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desertwanderer81


Apr 17, 2009, 6:50 PM
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Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags?
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For me, it's Joshua Tree as the most over rated and Ragged Mountain in CT as the most under rated.


kachoong


Apr 17, 2009, 7:06 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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You talking grades or crag quality?


desertwanderer81


Apr 17, 2009, 7:09 PM
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Re: [kachoong] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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quality.

Grades are a whole different issue all together...heh.


jamesellis


Apr 17, 2009, 7:27 PM
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Underrated: Index, WA


ryanb


Apr 17, 2009, 7:39 PM
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Re: [jamesellis] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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Index is the best crag i have climbed at (I may head out there tomorrow weather permitting) but its been getting a lot of press lately and its hard to call somewhere that justin sjong called the coolest crag in the country in alpinist underrated :)

On a side note, it also has a potential access closure or purchase effort pending: http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Town.htm so if any of you want to experience it and haven't make sure you support the access fund/washington climbers coalition purchase effort or it just might get turned into counter tops.


jamesellis


Apr 17, 2009, 7:46 PM
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Re: [ryanb] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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Yeah I guess that's true it has been getting more popular lately but in prior years it was a relatively unknown gem.

I'll be out there on Sunday. Should be nice.


desertwanderer81


Apr 17, 2009, 8:00 PM
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Re: [jamesellis] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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Oh very cool. I've actually never heard of Index before but after looking at the rock, it looks pretty amazing. I may have to take a nice week long road trip up those parts some day soon :D


sspssp


Apr 17, 2009, 9:23 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
For me, it's Joshua Tree as the most over rated and Ragged Mountain in CT as the most under rated.

I've always thought JT really overrated. A lot of very good climbers live in SoCal and a lot of the Yosemite hardmen of yore, used to winter there, so it has gotten a ton of press and history, but as far as the climbing goes? Sheeish. What it lacks in quality it makes up for in quantity: a half dozen good routes and 3 or 4 thousand lines of choss.

For under rated do you mean "looked down on" or "just not known about"? I remember getting back from a trip to Jack's Canyon and seeing one of the climbing rags list it as one of "ten worst crags"; I thought it was pretty fun place for the middle of winter (better than going to JT).


(This post was edited by sspssp on Apr 17, 2009, 9:25 PM)


chopperjohn


Apr 17, 2009, 10:36 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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I'm a small time climber on a small time crag. crowders mt. in gastonia NC is under rated in my opinion. Most people hate it because they hit and leave it,but if you climb there as much I do you learn there are more positives than negatives. There are chimneys, cracks,roofs and 5.4s to high 5.12s maybe .13 or two. I dont have an over rated being that I'm not a picky climber I like choss and shit rock as long as it can be climb I'm game.


ryanb


Apr 17, 2009, 10:49 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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I'd suggest taking at least two weeks in summer early fall and planing on hitting up index, leavenworth and washington pass depending on what exactly the weather does and what styles you prefer. That would be quite the trifecta of underrated NW granite.

James, cool. I wonder if we know each other? I'll be out there or at some other underrated crag further east, haven't quite decided yet.


sspssp


Apr 17, 2009, 10:59 PM
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ryanb wrote:
I'd suggest taking at least two weeks in summer early fall and planing on hitting up index, leavenworth and washington pass depending on what exactly the weather does and what styles you prefer. That would be quite the trifecta of underrated NW granite.

Yea, I did exactly that on the way to Squamish one summer. Although when you are in a new area, a few days each doesn't really give you enough time to figure a new place out. Wa pass was my fav, did one of the Early Winter Spires route, it was pretty cool.


donald949


Apr 17, 2009, 11:30 PM
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Re: [ryanb] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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ryanb wrote:
Index is the best crag i have climbed at (I may head out there tomorrow weather permitting) but its been getting a lot of press lately and its hard to call somewhere that justin sjong called the coolest crag in the country in alpinist underrated :)

On a side note, it also has a potential access closure or purchase effort pending: http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Town.htm so if any of you want to experience it and haven't make sure you support the access fund/washington climbers coalition purchase effort or it just might get turned into counter tops.
Hey sorry for the thread drift, but I got a quick question on Great Northern Slab at Index.
How's the climbing? I mean most of the stuff at Index looks steep and long. More than I want to take on. But the photo's of GNS make it look short, really short, barely more than bouldering short. Not much of a crag as a bunch of broken up sections. But when I look at Clint's online topo it looks reasonable, 1-2 pitches. Lots of moderates. As I'll be WA on vacation visiting friends with the family I would like spend a couple days someplace doing some nice cragging. I like doing 200-400 foot 7's and 8's.
Thanks for the beta. Can PM me if this is drifting too off topic. Don.


ryanb


Apr 17, 2009, 11:54 PM
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Re: [donald949] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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The great northern slab is about 200 feet and change but most parties do it in 2-4 pitches as there are at least 10 high quality fun pitches /variations that wander back and forth and a few excellent belay ledges. It can be crowded on weekends so go midweek if you are on vacation.

Aries/the lizard is an excellent "test piece" 4 pitch 5.8 (p1: vertical fists, p2: slick fingers in a corner p3: bombay chimney (or bypass to the left :) p4: steep underclinging) or if you are looking for a more relaxed time climb the left gully to the railroad bolts (you will know them when you see them...take a picture of your belay:), make a weird move off the belay and then take either the of the two stellar 5.6 crack systems up the slab (fingers on the left left, hands right) to the four bolt anchor and take turns lowering off and top roping variations including the 10a ring locks to hands "libra crack" before you fully top out.

Castle rock in leavenworth would also be worth a stop if you want something closer to 400 feet.


sidepull


Apr 18, 2009, 12:04 AM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
For me, it's Joshua Tree as the most over rated and Ragged Mountain in CT as the most under rated.

agree. let the talk of sacrilege commence.


climbsomething


Apr 18, 2009, 12:42 AM
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Re: [sspssp] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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sspssp wrote:
desertwanderer81 wrote:
For me, it's Joshua Tree as the most over rated and Ragged Mountain in CT as the most under rated.

I've always thought JT really overrated. A lot of very good climbers live in SoCal and a lot of the Yosemite hardmen of yore, used to winter there, so it has gotten a ton of press and history, but as far as the climbing goes? Sheeish. What it lacks in quality it makes up for in quantity: a half dozen good routes and 3 or 4 thousand lines of choss.

For under rated do you mean "looked down on" or "just not known about"? I remember getting back from a trip to Jack's Canyon and seeing one of the climbing rags list it as one of "ten worst crags"; I thought it was pretty fun place for the middle of winter (better than going to JT).
Wow. You and jt512 could go on in stereo.

I agree that Jacks has an undeserved bad rap, but locally, it's not really underrated. The place crawls with people from all over Arizona and a fair amount of road-trippers. It might be one of the most popular crags in the state.

I've climbed there, and liked it fine, but I still think Boulder as a whole is overrated. And this is coming from somebody who lives in Flagstaff, has a couple of dogs on the couch and some organic wheat germ in the pantry, has posed down at Priest Draw in a red sporty top for more than one photo outing, and has slept in a Subaru.


crackmd


Apr 18, 2009, 2:54 AM
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Re: [sidepull] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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There really isn't anyplace I'd rather climb in the winter than Jtree. It seems like it's falling out of favor with today's instant gratification types. That's all I'll say since I don't want to be accused of commencing the sacrilege.


phang_nga


Apr 18, 2009, 3:03 AM
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Re: [crackmd] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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Railey and Tonsai in Krabi are overrated in my opinion. There are tons of places to climb that are much, much more scenic and a lot less crowded.

There is so much rock here that's unclimbed that it boggles the mind why everyone heads to these overrated destinations... you couldn't pay me to climb at either place.

Flame away Crazy


mar_leclerc


Apr 18, 2009, 3:05 AM
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I dont know about overrated but the most underrated is Harrison Bluffs.... it gets no traffic but the lines are phenomenal...


climbingtrash


Apr 18, 2009, 3:19 AM
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Overrated - Yosemite. Good climbing but the place is a ghetto and needs a good decade of rest.

Underrated - I'm not telling.Cool


braaaaaaaadley


Apr 18, 2009, 3:23 AM
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I'll bite:

Under: Ship Rock (NC)
Over: The New (you heard)


randyb


Apr 18, 2009, 3:59 AM
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Some may call it "Local Choss" but Shelf Road has some great moderate to hard climbs!


CTclimbah


Apr 18, 2009, 12:05 PM
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over rated: Rumney
under rated: Shagg and Lions Den.

i'd disagree about ragged...there's plenty of other stellar traprock that isn't as trafficked.


shorty


Apr 19, 2009, 12:15 AM
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Re: [climbsomething] Most Over Rated/Under Rated Crags? [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
I've climbed there, and liked it fine, but I still think Boulder as a whole is overrated.

If you're talking about Boulder as a place to live, more than a few of us would agree. IMO, it's a fun place to visit, but not my permanent cup of tea.

If you're talking about the general quality of daily-accessible climbing from Boulder (or nearby communities), I beg to differ with your assessment. Yes, we have some over-rated, over-climbed crags (aka one of the walls you visited in Clear Creek Canyon). But we also have a variety of high quality crags and routes. The Colorado masses tend to congregate around a few well-known routes & cliffs. A few extra car miles and some additional steps open a wealth of uncrowded, high-quality routes.


sungam


Apr 19, 2009, 2:55 AM
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Fisher towers - mega underrated.


climbingtrash


Apr 20, 2009, 12:43 PM
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sungam wrote:
Fisher towers - mega underrated.

You had a good time on those mud piles did ya?

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