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dugl33
Jul 19, 2010, 8:17 PM
Post #26 of 40
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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Looks like a bit of a rough start. First bit of advice is don't take things too personally. There are some genuinely helpful people posting here, and even when the advice is a little ass-holish, sometimes with a little reflection it turns out to be on the money.
Regarding your question, in my opinion your choice of biners is fine. I've always liked the symmetry of ovals at the master point for topropes. Best practice dictates gates opposite and opposed and "down and out". The fact that you bought locking ovals for the purpose gets you bonus points. +1.
The petzl am'd if memory serves, is a fairly massive carabiner, but this is fine. You might occasionally have troubles fitting them into old small bolt hangers, but this shouldn't be a prob with modern hangers.
Embrace the international community of a-holes here on RC.noob -- its an unusual gathering of such festive banter. Its probably a bit like a fraternity hazing but in general all in good fun.
P.S., I had an eye opening experience once on a trip to France. The French are viewed by many Americans to be extremely rude (especially to American tourists). Anyhoo, on a trip on the TGV, I witnessed the most mind-blowing rudeness from one French person to another imaginable. As it dawned on me it was French on French rudeness, I came to see things in a little different light. I hadn't found the French to be particularly rude to me as a traveler, and witnessing the event meant I wouldn't take it too to heart when it did happen.
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clc
Jul 19, 2010, 8:17 PM
Post #27 of 40
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Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 495
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ya sweetness.
I was going to say some BS, something about diving and silly questions, then my kids distracted me. Oh well, I'm leaving it now..
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sbaclimber
Jul 19, 2010, 8:26 PM
Post #28 of 40
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dugl33 wrote: The French are viewed by many Americans to be extremely rude
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jeepnphreak
Jul 20, 2010, 12:02 AM
Post #29 of 40
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
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oks will be just fine for the master point of your anchor.
as long as the biners are not too big for the bolt and or chains, amds will be just fine. Some carabiners just dont fit through chains very well if you have them in your area.
The rocklock are big biners, I like them only for my belay. for anchoring I find them too big for chains and bolts. You might want to take a look at the black diamond positrons key-nose locking biners I find them to be a better size for squeezing in the the bolts and chain links better. http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1279583880791
Another possibility that you can do for an anchor is to buy 2 of the petzl express slings and put a locking biner on each end so you don't have to fiddle with webbing. Just slap one on each bolt and clip the rope in to the end 2 biners and instant anchor. I like the 17 cm size
http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1279583954109
(This post was edited by jeepnphreak on Jul 20, 2010, 12:04 AM)
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acorneau
Jul 20, 2010, 1:50 AM
Post #30 of 40
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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shoo wrote: I'll second adatesman's suggestion of a pair of solid gate ovals for the master point. Lockers or non-lockers isn't going to make much of a difference here, though more conservative thought will say a locker or two is nice. Get something with a nice thick, round bar stock, since and your belay 'biner are the ones that are going to take the most wear from the rope, and it helps the rope run through it smoothly. Steel is overkill, but if you can get 'em cheap, why not. They'll last forever, but they're too heavy for non-TR use.
Just an FYI, Sierra Trading Post has Mammut steel ovals for at really good prices, both locking ($11) and non-locking ($9.50), or even better with a coupon:
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/...1449_d-hardware/all/
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quixotle
Jul 20, 2010, 2:56 AM
Post #31 of 40
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Registered: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 9
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jeepnphreak wrote: oks will be just fine for the master point of your anchor. as long as the biners are not too big for the bolt and or chains, amds will be just fine. Some carabiners just dont fit through chains very well if you have them in your area. The rocklock are big biners, I like them only for my belay. for anchoring I find them too big for chains and bolts. You might want to take a look at the black diamond positrons key-nose locking biners I find them to be a better size for squeezing in the the bolts and chain links better. http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1279583880791 Another possibility that you can do for an anchor is to buy 2 of the petzl express slings and put a locking biner on each end so you don't have to fiddle with webbing. Just slap one on each bolt and clip the rope in to the end 2 biners and instant anchor. I like the 17 cm size http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1279583954109
thanks a lot! i was thinking about getting slings instead of webbing but figured the webbing would give me more options. the rocklocks are pretty big, i think i'll look into exchanging them for the positrons you mentioned. you're the second person to mention the size of the am'd's but they're no thicker than any of the other carabiners i have?
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shoo
Jul 20, 2010, 2:03 PM
Post #32 of 40
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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
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I had totally forgotten that I wrote this a while back! This should answer pretty much everything you need to know about carabiners, plus some.
If anyone ahs suggestions for edits or additions, let me know.
http://knol.google.com/k/carabiner#
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acorneau
Jul 20, 2010, 2:49 PM
Post #33 of 40
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quixotle wrote: thanks a lot! i was thinking about getting slings instead of webbing but figured the webbing would give me more options. the rocklocks are pretty big, i think i'll look into exchanging them for the positrons you mentioned. you're the second person to mention the size of the am'd's but they're no thicker than any of the other carabiners i have?
Most places won't take back climbing gear. You'll need them sooner or later so just hang on to them to add to your toolkit as you can.
The Am'D is a great medium-sized biner, not as thick bar stock as the Rocklock but not as small as a Positron. I have 2 that I use all the time.
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jeepnphreak
Jul 20, 2010, 4:31 PM
Post #34 of 40
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
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acorneau wrote: quixotle wrote: thanks a lot! i was thinking about getting slings instead of webbing but figured the webbing would give me more options. the rocklocks are pretty big, i think i'll look into exchanging them for the positrons you mentioned. you're the second person to mention the size of the am'd's but they're no thicker than any of the other carabiners i have? Most places won't take back climbing gear. You'll need them sooner or later so just hang on to them to add to your toolkit as you can. The Am'D is a great medium-sized biner, not as thick bar stock as the Rocklock but not as small as a Positron. I have 2 that I use all the time.
Yeah, dont get rid of the AMDs they have there uses, its nice to have a couple of medium sizes biners around. Climb a bit more and get more familier with the gear and you will find a use for them.
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Neoshade
Jul 27, 2010, 3:24 PM
Post #35 of 40
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Registered: May 11, 2009
Posts: 31
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Here's a thought for you all (y'all?)
I always use two carabiners for my master point for all recreational climbing (mountaineering is a whole different game).
I Use either one Non-locking and one Locking with opposed gates (same biner, different gates) such as the Petzl OK screwlock and OK straight gate.
OR
Use two locking 'biners of different shapes.
Now, I'm not sure that this will cause one of the biners to spin around and cross-load because it won't be weighted, and an anchor with separate loops for different anchor points (such as an equallette) may not like this, however...
I do this to avoid problem with identical lockers where the gates rub against each other's spine, and are difficult to tighten under any load (like when you climb to the top and double-check) and of course the rubbing causes them to un-screw a bit and wear the gate a lot.
Has anyone else encountered this problem of rubbing gates or used this 2nd method of different shape carabiners (one HMS, one Oval)?
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solochol0
Aug 11, 2010, 11:06 PM
Post #36 of 40
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Registered: Aug 11, 2010
Posts: 4
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im partial to the the fusion Tacoma Triple-Lock Carabiner for my master. They are a little pricey but if you can find a deal they will never go wrong on you. Also the fusion Tazo II Screw-Gate, it's aluminum instead of steel but unless you way somewhere over a ton you should be fine.
try http://kcwrigging.com/shop/fusion-tazo-ii-screw-gate-aluminum-carabiner
i got mine from here and it's pretty cheap and reliable as hell
but for an open gate i would agree with jeepnphreak the Petzl OK Open Gate or the spirit straight is a biner you can trust as well
try moosejaw.com but go through a site called spadout.com they will give you a coupon code to get it cheaper
here is that link
http://www.spadout.com/p/petzl-spirit-carabiner/#
reliable and inexpensive as well
hope this helps 
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Neoshade
Aug 12, 2010, 3:16 PM
Post #37 of 40
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Registered: May 11, 2009
Posts: 31
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"Triple-Lock"?
I'm not sure what that means - if you're using 3 of them - but yes, a steel locker is great for recreational TR. Just use at least one other non-locker. No point in relying on just one for weekend stuff.
Also - that carabiner is a rather sharp "D" shape.
A small HMS or better-yet oval locker would be better for rope drag.
spadeout, steep&cheap, gearx, backcountry, backcountrygear, moosejaw, and mountaingear are all good sites - The last two being my favorites for great service, product selection and prices.
I should hope that all the climbing krabs out there are reliable... I've never had a problem with any manufacturer... Now I feel the need to hunt for a post on any poor craftsmanship or companies :P
Anyway, thanks for the input - I guess what we were driving at is not the model of biner, but the config for TR master-points. :)
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patmay81
Aug 12, 2010, 4:36 PM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
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Neoshade wrote: but yes, a steel locker is great for recreational TR. Just use at least one other non-locker. No point in relying on just one for weekend stuff.
just buy a few non locking ovals. cheap, simple, light.
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Neoshade
Aug 12, 2010, 10:09 PM
Post #39 of 40
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Registered: May 11, 2009
Posts: 31
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I agree completely.
Just trying not to poo-poo him :)
also steel is good for wear over time, but yeah, heavy, etc. etc.
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NoMoCouch
Aug 24, 2010, 3:56 AM
Post #40 of 40
(1789 views)
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Registered: Jul 23, 2007
Posts: 60
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There are at least 2 correct responses to your query. One seems to have been given and is seek experienced help. The other is purchase this book .http://tinyurl.com/26895y7
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