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johnwesely
Sep 27, 2011, 6:05 PM
Post #26 of 52
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lena_chita wrote: shockabuku wrote: sungam wrote: A quad is the standard top rope setup. Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws. You never know what you run into... This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors. They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms. As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed. You should have refused.
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bearbreeder
Sep 27, 2011, 6:19 PM
Post #27 of 52
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so let me get this straight ... a bunch of newbies (i assume they are new) want you to climb up and set up their anchor, yet dont want you to use 2 opposed draws, and want you to haul up a 11mm static rope with steel quicklinks ... all because they dont feel safe with the standard sport climbing anchor setup ... sometimes "safety" runs amock ... i can understanding wanting a standard fig 8 setup with a sling ... but a 11mm quad with quicklinks ???
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shockabuku
Sep 27, 2011, 10:32 PM
Post #28 of 52
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lena_chita wrote: shockabuku wrote: sungam wrote: A quad is the standard top rope setup. Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws. You never know what you run into... This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors. They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms. As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed. You should have told them you needed to use another rope for a haul line!
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jordanindenmark
Sep 28, 2011, 1:49 AM
Post #29 of 52
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I tied a quad out of some 11 mm KMIII static rope and that thing looks bomber as hell. I mean for this thing to break on you while TRing god would have to have a personal vendetta with you. Two Rocklocks for the rope point and two Positron Lockers for the arms. I think I'd trust this more then two flimsy draws.
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jordanindenmark
Sep 28, 2011, 3:33 AM
Post #31 of 52
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shockabuku wrote: jordanindenmark wrote: I tied a quad out of some 11 mm KMIII static rope and that thing looks bomber as hell. I mean for this thing to break on you while TRing god would have to have a personal vendetta with you. Two Rocklocks for the rope point and two Positron Lockers for the arms. I think I'd trust this more then two flimsy draws. [image]http://ih2.redbubble.net/work.1073982.2.flat,550x550,075,f.you-can-lead-a-horse-to-water.jpg[/image] Know what I mean? Huh? I actually don't. Sorry I missed something.
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sbaclimber
Sep 28, 2011, 9:17 AM
Post #32 of 52
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jordanindenmark wrote: shockabuku wrote: jordanindenmark wrote: I tied a quad out of some 11 mm KMIII static rope and that thing looks bomber as hell. I mean for this thing to break on you while TRing god would have to have a personal vendetta with you. Two Rocklocks for the rope point and two Positron Lockers for the arms. I think I'd trust this more then two flimsy draws. [image]http://ih2.redbubble.net/work.1073982.2.flat,550x550,075,f.you-can-lead-a-horse-to-water.jpg[/image] Know what I mean? Huh? I actually don't. Sorry I missed something. "horse"....."water"......ring a bell?
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 11:11 AM
Post #33 of 52
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jordanindenmark wrote: I tied a quad out of some 11 mm KMIII static rope and that thing looks bomber as hell. I mean for this thing to break on you while TRing god would have to have a personal vendetta with you. Two Rocklocks for the rope point and two Positron Lockers for the arms. I think I'd trust this more then two flimsy draws. Don't let the haters get to you. They are just trying to justify there own unsafe use of flimsy quickdraws. They may tell you that two quickdraws is good enough, but I have seen the rope come unclipped from such a set up more than I would like. Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I have also seen this happen, and it is by no means pretty.
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sbaclimber
Sep 28, 2011, 11:25 AM
Post #34 of 52
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johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it.
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 12:16 PM
Post #35 of 52
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sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it. I think you just did.
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sbaclimber
Sep 28, 2011, 1:31 PM
Post #36 of 52
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johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it. I think you just did. Did what?
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:05 PM
Post #37 of 52
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sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it. I think you just did. Did what?
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sbaclimber
Sep 28, 2011, 2:08 PM
Post #38 of 52
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johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it. I think you just did. Did what? Wow, I am slow today. Good thing it's almost beer-time.
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:10 PM
Post #39 of 52
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sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it. I think you just did. Did what? Wow, I am slow today. Good thing it's almost beer-time. Isn't it always beer time in Germany?
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camhead
Sep 28, 2011, 2:12 PM
Post #41 of 52
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worst thread ever.
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sbaclimber
Sep 28, 2011, 2:13 PM
Post #42 of 52
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johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Not to mention that if you take a big top rope fall, 10 or more feet, you are liable to exceed the strength of the draw and break one of them at least. I really hope you're trolling here and I am just too slow to pick up on it. I think you just did. Did what? Wow, I am slow today. Good thing it's almost beer-time. Isn't it always beer time in Germany?
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cracklover
Sep 28, 2011, 6:07 PM
Post #43 of 52
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lena_chita wrote: shockabuku wrote: sungam wrote: A quad is the standard top rope setup. Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws. You never know what you run into... This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors. They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms. As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed. Hahaha! That's too funny! GO
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jordanindenmark
Sep 29, 2011, 3:09 AM
Post #44 of 52
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Registered: Sep 21, 2011
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I have never heard that idiom before or knew what it meant... Thank Google for the knowledge. Haha. Seriously though given the two options using two somewhat bomber quickdraws or using this badass looking nuke proof quad setup. I'd easily go with the better setup. I mean that is like asking if you'd choose a Honda over a Jaguar, given that they are both free.
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redlude97
Sep 29, 2011, 3:16 AM
Post #45 of 52
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jordanindenmark wrote: I have never heard that idiom before or knew what it meant... Thank Google for the knowledge. Haha. Seriously though given the two options using two somewhat bomber quickdraws or using this badass looking nuke proof quad setup. I'd easily go with the better setup. I mean that is like asking if you'd choose a Honda over a Jaguar, given that they are both free. Do you always climb with 2 11mm ropes too?
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jordanindenmark
Sep 29, 2011, 3:44 AM
Post #46 of 52
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Pshh I guess you could say that it is over kill. But I don't see it as a matter of strength but backup. There are a total of 4 connections the rock or impacts would have to sever in order for the anchor to fail vs. only two. I mean yeah you could look at the fact I am only using one rope and be like yeah why aren't you using two 11mm rope to climb with. It does matter if you have a two 11mm ropes or one 9mm rope if the anchor fails does it?
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redlude97
Sep 29, 2011, 4:08 AM
Post #47 of 52
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jordanindenmark wrote: Pshh I guess you could say that it is over kill. But I don't see it as a matter of strength but backup. There are a total of 4 connections the rock or impacts would have to sever in order for the anchor to fail vs. only two. I mean yeah you could look at the fact I am only using one rope and be like yeah why aren't you using two 11mm rope to climb with. It does matter if you have a two 11mm ropes or one 9mm rope if the anchor fails does it? Actually, you are still limited by the 2 bolts, 2 bolt biners, and 2 rope biners. The only thing you've increased is the legs to 4. The benefit of the quad has more to do with its equalization capabilities
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jordanindenmark
Sep 29, 2011, 7:57 AM
Post #48 of 52
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Registered: Sep 21, 2011
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Yeah, I do like that the rope biners can freely slide and re-equalize. Besides it is just a badass looking anchor.
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sungam
Sep 29, 2011, 8:29 AM
Post #49 of 52
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jordanindenmark wrote: it is just a badass looking anchor. Heh, kinda true. "I believe it was Colonel Mustard, with the wrench, in the living room!" "Nope! It was Jordan, in denmark, with the 11mm quad!"
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