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scoobie
Jul 7, 2005, 3:59 PM
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I send my condolences to his family and friends.You are all in my prayers.
please be safe
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munkeybog
Jul 7, 2005, 9:47 PM
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Boglins, who posted the original messages about Lewis Jones, is my climbing partner. We both knew Lewis and his family well.
Rapelling is an integral part of climbing and arguably the most dangerous. It is important to be fluent and comfortable with the tools of the trade. If you don't know how to use a prusik on a rappel, FIND OUT. If someone you know does not know what a prusik is... TEACH THEM.
It may not have affected our friend's tragedy. And Lew most certainly knew how to use a prusik. But as climbers, we have no excuse for ignorance.
Climb Hard and Climb Safe,
Munkey
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boglins
Jul 8, 2005, 5:38 AM
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Everyone should read the report on the CCC site.
http://www.carolinaclimbers.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=46
It seems that there was a mistake made with the way the anchors were used. The rope apparently unclipped itself from the anchors. It looks like what might have happened is that clippable anchors were clipped from above. Looks like one of two things possibly happened. The first possibility is that the rope between the belay device and anchor clipped through again before rappeling somehow, resulting in just an unsecured bite of rope being in the anchor. The other possibility, the one I believe, is that the rope was coming up from the anchors to begin with and as the rappel started to the left or right of the anchors, the rope rotated around the top of the shuts, and thus the clips, causing them to unclip. The pull of a rappel that starts from above and to the side would force a rope against the clips sideways, then down, unclipping them. That would explain the bent clips.
From what I get from that, this would be so easy to happen again.
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badmammerjammer
Jul 8, 2005, 2:23 PM
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Boglins said above that according to Lewis' uncle the ropes were in the anchors and there was no equipment failure. So it sounds like everything was in its place, Lewis just slipped and had no backup like a prusik to stop his fall.
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ottoman
Jul 8, 2005, 3:04 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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Deepest Sympathy to the family and friends. :arrow: Please read the CCC sites thread.....It appears the rope was on the ground(Out of the anchors) with the climber. Remember, climbing is as safe as you want to make it!
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crimpandgo
Jul 8, 2005, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: Everyone should read the report on the CCC site. http://www.carolinaclimbers.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=46 It looks like what might have happened is that clippable anchors were clipped from above. Looks like one of two things possibly happened. The first possibility is that the rope between the belay device and anchor clipped through again before rappeling somehow, resulting in just an unsecured bite of rope being in the anchor. The other possibility, the one I believe, is that the rope was coming up from the anchors to begin with and as the rappel started to the left or right of the anchors, the rope rotated around the top of the shuts, and thus the clips, causing them to unclip. The pull of a rappel that starts from above and to the side would force a rope against the clips sideways, then down, unclipping them. That would explain the bent clips. From what I get from that, this would be so easy to happen again.
I think I understand what is being explained concerning the anchor failure. I am assuming there were two bolts at the top. I can certainly see how one of the bolts may have come unclipped. It seems like very low probability that both bolts became unclipped by the same rope motion necessary to release the gates. :shock: That is definitely an eye opening issue.
As others have said, know the ins and outs of the hardware on the climb to make sure you are using it safely.
again, condolences to the family
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boglins
Jul 8, 2005, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2003
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Despite everything that has been said by Lewis' uncle, it does look like the rope unclipped itself from the anchors and Lewis fell free. It seems that EVERYONE had a bit of misunderstanding. According to the accident report, apparently the rope was on the ground after becoming unclipped. The rappel used was the rappel for Odyssey, an aid line. That rappel uses clippable shuts. Lewis was not rappeling on Boardwalk. NEVER TRY TO USE CLIPPABLE SHUTS FROM ABOVE. THEY ARE ONLY FOR CLIPPING FROM BELOW, USUALLY ON ONE PITCH SPORT ROUTES. Please, everyone, learn from this tragedy.
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gunkiemike
Jul 8, 2005, 11:50 PM
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Disclaimer - I haven't verified the following.
It seems clear to me that if you clip a rope into a pair of "clippable shuts" from above, and then bring the rope ends together (as you would do to thread a rap device), that when you subsequently bring the ropes downwards between the shuts, both will unclip.
My condolences to the victim's friends and family for this tragedy.
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cjstudent
Jul 9, 2005, 3:10 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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I think this also shows the importance of knowing about the location of where you are climbing, and the descent routes so that you already have the best descent path in your mind incase of a storm or other incident. I think it is stated somewhere that most accidents happen on descent, so this should be a critical part of our trip planning.
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topropeprincess
Jul 11, 2005, 5:00 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2005
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Little Lewis was a friend of mine, and sadly I did not get to go to the funeral or be there to support the family. I just wanted to add a few of my memories to this forum so that some of you might feel closer to Lewis now. I remember some of my most adventurous climbs at looking glass and the new river gorge with Lewis and the other member of team dog. we had secret high fives and dog barks, and if one of the team dog members was bad they had to go sit to the side in the dog pound. we drove in the car during the night to get to our climbs listening to loud music from rap, country, to Cat Stevens lady cabarill(spelling). at the top of one of our harder climbs that Lewis had to pull me up we sat and looked out over the North Carolina mountains from the anchor. it was so quiet and perfect. we felt so strong and brave, and little Lewis pulled out a cigarette. i didn't smoke, but it felt like the time couldn't be more perfect, so i asked for one too..i just puffed and coughed, and Lewis laughed at my efforts. so, i had to just hold the cigarette and feel cool for the perfect moment at the top of the climb. i remember he was the best gift wrapper at the backpacker, and if i had to have something perfect of fast he would wrap it for me. i think he must have shone me which paper to use at least 10 times. at work when it was slow we would do pull ups or try to hold our arms out to the side in a contest to see who could do it the longest, or who wouldn't give up for a certain time limit. we looked ridiculous as customers saw us with our arms outstretched. he was kind of quiet, but he was always kind. i can't remember little Lewis talking about people behind their back even when everyone else was. he wanted to give everyone a chance. and, that is very respectable. i will miss my friend.
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coylec
Jul 11, 2005, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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I knew Lewis through the Backpacker. He'll be remembered as a source of great information who helped me figure out what I needed when I started climbing. He was an honest, compassionate guy who made sure you were thinking ahead and planning ahead. Lewis always went out of his way to be nice. He will be missed.
coylec
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sarcastico
Jul 12, 2005, 3:23 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2004
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I didn't didn't have the honor of knowing Lewis personally, though his family is friends with my family from way back. My brother knew him from hanging out at the Backpacker while on his lunch break. We went to the visitation Thursday night and there were more people there than at any visitation I've ever attended. The line to pay respects and show support to the family was over 3 hours. His harness was clipped to the door into the visitation room, and his uncle told us the best thing we could do to honor his memory was to go climb, because that was his passion. He really touched a lot of people in his life, and his death is a true tragedy.
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