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yodadave
Mar 10, 2010, 5:11 PM
Post #26 of 57
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granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Don't go for those stupid thin dogbones. The thicker ones are easier to grab. This is not advocating to grab your draws all the time, but is a very useful tool when you start working really hard routes for you. Those who argue that you should never grab a draw don't work routes that are hard for them.that or they are just willing to take the fall This coming from the 5.9 sport climber? Yeah, you obviously have a good handle on these things. take it easy princess, Does it look like i update that log frequently? Also that log does not list what i fall off. I'll have you know i've fallen off some serious 5.13s  In all seriousness i wasn't trying to flame you i was just saying some people prefer to take the fall over grabbing a draw. When in the past i've grabbed draws its been scarier than a clean fall. Hope you have fun falling off your 5.13s, I think I'll actually work things out and send some hard routes instead. Maybe someday you'll understand what "working a route" really means. all this from someone who if i judge her by her logbook, as she has judged me, has her proudest ascent as hangdogging an 11. Well yes clearly you are a vastly superior climber to me in every respect. So ignore my points about grabbing dogbones and have fun "working a route" (aka french freeing and hangdogging the crap out of moderates. And in case you have the capacity to look past the flame throwing i will repeat In all seriousness i wasn't trying to flame you i was just saying some people prefer to take the fall over grabbing a draw. When in the past i've grabbed draws its been scarier than a clean fall.Yup, three seasons ago I could top rope 5.11b clean. You sure showed me! I probably haven't improved at all since 2006. For the love of pete, update your log. Last update was fall 2008, less than a year and a half ago. You've only had one season to improve since then! What else am I supposed to think? It was an honest mistake, so please get your panties out of that bunch. Understand that there's a lot more to working a route than falling over and over again till you finally hit the sequence right. You keep talking about grabbing draws when you're scared, THIS IS NOT WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. I'm talking about efficiently working out moves on a route you want to redpoint. I don't care if I'm a better climber than you or not. I just know how to work routes, and you are obviously very inefficient at it.
ok i throw in the towel, your stubborn refusal to do much other than throw abuse is astoundingly impressive and quite frankly i just can't compete. I guess i will remain in the blissful dark as to how grabbing draws is actually a highly efficient way to work a route.
on a sidenote i thoroughly agree with keylock solid gates for the bolt side, especially for steep stuff like the RRG, I love heliums for the rope side and my panties are unbunched as i'm naked in bed puking my guts out readjusting to N. American "food" 
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dolphja
Mar 10, 2010, 6:50 PM
Post #27 of 57
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Registered: May 18, 2001
Posts: 298
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AHNYOO! back on topic. i think its mostly to do with personal preference. personally, i use solid gates on sport, they just feel safer to me, and wires on trad to save on weight.
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bennydh
Mar 10, 2010, 8:04 PM
Post #28 of 57
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Trango wire on the rope side, Trango solid on the bolt side. Extendable slings.
If Yoda and GRL could please have a staring contest instead of battling it out here, you will save us all a bunch of reading. And by reading I mean scrolling to portions of this thread where something might actually be useful or interesting.
Thanks
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shockabuku
Mar 10, 2010, 8:46 PM
Post #29 of 57
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cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO
WTF izzat?
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cracklover
Mar 10, 2010, 9:49 PM
Post #30 of 57
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shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO WTF izzat?
D'oh! Brain fart! Of course I meant DMM Heliums! Sorry if I confused anyone!
GO
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yodadave
Mar 10, 2010, 9:51 PM
Post #31 of 57
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cracklover wrote: shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO WTF izzat? D'oh! Brain fart! Of course I meant DMM Heliums! Sorry if I confused anyone! hilarious  GO |
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jt512
Mar 11, 2010, 12:43 AM
Post #32 of 57
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cracklover wrote: shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO WTF izzat? D'oh! Brain fart! Of course I meant DMM Heliums! Sorry if I confused anyone! GO
Strike two!
Jay
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gosharks
Mar 11, 2010, 1:20 AM
Post #33 of 57
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
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yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Don't go for those stupid thin dogbones. The thicker ones are easier to grab. This is not advocating to grab your draws all the time, but is a very useful tool when you start working really hard routes for you. Those who argue that you should never grab a draw don't work routes that are hard for them.that or they are just willing to take the fall
Grabbing a draw isn't limited to preventing a fall.
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ClimbTheCrag
Mar 11, 2010, 4:44 AM
Post #34 of 57
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Petzl spirits are the "stuff"! good shape, Strong, and pretty light
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shockabuku
Mar 11, 2010, 5:03 AM
Post #35 of 57
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jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO WTF izzat? D'oh! Brain fart! Of course I meant DMM Heliums! Sorry if I confused anyone! GO Strike two! Jay
Going out on a limb here but, the bottom biner on Heliums draws is red. Isn't that strike three?
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mach2
Mar 11, 2010, 7:04 AM
Post #36 of 57
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Buy whatever is cheapest. If money is no object, a bunch of keylocks are nice. If you're carrying a poop load of them, wires sure are nice too.
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I_do
Mar 11, 2010, 12:39 PM
Post #37 of 57
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mach2 wrote: Buy whatever is cheapest. If money is no object, a bunch of keylocks are nice. If you're carrying a poop load of them, wires sure are nice too.
I completely disagree. Get something you like straight away, or you will just end up replacing it down the road, spending money twice is never cheap.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 11, 2010, 3:35 PM
Post #38 of 57
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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I_do wrote: mach2 wrote: Buy whatever is cheapest. If money is no object, a bunch of keylocks are nice. If you're carrying a poop load of them, wires sure are nice too. I completely disagree. Get something you like straight away, or you will just end up replacing it down the road, spending money twice is never cheap.
"I'm not rich, I can't afford to buy cheap stuff."-- forgot who said that, and probalby butchered it in double-translation, but it is often true, isn't it?
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I_do
Mar 11, 2010, 3:40 PM
Post #39 of 57
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lena_chita wrote: I_do wrote: mach2 wrote: Buy whatever is cheapest. If money is no object, a bunch of keylocks are nice. If you're carrying a poop load of them, wires sure are nice too. I completely disagree. Get something you like straight away, or you will just end up replacing it down the road, spending money twice is never cheap. "I'm not rich, I can't afford to buy cheap stuff."-- forgot who said that, and probalby butchered it in double-translation, but it is often true, isn't it?
I like it, it's russian I presume? What's the original I'd like to be able to use it.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 11, 2010, 3:51 PM
Post #40 of 57
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I_do wrote: lena_chita wrote: I_do wrote: mach2 wrote: Buy whatever is cheapest. If money is no object, a bunch of keylocks are nice. If you're carrying a poop load of them, wires sure are nice too. I completely disagree. Get something you like straight away, or you will just end up replacing it down the road, spending money twice is never cheap. "I'm not rich, I can't afford to buy cheap stuff."-- forgot who said that, and probalby butchered it in double-translation, but it is often true, isn't it? I like it, it's russian I presume? What's the original I'd like to be able to use it.
No, I think it actually was first said in English, but I first heard it in Russian-- my grandfather was fond of saying it-- and just now I translated it back to English.
I googled it-- and came up with "I am not rich enough to buy cheaply" attributed to anonimous...
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I_do
Mar 11, 2010, 3:57 PM
Post #41 of 57
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lena_chita wrote: I_do wrote: lena_chita wrote: I_do wrote: mach2 wrote: Buy whatever is cheapest. If money is no object, a bunch of keylocks are nice. If you're carrying a poop load of them, wires sure are nice too. I completely disagree. Get something you like straight away, or you will just end up replacing it down the road, spending money twice is never cheap. "I'm not rich, I can't afford to buy cheap stuff."-- forgot who said that, and probalby butchered it in double-translation, but it is often true, isn't it? I like it, it's russian I presume? What's the original I'd like to be able to use it. No, I think it actually was first said in English, but I first heard it in Russian-- my grandfather was fond of saying it-- and just now I translated it back to English. I googled it-- and came up with "I am not rich enough to buy cheaply" attributed to anonimous...
Damn, I would have liked to have a russian saying handy.
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cracklover
Mar 11, 2010, 5:45 PM
Post #42 of 57
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jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO WTF izzat? D'oh! Brain fart! Of course I meant DMM Heliums! Sorry if I confused anyone! GO Strike two! Jay
Oh hell. Thanks for the catch. Heliums are made by Wild Country.
G
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bill413
Mar 11, 2010, 7:52 PM
Post #43 of 57
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
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cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: ...I own and use the Petzl Heliums... GO WTF izzat? D'oh! Brain fart! Of course I meant DMM Heliums! Sorry if I confused anyone! GO Strike two! Jay Oh hell. Thanks for the catch. Heliums are made by Wild Country. G
Man, everybody's stealing the design!
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Khoi
Mar 14, 2010, 8:16 AM
Post #44 of 57
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Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
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gmggg wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Notchless nose solid gate on the top to make it easier to clean from blots when you're done with the route. Wire gates for bottom biner for easy clipping (wire makes a nice flat spot that your finger won't roll off). This is correct. End of discussion; and it will be until the notchless wiregate is invented.
In addition to the Wild Country Heliums and the DMM Shields, and the upcoming Petzl Ange's (I'm not getting into the debate of whether or not they count as wiregates) there's also the Mammut Bionic wiregates.
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angry
Mar 14, 2010, 1:58 PM
Post #45 of 57
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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If I was given my choice of quick draws to sport climb with, they would all be Petzl Spirit. Despite their solid gate, the Spirit draw is perfect.
How much does that matter though?
My sport draws consist of all manner of biners retired from my trad rack (save weight in trad, not sport), random bootied biners, stuff I must have stolen from friends, and who knows what else.
A good half of my dogbones are hand tied webbing. Some are those skinny things. Others are those badass Petzl dogbones.
I'll have a dozen more cheap draws next week.
Certainly I have my preferences. I just can't name a time that one model of draw or biner spelled disaster, a whip, or take, that wouldn't have happened with another model.
I suppose a locked biner on the rope end would rightfully fuck you. So yeah, don't hang locked biners off your project, enlightening.
Climb with what you like but don't act like a Liberty Oval hanging from a draw wouldn't get clipped. If clipping really is whats holding you down, well, you need to lead more. Gear purchasing won't make up for practice.
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bullswimmer
May 27, 2010, 3:22 AM
Post #47 of 57
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Registered: Mar 13, 2010
Posts: 7
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What about the Mad Rock Ultralights?
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cracklover
May 27, 2010, 4:35 PM
Post #48 of 57
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What about them?
GO
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caughtinside
May 27, 2010, 6:23 PM
Post #49 of 57
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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bullswimmer wrote: What about the Mad Rock Ultralights?
I've only used them a handful of times but I think they kind of suck. Mini biners for sport climbing aren't really necessary, and I've gotten my knuckle pinched between gate and nose on those things a couple times.
but I don't buy madrock anything anyway, don't like the company.
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suprasoup
May 27, 2010, 11:38 PM
Post #50 of 57
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
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granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Don't go for those stupid thin dogbones. The thicker ones are easier to grab. This is not advocating to grab your draws all the time, but is a very useful tool when you start working really hard routes for you. Those who argue that you should never grab a draw don't work routes that are hard for them.that or they are just willing to take the fall This coming from the 5.9 sport climber? Yeah, you obviously have a good handle on these things. take it easy princess, Does it look like i update that log frequently? Also that log does not list what i fall off. I'll have you know i've fallen off some serious 5.13s In all seriousness i wasn't trying to flame you i was just saying some people prefer to take the fall over grabbing a draw. When in the past i've grabbed draws its been scarier than a clean fall. Hope you have fun falling off your 5.13s, I think I'll actually work things out and send some hard routes instead. Maybe someday you'll understand what "working a route" really means. all this from someone who if i judge her by her logbook, as she has judged me, has her proudest ascent as hangdogging an 11. Well yes clearly you are a vastly superior climber to me in every respect. So ignore my points about grabbing dogbones and have fun "working a route" (aka french freeing and hangdogging the crap out of moderates. And in case you have the capacity to look past the flame throwing i will repeat In all seriousness i wasn't trying to flame you i was just saying some people prefer to take the fall over grabbing a draw. When in the past i've grabbed draws its been scarier than a clean fall.Yup, three seasons ago I could top rope 5.11b clean. You sure showed me! I probably haven't improved at all since 2006. For the love of pete, update your log. Last update was fall 2008, less than a year and a half ago. You've only had one season to improve since then! What else am I supposed to think? It was an honest mistake, so please get your panties out of that bunch. Understand that there's a lot more to working a route than falling over and over again till you finally hit the sequence right. You keep talking about grabbing draws when you're scared, THIS IS NOT WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. I'm talking about efficiently working out moves on a route you want to redpoint. I don't care if I'm a better climber than you or not. I just know how to work routes, and you are obviously very inefficient at it.
Why not TR it then until you've dialed in the moves? Why bother with falling or grabbing draws on lead if all your doing is sussing out the moves?
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