|
rtwilli4
Jun 17, 2009, 5:09 AM
Post #26 of 27
(487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
quiteatingmysteak wrote: a guy i used to climb with just came back from afghanistan, was about your size before he left and was in a spec forces unit. now he's about 3 pounds heavier. Sum guys can't gain weight... case in point this guy [image]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f205/twototrango/DSCN0357-1.jpg[/image] 5.11 crimping sport routes off the couch, plays on Caveman Traverse like a monkey. My brother bitches he is too small... whatta punk.
Yea I guess I shouldn't complain. The fact that I have to eat every 3 or 4 hours is annoying sometimes but being skinny is really the only reason I'm any good at climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
villageidiot
Jun 17, 2009, 5:16 AM
Post #27 of 27
(487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 104
|
After a couple months in the gym over the winter sustained pumpy routes aren't so bad and climbing at rifle feels pretty good.
But then its starts getting nice in the desert and while no moves feels hard the back of my forearms explode after about 40ft. I suppose if I stayed out there long enough this would pass.
Fortunately, now its starting to get nice on the front range, but granite cracks don't seem to climb as simple as sandstone splittlers, so it takes a couple weeks for that to come back.
By now the days are getting longer and climbing at Flagstaff a couple nights is the best use of time. However, now I can barely pull on the crimps of routes I was running laps on. Then there is that whole turning and flagging thing I forgot about.
By the time it gets to hot to climb most places on the front range I have a bunch of circuits down at Flagstaff, but route climbing just leads to a pump and hanging all over the route. Once things start to cool down the whole pattern reverses itself until I find find myself completely confused by dynos and such, and generally pumping out in the gym.
I think with a conscious effort most of the fitness related issues could be minimzed. However, I have often wondered what is the better approach to developing technique: trying to dial in a specific rock style (eg. splilter sandstone, overhanging limestone, or near-vertical granite), or switching things up alot. I have climbed v5, 12b on sport, 11d on gear, and 12- in the desert, which seems pretty even given the relative amount of time I devote to each.
For myself its currently a moot question as my priorities are general health, then technique, and fitness issues last. Climbing routes when you are anemic isn't always fun, and nothing is easy when you want to puke most of the day.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
