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coach
Feb 12, 2002, 2:37 PM
Post #26 of 43
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I already have Adds franchise for the south area. On the issue of using the GriGri the only problem I find with it is when the climber is downclimbing. The belayer has to stay ahead of him with slack or it locks up. With a belayer that is a bit inexperienced this is a bitch! I have seen one case of a climber decking when the belayer was lowering him but luckily no injury. I still use and trust the GriGri.
Climb On
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daisuke
Feb 12, 2002, 3:09 PM
Post #27 of 43
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Registered: Aug 28, 2001
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has anyone ever seen the mechanism of the gri gri actually fail and not lock? from the way it's made I can't imagine a gri gri failing under a fall unless the device was dropped from a great height, and you'd have to be dumb to use one in those circumstances. so far every story of gri gri accidents I've heard of are the fault of the belayer and improper use
D
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iclimbtoo
Feb 12, 2002, 4:04 PM
Post #28 of 43
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Registered: Feb 10, 2002
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Yeah, I've had a perfectly new gri gri not lock on me before while on self belay. But I had back up knots in. The gri gri had never been dropped, it was threaded right, and all was good. But I had a back up knot, so it was all good. And even after that, I still use gri gri's consistently!
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leadingedge
Feb 16, 2002, 3:30 PM
Post #29 of 43
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Registered: Jan 18, 2002
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I would trust it, unless it was very old and wasn't mine.
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clymber
Feb 16, 2002, 11:51 PM
Post #30 of 43
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Registered: Feb 8, 2002
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I personally hate them and wouldnt trust them even when belaying my worse enemy. of course that just my opinon and does anyone really care about it
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gekolimit
Feb 17, 2002, 6:15 AM
Post #31 of 43
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Registered: Jan 20, 2002
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Grigri's have been tested thourghly, just like all the other gear...do you really think 'Petzl' is gonna risk putting a dangerous tool in the shops?
I doubt that.
I trust a grigri more then the rock inwhich my anchor is set. I know that rock hasn't been tested and my grigri has.
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elcapbuzz
Feb 17, 2002, 7:02 AM
Post #32 of 43
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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I have used a Gri-Gri every time I have soloed a big wall. (12 times)
I have taken HUGE falls on them (80 feet).
I TRUST them with MY life.......
But, I don't use it every time. If I am belaying somebody on a fast moving sport climb, I use an atc, vc, stitch plate, etc.
The reason is becuase you have to pinch the locking mechanism for a second to feed out slack. I've seen climbers fall in that second and fall further or almost hit the deck as a result.
Also, I've seen belayers lock off, as you would with an atc, if doing this with enough force you could actually be stopping the cam from locking against the rope.
Ammon
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krustyklimber
Feb 17, 2002, 10:23 AM
Post #33 of 43
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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I could ride around in a covered wagon, but I don't, I choose to get around in a car!!! I think the same logic applies here.
The Gri-Gri, used properly, with good protection, is a wonderful device.
Jeff
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hangover
Apr 24, 2002, 3:15 AM
Post #34 of 43
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 28
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i also have a sheriff and i love it. I have used a grigri a couple times at the gym and it didnt seem that much more helpful to be worth spending the money.
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roadtrip
Apr 24, 2002, 4:30 AM
Post #35 of 43
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 63
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Gri-gri's are sensational, and I won't even go into all the reasons(no need to give the naysayers the free knowledge). There are, however; only two ways to f#%$-up using this tool, so here are the dummy-proof tips for gri-gri virgins--
1) Yank test every time you load(to avoid misthreading).
2) When a fall occurs, let go of the gri-gri(to avoid preventing the camming device from engaging).
#2 doesn't mean, 'don't pull in the slack', in fact you can hand over hand in the slack w/ a gri faster than any other device. Anyway, I don't have time to go into all the in' and out's, so shred me if you must, but the above tips are how I teach a newbie to belay me, and hopefully the tips may be of use. Be safe.
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phreakdigital
Apr 24, 2002, 6:01 AM
Post #36 of 43
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 228
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I like to use the grigri for easy routes that i have climbed before or when the belayer is an idiot.
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ravens_wing_jim
Apr 24, 2002, 6:05 AM
Post #37 of 43
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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Well, I guess I'm old school,
but I'll just stick with an ATC thanks.
I have nothing against the GRI GRI,
but I have caught plenty-o-whippers
with an ATC, and it works just fine.
Hell, I've caught a lot of whippers
with the small end of my figure 8
for that matter.
Yeah the GRI GRI'S cool,
but to respond to another climber on here
who said he wont climb with anyone who
doesnt use one....please
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jt512
Apr 24, 2002, 6:36 PM
Post #38 of 43
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Quote:
1) Yank test every time you load(to avoid misthreading).
I agree with the above. Always yank test. Not only will this let you know if you've backthreaded the gri-gri, but it will alert you to situations in which the gri-gri might be unreliable, such as when your rope is new and slick, or thin.
Quote: 2) When a fall occurs, let go of the gri-gri(to avoid preventing the camming device from engaging).
The above, I hope, is only badly worded. First of all, the gri-gri should be backed up by locking off the rope with your brake hand, just as you would do with an ATC-style device.
Secondly, the only times you should be touching the gri-gri itself is to unlock the cam after a fall and when holding the cam open to reef slack out to a leader who is clipping. At all other times your brake hand should be on the brake side of the rope and your guide hand should be on the side of the rope going to the climber. You should teach beginners to immediately get their hand off the cam and back onto the brake side of the rope as soon as they have payed out enough slack for the clip.
Quote:
#2 doesn't mean, 'don't pull in the slack', in fact you can hand over hand in the slack w/ a gri faster than any other device.
Rarely, in sport climbing, is it correct to take in slack when your partner falls. If the leader falls on vertical to overhanging terrain, slack should only be taken in if the leader is in danger of hitting the ground or a ledge. Taking in slack results in the leader swinging into the wall harder. This is the most common cause of injury in sport climbing.
-Jay
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krillen
Apr 24, 2002, 7:11 PM
Post #39 of 43
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Registered: Jul 19, 2001
Posts: 4769
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*everything I posted has already been said"
[ This Message was edited by: krillen on 2002-04-24 13:33 ]
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offwidth
Apr 24, 2002, 7:20 PM
Post #40 of 43
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 188
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Gri-Gri's are great when you have bomber pro. When you don't have bomber pro, you might be better off with a belay device that can give a more dynamic belay.
I only use a Gri-Gri when sport climbing or top-roping. Any where else I use a Reverso.
Viva la France!
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delight
Apr 24, 2002, 7:25 PM
Post #41 of 43
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 3
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I use a gri-gri when sport climbing and feel more confident when my belayer uses it. I trust her with an atc also, but I know if I take a lead fall that I will be caught no matter what even if she isn't watching closely or something were to happen to her to keep her from belaying. (I think it is best to have all the safety built in the system that I can.) I go for stuff without having to say "watch me!"
Also when working a route and hanging it is easier to hold someone with the gri-gri.
As for the design and reliability of the gri-gri I totally trust it.
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jt512
Apr 24, 2002, 7:29 PM
Post #42 of 43
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Quote:
Let me ask you this: "how many accounts have you heard of a Gri Gri failing?" not human error, but mechanical failure.
You "hear about" lots, but every one I've heard of, I'm convinced was operator error.
However, the gri-gri will perform marginally, and needs to be backed up, under certain circumstances, such as with new, slick, or skinny ropes, low-angle falls, and light climbers. In these situations, the gri-gri sometimes only partially locks up and additional braking force needs to be applied by using the brake hand in the conventional manner.
-Jay
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hang_man
May 5, 2002, 1:17 AM
Post #43 of 43
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Registered: Apr 19, 2001
Posts: 318
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I will stick to ATC or the trusty figure 8... though they are not that smooth afterall, but, ......oopz, what am i saying
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