|
toddr
Jan 12, 2006, 12:16 AM
Post #26 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2001
Posts: 50
|
Would that be the first bolted route to the left? If so, that one is Father Knows Best 5.8. I've been up it twice and it felt harder than an 8. I guess its just a really sustained 5.8.
Todd
|
|
|
|
|
toddr
Jan 12, 2006, 12:18 AM
Post #27 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2001
Posts: 50
|
Would that be the first bolted route to the left? If so, that one is Father Knows Best 5.8. I've been up it twice and it felt harder than an 8. I guess its just a really sustained 5.8.
Todd
|
|
|
|
|
justinm
Jan 12, 2006, 12:32 AM
Post #28 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 7
|
is there a guide book for this place or a guide book with this in it?
|
|
|
|
|
hawesro
Jan 12, 2006, 3:05 PM
Post #29 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2006
Posts: 16
|
The reason I had to leave a rope behind is that the end of the rope somehow tangled into a knot that got caught on the rap rings on the summit. I untangled the rope before I pulled it but I guess it was so twisted up that it knotted again. Luckily I was able to get the two ropes I was using to rappel untied or else I would still be hanging from the belay stance on Mercury's Lead frozen. The guy I was climbing with is pretty novice, so he was freaking out. I wasn't sure if one rope would get us to the ground, but I was lucky enough to be able to barely reach the next set of anchors with one rope. By the time I reached the ground it was 5:30 and the gate to the park closes at 6. (I had to be at work in Atlanta the next day by 9). So I sprinted up to the summit (about 2 miles) to try to retrieve my rope, while my buddy ran to the gate to make sure that the ranger didn't close the gate. I realized when Ii reached the summit that my headlamp batteries were dead. So I was running around the wet slabby summit in a pair of Clarks (NOT approach shoes) in the dark with no headlamp, trying to figure out where the great arch topped out. I finally decided that the $200 rope was not worth a 600 foot fall down the side of the mountain, so I ran back down the trail (in the pitch black dark) and got back down to the bottom to find my friend chatting with the park ranger. So I left my name and phone number with the ranger and he told me that he would try to get someone to retrieve it for me. Apparently, that was Matt. Thanks! Glad to see that there are some honest climbers out there. Also, whoever wrote that "hanging" is some sort of redneck term or black term, what the hell are you talking about. If a rope is dangling from a bolt off the side of a mountain, I would consider it to be "hanging" from the rap station. Let me know if you think that is a hill billy way of speaking.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jan 12, 2006, 3:17 PM
Post #30 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
It was the way you wrote it:
In reply to: Were you by any chance the person that returned my rope to the park ranger that I had to leave hanging from the last belay station
The way it was written, it sounds like you left the ranger hanging, not the rope. Get it?
|
|
|
|
|
hawesro
Jan 12, 2006, 3:28 PM
Post #31 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2006
Posts: 16
|
Thanks for the clarification. The park ranger gave me some lip, so I took him up to the summit and tossed him off the side. You know how it works in North Cacalaca.
|
|
|
|
|
forkliftdaddy
Jan 12, 2006, 4:02 PM
Post #32 of 32
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
|
I think that Father knows best went up AFTER sticky rubber came around. Many of the routes at Stone went up BEFORE sticky rubber. Can you imagine that? Anyway, between the runout -- you can deck if jump while clipping the anchors -- the rock quality, the routefinding required -- it's not a just put your foot down 5.8 -- and the questionable gear that starts the route -- you can get gear after the plants in the initial crack have died back, but not in early season -- Father knows best is definitely a harder 5.8 at Stone.
|
|
|
|
|
|
