Charles, I think the 3 point sliding X/W is theoreticaly 33/33/33 if there's no knots in it.

What I (YMMV) have been doing is picking my two best bomber pieces and connecting them with a limited knot sliding X with a little extra slack in the strand of the sling with the X in it at the powerpoint. i.e.

Then I have the best possible equalization for my two best pieces, and redundancy with a single 48" sling. That probably all you really need. But sometimes I'll put in a 3rd piece with a sling that's slightly loose to the powerpoint biner as a backup. Or if needed 2 more pieces with another limited knot sliding X (or tied like a cordelette) that's a little loose at the powerpoint biner.

Belayer (plus weight of fallen climber) now falls *six* feet onto the middle piece which is expected to hold the entire weight of the fall. See what I mean?

How do you adjust the 48" sling and the redundant cordalette? Is it possible to see some pictures of your anchors?

Before I go into which anchor setups I like, let me share my concern with your anchor. It's not that impossible that a piece could rip. It happens. Yes, equalizing pieces helps keep that from happening, and any anchor we consider must at least do a good job at distributing, if not equalizing, for me to be happy with it (which is why I don't use the standard cordelette any more). And yes, your anchor does look like it equalizes well.

But what happens if one piece does rip in your anchor?

1 The anchor extends by as much as the rope between pieces, which could be pretty significant. What are the implications?
1a - The belayer can lose their stance, causing them to lose control of the belay.
1b - The belayer can fall onto the anchor.

What happens next?
2 - You now have an anchor which has the worst components of the old cordelette method (non-equalizing) but without the best (minimal extension).
2a - The belayer (plus whatever weight of fallen climber) takes significant falls of one to three feet directly onto each of these pieces in sequence, until one is able to withstand the force of the fall.

In short, I'd say that this anchor setup is not good with tenuous pieces!

Each of these accomplish the same things your anchor does, but with much shorter extension, and without reducing the anchor to a fully non-equalizing one if a single piece rips.

And that's assuming you anticipated such a thing happening. If you didn't anticipate it, and mistakenly set it up so the backup rope goes top->bottom->middle piece, and it's another two feet between the middle and the bottom piece, you now take nearly a factor two *ten* foot fall onto the bottom piece only. Not good.

GO

hmmm ... sounds bad. I do not understand this, sorry. Could I ask you to explain?

cracklover, in a vertical crack I think it would be better to tie powerpoint --> bottom piece --> middle piece --> top piece with the climbing rope, dont you think?

Yup. I mentioned that.

GO

If any of the three pieces blows there will only be minimal extension, at least as far as I'm able to analyze it. Maybe you analyzed the setup not considering the climbing rope, or do you still think that it will shock load severely? I'm sorry that the illustrations are confusing. I'd rather have pictures like the ones you have.

Similarly, if you set the backup rope to go to the bottom piece first, then the belayer would only fall the distance of the slack in that rope before impacting the bottom piece.

What I was illustrating was the potential for a disastrous scenario if you set up your anchor "wrong" - despite the fact that it still matches your setup.

That, plus I'm still dissatisfied with an anchor that provides no equalization if one piece pulls.

GO

Again, equalization has taken place up until one piece blows. All the pieces in the anchor has then absorbed as much force from the fall as it took the piece to blow. I can understand that you are unhappy with that.

By the way, what is your opinion on trusting your life on one single screwgate biner as you demonstrate in your favorite setups?

By the way, what is your opinion on trusting your life on one single screwgate biner as you demonstrate in your favorite setups?

So if one piece blows the equalization had no effect? The system still have to withstand FF2 force?

I think that we agree that a belay anchor should always be redundant, and that you think that the systems you show me is redundant? By this I can only conclude that your opinion is that a single screwgate biner is redundant as shown, correct?

You also say that you are fine with using only one screwgate biner depending on the situation. I assume that you use two screwgates in situations like top rope anchors, not clipping into the top rope with a screwgate but tie in with a fig 8 or not attaching your hawl bags wit just one biner? Situations where the screwgate is in constant motion requires two sg biners, am I correct?

I don't know where your FF2 comes from, but if one piece blows, the current force transmitted through the rope will transition to whatever next holds the rope, which in your anchor will be one piece. The act of the piece ripping does essentially nothing to lower the force on the system.

1) What kind of downward pull do you get into your belay anchor if the leader fall before she has placed any pro?
1a) Do you get downward pull in the anchor in any other scenario?

My suggested answers:
1) FALL FACTOR TWO
1a) NO

1a - belaying the second, hanging belay, hauling, etc.

I don't know where your FF2 comes from.

Sorry, not really sure of your point, though. If you're asking whether, if the anchor feels a factor 2 fall, and one piece rips - will the rest of the anchor still need to hold a factor 2 fall force, the answer is yes.

This I find difficult to understand, not saying you are wrong.
If one equalized piece blows at FF2 peak force then the individual pieces in the anchor has withstood 1/3 FF2 force? If what I am assuming is correct then the anchor will hold a FF2 fall if the weakest piece is a bit stronger than 1/3 of FF2 force?

Cracklover, yes it makes sense, but then again I dont understand the physics of it all. How do you know that the chain of events will be like this and how confident are you that what you describe do equal reality? Could you provide some sort of documentation?