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Todd Skinner: Mr. Nice Guy
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Partner j_ung


Feb 7, 2006, 5:37 PM
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There's also that real good story, which I heard first hand from Jason...

Which makes it a third-hand story. The only first-hand story so far in this thread is the original post and as soon as one of us tells it to somebody else, it'll be second-hand, too.

Then why is my story third-hand If I got it first-hand? I wanna be the second hand...that's not fair...

Sigh... You are the second hand. It happened to Jason first hand, you heard it second hand and we read it third hand.


whipperboy


Feb 7, 2006, 6:14 PM
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So we've figured out that Todd is a nice guy, that Todd is an asshole, that Todd is a nice guy with questionable ethics, and that Todd is an asshole with questionable ethics. Though the most negative statements appear to be third hand. We have learned what the difference is between first, second, and third hand information. We have learned that "...Houlihan" has a glue filled mono. And finally, we have learned that the Iris is a choss pile (please let everyone know that, will you?) For my two cents, Todd is a good guy...ethics aside (personally I have no ethics. I'd bag your sister, even if she was married to you. :shock: ).


Partner j_ung


Feb 7, 2006, 7:08 PM
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:lol:

NOW this thread is starting to get good.


stymingersfink


Feb 7, 2006, 10:15 PM
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:lol:

NOW this thread is starting to get good.

and to think it all started with a troll, planted by Mr. Skinner himself!

(at least, this is what a friend of my brother's wife's uncle's girlfriend told my girlfriend, who told me. )


weschrist


Feb 7, 2006, 10:31 PM
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all of lander gets comfortized, i you think todd and paul comfortized all hundreds of them, then you are high on glue. besides, the limestone needs to be comfortized.

you moron, I didn't say anything about comfortizing... I'm talking about the 3 finger pockets drilled into the rock. and limestone does NOT need to be comfortized, you just need to get some vagasil.


whipperboy


Feb 7, 2006, 10:44 PM
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Vagasil won't work in the canyon, dude. With the southern exposure, the rock gets too hot and the vagasil runs. In my opinion, this causes unsightly staining of the rock and also creates the dreaded oil slick perma-tick! Actually, I enjoy the razor blades...shit, I guess I don't need that finger after all!
Oh, and not all of Lander is comfortized, the ditch that I slept in night before last was anything but.


dingus


Feb 7, 2006, 10:44 PM
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Todd Skinner put Chuck Norris in the hospital. He brought a gun to knife fight.

DMT


rockprodigy


Feb 7, 2006, 11:14 PM
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True story: a couple strong SLC climbers went up to try that choss pile (why, I have no idea). They got on it and couldn't do the crux toss off a glue filled 1/2 pad mono, despite 14a being well within their reach, especially powerful ones. Stymied, they went into the Lander climbing store and started asking about the route. Specifically they mentioned that they thought there was some video footage of Todd(?) sinking his finger nearly upto the second knuckle to do that move. They saw the video there and asked if they could watch the footage... the store guy said the VCR was broken. They asked if they could buy a copy... the store guy said that was the only copy they had. They asked if they could rent it and bring it back in an hour... the store guy said it couldn't leave the store.

They left without doing the route and watched the video later. Indeed, Skimmer sinks his finger in WAY deeper than either of them could... due to the hole being filled with glue.

I would be interested to know what video they watched because in Masters of Stone Todd clearly has his finger no deeper than the first knuckle for the crux mono move.

What a grand conspiracy you are suggesting: Todd instructs his employees to pretend the VCR is broken in the event that outsiders come to watch footage of a video that he has in the store. Why would he have it in the store then?

Maybe the VCR was actually broken.

If "comfortizing" = chipping, then add Boone, Mike, Kelly, Tim, Jeff, yours truly and anyone else who's bolted in St George to the list.

If you're truly saying you've seen three finger pockets drilled into blank rock, tell us what route.


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 12:35 AM
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What a grand conspiracy you are suggesting: Todd instructs his employees to pretend the VCR is broken in the event that outsiders come to watch footage of a video that he has in the store. Why would he have it in the store then?

I don't think it is a conspiracy, more like the only friends Todd has are the ones that are willing to treat him like a god and hence shield him from any such defaming. It has happened before... note the incident with not selling hangers to Jason.

In reply to:
If you're truly saying you've seen three finger pockets drilled into blank rock, tell us what route.

It isn't hard to see the handy work at the base of Killer. I also distinctly remember a friend complaining about the obviously drilled pockets on whatever project he was doing in the center of the cave.

And I didn't say comfortizing=chipping, there is a big difference. I don't think either are necessary, but 3 finger drilled pockets are simply stupid.


aaronbr86


Feb 8, 2006, 2:22 AM
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:lol:

NOW this thread is starting to get good.

and to think it all started with a troll, planted by Mr. Skinner himself!

(at least, this is what a friend of my brother's wife's uncle's girlfriend told my girlfriend, who told me. )


you just got a trophy for that one hahaha


rockprodigy


Feb 8, 2006, 2:50 PM
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So we're back to the heresay again.

I've been on Killer, and although it was a few years ago, I think I would have noticed a 3-finger pocket drilled into blank rock. I do agree the route is HEAVILY comfortized...to a much greater extent than anything in St. George.


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 3:48 PM
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I think I would have noticed a 3-finger pocket drilled into blank rock.

Next time you are there just check out the direct start to Killer they were trying to make... pretty obvious 3 finger pockets drilled into the rock below the first bolt. It isn't really hearsay when you can walk up and look directly at them. Also, being 30' below someone who has ample climbing experience who is sliding his fingers in and out of a "perfect" 3 finger pocket with drill marks in the back of it is at least a little better than hearsay.


kyote321


Feb 8, 2006, 3:57 PM
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yes, there is a drilled 3 finger pocket at the base of killer, but most people do the AO start. so what? one can find hundreds of drilled pockets around the country. remember, this was done back the 80s, sort of experimentally. who cares?

limestone gets comfortized, period. who cares if it is more or less than somewhere else?


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 4:13 PM
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yes, there is a drilled 3 finger pocket at the base of killer, but most people do the AO start. so what?

so, it is chipping, which some of Todd's buttboys seem adamant about saying he didn't do... and he obviously did.


saxonyclimber


Feb 8, 2006, 5:42 PM
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yes, there is a drilled 3 finger pocket at the base of killer, but most people do the AO start. so what?

so, it is chipping, which some of Todd's buttboys seem adamant about saying he didn't do... and he obviously did.
Idiot. Todd Skinner put up very few of the routes at Sinks. Killer was equipped by the Greg and Mike Cook and redpointed first by Greg Collins. There is a drilled .13- start to Killer. It's a stupid little slot and maybe another bad pocket. Nobody ever even thinks of doing it. Most of the manufacturing in Killer Cave happend in the blank rock that starts some of the routes in the center of the cave (no, it's not right, but that's how it is). I always get a kick out of the people who insist that the jugs in the cave are manufactured, but ignore the routes on the Hardware wall that go up blatantly chiseled and cut out edges (none of these are Skinner's routes).

I haven't seen Todd in years, but I always knew him to be a kind spirit. If you judge people by their oververall kindness and goodwill, Todd is an outstanding individual.


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 5:53 PM
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It's a stupid little slot and maybe another bad pocket. Nobody ever even thinks of doing it.

Oh, then it is perfectly acceptable, my mistake.

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I always get a kick out of the people who insist that the jugs in the cave are manufactured, but ignore the routes on the Hardware wall that go up blatantly chiseled and cut out edges (none of these are Skinner's routes).

I never insisted the jugs are manufactured, I am insisting that the "perfect" 3 finger pockets with drill bit marks are manufactured.

In reply to:
If you judge people by their oververall kindness and goodwill, Todd is an outstanding individual.

I'm not judging Todd's personality, I'm judging what he has done to the rock. I've heard he is super cool and I have heard he is a super tool. I have had limited interactions with him so I can't judge. But, as someone pointed out, so much negative shit gets said about him that if only 10% of what is said about him is true, he still comes out looking pretty bad.


caughtinside


Feb 8, 2006, 6:01 PM
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Also, being 30' below someone who has ample climbing experience who is sliding his fingers in and out of a "perfect" 3 finger pocket with drill marks in the back of it is at least a little better than hearsay.

Actually, that's exactly hearsay.


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 6:06 PM
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Actually, that's exactly hearsay.

no, as I said, it is a little better than hearsay. From 30' you can pretty easily see 3 identical drill holes, especially when someone is sliding their fingers in and out of them.


caughtinside


Feb 8, 2006, 6:16 PM
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Oh. From 30' you can see drill marks in the back of a pocket? Nice!


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 6:20 PM
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Oh. From 30' you can see drill marks in the back of a pocket? Nice!

I didn't say that dickhole. "From 30' you can pretty easily see 3 identical drill holes, especially when someone is sliding their fingers in and out of them."


caughtinside


Feb 8, 2006, 6:27 PM
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a "perfect" 3 finger pocket with drill marks in the back of it

Yeah, you did.

But whatever. I don't really give a hoot. It's great that you can spot chipped holds at 30'. I know I sure couldn't.

I don't think you know what hearsay means, though.


whipperboy


Feb 8, 2006, 6:29 PM
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Aaaaah....and now is when we need to take a deep breath and go outside to play. I can see Sinks Canyon from where I'm working right now, it's a beautiful sunny day. Talk about f'n torture...goddamn the man!


sidepull


Feb 8, 2006, 6:36 PM
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I heard Burt Bronson had to haul Skinner up those routes and used his acid spit to create the three finger pockets in question. To say otherwise is heresy (which is different than hearsay).


jaybro


Feb 8, 2006, 6:49 PM
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Heresay, wasn't that that soloist?

Comfortizing=chipping, modification is modification, it's not a matter of degree.


weschrist


Feb 8, 2006, 6:51 PM
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a "perfect" 3 finger pocket with drill marks in the back of it

Yeah, you did.

Thanks for telling me what you think I said. I never claimed to see the drill marks in the back of the hole, but you can sure as hell see the hole when someone is sliding their fingers in and out of it.

In reply to:
I don't think you know what hearsay means, though.

I know exactly what hearsay means: "Unverified information heard or received from another; rumor." The drill marks in the back of the pockets are admittedly hearsay, but seeing the 3 identical drill holes right next to each other with my own eyes, and seeing the other drilled pockets in the area with my own eyes is certainly better than hearsay.

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