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CaptainPolution
Mar 24, 2008, 8:50 AM
Post #26 of 44
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
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your mama is talking out her ass!
you are right though. im a total n00b and I have no idea even how to set up a top rope! I wish all of the keyboard climbers would answer my every question!
oh keyboard gods, please grace me with your presence!
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CaptainPolution
Mar 24, 2008, 8:55 AM
Post #27 of 44
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evanwish wrote: salamanizer wrote: evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking but how does that push you to do better and climb harder?? or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it? how doesnt it? I suck at chimney and o.w. but I sure as hell dont plan on falling out of it. practice makes you better. start leading real rocks dog! the biggest piece of gear i have is the #5 BD so i've only been leading offwidths of the stacked hands and knee lock size.. Everything wider than that i've had to top rope.. i got my knee stuck in the rock once while leading an OW. I jamed in my calf so i could move the hand stack and also get a nice no hand rest but somehow i couldnt' get my knee back out... it took at least 10 minutes to get free... :/ I could name 10 OW's off the top of my head that don't require gear bigger than a #4, and could probably name at least 50 given time to think about it that are in your local neck of the woods. I don't think the gear is your issue here. hey salamanizer it's Evan from granite arch (the dude who climbs with Matt sometimes) yeah i've just been doing all the one's at cosumnes, but i really need to get out and find some more around here or tahoe... Angry: Yeah that's great advice i'll definately take to heart... and i guess you're right, can't fall out if all the way in. (and it's not falling from hand stacks that i was worried about) thanks :)
cosumness is rotting your mind man. dont be using my name around here either, Im afraid some people on this board will try and stalk me.
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joeforte
Mar 24, 2008, 2:56 PM
Post #28 of 44
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evanwish wrote: but how does that push you to do better and climb harder??
Not falling=climbing harder
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sspssp
Mar 24, 2008, 5:50 PM
Post #29 of 44
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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dobson wrote: Not quite true; I've been limping around due to a lack of skin on my ankles, and I didn't fall. OWs hurt, period.
Ah, another newbie that forgot to tape his ankles.
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Rockjunkie15
Mar 25, 2008, 4:08 AM
Post #30 of 44
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Registered: Jul 16, 2007
Posts: 24
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Captain polution is a worthless computer climber that comes into the gym and gets shut down of easy 9's, don't take his advise or u won't ever progress to the higher standards of forum keyboard climbers. Stitch everything up like it's your mommas gaping giblets.
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evanwish
Mar 25, 2008, 7:16 PM
Post #31 of 44
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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Yesterday i did "Self Abuse" at Sugarloaf and it was a really great route, i would have felt a little more protected if i had another #5 or a #6...
that climb hurt so good, i now have scars on my ankles, knees and elbows.. (i think i'm progressing!)
we also tried some chimney but 50 feet up ended up with a ~fifteen foot 12" crack. We ended up downclimbing because we didn't feel safe enough..
i think i might bring myself to buy some big-bro's.... 
(This post was edited by evanwish on Mar 25, 2008, 10:49 PM)
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CaptainPolution
Mar 25, 2008, 10:41 PM
Post #32 of 44
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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n00b. you need to cover your whole body in tape so you don't get any boo boos :(:(:(:( wahwahwahwahwahwah
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CaptainPolution
Mar 25, 2008, 11:18 PM
Post #34 of 44
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Posts: 330
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yeah im into them already. But I know to tape my ankles haahaha. long pants and socks seem to work though
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petsfed
Mar 25, 2008, 11:55 PM
Post #35 of 44
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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CaptainPolution wrote: yeah im into them already. But I know to tape my ankles haahaha. long pants and socks seem to work though
Couldn't you just get high tops?
That's what everybody out here does.
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evanwish
Mar 26, 2008, 4:12 AM
Post #36 of 44
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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petsfed wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: yeah im into them already. But I know to tape my ankles haahaha. long pants and socks seem to work though Couldn't you just get high tops? That's what everybody out here does.
where do you get those??
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CaptainPolution
Mar 26, 2008, 5:34 AM
Post #37 of 44
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evanwish wrote: petsfed wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: yeah im into them already. But I know to tape my ankles haahaha. long pants and socks seem to work though Couldn't you just get high tops? That's what everybody out here does. where do you get those??
the mountain shop in the valley has some. and east side sports or wilsons or whatever in bishop has some.
and to the other dude. I dont pay retail for shoes and I cant get any high tops.if i find some ill get em.
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petsfed
Mar 26, 2008, 4:31 PM
Post #38 of 44
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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Acopa JBs if you want them new.
Sierra trading post still has LS megas for CHEAP if you've got the right size foot.
Or ask angry about his shoes.
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CaptainPolution
Mar 27, 2008, 10:15 PM
Post #40 of 44
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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petsfed wrote: Acopa JBs if you want them new. Sierra trading post still has LS megas for CHEAP if you've got the right size foot. Or ask angry about his shoes.
I see a point in asking since he probably has 100 year old shoes. oldie mc oldman
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angry
Mar 27, 2008, 10:23 PM
Post #41 of 44
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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CaptainPolution wrote: petsfed wrote: Acopa JBs if you want them new. Sierra trading post still has LS megas for CHEAP if you've got the right size foot. Or ask angry about his shoes. I see a point in asking since he probably has 100 year old shoes. oldie mc oldman
I think I found a grey hair this morning. That'd be cool if it was from a cougar who is nightly ravaging me, but that's not the case.
My balls are wrinkled.
You can see my scalp through my thinning hair.
I have a pair of Lowa Hummingbirds, La Sportiva Mariachurs, Scarpa Generator, La Sportiva Mega, and a high top so new that even Captain Planet hasn't seen it.
Heart!!!
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brutusofwyde
Mar 31, 2008, 7:58 AM
Post #42 of 44
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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evanwish wrote: I've been curious about falling out of or down an offwidth/squeeze chim and what's the best way to prevent injury...
Two ways to prevent injury: Get a bigger rack. Climb with someone who has a bigger rack.
And, yes, high-tops (duh!). I use Megas resoled with Stealth C4.
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chossmonkey
Mar 31, 2008, 11:24 AM
Post #43 of 44
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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CaptainPolution wrote: oh keyboard gods, please grace me with your presence!
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matttt
Apr 1, 2008, 5:01 PM
Post #44 of 44
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Registered: Jul 14, 2006
Posts: 84
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boo!!! sierratradingpost only has the megas in small sizes...but what a deal!
matt.
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