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stabla
Sep 14, 2005, 7:41 PM
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I myself have climbed 5.12, but so many times i have overheard people claim they "climb" 5.12. Should they be regarded as 5.12 climbers if they have only done 1 and worked the damn thing to death? I think not! I think people who climb at this grade should be solid at it and consistent, mayb e even onsight it before they start running their mouths! Just please tell me someone i am not alone in thinking this!
Cheers
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pbjosh
Sep 14, 2005, 7:45 PM
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To say you climb a grade you should be able to onsight or quickly redpoint a reasonably high percentage of climbs at that grade, across all types of climbing - sport, crack, slabs, OW, etc.
So to say you are a "5.12" climber you're including up to 5.12d and you're including slabs and OW and most people don't onsight stuff like that too much.
To say you're a "5.12a" sport climber is a big difference, you've narrowed it down a bunch.
Just because you've climbed a grade once does NOT make you a climber at that level, I agree.
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overlord
Sep 14, 2005, 7:48 PM
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if youve climbed one .12 youre not a .12 climber. youve just climbed one route of the grade.
in order to be a .12 climber (or any other "graded" climber for that matter) you need to climb such routes regullary and in few tries.
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caughtinside
Sep 14, 2005, 7:49 PM
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Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.
Doesn't matter how many attempts you've made, or what kind of climb it was. We all take different roads to get there.
I should know. I'm a 5.12 climber.
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caughtinside
Sep 14, 2005, 7:50 PM
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Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.
Doesn't matter how many attempts you've made, or what kind of climb it was. We all take different roads to get there.
I should know. I'm a 5.12 climber.
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dingus
Sep 14, 2005, 7:51 PM
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In reply to: but so many times i have overheard people claim they "climb" 5.12. Should they be regarded as 5.12 climbers if they have only done 1 and worked the damn thing to death?
They should be regarded as mutant warriors from the 4th Ward of Hell!
ARRRRGGGGHHHHH!
DMT
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curt
Sep 14, 2005, 7:52 PM
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In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12....
As long as it's not some lame, effeminate sport-climb. :wink:
Curt
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madflash
Sep 14, 2005, 7:55 PM
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I agree with pbjosh on that one. there is a huge difference between a 5.12 sport route four bolts long with only three or four hard hand moves (or even just one!) vs. a long sustained 5.12 crack. I've done a couple of 5.12 sport routes that felt way easier than some of the 5.10 wide cracks. That's just how it goes. I had a friend that used to say that if you can "consistently" pull routes of a certain grade in a single day (usually half dozen tries or less) than you can claim that grade. For instance if I can walk up to a route (let's say 5.12a) and give it a try or two, work out the beta, then send it, then that is the grade(5.12a) I am climbing. Maybe sometimes i will onsight a few routes of that grade, but sometimes i won't even be able to get to the top. This takes into consideration things like short sport routes and endurance cracks. The whole "consistency" thing has to be worked out, but I think it works fairly well. I don't even know where to begin on ratings at other areas. Let me just say, if your onsighting 5.12 in the Valley, your probably more than just a 5.12 climber.
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caughtinside
Sep 14, 2005, 7:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.... As long as it's not some lame, effeminate sport-climb. :wink: Curt
Whatever!
What's bullshit is when some boulderer tells you that just because they can send V5, they're a 5.12 climber. Nonsense!
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climbhigh23
Sep 14, 2005, 7:58 PM
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i onsight-solo-red pointed a 5.12+ in my home gym after about 17 tries (my buddy put the route up and he has been climbing for 5 months, setting routes in 2 different gyms for 3 of those months, so he definitely know what he is talking about).
even though that is the only time i have climbed a 12, i now know i am capable of climbing 5.12's, so i know that i am a 5.12 climber.
now that i am a 5.12 climber, what kind of shoes work best for 5.13's (that's my next step)?
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topher
Sep 14, 2005, 8:02 PM
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if you have to be able to climb every style climb in that grad to call your self a 5.what ever climber then there are almost no 5.11 + climbingers out there.. think about it how many of the "strong" sport climbers (sharma ect) can claim they can climb, 5.14 off width slab, crack and face.. im sure not many of them. then to make it legit would you not have to lead it... humm the numbers of folks that can lead (and pre placed gear doenst count) 5.14 are well very few! i think that if you want to call your self a 5what ever climber go nuts thats your call i my am a person who enjoyed climbing and thats the end of it
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curt
Sep 14, 2005, 8:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.... As long as it's not some lame, effeminate sport-climb. :wink: Curt Whatever! What's s--- is when some boulderer tells you that just because they can send V5, they're a 5.12 climber. Nonsense!
I'd agree with that. However, since I was leading 5.12 trad before you were born, I can say that.
Curt
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caughtinside
Sep 14, 2005, 8:15 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.... As long as it's not some lame, effeminate sport-climb. :wink: Curt Whatever! What's s--- is when some boulderer tells you that just because they can send V5, they're a 5.12 climber. Nonsense! I'd agree with that. However, since I was leading 5.12 trad before you were born, I can say that. Curt
Well, that's a cute little bit of word trickery curt! Hell, I lead 5.12 trad. Hanging on gear. Standing in slings. Tramming up rope. Hah!
Besides, everyone knows that if you have to onsight every 5.12 on the planet to be a 5.12 climber, there'd be, like, no 5.12 climbers.
And I can say that, because as I pointed out earlier, I'm a 5.12 climber.
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curt
Sep 14, 2005, 8:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.... As long as it's not some lame, effeminate sport-climb. :wink: Curt Whatever! What's s--- is when some boulderer tells you that just because they can send V5, they're a 5.12 climber. Nonsense! I'd agree with that. However, since I was leading 5.12 trad before you were born, I can say that. Curt Well, that's a cute little bit of word trickery curt! Hell, I lead 5.12 trad. Hanging on gear. Standing in slings. Tramming up rope. Hah!
That's not leading 5.12 trad.
In reply to: Besides, everyone knows that if you have to onsight every 5.12 on the planet to be a 5.12 climber, there'd be, like, no 5.12 climbers.
In my estimation (as others have said) a "5.12 climber" should be able to walk up to any 5.12 climb and have a reasonable expectation of doing it.
In reply to: And I can say that, because as I pointed out earlier, I'm a 5.12 climber.
No, you're not.
Curt
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pbjosh
Sep 14, 2005, 8:22 PM
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No one is saying that you have to onsight every 5.12 on the planet to be a 5.12 climber (this would include: Freerider, Hall of Mirrors, Romantic Warrior, Trench Warfare, etc).
However, climbing one 5.12 does not make you a 5.12 climber, it makes you someone who has climbed 5.12.
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caughtinside
Sep 14, 2005, 8:24 PM
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In reply to: However, climbing one 5.12 does not make you a 5.12 climber, it makes you someone who has climbed 5.12.
Semantics! Besides, that should read 5.12s
-CI512
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sumchum
Sep 14, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Once you tell a really hot girl in the parking lot of the local climbing gym that you climb 5.12. Then your a 5.12 climber.
I should know, I climb 5.7
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pbjosh
Sep 14, 2005, 8:26 PM
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There's a real difference. I've climbed 5.13 sport, 5.12 trad, 5.11 OW and slab, but would only call myself a solid 5.10 leader to be honest.
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dingus
Sep 14, 2005, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Hell, I lead 5.12 trad. Hanging on gear. Standing in slings. Tramming up rope. Hah! That's not leading 5.12 trad.
That's not 5.12 ANYTHING. 5.12 sorta kinda (like, exactly) implies FREE CLIMBING.
DMT
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thisflash
Sep 14, 2005, 8:33 PM
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In reply to: Once you tell a really hot girl in the parking lot of the local climbing gym that you climb 5.12. Then your a 5.12 climber.
That's what I've always thought.
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asuclimber
Sep 14, 2005, 8:36 PM
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Is there some great book of climbers that categorizes everyone who has ever climbed by a grade number? Come on now! Who cares? Are you going to go around as the climbing grade Nazi?
"You're a 5.12 climber, you're not, you need one more onsight of a 15.12c to be a 5.12 climber, you're still a 5.11d climber...."
WHO CARES?
I guarantee you you'll never climb 5.15, so what's the difference anyway. There will always be someone who climbs harder than you, and there will always be a grade you can't climb. So just go out and climb.
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james_climber
Sep 14, 2005, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: if youve climbed one .12 youre not a .12 climber. youve just climbed one route of the grade. in order to be a .12 climber (or any other "graded" climber for that matter) you need to climb such routes regullary and in few tries.
agree , i try to make understand some guys , but they have worked more than 50 times a 12 route , now they are thinking that 13 are on the next corner ,
even the cant onsight 11-
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j_ung
Sep 14, 2005, 8:46 PM
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In reply to: Hell, I lead 5.12 trad. Hanging on gear. Standing in slings. Tramming up rope. Hah!
Congratulations! You can now claim, without fear of being called out, that you are an AO climber. :P
Seriously, though, why does it matter? If you tell me you're a 5.12 climber, but you've actually never even seen a route that's harder than 5.2, it doesn't affect my climbing in the slightest. And even if I intend to partner up with somebody from this site who I don't really know, I don't ask, "What are you?" I ask, "At what grade are you currently comfortable?" And even then, when I climb for the first time with that person, no way am I pushing grades -- not theirs and not mine.
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organic
Sep 14, 2005, 8:51 PM
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Ok I am wondering who says they are a 5.12 climber? If someone ever came up to me and was like "Hey I am a 5.12 climber" I would be like "Don't be a foo, foo." Anyways if I ever want to spray I say, I climbed that 5.12 or I onsighted your MOM. SHUT UP! I HATE YOU ALL!
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curt
Sep 14, 2005, 9:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Once you tell a really hot girl in the parking lot of the local climbing gym that you climb 5.12. Then your a 5.12 climber. That's what I've always thought.
Yeah, but then you gotta hope that she never, ever sees you climb.
Curt
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