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flyinghatchet
Mar 3, 2003, 8:24 PM
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I just recently visited a website and found an anti-chalk page. What are your opinions on chalk, and do you know anyone that is anti-chalk? The website is http://minnesotaclimbing.tripod.com/nochalk.htm
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curt
Mar 3, 2003, 8:39 PM
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Chalk is not required in climbing unless you prefer to stay on the rock, as opposed to slipping off of it.
Curt
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phaedrus
Mar 3, 2003, 8:41 PM
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While I'm not anti-chalk, I definitely prefer a minimalist approach to the use of "white courage" for a number of reasons, and I encourage the kids on my climbing team to use as little as possible.
A while back someone posted that their local gym wall would not allow chalk, which I found rather unusual since I'd never heard of an indoor facility banning chalk. Turns out the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO forbids chalk on their walls as well.
I can't help but wonder what people first thought when John Gill introduced chalk to the sport. I hear people talk about how the Mad Rock heel structure (and I notice Five Ten's SouthWest has a similar configuration now) is "cheating" when it comes to heel hooks; I wonder if people thought the same about chalk....
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andy_lemon
Mar 3, 2003, 8:45 PM
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I think Gill was the first to use chalk... It pretty much caught on after that since Gill was climbing 2 grades harder than everybody.
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w6jxm
Mar 3, 2003, 8:58 PM
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I can see how chalk would definately be an issue in certain access areas where the public has widespread use of the area as well as climbers. In the whole debate of not bolting for access issue reasons, I always contend that chalk is more of an "eyesore" to the public than a few rock colored hangers. But aside from that, in areas just for climbers like JT or the Valley, chalk up and lets get going. Some gyms might not like loose chalk so they might make balls mandatory. But if there is not a policy against it from some reason that might make a chalk substitue a good idea, I say bring on the real stuff.
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curt
Mar 3, 2003, 9:08 PM
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Gill was the first to introduce gymnastics chalk to climbing.
In reply to: I think Gill was the first to use chalk... It pretty much caught on after that since Gill was climbing 2 grades harder than everybody.
However, at the time he was probably climbing 4 grades harder than anybody else (bouldering 5.13 equivalent in 1957) no wonder it caught on.
Curt
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madriver
Mar 3, 2003, 9:21 PM
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I can understand the concerns when used Indoors. I'm allways joking about "Chalk Lung" at the gym and at comps. When you see how thick it is in the air, while in a gym for five hours..? I joke about it but I wonder if it is a problem? Oh well, when some lab rat with grow a fifth leg due to over exposeur (sp) of chalk dust we can file a class action law suit..?
Cough....cough...
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beercanclimber
Mar 4, 2003, 1:10 AM
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chalk is the shit, esp when you run outta cash, you can bag it up and sell it to desperate tweakers for like 1000% profit.
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madriver
Mar 4, 2003, 1:12 AM
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OUCH...!!!!!!!!
Signed...
Scarface :shock:
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calamity_chk
Mar 4, 2003, 2:57 AM
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i love chalk, but it doesnt like me ..
:cry:
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jono13
Mar 4, 2003, 3:37 AM
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haha, what a bunch of bullshit, whats next? "real climbers dont use shoes!" please, idiots :roll:
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camhead
Mar 4, 2003, 4:01 AM
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so... lemme get it straight. Minnesota does not allow chalk? so, we have to tackle their 5.6 choss-trad fests on the rock's own terms? geez.
I'll catch hell for that.
chalk is cheating. so are shoes, tape, ibuprofin, and training.
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andy_lemon
Mar 4, 2003, 4:08 AM
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Thanks Curt, I said that... :? Anyhow, one of his hardest problems was in the 1964 area, at Pennyrile State Park in Kentucky and it is a hard 12. Not a 13.
But yeh, I think chalk had to help. That is why I use it. If it didn't work I wouldn't pay for it.
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brianthew
Mar 4, 2003, 5:51 AM
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Hey now....don't be hatin' on Minnesota's climbing....
It's just the North Shore area that has an anti-chalk local ethic.
And we've got some hard routes.....some 5.7d stuff......like Red Wall and Joint Project at Taylor's Falls. Good warm up climbs. :mrgreen:
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curt
Mar 4, 2003, 6:56 AM
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Andy,
In reply to: Thanks Curt, I said that... Anyhow, one of his hardest problems was in the 1964 area, at Pennyrile State Park in Kentucky and it is a hard 12. Not a 13.
That may be, but the Center Route on Red Cross Rock in the Tetons is probably at least V8 today--solid 5.13, and Gill did this in 1957. Hence my reference.
Curt
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curt
Mar 4, 2003, 6:59 AM
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Brianthew,
In reply to: Hey now....don't be hatin' on Minnesota's climbing....
Agreed. Mike's Boulder is GREAT. Probably the best boulder in Minnesota. Except of course that it isn't actually in Minnesota by about 20 feet. Anyway--it's great.
Edited to add: Do any of you current Minnesota climbers know who Mike's boulder is named for? I used to climb with him.
Curt
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josephine
Mar 5, 2003, 9:44 AM
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I'm an anti-chalk,i hate chalk because chalk hates me...I use it very rare only in the gym...
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dangermonkey
Mar 9, 2003, 8:27 AM
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Chalk it up.
I am a chalk whore.
I think of climbing and my hands sweat.
When I climb.
I chalk.
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apollodorus
Mar 9, 2003, 10:32 AM
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The best thing is to use cocaine hydrochloride in your chalk bag. That way, you can lick your hands when you get pumped, and get another few feet up before your heart blows out for good.
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moeman
Mar 9, 2003, 2:55 PM
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Here is perhaps the best possible prank that uses chalk. Take a bow of powedered sugar donuts. Then liberally spronkle chalk over them. It will look exactly like the sugar. But when some unscrupulous bastard tries to steal a donut and bites down into it, it won't exactly taste like sugar.
They go :( then :cry: then :x then :evil:
You go :roll: then :) then :D then :twisted:
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karma274
Mar 11, 2003, 2:39 AM
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dude, there are boulders in MN that are way better than Mikes.
In reply to: Brianthew, In reply to: Hey now....don't be hatin' on Minnesota's climbing.... Agreed. Mike's Boulder is GREAT. Probably the best boulder in Minnesota. Except of course that it isn't actually in Minnesota by about 20 feet. Anyway--it's great. Edited to add: Do any of you current Minnesota climbers know who Mike's boulder is named for? I used to climb with him. Curt |
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curt
Mar 11, 2003, 2:49 AM
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In reply to: dude, there are boulders in MN that are way better than Mikes.
Well ,I already more than hinted that Mike's boulder is actually in Wisconsin. But, I'll bite anyway. What "better" boulders are you referring to?
Curt
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ruff
Mar 11, 2003, 2:51 AM
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I think some places like moab and Canyon lands national Park should ban white chalk, because it's extreamly noticable on red sandstone and it does take away from the natural beueity of the landscape, but I think that red chalk should be allowed, or at least encouraged. I also think that people should be able to use chalk preaty much everywere else.
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beercanclimber
Mar 11, 2003, 3:16 AM
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In reply to: The best thing is to use cocaine hydrochloride in your chalk bag. That way, you can lick your hands when you get pumped, and get another few feet up before your heart blows out for good.
nahh would probably only make your mouth really numb.
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