And wolf gang invent the campus board, ask yourself why. Maybe he was better off doing some endurance drills.

Is there anyone out there that can explain to me why these people are so unneccessarily negative? Is it jealously like you guys said it was before? Help me understand, seriously. Is there no good reason? Is this simply how most people are and I haven't noticed in my bubble?

Over 14 years of climbing, every climber I've met in person shares the same reverance for climbing that I do and seems to separate climbing life from the bullshit involved in day to day life. Yet on this climbing forum, I feel like I'm in high school again.

I guess climbing has become so mainstream, it's just like everything else now?

The reason that doing endurance drills is such common advice is because most climbers are incredibly strong in comparison to their endurance because of bouldering gyms. Wolfgang probably did not have that problem. Also, if you do them correctly, a 4x4 is a hundred times more debilitating than any campus workout and was a tool developed, like the campus board, to develop the fitness to climb world class routes.

I wont argue with that, but i have never once done a 4x4 with ought multiples interruptions by random climbers. Also my understanding is that 4x4's targets high end endurance where as campusing pushes maximum strength limit and strength endurance. Could be wrong on that.

I doubt campusing does much for endurance unless you are doing tons of reps, and then you would be much better off doing something else.

I started doing 4x4s in earnest a few months ago. Due to my schedule being really weird, I haven't been able to do more than 3 sessions in a row without long breaks in between, but my hardest onsight is now a grade above where my previous hardest redpoint was before I started 4x4s.

Guess i will try to read up on it. I just thought that in pushing maximum strength you are at the peak if not slightly beyond the highest level of strength endurance.

Anyway, good for you on the improvements.

Is there anyone out there that can explain to me why these people are so unneccessarily negative? Is it jealously like you guys said it was before? Help me understand, seriously. Is there no good reason? Is this simply how most people are and I haven't noticed in my bubble?

Over 14 years of climbing, every climber I've met in person shares the same reverance for climbing that I do and seems to separate climbing life from the bullshit involved in day to day life. Yet on this climbing forum, I feel like I'm in high school again.

I guess climbing has become so mainstream, it's just like everything else now?

P.S. Flesh, you may want to look into getting JT512's rc.com tweaks / killfile. It automatically hides all the posts of anyone you file. Very useful.

Sorry, Ceebo, but there's no such thing as respectable grades or mediocre grades. All climbing is good in whatever discipline and level one feels comfortable in. You might be a numbers chaser but most of us are more interested in climbing good routes, regardless of the grade.

This climb was rated v12 originally, however, I suspect it's a little easier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpxClpxnSnE&feature=related

Hold on, that's Mr. Mom put up by Jeff Webb back in 95 or 96. I don't remember him calling it V12. It was more like V9 if I recall correctly.

Grade inflation anyone?

Hold on, that's Mr. Mom put up by Jeff Webb back in 95 or 96. I don't remember him calling it V12. It was more like V9 if I recall correctly.

Grade inflation anyone?

lol, i think i'll buy two copies of your new book now...

10 copies if you replace the word every use of the word "failing" in the book with "ceeboing"

Now you are making me wish that we had repeatedly used the word "punter" in the book.

Why do you assume a person who is a grade chaser has less love for climbing than you?. And ofc their is such thing as mediocre.. unless i am imagining this list of difficulty grades in order from easiest to hardest.

Btw, you may not know this ( < sarcasm).. but it is possible to pick a fun and enjoyable looking hard route. Besides, the guy who can climb the hardest.. can go to any crag and have greater option of ''fun climbs''.... logical huh?.

I didn't accuse you of not loving climbing. I just pointed out that because some grades are easy and others hard doesn't mean that the easier ones are mediocre and the harder ones are respectable.

And, no, not logical. It all depends on the climbing area. If you're talking Rifle, yes, you're right. If you're at the Potrero Chico, or Joshua Tree, or Devil's Tower, or the Gunks, etc, etc, you're wrong.

HAHA, well it's actually not done, I promised y'all though so I will put it here next week sometime... I've been busy bouldering outside before it gets to hot. 10PM session coming tonight.

Sorry I haven't put up the video yet, I'm going out of town for two weeks. I PROMISE I'll do it when I get back. Here's a little video of how the open handed campusing has helped me. This climb was rated v12 originally, however, I suspect it's a little easier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpxClpxnSnE&feature=related

HAHA, well it's actually not done, I promised y'all though so I will put it here next week sometime... I've been busy bouldering outside before it gets to hot. 10PM session coming tonight.

Sorry I haven't put up the video yet, I'm going out of town for two weeks. I PROMISE I'll do it when I get back. Here's a little video of how the open handed campusing has helped me. This climb was rated v12 originally, however, I suspect it's a little easier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpxClpxnSnE&feature=related

Yes, it is my understanding the original Mr. Mom is easier (V10 according to the "black bible") and it starts on Bear Hug sit and moves left to Johny's Mantel. However, "Mr. Mom the Hard Way" (AKA "Back-door Bearhug" I think) goes from left to right as Flesh did it. Until Flesh suggested V11/12, I had only heard V12 for the grade. As for first-hand experience I can only say that either direction is beyond my current abilities.