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climbbaja
Sep 19, 2008, 11:34 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 177
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sgreer,
de nada. have fun with your project.
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norushnomore
Sep 20, 2008, 9:07 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
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sbaclimber wrote: sgreer wrote: I do have a box of 50 redheads that are 3/8" x 3" long that I am going to lug along as well. I agree with climbbaja, use these ^^^ instead! I have replaced a few drop-ins, and they are practically impossible to patch nicely (removal is a real PITA, if possible at all...), because they are rarely placed countersunk (shouldn't be either). About the only option is to grind them down with a grinder first, but that tends to make even more of a mess 
Yep, do what they say ^^^^
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anthonymason
Sep 21, 2008, 7:18 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 116
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Climbaja is right, however I use a epoxy instead of welding the bolt, JB weld etc on the threads will keep most people from taking the hangers.
Plus if some one needs to replace the gear it is easier to remove the epoxy from the threads and loosen the bolt.
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sgreer
Sep 22, 2008, 3:51 PM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Jun 9, 2008
Posts: 112
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Well, the drop in's were a pain in the ass to intsall. I put one in just to check it out and boy howdy it was not as easy or as fast as the red heads.
I'm sold. Thanks again.
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billcoe_
Sep 22, 2008, 7:06 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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Good advice up there. Hopefully your wedge anchors are stainless?
I know the classic bolt ladder at Monkey Face (Pioneer route) was replaced from 1/4 split shanks to 3/8" or perhaps 1/2" id drop ins, which gradually have worn and gotten loose and been replaced with smaller (3/8 diameter) wedge anchors. I don't know why they loosened up, but they did. Maybe the performance in Granite would be better. In either case, you need to hit the depth on the money, slower to place.
Sounds like you're onto the scent of a great project: congrats!
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sgreer
Sep 22, 2008, 7:32 PM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Jun 9, 2008
Posts: 112
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SS is the only way to go. I'll send pics of the route when it's finished next month. I spent all day Sunday in aiders and installed 15 bolts. I only made it up 80' or so. At least 5-6 more pitches to go. Mosty free after the first and second. The first bolt is about 13' off a ledge so there are some mandatory free moves to start the ladder. Not to mention getting onto the ledge requres some 4th to 5.0 class scrambling on polished granite. It's a project alright!
(This post was edited by sgreer on Sep 22, 2008, 7:39 PM)
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