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ajkclay
Jan 27, 2006, 4:58 AM
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Half the routes at Moonarie.
A lot were climbed and graded at a time when 16 (5.7) was the hardest grade going and so there are heaps of routes there not graded higher because 16 was as hard as it got.
Consequently the are routes such as Corkscrew retribution which is described as an "oldschool" 14 (5.6) that feels more like a run out and scary 20 (5.10c), and Nervine, which has been described in conversations with others as a "nice grade 12 (5.4), except for all the grade 17 (5.8) bits."
There's a roof route called Flying Buttress which weighs in at 15 (5.5) that has seen many 5.10+ climbers screaming and wanting their mummy as they dangle from their sinlge piece of gear plugged up into the roof and wonder which bit is 5.5
Every first attempt on a route, especially the older ones is guaranteed to be an exciting outing.
Oh yeah, gotta love The Moon :twisted:
Adam
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jonqdoe
Jan 27, 2006, 7:51 AM
Post #27 of 151
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In reply to: In reply to: Bucket Brigade, Devil's Lake 5.6. don't know the climb spicifically but I know devil's lake and it is .1 to .2 harder than it is rated, or at least a lot of it is because all of the ratings have been passed down through the various guidebooks and were rated very old school without taking the extremely slick rock into account.
It's in the Hawk's Nest area, and it's a great climb once you get past the ridiculous first twenty feet. Aahhh Devil's Lake...
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curtis_g
Jan 27, 2006, 1:52 PM
Post #28 of 151
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Bucket Brigade, Devil's Lake 5.6. don't know the climb spicifically but I know devil's lake and it is .1 to .2 harder than it is rated, or at least a lot of it is because all of the ratings have been passed down through the various guidebooks and were rated very old school without taking the extremely slick rock into account. It's in the Hawk's Nest area, and it's a great climb once you get past the ridiculous first twenty feet. Aahhh Devil's Lake...
I'll bust out the ole guidebook and take a look for fun. Yea, Devil's Lake = my childhood and my first real climbing and my first solos starting from when I was about 12.
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rmiller
Jan 27, 2006, 2:51 PM
Post #29 of 151
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The 5.9 first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney. That thing felt harder than the 11c "crux" pitch!
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forkliftdaddy
Jan 27, 2006, 4:18 PM
Post #30 of 151
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Moore's Wall, Super Direct, 5.8
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climbingaz
Jan 27, 2006, 4:27 PM
Post #31 of 151
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The Eye at J-Tree. It's rated 5.1, but totally feels like about 5.2d+..haha
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jdouble
Jan 27, 2006, 4:30 PM
Post #32 of 151
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In reply to: The Eye at J-Tree. It's rated 5.1, but totally feels like about 5.2d+..haha
Speaking of J-tree, I heard from a little bird one time that Clean And Jerk was a HUGE sandbag. Supposedly as hard as 5.11E++.
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deleted
Deleted
Jan 28, 2006, 3:01 PM
Post #33 of 151
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I've heard that Duet Direct on Cannon was originally rated 5.7,you know"there's no one move harder than...".Then it was a nine for a while,now it's a ten,and still hard.
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warthog
Jan 28, 2006, 10:04 PM
Post #34 of 151
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Bucket Brigade, Devil's Lake 5.6. don't know the climb spicifically but I know devil's lake and it is .1 to .2 harder than it is rated, or at least a lot of it is because all of the ratings have been passed down through the various guidebooks and were rated very old school without taking the extremely slick rock into account. It's in the Hawk's Nest area, and it's a great climb once you get past the ridiculous first twenty feet. Aahhh Devil's Lake... I'll bust out the ole guidebook and take a look for fun. Yea, Devil's Lake = my childhood and my first real climbing and my first solos starting from when I was about 12. |
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microbdcamalot
Jan 29, 2006, 2:33 AM
Post #35 of 151
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NO F%cking wya cluth and cruise is a 10.
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wearyourtruth
Jan 29, 2006, 8:57 PM
Post #36 of 151
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Posts: 123
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Sign of the Cross at Hueco! 3 my @ss...
or maybe i'm just a wuss...
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crackmd
Jan 29, 2006, 9:45 PM
Post #37 of 151
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In reply to: In reply to: The Eye at J-Tree. It's rated 5.1, but totally feels like about 5.2d+..haha Speaking of J-tree, I heard from a little bird one time that Clean And Jerk was a HUGE sandbag. Supposedly as hard as 5.11E++.
Aside from a bouldery start, the moves on Clean and Jerk are all there. It is strenuous, but at 10c it is by no means a "HUGE sandbag". Perhaps if one without the ability to handjam jumps on, it will feel like a sandbag. Otherwise, it's pretty much par for the Jtree 10c course. I'm trying like hell to rehab from knee surgery so I can go and enjoy those classics in Jtree again.
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snakehuntergirl
Jan 30, 2006, 2:03 PM
Post #39 of 151
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In reply to: Nadia's Nine is a famous sandbag at Red Rock- meant to be .9, but its solid .10 at the crux
Was a tough one for me, (Moonbluff flew up it). Great route though!
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ccox
Jan 30, 2006, 2:22 PM
Post #40 of 151
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Sheep Thrills 5.11 at Sheepshead, Cochise Stronghold, Az..
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boulderman
Feb 15, 2006, 3:22 PM
Post #41 of 151
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In reply to: Sign of the Cross at Hueco! 3 my @ss... or maybe i'm just a wuss...
I admitt "Sign of the Cross" is a tough 3, but if you break it downmove for move, it's not too bad for a V3. The only hard move is the start move. If you just decide to campus it instead of trying to keep your feet on, it makes it easier. After that the moves are all easy... V3ish for sure. It's just a sharp, "jug" haul after that. Huge crimps and good feet! It's just not a climb you want to go warm up on...... especially in the cold.
I don't think most people would complain if it were bumped to V4, but then what would we have to Bitch about? That's part of what makes V grades fun! Besides, every area has to have it's "top end" and "bottom end" problem. Many boulderers will send an easy 4 before that hard 3.
"Sign of the Cross" is one V3 you can be proud of sending.... and never touch again!
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hyhuu
Feb 15, 2006, 4:25 PM
Post #42 of 151
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Silver Spot at Carderock. The climb is rated 5.10 in the local guidebook. However, Eric Horst thinks it's 5.12c and Paul Piana thinks it's 5.13a.
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unrooted
Feb 15, 2006, 4:36 PM
Post #43 of 151
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Any route put up before 1980 rated 9+.
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dlintz
Feb 15, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #44 of 151
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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In reply to: Any route put up before 1980 rated 9+.
On that note, any Eldo V0 slab put up before 1980 (which is probably every one of them).
d.
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mikej
Feb 15, 2006, 5:05 PM
Post #45 of 151
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I tried a 10 a or b at Mt Diablo, Ca about 4 years ago and the biggest hold i got to was probably about 1/5 of a pad on a completely vertical route. I struggled up 3 bolts crimping with my fingernails at parts. The rest of the route wasn't any better and was about 100 ft. It had to be at least 11d. A friend of mine got on an "8" and struggled up the whole thing. we were on a 60m rope and as i lowered him, he had to untie about 12 feet off the ground just to get down. When he finally did, he said he'd rate it a .10.
at the pbc, or pbb, they're famous for sandbagging routes to keep locals that have wired certain routes from having an unfair advantage. One popular stiff v6, slap slap in tinkerbell wall, was downgraded to a v4. A v5 in davey jones locker (meat suit) was dropped to a v2! One guide shows meat suit at a v3 anyways. At the last one, most semi popular problems were downgraded at least 1 grade. There was also a v0 near crocodile rock that they made so contrived that nobody could even get off the ground.
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seanb
Feb 15, 2006, 5:07 PM
Post #46 of 151
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In reply to: Any route put up before 1980 rated 9+.
My thoughts exactly. I now have an eye for 9+ Linville Gorge routes with Tom Howard in on the FA... they sure feel harder.... much harder!
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pipsqueekspire
Feb 15, 2006, 5:39 PM
Post #47 of 151
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Posts: 222
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I have never climbed an 11a that was as hard as a 10d. Whats up with that?
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clayman
Feb 15, 2006, 6:07 PM
Post #48 of 151
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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for me has to be this offwidth crack on Noonmark Mtn in the Daks. The guide says it's a 5.3, no f'n way! By the time I got to top I needed to be in triage for the blood loss. Damn was that fun!
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clayman
Feb 15, 2006, 6:08 PM
Post #49 of 151
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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for me has to be this offwidth crack on Noonmark Mtn in the Daks. The guide says it's a 5.3, no f'n way! By the time I got to top I needed to be in triage from the blood loss. Damn was that fun!
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ihategrigris
Feb 15, 2006, 6:54 PM
Post #50 of 151
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In reply to: East Ridge Mt. Edith Cavell 5.3 -Canadian Rockies
So true.... 4 pitchs of chossy quartzite that goes at 5.7 at least in hikeing/mountaineering bootas after scrambling for 6 hrs and 3000'.... fun.
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