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beny
Apr 10, 2006, 6:22 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 40
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HO-OOOO
ozoneclimber, i know things.
kappydane, i love that photo. i had the pleasure of that route just 3 days ago. you guys sure were missing out by not climbing the perfect splitter just 10 ft left that is actually the original line. maybe it will be enough to entice you to get back out here soon? a funny story from my first time on that line, maybe 4 years ago? my bud crazy john was approaching the pin but became perty pumped trying to clip the pin. in pure john fashion, he fell off the route, ripping 4 cams and a nut, pulling me into the roof above the belay after taking a 35 footer. but was that enough to call it quits for the day? heck no, he went back up and fired the thing next go. he was never a 5.11 climber, but a 5.12 fighter. pretty fun to watch.
jer, where do i begin? you cook a mean burger. that was the 2nd best meal i've had in arki. the first being freakystyley cooking 3 lbs of steak and 4 lbs of shrimp. and the 3rd best would be when we traded the ku guys ramen noodles for pasta and freshly, fire-roasted turkey. um, boy.
i've seen them models you been talkin bout. they actually reside in the forests above warsaw. why do think i like mo climbing so much?
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kappydane
Apr 10, 2006, 8:31 PM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 119
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Ben, note the rope position in the pic. I put the outside edge of my right foot on the lip of the scar above my right elbow and kind of sqwatted on the edge with a little flake, face hold out to the right. Then took a wipper when the flake broke off. The rope was behind my right leg so I got flipped but top cam in the picture held. That was my first big leader fall. Since it all worked, I got in the same position again but fell again while trying to bridge across while standing up. And I noticed too late that the rope was again going to filp me. Below is a previously unpublished pic that may be a ffa of the route called Flying Squirrel. Note the EB's and NO cams on the rack.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/.../Climb/squirrel1.jpg
Another previously unpublished couple of pics of the start and initial move over the roof on the ffa of the triple overhang.
Layback to the roof
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...4/Climb/triple1e.jpg
Actually fell here but my foot stayed jammed and I flagged without weighting the rope.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...4/Climb/Triple2s.jpg
Reaching for the pocket.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...r4/Climb/triple4.jpg
Just before bringing up my feet and watching the piece under the roof slide down the roof (no cams).
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...r4/Climb/triple5.jpg
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buddha_monkee
Apr 10, 2006, 9:00 PM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Jun 12, 2005
Posts: 32
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hey kappy - why were you climbing in your skivies?? heh!!
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appleby93
Apr 10, 2006, 9:07 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Mar 16, 2006
Posts: 12
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Appleby 93 (that's me)
In reply to: I've never been there but i do know the top doesn't have any trees
Thanks for pointing that out. Dono where I heard that or where I read that. Apparently I made that up.
There's your sign...
Im climbing at Warsaw in two weeks. Thanks.
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kappydane
Apr 10, 2006, 9:08 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 119
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AND the heavy sweat socks. That was the uniform d'jour. I have a great shot on Kloberdanz wearing the required Jim Collins tube socks with the stripes around the top. The DVD (for those in the know) shows Pete Livsey in the same type of outfit back in the day. (thedogfather)
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spraylordfocker
Apr 24, 2006, 6:31 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Jul 12, 2004
Posts: 6
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Just my 2 cents. I wanted to break from the norm of people coming out of the woodwork to bash MO climbing. I want to go on the record saying how much I miss the crags and good folks at the crags around Columbia. Be glad you can enjoy nearly virgin limestone edges, great routes, sporty runouts, and the muddy Missouri R. For me the fun of sketchy access climbing was always fun. Hiding from Boss Hogg and the CHief at Wilton was a blast and never stopped us from climbing. Do you really want overregulated access with pay parking, toilets for tourists, etc like out West?
btw. Big up Beny, sorry I missed you last time.
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