|
chriss
Jan 16, 2005, 7:16 PM
Post #26 of 27
(2636 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 92
|
I usually only carry 1 or 2 undedicated lockers. Meaning not the one that always stays with my belay device. These are lockers for anchors or whatever. I don't have a problem with nonlockers used in anchors, or a clovehitch, or 2 nonlockers opposed.
I do have a problem with 2 lockers opposed and I've seen alot of this happening. Alot of the newer lockers are symetrical and the locking screws interfere with the biners laying flat against each other. This creates a great deal of stress in unintended areas on the biners when they are loaded. Take a minute to look at this. If the biners lie flat against one another with no raised areas to bend over, they should be OK. If not do not use them this way.
chris
chris
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Jan 20, 2005, 12:45 AM
Post #27 of 27
(2636 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
Comments on above...
-"I use up to or more than 6 lockers in my anchor."
-"Only use lockers when using the clove hitch because it can "flip"
- "lockers on screamers are a good idea"
Blanket statement: You can ALWAYS make yourself more safe by using lockers - heck, you could carry nothing but lockers if you want. Practicality comes into play here and with it, a decision about how many lockers you deem excessive. I'm stating my personal opinion on what I deem reasonable. Add more lockers if you wish...
6 lockers in an anchor is mega super overkill. Since you'll be pre-loading the placements the likely hood that you'll unclip any of the pieces let alone all three is extremely low. using lockers at the power point is a good idea especially if you're belaying directly off the power-point.
The clove hitch with lockers only also seems very limiting and sounds like poor tying of the hitch. I know that when you tie a clove hitch and begin to tighten it down it can "roll" up into the gate area. This is why its important to cinch each clove hitch into the proper configuration before finishing your anchor. Remember - a HITCH requires weight (in this case you tightening it) to remain intact. a KNOT remains intact regardless of load or "cinching". A typical 3 piece anchor I use all the time in vertical cracks out west is to place three pieces in a row and clove hitch the rope from my harness into all three (non lockers on the pieces) adjusting and cinching the cloves as need for equalization. Fast, simple and you've used NO extra biners other than those on the pieces. 6 lockers to none is nice. Again, YMMV.
I completely agree with vegastradguy on using lockers on some of my screamers - the "gate vibe" issue it there but more importantly, if you're using a screamer, that piece has a good chance of being mission critical and thus a locker is a good idea. Lockers aren't essential though. Sometimes if the placement is mission critical (like the bolt protecting the crux move on P1 of The Last Unicorn @ Whitehorse) I'll throw an extra draw on the bolt (or whatever) so that the gates are opposed. Bam! extra safe.
My typical setup? 1 locker for my belay device (DMM Belay master). 2 lockers for various anchor setups (I like the BD positron lockers because they're light and have a narrow nose that fits well in chain links if needed) 1 Petzl Attache - typically this carries misc gear like belay gloves of prussik loops or shoes. It's there if I need to use the munter or do some rescue stuff. So grand total = 4. Screamers might add 2 more to the load but that varies climb to climb.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
