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grk10vq
Jul 19, 2005, 6:59 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Nov 7, 2004
Posts: 527
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In reply to: Some people can make boiling water a 21 step task.
:lol:
I rack least to greatest, stoppers on the left, cams on the right (unless I know the climb will require more right hand holds-thus more needed gear on the left to place) Trad draws for stoppers, one and two biner runners for everything else-slung around my shoulder. I color co-ordinate my runners for biner use---ie..grey runners have two biners, blue runners have one biner. If you place a cam, grab a blue, place a nut, grab a draw or grey runner.
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linvillelover
Dec 10, 2007, 3:08 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Oct 19, 2006
Posts: 43
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it seems the most efficient way is several ,5-6, similar hexes and stoppers per carabiner, to match several tripled slings racked as draws,
and one cam per biner racked to match the shoulder slings clipped with one biner.
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evanwish
Dec 12, 2007, 3:19 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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i put all the draws and slings on the front 2 loops of the harness, the back 2 are for my 2 long 30' anchor chords, my atc, grigri, and extendable (trad) draws.
I then use the 2 sided "zodiac gear sling"
and rack starting with small nuts on the front left back to the larger nuts, then to small cams. So the left side goes from micro-nuts up to 1.5"
on the right side it starts with cams from 1.5" to 5.5", then to my set of hexs.
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drjghl
Dec 13, 2007, 3:29 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 135
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Like most, I clip one biner to each cam. It's the fastest way to place, cllp, and go. Each cam already has a short sling. And you should be able to size gear by sight or by feel.
If I carry doubles, I carry one on each side. You never know when you'll hit a crux and you don't want your key piece on the wrong side.
I don't bother placing slings around my chest. I don't like the feeling of having shit flopping around. AND by keeping slings with single biner over your shoulder, you are going to screw yourself one day when you place a nut and you only have one draw left with a single biner. Doh!
Finally, try to buy biners with NO tooth for racking. Sucks when you're gripped and that piece . . . just . . . won't . . . come . . . off . . your harness.
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lonequail
Dec 13, 2007, 4:40 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jun 8, 2004
Posts: 65
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Generally single racking seems to work best for me for #0.5 Camalots and larger.
However, for a large number of cams racked 1/biner, there can be an excessive number of biners on your sling/harness and they tend to jam up. Think of a Creek rack. Two suggestions to play with:
1. Try chaining biners and cams. Clip the first biner (w/ piece) to your sling/harness, then for the second piece of that size clip it to the previous biner rather than to your sling/harness. A third biner can be added but it begins to hang too low.
2. Rack the first one or two pieces of a given size 1/biner as your active rack. Then bunch up several pieces on a single biner as a backup which you can access if needed, or you can do a minor reracking from a rest stance to replenish your active rack.
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