I would have think about where the forces are when you are inverted and how the soloist would react when atached to the chest harness with a very top heavy load, doesn't the rope still come out of the bottom of the the device so the pivot point would still be lower than the chest harness, so I think it could be posible at least if you had a large pack on but don't know if an aid rack would be enough.
I still think morse should test his method before trusting it, maybe it will still catch a fall but then you would be inverted so if you got knocked out you would be hanging upside down...
Like I said I won't coment on facts because I have neither owned or tried it.
With out it attached to your chest harness, it acts much like a Yates Rocker, only not as reliable. You need to be falling fast and it takes a bit of rope to go through it before it will catch, if it does (rope size really matters). It is also a pain to hand feed it and keep slack in it so you can advance even if just aiding, it keeps wanting to slide back down.
When aiding there is rarely enough slack from the last piece for me to start getting upside down with speed before the attachment to the chest harness comes into play and keeps me upright. While free climbing there can be enough slack between pieces to allow you to get upside down with enough speed to keep it from catching. I try to sew things up as much as possible when roped soloing with it. Be aware of your situation and use it as directed would be my advice.
After doing a "rest day" in Jtree around Xmas at ~40F i found that my SP would not lock doing the thumb spin, or ripping a armful of rope through. At room temp mine was fine.
It sounds like you didn't have it cloved properly. I've done this once before. I was unable to detect (by eye) how the clove was wrong, but the device was not locking. I reset the clove, and things worked perfectly.
You may choose to deny even the remote possibility that it wasn't cloved right, but it is far more likely that there was an error in the clove, than a flaw in your new device.
After doing a "rest day" in Jtree around Xmas at ~40F i found that my SP would not lock doing the thumb spin, or ripping a armful of rope through. At room temp mine was fine.
It sounds like you didn't have it cloved properly. I've done this once before. I was unable to detect (by eye) how the clove was wrong, but the device was not locking. I reset the clove, and things worked perfectly.
You may choose to deny even the remote possibility that it wasn't cloved right, but it is far more likely that there was an error in the clove, than a flaw in your new device.
Nope, it was the device. Per the manual, I did the thumb spin. It did not lock. I put a clove on it, correctly, to be able to give it a harder yank. No dice. After a dozen or so yanks it started sporadically locking, then soon acted normal.
Upon getting home I was able to reproduce the behavior by stuffing it in the freezer. Thumb spin test failed, and for several very fast yanks it would not lock.
I have never met anyone who has used a Soloist without a chest harness. When I'm on a mixed free and aid climb, I will disengage the Soloist from the chest harness (but keeping the locking carabiner in place on the Soloist) at times when I come to aid climbing sections and I am concerned about the possibility of a head-first fall, which the Soloist is not supposed to catch when attached to a chest harness.
Morse,
You are an idiot. The above quote, especially the part I put in bold, is a perfect example. Wren tells you to use a chest harness so you won't have an upside down fall. You state that it won't matter until you hit the last piece of gear....well maybe except with a chest harness you will be turned upward and allow the soloist to engage...which is not the case without a chest harness. Do you think, maybe, there is a reason Wren says NOT to use it W/O a chest harness?
If you hold the cam closed on a grigri it won't catch...great point there as well.
You need to stop posting this crap before someone isn't smart enough to figure it out on their own...and ends up hurt or worse. Kill yourself if you want, but don't spread the stupidity.
josh
I read the first two lines then stopped. People that can't talk like adults rarely have anything useful to say.
Aug 18, 2008, 12:18 PM
Post #33 of 41
(4196 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Your perfered deivce for solo aid?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
flamer wrote:
morse8000 wrote:
I have never met anyone who has used a Soloist without a chest harness. When I'm on a mixed free and aid climb, I will disengage the Soloist from the chest harness (but keeping the locking carabiner in place on the Soloist) at times when I come to aid climbing sections and I am concerned about the possibility of a head-first fall, which the Soloist is not supposed to catch when attached to a chest harness.
Morse,
You are an idiot. The above quote, especially the part I put in bold, is a perfect example. Wren tells you to use a chest harness so you won't have an upside down fall. You state that it won't matter until you hit the last piece of gear....well maybe except with a chest harness you will be turned upward and allow the soloist to engage...which is not the case without a chest harness. Do you think, maybe, there is a reason Wren says NOT to use it W/O a chest harness?
If you hold the cam closed on a grigri it won't catch...great point there as well.
You need to stop posting this crap before someone isn't smart enough to figure it out on their own...and ends up hurt or worse. Kill yourself if you want, but don't spread the stupidity.
josh
I read the first two lines then stopped. People that can't talk like adults rarely have anything useful to say.
Really? Because his comment was in a thread concerning something he has very limited knowledge of. Not to mention it had nothing to do with the topic....of course both are typical of his response's. So it was helpful how?
Really? Because his comment was in a thread concerning something he has very limited knowledge of. Not to mention it had nothing to do with the topic....of course both are typical of his response's. So it was helpful how?
josh
Where would we all be without flamer looking out for our well being and safety. I thank you, for your endless plight to rid the world of misconceptions.
Which routes have you practiced your trade on? As the resident expert in this thread, I am curious. Was it Zenyatta Mondatta? Zenith? Solo ascent of Tempest?
Point of the matter is with you, just like Morse, anyone that takes belay advice from someone with an unknown skill level or history reaps their own rewards.
Just find any number of posts by PTPP or check bigwalls forum. RC.COM is a good place to flame and do some internet athletics, but any good answer or discussion will be killed by the person who gets brave hiding behind a computer screen.
Flamer, a cruddy attitude comes with Kharma. Enjoy.
(This post was edited by quiteatingmysteak on Aug 18, 2008, 3:55 PM)
Aug 18, 2008, 4:02 PM
Post #37 of 41
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Your perfered deivce for solo aid?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
flamer wrote:
Really? Because his comment was in a thread concerning something he has very limited knowledge of. Not to mention it had nothing to do with the topic....of course both are typical of his response's. So it was helpful how?
josh
Where would we all be without flamer looking out for our well being and safety. I thank you, for your endless plight to rid the world of misconceptions.
Which routes have you practiced your trade on? As the resident expert in this thread, I am curious. Was it Zenyatta Mondatta? Zenith? Solo ascent of Tempest?
Point of the matter is with you, just like Morse, anyone that takes belay advice from someone with an unknown skill level or history reaps their own rewards.
Just find any number of posts by PTPP or check bigwalls forum. RC.COM is a good place to flame and do some internet athletics, but any good answer or discussion will be killed by the person who gets brave hiding behind a computer screen.
Flamer, a cruddy attitude comes with Kharma. Enjoy.
Seriously dude? Are you that dense? Read the thread....there is a guy telling people to do something AGAINST the SPECIFIC instructions of the manufacturer. And it's something that if done will likely result in the MALFUNCTION OF A SOLOING device. Which could lead to someone getting seriously hurt. I take that serious. Serious enough to use very strong words so that folks pay attention. Stop your whining. And now we have you...the guy who can MAYBE redpoint 5.10...telling me the guy who onsight rope solo's 5.10+/5.11 long routes that I'm the problem? You work in a gear shop huh? Think you really know what you're talking about huh?
Have you climbed a wall? Aid? Rope soloed ANYTHING? My kharma is so payed off you don't even know. You are just another intertard hack, hiding behind a computer.
josh
(This post was edited by flamer on Aug 18, 2008, 4:04 PM)
Really? Because his comment was in a thread concerning something he has very limited knowledge of. Not to mention it had nothing to do with the topic....of course both are typical of his response's. So it was helpful how?
josh
Where would we all be without flamer looking out for our well being and safety. I thank you, for your endless plight to rid the world of misconceptions.
Which routes have you practiced your trade on? As the resident expert in this thread, I am curious. Was it Zenyatta Mondatta? Zenith? Solo ascent of Tempest?
Point of the matter is with you, just like Morse, anyone that takes belay advice from someone with an unknown skill level or history reaps their own rewards.
Just find any number of posts by PTPP or check bigwalls forum. RC.COM is a good place to flame and do some internet athletics, but any good answer or discussion will be killed by the person who gets brave hiding behind a computer screen.
Flamer, a cruddy attitude comes with Kharma. Enjoy.
Seriously dude? Are you that dense? Read the thread....there is a guy telling people to do something AGAINST the SPECIFIC instructions of the manufacturer. And it's something that if done will likely result in the MALFUNCTION OF A SOLOING device. Which could lead to someone getting seriously hurt. I take that serious. Serious enough to use very strong words so that folks pay attention. Stop your whining. And now we have you...the guy who can MAYBE redpoint 5.10...telling me the guy who onsight rope solo's 5.10+/5.11 long routes that I'm the problem? You work in a gear shop huh? Think you really know what you're talking about huh?
Have you climbed a wall? Aid? Rope soloed ANYTHING? My kharma is so payed off you don't even know. You are just another intertard hack, hiding behind a computer.
josh
I don't care what he said. You would just rather bash people online (as noted above).
I don't climb too hard. However, I haven't fallen on lead in over a year. I'm not about to hangdog up routes (as most of the 5.11's in your list say - anyone can hang a 5.11 duder). You've done about six walls, which is pretty cool. Your hardest wall is C2+ - hey thats my hardest wall too! (my first). I did it with a sweater and a biv sack and it was a blast. After six walls, though, you might want to consider trying one thats hard.
I'm not giving advice to anyone, thats all you. I never claimed to tell someone how to rig a solo aid. Anyone that purchases a product and doesn't read the manufacturers warning will probably die by forgetting to breathe later in life.
Spray all you want, but hanging on 11's and climbing every easy route in the valley is hardly going to make me wet.
Aug 18, 2008, 4:25 PM
Post #40 of 41
(4147 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Your perfered deivce for solo aid?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
flamer wrote:
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
flamer wrote:
Really? Because his comment was in a thread concerning something he has very limited knowledge of. Not to mention it had nothing to do with the topic....of course both are typical of his response's. So it was helpful how?
josh
Where would we all be without flamer looking out for our well being and safety. I thank you, for your endless plight to rid the world of misconceptions.
Which routes have you practiced your trade on? As the resident expert in this thread, I am curious. Was it Zenyatta Mondatta? Zenith? Solo ascent of Tempest?
Point of the matter is with you, just like Morse, anyone that takes belay advice from someone with an unknown skill level or history reaps their own rewards.
Just find any number of posts by PTPP or check bigwalls forum. RC.COM is a good place to flame and do some internet athletics, but any good answer or discussion will be killed by the person who gets brave hiding behind a computer screen.
Flamer, a cruddy attitude comes with Kharma. Enjoy.
Seriously dude? Are you that dense? Read the thread....there is a guy telling people to do something AGAINST the SPECIFIC instructions of the manufacturer. And it's something that if done will likely result in the MALFUNCTION OF A SOLOING device. Which could lead to someone getting seriously hurt. I take that serious. Serious enough to use very strong words so that folks pay attention. Stop your whining. And now we have you...the guy who can MAYBE redpoint 5.10...telling me the guy who onsight rope solo's 5.10+/5.11 long routes that I'm the problem? You work in a gear shop huh? Think you really know what you're talking about huh?
Have you climbed a wall? Aid? Rope soloed ANYTHING? My kharma is so payed off you don't even know. You are just another intertard hack, hiding behind a computer.
josh
I don't care what he said. You would just rather bash people online (as noted above).
I don't climb too hard. However, I haven't fallen on lead in over a year. I'm not about to hangdog up routes (as most of the 5.11's in your list say - anyone can hang a 5.11 duder). You've done about six walls, which is pretty cool. Your hardest wall is C2+ - hey thats my hardest wall too! (my first). I did it with a sweater and a biv sack and it was a blast. After six walls, though, you might want to consider trying one thats hard.
I'm not giving advice to anyone, thats all you. I never claimed to tell someone how to rig a solo aid. Anyone that purchases a product and doesn't read the manufacturers warning will probably die by forgetting to breathe later in life.
Spray all you want, but hanging on 11's and climbing every easy route in the valley is hardly going to make me wet.
Haha.....dude you can't even read! You're the one who asked for spray...anyone can look at my profile page and see that what you just said about my climbing is stone wrong. It's all there.
If you look closely you'll see that other than saying he didn't know what he was talking about...which was warranted due to him giving EXTREMELY unsafe advice, I didn't "Bash" him until HE jumped me.
If you're not the one giving advice then why did you even post? Big help you were huh? Tough guy. Thought maybe you should jump into something you don't know about because you didn't like my tone? Quit whining and go climb some more 5.7.
"I haven't fallen on lead in over a year".....HaHaHaHaHa!!!!! Wow that's going to make my whole day......I'm off to solo9 without any device!) the routes you're not falling on.
18 /
60%
