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hibby11
Feb 2, 2005, 8:50 PM
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So i'm going to class today like 2nd day of the semster and our teacher surprises us by saying "hey you guys wanna see a trick" unknowning of his love for rock climbing, he walks over to the door frame and does a one pinky one arm pull up. I was completely amazed and surprised to see this and am wondering if anyone else on this site can or knows someone that can? I've only before today heard of people doing 2 finger one arm pull ups. Just thought i'd share my excitement
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taualum23
Feb 2, 2005, 8:54 PM
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On the door frame? That is impressive. About 13-14 years ago (I think, there have been some intervening memory-clouders applied) I watched Christian Griffith do a one arm one pinky on thin cord. Now...disclaimer time. I think it was Christian, I could be wrong. I think it was on thin cord, I could be wrong.
Man, I broke my brain.
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hibby11
Feb 2, 2005, 8:59 PM
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haha
oh and another thing, some kid in the class, wasn't impressed and asked the teach to try it with his left arm. Teach says no thats too tough u come up and try it. So the kid (big muscle football player) walked up almost fell on his a**, then tried doing one hand, failed. Then finally did a two handed all fingers one, gives the teacher his credit and sits down for the rest of the class in complete silence.
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tradnomad
Feb 2, 2005, 9:34 PM
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That is impressive! How big was the door frame?
A climber from Kingston (Ontario), Rob Chisnall, used to be able to do one arm pull-ups on each finger of each hand (sometime in the 80s). He also held the Guiness record for one arm and one finger pull-ups.
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hibby11
Feb 2, 2005, 10:01 PM
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The width of the edging* is probably around an inch or so.
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fishbelly
Feb 2, 2005, 10:32 PM
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Years ago one cold rainy Sat. afternoon at Seneca. The weather chased us off the rock. A good growd gathered in the Gendarme around the wood stove. Tells of exploits past and future were being told with the greatest of sicereity as only climber can do. A person who had been setting there quietly listening stands up. Jumps up and grabs the bottom of two rafters in pinch grips, cranks out a few pull ups and walks out.
It gave a group of well lubricated climbers a pause to catch our breaths!
Then we started on the subject how gymnist are ruining climbing and need for 3 points of contact :)
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overlord
Feb 3, 2005, 1:07 PM
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that IS impressive. how hard does he climb??? with that kind of strength he should be able to climb almost anything.
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fire_eyes
Feb 3, 2005, 2:11 PM
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School is going to be a lot more fun for you from now on! Smart teacher. See if you can go climbing with him!! Relative climbing to strength though, I am a girl who can do 7 pull-ups (with two arms) but can only climb 5.9, easy 5.10, because I still haven't finished reading, or have been able to implement, The Warrior's Way. My chicken s**t mind keeps me down...
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bear829
Feb 3, 2005, 2:32 PM
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That's nuts! I can do a dead hang, but only like a couple of pull ups. I suck at stuff like that. He's gotta climb a lot. (As if everyone didn't know that already.....duh! Brain is non existant if you haven't noticed.)
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hibby11
Feb 3, 2005, 2:53 PM
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Yah he's my math teacher so it was totally out of left field, but he climbs 5.12-5.13, and talked to me about going out west climbing. Since i'm from MN I haven't been to many bigtime climbing areas except for Devils Tower. So just listening to all of his stories was fun. This class is gonna be awesome
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crimpandgo
Feb 3, 2005, 3:17 PM
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In reply to: School is going to be a lot more fun for you from now on! Smart teacher. See if you can go climbing with him!! Relative climbing to strength though, I am a girl who can do 7 pull-ups (with two arms) but can only climb 5.9, easy 5.10, because I still haven't finished reading, or have been able to implement, The Warrior's Way. My chicken s**t mind keeps me down...
some people on this site tend to say that there is no relationship between the number of pull-ups you can do and how hard you climb. I just got done reading a book from Pete Tekada (Wicked climbs I think is the name) and he talks about one of his friend doing like 1000 pull-up or push-ups a day. Try that sometime. :)
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bustloose
Feb 3, 2005, 3:30 PM
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while it does make for a pretty cool story, i just don't buy it man. the only people i have seen do on finger one arms have been on webbing, or cord, especially for your pinky. dude, you need to be able to close your hand. that being said, if what you say is actually true, then this man has tendons stronger than anyone i have ever seen or heard of, and that is saying quite a lot.
there is absolutely no correlation between being able to do one arm pull ups and climbing hard, never has been, never will be. I will use Rob Chisnall as an example, i met him forever ago, yes the man can do one arm pull ups till the sun goes down, but i don't beleive he ever climbed harder than about 5.12... one armers are a party trick, plain and simple, an impressive party trick to be sure, but they have no bearing on how hard you can crank.
crimpdango, if you just finished reading this book, one would think you could at least remember the name of it?
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fire_eyes
Feb 3, 2005, 3:47 PM
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Well, my goal is to be able to do 10 pull-ups in a row. A friend of mine has promised me a reward if I can get to 12...If you think of the name of that book, lemme know.
Oh, and the guy he mentions doing the 1000 pull-up/sit-ups a day...how hard can he climb?
I really wonder if there is any correlation...prolly not. :?
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hibby11
Feb 3, 2005, 3:51 PM
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Oh i totally agree that isn't a measure of how good of a climber he is, I was just amazed at this when i saw it. Its still either way a killer party trick
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tradnomad
Feb 3, 2005, 3:54 PM
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In reply to: there is absolutely no correlation between being able to do one arm pull ups and climbing hard, never has been, never will be. I will use Rob Chisnall as an example, i met him forever ago, yes the man can do one arm pull ups till the sun goes down, but i don't beleive he ever climbed harder than about 5.12... one armers are a party trick, plain and simple, an impressive party trick to be sure, but they have no bearing on how hard you can crank.
While I agree that the number of one arm pullups you can do does not necessarily correllate to climbing hard, Rob has climbed a lot harder than 5.12... He climbed both the Phoenix (5.13a) and Midnight Lightning in Yosemite in the early 80s (early repeats of both routes I think), and there's a 5.13+ TR route in Kingston that has yet to be repeated... he might have done other hard routes, but that's all he's told me about (he doesn't like to spray :) )
Cheers,
TN
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crimpandgo
Feb 3, 2005, 5:14 PM
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In reply to: while it does make for a pretty cool story, i just don't buy it man. the only people i have seen do on finger one arms have been on webbing, or cord, especially for your pinky. dude, you need to be able to close your hand. that being said, if what you say is actually true, then this man has tendons stronger than anyone i have ever seen or heard of, and that is saying quite a lot. there is absolutely no correlation between being able to do one arm pull ups and climbing hard, never has been, never will be. I will use Rob Chisnall as an example, i met him forever ago, yes the man can do one arm pull ups till the sun goes down, but i don't beleive he ever climbed harder than about 5.12... one armers are a party trick, plain and simple, an impressive party trick to be sure, but they have no bearing on how hard you can crank. crimpdango, if you just finished reading this book, one would think you could at least remember the name of it?
Bustloose,
Why do you feel the need to bust my balls over a simple thing? Must be where you got your name from?
I got the book when I bought the 2005 climbing calander. Frankly I did not pay attention to the name because I did not buy it. I started reading it because I had some free time and ended up getting engrossed in it. Its a very good read. I don't follow big wall climbing much and frankly did not really know who Pete was, but I find he writes a very captivating story.
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crimpandgo
Feb 3, 2005, 5:19 PM
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In reply to: Well, my goal is to be able to do 10 pull-ups in a row. A friend of mine has promised me a reward if I can get to 12...If you think of the name of that book, lemme know. Oh, and the guy he mentions doing the 1000 pull-up/sit-ups a day...how hard can he climb? I really wonder if there is any correlation...prolly not. :?
The name of the book is "Petes wicked book". Yeh, appearantly he very much a hard-$ss climber as well as being able to do pull ups.
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quiteatingmysteak
Feb 3, 2005, 6:22 PM
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Some good home-campus workouts from the early 80's:
Bachar ladder - one foot pvc pipes in a rope ladder every 3 feet at an angle to the tallest tree. Use ropes to get back down or screw up your elbows.
Uneven pullup - when doing pullups, wrap a towel around and grab with one hand 6 inches below, practicing doing offcenter. in a few years you can do 1 handed pullups!
Tube Bars - take a cord, sling between 2 trees. put a 4 inch pvc pipe in between and do pullups on that, its like using a small sloper. for extra fun us a 4 inch and a 6 inch, for offcenter, or a 6 for massive sloper action. really hard to keep from spinning around, hanging good enough challenge.
Hand rail - 2x12 wood about 15 feet horozontally high up offset with a peice of wood between each three feet, going 1", 1.5", 1", 1.5". real good for working on upsidown jams.
ummm oh yeah best way to get stronger is to climb.
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neuroshock
Feb 3, 2005, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: Oh, and the guy he mentions doing the 1000 pull-up/sit-ups a day...how hard can he climb? I really wonder if there is any correlation...prolly not. :? |
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crimpandgo
Feb 3, 2005, 6:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Oh, and the guy he mentions doing the 1000 pull-up/sit-ups a day...how hard can he climb? I really wonder if there is any correlation...prolly not. :? i would doubt that there's much correlation, if any. i'm inclined to guess that 1000 pull-ups/sit-ups goes toward muscle endurance/lactic acid tolerance/stamina much more than strength.
Hmmm, not sure I understand this logic. I realize pure strength is important, definitely for bouldering. But for general climbing, my success or failure is definitely dependant on my endurance/lactic acid tolerance/stamina. Usually I am falling due to arm pump.
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neuroshock
Feb 3, 2005, 8:30 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i would doubt that there's much correlation, if any. i'm inclined to guess that 1000 pull-ups/sit-ups goes toward muscle endurance/lactic acid tolerance/stamina much more than strength. Hmmm, not sure I understand this logic. I realize pure strength is important, definitely for bouldering. But for general climbing, my success or failure is definitely dependant on my endurance/lactic acid tolerance/stamina. Usually I am falling due to arm pump.
at the same time, however, being able to do more 5.11 moves in a row is still climbing 5.11. additionally, people would probably be better off doing laps near or at their limit instead of pull-ups/sit-ups as it would train their body to have stamina for full-body recruitment and non-standard gripping.
of course, what do i know? next time i'll save writing a response to a post 'till after my meetings at work when i have more time instead of trying to get it out right before :)
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collegekid
Feb 3, 2005, 8:59 PM
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Back to the subject...
If your professor can actually perform a one-pinky pullup on a 1inch crimp, he's got phenomenal finger strength...to the point of being a freak.
Sure, you say he climbs 5.12 to 5.13...that's probably onsight, on trad lead. Big difference between cruising 5.12 and spending a few weeks working to redpoint a 5.12...both are climbing 5.12 though.
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sidepull
Feb 3, 2005, 10:00 PM
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In reply to: there is absolutely no correlation between being able to do one arm pull ups and climbing hard, never has been, never will be. I will use Rob Chisnall as an example, i met him forever ago, yes the man can do one arm pull ups till the sun goes down, but i don't beleive he ever climbed harder than about 5.12
I disagree. If you took two groups, group A: 100 guys that can do 1 arm pull-ups Group B: 100 guys that can't do 1 arm pullups, on average, Group A would be able to climb higher grades. In fact, your story proves it, Rob climbs 5.12. While that might seem commonplace to climbers, your average person couldn't get 5 feet up a 5.12 and similarly they couldn't do a 1-arm pull-up.
Or, think about it this way, while every 5.14 climber can't do a 1-arm pullup they are physiologically closer to being able to do one than your average 5.10 climber. There will be a correlation between 1-arms and climbing ability. Is it the key? No, but to dismiss it completely is just as ridiculous as to claim that 1-arms are the key higher grades.
Next time you're climbing with James Litz ask him how many 1-arms he can crank.
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ikefromla
Feb 3, 2005, 10:32 PM
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i don't want to climb hard, i just want to be able to impress the fly hunnies with my one-pinky, one-arm pullups.. oh yeah! :lol:
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p_grandbois
Feb 4, 2005, 12:25 AM
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I am just gonna have to call BS.....only because I am an empirical skeptic and was born this way. I have to see to believe, or hear a personal reliable source....
Cheers Kid
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