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mendou
Dec 10, 2004, 4:06 AM
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my first rock shoes was not so tight, now with my second pair i feel the difference when i climb.
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tattooed_climber
Dec 10, 2004, 4:07 AM
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being stupid
one time in squamish....the party next to me....dude walks up to me..."hi, quick question...how do you tie in?"!!!!!!!!!!!!! (course i helped and the rest of my day was watching the two of the dudes to make sure they didn't die)
NOTE ::: just because you don't know something doesn't make you stupid...
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mounthubris
Dec 10, 2004, 4:22 AM
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My first trek into the rocky mountains at age 14, some fatefull quotes;
"Nah, its only a few miles, I dont need to bring water."
-hike to Flat Top summit, 11,000 ft
"Damn its hot, the lake cant be that cold."
"Thats snow, it cant be ice"
"Weeee I'm glisading....why do I hear rushing water under this snow?"
"I can climb that bigazz boulder...HA! I'm at the top....oh sh!t, how do I get back down!?"
"Marmots are nice"
Good times, good times.
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chitowngirl
Dec 10, 2004, 4:28 AM
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Mounthubris,
That one about water sounds very familiar :)
The other one that comes to my mind is:
"I don't need sunscreen, I'll only be out for a couple of hours"
-said I once in Moab in August. Learned that lesson real fast. :oops:
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gunksgoer
Dec 10, 2004, 4:30 AM
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well the most terrible thing ive ever seen, was at high rocks state park (ralph stover, PA, this topropers' crag has seen much worse, but ill still share this anyway). a family of four was setting up a tr the one time i was their, and their anchor was a tree root the diameter of a hot dog, and i dont mean those jumbo ones.
this was then extended 5 feet to the right, around a sharp edge, and 2 feet down the face. The extension was 4 8mm dyneema slings, the last just girth hitched to the root, and then the rest were girth hitched together in a chain. (so far we have a hideos anchor, and not redundant extension, which was running over a sharpish edge.) to top it all off, the rope (at least it wasnt like one of those home depot ropes) was attatched to the anchor with a single locking biner (not even sure if it was locked).
the climbers obviously wernt satisfied with just 3 death wishes, because when we got to the bottem to talk to these people, we found something stranger then we could have imagined. these people wernt tied in with a figure 8, or even any regular knot.
it seemed these people had tied an overhand on a bight, cliped a non locking wiregait to it, and then clipped an 8 to the wiregait as well. (and i dont mean the knot, i mean the rappel device(!)) then, through the smaller end of the 8, they had a locker clipped in, which they then had clipped to their belay loops.
we stared in amazement. how the ---- did they come up with that!? after a minute or two of contemplation, we decided these were newbies, but not just any newbies, these were the type who read the how to climb book, swung by ems, and headed out for some climbing. we determined that in the "how to tie in section", they read "tie in with a figure 8", which would explain why they had that whole contraption going, they confused the knot with the rap device.
as the group was lowering a climber down, and preparing for a snack, my partner conversed briefly with them. what i heard were things like "the salesman said___", and "no, its ok, you would be amazed how strong those small roots are".
as they finished their snack, we were preparing to leave. the first climber up for the group was a young boy. he began to climb, while the man in charge of the group said things like "dont be affraid", and "if you fall it will catch you" errr..... we left for the day, praying that the kid didnt fall, and just as we were starting to get out of sight, he got to the top, and, as i let out a gasp, eased his weight onto the rope, and was lowered safely to the ground.
we tried Climb Safe, we tried.
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chitowngirl
Dec 10, 2004, 4:41 AM
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Gunksgoer, that story reminds me:
my friend's (non-climber) boyfriend decided to take her canyoneering once. He's a non climber with no experience. He went to the hardware store and got some regular old rope, and that was it. No knowledge, no experience, just a rope and a "how hard could it be?". She refused to go, and he said he'd go with his brother, who, for some reason, was willing, but we, after much work, convinced them that maybe they should learn what they are doing first.
So many people just wanna do stuff without taking the time to learn. And, like him, when they realize they might have to learn something, they give up the idea.
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mendou
Dec 10, 2004, 4:43 AM
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In reply to: My first trek into the rocky mountains at age 14, some fatefull quotes................"Marmots are nice"
:shock: ...is not true???
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cyanamid
Dec 10, 2004, 4:50 AM
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In reply to: "I don't need sunscreen, I'll only be out for a couple of hours" -said I once in Moab in August. Learned that lesson real fast. :oops: |
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ryan112ryan
Dec 10, 2004, 6:21 AM
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gunksgoer, you didnt' say anything?!?!?! there is a place and a time to say somthing, it sounds like it was that place and that time.
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alpinerockfiend
Dec 10, 2004, 8:15 AM
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In reply to: most common newbie mistakes, ones that you have made when you were learning to climb or common mistakes that you see newbies make. what are they? |
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mounthubris
Dec 10, 2004, 5:22 PM
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almost forgot;
"we got the big climb tomarrow, let's celebrate with a good meal, I know a great Italian palce".
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dingus
Dec 10, 2004, 5:34 PM
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Thinking I knew most everything when in fact I knew almost nothing.
Ironically, after 30 years of climbing... I STILL make that mistake!
Old Dawg
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iclimbtoo
Dec 10, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Overgripping everything and not using my feet
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 10, 2004, 6:25 PM
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Having too many pieces of gear in my hands racking up for my second lead; then dropping a quickdraw in the middle of a family of three 80' below; and not knowing what to say when I dropped gear, as opposed to dropping a rock.
Locking down the belay when the leader falls off a steep route. Slammed my poor friend's legs into the wall pretty hard. Was promptly and sternly educated on the 'soft catch' by a more experienced climber who was observing.
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greyicewater
Dec 10, 2004, 6:29 PM
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i never warmed up! worst mistake ever... i'm fine now, but long break due to shoulder injury and pulled tendon in one of my fingers... almost four months out!
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jpdreamer
Dec 10, 2004, 6:37 PM
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In reply to: this was then extended 5 feet to the right, around a sharp edge, and 2 feet down the face. The extension was 4 8mm dyneema slings, the last just girth hitched to the root, and then the rest were girth hitched together in a chain. (so far we have a hideos anchor, and not redundant extension, which was running over a sharpish edge.) to top it all off, the rope (at least it wasnt like one of those home depot ropes) was attatched to the anchor with a single locking biner (not even sure if it was locked).
I've got one better. Once in... Montana I think, I saw a couple climbing next myself and the couple colorado climber I'd met up with. They were toproping a climb and had an anchor set up. They seemed like newbies so I glanced at their setup (the climber was already 1/3 way up). Their anchor was a sling anchor through a couple bolts at the top of the climb, and they were toproping through the sling. Not a biner attached to the sling, just through the sling. :shock:
Of course I highly encouraged that they lower the climber and immediately revise their anchor setup as that thing was a deathtrap and kept an eye on what they were doing for the rest of the day.
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pk
Dec 10, 2004, 6:41 PM
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Gumby gets to the top of xxxxxx 5.7 30M sport route, clips draws in, unties! Ahhhh my rope Help! Help! Someone Help I'm stuck!
P.K.
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 10, 2004, 6:43 PM
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In reply to: Gumby gets to the top of xxxxxx 5.7 30M sport route, clips draws in, unties! Ahhhh my rope Help! Help! Someone Help I'm stuck! P.K.
:D Classic! :D
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jt512
Dec 10, 2004, 6:47 PM
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In reply to: most common newbie mistakes, ones that you have made when you were learning to climb or common mistakes that you see newbies make. what are they?
See Correcting common belay errors.
-Jay
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larryd
Dec 10, 2004, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: ... Their anchor was a sling anchor through a couple bolts at the top of the climb, and they were toproping through the sling. Not a biner attached to the sling, just through the sling. :shock: Of course I highly encouraged that they lower the climber and immediately revise their anchor setup as that thing was a deathtrap and kept an eye on what they were doing for the rest of the day.
Better idea would be to downclimb carefully, or you could have given a belay from the top. Lowering through a bare sling is ill-advised...
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glowering
Dec 10, 2004, 7:25 PM
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Twice I've seen guys send their girlfriends off on a rapple when the ropes didn't reach the ground. Both time we yelled at them and the girls batmanned back up to the anchors. Once at Manure Pile, the guy was grateful. Once at Diablo and the jerk wouldn't accept anything was wrong and kept telling her to go. :shock:
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jammer
Dec 10, 2004, 7:27 PM
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to breathe.
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timsesink
Dec 10, 2004, 7:27 PM
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I think the most common thing I see is non doublebackers and peole when making an anchor only vlipping a biner on tope of the rope instead of tieng a bight or through the webbing so that if one bolt or pro fails the carabiner flies of the side resulting in certain death. I've rung out a few people for that one
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jpdreamer
Dec 10, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to: Better idea would be to downclimb carefully, or you could have given a belay from the top. Lowering through a bare sling is ill-advised...
Yeah agreed, though in this instance the climb wasn't that tall (the climber was about 10 or so feet up). I basically said they should stop climbing and fix it for exactlly the reason you describe, though in retrospect I should have specified a downclimb.
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outdoorsie
Dec 10, 2004, 7:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: My first trek into the rocky mountains at age 14, some fatefull quotes................"Marmots are nice" :shock: ...is not true???
No! It's not true! Marmots are horrible little creatures that will eat *through* your pack in order to gnaw on your thermarest! It ate a sleeping pad!!!
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bighigaz
Dec 10, 2004, 8:07 PM
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1. back clipping
2. bad gate direction when moving out left or right (IOW, gate is NOT opposing direction of travel... dangerous)
3. cross-loading/levering of a belay biner
NONE of these three were made clear to me when I first started climbing. Luckily I had some excellent partners teach me the safest practices before it cost me.
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plund
Dec 10, 2004, 8:09 PM
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mmmm...closed-cell foam......(see marmot references..)
common mistake? Not treating belaying like the life-or-death affair that it is...
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karmaklimber
Dec 10, 2004, 8:26 PM
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There was an article in Urban Climber Magazine that mentioned items on the same subject. To sum it up, some mistatkes that new climbera make area:
-Not taking a break/having enough rest
-Climbing too fast and forgetting to slow down and breathe.
-Climbing with people of similar styles/not climbing with people who have different styles than yourself.
-Being afraid to try other boroughs of climbing, or sticking to one aspect, ie. just bouldering, sport climbing, climbing trad, etc...
-Trying to learn too much too soon.
-Getting lazy about belay set-ups, commands, and double-checking
-Buying shoes too tight
-Believing size matters
-Forgetting to have fun
Others that I've noticed are:
-Not being open to beta or advice from more experienced climbers.
-Grade chasing/getting caught up in the numbers
-
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rocloco
Dec 10, 2004, 8:37 PM
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In reply to: mmmm...closed-cell foam......(see marmot references..) common mistake? Not treating belaying like the life-or-death affair that it is...
Couldn't agree more. I have 2 close newbie buddies that I won't climb with anymore cause they won't listen and after 4 or 5 times out they were saying stuff like everyone has their own way man (in regards to belaying). I was stern but calm the 1st few times they took BOTH hands off belay, but after the 10th time and that "everyone has their own way" comment it had progressed to an all out screaming "F you, you're an a hole" match. The one buddy that had just been climbing on the most careless belay I have ever seen had the nerve to say I was just pissed because of ego. I promptly tossed my sunglasses in the nearby Potomac River, enraged...pulled my rope and swore I would never climb with either of them again. Still haven't either. I don't believe I over reacted. Any newbie that tries to tell me *how it is* when someone's physical well being is on the line won't be getting far with me or many other climbers I expect. I guess justice is the fact that they had just gone out and spent $ on shoes and harness etc and now have nobody to show them how to climb. One of them is my roomate and a great friend but I still won't climb with him.
I had just finished reading Accidents in N. American Mountaineering 2003 so I might have been a tad jumpy and eager, but safety is paramount and yes pratice makes permanent. You practice wrong long enough and it's gonna stay permanently wrong and you will bust someone's ass eventually if not not today or tomorrow.
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phillygoat
Dec 16, 2004, 2:54 AM
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While cleaning a climb on rappel I kicked off some leaves and dirt. Knowing it was my responsibility to alert the folks below but not knowing what to say I shrieked (my throat was dry) "DEBRIS!". My friends got a lot of mileage out of that one.
ps- I know that I'm still a nOOb because I question the spelling of 'rappel' everytime I type it. :)
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simplesoul
Dec 16, 2004, 3:06 AM
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At the gym tonight I was watching a father beley for his son. First of all he was beleying incorrectly and then when I took a glance at his son climbing I noticed that he only had one leg through the leg strap and he was hlaf way up the wall. When i told the father his son fell and was bairly held up...lucky all was well and they fixed the problem but gezz you have to be a really ignorant parent to not notice that...
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kman
Dec 16, 2004, 5:12 PM
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In reply to: I think the most common thing I see is non doublebackers and peole when making an anchor only vlipping a biner on tope of the rope instead of tieng a bight or through the webbing so that if one bolt or pro fails the carabiner flies of the side resulting in certain death. I've rung out a few people for that one
:?: Am I the only one that can't make sense of this?
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j-tha-b
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Dec 16, 2004, 5:19 PM
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falling
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crackmd
Dec 16, 2004, 5:21 PM
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In reply to: my first rock shoes was not so tight, now with my second pair i feel the difference when i climb.
Interesting. My first pair of shoes were way too tight. Despite popular opinion, I personally have not found a real benefit to unbearably tight shoes even at the harder grades. I can climb just about anything in snug but comfortable slippers including sport routes, multi-pitch trad lines and hard cracks.
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rangertau
Dec 16, 2004, 5:26 PM
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I also bought into the super-tight shoes theory. My first pair, I was told, had to be so tight that they hurt to be right. Well...I can take alot of pain so I ended up with shoes so small I could wear them inside my regular shoes. What a load of crap. Snug shoes are good, but I discourage anyone from buying super-tight shoes.
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crackmd
Dec 16, 2004, 5:35 PM
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In reply to: mmmm...closed-cell foam......(see marmot references..) common mistake? Not treating belaying like the life-or-death affair that it is...
From my experience, beginners tend to be more vigilant about safe-belaying than are experienced climbers. What they lack in experience they make up for by obscessive adherance to vigilant belaying (i.e. no slack in the rope, short roping etc.) Over at The Gallery (Red Rocks)it is not uncommon for a belayer to have a climber on while eating a sandwich, cheering on another climber and/or putting the moves on some member of the opposite sex. These multitasking skills really are honed in with experience; beginners tend to be too fearful to divert their attention anywhere but their climber. I am not necessarily saying this is a bad thing, but many of us non-newbies are guilty of this.
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lang22
Dec 16, 2004, 5:48 PM
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here's what i've realized as my major mistakes, and i'm a bonafide newbie, only been rock climbing for about 8 months, ice for about a year.
1.not using my legs! the first couple months of climbing i would literally just campus up, my friends would show me how to use my legs, how to place my feet, but i didn't get the hang of it till recently.
2.not breathing. this is one that i thought would come naturally, but i kept finding after i'd pull off a couple of moves, i'd stop for a rest and realize that i had been holding my breath for about 10 seconds and let out a huge exhale. now i've done most of my learning with boulderers, and i always thought it was kind of funny when they'd pull off a big move, and literally scream, or grunt, or yell. but it's the way they exhale and force themselves to take in more air. now on my wall in my basement, my family wonders what the hell is going on downstairs when i'm messing around trying out some moves!
3.just going for holds and not thinking. when i started, i would just look for the next hold and go for it, not thinking about where i'd place my feet in the process. this led to a lot of torn skin, flappers, when my hands would peel off the rock. i'm learning to think about placement a lot more now, and think ahead one or two moves of the one i'm making.
i'm sure there's more, but these are the BIG 3! the only advice i can give to other newbs is practice, practice, practice! it doesn't come overnight, but when you realize you are having less of these mistakes, it's a great feeling!
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healyje
Dec 16, 2004, 5:51 PM
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Beginners:
1) Shoes too tight
2) Not climbing outside on real rocks
3) Not climbing with someone with experience
4) Never practicing downclimbing
New [Trad] Leaders:
1) Not climbing outside on real rocks
2) Not learning by seconding (cleaning for) multiple experienced lead climbers
3) Not establishing good omni-directional first pieces of pro
4) Worrying about climbing the same difficulty of trad as they do sport before they are really comfortable and competent at placing / cleaning gear
5) Not getting exposure to multiple types of rock/areas
6) Never developing downclimbing skills
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usmc_2tothetop
Dec 16, 2004, 6:00 PM
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Free Soloing shale rock :shock: WTF was I thinking.
"roping" into a buddy with Home Depot rope. Then holding on to something in case he fell.
Camping in an Ice storm with a regular sleeping bag.
Not thinking about the down climb. (Many of times)
"Ice Climbing" with a knife to make holds.
Buying an indoor harness.
Not getting the right size shoes.
Fig-8 on my BELAY loop.
Buying mountaineering crampons for ice climbing.
Buying ice axes of the same kind. (no hammer on the back)
And as always.....packing too much.
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giza
Dec 17, 2004, 7:51 PM
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This happened on my second multipitch route. I was in the process of going on rappel from the top of the first pitch of a climb and dropped my atc. My partner was at the top of the route and I had decided to rappel down after topping out to get our bags at the bottom of the route as it was the last climb of the day. So there I was at the belay with no rappel device and no knowledge of how to use the munter, how to build a biner brake, or even how to body belay. My partner wasn't within earshot so I was a bit freaked. I still can't believe I did this, but I rappeled off the route using a thin accessory cord prussik autoblock. That was it!! Just thin accessory cord on a 10ml rope. It was painfully slow and my hands were raw by the time I reached the bottom but I made it. Just as I got onto solid ground my friend showed up at the bottom of the route wondering what had taken me so long. He tore several strips off me (like any good partner should) for not, at the very least, knowing how to use a munter. As soon as I got home that night I studied the munter and biner brake in case I ever got into the same situation.
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hebeto
Dec 17, 2004, 9:16 PM
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The first time I went bouldering, I was so excited to climb that when I got to the top, I didn't know how to get down.
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erisspirit
Dec 17, 2004, 9:48 PM
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Hmmm I would have to say it was not taking into account the 50+ pounds the climber had on me at the gym, and needing to be caught as i was launched into the air :oops:
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maldaly
Dec 17, 2004, 10:43 PM
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The worst mistake I've seen, and I see it all the time, is people thinking they know how to do something because they took a course. The most guilty are those who have just passed their "lead climbing course" or "intermediate course" with the local mountain club. Club managers, presidents, safety committee chairs, take note! You shoud never, ever, tell someone that they have graduated or passed a course. All that does is set up the poor person to quit learning. I've been climbing 35 years and still learn something every time I go out. Maybe it's because I've never passed a test or graduated from a course but I'm always eager to learn new stuff. Take or give all the classes you can, but as soon as someone tells you that you've passed, learning (or un-learning) stops. I can't even begin to tell you how many times I've seen a climber with their belay 'biner clipped through their leg loops and waistbelt because, "That's the way my instructor taught me."
Funny but sad (and very true) story is the worst I've heard:
Bubba goes out with a buddy drinking, shooting and rapelling and likes the rapelling so much he goes to the store and buys a rope and some rap gear. Then he takes his 7 and 9-year-old kids out rappelling. He spies a water tower in the woods but damned if it isn't surrounded by a chain-link fence. True to bubba-dom, he breaks out his bolt-cutters and cuts a hole, climbs the tower and sets up what he remembered he thinks he saw his friend set up to rap with. Sure enough, he falls, lands on his 7 year old daughter, paralyzing her. His wife got pissed and divorces him, so he does what any red-blooded bubba would do. He sues the company who made the carabiner. It got tossed out but it cost $80,000 to do it. WTFO? Every wonder why carabiners cost so much?
Mal
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crazyakclimber
Apr 17, 2005, 8:33 PM
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"I can climb that bigazz boulder...HA! I'm at the top....oh sh!t, how do I get back down!?"
HAHAHA I've definantly done that before! I was in Cabo, Mexico and we went over to this one beach that's like the very tip of the Baja peninsula and I was climbing these huge monsterous boulders and of course... I freakin got stuck at the top of one and my friends had to stack each other to get me down! haha, yeah... good times
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chalkfree
Apr 17, 2005, 9:45 PM
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About that getting stuck on the boulder....
At Kraft boulders in RR I thought I was doing a v1 up plumbers crack, a boulder with a walk offf, when in reality I was doing a v2 onto a boulder with no walkoff....
Just for reference I think I have the first descent on a v1 downclimb on that same rock now... After I got down I think I found an easier way down. Also having a pad would have been an excellent idea. Also my spotter had told me that there was no walkoff, but as i was in the middle of a move I said "of course there is" She was right I was wrong....
Sometimes it pays to listen,
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gowser
Apr 17, 2005, 10:28 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: My first trek into the rocky mountains at age 14, some fatefull quotes................"Marmots are nice" :shock: ...is not true??? No! It's not true! Marmots are horrible little creatures that will eat *through* your pack in order to gnaw on your thermarest! It ate a sleeping pad!!!
Beware the Marmots!! they also are known to ingest birkenstocks...however, that marmot must of had a deathwish to eat something that had touched my feet! :shock:
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karlbaba
Apr 18, 2005, 6:48 AM
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Most common mistake in actual climbing: not using the feet enough, not getting weight over the feet properly.
Most common safety problem:
Not actually comprehending the systems and not anticipating the consequences of changing elements of the systems.
Most common safety problem among all climbers:
Through being tired or because of a lapse in attention, spacing out on critical safety practices. Why do folks forget to double back the harness, clip in to belays, or fully rig their rappel devices before leaning back? Cause they bonked from being tired or just otherwise weren't paying attention.
Not paying attention kills climbers. It will kill you driving or crossing the street. Most of us get tired of paying attention but mindfulness is like a muscle, get used to paying attention at all times throughout your life and you be present (and safer) for the life that you lead.
Peace
karl
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 19, 2005, 2:05 PM
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Most common newb mistake...is trying to shed the newb label. New climbers get a little climbing under their belt and want sooo bad to show others that they are not a newb anymore and go into the "gumby newb" stage which is worse than being a newb. This is the most dangerous stage of all. You are much more likely to get in over your head. If you are lucky, this is also where a lot of learning can take place. Once past this stage, you embrace the newb label and realize you still have a lot to learn.
I am a newb again and proud of it!
Josh
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dietzpa
Apr 19, 2005, 3:03 PM
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not taking the time to drop your morning deuce before you get to the crag.
one time i got about 200 mosquito bites on my butt suffering from diarrhea in a poorly chosen latrine location.
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amber
Apr 19, 2005, 3:18 PM
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at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot.
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dirtineye
Apr 19, 2005, 3:31 PM
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In reply to: Most common safety problem among all climbers: Through being tired or because of a lapse in attention, spacing out on critical safety practices. Why do folks forget to double back the harness, clip in to belays, or fully rig their rappel devices before leaning back? Cause they bonked from being tired or just otherwise weren't paying attention. Not paying attention kills climbers. It will kill you driving or crossing the street. Most of us get tired of paying attention but mindfulness is like a muscle, get used to paying attention at all times throughout your life and you be present (and safer) for the life that you lead. Peace karl
To this good advice I'll add:
When you are really cold ( or really hot), tired, and feel like you are finally out of danger, but still off the ground, you are not only mentally impared, you tend to have a mental let down or relaxation that can really get you into trouble.
When you think you are safe, because you are much safer now than you were a few minutes ago, but you really aren't, that's one of those times when you do the dumb things, which, if you are lucky cause no problem, but if you are unlucky and make one small mistake on top of some boneheaded thing such as unclipping too soon, down you go.
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saxfiend
Apr 19, 2005, 3:54 PM
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In reply to: most common newbie mistakes,
JL
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bluenose
Apr 19, 2005, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: most common newbie mistakes, Asking for advice on rc.com. :D JL
Never hurts to ask if you don't leave the ground with it.
I think that maybe following the advise blindly and without cross checking it would count.
Jeff.
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azrockclimber
Apr 19, 2005, 4:45 PM
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without reading any of this..
I'd say a very common mistake would be in the use of runners to eliminate rope drag and to help minimize the walking of cams/ pulling of nuts. Big problems!
not protecting to avoid zippering
creating a situation where a factor 2 fall can occur when it is easily avoidable.
DROPPING SHIT!! god I hate that. and then not screaming like a banshee when you do! even worse!
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climblouisiana
Apr 19, 2005, 5:07 PM
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Treading on my rope.
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merrittasmaximus
Apr 20, 2005, 5:17 PM
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Overgripping everything and not using my feet
So true! I am still a newbie, and still trying to teach my brain to use my feet and legs more. I usually realize my mistake, yet again, when my arms feel like they're going to fall off.
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taino
Apr 20, 2005, 5:34 PM
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Climbing Shockley's Ceiling, apparently. :rolleyes:
T
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hammerhead
Apr 20, 2005, 5:38 PM
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Try the tech tips at chockstone.org (link on main page of RC.com) and the tech tips at climbing.com too. They both have good info.
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dontfall
Apr 20, 2005, 5:41 PM
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Does it really matter? Just explain to them what they did wrong and help them....no need to bash.
But then again, ryan112ryan knows everything...ask him.
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truckey
Apr 20, 2005, 6:48 PM
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not always listening to people when they tell me to try something different so all in all thinking i know everything
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jcpace
Apr 20, 2005, 8:24 PM
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This isn't a bad thing or even a mistake, but I've learned to trust my gear more and not over do it. Redundancy is a standard in our sport, and I practice it. But there is a point at where overredundancy is unnecessary and a waste of time and gear. Those who taught me climbing (thanks go out to those guys!) tended to go overboard with their anchor systems. 8^)
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shiggetyshiva
Apr 20, 2005, 9:18 PM
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On sustained routes where precious little energy was left in my arms, pausing to chalk up (which relates to another hot topic post) instead of just going strong for a better (i.e., more restful) stance.
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AltitudeJunkie
Sep 19, 2008, 6:49 PM
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when i first started climbing I had this mindset that anyone who was more experienced than me and talked about safety a lot or owned a gym would definitely know what they are talking about and doing. Now I realize how bad of an idea that is, esp. after i was taught to belay incorrectly by a gym owner. ive watched people climb with broken bones, after urging them not to, without the safest available-at-the-moment gear, but because they said it was safe and I assumed their judgement was sound just because they we're more experienced than me, i took it. I never really considered that they might just be experienced and using bad judgement, and a knack for feeding their own egos.
when it comes to taking climbing advice from people (or advice in general), I tend to look at whether or not they act on what they say. If what they say seems good, but they don't act on it themselves, i take it with a grain of salt and discuss it with people that I KNOW are reliable sources of information, or research it to find out for sure. not to say that i never listen to people, i just use discretion where i see that its necessary.
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 7:31 PM
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No offence, of all the reserected threads this is probably the most useful, but this thread is 3 years old...
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AltitudeJunkie
Sep 19, 2008, 9:10 PM
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It doesn't matter how old a forum is if the information is useful. If its old enough where the information provided is no longer valid or useful, then the forum should be taken down.
I know if i would have stumbled on this as a newbie, I would have thought to question the things being taught to me at that time. I figure for people who are beginners, who would be likely to read a forum in the "beginners" category, it might be helpful so they can avoid some common mistakes. after all, isnt that the purpose of the forum?
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 9:51 PM
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I did say it was useful, but all I was thinking of was... how many pages did you dig through to find this? or was it the search function?
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sgreer
Sep 19, 2008, 10:13 PM
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Putting the second on belay before all the slack was pulled up and then proceeding to pull all the slack through my belay device. 
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brownie710
Sep 19, 2008, 11:01 PM
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[quote "saxfiend"][quote]most common newbie mistakes,[/quote]
Asking for advice on rc.com. :D
JL[/quote]
that's a priceless answer, ditto
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kennoyce
Sep 19, 2008, 11:36 PM
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lets see, what mistakes did I make as a noob? oh, thats easy I never was a noob. but when I started climbing it would have been nice to get a 60 m rope, or even a 50 m but alas I got a 40. Some people might say that noob's should get a 70 m, but i've never found a route where I needed one all though some easy alpine routs might make sense. As far as climbing goes it would have been nice to know that falling onto bomber gear is an option, and not have to downclimb all the time.
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saxfiend
Sep 20, 2008, 2:42 AM
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brownie710 wrote: saxfiend wrote: In reply to: most common newbie mistakes, Asking for advice on rc.com. :D JL that's a priceless answer, ditto
JL
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jmvc
Sep 20, 2008, 9:05 AM
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[quote "kman"][quote]I think the most common thing I see is non doublebackers and peole when making an anchor only vlipping a biner on tope of the rope instead of tieng a bight or through the webbing so that if one bolt or pro fails the carabiner flies of the side resulting in certain death. I've rung out a few people for that one [/quote]
:?: Am I the only one that can't make sense of this?[/quote]
No
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jmvc
Sep 20, 2008, 9:06 AM
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[quote "amber"]at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot.[/quote]
And if you don't like stopper knots?
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:09 AM
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brownie710 wrote: [quote "saxfiend"] In reply to: most common newbie mistakes,[/quote] Asking for advice on rc.com. :D JL that's a priceless answer, ditto
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:49 AM
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jmvc wrote: kman wrote: In reply to: I think the most common thing I see is non doublebackers and peole when making an anchor only vlipping a biner on tope of the rope instead of tieng a bight or through the webbing so that if one bolt or pro fails the carabiner flies of the side resulting in certain death. I've rung out a few people for that one :?: Am I the only one that can't make sense of this? No
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:50 AM
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jmvc wrote: amber wrote: at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot. And if you don't like stopper knots?
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jmvc
Sep 20, 2008, 10:37 AM
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sungam wrote: jmvc wrote: amber wrote: at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot. And if you don't like stopper knots? I think she means at the end of the ropes.
Yeah, that's what I thought she meant. I don't like them.
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 11:34 AM
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jmvc wrote: sungam wrote: jmvc wrote: amber wrote: at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot. And if you don't like stopper knots? I think she means at the end of the ropes. Yeah, that's what I thought she meant. I don't like them.
Why don't you like them?
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AltitudeJunkie
Sep 20, 2008, 7:59 PM
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i think i actually was looking something up about trad climbing, ya know the usual screwing around on the internet, right, and for some reason this was one of the top forums that came up. So i took a look. And yes, i did actually read through ALL of the posts. lol! There was stuff I read that I never even thought of when i started climbing. I've never been the type to try stuff because it seems safe and should be safe. I don't do things climbing that I haven't been instructed on how to do, and had my work checked out. It seems that some noobs don't think like i do.
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i_h8_choss
Sep 20, 2008, 8:11 PM
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biggest n00b mistake: signing up for rc.com and then posting a question.
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heavydude
Sep 23, 2008, 10:14 AM
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This just happened to me on the weekend. Somehow I ended up at a scout camp with two guys I've never met before.
We were just talking about ourselves and one of these guys asked me where I learned to tie knots. I said I climbed and went canyoning.
This guy then dissapears and comes back in a little while, he puts something on the table in front of me. I look down and its an old Chounard pulley.
He then tells me how he used to belay with it.
I said What? How the f... do you belay with a pulley?
He said he would put the pulley between the biner and a stitch plate. He went on to explain how he didn't like friction on the rope when he belayed.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 11:13 AM
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AHAHAHA!
Doesn't like the friction! haha!
-.-
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rhythm164
Sep 23, 2008, 11:45 AM
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once a couple years ago @ our local crag, we were walking down the cliff face at the end of a day, looking for that one last route to wrap things up, and came upon 3 guys on a 5.5 crack using a 2 ton hand winch attached to a large mooring (the crag is right along a waterway) at the cliff top for an anchor. Best of all, the rope was just looped through the hook of the winch, nothing keeping it there besides dumbluck and gravity.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 11:57 AM
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Rofl, they just used a bit off a boat?
lol.
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Rocknovice
Sep 23, 2008, 3:18 PM
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Concentrating on falling instead of climbing.
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AZBones
Sep 23, 2008, 7:31 PM
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2-3 years ago we were coming down from a local climb and on the approach wall, bout 50' tall, two guys were rap'n down on 1"tubular webbing
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 7:35 PM
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AZBones wrote: 2-3 years ago we were coming down from a local climb and on the approach wall, bout 50' tall, two guys were rap'n down on 1"tubular webbing
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AZBones
Sep 23, 2008, 7:37 PM
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We caught them before they started down so we set our ropes and let them rap our lines
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 7:53 PM
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AZBones wrote: We caught them before they started down so we set our ropes and let them rap our lines
Didn't the guys at the gearshop enquire when the bought X0m of webbing from the store?
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Maddhatter
Sep 23, 2008, 8:54 PM
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Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors.
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Maddhatter
Sep 23, 2008, 9:27 PM
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sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed.
Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 9:28 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed. Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself.
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Maddhatter
Sep 23, 2008, 10:45 PM
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sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed. Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself. Cord-o-death? oh noes!
WTF is that about? lol A cord-o-let is one of the safest ways to EQ an anchor. Why in the world would you say it's not?
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flipnfall
Sep 23, 2008, 10:54 PM
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Didn't have time to read everyone's response, but I definitely vote for the following n00b mistake because it's one I made as a n00b.
Not listening to the advice of others or not accepting advice from others even when other climbers were being really nice about how they give that advice.
GT
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 11:03 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed. Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself. Cord-o-death? oh noes! WTF is that about? lol A cord-o-let is one of the safest ways to EQ an anchor. Why in the world would you say it's not?
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NJSlacker
Sep 24, 2008, 5:06 AM
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nobody ever asks me about buying 100+ feet of 1 inch tubular for slacklining, so I never tell them. For all they know I'm off to rap down a cliff.
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rtwilli4
Sep 24, 2008, 5:38 AM
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I think my most common mistake has been jumping on something near or at my limit without warming up. I haven't ever climbed anything over 6 pitches and haven't climbed much trad at all so the mistakes I could have made were all pretty insignificant.
I think the most common "mistake" I see n00bs making is always in the way they are belaying. From clipping in wrong to letting go of the rope, there are so many different mistakes I've seen n00bs make, but it always has something to do with belaying.
Also, when I see people learning to lead sport, I notice that they do dumb things at the anchor like untying their knot without running the rope through the anchor or at least securing it to themselves in some way.
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king_rat
Sep 24, 2008, 12:12 PM
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Thinking that after climbing for 2 months in the gym they know everything.
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drm1st
Sep 24, 2008, 12:24 PM
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I've watched people climb @ the gym once or twice, disappear for 4 months, then come back & try to climb without knowing how to tie in as they stand their dumb found looking at everyone else for hints rather than asking for another lesson. I went over, showed them how, tied it in for them. As I walked away, they proceeded to untie the not because they thought there was supposed to be more length on the tail so they can poke their eye out.
My fiance & I have seen a girl drop her boyfriend about 40' in the gym because she pinched her hand in the ATC, stand over him as she made sure her hand was okay, then go to get a band aid. He was fine, but we never saw him climb with her again.
I've also seen a young guy start a climb without being tied in, never making sure his belayer was paying attention, after about 15 - 20 feet up he says "Okay, falling"...meanwhile his belayer said "Dude, you're not tied in". He hit the floor in our gym.
I need to start carrying a video camera to document this crap.
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epoch
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Sep 24, 2008, 12:26 PM
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Thinking that they know everything about climbing after having climbed for 15+ years.
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AltitudeJunkie
Sep 30, 2008, 5:11 AM
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i think these people might have gone to rei and bought some gear and just started climbing without knowing anything.
"we look cool because we have nuts and a biner. :)"
i was at devils lake one weekend and my partners and I spotted a very interesting top rope anchor set up. a nut (not bigger than a BD #6 or #7) slotted in a crack, a non-locking oval clipped to the nut, and the rope through the biner. as if they weren't already playing russian roulette with their lives, they loaded the biner over the edge.
i think when we got to the bottom of the cliff, one of my partners commented to them on their anchor.
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sungam
Sep 30, 2008, 12:50 PM
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I would have done more then mention it.
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mtmtnr
Sep 30, 2008, 8:16 PM
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The little beasties are only matched by ravenous pack rats! Lost a good pair of boots to some packies.
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chossmonkey
Sep 30, 2008, 8:29 PM
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Fuckin' n00bs!!!!
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OptumisClimb
Sep 30, 2008, 8:53 PM
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Got rained out at the top of a crag in Ea Wa. Decided to rap. down and hike out. With the thunderstorm right above us (thunder clapping at the same time you see the lightning) I toss the rope over the steep overhang and set off. Get about 15 feet down the overhang to feel a knot at my brake hand. It took me what felt like a 1/2 hour to get that thing undone. I thought that the cold shuts at the top with soaking wet rope attached to me was a death sentence.
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taydude
Sep 30, 2008, 9:21 PM
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I had a kid approach me, tells me he climbs 5.11, leads, and has gear. Truth is, he's lead a couple times in a gym, he climbs 5.11 in a gym (lol), and he has "a quickdraw and a couple stoppers".
common newbie mistake: being overconfident in your abilities.
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OptumisClimb
Sep 30, 2008, 9:30 PM
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It takes at least a couple of months of RC.com surfing and a handfull of stoppers.
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socalclimber
Oct 3, 2008, 11:43 PM
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Most common newbie mistake:
Complacency
Most common oldbie mistake:
Complacency
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rgold
Oct 4, 2008, 3:24 AM
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The thing that almost got me killed as a new young climber was thinking that all problems could be solved by moving up to those better holds just above.
And I climbed for many years before I learned from John Bragg just how much effort and will is required to properly protect steep leads.
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richardvg03
Oct 8, 2008, 4:03 AM
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Buying gear you don't need but you THINK you need it...
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richardvg03
Oct 8, 2008, 4:08 AM
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sungam wrote: richardvg03 wrote: Buying gear you don't need but you THINK you need it... That's not a mistake, that's foreward planning 
That's what I always told my g/f!!! hahaha!
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fenix83
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Oct 9, 2008, 3:55 AM
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This may have been mentioned before:
Overextending yourself (both in training which leads to injury and in actual climbing which can lead to much worse)
Going to dangerous lengths to avoid leaving gear behind when you know you should bail.
Not asking enough questions.
Trying to learn self rescue from yelled-up instructions mid-epic instead of on the ground when you should have.
-F
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HappinessIsWinning
Oct 9, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Being Gabe Walker
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HappinessIsWinning
Oct 9, 2008, 9:28 PM
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sungam wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: Being Gabe Walker Whoah there, man. You CLEARLY don't know who Gabe Walker is.
Clearly I do. He is the nOOb that climbed the Nose with nothing more then his penis... and unfortunately I have had the pleasure of finding you here,... everyday, all day 
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happiegrrrl
Oct 9, 2008, 10:28 PM
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When I started climbing I was seeing a lot of other newbies getting out there with people who didn't really have a clue. The wanted to climb but didn't know how to vet potential partners. Particularly younger women, who were getting picked up in the gym by "real" rock climbers.
It's a tough time. You don't really know enough to know when someone else doesn't know enough!
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seanfur
Oct 9, 2008, 10:49 PM
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Biggest mistake I make is to demur to hubris rather then common sense. Fairly common mistake for me.
Sean
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Myxomatosis
Oct 9, 2008, 10:58 PM
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Well, Ive taught a few noob's in my days... but the most common I find (climbing outdoors) is
Assumption.... unless you partner says hes safe, you don't let go of the rope.
I had one guy start to apply bug rappel with his brake hand when his partner got on top of a ledge (half way point).... I remind him every time about it.
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sungam
Oct 9, 2008, 11:17 PM
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: sungam wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: Being Gabe Walker Whoah there, man. You CLEARLY don't know who Gabe Walker is. Clearly I do. He is the nOOb that climbed the Nose with nothing more then his penis... and unfortunately I have had the pleasure of finding you here,... everyday, all day
Just being friendly, you know
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porkchop_express
Oct 9, 2008, 11:33 PM
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I think a big mistake is either relying strictly on books and then trying to jump on something without the requisite instruction by an experienced mentor or taking a few lessons or guided courses and then not doing the homework of reading and understanding the processes shown. I spent at least a year reading well illustrated books before I got my mentor to start really working on the techniques with me. When we finally got down to it though, it was much easier for him to teach me and much easier for me to remember.
In terms of training, I see overtraining a lot even outside of climbing, but people think that they need to be "sending Vhard" within a few weeks of buying a few climbing mags and a gym membership. I always try to develop moderately and sequentially. I think a lot of Noobs are afraid of being a beginner. I was, and sort of still am, having not completely left my noobish trappings behind...But you have to be realistic and check the ego at the door.
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho
Oct 11, 2008, 3:19 PM
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bishes
A nice informative thread.
My biggest mistake was not getting into climbing at a younger age as I started at the ripe age of 27, but I guess better late then never.
Not using the search function, not using my feet, overgripping, not breathing, lunging "almost blindly" for the next hold, not anchoring myself while catching someone 100lbs over my weight as they proceed to take a 20 ft. whipper ( never let go of the brake hand though).
Wearing my steeltoe workboots that I use for motorcycling on a 3 mile approach half of which is a pretty steep grade with an overloaded pack. My legs were burning pretty bad but it was a good workout. haha
(This post was edited by mecalekahi-mekahidyho on Oct 23, 2008, 12:16 AM)
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milesenoell
Oct 11, 2008, 5:30 PM
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho wrote: My biggest mistake was not getting into climbing at a younger age as I started at the ripe age of 27, but I guess better late then never.
+1
I didn't start until I was 28 because I didn't know any climbers. When I started crack climbing, people started noticing the damage to the backs of my hands, and suddenly I found out that actually I did know climbers. Unfortunately they all "used to be a serious climber, but...".
Biggest mistake was putting off starting for lack of a climbing partner.
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john_walker777
Oct 11, 2008, 6:02 PM
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Not wearing a helmet, while climbing, or belaying: DUMB, DUMB, DUMB!
Talking/spewing/spraying while belaying!
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sungam
Oct 11, 2008, 6:15 PM
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Biggest n00b mistake?
Editing for the PT
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HappinessIsWinning
Oct 12, 2008, 1:26 AM
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sungam wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: sungam wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: Being Gabe Walker Whoah there, man. You CLEARLY don't know who Gabe Walker is. Clearly I do. He is the nOOb that climbed the Nose with nothing more then his penis... and unfortunately I have had the pleasure of finding you here,... everyday, all day Sorry, am I reducing your experiance? (seriously). Just being friendly, you know
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Oct 12, 2008, 4:01 AM
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sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT
Newbz n0 kn0 PT
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sungam
Oct 12, 2008, 1:12 PM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Oct 22, 2008, 2:41 AM
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sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head?
Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer:
The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b.
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sungam
Oct 22, 2008, 2:46 AM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head? Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer: The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Oct 22, 2008, 2:55 AM
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sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head? Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer: The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b. Korekt. Seriously, though - no more edits for teh PTs.
No I am. Seriously. PT?
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sungam
Oct 22, 2008, 2:57 AM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head? Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer: The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b. Korekt. Seriously, though - no more edits for teh PTs. No I am. Seriously. PT?
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Oct 22, 2008, 3:16 AM
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sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head? Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer: The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b. Korekt. Seriously, though - no more edits for teh PTs. No I am. Seriously. PT? Sorry, I don't mean to whore here, but wtf does that even say?
It’s OK. You can whore elsewhere. But…
It is a pastiche at turning the obvious reply to “Seriously though” of “No I’m serious” into a “Airplane!” style remark. (And quit calling me Shirley)
Untranslated it would be “No, seriously, I, as a voice of the n00bs, don’t understand the abbreviation of PT. No really. PW I get. PC I get. PTO I get. Just not PT”
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sungam
Oct 22, 2008, 3:27 AM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head? Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer: The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b. Korekt. Seriously, though - no more edits for teh PTs. No I am. Seriously. PT? Sorry, I don't mean to whore here, but wtf does that even say? It’s OK. You can whore elsewhere. But… It is a pastiche at turning the obvious reply to “Seriously though” of “No I’m serious” into a “Airplane!” style remark. (And quit calling me Shirley) Untranslated it would be “No, seriously, I, as a voice of the n00bs, don’t understand the abbreviation of PT. No really. PW I get. PC I get. PTO I get. Just not PT”
You will learn in time, don't worry. This site is like trad climbing- some things are best left for the individual to discover. Have fun!
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Oct 22, 2008, 3:36 AM
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sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: sungam wrote: Biggest n00b mistake? Editing for the PT Newbz n0 kn0 PT Who's n00bier, the n00b, or the n00b that get's in over his head? Really, this took me weeks to get right. I've finally got the answer: The n00b who doesn't think he is in over his head because he follows the advice of the n00b. Korekt. Seriously, though - no more edits for teh PTs. No I am. Seriously. PT? Sorry, I don't mean to whore here, but wtf does that even say? It’s OK. You can whore elsewhere. But… It is a pastiche at turning the obvious reply to “Seriously though” of “No I’m serious” into a “Airplane!” style remark. (And quit calling me Shirley) Untranslated it would be “No, seriously, I, as a voice of the n00bs, don’t understand the abbreviation of PT. No really. PW I get. PC I get. PTO I get. Just not PT” Ah, I see. I thought you were the one who called the PTFTW. You are not. You will learn in time, don't worry. This site is like trad climbing- some things are best left for the individual to discover. Have fun!
I’ll buy the “you will learn eventually” on another forum, but this is beginners 101. Isn’t the goal here to spill some of the secrets?
Ok maybe not the PTFTW secret. But some.
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northfacejmb
Oct 22, 2008, 3:46 AM
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Not exactly rock climbing, but while putting up x-mas lights in a neighbors backyard, 15ft up I wrapped a sling around a sturdy branch and clipped it to my harness. As I was about to lean back but I figured I'd double check my harness. I looked down to notice that my harness was only attached with the velcro!
The worst n00b mistake I've seen is a group rappelling at night with only one headlamp anchored to a tree with a made up knot. To make matters worse, one of the girls rappelling had only worn a harness once before. As she was lowering past the lip she failed to walk her feet down far enough. This caused her feet to slip and she fell 3ft upside down and dangled there for a few seconds.
The fall made her shoe fall off. Causing the second worst n00b mistake I've seen.
One of the guys rappelling with her started to pendulum in an attempt to recover the shoe. While doing this the static rope on the top started to roll dangerously close to the edge of the overhang. If it had rolled a foot farther the rope would have dropped him about 10ft onto a static rope...anchored with a made up knot. At least he found the shoe!
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sungam
Oct 22, 2008, 3:47 AM
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FINE.
One secret, but only one.
It's a deep one...
J_ung has a giant shaft, and when I say giant I mean fracking enormous. I'm hoping to take a look at it and maybe even have a peep inside to find out what all the fuss is about when I'm over there.
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petsfed
Oct 22, 2008, 3:49 AM
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Ignorance of proper ham-sandwich-and-nut-tool slinging.
Conflating physically ready for mentally ready as it pertains to leading.
Discrediting their own decision making skills and deferring to "experience". If something doesn't make sense to you, and the person who told you can't explain it to you, then you probably shouldn't take it as truth.
Leaving the belay certification tag on their harness for the entirety of their week long trip out west.
Bagging on any kind of climbing they haven't done enough of to really understand anyway.
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shockabuku
Oct 22, 2008, 4:10 AM
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho wrote: PTFTW bishes
Doesn't count unless you call it in the air, bish.
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho
Oct 23, 2008, 12:17 AM
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Duly noted.
I guess I have to pay attention as to how many posts can go in a thread page, but does it vary?
This I must research.
(This post was edited by mecalekahi-mekahidyho on Oct 23, 2008, 12:19 AM)
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sungam
Oct 23, 2008, 12:36 AM
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho wrote: (This post was edited by mecalekahi-mekahidyho on Oct 23, 2008, 1:19 AM)
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho
Oct 24, 2008, 12:38 AM
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HAHAAH, I re-edited to remove the PT as I couldnt rightfully claim it. Just goes to show I still got some noob in me.
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milesenoell
Oct 24, 2008, 4:34 AM
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only varies by one on the first page, and there's a trick so you don't have to count. but I'm still trying to figure out what the FTW stands for. F-ing Time Waster is my best guess but it seems to be lacking in wit.
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petsfed
Oct 24, 2008, 5:40 AM
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*cough* for the win *cough*
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petsfed
Oct 24, 2008, 5:41 AM
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As in page turn for the win
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16stfd16
Oct 24, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Big n00b mistake: Listening to bad advice.
*Guilty*
Bigger n00b mistake: Giving bad advice.
*Guilty*
Biggest n00b mistake: Trying to pretend your not a n00b.
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16stfd16
Oct 24, 2008, 12:58 PM
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^^^^*guilty*^^^^
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knieveltech
Oct 24, 2008, 1:41 PM
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petsfed wrote: Leaving the belay certification tag on their harness for the entirety of their week long trip out west.
Hey! Don't be hatin'. I take em off and I lose em and then it's a minor hassle to get replacements and everyone at the gym has jokes because I lost my shit. Much easier to just leave em on.
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troutboy
Oct 24, 2008, 2:08 PM
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knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: Leaving the belay certification tag on their harness for the entirety of their week long trip out west. Hey! Don't be hatin'. I take em off and I lose em and then it's a minor hassle to get replacements and everyone at the gym has jokes because I lost my shit. Much easier to just leave em on.
Me too. I travel a lot for my job so I have several of these puppies. The only way I can keep them w/o loss is on my harness. I know it's dorky, but....
I've been climbing 30+ years. Guess I'm still a noob
TS
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petsfed
Oct 24, 2008, 4:39 PM
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knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: Leaving the belay certification tag on their harness for the entirety of their week long trip out west. Hey! Don't be hatin'. I take em off and I lose em and then it's a minor hassle to get replacements and everyone at the gym has jokes because I lost my shit. Much easier to just leave em on.
You could've put them on your keys, or something.
Actually, that's just another reason to move out west, dude. You get out to the crags often enough that you only go to the gym during the winter anyway. So you never have to show up at the crag with the tag on, or at the gym without it.
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knieveltech
Oct 24, 2008, 5:10 PM
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petsfed wrote: knieveltech wrote: petsfed wrote: Leaving the belay certification tag on their harness for the entirety of their week long trip out west. Hey! Don't be hatin'. I take em off and I lose em and then it's a minor hassle to get replacements and everyone at the gym has jokes because I lost my shit. Much easier to just leave em on. You could've put them on your keys, or something. Actually, that's just another reason to move out west, dude. You get out to the crags often enough that you only go to the gym during the winter anyway. So you never have to show up at the crag with the tag on, or at the gym without it.
I hear that, man. I'd love to pack up and head out that way. One of these days...
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SendMasterJack
Oct 24, 2008, 9:09 PM
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bringing a bucket of KFC on the approach before climbing 5.12
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knieveltech
Oct 24, 2008, 9:32 PM
Post #159 of 163
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SendMasterJack wrote: bringing a bucket of KFC on the approach before climbing 5.12
What? KFC is nasty.
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Hennessey
Oct 25, 2008, 10:57 AM
Post #160 of 163
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The fact that your a n00b is mistake enough
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carabiner96
Oct 27, 2008, 8:45 PM
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knieveltech wrote: SendMasterJack wrote: bringing a bucket of KFC on the approach before climbing 5.12 What? KFC is nasty.
STFU. I'm going to go get KFC right now...i can't stop, really, because they coat their thighs in crack.
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sungam
Oct 27, 2008, 8:53 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: knieveltech wrote: SendMasterJack wrote: bringing a bucket of KFC on the approach before climbing 5.12 What? KFC is nasty. STFU. I'm going to go get KFC right now...i can't stop, really, because they coat their thighs in crack.
Sounds like the hookers my friend chills with.
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knieveltech
Oct 27, 2008, 8:57 PM
Post #163 of 163
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carabiner96 wrote: knieveltech wrote: SendMasterJack wrote: bringing a bucket of KFC on the approach before climbing 5.12 What? KFC is nasty. STFU. I'm going to go get KFC right now...i can't stop, really, because they coat their thighs in crack.
Well I suppose that's one way to get a date...
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Good catch. 
