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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 12, 2009, 8:19 PM
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So I was wondering, for whatever reason how people feel about climbing a long sport route in the same style you would multi-pitch climb. I want to get into multi-pitch climbing, but currently only have 1 rope and not as many quickdraws as I'd like.
The way we would try this is as follows. Assume the route is 10 bolts and we have 6 draws. Climb the first 6 bolts as normal, then upon reaching the 6th bolt, climb the draw into the bolt, but then directly into our harness.
Now we can go off belay, untie, and hook up a biner + ATC to belay the bottom person basically like a top rope. Once the follower has climbed and cleaned the first 5, he can continue up the rest of the route.
One problem I see know, is if he wasn't able to clip into the 6th bolt, a fall before the 7th bolt would be uncomfortable on both parties and the leader could potentially fall into the belayer.
The way I would fix this is use a sling or piece of webbing to move way to the side of the route as the belayer, either setting pro or girth hitching around a bolt on the route to the left or right side since where I climb has side by side routes very close together.
Once the new leader has reached the chains, he threads the rope through just one of the top biners, and clips the other biner into his harness.
Obviously when he is clipped in, he goes off belay, unties and sets up his belay device. Next the lower climbing ties in and unclips from the 6th bolt he was stationed at, climbing to the top of the route.
Both climbers are at the top, you can rapel all the way down as long as you have enough rope for both parties to do so. If not, a piece of gear would have to be left at about the 6th bolt.
Let me know what you guys think, and if this is safe. a 10 bolt route would not be hard to redpoint normally, but we want to get comfortable with multipitching before we decide to do it on a 300ft+ cliff
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tedman
Oct 12, 2009, 8:37 PM
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1 bolt does not equal an anchor. Bad idea and sounds very uncomfortable unless there happens to be a ledge there. Just take the route you want to do and do the first two pitches of it. It also sounds like you might want to brush up on the practice of anchoring yourself in at bolted belays. Dont use quickdraws, you will have no room to manage rope and they arnt locking.
Get a longer sling and girth hitch it to your harness, then use a locker to attach it to a bolt. Do the same thing with another sling and attach it to the other bolt. Alternativly you can create a masterpoint which incorporates both bolts into one system using two lockers and a longer sling, and then the climbers clip into this single masterpoint with lockers.
Do some more reading on it or find someone who knows what they are doing. Also make sure you know how to rappel safely, since thats probly the way you will be getting down.
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thedejongs
Oct 12, 2009, 8:44 PM
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"Let me know what you guys think, and if this is safe."
Unleash the flames.
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cloudbreak
Oct 12, 2009, 8:58 PM
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Take a class.
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krosbakken
Oct 12, 2009, 9:36 PM
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buy more quick draws. and never use one bolt as an anchor, not smart. YUR GONNA DIE! 
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johnwesely
Oct 12, 2009, 10:01 PM
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You are going to kill yourself rock climbing. Every post you have made today has shown this to be true. I am pretty sure you are a troll. Try this system though. I am relatively sure it will make you so uncomfortable that you will just want to come down. But seriously, you have no idea what you are doing and you either need to take a class or do a whole lot of reading, so you can at least have a rudimentary understanding of multipitch.
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oldsalt
Oct 12, 2009, 10:06 PM
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This post is a good exercise for you. Planning various types of climbs as an academic exercise can be very beneficial.
Next, getting your butt toasted by people who have much more experience than you is therapeutic. I suppose more so for them, but that is another issue.
Finally, consult face to face with someone who knows what he/she is doing. At your level of experience, YOU CAN'T JUDGE THE QUALITY OF ADVICE YOU GET ONLINE.
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bandycoot
Oct 12, 2009, 10:09 PM
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OK, this is the top of the front page, so I'm not doing any bumping favors. Typically, I ignore these obvious trolls. Why can't everyone else? Just let them fade, and hopefully they'll stop in the future. C'mon people, just walk away...
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Oct 12, 2009, 10:09 PM)
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 12, 2009, 11:20 PM
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Well I'm glad that some people actually answered my question instead of flaming. I don't even know what a troll is, but if it makes you guys feel good to flame and talk shit about me feel free, I can take it.
Anyways I see that this is not such a great idea. I'm actually pretty experienced in TR and Sport Climbing, and I was just exploring my options and looking for more experienced views before I went out and tried it. It's late fall and I wouldn't be attempting to do this until the summer, and until I was sure it's safe.
To me, it seems like that is the point of the forum, to get more experience and to learn.
Thanks for the honest answers
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slablizard
Oct 12, 2009, 11:24 PM
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I think it's a great idea..
buy also a portaledge and take a nap every 5-6 bolts
you might also want a complete trad rack just to see how it feels on a sport climb.
Are you serious?
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kachoong
Oct 12, 2009, 11:28 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Now we can go off belay, untie, and hook up a biner + ATC to belay the bottom person basically like a top rope. Once the follower has climbed and cleaned the first 5, he can continue up the rest of the route.
Do you always untie when you reach a belay? 
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 13, 2009, 5:38 AM
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kachoong wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: Now we can go off belay, untie, and hook up a biner + ATC to belay the bottom person basically like a top rope. Once the follower has climbed and cleaned the first 5, he can continue up the rest of the route. Do you always untie when you reach a belay?
In a situation like this, would it be better to stay tied in, just pull all the slack through and then set up the ATC?
I suppose it seems a little less cumbersum to keep the rope tied to your hardpoints and just belay around it.
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patto
Oct 13, 2009, 7:37 AM
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The sad fact is that it seems that this poster in genuine.
p8ntballsk8r PLEASE, PLEASE STOP CLIMBING.
At least until you get a clue.
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cantbuymefriends
Oct 13, 2009, 9:22 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: In a situation like this, would it be better to stay tied in, just pull all the slack through and then set up the ATC?
(And what do you mean with "just pull all the slack through"? I usually just pull the rope up.)
And, as previous posters have said, do not belay off of a single bolt, or any other single piece of gear.
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johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 11:27 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: kachoong wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: Now we can go off belay, untie, and hook up a biner + ATC to belay the bottom person basically like a top rope. Once the follower has climbed and cleaned the first 5, he can continue up the rest of the route. Do you always untie when you reach a belay? In a situation like this, would it be better to stay tied in, just pull all the slack through and then set up the ATC? I suppose it seems a little less cumbersum to keep the rope tied to your hardpoints and just belay around it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlKL_EpnSp8
Listen to the first verse. It applies to your situation.
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csproul
Oct 13, 2009, 12:29 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: .... I'm actually pretty experienced in TR and Sport Climbing,...
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Shintao
Oct 13, 2009, 5:21 PM
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I'm actually pretty experienced in TR and Sport Climbing,
IF (and only IF) this is a true statement, whoever taught you how to sport or TR is a moron. That you would even consider setting an anchor with one bolt....
You ever notice at the top of a sport route there are two bolts?????? It isn't because someone had spare bolts in their pockets. However I don't necessarily oppose people who do not know what they are doing. I say let Darwin act. Just please inform us all of where you climb so that we can be sure not to walk underneath you when you deck.
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zeke_sf
Oct 13, 2009, 5:28 PM
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patto wrote: The sad fact is that it seems that this poster in genuine. p8ntballsk8r PLEASE, PLEASE STOP CLIMBING. At least until you get a clue.
Nah, this is way too classic troll stuff, what with the "what is this 'troll' you speak of?" all the way to the "thanks to those who weren't dicks and answered poor me and now I can continue to reel 'em in" ending. And if it's not a troll, it's still a troll. TROLL!!!!
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 13, 2009, 5:46 PM
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Man my buddy was right when he said there are two types of experienced climbers: snobs and people willing to help.
Anyways this post has discouraged me from trying multipitch until I get more gear, take a class, or go with someone who is very experienced and will lay everything out for me and why we do it that way.
I'll stick to just regular sport climbing because I'm positive I can do this safely and minimize risk. I suppose I'd rather push myself and learn to climb 5.11's and 5.12's on a shorter route than climb much lower grades for a longer distance.
Even those of you who berated me, I appreciate it because you potentially saved me from doing something stupid. Keep in mind there is a reason I'm asking these questions before doing them, I do have somewhat of a level head on my shoulders
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zeke_sf
Oct 13, 2009, 6:26 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Man my buddy was right when he said there are two types of experienced climbers: snobs and people willing to help.
Wow, p8ntballsk8r, your buddy pretty much summed up all the possible options here. I'm obviously a snob since I pointed out you're a troll. Truth is, I'm a huge fan of single-point anchors, pitching out long sport routes (sport routes should have, at max, 4 bolts anyway), and your obvious farce plaing on my deeply held beliefs hurts deep. Think before you troll before you drive me crazy!
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justroberto
Oct 13, 2009, 9:53 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: I suppose I'd rather push myself and learn to climb 5.11's and 5.12's on a shorter route than climb much lower grades for a longer distance.
Nice touch.
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joewtc
Oct 14, 2009, 2:37 AM
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hey p8ntballsk8r, your idea is "doable", but the current standard or how most people are doing with an anchor is min. 2 bolts for sport and min. 3 points for trad. The reason is to have extra backup just in case your ONE AND ONLY ONE anchor fail.
I personally have seen a bolt felt off after my friend finished a single pitch climb. It's pretty scary to see but it does happen. So, it's always good to have redunduncy and backup.
I'd use your method/idea in "emergency situation" where no other solutions exist.
Climb safe and enjoy a long climbing life! Don't compromise safety for a few quickdraws' worth of money.
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subantz
Oct 14, 2009, 7:08 AM
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He only has 3 Draws every climb is a miltipitch for him. I wonder if he got a good deal at homedepot for his rope?
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king_rat
Oct 14, 2009, 11:52 AM
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Climbing isn’t rocket science but its important o have a good grasp of the basics before you start messing round at heights.
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king_rat
Oct 14, 2009, 11:52 AM
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I suppose in someway its better to air these ideas on a forum like this, at least that way you can be told just how bad the idea is. before you go ahead and try them out
Belaying off one bolt is a bad enough, but then your plan would involve the second member of your party climbing past the bolt. If they were to fall at that point they would put massive shock on to a single bolt, followed by two climbers hanging off one bolt. If that one bolt fails the two of you would either be seriously injured or killed. The thought of it makes my ass pucker.
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