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dirtineye
Jul 21, 2004, 11:22 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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I've fallen oin the green Zero friend several times, not very far though. Fallen on the grey and yellow Zeros and the gold tech friend (the itty bitty gold one)
THe fact that these pieces stayed in depended on the rock quality and the placement skill, not how big hte piece was. I guess you could say that size does not matter hahaha.
I PREFER to fall on large bomber nuts or a perfect number 5 or 6 friend, given the choice.
Maybe size does matter hahaha.
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hosh
Jul 22, 2004, 12:34 AM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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Black Aliens are rated for 8 kN's I think.
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fear
Jul 22, 2004, 12:35 AM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 475
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In reply to: ......The black alien is what I really want. The strength rating is 1860 lbs, if I'm doing the math right, I think that converts to like 8.2 Kn. The Black Diamond 0.1 Micro is 7 Kn. And for me, those 2 are the easiest to place in a tricky (blind) spot.
If you're blindly placing tiny cams like that you best treat them as imaginary gear. The margin for error in placement of any of the tiny ones is very small....
Dean Potter falling 50' onto a .2 Camelot in sandstone means nothing to you or me.
-Fear
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skygodmatt
Jul 22, 2004, 1:09 AM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 19
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I had an experienced leader teach me this:
If you are at a reasonable rest before a crux and the crack is thin, place two micro-cams ( like black aliens ) close to each other, then equalize them with one sling with a half twist. This way, both micro-cams absorb the fall force equally and they are more apt to stay in and not pop out.
You can do this fairly easily with one hand.
I have fallen on 2 black aliens this way a few times, and so far it has worked.
Matthew
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jt512
Jul 22, 2004, 4:34 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: I had an experienced leader teach me this: If you are at a reasonable rest before a crux and the crack is thin, place two micro-cams ( like black aliens ) close to each other, then equalize them with one sling with a half twist. This way, both micro-cams absorb the fall force equally and they are more apt to stay in and not pop out. You can do this fairly easily with one hand.
On the other hand, if one piece fails, the other gets shock loaded, and you're f*cked. If you're at such a good rest that you can fiddle with gear, it is better to statically equalize the two pieces with a clove hitch, if at least one of the placements is good. The sliding X is better suited for equalizing two placements when both are poor.
-Jay
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boss
Jul 22, 2004, 5:25 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 235
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I've taken a 10' fall on a 0.2 microcam. It held well, but it definitely walked a bit during the fall. Not a bad idea to place some oppositional pieces in to keep this from happening.
Boss
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