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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 6, 2011, 1:52 AM
Post #26 of 41
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
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kachoong wrote: gee wrote: kachoong wrote: gee wrote: I'll add another vote for Arapiles. I'd skip Booroomba unless you particularly enjoy runout slabs. You obviously climb the wrong routes at Booroomba. There are at least 50 great crack climbs there. I probably have been, yeah. Any recommendations other than the obvious ones (Hermes, Vomit, Integral)? You living in ACT? Hmmm, well lets see. Fiasco (17) is a beautiful line (probably the best 17 pitch at Booroomba I reckon) and in the same area look for Madrigal (19?). Ummm... Yellow Brick Road (20 or 21) has a wonderful pitch up high from memory. I think also Outer Limit (18?) has some great moves on it. Big Boris (17?) I believe has some good crack. Fearon (15) is a nice line nearby but perhaps not too much crack climbing. Then there is Inscisor (tough 19) on the north butt... incredible line and intimidating when you're at the base of it. Do Hurricane Cracks too (I think one is a 15). Do Possum (13) and finish on Carressima finish (really enjoyable grade 15 pitch). Determinant (16) has some nice climbing on it too. If you do Possum, rap down and from the top of the traverse pitch, climb out left under the overlap and do the 18 that blasts up that face...can't remember it's name... maybe starts with an "I". More will come to mind, but that's a good start. All really good climbs IMO.
PTFTW (26) is splitter
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phang_nga
Jan 6, 2011, 2:10 AM
Post #27 of 41
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rtwilli4 wrote: There are at least 300 on Phra Nang, close to 100 on Phi Phi, and a few dozen at a new place in Chong Pli, near Ao Nang. Chong Pli is excellent by the way and alway empty. I can put you in touch w/ the route developer if you like, just Pm me.
Holy cow! That's a lot of routes in a relatively small area.
I'm not familiar with Chong Pli, I'll have to look into that. Where is it?
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CHACE
Jan 6, 2011, 11:01 AM
Post #28 of 41
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Registered: Nov 28, 2010
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Thanks for all the great advice. What advice would you give about guide books? What ones to buy? Or where to download so I dont end up hiking around with 20lbs of books in my bag. Also, does anyone know how cold it gets at night in the South Island of NZ around Castle Hill in February?
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kachoong
Jan 6, 2011, 12:42 PM
Post #29 of 41
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: kachoong wrote: gee wrote: kachoong wrote: gee wrote: I'll add another vote for Arapiles. I'd skip Booroomba unless you particularly enjoy runout slabs. You obviously climb the wrong routes at Booroomba. There are at least 50 great crack climbs there. I probably have been, yeah. Any recommendations other than the obvious ones (Hermes, Vomit, Integral)? You living in ACT? Hmmm, well lets see. Fiasco (17) is a beautiful line (probably the best 17 pitch at Booroomba I reckon) and in the same area look for Madrigal (19?). Ummm... Yellow Brick Road (20 or 21) has a wonderful pitch up high from memory. I think also Outer Limit (18?) has some great moves on it. Big Boris (17?) I believe has some good crack. Fearon (15) is a nice line nearby but perhaps not too much crack climbing. Then there is Inscisor (tough 19) on the north butt... incredible line and intimidating when you're at the base of it. Do Hurricane Cracks too (I think one is a 15). Do Possum (13) and finish on Carressima finish (really enjoyable grade 15 pitch). Determinant (16) has some nice climbing on it too. If you do Possum, rap down and from the top of the traverse pitch, climb out left under the overlap and do the 18 that blasts up that face...can't remember it's name... maybe starts with an "I". More will come to mind, but that's a good start. All really good climbs IMO. PTFTW (26) is splitter
You rapped in a stole my draws!
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kachoong
Jan 6, 2011, 12:54 PM
Post #30 of 41
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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CHACE wrote: Also, does anyone know how cold it gets at night in the South Island of NZ around Castle Hill in February?
February in NZ is likely going to be mostly warm-hot, so night times around Castle Hill will probably get down to 40-50F minimum (5-10C).
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phang_nga
Jan 6, 2011, 3:57 PM
Post #31 of 41
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rtwilli4 wrote: ... and a few dozen at a new place in Chong Pli, near Ao Nang. Chong Pli is excellent by the way and alway empty. I can put you in touch w/ the route developer if you like, just Pm me.
Oh, THAT Chong Pli. I know where that is. I was just near there today looking at some land to buy... which I think I will. There are cliffs two minutes from this land and on the top of the mountain there's a hidden lagoon!
Lao Liang / Ao Nang Mark bolted Chong Pli, right?
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 6, 2011, 4:58 PM
Post #32 of 41
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
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CHACE wrote: Thanks for all the great advice. What advice would you give about guide books? What ones to buy? Or where to download so I dont end up hiking around with 20lbs of books in my bag. Also, does anyone know how cold it gets at night in the South Island of NZ around Castle Hill in February?
You can always get by without guidebooks.
That said. I used printouts most the time, when available. The nice thing about going to lesser traveled crags is that they usually only have printouts. Off the top of my head, I had printouts for the north island of New Zealand, Singapore quarry, central thailand (Lopburi, Saraburi, Katchanaburi), Laos, and Hong Kong. I bought the book at Arapiles and Blueys in AU, Batu Caves Malaysia, and Yangshuo China. The AU guides were the best I've ever seen, I half bought them as a collectors item. They weren't huge, but not small either. The Batu Caves and Yangshuo books were tiny and cheap. Everywhere else I just used local knowledge through the people I climbed with.
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rtwilli4
Jan 6, 2011, 6:27 PM
Post #33 of 41
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That's the one! Very fun climbing.
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wiki
Jan 6, 2011, 9:17 PM
Post #34 of 41
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 243
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porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. castle hill for bouldering and a bit of sport climbing. wanaka and queenstown are worth a visit. I would recommend getting hold of a copy of rock deluxe, it gives you a bit of information about most of the south island crags.
I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing! I much prefer climbing on Ingimbrite! Some of the crags up the Ruapehu area are awesome as well!
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sbaclimber
Jan 7, 2011, 1:02 PM
Post #35 of 41
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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wiki wrote: porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing!
If someone is just visiting the country, you are both right. Both islands offer great climbing opportunities.
The SI does offer (arguably?) more and more variety though. And....for boulderers, Castle Hill is world class and not to be missed.
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 7, 2011, 1:03 PM)
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sbaclimber
Jan 7, 2011, 1:10 PM
Post #36 of 41
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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CHACE wrote: Thanks for all the great advice. What advice would you give about guide books? What ones to buy? Or where to download so I dont end up hiking around with 20lbs of books in my bag. Also, does anyone know how cold it gets at night in the South Island of NZ around Castle Hill in February?
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kachoong
Jan 7, 2011, 2:06 PM
Post #37 of 41
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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sbaclimber wrote: wiki wrote: porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing! Hehe, it's always funny to see the N. islanders get upset when someone claims the mainland is better... If someone is just visiting the country, you are both right. Both islands offer great climbing opportunities. The SI does offer (arguably?) more and more variety though. And....for boulderers, Castle Hill is world class and not to be missed.
...and by "mainland" you obviously mean Australia...
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sbaclimber
Jan 7, 2011, 2:08 PM
Post #38 of 41
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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kachoong wrote: sbaclimber wrote: wiki wrote: porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing! Hehe, it's always funny to see the N. islanders get upset when someone claims the mainland is better... If someone is just visiting the country, you are both right. Both islands offer great climbing opportunities. The SI does offer (arguably?) more and more variety though. And....for boulderers, Castle Hill is world class and not to be missed. ...and by "mainland" you obviously mean Australia... 
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 7, 2011, 4:39 PM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
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sbaclimber wrote: wiki wrote: porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing! Hehe, it's always funny to see the N. islanders get upset when someone claims the mainland is better... If someone is just visiting the country, you are both right. Both islands offer great climbing opportunities. The SI does offer (arguably?) more and more variety though. And....for boulderers, Castle Hill is world class and not to be missed.
I disagree, for short term visitors. The NI has a much more compact area of climbing for someone stopping through for just a couple weeks with no car. You can walk to places like Froggatts and Sheridan, and Waipapa is just down the street with heaps of cracks on granite-like ignimbrite. And of course Whekenui (I know I butchered the spelling) and the other Taupo areas are just a couple hours away. It doesn't have the variety of SI, but there is plenty to do for 2-4 weeks without getting bored.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 7, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #40 of 41
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kachoong wrote: sbaclimber wrote: wiki wrote: porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing! Hehe, it's always funny to see the N. islanders get upset when someone claims the mainland is better... If someone is just visiting the country, you are both right. Both islands offer great climbing opportunities. The SI does offer (arguably?) more and more variety though. And....for boulderers, Castle Hill is world class and not to be missed. ...and by "mainland" you obviously mean Australia...
I was told by many Kiwis that that is NZ's "West Island".
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sbaclimber
Jan 7, 2011, 6:04 PM
Post #41 of 41
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sbaclimber wrote: wiki wrote: porthillsclimber wrote: For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. I disagree! Central North Island has a lot of really good climbing! Hehe, it's always funny to see the N. islanders get upset when someone claims the mainland is better... If someone is just visiting the country, you are both right. Both islands offer great climbing opportunities. The SI does offer (arguably?) more and more variety though. And....for boulderers, Castle Hill is world class and not to be missed. I disagree, for short term visitors. The NI has a much more compact area of climbing for someone stopping through for just a couple weeks with no car. You can walk to places like Froggatts and Sheridan, and Waipapa is just down the street with heaps of cracks on granite-like ignimbrite. And of course Whekenui (I know I butchered the spelling) and the other Taupo areas are just a couple hours away. It doesn't have the variety of SI, but there is plenty to do for 2-4 weeks without getting bored.
PS: FYI, Waipapa is currently closed and probably won't be open by the time the OP is there...
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 7, 2011, 6:08 PM)
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