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shockabuku
Jun 6, 2012, 1:44 AM
Post #26 of 43
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TradEddie wrote: shockabuku wrote: I'm not aware that the Gunks has 5.14. Can you enlighten me? My bad. Officially only 5.13d, I'd heard that Cody Sims had put up a 5.14, maybe it's still a project. TE
It's all academic to me - I'm not climbing above 5.13 any time soon.
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edge
Jun 6, 2012, 1:49 AM
Post #27 of 43
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My vote is for Tuolumne, with side trips down into the Valley on cooler or cloudy days. There are years worth of climbs in your grade within a walk or free shuttle ride from the campground.
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r0x0r.wolfo
Jun 6, 2012, 5:28 PM
Post #28 of 43
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cracklover wrote: ] Have you looked into leasing a car for your stay? Oh, and for those who may have been wondering - the guy said he climbs E2, which is roughly 5.10c GO
Yeah perhaps I may be back to that level before I go, perhaps not. The e2 was last year on a pretty run out climb so not mega difficult but i've dropped a few grades due to not having much time to climb.
Yosemite I feel is best saved for another trip, with myself and the partner I take climbing harder grades. How much climbing is there at the lower levels? If there's not a lot decent below 5.9, alongside adjusting to a different style I imagine we'd find ourselves frustrated.
I actually want to ask a bit more about the Gunks, looks like a good place to climb for a month and we'd be able to crack on at whatever level and build up. Just wondering how easy it'd be to stay out there for a while without a car. I'd appreciate any info on this ;).
As per your weather comments I think we're looking at end of august to end of September, East or West.
Thanks so much for your replies.
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olderic
Jun 6, 2012, 6:15 PM
Post #29 of 43
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At this point I think you've got all the climbing specific and most of the general advice you are likely to get. the next step might be to propose something quite specific and see what responses you get.
The one thing I would suggest is that you give some serious thought (not just unilateral but include your GF) as to where on the all climbing to all sightseeing/touristing/urban culture place on the spectrum you want this tip to end up. So far most of the discussion has revolved around the climbing aspects. Maybe its as simple as that but personally I couldn't really take being stuck carless in one place for a month no matter how good the climbing. Not even the Valley, certainly not the Gunks (and I love the Gunks). I would want some options for the bad weather and rest days if nothing more although if you are traveling here for the first time I would think you'd want to see some of the sighs etc.
And if any of this non climbing stuff is a concern I would think that might tip the scales more towards the east where it least the urban stuff is more densely located and easier to access without a car.
But no matter where you end up I think you'll find that if you advertise your imminent arrival when the time comes you will likely end up with multiple offers for tourguides, hosts etc.
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cracklover
Jun 6, 2012, 6:24 PM
Post #30 of 43
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r0x0r.wolfo wrote: cracklover wrote: ] Have you looked into leasing a car for your stay? Oh, and for those who may have been wondering - the guy said he climbs E2, which is roughly 5.10c GO Yeah perhaps I may be back to that level before I go, perhaps not. The e2 was last year on a pretty run out climb so not mega difficult but i've dropped a few grades due to not having much time to climb. Yosemite I feel is best saved for another trip, with myself and the partner I take climbing harder grades. How much climbing is there at the lower levels? If there's not a lot decent below 5.9, alongside adjusting to a different style I imagine we'd find ourselves frustrated. I actually want to ask a bit more about the Gunks, looks like a good place to climb for a month and we'd be able to crack on at whatever level and build up. Just wondering how easy it'd be to stay out there for a while without a car. I'd appreciate any info on this ;). As per your weather comments I think we're looking at end of august to end of September, East or West. Thanks so much for your replies.
For a ton of excellent climbs from 5.easy to 5.10c, it would be hard to go wrong at the Gunks. It could definitely be done without a car, but you might at least want to rent bikes in New Palz for the month.
Weather-wise, I used to climb all summer in the Gunks. I didn't find it so terrible. But I'm not affected by the heat as much as some, so YMMV. At any rate, late August through late September, you'll probably be missing most of the hottest part of the year, and getting into some cooler days.
Also, New Paltz is a very cute little town, with fun cafes and restaurants that you and your partner will be able to have fun exploring on rest days and evenings.
And if you meet and make friends with other folks staying there, you'll probably be able to get rides every now and then.
GO
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skurdeycat
Jun 6, 2012, 7:26 PM
Post #31 of 43
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
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r0x0r.wolfo wrote: We're both 21ish and are too young to rent cars :(.
http://www.autorentalguide.com/car-rentals-under-25.shtml
Not sure about how much the extra fees would be, but take a look. If you could get a car, and climbing is not your primary goal, I'd suggest fly to Vegas or Salt Lake, hit the National Parks in Bryce, Zion, Arches, Canyonlands and maybe the Grand Canyon, a little climbing here and there, but a great trip.
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r0x0r.wolfo
Jun 7, 2012, 12:28 AM
Post #32 of 43
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olderic wrote: The one thing I would suggest is that you give some serious thought (not just unilateral but include your GF) as to where on the all climbing to all sightseeing/touristing/urban culture place on the spectrum you want this tip to end up. And if any of this non climbing stuff is a concern I would think that might tip the scales more towards the east where it least the urban stuff is more densely located and easier to access without a car. But no matter where you end up I think you'll find that if you advertise your imminent arrival when the time comes you will likely end up with multiple offers for tourguides, hosts etc.
Hey you're completely right, we will be doing some non climbing stuff, so if we were to go Gunks we talked about visiting NewYork on the way and on the way back.
I will definitely post on here and tell you guys what I'm doing/where I'm going and would be happy to make friends in the area. MY girlfriend's done more travelling than me and been NewYork but I'm definitely a bit newer to this stuff hence I'm bothering you guys with my questions
In reply to: Weather-wise, I used to climb all summer in the Gunks. I didn't find it so terrible. But I'm not affected by the heat as much as some, so YMMV. At any rate, late August through late September, you'll probably be missing most of the hottest part of the year, and getting into some cooler days.
In reply to: -ish? Is that 21 or not? Bad enough being stuck without a car, but do you realize that under 21 you cannot buy (or drink) booze, and in a college town like New Paltz, everybody gets carded (I'm over 40 and still get carded regularly in town). If you are 21 and she is 20 the next week, buying her booze is a crime, not just a slap in the wrist. The cops do not turn a blind eye to this.
Climbing is MY primary goal but probably not as much hers :P, time in the Newyork area seems like a reasonable compromise. Got no climbing done in barcelona so she owes me I think :P.
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rgold
Jun 7, 2012, 2:13 AM
Post #33 of 43
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If you want to spend some time in a city, then places like Tuolumne (which from a car-less climbing perspective might be the best bet) will not work. The Gunks is probably the best option in the country for combining climbing and culture. You could camp at the cliffs and, as suggested, rent bicycles in order to get into town (about 8 miles). From town, NYC is an hour and a half away by bus, so is totally reasonable for day trips.
There is climbers cooperative in New Paltz now. http://npclimbingcooperative.wordpress.com/
Stopping by during one of their evening activities (see site) could help to get you plugged into the local community (you won't be able to boulder there however; I don't think that there are short-term memberships).
You should also post about your plans on gunks.com. The site doesn't have a big audience, but (obviously) lots of local gunks climbers read it and you might reach people who could be helpful during your stay.
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tempusfrangit
Jun 7, 2012, 2:51 AM
Post #34 of 43
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The Climbing Co-Op was doing community night on Tuesdays, where non-members could climb for $5. Don't see any info about it on their website or Facebook, though.
If you come to the Gunks/NYC area, you might be able to swing climbing at the Delaware Water Gap as well. The AMC is running a shuttle service from the city to their Mohican Outdoor Center, which is north of the Gap, but still hikeable, IIRC.
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TradEddie
Jun 7, 2012, 12:13 PM
Post #35 of 43
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Due to the many commuters to NYC, there are several bus services to the town of Delaware Water Gap, but it's hardly a destination worth traveling across the globe for. DWG has some great climbs, but only about a days worth of climbs at any given level. I sometimes drive right past DWG on my way to the Gunks, and rarely consider stopping.
Back to the Gunks, there are locals who occasionally rent apartments, houses and even rooms short term to climbers, see Gunks.com.
TE
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coastal_climber
Jun 14, 2012, 12:27 AM
Post #36 of 43
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The americans want you to go to the states so you can boost the shitty economy.
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satch
Jun 15, 2012, 1:35 PM
Post #37 of 43
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The cheapest place with the most climbs may be the New River Gorge. You can walk to most of the climbs from the various campgrounds.
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mheyman
Jun 16, 2012, 4:30 PM
Post #38 of 43
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Registered: Jul 25, 2002
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TradEddie wrote: Delaware Water Gap, but it's hardly a destination worth traveling across the globe for. DWG has some great climbs.TE
Agreed. Besides the trail from Mohican might be the busiest section of AT in the area, its not a short hike, and you end up on the wrong side of the river from the better part of the Gap.
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marc801
Jun 16, 2012, 10:21 PM
Post #39 of 43
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mheyman wrote: TradEddie wrote: Delaware Water Gap, but it's hardly a destination worth traveling across the globe from almost anywhere, even if you're local, for. DWG has some great climbs.TE Agreed. Besides the trail from Mohican might be the busiest section of AT in the area, its not a short hike, and you end up on the wrong side of the river from the better part of the Gap.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 16, 2012, 11:16 PM
Post #40 of 43
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satch wrote: The cheapest place with the most climbs may be the New River Gorge. You can walk to most of the climbs from the various campgrounds.
aug and sept? pretty hot then isn't it?
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r0x0r.wolfo
Jun 17, 2012, 11:51 PM
Post #41 of 43
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Hey guys, heavily looking at gunks now. So we can get a a coach from Newyork to Newpaltz which is about 8 mile away from the climbing?
What do you guys reckon is the best way to play it without a car? Can we find a campsite nearby and just get groceries every so often? Liked the look of creekview but that's even further away than Newpaltz. What are Taxis like in the area? Thought about hiring a (push)bike but one shop was advertising $30 a day each for a bike and only daily rates :|. Buy two cheap bikes? What do you guys think?
Thinking mid august to mid September.
If we can get a few more things worked out in our heads we'll book tickets pretty soon.
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rgold
Jun 18, 2012, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Stay at "Camp Slime," a wooded patch on Mohonk Preserve land just off the road. You can walk to virtually all the climbs in the area from there. There are only a few tent sites. You won't have a problem if you arrive on Mon--Thurs
I think this has been mentioned, but you'll each have to pay the Mohonk Preserve $17 a day for climbing. If you are going to climb for more than five days, it makes sense to purchase an annual pass for $90, (or $80 if you can show you are full-time students).
$30 a day for a bicycle doesn't seem to make sense, when you could buy a used one for perhaps $100. Have a look at the offerings in Craig's List http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/bik/
Without bikes you'd have to hitch back and forth to town. This would be easiest on weekends when there are lots of climbers driving the roads; carry your ropes to identify yourself as one of the clan. I have no idea what hitching might be like during the week, but there might be people here who have some experience with that...
As I suggested in a previous message, you should also be posting on gunks.com.
Edit: clickified link.
(This post was edited by rgold on Jun 18, 2012, 8:22 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jun 18, 2012, 10:10 PM
Post #43 of 43
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what Rich said above ^^
There's also a rude and expensive mini mart just at the bottom of the hill for those days that you can't get into town and only want a few basic supplies.
Slime is your best bet, though, for camping out.
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