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Ice Tool Recommendations???
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gargrantuan


Sep 21, 2006, 5:35 PM
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whatever you do, if you buy quarks, GET A DIFFERENT LEASH SYSTEM!! i think the clipper thing they designed is absolute and total garbage. if you are gonna do more alpine and WI then get a freelock system running, if you might do mixed or leashless WI climbing then get the android. i spent last season fiddling with my clipper leashes, never again, this year i just retrofitted the quarks with an android set up and it rules.


dps


Sep 21, 2006, 6:31 PM
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About just tools though... I think the Quark tends to swing FOR you, where as the Viper swings smoothly. That's how I think about the tools.
Either of those tools are easy and enjoyable to climb on. I just liked the swing the BD tools have more, so I got Vipers....but I was really close to getting Quarks if I didn't.


That's interesting. I have climbed on my Quarks for awhile now, and evey time I climb on a friend's Vipers I end up burying the picks at first because there is so much head weight. I always feel the BD tools swinging for me, where-as my Quarks feel like they are a bit more balanced in swing weight.

That's why it's so important to try out tools!

I've been using the clipper system for a couple years now and while I didn't like it at first, I vastly perfer it to the android setup now. Each has their own pros/cons, but I don't think that you should blindy dismiss the clipper system that Charlet has come up with.

I've also put the Grivel trigger on my quarks before (after lopping off the metal trigger part with a hacksaw) and just used the plastic piece as a bump. Very nice addition to you tools if you are going to be climbing leashless a lot.

Another nice thing to do is make you own tool retention system out of some bungee cord and a few mini-carabiners or other pieces. Lets you climb leashless with the piece of mind that your tool most likely won't go plummeting if it is knocked free or dropped.


nmt252


Sep 21, 2006, 7:08 PM
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all very good responses. Just an additional thought. Decide what type of climbing you will be doing the majority of the time. If you are heading out to do some "ice cragging" (as a guy @ Neptune mountaineering in Boulder, CO said)(i.e. 1-2 pitches of waterfall ice) then lean towards a techincal ice tool (Quark, Fly, Viper, etc...) If you think you'll be doing more alpine (i.e multipitch, mixed) then lean towards the venoms, rages, aztars, etc....

I hope that that was not a redundant post from previous..... Unfortunately (or Fortunately depending on your view) Ice tools, like mountain bikes or tents or boots or cams, have all become so job specific that there is no such thing as the "all around" ice tool. If I had the funds, I'd purchase a set of Nomics for my waterfall ice adventures, and a set of Aztars or Cobras for my alpine treks.


vdotmatrix


Sep 21, 2006, 8:20 PM
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I bought the Petzl ERGO this Summer, cheap, before i knew they were d/c, and had the same thoughts about climbing leash-less and loosing tools, but i know I want to go this route. They have been replaced by the Nomix and wonder how not having a hammer or an adze changes the scope of the type of climbing you'd be doing with this tool; obviously not so much alpine though they lend themselves to being leashed. :oops:


Partner brent_e


Sep 22, 2006, 1:12 AM
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if you're seriously worried about dropping tools, add something that you can put Grivels leash system on.

http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/...oducts/prod_29_1.jpg


do all your leashless crap with them, but never worry about dropping them.


Steve House and Marco Prezelj use this (North Twin ascent)


Brent


tradmanclimbs


Sep 22, 2006, 2:14 PM
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Back in the good old days we tethered our tools to our harneses or a shoulder loop with 6mm perlon.. talk about a Clusterfck :shock: I will never go back to that system. leashes are a good thing to have in a lot of situations and a pain in the butt in other situations. I swear by a clipper style system as it gives you options. I use the Androids. I leave them un clipped much of the time and then I clip them in when I need the added security or when I am getting Jazzed. how about those times when you get sprayed with water and it glazes your tools and gloves with ice? Freind of mine who is as hard as they come, FA of Pipe Dreams WI6XM5 170m unrepeted, just one of many accomplishments uses an Android on his Quarks for big long steep stuff but will switch out tools and go leashless on sporty mixed, Don't get caught up in what is cool. Find out what works for you. Especially don't worry about what steve house or Tomar or Bu Bu etc use because most likly you Ain't gonna be climbing like them no matter how much money you spend on gear 8^)


vdotmatrix


Sep 22, 2006, 2:25 PM
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I think we may be slightly off piste here, i was interjecting my inquiry about leashing ERGOS. The one gentleman suggested I drill a small hole in the base of my handles and run some 3mm chord in which to clip the Grivel Double Springs which sounds like the only viable solution if i want to keep these tools; which i probably have no business trying to use anyway, but I want to learn leashless. I wounder however, if Petzl sells replacement handles if I flub something up in the process.


tradmanclimbs


Sep 22, 2006, 2:41 PM
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If the ergos have a hole in the head you could easily attach an Android leash system. if there is no hole in the head then maby you could hoseclamp the android clip to the shaft without drilling? I would NOT drill the shaft personaly.


roy_hinkley_jr


Sep 22, 2006, 2:55 PM
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In reply to:
Back in the good old days we tethered our tools to our harneses or a shoulder loop with 6mm perlon.. talk about a Clusterfck :shock: I will never go back to that system.

Good enough for Steve House to climb Nanga Parbat last year. Watch the video: http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=10348

Leashless rules. None of the converted leashed tools are as effective as a purpose-designed leashed tool. Even the Trango isn't in the same league so don't use that as an example. Beginner's should start out with leashless instead of wasting money on out-dated tools.

BTW the Charlet leash has this cool feature where it disconnects automatically when you drop the tool...watching it plummet to the ground. Worst of both worlds, neither the freedom of leashless nor a solid attachment.


the_climber


Sep 22, 2006, 3:02 PM
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Leashes on Ergos I have seen more than a couple of times. It uses the same head as the quark. IF anyone decides to use leashes on this tool definitly use a clipper leash (Android IMO). Going completely free of you leashes is a HUGE commitment for MOST climbers. It is a viable alternative to still gain the advantages of a leashless tool, but if you want the best of both than something like the Viper w/ fang and strike, or the Grivel Taa-k-oon which comes with an adjustable trigger, the DMM Reble, or a regular Quark with the fang/horn/whatever petzl calls it.

For those hear looking for a comparison of the geometry/handle size/... of a few different leashless tool, this is a link to a site I stumbled on. It's not in english, German I think? But the pics speak for themselfs, and numbers aren't language specific, unless you don't speek metric :D
http://www.iceclimbing.at/...ult.asp?dir=/0032037



hehehe Just realized this was post 100 :) don't laugh Brent_e aka posting addict :roll: :robert:


vdotmatrix


Sep 22, 2006, 3:07 PM
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[quote="tradmanclimbs"]If the ergos have a hole in the head you could easily attach an Android leash system. if there is no hole in the head then maby you could hoseclamp the android clip to the shaft without drilling? I would NOT drill the shaft personaly.[/quote I was talkin about drilling through the very bottom of the plastic handle. I think using any other of the leashes that attach to the head would prevent someone from pretending they were climbing leashless because of uh, the leashes...http://www.northernlightstrading.com/.../U20!599-2370351.jpg


chacal


Sep 22, 2006, 3:41 PM
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-be wary of new school climbers that blindly follow what they see in the magazines-

Fer the record I been climbing ice since you wuz poopin'a diaper and rubbin'it on yer face...

The Quark plus Grivel trigger (and the little hookie thing that goes on the Qaurk spike) was employed by Sebastien Constant and Jerome Mercader on their first ascent of Pharilapcha (6017 meters) north face in the Khumbu region, Nepal. They don't use leashes, they are too busy sending. There is a Petzl video out that has a nice little film of this climb, I think you can contact them about buying the DVD. The Grivel Trigger BTW is for your index finger, that upper thing on the Viper is a rest for switching hands, they do not perform the same role.

I just use the Fusion as is, everyone else whose tools I have looked at seems to as well, the tool is just that good for competition and mixed use.

There is a good write-up of an ascent of "Beyond Good and Evil" on the Aiguille des Pelerins being done leashless with Ergo Quarks in the 2004 Petzl catalog, nobody looks to be dropping their tools. The Ergo Quark is still a good tool, the handle is one size fits all though so the Nomic was introduced to allow for adjustment and to redress the issue of pick shift when switching.

I went through about 6 Fusion picks in the last year or two, none of them broke althouigh with intense use they did wear out. I did bend one but it did not break and could be hammered back into shape if on a big route and need be.

I did do an alpine climb last year with leashless tools, the tools had a handle not a spike but it was no problem to stab these things into the snow to get over an overhanging cornice.

When Climbing Ice came out Yvonne Chouinard in this book was still exhorting people to learn to cut steps even though this practice was already obsolete, modern climbing (at that time) was already well into piolet traction solely.

You need to develop familiarity with going leashless, this involves tool management skills which are learned so you don't drop your tools.

So WTF are you waiting for?


tradmanclimbs


Sep 22, 2006, 3:51 PM
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Roy, have you ever climbed with your tools tyed to you with a tether?? name dropping dosen't mean crap in most instances. I have climbed with thay style of system and it sucked INMOP. I am quite certain that if you gave steve house my old 43cm hummingbird and 60cm Chiounard ice ax that he could still climb the pants off of most of the folks on this board. how those guys climb is not allways revelavent to how the avrege joe climbs. leashless is good and often great but there are a lot of situations where the average normal climber is going to perform better with a leash INMOP. That makes a clipper/android system fairly practicle. A better solution (one that i aspire to) but obviously out of the question financeualy for most climbers is to own a pair of nomics/reactors as well as a set of Quarks/Vipers.....


roy_hinkley_jr


Sep 22, 2006, 4:07 PM
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I've been climbing ice since the days of wood-shafted ice axes...long before the new-fangled Chacal was invented (had one, what a PITA to change picks!). Tried pretty much every system since then and most of the tools. Lotta crap came out over the years and there is still some left on the market. Thethers can be a viable option for leashless and aren't the hassle Trady makes them out to be. Nice thing is they're easy to remove when not needed.

BTW Chacal has never been on an expedition if he thinks cutting steps is obsolete. Still very much an important technique in some situations. And some new picks still need to be modified, in particular the Simonds, but they are great tools after a bit of filing.


tradmanclimbs


Sep 22, 2006, 4:11 PM
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Chacal, For the most part I don't use leashes to prevent dropping the tool. I use them to prevent dropping my 44year old A$$ when I run out of gas :wink: like I said before I do climb with the leashes unclipped much of the time. When I am half way up a grade 5 pillar at the Lake I need that leash to keep from totaly crapping my pants :shock: I also take full advantage of being unclipped when I place screws on the steep. Switching hands is awsome. There have been more than a few times when i hit a gusher in sub zero temps, got doused with water and was then forzen solid within seconds. that is just one of the situations where androids help give you a bit of confidence. bet you don't run into that too much at comps 8^)


tradmanclimbs


Sep 22, 2006, 4:25 PM
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I got all tangled up and frustrated when I used teathers on both tools. I used a teather on just one tool for many years on the theory that if your feet blew and your wool mittens greased off the straight shafts that the teather would save you. Getting rid of that thing was allmost as liberateing for me as the android leashes are... I do want a pair of reactors but will i be able to crank long hard pillars at the lake in cold temps totaly leashless??? I know guys way way harder than myself who still use leashes for the big stuff.......


rhyang


Sep 22, 2006, 4:39 PM
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I know unclipping the Quark / Clipper leash happens to some people, but it always seemed pretty secure to me. What worries me about the Android is unclipping it while mantling or something. Last season I started doing more leashless climbing anyway.


tradmanclimbs


Sep 22, 2006, 4:52 PM
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I allways unclip the adroid to mantle, I have the upper part of my shaft hockey taped for a second grip position as well. To really utilize the system you have to be comfortable climbing unclipped.


dps


Sep 22, 2006, 9:22 PM
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In reply to:
BTW the Charlet leash has this cool feature where it disconnects automatically when you drop the tool...watching it plummet to the ground. Worst of both worlds, neither the freedom of leashless nor a solid attachment.

??

I've never, ever seen or heard this happening. I've been using my clipper leashes for a few years (as said earlier) and dropped my tool so it was just hanging from my wrist by the leash plently of times in the mountains.

I also have never had any customers complain to me about this fact.

Where/when/how did you see this happen?

I have on the other hand, accidently unclipped the androids while choking up on the tool. A lot.


jimdavis


Sep 23, 2006, 4:51 AM
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-be wary of new school climbers that blindly follow what they see in the magazines-

Fer the record I been climbing ice since you wuz poopin'a diaper and rubbin'it on yer face...

The Quark plus Grivel trigger (and the little hookie thing that goes on the Qaurk spike) was employed by Sebastien Constant and Jerome Mercader on their first ascent of Pharilapcha (6017 meters) north face in the Khumbu region, Nepal. They don't use leashes, they are too busy sending. There is a Petzl video out that has a nice little film of this climb, I think you can contact them about buying the DVD. The Grivel Trigger BTW is for your index finger, that upper thing on the Viper is a rest for switching hands, they do not perform the same role.

I just use the Fusion as is, everyone else whose tools I have looked at seems to as well, the tool is just that good for competition and mixed use.

There is a good write-up of an ascent of "Beyond Good and Evil" on the Aiguille des Pelerins being done leashless with Ergo Quarks in the 2004 Petzl catalog, nobody looks to be dropping their tools. The Ergo Quark is still a good tool, the handle is one size fits all though so the Nomic was introduced to allow for adjustment and to redress the issue of pick shift when switching.

I went through about 6 Fusion picks in the last year or two, none of them broke althouigh with intense use they did wear out. I did bend one but it did not break and could be hammered back into shape if on a big route and need be.

I did do an alpine climb last year with leashless tools, the tools had a handle not a spike but it was no problem to stab these things into the snow to get over an overhanging cornice.

When Climbing Ice came out Yvonne Chouinard in this book was still exhorting people to learn to cut steps even though this practice was already obsolete, modern climbing (at that time) was already well into piolet traction solely.

You need to develop familiarity with going leashless, this involves tool management skills which are learned so you don't drop your tools.

So WTF are you waiting for?

I find it hard to belive that you've been climbing ice for so long, and you completly disregard the use of leashes, like you do. That means your either lieing about how much climbing you've done...or your just foolish to look back on all those times when you were climbing and say that it was all a waste to have climbed on leashes.

Like other have said, leashes have their place, especially for us mortal climbers. That being said, I also know a few sponcered climbers that do all their big routes leashed, then climb leashless to dick around cragging on mixed routes.

So, considering that....I have no hesitations at all, to recommend leashed tools. This is also the experience that I have found, numerous beginner ice climbers have found (who I've taught, and let them climb on each types of tools), and other instructors I work with have found.

Yes, people should try leashless, and see if it's for them....but of most of the consignment shopes I've visited, I see more leashless tools for sale than good swinging leashed tools. You know what that tells me? That too many beginners are buying into the hype leashless is getting, then finding out it's not for every body.

You absolutly need to climb on a pair of leashless tools for a few pitches before you buy into the hype.

I onsighed M6+ in my second season of ice climbing...on borrowed (slide lock) leashed Quarks. Leashed tools don't hold me back much, and now having Vipers with androids...I can go leashless when I need to. This IS the best system for me, and I know a lot of people that feel the same.

Try that shit out before you buy the hype dude....you won't regret it. Then go with what your gut tells you.

Cheers,
Jim


timstich


Sep 23, 2006, 11:21 AM
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Nice reading some opinions based on experience with some actual positions being taken. It's more helpful than just seeing everyone agree.


chacal


Sep 23, 2006, 3:18 PM
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-That means your either lieing [sic] about how much climbing you've done...-

Look junior, if you're going to question someone's credibility in a public forum at least learn to spell.

-it was all a waste to have climbed on leashes-

I never said any such thing, these are your words so keep them in your own mouth and don't be foisting them off on me. One year alone I racked up well over 5000 meters of climbing on leashes, alpine routes, waterfalls, much of this solo so I was glad to have the leash. In 1988-89 where were you? 3rd grade?

Things change though. When I saw a photo of Steve House on North Twin North Face in April I thought, Hell's Bells, he's got no leashes! That was it from me. Now I see Maxime Turgeon skis in and solos Pomme d' Or without the leash, then he skis back out. 300 meters of grade 5/6 ice and he has the presence of mind to hold onto his tools through the entire adventure.

-climb leashless to dick around cragging on mixed routes- (!?!)

You seem contemptuous of mixed routes, at least of the bolted sport variety (probably because you suck at it). That is your prerogative but spare us the half-assed sermon on a topic you are so woefully unfamiliar with.

-I don't use leashes to prevent dropping the tool. I use them to prevent dropping my 44year old A$$ when I run out of gas like I said before I do climb with the leashes unclipped much of the time. When I am half way up a grade 5 pillar at the Lake I need that leash to keep from totaly crapping my pants-

Okay, I am down with that. At least this guy is being honest and doesn't constantly reference fictitious, unspecified hardmen to buttress his own choices in equipment and technique. If you wish to use the leash then fine, this is a legitimate solution to providing security on ice and mixed routes. Indeed Robert Jasper commented after his winter 2003 ascent of "No Siesta"on the Grande Jorrasses North Face that he could not see using leashless tools on such a route. On the other hand Andy parkin recently wrote that on an Easter ascent of the Croz Spur his hard-core leash-using partner went leashless for that climb and never looked back.

Synopsis: Leashless climbing has expanded well beyond the mixed crag into the mountains, many of the best and most influential climbers appear to be doing anything and everything leashless.

So...

-Leashless...

Yes, you might start on ice but then you'll want to try mixed which will mean leashless.

Start out leashless and you'll end up where you should be.-



roy_hinkley_jr


Sep 23, 2006, 4:07 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
BTW the Charlet leash has this cool feature where it disconnects automatically when you drop the tool...watching it plummet to the ground. Worst of both worlds, neither the freedom of leashless nor a solid attachment.

??

I've never, ever seen or heard this happening. I've been using my clipper leashes for a few years (as said earlier) and dropped my tool so it was just hanging from my wrist by the leash plently of times in the mountains.

I also have never had any customers complain to me about this fact.

It's an easily reproducible design defect. First saw a climber's tools go flying at Vail. Since then, I've shown it to numerous other people with their own tools. AFAIK Petzl has not corrected the problem. Hard to explain, easy to show. It happens when the tool is dropped with the lever going straight out.

The people teaching beginner's with leashed tools also probably insist on dual points :roll: Make life easy...go leashless and mono. Save the old-fangled gear for when you want to try retro.


climbxclimb


Sep 23, 2006, 5:03 PM
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The Petzl Quark are the best tools ever for vertical ice climbing, I am talking here about trad climbing meaning placing protection, multipitch and so forth..
A different matter is if you are thinking about bolted competition routes...
That said there are many good tools around, and you should try different one before committing to a specific one, because the style of climbing changes with people.
For example the Black Diamond are heavier tools compared to the Petzl, therefore they go deeper in the ice, and that is nice if you are a beginner with your swing, but also it becomes more difficult to remove them from the placement. But some people would prefer that...
The new Camp tools especially the AWAX are great I tried them last year and I liked them a lot.
Bottom line try them all and see what feels better...for me...QUARK!!!!!!!!!


gargrantuan


Sep 23, 2006, 5:13 PM
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if i had the money i'd buy nomics in a heart beat.

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Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice

 


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